(8) The Cultured Traveller, December 2015‒January 2016 Issue 8

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CONTENTS

HIGHLIGHTS

35 BEAUTIFUL VIENNA

Vienna is a city of grand palaces, world-class art

museums and elegant coffee houses. Alex

Benasuli visited the capital of Austria for a long

weekend, and discovered that the former

epicentre of the Austro-Hungarian Empire still

exudes stateliness, importance and respectability.

44 SUITE HONG KONG

Joe Mortimer road tested an Upper Suite on the

44 th floor of swanky Hong Kong boutique hotel,

The Upper House, which counts celebrities,

business tycoons and the odd royal among its

loyal guests.

60 THE RETURN OF SANUR

Lucy Taylor discovered that the grande dame of

Bali’s tourism scene is making a five-star

comeback.

65

DOHA’S SPRAWLING

METROPOLIS

Doha is one of the fastest growing cities on the

planet and top of the list when it comes to wealth

per capita. Gordon Hickey gives us the lowdown.

80 NANA MOUSKOURI

Kalia Michaelides interviewed world-famous

Greek singer, UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador and

former member of the European Parliament, Nana

Mouskouri, who at 81 is still touring and

performing.

84 WELSH FASHION WONDER

Designer to the stars and Welsh success story,

Julien Macdonald OBE, talks exclusively to The

Cultured Traveller about his path to international

fashion greatness, his favourite places to holiday

and what he simply cannot travel without.

December 2015/January 2016 The Cultured Traveller 07

Editor’s Letter

DECEMBER 2015/JANUARY 2016

It's hard not to be moved to

cancel your travel plans by the

recent downing of a Russian

holiday charter flight, and the

horrific bombings in two of the

world's most cosmopolitan capital

cities, Beirut and Paris.

The possibility that a bomb was

put on Metrojet Flight 9268 at

Sharm el-Sheikh on 31 st October

2015, led several countries to

immediately suspend flights to

that airport. Many airlines,

including British Airways, have

since cancelled flights to the Egyptian resort until the new year,

instantly decimating the tourist industry upon which the Egyptian

people are so heavily reliant. With a death toll of 224 people, and

almost all of them tourists, the destruction of flight 9268

immediately impacted the travel industry and people around the

world, especially those about to set off on vacation who were

shocked to their cores. Even some of my well-travelled,

self-confident friends cancelled plans to visit European cities

before Christmas, preferring instead to stay put and shop at home.

On 12 th November 2015, two suicide bombers detonated

explosives in Bourj el-Barajneh, a southern suburb of Beirut, killing

more than 40 people. The bombings were the worst terrorist

attack in Beirut since the end of the Lebanese Civil War.

On the night of 13 th November 2015, a series of coordinated

terrorist attacks occurred in Paris and its northern suburb,

Saint-Denis, killing 130 people, including 89 at the Bataclan Theatre,

where the terrorists took hostages before engaging in a stand-off

with police. 400 people were injured in addition to the dead.

A week after the Paris attacks, the Belgian capital of Brussels

was locked down for the weekend after reports emerged that the

city was facing the threat of a bomb and gun attack, similar to

that seen on the streets of the French capital. With so much

death and destruction in the world’s cities and the skies above

our most popular tourist resorts, you would be forgiven for

staying indoors, battening down the hatches, and not going

anywhere for the next few months. But this would be giving in to

the perpetrators of this heinous crimes and rewarding them for

their shocking actions. I don’t believe that we should all stay at

home and stop travelling. Be extra vigilant, yes. Be sure to heed

the warnings of your government about travelling to unsafe

territories. And as you are about to board a plane or take a train

during one of the year's most chaotic periods to get anywhere,

remember that statistics tell us that flying is still one of the safest

forms of travel, and you’re more likely to be mown down by a

reindeer that die in the sky. Seasons greetings to all our readers

and our thoughts are with the family and friends of all those who

perished in the recent attacks.

Vienna

Sanur

Nicholas Chrisostomou

Doha

10 The Cultured Traveller December 2015/January 2016

Contributors

Alex Benasuli

Resides: London Wrote: City Focus & Taste&Sip

Alex has been traveling the world his whole

life. Growing up in New York City, he

would accompany his family every summer

on visits to relatives in Spain, France and

Germany. A successful two-decade career in

finance often took him to Brazil, Mexico,

Turkey, Russia, India, Indonesia and all

over the Far East.

Today, as an avid yoga practitioner and part-time teacher, Alex

has a keen appreciation for combining luxury highbrow urban

travels with off the beaten track alternative destinations and

experiences.

Julien James Davis

Resides: London Wrote: Taste & Sip

Julien James Davis has been a freelance

travel writer for the past five years -

contributing to various publications including

the Daily Mail & Tempus Magazine -

specialising in high end, luxury brands.

His path to journalism has been an

unorthodox one, having spent fifteen years

travelling the globe as a musician, composer

& DJ across five of the six continents, which inadvertently fuelled

his hunger for exploring diverse societies and cultures along the

way. Julien lives in South London and considers South America to

be his Everest…

Lucy Taylor

Resides: Bristol Wrote: Spotlight

Lucy is an award-winning journalist with

more than a decade’s experience in print and

broadcast media. She spent 7 years in the

UAE, most recently working for Arabian

Radio Network as News Editor and

Presenter/Producer of The Travel Show, and

as a contributing reporter on City7 TV’s

UAE Weekly programme.

Lucy left Dubai in December 2014 and has spent most of 2015 on

the road, exploring new countries and cultures, freelancing for

various publications, and creating videos and podcasts for her

website, www.LucyTaylorTravels.com.

Lucy has travelled to and reported from more than 50 countries.

Joe Mortimer

Resides: Bristol Wrote: Suite Envy

Joe Mortimer is a freelance travel writer.

After spending four and a half years writing

about luxury travel and editing stories

written by others, Joe quit his comfortable

job in Dubai, sold his worldly belongings

and set off on a journey around South and

Central America. Former senior editor of

Destinations of the World News and

contributor to numerous magazines, Joe founded the travel blog

www.somewhereinthebetween.org dedicated to a life on the road,

which chronicles his experiences as a full-time nomad and

explores the challenges and opportunities of life between one place

and the next.

Gordon Hickey

Resides: Dublin Wrote: Traveller Lowdown

Dublin native Gordon may have spent the

past decade working as a TV producer, but

has spent twenty years in front of the camera

exploring the world. Fascinated with maps

and geography as a child, he went on his

first solo trip to Italy at the tender age of 14

and hasn’t looked back since.

Eating his way around the globe and

sampling local street cuisine sees him at his happiest. When he’s

not globetrotting, you’ll probably find Gordon busting his moves

at one of Ireland’s music festivals.

Farheen Allsopp

Resides: Doha Wrote: Stylish Globetrotter

Farheen is a model turned entrepreneur from

London, currently based in Qatar. After the

runways of India, Paris, Milan, London and

New York she now advises international

fashion brands on their Middle East strategy

specialising in retail, PR and events. A

globetrotter herself, Farheen is an avid

online shopper and treasure hunter. She

loves discovering emerging brands and is committed to bringing

the far-fetched to your attention. Farheen loves adventure and is a

cat-loving, free fall parachutist, mother of two boys.

EDITOR Nicholas Chrisostomou

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Kalia Michaelides

FEATURES EDITOR Claudia Avila-Batchelor

GRAPHIC DESIGNER Eleana Nicolaou

WEB DEVELOPERS Oleg Gnatyk & Dmytriy Suslov

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscribe@TheCulturedTraveller.com

TCT ON THE WEB www.TheCulturedTraveller.com

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EDITORIAL TEAM words@theculturedtraveller.com

BUDAPEST

CHRISTMAS MARKETS

HUNGARY

Situated on the Danube

River - with the Buda Hills

to the west and the Great Plain to the

east - Budapest remains a firm favourite

with European cultured travellers, not

least due to the stunning Palace

complex, world-class classical music

scene, secret caves snaking beneath the

city, beautiful buildings spanning the

banks of the river that twinkle as dusk

sets upon the city, and, when the festive

season approaches, the colourful

Christmas markets. Hungary’s capital has

been nicknamed the “Paris of the East”

for its scenic setting and magnificent

architecture, and at no time of the year

does the city look more majestic and

regal as it does in December, when the

streets and squares are laden with

hundreds of booths selling traditional

Hungarian handicrafts, leather products,

and Christmas ornaments, and bands

play on stages entertaining market goers

clutching mugs of mulled wine. Whilst

two of the best markets are the

Budapest Christmas Fair and the

Budapest Basilica Christmas Market,

don't miss world famous Hungarian

confectioner, Café Gerbeaud

(www.gerbeaud.hu) whose windows

serve as the city's most famous advent

calendar through 'til Christmas Day.

December 2015

www.budapestchristmas.com

ELECTRIC DAISY

CARNIVAL

BRAZIL

A dusk till dawn, rain or

shine, exhilarating Sao

Paulo event with a twist, for dance and

music worshipers. Held in Autódromo

de Interlagos, this electronic dance

music festival features genres including

EDM, house, drum n bass, techno,

dance-punk, hardstyle and dubstep, and

is packed with not only frenetic music

but arty installations, technology,

nature and much more. An adult

playground is dotted with fairground

ride favorites, from contraptions that

flash, spin and whirl to a traditional

Ferris wheel. Exaggerated costumes

designed especially for EDC, dancing

troupes, stilt walkers, aerialists, circus

performers and other imaginative

characters complete the giant funky

extravaganza. This year's line-up

includes Tiësto, Steve Aoki and top

Brazilian producer duo, Tropkillaz,

comprising DJ Zegon and Laudz.

4 - 5 December 2015

www.electricdaisycarnival.com

FÊTE DES LUMIÈRES

FRANCE

Each year, 3 to 4 million

people flock to Lyon to be

bedazzled by the phantasmagoric

display of street and architectural

illuminations that transform the city to a

sparkling wonderland. Fête des

Lumières, or the Festival of Lights,

sprang from an age-old tradition dated

back to 1643 to today’s unique urban

event of extravagant and professionally

run light performances. The four-night

programme delivers a different theme

each night, complete with video, music

and sound effects to compliment the

dynamic imagery seen throughout the

city, its rivers and its parks. Designers

hailing from all corners of the planet

participate with imaginative installations,

whilst all Lyonnais get involved in their

own way by burning candles on their

windowsills and balconies, further

enhancing the glittering spectacle.

5 - 8 December 2015

www.fetedeslumieres.lyon.fr

MEVLÂNA FESTIVAL

TURKEY

Dubbed the world's largest

event deThis authentic

sema (ceremony) attracts more than

100,000 visitors to the Anatolian city of

Konya for the Whirling Dervishes

Festival, which commemorates the

death of 13 th century Sufi poet,

Mevlâna Celaleddin-i Rumi, one of the

world’s great mystic philosophers. His

work in poetry and religious writings

are among the most cherished in Islam

and beyond. Known as Rumi in the

west, he is a best-selling poet in the US,

with avid fans that include Madonna.

The United Nations declared 2007 The

Year of Rumi and world-wide

celebrations were held in his honour.


Throughout the festival, whirling

dervishes, dressed in their white robes

with voluminous skirts, dance as if they

are in trance, under the observance of a

seyh (master). Their performances can

best be described as utterly

mesmerizing and mystifying. The

highlight of the festival is on the last

night, when the entranced dervishes

spin to commemorate Mevlâna’s

wedding night. Konya - Turkey's

seventh largest city - is an hour’s flight

from Istanbul.

10 - 17 December 2015

BURNING THE CLOCKS

UK

A Brighton tradition for

almost two decades,

Burning the Clocks is a unique

community event that brings together

the whole seaside city to mark the

shortest day, the Winter Solstice.

JUNKANOO PARADE

BAHAMAS

The high point of the

season for all Bahamians, is

when Nassau's main artery, Bay Street,

is transformed into a sea of sight and

sound that delights, amazes and

entertains all who experience Junkanoo

Parade. Tracing its roots to the music,

dance and spectacle of West Africa,

Junkanoo is one of the oldest surviving

street festivals in the Caribbean, dating

back to the 17 th century. Legend has it

that slaves of old decorated themselves

using whatever scrap materials were

available - the easiest to lay their hands

on being paper and feathers - which

were sewn onto their clothes, whilst

flour paste was used to paint their

faces. Nowadays Junkanoo is a

wonderful celebration of life and

freedom and the major cultural festival

of the Bahamas. But you'll need

stamina to be part of Junkanoo,

because each year it is celebrated in

the early hours of the morning on

12 14 The Cultured Traveller December 2015/January 2016

Created in 1994 by the award-winning

community arts charity, Same Sky, as a

way to celebrate the holiday spirit

regardless of people's religious beliefs,

in recent years it has adopted a totally

different purpose as a peaceful yet

dramatic rebellion against the modern

day excess of Christmastime

commercialism. Local people make their

own beautiful paper and willow star

lanterns, and after a procession through

the city, they pass them into a blazing

bonfire on Brighton beach, as a token of

the year’s end. A GBP22 package

contains all the materials needed to

make two star lanterns, and includes

four wrist bands allowing visitors to join

the parade and gain entrance to a

special viewing area on Madeira Drive

to watch the grand finale fire show.

21 December 2015

www.facebook.com/burningtheclocks

Boxing Day, 26 December, and the

main event - the biggest parade - is on

New Year’s Day!

26 December 2015 + 1 January 2016

www.bahamas.co.uk

HOGMANY

SCOTLAND

Repeatedly name-checked

as one of the top 100 things

to do before you die, three days of

spectacular events, big bands and

electrified crowds from every corner of

the globe come together in Edinburgh

every year for the biggest New Year's

Eve celebrations on the planet. See

Shetland Vikings bearing fire lit torches,

hear beautiful choral singing in St Giles'

Cathedral, enjoy birling to traditional

Scottish music in the Old Town, and

watch top stars and incredible fireworks

from Princes Street Gardens. Last year

150,000 revelers from over 70

countries joined hands for the world’s

biggest rendition of Auld Lang Syne.

This year's packed programme includes

a new street party experience featuring

additional entertainment, a new stage

and increased arena space for crowds

to ‘bring in the bells’. The Scottish sure

know how to party!

29 - 31 December 2015

www.edinburghshogmanay.com

HARBIN ICE FESTIVAL

CHINA

With one of the most

bitterly cold winters of all

Chinese cities, Harbin is known as the

Ice City for its well-known winter

tourism and recreations, and its world

famous ice and snow festival - the

largest of its kind on the planet. It

takes 15,000 ice sculptors, artisans

and workers, working painstakingly for

16 days, cutting 120,000 cubic metres

of ice blocks from Songhua River’s

frozen surface, to create the

breathtaking illuminated iced

sculptures and statues, plus full size

buildings and figures, dotted around

the city. However, the main highlights

are the two focal exhibition areas,

namely Sun Island and Ice & Snow

World. Ice slides and festival food and

drinks can be found in abundance in

several parks and major avenues in the

city, as well as winter activities such as

Yabuli Alpine Skiing, snowmobile

driving, winter-swimming in the

Songhua River, and the traditional

ice-lantern exhibition in Zhaolin

Garden.

5 January - 25 February 2016

www.icefestivalharbin.com

PROTOTYPE

USA

Since its inception 4 years

ago, PROTOTYPE has

established itself as an important

presenter of innovative new operas,

experimental theatre and musical works

in New York. Since launching in 2013,

PROTOYYPE has produced and

presented 91 performances, shared the

works of more than 275 local, national,

and international artists, exposed

visionary work to more that than 9,000

people, and filled 19 stages across

multiple boroughs of New York City.

The much celebrated festival will return

in 2016 with the world premiere of

“Angel’s Bone” - an opera about angels

and human trafficking, by Du Yun with a

libretto by Royce Vavrek - and will also

feature the New York premiere of

David. T. Little’s opera “Dog Days”; the

American premiere of “The Last Hotel,”

an opera by DonnachaDennehy that was

written and directed by Enda Walsh; and

“The Good Swimmer,” a musical-theatre

work set during the Vietnam War.

6 - 17 January 2016

www.prototypefestival.org

CARTAGENA INTERNATIONAL MUSIC FESTIVAL

COLOMBIA

For eight days each

January, the historic

Colombian walled city of Cartagena, is

completely filled with music during the

Festival Internacional de Music. Under

the artistic direction of Charles

Wadsworth, renowned pianist and

creator of chamber music events

worldwide, festival concerts take place in

historic venues throughout the city,

including the Teatro Heredia and the

beautiful chapels of the Hotels Santa

Clara, Santa Teresa, Iglesia de Santo

Toribio and the Plaza San Pedro Claver.

Cartagena opens some of its most

charming colonial spaces - indoors and

out - to the public for performances by

classical musicians from around the

world. For 2016 the festival program will

be divided into three main matrices, with

the audience hearing music composed in

Europe, music from different eras made

in the New World, and works composed

in Europe with influences from

ATI-ATIHAN

PHILIPPINES

Whilst Filipinos are known

worldwide for their

gracious hospitality, this feast festival

held annually in January, in honor of the

Santo Niño (Infant Jesus), allows us a

glimpse of their wild, colourful and

playful side, a facet of these devout and

thoughtful people rarely seen.

Ati-Atihan is nine days of constant

movement, drumming and feasting - a

non-stop riot of exhibitionism, costume,

music and dance. Soot-black painted

faces, feather headdresses and animal

bones create a show-stopping visual

treat, and after days of relentless

drumming and festivities it's nigh on

impossible for even the most reluctant

traveller not to get covered in soot and

join the romping, all night closing

masquerade ball.

17 - 26 January 2016

www.kaliboatiatihan.ph

unpublished languages of the New

World. As well as countless live

performances, the festival runs master

classes for young artists. This year's

performers include the Orpheus Chamber

Orchestra and the Youth Philharmonic

Chamber Orchestra, a grouping of the

Philharmonic Orchestra of Bogotá.

6 - 14 January 2016

www.cartagenamusicfestival.com

KEY WEST FOOD &

WINE FESTIVAL

USA

For the foodies and wine

lovers amongst you, this

American festival is as good as it gets.

Recognised by the Travel Chanel as one

of best Food & Wine Festivals in America,

it attracts thousands of epicureans to

delight on creative cuisine and a wide

range of wines. A 5-day festival bursting

with flavours, it hosts over 40 unique and

diverse events including waterfront

tastings, winemaker/chef collaborations,

and local funky happenings that present

an authentic taste of Key West, Florida.

Festival favourites include the Key West

Kitchen Tour which takes you hopping to

homes and restaurants of locals to sample

a different dish and wine at each location,

and The French Masquerade Party, a

sophisticated dance event, where guests

are encouraged to dress up in full Marie

Antoinette style, don their best wigs, sip

champagne and dance the night away.

27 - 31 January 2016

www.keywestfoodandwinefestival.com

Rest Your Head

Courchevel, Bath, Macao, Weligama, Valetta, Phuket, Jabal Akhdar

Paro, Amsterdam, Bogotá, London, Great Barrier Reef

14 16

COURCHEVEL

SIX SENSES RESIDENCES COURCHEVEL

Located in the heart of the world-famous ski resort, 100km from the

airport of Chambéry and Lyon-Saint Exupéry and accessible via TGV

and Eurostar (30-minute drive away in the town of Moutiers), the

arrival of Six Senses Residences Courchevel this month marks the

opening of the first residential spa development in Courchevel

(formerly 1850). Courchevel is at one end of the world's largest

lift-linked ski area - the Trois Vallées - which has 600km of pistes and

over 170 lifts. Because of the north-facing aspect of many of

Courchevel's local slopes, the snow here is usually some of the best in

the area, with terrain to suit everyone from beginner to expert. Indeed,

many visitors never feel the need to leave the Courchevel valley,

despite having the rest of the Trois Vallées at the tips of their skis.

Six Senses Residences Courchevel features 53 beautifully

appointed apartments, a Six Senses Spa, an exclusive private

ski-in-ski-out concierge service, plus all of the usual upscale services

that guests of Six Senses have come to expect. All apartment interiors

have been designed by Alain Foeillet, blending contemporary styles

with traditional mountain influences - including timber walls, robust

beams and stone and clay flooring - that celebrate the alpine

aesthetic, complemented by custom-made furniture and local art. For

the ultimate ski residences, 10 spacious penthouses cover 100m 2

offering panoramic mountain views, up to five exquisitely appointed

bedrooms, specially configured wine cellars and triple aspect

balconies overlooking the slopes.

Six Senses Spa Courchevel will surely be the perfect place to ease

tired muscles after an exhilarating day on the slopes, offering signature

massages, restorative therapies, facials and body treatments in five

deluxe treatment rooms. An indoor swimming pool, saunas, steam room,

relaxation lounge, gym, studio and wellness classes, manicure and

pedicure stations, and a juice bar will complete the five-star ski & spa

experience.

www.sixsenses.com

THE ST. REGIS MACAO

An hour-long ferry ride separates Hong Kong from Macao, China’s tropical destination

on the country’s southeastern coast. It is a humid furnace from late April through early

October, while temperatures can fall into the 50s in midwinter. To many who have

visited, Macau is a frenetic, crazy and gambling-driven sensory overload, flooded with

the familiar trappings of money and modernity, few if any of which are of interest, or

visually attractive, to a cultured traveller. This former Portuguese colony continuously

parades its wild side, not least in its growing number of nearly 40 massive casinos.

But the brashness eclipses a more serene, little known sophisticated side to the

region that’s defined by lush landscapes, art galleries, avant-garde design shops and

low-key bars. This is where the new St Regis Macao comes in, opening on 17

December 2015, to cater to a new generation of both leisure and corporate travelers

seeking a different experience.

Located along the vibrant Cotai Strip which offers easy access to over 600 retail

outlets (perfect if shopping’s your thing), hundreds of dining options and a diverse

range of world-class entertainment, The St. Regis Macao is positioned to become a

veritable haven from the madness outside and hence, in time, most likely the most

coveted address in this mega-popular gaming destination.

Aspiring to set a new standard for luxury and bespoke service in Macau, The St.

Regis Macao features 400 exquisitely styled and lavishly appointed guest rooms and

suites (25% being suites), reflecting traditional Chinese and Portuguese elements,

ranging from 53m² to 477m², providing discerning travelers with a luxurious respite

from the hectic urban brew. The hotel’s strategic location and distinctive layout affords

guests sweeping views of the Cotai Strip, with almost all rooms boasting commanding

vistas of the bustling, brightly lit metropolis, as well as 55-inch LED TVs, Remède

bathroom products and Simmons beds. The St. Regis Macao has four Presidential

Suites. All rooms and suites benefit from the signature St. Regis Butler Service, a first

for any hotel in Macao. This 24-hour service customises each guest’s stay to their

specific needs, tastes and preferences, and when it comes to butlers, St. Regis really

knows what it’s doing!

www.stregis.com

MACAO

18 22The Cultured Traveller December 2015/January 2016

LE MÉRIDIEN PARO, RIVERFRONT

PARO

Nestled in a beautiful valley and surrounded by the dramatic Eastern Himalayas, Paro is one of the most attractive cities in the Kingdom of

Bhutan. Situated on the edge of the Chu River, and providing stunning views of Paro Valley, Le Méridien Paro, Riverfront offers panoramic

views of the Eastern Himalayas and is an ideal gateway for discovering the region’s charms, unique cultural heritage, and spectacular

scenery. The intimate hotel features 59 contemporary guestrooms and suites, all designed with a classic Bhutanese feel. Paro International

Airport is little more than 3km from the hotel, and Bhutan’s capital, Thimphu, is less than an hour’s drive away.

Paro is home to numerous sacred fortresses and monasteries. Set on the edge of a steep cliff, the 17 th century Paro Taktsang (Tiger’s

Nest) is one of Bhutan’s most famous attractions and is just 30 minutes away by car. Kyichu Lhakhang is one of the nation’s oldest and most

beautiful monasteries, dating back to the 7 th century. Overlooking Paro Valley and filled with rich history, the large Buddhist monastery and

fortress Rinpung Dzong is another top attraction. Housed in a former watchtower, the artefacts at the National Museum of Bhutan are equally

stimulating. For open-air adventurers, Western Bhutan’s striking forests and the Himalayas can be appreciated on an exhilarating trek.

Bhutan’s unique archery matches are considered the kingdom’s national sport, and traditional Bhutanese musical performances are also well

worth seeing. More ancient Bhutanese culture can be found during the popular annual Paro Tsechu festival held every March or April. During

this colourful multiday event, locals can be seen dressed in native attire, visitors can spin a prayer wheel for wisdom and good karma, or one

can take pleasure in watching unique, religious dance performances.

After a stimulating day of touring and sightseeing, reward yourself with a Bhutanese hot stone bath in the hotel’s signature Explore Spa, and

feast on the region’s flavourful cuisine, which includes jasha maru made with minced chicken and tomatoes, ema datshi made with spicy

cheese and chilli peppers, momos (dumplings), nutty flavoured red rice, and butter tea served with crunchy fried rice.

www.lemeridien.com

20

CAPE WELIGAMA

WELIGAMA

The charming island nation of Sri Lanka is a place of multiple experiences, sights, sounds, tastes and colours. No sooner than you think

you've discovered the best food or the best place to rest your head, the inventive country-folk with their internationally-travelled influences

conjure up yet better hotels and more creative restaurants. In Sri Lanka you can spend a day walking through spectacular hills, admiring tea

plantations and quaint villages, then find yourself on a safari trip looking for leopards and elephants. You can white water raft in the rainforest,

then check out for a few days on a picturesque beach, bask in glorious sunshine or take advantage of world-class surfing conditions. Sri

Lanka is a year-round destination. Even in the rainy season, downpours are short and the skies clear quickly after the rain stops. From the

bustling metropolis of Colombo to the lush green landscape of the hill country, you can be revelling in the authentic hustle and bustle of a

thriving local city one minute, and be transported to the lap of luxury the next.

Situated on the south coast of the country and positioned on a headland with views out across the water and beaches in every direction, few

places in Sri Lanka do luxury quite as spectacularly well as Cape Weligama. The resort is about 30 minutes drive from the UNESCO World

Heritage site of Galle Fort, which is close enough for sightseeing but far enough away to feel like a sanctuary. Set out in the style of a village,

much lauded Thai architect, Lek Bunnag, has designed the villas in a contemporary mod-Asian style which works beautifully. Every villa is

attended by a butler and sits within a flower-scented garden, no more than a few steps from a cooling pool. And because a stay at Cape

Weligama is all about unadulterated luxury, relaxation and comfort, the hotel is all-inclusive, so guests can freely order drinks and snacks without

fearing the bill at the end of their stay. Even laundry is included.

For cultured travellers with a blow-out budget, the two-storey 307m² Cape Weligama Residence has two bedrooms that both boast sweeping

Indian Ocean views, and a private infinity pool on the roof terrace. Even at USD1,500 per night (for the Cape Weligama Residence) during peak

season, this is cheap by comparison to the Maldives, where you’d pay far more for even half the amount of luxury floor space.

www.capeweligama.com

THE PHOENICIA, MALTA

CampbellGray Hotels - famous for Carlisle Bay in Antigua, and Le Gray, arguably Beirut's top hotel and The Cultured

Traveller's favoured abode in the Lebanese capital - has entered into a business partnership with the Audeh family, sole

owners and developers of the new Le Gray Amman Hotel and Residences, to develop Le Gray Amman, The Phoenicia

Malta, and The Machrie Hotel and Golf Links on the Hebridean island of Islay.

Built in 1939 under British rule, the Phoenicia was Malta’s first luxury hotel, giving it a wealth of history and a unique

charm, standing proudly at City Gate just outside the main entrance to Valletta. Its imposing interior bears a gentle Art Deco

influence, particularly in the main lounge bar, with many of the iconic hotel's 136 bedrooms and suites benefitting from truly

majestic views of Marsamxett Harbour, Floriana parish church, the 7 acres of beautiful hotel gardens, the main entrance to

Valletta (with its charming bus station which is not in fact particularly unsightly) and the city's ancient fortifications.

Since the Phoenicia’s architectural beauty is considered to be one of the sights of the island, the six-month EUR15 million

revamp of this much-loved hospitality grande dame in the old-town heart of Malta, will be sympathetic to the hotel’s heritage.

The redesign scheme - which is already well underway - has been carefully considered by Peter Young Design and Fox

Linton Associates, founded in the Seventies by British doyenne, Mary Fox Linton. Fox Linton Associates works across a

broad spectrum of commissions, from high-end private homes to established hotel brands such as the Dorchester Collection

and Raffles. Its trademark is originality, faultless detailing and intelligent design, which is evident in both Le Gray and Carlisle

Bay, so expect the reimagined interior of the refurbished Phoenicia to be beautifully detailed yet comfortable and functional.

Charismatic hotelier, Gordon Campbell Gray, has said “I have always wanted to restore a grand hotel and opportunities

such as this happen rarely. The philosophy behind the renovation of The Phoenicia is very much about restoring it to its

original grandeur while at the same time making it feel like now and therefore more relevant to the current international

traveller. What excites me most though is the chance to work with the super-professional staff at The Phoenicia who, over

the years, have contributed to the success and popularity of the hotel.”

The revitalisation of the Phoenicia includes the complete refurbishment and upgrading of all bedrooms and bathrooms,

the creation of new rooftop Sky Suites, the addition of a new outdoor infinity pool with sweeping views of the harbour, a

complete re-landscaping of the stunning grounds and terraces, the painstaking restoration of the Phoenicia’s classic façade

and the refurbishment of the Phoenicia Grand Ballroom. The Phoenicia Malta will reopen in April 2016.

www.campbellgrayhotels.com

VALLETTA


24

TRISARA

PHUKET

Stepping into the Trisara is like gliding into your own private paradise. The resort’s name means “The Garden in the Third Heaven,” and

the verdant rainforest that embraces the lux villas certainly affirms the Eden-esque moniker.

Secluded and romantic, the resort’s ergonomic design compliments the 48 secreted villas and 20 private residencies - all with private

pools - that can also be hired along with their own staff and world-class chefs. A stunning boathouse, constructed in robust teak wood,

presides over uncompromising views across the Andaman Sea, as do all of the villas and suites across the complex. The architecture has

been thoughtfully designed to offer romantic getaways or for those seeking privacy. Kate Moss is rumoured to have a home here.

Now celebrating their decade, Trisara has built up a loyal clientele whose custom they keep by providing a range of generic and bespoke

services that leave no attention to detail unchartered. One off culinary experiences, personalised health breaks, contemporary art evenings

and more are some of the pursuits on offer for visitors. The cuisine is one of the highlights of the property, with several restaurants offering

traditional Thai fare, international plates and one of the best wine collections in the country. Private dining in each of the residential decks is

also de rigueur. A recent addition has been the Trisara Seafood Restaurant, supplying fresh Andaman and Mediterranean fish. On the

private beach, a newly built bar offers both established and unique house cocktails, perfect companions for the uninterrupted sunsets.

Trisara is consistently lauded in high profile, glossy Asian media, and in the last year it has also reinvented itself as a premium

destination for fitness and well-being. A range of sporting activities including a private golf course and yachting are also combined with

personal training facilities, holistic treatments and an organic spa, mixing traditional Thai practices and Western therapies.

The flow and contemporary aesthetic of Trisara is what makes this a delightfully deluxe resort and a consistent winner of international

travel awards. Given the fierce competition in Phuket, this untainted piece of paradise is a real gem to be revered.

www.trisara.com

ANANTARA AL JABAL AL AKHDAR RESORT

JABAL AKHDAR

Thai-based hotel group, Anantara, is synonymous with connecting modern travellers to genuine places through personal experiences, and the

luxury hospitality brand is edging closer to opening its first resort in the Sultanate of Oman. Billed by the international travel press as one of the

most exciting hotels to open in 2016, Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort will be perched almost 3,000 metres above sea level, on the curving

rim of a great canyon, in the rocky contours of the vast Saiq Plateau on Oman’s fabled Green Mountain, making it the highest five star resort in

the Middle East and the second highest in the world. It’s also a location visited by Princess Diana and HRH Prince Charles in November 1986.

Having helicoptered in, most of his time was spent painting the magnificent scenery in watercolours, while Diana read her book.

The remote mountain setting is a manageable two-hour drive from Muscat International Airport, passing date plantations, wadis and historical

forts. The resort will offer an exhilarating escape for culture and history enthusiasts, with the ancient city of Nizwa only a 30-minute drive away.

Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar will boast 82 luxurious rooms plus 33 high-end villas, each with their own private swimming pool and all

furnished in rich and authentic traditional Omani style, state-of-the-art interactive IPTV’s - including video on demand and complimentary

Wi-Fi throughout the resort – that will ensure guests have every convenience befitting of a luxury traveller whilst enjoying their mountain

stay experience. The resort’s top accommodation will be its three-bedroom Royal Mountain Villa.

Guests will have six on-site dining options to choose from, including Al Qalaa Arabian grill which will be housed in a castle tower,

inspired by the many ancient citadels dotted around Oman, and Bella Vista - adjacent to the resort’s infinity pool overlooking a vast

mountain canyon - which will offer contemporary Italian cuisine. Additional resort facilities will include a deluxe Anantara Spa with five

treatment rooms, two luxury couple suites with outdoor private relaxation areas, indoor swimming pool and a hammam.

www.anantara.com


THE PIG

BATH

The Pig near Bath is the younger sibling of the Pig in New Forest, originally opened in 2011 as a country house with attention to culinary

detail and combining a touch of luxury with homely charms. The initial flurry of awards and media accolades allowed the owners the freedom

to expand to other parts of the quintessential English countryside.

The Pig near Bath was the third in the group, having been inaugurated in spring 2014. 2016 will see the launch of the fifth of their litter in

Devon. The second and fourth Pigs are located in Hampshire and Dorset respectively. Shabby chic comfort in the heart of the British

countryside has been the recipe for success in this boutique group of highbrow country hotels. Renovated stately homes combine

aesthetically with organic, seasonal local produce; renowned chef Mark Hix is a fan of their kitchens.

A creation of Robin Hutson, widely known for his development of the Hotel du Vin group, the porcine chain has garnered particular love

from the music industry and boho guests who frequent their Somerset branch. Glastonbury festival artists and revelers, who have high-rider

expectations, flock to the grade two listed building to be spoilt and recharge their batteries, in between catching live acts or going on

countryside yomps. Hutson’s previous experience of running Babington House clearly shines through: the smallest of details are provided

for demanding visitors, including colourful Hunter Wellingtons and a chauffer service to and from local events.

Large fires, chunky distressed wood, and exposed brickwork detail make the Pig a cosy yet plush hotel option. Coupled with exceptional

food on offer and a stunning location, this is an idyllic country retreat and well deserving of the media support they have enjoyed. The organic

credentials are further enhanced with an onsite allotment and livestock, reared to provide gastro feasts for the dining tables of guests.

Sagacious London townies and international visitors continue to flock to the 29-room hotel, comfortable in the knowledge that service and

relaxation will be provided with minimal fuss.

www.thepighotel.com


W AMSTERDAM

Located steps away from the Royal Palace and just behind Dam Square - Amsterdam’s bustling

Times Square equivalent - the new W Amsterdam has, for the first time, shifted the focus of

hotel guests and visitors from the city’s canals to the Dutch capital’s rooftops and skyline, with

the opening of a design-led property - brimming with upbeat New York energy - crowned by a

360-degree rooftop bar and Amsterdam’s first rooftop pool, 22-metres long and heated in the

winter months. It’s a wonder that no one in the water-obsessed capital had thought of a rooftop

pool before - such is the passion of the Dutch people for all things aqua-orientated.

Located in the epicentre of Amsterdam’s vibrant social scene, the 238-room hotel spans two

iconic buildings, one of which used to house the city’s former telephone exchange and the

other previously home to KAS Bank, now known as Exchange and Bank respectively, with 172

five-star modern luxe-styled rooms in the former and 66 in the latter. Exchange is fully

operational while Bank’s rooms will open in spring 2016. Once in full flight, the hotel will have a

total of 21 suites, three WOW suites and two lavish Extreme WOW suites - the brand’s take on

a presidential suite. Boasting an impressive 183m² of innovative design, an open plan bathroom

complete with a hot tub, walk-in wardrobe and large round bed with extraordinary views of the

Royal Palace, the Extreme WOW Suite is sure to become the city’s most sought after and

glamorous crash pad. No doubt many a pop diva’s post show bash will be held here.

W Amsterdam was designed by Office Winhov & Baranowitz + Kronenberg Architecture, who

collaborated with local designers to refresh the historic buildings with contemporary detailing

inspired by their storied past, and features the hospitality industry’s first keyless entry system,

enabling guests to use their smartphone or wearable device as a room key.

Guests arrive in style at the rooftop W Lounge - the brand’s re-interpretation of the traditional

hotel lobby - on the sixth floor of Exchange. With four outdoor terraces and floor-to-ceiling

windows, guests enjoy spectacular 360-degree views over canal houses, heritage sites and the

dome of the Royal Palace while checking-in. Also contained within the glass-enclosed box on

the rooftop of Exchange, Mr Porter blends qualities of a modern steakhouse with the

sophisticated ambiance of a chic, high-energy lounge.

Across the street in Bank, The Duchess opened in June 2015 to rave reviews, combining an

eclectic taste of London and Viennese grandeur. The building also houses a state-of-the-art

fitness centre, a spa located amid the original bank vaults, and XBANK, a 700m² exhibition

gallery and immersive creative incubator concept space that connects local design, fashion and

music talents - all of which will be unveiled in Spring 2016 (together with the remaining 66 guest

rooms). For anyone visiting the funky Dutch capital interested in fashion, design, art, clubbing

and music, W Amsterdam is undoubtedly the new place to be.

www.wamsterdam.com

AMSTERDAM

BOGOTÁ

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL

CASA MEDINA BOGOTÁ

Originally built in 1946, Medellín born and

Paris educated architect Santiago Medina

Mejia incorporated pieces of demolished

colonial convents (stone columns,

hand-carved doors), reassembled reclaimed

floors, polished wood paneling and wrought

ironwork into his design of Casa Medina, to

create an exclusive enclave of apartments -

and a beloved local landmark - in a

fashionable area of the city. The historic

building went through several alterations

before being declared a national monument

by the country’s Ministry of Culture in 1984

and turned into Hotel Casa Medina, which

for more than 25 years, was the preferred

choice amongst luxury travellers, rock stars,

captains of industry and heads of state

visiting the city. Hotel Casa Medina was

once the playground of the capital’s power

players and jet-setters - a beautifully

accented hotel where hushed deals were

brokered behind its hand-carved wooden

doors - so it came as little surprise that Four

Seasons snapped it up to debut the premium

hotel brand in Colombia. With two more

hotels due to open in the next year (including

a second property in Bogotá), Four Seasons

is betting big on Colombia and it’s not hard

to see why. Tourism to the South American

country has been steadily on the rise in the

past few years as its international reputation

has gradually improved. More than four

million travellers visited Colombia in 2014 -

up more than 10% on 2013 - and half of

them stopped off in Bogotá - no doubt drawn

by its museums, architecture, thriving food

scene and colourful street art.

The recent restoration of the building by

architect Milena Vargas, has seen Casa

Medina’s original French and Spanish

architectural details skillfully preserved, while

being enhanced by contemporary features

including residential-style furnishings and a

collection of traditional and current artwork

selected by designer Lauren Rottet. Plus, of

course, the addition of a myriad of

conveniences for the modern day traveller,

becoming of a luxury Four Seasons hotel.

No two of the new hotel’s 62 rooms and

suites are alike. Most are reached via the

original wooden staircase, which curves

sensually past bright stained glass windows

depicting songbirds, a favourite motif of

Majia, the original architect. The Cultured

Traveller recommends a junior suite, with its

hand-carved wooden furniture, a leather

sofa and armchair, trunk-style coffee table,

bright refined décor, and a wood-burning

open fireplace at its centre.

www.fourseasons.com


LONDON

THE GORING

Opened by Otto Richard Goring in 1910

(and still in the family to this day), he

created the last authentic Edwardian hotel

in Great Britain when The Goring was

unveiled just two months before the death

of Edward VII. It’s a very well designed

hotel, with every thought given for the

comfort of the guests - being the first hotel

in the country to introduce en-suite

bathrooms to every room.

Literally across the road from

Buckingham Palace, The Goring is where

the Middleton family and the Duchess of

Cambridge stayed the night before the

Royal Wedding, under the leadership of the

fourth generation of the family to take

charge of the five-star, 71-bedroom hotel,

Jeremy Goring. Father and son are a

delightful double act and keeping the hotel

in the family is why The Goring has

maintained its reputation for so long as a

warm, friendly and - above all else - fun

and characterful place to stay. The hotel

also has the great advantage of a huge

private garden, surrounded by flower

borders and shrubbery, with a central lawn

on which croquet is played in the summer

months.

To mark its 100 th anniversary, the hotel

began a programme of stylish redecoration

that has just finished with the unveiling of its

ravishing new Front Hall, clad with

hand-painted wallpaper of exotic animals in

a romantic English landscape. Changes

have also included the redesign of the

dining room by David Linley and of the

lounge, bar and terrace by Tim Gosling. The

bedrooms have also gradually been

refurbished by Gosling, Nina Campbell and

Russell Sage. Future plans include the

creation of a two-bedroom Centenary Suite

from six bedrooms on the fifth floor.

Designed by Sage and using Gainsborough

silks, with a grand piano and steps that lead

down into an enormous bath, the suite is

expected to be one of the most sumptuous

in London. A further 20 bedrooms are to be

refurbished, and a gym and pool are also

planned.

For a rather special culinary experience,

have dinner at The Dining Room, which was

awarded its first Michelin star just a few

months ago in September 2015. Executive

chef, Shay Cooper, uses only the best

seasonal British produce in his imaginative

cooking, and his elegant dishes

complement the hotel perfectly. Bollinger

afternoon tea - served every afternoon in

the traditional five-star surroundings of the

Bar & Lounge - is also a must.

www.thegoring.com

32

GREAT BARRIER REEF

LIZARD ISLAND

Located 240km north of Cairns and 27km off the coast of tropical North Queensland, Lizard Island is a national park covering

more than 1,000 hectares amid the natural beauty of the Great Barrier Reef, and is only accessible by private charter from

Cairns Airport. Thus this unique and truly beautiful location is completely secluded from the rest of the world, and the resort is

reserved for the fortunate few to experience an unforgettable holiday like no other.

It's but a short drive from the gravel airstrip to the resort, which recently reopened after an extensive 12-month USD50

million renovation. Guests check-in while reclining on cushioned benches, sipping champagne and snacking on fruit,

chocolate dipping sauce, and smoked salmon rolls. This deluxe welcome sets the tone for the standard of vacation which lies

ahead for lucky guests, who enjoy secluded picnics and sunset culinary feasts on private beaches, twilight snorkeling, dusk

cruises, night dives and five star cuisine. Six motorised dinghies are provided for guests to explore the island's 24 virtually

untouched white sand beaches - with gourmet picnic hampers to take with you considerately included in your room rate.

The new Essential Day Spa is a luxurious and serene retreat, offering a menu of pampering spa and indulgent treatments,

complemented by organic products by high-end French brand La Biosthetique, plus a new dedicated manicure and pedicure

room.

Guests slumber in 40 elegant rooms and suites which all provide breathtaking vistas of the Australian seascape. Using the

stunning views from each room as the palate for the redesign, OPV Architects and Hecker Guthrie have created fresh, new

interiors which naturally integrate with the surrounding environment, combining neutral tones with highlights of colours from

the surrounding reef, including coral, blue and gold. The resort’s best accommodation is The Villa: 154m² of deluxe

accommodation secluded from the rest of the property, and afforded the ultimate privacy atop a ridge, that boasts two

bedrooms en-suite, a spacious lounge (with butler’s kitchen) opening onto an expansive deck overlooking the Coral Sea, and

a private 8-metre plunge pool.

With everything a guest might need on the island provided, Lizard Island Resort is an ideal destination for highflying execs

and corporate kings to detach and unplug. Indeed there is no mobile phone signal on the island (but there is Wi-Fi) and

guests are restricted to one suitcase and one small item of carry-on on the charter flight from Cairns - totalling no more than

32kg each - so dinner suits and Manolos should most definitely be left at home!

www.lizardisland.com.au

VIENNA

AUSTRIA’S MAJESTIC, REFINED & BEAUTIFUL CAPITAL

WRITTEN BY ALEX BENASULI

Acity

A

of grand palaces, world-class art museums and

elegant coffee houses awaits you in Vienna. Capital

of Austria and former epicentre of the

Austro-Hungarian Empire, the city exudes

stateliness, importance and respectability. However, this

external formality is softened by the exquisiteness of the

city’s cultural offerings, particularly in the areas of music,

theatre, art and design, in all of which Vienna was one of the

world’s leading centres for centuries, and in many ways still

is. A cross between Paris and Budapest with accents of

Berlin, Prague and Zurich, Vienna is a gateway between

Western and Eastern Europe. Orderly like Northern Europe,

it also has some of the joie de vivre of the south. Vienna is

where the slow lane meets highbrow. This is not a city in a

rush. It is compact and mostly accessible by foot, making it

ideal for a weekend break or even just a day. Yet the desire to

see and learn more about the city’s glorious past and

discover the Vienna of today, only grows the more time one

I love a city where you can go from the airport baggage claim to

the centre of town in thirty minutes or less. Vienna is such a

city. You can hit the ground running within an hour of arriving.


spends there. The music, art, parks, bike lane networks,

café society and low crime rate all combine to consistently

rank Vienna as one of the most liveable cities in the world.

I love a city where you can go from the airport baggage

claim to the centre of town in thirty minutes or less. Vienna

is such a city. You can hit the ground running, as I did,

within an hour of arriving. When I explained to my taxi

driver that it was my first time in Vienna, he eagerly

shared a wealth of knowledge about the city’s palaces,

music halls and parks breezing past the car en route to the

hotel. The Viennese are incredibly proud of the history and

beauty of their city. Almost all of the high-end hotels,

grand buildings and luxury shops are located within the 1 st

district, the historical heart of Vienna. The district is a

tangle of tidy streets bordered by middle European 17 th

through early 20 th century buildings. Ornate Baroque

fountains and churches stand side-by-side stylised art

nouveau-fronted cafés and pharmacies. At the district’s

centre lies St. Stephen's Cathedral. With its multi-coloured

tiled roof, St. Stephen’s is one of the city’s most

recognisable landmarks and the perfect place from which

to start exploring the enchanting capital. Alternatively the

Ringstrasse - a horseshoe-shaped set of grand boulevards

that borders the entire 1 st district and separates it from the

outer districts - is a good choice to begin to get to know

Vienna on foot. The Ringstrasse was commissioned by

Emperor Franz Joseph in 1858 and finished in 1865. It was

meant to signify Vienna's arrival as a European modern

metropolis, in the spirit of what Boulevard Haussmann did

for Paris and what the Diagonal did for Barcelona. At the

time, Europe’s leading architects, financed by the newly

wealthy bourgeoisie, built stately and elegant apartment

blocks, single-family mansions and government buildings

to announce Vienna's place as one of the world’s greatest

cities. Today, a walk, cycle or tram ride along the tree lined

5.3km Ringstrasse allows one to leisurely take in some of

the city’s most important buildings and parks. At one end

there is the Greek revival Austrian National Parliament

building, the gothic Rathaus (town hall) and Burgtheater -

SEE

MAK

The Museum of Applies Arts is a jewel and a must see for design buffs. It

houses one of the most complete and impressive collections of Art Nouveau

style in the world, primarily based on design architecture, furniture and art

and crafts. The exhibit chronicles the origins of art nouveau from the 1890s, a

time when Austria was in search of a modern style, up through to interwar

period, when the style and art deco became more en vogue globally. Except

for the most devoted of connoisseurs, the entire collection could be

appreciated in less than an hour. However, the knowledge gained will help to

enlighten visitors of the visually stunning part of not only Viennese art and

cultural history, but also of modernism. When the MAK opened in 1863,

founded by Emperor Franz Joseph, it was the first of the many grand

museums to open on the Ringstrasse. At the end of the year, the much beloved

restaurant space at the MAK will be reopened under the name Salon Plafond.

www.mak.at

UPPER BELVEDERE

The Belvedere refers to the palace complex situated in Vienna’s 3 rd district.

The grounds date from the early 1700s and include two baroque palaces

(Lower and Upper), fountains and gardens. The Upper Belvedere houses


one of the most important theatres in the German-speaking

world. At the other end lies the splendid Museum for

Applied Arts (MAK) and the world famous Staatsoper

(state opera house). At the top of the Ringstrasse - like the

jewels in the crown - are the Natural and Art History

Museums, giving way to the elegant parks that border the

sumptuous Hofburg Palace (www.hofburg-wien.at), the

former imperial palace that was the winter residence of the

rulers of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, on and off since

the 13 th century.

the world’s largest collection of oil paintings by Gustav Klimt. Klimt was

one of the founders of the Secession movement in Austria, an extension of

Art Nouveau. His sensual and immediately recognizable paintings have

become part of today’s zeitgeist. In the Upper Belvedere you have an

entire gallery devoted to these iconic masterpieces, including Kiss and

Judith. For many, it is one of life’s highlights to gaze at these works in

person. The effect is profound. Works by Egon Schiele and Oskar

Kokoschka, devotees of Klimt, are also represented.

www.belvedere.at

STATE HALL LIBRARY

If the notion of tackling the entirety of Baroque art history intimidates or

exhausts, head to the State Hall Library for a quick but awe inspiring fix.

The former court library was created in the first half of the 18 th century. It

is considered one of the most beautiful library halls in the world and one

of the most important examples of secular Baroque architecture. More than

200,000 volumes are displayed here as well as housing one of the largest

collections of Martin Luther writings from the Reformation Era. On

display are a roving assortment of one of a kind illuminated manuscripts

and maps. However, it is the marble floors, frescoed arches and domes,

and floor to ceiling walnut bookcases that combine to impress. The effect is

at once joyous, jaw dropping and scholarly.

In Vienna it seems there is a museum for almost everything.

The splendour of Austria is on display in numerous

buildings, housing collections that make up the palace

complex. These include the Sisi and Treasury Museums. As I

explored the complex, I randomly stumbled into the State

Hall, which is regarded as the one of the most handsome

libraries in the world, and is the biggest baroque library in

Europe. Elaborate, elegant, breath-taking and under visited,

the State Hall ranks amongst the most spectacular set of

rooms I have ever seen. The wealth and art collections of the

Hapsburgs are on display throughout Vienna. The Albertina

Museum - located in the 1 st district near the Hofburg Palace -

houses pristine examples of what Hapsburg interiors looked

like, including furniture and tapestries, plus some

exceptional drawings by Michelangelo and Durer. The

museum is better known for its excellent permanent

collection of impressionist paintings. It would be impossible

for many to contemplate art and Vienna without mentioning

Gustav Klimt. Vienna is one of the best cities in Europe, and

indeed the world, to gain an appreciation for art nouveau,

the modernising movement that swept through the western

world at the turn of the 20 th century and led to art deco.

Klimt remains perhaps the most well known of the art

nouveau protagonists. The Klimt gallery at the Upper

Belvedere - another palace complex of exhibition spaces in

Vienna's 3 rd district - has the most Klimt paintings in one

space anywhere in the world. If art nouveau is your thing

then a visit to MAK, the Museum for Applied Arts, is a must.

It houses an unrivalled collection of furniture, decorative

arts, and paintings that chronicle the art nouveau movement.

TASTE

CAFÉ CENTRAL

Vienna has no shortage of historic and authentic cafes. However, Café

Central ticks all the boxes and then some. Founded in 1836, it is a Viennese

institution. In the late 19 th century it was a key meeting place of the

Viennese intellectual scene. Famous patrons included Leon Trotsky, Josip

Tito, Sigmund Freud and even Adolf Hitler. The interior is impressive –

marble pillars, arched ceilings and glittering chandeliers. Waiters in black

tie usher patrons to banquets or standalone tables and chairs and ply them

with delicious home made pastries and coffee served dozens of ways. You

can ogle the pastries in the dual aspect glass display cases that dominate the

foreground of the café. From 5pm on most days there is live piano music.

The location on the corner on an attractive and busy street in the 1 st district,

a stone’s throw away from the Hoffburg Palace, means that you will

probably pass by its entrance numerous times. Take the time to go in and

enjoy what Vienna is famous for.

www.cafécentral-wien.at

ZUM SCHWARZEN KAMEEL

Another Viennese institution, Zum Schwarzen Kameel (The Black Camel)

was founded in 1618. It occupies a very prominent position just off the

Graben in the heart of the Vienna’s luxury shopping district. Its credentials

as an esteemed dining establishment were established during the time of

Beethoven who is said to have been a regular patron. The locale runs a

slightly different format than a typical café. The large front room is mostly

standing with bar stools and counter tops, yet is sophisticated. They serve

tasty sandwiches and of course coffee and pastries. If time is not an issue

and a proper lunch or dinner is desired, head to the elegant and intimate art

nouveau dining room towards the back. The menu, which focuses on

Austrian specialties, changes seasonally. Be sure to order Wiener schnitzel

even if you don’t see it on the menu. They prepare this national dish

beautifully.

www.kameel.at

PLACHUTTA

For straight up Viennese cuisine served in a low key yet inviting setting,

head to Plachutta. Popular with both tourists and locals alike, Plachutta

specialises in Tafelspitz or boiled beef, another one of Austria’s national

dishes. Potatoes, chives, and a sauce combining horseradish and

applesauce accompany each order. The menu features other Viennese

staples such as goulash soup, calves liver and braised pork with cabbage.

The cross-section of patrons, from business men to families to visitors, gives

proof that comfort food served in a warm and unfussy surrounding is as

popular as ever. Reservations are highly recommended.

www.plachutta.at

Virtually unique to Vienna, are the vineyards that thrive in

the hilly outskirts within the city limits. Wine taverns, or

“heurige”, take a close second place to coffee houses as

places to socialise and unwind.

So much walking around and absorbing millennia of art and

history, is best enjoyed by taking plenty of breaks and

visiting as many cafés as possible. Vienna is famous for its

coffee houses, institutions throughout the city where you

can effortlessly linger from breakfast through to lunch and

on to dinner. Almost immediately upon arrival, I made my

way to Café Landtmann on the Ringstrasse - a regular haunt

of Sigmund Freud - for a late lunch of Wiener Schnitzel and

potato salad, followed by apple strudel and coffee with

heavy cream. My fellow patrons were a mix of well-heeled

Viennese politicians and businessmen, families, bohemian

intellectuals and tourists. When visiting Café Landtmann

and others - like Café Central, Café Mozart, Zum

Schwartzen Kameel and Café Sperl - do take the time to ogle

and taste the sumptuous pastries and peruse coffee menus

that are pages long. Don’t be in a rush. Watch the world go

by. Relax and recharge. Coffee culture is deeply rooted in the

city's history and psyche. One of the seminal moments in

Viennese and Western European history took place in 1683

when the Ottoman army was finally defeated at the city's

gates, thereby keeping Vienna out of the Ottoman sphere

Virtually unique to Vienna are the vineyards that thrive in the hilly outskirts within the city

limits. Wine taverns take a close second place to coffee houses as places to socialise and unwind.

UPPER BELVEDERE


forever. Sacks of coffee belonging to the retreating Ottomans

were found, and the rest, as they say, is history. Viennese café

culture really came into it’s own at the end of the 19 th

century. It was in the coffee houses that the different classes

and segments of society - such as artists, writers, musicians,

scientists and businessmen - would mingle and discuss

topics of the day.

Enjoying life is a prerogative of the Viennese. Virtually

unique to Vienna, are the vineyards that thrive in the hilly

outskirts within the city limits. Wine taverns, or “heurige”,

take a close second place to coffee houses as places to

socialise and unwind. In the warmer months, sitting outside

in the gardens of the taverns, surrounded by vineyards, is a

favourite pastime of locals. Vienna is well known for its

parks and gardens. Fifty percent of Vienna's land mass is

made-up of public green spaces, making it ideal for runners,

cyclists and nature lovers. There is Prater Park famous for its

Ferris wheel, which was the tallest in the world until 1985.

There is the Volksgarten, known for the hundreds of varieties

of roses which make up the imperial rose garden. There is

Stadtpark with its boating lake, and statues of Mozart,

Strauss and Schubert, a nod to Vienna's status as the city of

music. A bit further afield is Schönbrunner Schlosspark,

home of the elegant Schönbrunn Palace, summer residence

of the Habsburgs.

SCHONBRUNN PALACE

40

City of palaces, city of gardens, city of music,

city of museums, city of coffee houses.. there

are so many layers to Vienna. The city may

no longer be capital of an empire but its

proud and elegant spirit is alive and well.

Home to OPEC, the IAEA (International

Atomic Energy Agency), and the third most

important United Nations city after New

York and Geneva, Vienna continues to pull

its weight in the world. And, due to its

geography and historical ties, Vienna is the

de facto financial capital of Eastern Europe,

the River Danube connecting the city to

Bratislava, Budapest and Belgrade.

Beethoven wrote and premiered his great

masterpiece “Ode to Joy” - the final

movement of his 9 th symphony - in Vienna.

The city and it glorious sites made my heart

sing. Like any good flirt, confident of their

attraction and self worth, the city left me

wanting more.

SIP

LOOS AMERICAN BAR

For more than a century, Loos Bar (also know as the American Bar) has been one of the

architectural jewels of fin de siècle, art nouveau Vienna. Located in the heart of the 1 st district,

the space itself is intimate and cosy. However what it lacks in physical space, it more than

makes up in style and vibe. Mahogany counters, ceiling panels and mirrored walls combine

with onyx and amber backlit wall tiles, and green and white marble floors, to create this

timeless temple of bohemian elegance. Gucci filmed a TV advertisement here a few years

ago. Loos has always been a beacon for visiting Hollywood stars ever since Orson Wells

made it his regular haunt when filming The Third Man in the 1930s. The owner operates a

strict no camera rule. To sip a cocktail at Loos is the epitome of chic.

www.loosbar.at

MEINL’S WEINBAR

Also located in the 1 st district, Meinl’s wine bar offers a sophisticated boozy break from the

luxury shopping that surrounds it. Austria is becoming increasingly well recognized for its

wines. Offering more than 30 mostly local wines by the glass and 2000 by the bottle. Meinl is

the perfect place to advance your Austrian sommelier skills. The Weinbar is located in the

lower ground floor of Julius Meinl am Graben, the well-known gourmet food and wine

department store. Meinl is a delicatessen temple in the league of Harrods’s of London and

Fouchon of Paris.

www.meinl.com

LE LOFT

For an alternative to the many traditional and historic places in which Vienna excels at, head

to Le Loft, the rooftop bar and restaurant on the 18 th floor of the Sofitel hotel in Vienna’s 2 nd

district. Floor to ceiling, wrap around windows allow for a dramatic birds eye view over

Vienna and beyond. Go before sunset for drinks and then stay on for dinner at the acclaimed

restaurant. The wine list is certainly impressive; however, this is a real cocktail bar. The vibe

is smart and cosmopolitan.

www.sofitel.at

SPEND

LOBMEYR

J. & L. Lobmeyr is the famous glassware shop and museum located in Vienna’s 1 st district.

Founded in 1823, Lobmeyr has provided glassware and chandeliers to palaces, museums,

and private homes all over the world ever since. Past clients include the Metropolitan

Museum of Art, the Kennedy Performing Arts Centre and the Kremlin. At their main store,

they offer an extensive offering of the finest European manufacturers and ateliers as well as

their own designs and lines. There is a particular focus on glassware table sets, decorative

accessories, chandeliers and other lighting fixtures. There is no pressure to buy. However, the

exquisiteness of what is on display will make it difficult to escape empty handed. The second

floor is the home to the glass museum. The 19 th century interiors are worth the visit alone. In

many ways Lobmeyr epitomizes the best of Vienna – imperial splendour with 21 st century

appeal.

www.lobmeyr.at

HOLZER GALERIE

Located in the leafy and trendy 7 th district, Holzer Galerie is a treasure trove of art nouveau

furniture. They deal original pieces from both the late 19 th and early 20 th Centuries. They have

repeat clients from around the world who commission individual pieces as well as furnish

entire homes. The airy and well-proportioned showroom is complimented by detailed

catalogues, outlining history and inventory of all the signature Art Nouveau styles for most

furniture types. Bespoke orders on reproductions can be customized in terms of wood finish

and textile type and colour. Werner Holzer, one of the owners, is friendly, helpful and more

than willing to sit down with customers to determine what their requirements are. Actually,

there are two show rooms on the same street: one that deals more exclusively with furniture

reproductions and the other with original pieces and more portable home accessories.

www.galerieholzer.at

BURGGASSE 24

Also in the 7 th district, Burgasse 24, is a forward thinking concept store combining art and

fashion along with café. Primarily focussed on a well-curated and vintage selection of men

and women’s clothing and accessories, Burggasse 24 also features contemporary young

designers. Couches and shabby chic style make the store feel like a living room. Indeed, it is

so welcoming and comfortable that you may just want to stay a while. There is an adjoining

space that also serves as an art gallery and event room, where you’ll often find a DJ on the

decks. The café is warm and buzzy, acting as a bit of a creative nexus for the area, a hub of

creative boutiques and galleries that stand in contrast to the more traditional and well heeled

offerings in the 1 st district.

www.facebook.com/burggasse24

PALAIS HANSEN KEMPINSKI VIENNA

Heritage listed and 5-star, the Palais Hansen Kempinkski combines

location with modern comforts in elegant surroundings. The

ambience is relaxed luxury. The hotel is located at the Schottenring

part of the Ringstrasse, on the periphery of Vienna’s historic 1 st

district. Originally built as a hotel for the World Exhibition in 1873,

the building encompasses latter 19 th century scale and period

features with 21 st century creature and technological comforts.

Within walking distance of the Vienna Stock Exchange, St.

Stephen’s Cathedral and Hofburg Palace, the hotel’s central

location also benefits from easy vehicle and U-Bahn access. Opened

in 2013 after a multi year renovation, the property feels fresh and

warm. Home to Edvard - a Michelin-stared fine dining restaurant -

the Palais Hansen Kempinski has established itself as one of

Vienna’s most desirable addresses.

The cosy, old world-style reception and concierge area gives way to

a large main lobby, the central courtyard of this former palace.

Double height and topped with large skylights, the spaciousness

and light of the foyer impresses. The centre of the room is dominated

by a coffee table (with books and games to choose from), from

which an architectural gem of standing chandelier emanates. It is a

lobby in which to have tea, conduct an informal meeting or to just

relax on the many sofas after a busy day or night out on the town.

It feels like the living room you wish you had. This union of classic

yet relaxed is evident throughout the hotel. Die Kuche is the more

informal all day dining restaurant, its layout incredibly well

considered. There is an open seating area as well as more private

seating nooks. The tables are well spaced from each other, ensuring

a degree of discretion if you want it. The main dining room features

impressive and well-maintained living walls and natural flooring.

The breakfast buffet is one of the best you may ever experience in

terms of quality and presentation, reminiscent of an upscale

Viennese bakery. The hotel spa - which includes a fitness centre,

pool and sauna – is not dissimilar to an Ottoman hamam, complete

with geometric doors and multi-coloured tiles. All of these details

add an innovative and intimate touch to this high-end property.

All 152 rooms - including 54 suites - combine classic design and

Viennese style elements. Colours are subtle shades of brown, beige

and cream. All rooms have an iPad-driven entertainment system,

allowing guests to not only regulate the TV and lights from one

place but also order room service, book spa treatments and read

newspapers. Bespoke for Palais Hansen Kempinski, each room has

a Vienna insider’s guide that provides unique, exciting and helpful

tips for discovering some of the city’s more off the beaten track

delights. Whilst Kempinski properties excel at delivering luxury

experiences in excellent locations with superb service, it is the

personal and individual touches at Palais Hansen Kempinski that

make the hotel truly stand out.

www.kempinski.com


PARK HYATT VIENNA

Park Hyatt Vienna reset the standard for luxury accommodation in

the city when it opened mid 2014. Located in the 1 st district, in the

oldest square in the city, Am Hof, the hotel is literally in the

middle of it all. It sits within the city’s recently pedestrianised

luxury shopping district and is fifteen-minutes walk from most of

Vienna’s important sites, including the Hofburg Palace, Albertina

Museum and Opera House. The hotel occupies a 100-year old

protected building that was once the national headquarters of a

bank. The imposing edifice underwent a five-year no-expense-spared

renovation, which returned the building to its former

art nouveau glory. The result is nothing short of spectacular.

Opulent and sophisticated, Park Hyatt Vienna exudes luxury

throughout.

As one might imagine from a turn of the century bank headquarters,

the proportions of the lobby and foyer are enormous and ooze

establishment. However, it is the wealth of art nouveau architectural

and design details that make the property exceptional and

without doubt on par with the world’s best hotel buildings.

Marble, rich wood panelling, alabaster, brass and mother-of-pearl

are plentiful throughout. In keeping with its origins, the name of

the main restaurant, which is open plan and an integral part of the

hotel experience, is called Bank. It is nothing short of a visual

masterpiece. In addition to lunch and dinner, Bank is where

breakfast is served. The effect of starting one’s day in such a lavish

setting is not easily forgotten. It lifts, awakens and impresses the

senses. Many of the hotel’s common areas are named after various

elements of the building’s history and design details. The lounge

and bar is called Pearl, after mother-of-pearl. Adjacent to Pearl is

the more clubby, wood panelled Living Room, which is a deluxe

cigar and whisky bar. Arany, the spa, occupies the basement of the

building. The swimming pool floor is adorned with gold leaf,

paying homage to its location in the former bank vault.

The Art Nouveau detailing continues throughout the hotel’s 108

rooms including 35 suites, many of which have been fashioned

from the former executive bank offices. All rooms have high

ceilings, parquet flooring and large windows with views over the

baroque facades of Am Hof square or Vienna’s historical cityscape.

Rooms feel opulent yet uncluttered.

The location, Bank, Pearl and Arany all make Park Hyatt Vienna

an incredibly desirable and luxurious hotel address. However, it is

the attention to design detail and the lovingly attentive restoration

that catapults this property to world class status.

www.hyatt.com

44

Upper Suite

The Upper House

Space comes at a premium in Hong Kong, where the

average price of real estate is higher than almost

anywhere else in the world, and urban development

surges upwards rather than outwards. The tangle of

tall office and residential buildings that cover every

inch of Hong Kong Island’s prime commercial and

financial hubs clamour for space as they soar to the

sky, affording spectacular views of bustling Victoria

Harbour and its throng of maritime life.

According to Forbes, luxury real estate in the city

averaged USD11,000 per square foot in 2012, and it

has continued to rise since then. It’s a situation worthy

of contemplation as I gaze out from my suite on the

44 th floor of The Upper House, the aptly named

boutique hotel designed by Hong Kong-based

wunderkind Andre Fu, which counts celebrities,

business tycoons and the odd royal among its loyal

guests. It’s also the flagship property of Swire Hotels’

slowly expanding House Collective, which also has

properties in Beijing and Chengdu.

From my Upper Suite, the view is uninterrupted for

270 degrees, looking out across the towers of Hong

Kong Island and over the harbour to the buildings of

Kowloon on the other side. To the rear, lush, forested

slopes spill down the side of The Peak, the green

mountain that towers over the city.

There are just twenty-one Upper Suites at the hotel,

which are second in size only to two Penthouse Suites,

which are virtually identical but for the addition of a

second bedroom. My temporary home, suite number

4406, is an open and welcoming space that radiates

warmth and natural calm, with limed oak floors and

cream oak timber walls offset by art that seems to

have been designed with the suite in mind. The first

thing you see on entering is a wood-grain sandstone

sculpture by artist Marvin Mintofang, whose work

appears throughout the hotel. Amid the frenetic

activity of Hong Kong, walking into the suite puts me

immediately at ease.

The hotel has no reception area in the traditional

sense; check-in takes place in the comfort of the

suites, where snacks pre-ordered during the airport

limo transfer (in a Lexus RX450 Hybrid or Mercedes

S-Class – both with WiFi) are ready and waiting.

The term ‘House’ is fitting, and I feel at home as soon

as I enter the suite. In the living area, there’s a huge

L-shaped sofa, stacks of weighty hardback tomes on

fashion, architecture and design, and floor-to-ceiling

windows. Next door, there’s a roomy bedroom with

plenty of wardrobe space and a meditative bathroom

with twin sinks (essential to a harmonious holiday if

travelling with a significant other), a huge limestone

46 40 The Cultured Traveller December 2015/January 2016

bathtub loaded with all-natural REN amenities, and an

open-sided rain shower whose podium-like floor lends

a pleasing sense of drama to one’s ablutions.

The neutral colour palette throughout the suite (and

the rest of the hotel), with liberal use of oak, bamboo

and other natural finishes, appeals to the aesthete and

the naturalist. If, like me, you like your hotel rooms

unfussy, intelligent and practical, this will tick all your

boxes. But it’s the small touches that elevate this from

a great room to a suite par excellence: a ‘Maxi Bar’ (their

version of the minibar) complete with complimentary

soft drinks, snacks and beer (wine and champagne is

chargeable) that’s restocked daily, playing cards in case

the mood demands a game of bridge, and a bathrobe

that’s softer than a kitten’s belly.

I couldn’t say how long I spent gazing out over Hong

Kong as it changed colour throughout the day, the

neighbouring buildings reflecting kaleidoscopic images

on their mirrored windows. The only reason

compelling enough to tear me away from those views

and the comfort of my suite was sun-downers and

dinner at the superb Café Gray Deluxe, the domain of

Chef Gray Kunz and home to what I will confidently call

the best braised short-rib in Hong Kong. Martinis at

the bar followed by dinner at a table by the window

overlooking the twinkling lights of Hong Kong is an

absolute must. Repeat your visit the following morning

to enjoy breakfast in the company of finance execs,

bankers and the occasional pouty model, who appear

equally in awe of the superb à la carte breakfast menu.

If you can tear yourself away from the hotel itself,

there’s plenty to entertain in the immediate vicinity.

The hotel occupies the uppermost 11 floors of an

angular, glass and steel building in Pacific Place, a vast

Swire Properties mixed-use project in Admiralty that

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includes four five-star hotels, acres of premium office

space, serviced apartments and one of the most

luxury brand-packed malls in the world.

Head out through The Upper House’s discrete porte

cochère, tucked away behind the ‘Stone Curtain’ façade of

the building, to explore Pacific Place. This elegant entrance

is part of the development’s recent face-lift by British

architect Thomas Heatherwick, whose other notable

works include the 2012 Olympic Cauldron, the Bombay

Sapphire Distillery, and the new style London bus.

Returning to the hotel on a post-shopping high, you’ll

notice the Stone Curtain is just one part of what Andre

Fu called the ‘Poetic Upward Journey’: a voyage

through art, which continues from the entrance all the

way up to the 49 th floor in the Sky Lounge and Café

Gray Deluxe. This artistic journey is mapped out on a

beautifully designed presentation card listing

individual works and their creators, available from the

concierge desk on the ground floor.

It’s likely that you will have to leave your suite during

the course of your stay, be it for a business meeting or

to explore the gritty neighbourhood of Wan Chai,

which is going through ultra-rapid gentrification as

Michelin-star chefs and independent designers move

in. But leaving just makes the return all the more

sweet, and entering The Upper House after another

Hong Kong escapade feels like coming home, again

and again.

Writer Joe Mortimer stayed in an Upper Suite at The

Upper House in September 2015.

In December 2015 and January 2016 the nightly rate for an

Upper Suite is USD2,500 inclusive of breakfast and taxes.

www.upperhouse.com

December 2015/January 2016 The Cultured Traveller 49 43

QATAR AIRWAYS’ A380 BUSINESS CLASS

Few international carriers have achieved growth quite as

quickly and established themselves quite as strongly in

the worldwide airline arena as Qatar Airways. First

established in 1993 and re-launched in 1997, the national

carrier of Qatar, based at the multi-billion dollar Doha

Hamad International Airport, has in just twenty years

grown at an astronomical pace, from a fledging airline of

less than a handful of planes, to a multi award-winning

premium brand known the world over, flying 160 aircraft

to destinations across six continents. Winner of the

prestigious Skytrax Airline Of The Year award no less

than three times in the past five years - in 2011, 2012 &

2015 - it is hardly surprising therefore, that from one of

introduce a two class configured A380 seating 617

passengers), Qatar Airways is bucking the trend and

putting service and comfort for its premium passengers

first, which in an ever growing market segment, may just

prove to be a very wise move. Affluent travellers are

demanding more for their money and better service on

board, and the Qatar Airways A380 business class cabin

delivers this with just 48 seats on the upper deck in a

1-2-1 configuration, each with an 80” fully flat bed, 17”

HD in-flight entertainment screen and direct aisle

access.

The elegant lounge area had more in common with a slick

the youngest fleets in our skies today comes probably

the best designed A380 interior I have experienced to

date. Qatar Airways' A380 business class product is so

thoughtfully designed and seamlessly executed, that

apart from a couple of minor irritations, I found the

entire experience impossible to fault, and for someone

who has flown the skies in a number of A380 business

class cabins on different airlines, these are not words I

speak lightly.

The quality of Qatar Airways’ business class service has, I

believe, a lot to do with the airline’s spacious

configuration of 517 seats in three classes. At a time

when airlines seem to be cramming more people onto

their A380s (Emirates has dropped its first class cabin

from some of its undelivered superjumbos, in order to

Soho cocktail bar than anything I had experienced in the

sky to date, with a long, curved central bar virtually

dividing the room in two, allowing people to sit and chat

on either side, on deep curving leather sofas, broken up

by small tables, where passengers could gaze out of the

windows at the fluffy cloudscape whilst sipping their

flutes of Krug - or stand at the bar and order an

expertly-mixed cocktail and nibble on olives and snacks.

The room felt very un plane-like, probably due to the

absence of a large screen mapping the route of the flight

(which so many airlines seem to like), force-reminding

passengers that they are on a plane, when perhaps

they'd prefer to feel like they are in an upscale lounge

floating through the sky. Qatar Airways has got this room

just right. I could have lingered there - as some

passengers did - for the entire journey.


From the moment the super jumbo quietly took off and

began its ascent into the sky, an air of calm, tranquility

and understated exclusivity filled the business class

cabin, which was presided over by a bevvy of graceful

and polite attendants, floating up and down the aisles,

smiling as they delivered food dishes and tasty treats to

grateful guests. I'm not sure if it was the perfectly

turned-out all-female crew, or whether all of the business

class passengers on my flight were under some sort of

hypnotic spell, but everyone was relaxed and chilled and

happy. The flight felt like a moving members club in the

sky, with not a trolley in sight, and guests waited on hand

and foot and delivered everything they wanted on

demand. No rigid meal times. No fussiness. No rules. No

set anything. Recline, walk-around, watch a movie, sip,

eat, chat, relax and enjoy. I had much pressing work to

get done on the flight, but once on board found it very

both easy access to the seat and some reassuring cosseting

when sleeping. An ingenious desk-shelf glided out from

underneath the TV screen, on the same level as the

surrounding shelves, to provide surely one of the largest

workspaces of any business class in the sky, providing

ample space for my laptop, phones, magazines, glasses

and various other bits and bobs we all drag onto planes

with us. And when I needed a bigger desk, a flap folded out

to enlarge the workspace further, all exceptionally well

engineered, solid-feeling, beautifully designed and

supremely functional. In fact, pretty much everything I

touched during the flight felt high quality and built-to-last.

My solitary gripe on my flight, was that when travelling

with a companion (as I was) and occupying the central

two seats, we were served by different stewardesses in

different aisles who could not seem to coordinate our

difficult to set my mind to work mode, such was the

calmness of the energy in the cabin.

The toilet felt more like a bijou, nightclub powder room -

rather than a loo in the sky - scented with fresh red roses,

decorated in a number of finishes including faux wood

veneers and marble, with a large sink and waterfall tap,

laden with deluxe toiletries by Rituals of the Netherlands.

An oversized padded leather seat covered the toilet, so

when using the room just to change or freshen-up, the

space felt like a posh, compact changing room.

From the perspective of a business traveller and laptop

user, the functionality of the seat and desk were the best I

had ever experienced on any A380. Armrests rose and

dropped electrically at the touch of a button, providing

meal times, despite being instructed, when the flight

took off, to serve us at the same time. It was annoying

that I was eating my main course while my companion

was already on dessert. Since this could apparently not

be corrected midway through our meals, I suggest you

do make sure that - if travelling with someone - you

make the crew well aware that you want to eat at the

same time. This was honestly my only complaint. With

the exception that the flight from London to Doha wasn’t

long enough. I could have easily spent 10 hours or more in

Qatar Airways’ A380 private members club in the sky.

Nicholas Chrisostomou flew on a Qatar Airways A380 from

Heathrow to Doha on 15 November 2015.

www.qatarairways.com

S KY BRIEF

NEW VVIP TERMINAL AT LAX Pop divas, Hollywood movie stars,

tech billionaires and corporate moguls aren’t your average air travellers. So it

should come as little surprise that Los Angeles International Airport is building a

special terminal to protect celebrities from the indignities of paparazzi photos and

encounters with - or even just the mere sight of - the general public and

autograph-seekers.

The American Board of Airport Commissioners has unanimously approved a plan to

LA COMPAGNIE ALL BUSINESS CLASS TO NEW YORK

There is something very special about a plane where everyone is in luxury class - it

feels like a private jet, or an exclusive flying club where everyone is an invited

guest or of a certain wealth level. Two Frenchmen, with years of aviation

experience, Frantz Yvelin and Peter Luethi, identified the world’s two most popular

long-haul routes - Paris and London to New York - leased two Boeing 757-200s

from Icelandair, did away with economy completely and lowered business class

redevelop a cargo hanger into a rather special terminal. For USD1,500 to USD1,800

per flight, celebrities and diplomats will be able to drive (or let's face it - more

likely be driven) into a covered entrance, before entering a terminal with its own

security line, passport controls and lounges. When it’s time to board, a car service

will drive passengers directly to the plane. The Cultured Traveller suspects that

Kanye West may be footing the bill for LAX’s new VVIP terminal, so that no one

(apart from he) gets to see his Kardashian spouse remove her Louboutins and put

them on a conveyor belt.

SINGAPORE UPGRADING 777 FLEET Premium Asia Pacific carrier,

Singapore Airlines, is investing USD325 million to retro-upgrade 19 Boeing

777-300ERs with the latest generation of cabin products, featuring new seats in all

classes and the world’s most advanced in-flight entertainment system. This huge

spend on existing aircraft will provide consistency across the airline’s entire 777

fleet, and demonstrates Singapore's confidence in the future of premium full-service

air travel and the airline's determination to keep high-spending travellers happy.

fares, and replaced the usual 300+ seats with just 74 flat-beds. Marketing itself as

"the boutique airline for people who like business class comfort without the

business class price tag", their company, La Compagnie, may well revolutionise

business class travel in the same way easyJet and Ryanair revolutionised economy.

Winter offers start at just GBP1,000 Luton Newark return, or GBP1,700 for two

passengers flying together. The Cultured Traveller thinks that this is a bit of a

bargain for an all business class roundtrip from London to the Big Apple.

www.lacompagnie.com

EMIRATES' NEW 617-SEATER A380 Emirates launched on 25

October 1985 with a single route to Karachi. Back then Dubai Airport had just 3

million passengers annually. 30 years later the airport handles more than 70

million passengers and the airline is the world's largest operator of the Airbus

A380. Emirates currently flies more than 60 of the superjumbos, but - in an attempt

to command greater yields for its brand and reputation - has recently taken

delivery of two new A380s that do not feature the airline's prestigious first class

The new cabin products are currently available on selected daily services to

London Heathrow and Tokyo Narita. They were introduced after more than two

years of development with world-renowned design firms, including BMW Group

DesignworksUSA and James Park Associates. Singapore's new first class seat

featured a fixed-back shell design with curved side panels for added privacy,

ergonomically sculpted cushion and adjustable headrest, customised in-seat

lighting, and at 35 inches wide and with an increased bed length of 82 inches, is

one of the most spacious first class products in the sky. www.singaporeair.com

suites. The premium Middle Eastern carrier has dropped its 14 first class suites

and 2 showers from 15 of its undelivered superjumbos, in order to introduce the

world’s first two-class configured A380, which will seat 617 passengers in

economy and business classes. This is a full 100 passengers more than it's

regional airline rival, Qatar Airways, whose A380 jets carry 517 passengers.

Emirates has this month launched daily flights between Dubai and Copenhagen,

using its first two-class 617-seat A380s.

www.emirates.com


54

No Shoes Required

Claudia Avila-Batchelor is embraced by an opulent seafront palace retreat,

on the shores of Playa Grande in the Dominican Republic

Christopher Columbus marveled at the lushness

and beauty of Hispaniola when he first set eyes

on her in December 1492. Making it his

colonial base from which to explore the

Americas during his efforts to establish

permanent settlements on the island of Hispaniola, initiated

the Spanish colonisation of the new world. The subsequent

decimation of her natives and imperialistic dominance,

resulted in the division of the island into what is now Haiti

in the west and the Dominican Republic in the east. Despite

these historical horrors, the Dominican Republic has

remained stoic and majestic, continuing to lure people from

all over the world to her effervescent beaches. In the north

of the island, these are some of the most stunning and least

spoilt in the region. Unlike most other Caribbean islands,

the Latin stamp has not been eradicated and as such, a

playful Latino warmth prevails throughout, characterised

by the language, food, music and general spirit of its

people.

The DR - as Americans affectionately call her - has been

colonised by the Yanks in addition to the Spanish, French,

British and Dutch. Add to that the barbaric subjugation of

African slaves to its shores, and the DR’s native evolution

shines brightly with a glorious blend of races, creating a

human rainbow of the most diverse and dazzling colourings

in the Caribbean. It is therefore apt that I retreated for a no

shoes required moment of pleasure, to a setting that can only

be described as a slice of India in the tropics, but this time an

infinitely more welcomed colonial invader! Balaji Palace

takes its name from the man who commissioned the creation

of this splendid, opulent edifice, renowned vascular surgeon

Dr. Malur R. Balaji.

Hailing from Bangalore, the third largest city in Southern

India, Dr. Balaji left his native country to study medicine

and eventually settle in the US. In due course he found his

own corner of paradise in the northern part of the DR, and

began the process of building his dream - a place he could

call home and from where he could easily escape to from his

adopted New York. Taking eight years and USD 30 million

to complete, Dr. Balaji’s home was eventually opened to the

public in 2010 - a couple of years after enjoying it for his

private use - since he did not wish to see the property mostly

empty throughout the year. His boutique villa on a grand

scale is conveniently located for three international airports -

Santo Domingo, Puerto Plata and Samana - each between an

hour and a half to two hours away, making Balaji Palace a

fantastic long weekend option, especially when travelling in

DR, Colombia or Florida.

Because it was originally built as someone’s home as

opposed to hosting the public, walking into Balaji Palace is

literally like being embraced. Every detail has a personal

touch. Dr. Balaji has lovingly built a place that makes guests

exhale their worries at the front door. The Palace is divided

into three separate buildings, all a moments’ walk away from

each other. A large atrium in the centre of the domed

structure in the main house, bestows ever-changing patterns

of light across grand pillars and intricate balconies. Each of

the three floors comprises a total of eleven suites, featuring

hand-carved beds and furniture, sensual Indian silks and

throws, and huge stone and marble bathrooms. I would say

the look is one of ‘graceful Raj.’ You can really inhale the

sea breeze from every room.

Beautifully carved doors and mirrors, ornate light fittings

and a dash of mirrored and pastel tiles, show off the artisan

talent that was employed to add countless unique touches to

the property. The Palace is a treasure trove of artistic

expression, none more apparent than with the delicately

sculpted Indian ladies on the light alcoves on the curving

December 2015/January 2016 The Cultured Traveller 49 57

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staircases. I frequently smiled with joy at finding interesting

and quirky artifacts scattered around. The suits of armour

and antique telephone were just two things that could not

have been more pertinent.

There are two cliff suites carved into the rocks on the

seafront, each with their own small kitchens for those who

would like to be more private or independent. A

plantation-style house on the opposite side of the main

property provides a further four rooms which can also be

rented separately by groups or individuals. There is truly

something for everyone here.

Attentive but non-intrusive staff ensured that my every

request was met and delivered with nothing but infectious

smiles. Kicking off my shoes on arrival, I gulped a

refreshing melon juice offered with greedy gusto, which

really was the most delicious I had ever tasted. The

epicurean delights continued throughout my stay. Balaji

Palace’s chef uses locally sourced organic produce, so every

meal option comes from a very short seasonal menu, and

every bite was nothing less than culinary splendor. It was an

added bonus to watch local fishermen bring in their catch,

which was on our plates within a couple of hours. Meals

tasted as wholesome as they were succulent.

The location of the Palace makes it a little prohibitive to

venture out and explore or shop as all there is to see is

verdant farmland, tropical palm trees and undeveloped coast.

For me this was bliss and basic for a vacation place where

shoes are largely redundant. The ethereal ambience is further

enhanced by the Disney-esque wildlife on the property.

Resident peacocks willingly show off their beauty,

butterflies flirt wildly with colourful flowers, hermit crabs

peek at you from under pretty shells, fish pirouette out of the

aquamarine waters, cicadas and frogs serenade you at dinner,

birds chorus you awake, baby dinosaurs play peek-a-boo

across the grounds as neighbouring chickens curiously greet

you. I can see why there are no televisions in the rooms. This

is a place to reconnect with nature and yourself. Apparently

there was a very good in-house spa and there’s talk of a gym

being constructed, but with so much natural beauty all

around, plus old school recreation such as board games,

billiards, ping pong and cards…why bother? This is even

before you even think about walking through exotic gardens

down to the magnificent beach.

Time stood still as I watched the brightest stars on the

darkest of skies, and fell asleep to the sound of the sea. Yet

sadly - before I knew it - my shoes had to be put back on my

feet and my divine time at the Palace was over. But I will

most definitely return. Next time I may even wear one of the

many outfits I didn’t get to dress up in - such was the

relaxation I felt that nothing else but my sarong was

necessary.

www.thepalacedr.com


SPOTLIGHT

SANUR

Lucy Taylor discovered that the

grande dame of Bali’s tourism scene

is making a five star comeback

With its balmy, palm-fringed beaches, lux

accommodation, batik-filled boutiques and a

wealth of cultural attractions, Sanur is a

destination with some serious credentials. Once a sleepy

fishing village nestled on Bali’s southeast coast, Sanur was

put on the global map in 1906, as the landing site for the

Dutch invasion. It reprised that role in World War II when

Japanese forces landed there. Several decades on, Sanur was

back to its tranquil self and by the 1980s was garnering a

reputation as Bali’s first tourism hotspot. Big names such as

Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall, Sting and Yoko Ono flocked to

its sun-drenched shores to enjoy a secluded slice of paradise.

Yet despite its obvious attractions and high-flying fans, this

relaxed retreat has remained relatively under the travel

radar, with the bulk of tourists heading to the island’s other

holiday hubs. But now this is changing and Sanur is

enjoying something of a renaissance, as discerning travellers

seek out less hectic alternatives to crowded Kuta and

traffic-filled Seminyak.

There’s a lot to recommend in this gentile resort town, from

its pretty beaches and lively water-sports scene, to a bustling

town centre packed with fashionable boutiques and

perfumed spas, topped off with a generous helping of culture

thanks to plentiful local temples and a thriving art scene.

Sanur is also home to a wide range of places to stay, the

speciality being beachfront luxury, with a number of

attractive resorts gracing its coastline. Internationally branded

5* hotels are still something of a rarity in Sanur, but at the end

of 2014 a new deluxe property arrived on the scene. Although

it opened in 2013 as Regent Bali, Canadian hotel group

Fairmont took over management of Fairmont Sanur Beach

Bali in December 2014. This is a beautifully designed resort,

with a clean, elegant style and tasteful local touches, such as

the intricate wooden screens dividing the lobby area, carved

in the Kawyng motif: a tessellating floral pattern at one time

used only for the clothing of Java’s royal families.

Guest rooms at Fairmont Sanur Beach Bali are a welcome

respite from the Indonesian heat. Cool havens of glossy dark

wood, they are accented with soft cream and muted blue

furnishings, and decorated with polished driftwood

sculptures. The highlight of the Fairmont Garden Suite we

occupied, was without doubt

the outdoor space, a huge

covered area almost the same

size as the room itself. It was

the ideal space for gazing out

onto the frangipani-filled

garden below, and catching the

last rays of sun tousling the tips

of the palm trees. Those looking

for an ultimate holiday

experience should consider the

Presidential Beachfront Villa,

which comes with its own

private entrance directly onto

the sands, spectacular 180°

vistas across the Indian Ocean,

a private pool, spa treatment


room, steam room and obligatory expansive separate dining

and living areas.

Whilst the hotel is just a minute’s walk from central Sanur

and multiple dining options, the standard of food at the

Fairmont is exceptionally good. Layang Layang is an all day

dining restaurant with an Indonesian flavour. Guests are

welcomed by the sonorous sounds of the 'gender' - a local

instrument similar to a metal xylophone - and can choose

from a buffet of local specialities or order à la carte.

Meanwhile the poolside Nyala Beach Club and Grill - a

colonnaded restaurant spilling out onto a broad terrace

overlooking the pool - offers a more international menu and

is a lovely location for a lazy sundowner. Here you can drop

into an oversized armchair, select from a cocktail list heavy

with Balinese inspiration and fruity, tropical concoctions,

and watch the poolside burners send flames dancing across

the water, casting a gentle glow over the bright pink orchid

sculpture by renowned British artist Marc Quinn (pictured).

Dinner at Nyala Beach Club and Grill was a refined

Mediterranean treat, featuring classic dishes with a modern

twist, prepared using local ingredients. The chilli crab was

sweet and fresh, whilst the Carbonara Raviolo with Parmesan

ice cream was clever and delectable. Main courses of spring

chicken and plump, pan-fried local Barramundi were

beautifully cooked, satisfying and elegantly presented. For

dedicated foodies, numerous cooking classes offer an insight

into the local culinary heritage, most including a pre-class

trip to Sanur market, an entrancing riot of noise and colour.

The only element that occasionally let down Fairmont Sanur

Beach Bali - when we visited at least - were the staff.

Fairmont is renowned for its knowledgeable local

employees, delivering service and insider information with

a smile. Here, that attitude was definitely not present across

the board, with several employees displaying a lacklustre

attitude and even, upon occasion, a basic lack of knowledge

about the hotel itself. This wasn’t a blanket problem at the

resort - some employees were friendly, helpful and very

well informed - but it was clear that more work was needed

to bring the whole team up to scratch.

Once you have successfully secured a position by the hotel

pool - an infinity affair with a stunning sea-view - you

could well be tempted never to leave, but Sanur’s enticing

centre is little more than a short walk away and most

definitely worth a visit. Once out of the hotel’s sprawling

Situated on the northern shores of the Dead Sea, set an

amazing 400 metres below sea level on the shores of the

world’s deepest salt lake and in a land teeming with history.

Mövenpick Resort & Spa Dead Sea is an oasis of tranquility

with its astonishing surroundings and offers guests a

destination unlike any other in the world.

Mövenpick Resort & Spa Dead Sea

Sweimeh, Dead Sea Road

P.O. Box 815538, 11180 Amman, Jordan

Phone +962 5 356 11 11, Fax +962 5 356 11 22

resort.deadsea.reservations@moevenpick.com

www.movenpick.com

Moevenpick.Resort.DeadSea

MovenpickJo

www.movenpick.com

Remarkable and stunning.

SPEND

Nogo Bali Ikat Center

This well-established artisan store sells hand-woven Indonesian

fabrics in various forms, from clothing to curtains. Staff are

knowledgeable and happy to talk curious customers through the

complex dying and weaving processes.

www.nogobali.com

TASTE

Massimo

Run by the eponymous chef Massimo Sacco – a Bali resident for

more than 20 years – this welcoming and unpretentious courtyard

restaurant serves up huge wood-fired pizzas and flavoursome

fresh pasta dishes, along with specialities from the chef’s

home-region of Lecce. Booking is advised since there’s often a

queue in the evenings.

www.massimobali.com

manicured gardens, you’ll soon find yourself on the

beachfront, where a 5km path leads strollers and cyclists

past seaside bars, restaurants and spas. Turn up one of the

inland roads and within a few minutes you’ll be in the main

high street, a veritable Aladdin’s cave for the keen holiday

shopper. Here a slew of stores sell everything from wooden

carvings and sarongs made from local batik fabrics, to

colourful artworks and delicate silver jewellery. As the

destination has attracted more discerning travellers, so

high-end shops have opened up to serve them. There are

many stylish stores vending beautifully cut linens and

naturally dyed silks, of a high quality to rival any

fashion-led capital. By night, Sanur centre comes alive with

numerous bars and restaurants, offering visitors a wealth of

dining delights ranging from authentic Indonesian fare

through to excellent Italian, German and French options,

many of which are run by expats who’ve made the town

their home.

Laden with delicious eateries, relaxing spas, plenty of

activities and luxurious accommodation, the idyllic seaside

town of Sanur is the perfect counter to Bali’s louder and

brasher resorts. The key is to visit soon and enjoy it now

before too many others recognise its understated appeal.

SIP

Tandjung Sari

Bali’s original boutique hotel, Tandjung Sari (which means ‘Cape of

Flowers’), is where Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall got married. Make

your way through the lush gardens to the beachfront bar and order

sweet, fresh starfruit martinis and get some serious rockstar-like

satisfaction!

www.tandjungsari.com

SEE

Pura Blanjong

The Blanjong Temple, just to the south of Sanur, is the area’s most

important religious site. As well as showcasing the traditional

temple set-up on a grand scale, it’s home to Bali's oldest known

artefact, an inscribed stone pillar - the Prasati Blanjong - dating

back to the 10 th Century.

PLAY

Water Sports

Sea-based activities abound in Sanur, where scuba-diving,

snorkelling, fishing and boat trips are readily available. Take a

stroll down the beach path and negotiate a deal with one of the

numerous tour operators lined up along the sand.

RELAX

Bali is famous for its blissful spa treatments and you can’t walk far

into Sanur town centre without being offered a relaxing reflexology

session or invigorating head massage. But if you’re after a more

deluxe experience, visit the in-house spa at Fairmont Sanur Beach

Bali, where expert therapists offer everything from a traditional

Balinese full body massage to a complete holistic package.

www.fairmont.com/sanur-bali/spa

STAY

Fairmont Sanur Beach Bali

Sanur’s newest luxury resort boasts elegant design and superb

food set on an unbeatable beachfront location, just minutes from

the town centre. This is a resort to suit every style of vacationer.

www.fairmont.com/sanur-bali


TRAVELLER

LOWDOWN

Avid foodie and traveller, Gordon Hickey, advises to

visit Doha before the world cup masses descend, to

enjoy Qatar's charming capital at its best.

Doha, Qatar. One of the newest cities in the world.

40 years ago it was a sandy fishing village on a

barren peninsula jutting out into the Arabian Gulf.

Pearl fishing was what kept the small population

ticking over. Fast forward to the present day and

this sprawling metropolis is one of the fastest

growing cities on the planet and top of the list when it comes to

wealth per capita. The discovery of natural gas in their coastal

waters, leapfrogged these traditionally Bedouin people out of their

tents and into gleaming penthouses high above the desert below.

DOHA TOWER

Qatar isn't one of the most well known places on the planet but

they are preparing to become centre stage, when the 2022 World

Cup will be hosted by this petite nation. Endless wealth from their

natural resources has Qatar dreaming. And their dreams are big.

Actually their dreams are huge. Spending some time in this city

while still relatively undiscovered is a must, and with guaranteed

sunshine 99% of the year, you’re certainly onto a winner if good

weather is an essential ingredient of your trip.

Doha is relatively small so navigating the city is pretty easy. The

main bulk of attractions are located along the corniche

(waterfront), and although there is no established public transport

system (they are in the throes of building a gleaming new metro

system - phase 1 will be operational by the end of 2019), taxis are

inexpensive and in abundance. However a more delightful way to

get your bearings in the city, is from the upper level of an open-top

double-decker Doha Bus, which ambles around Doha’s highlights

at a leisurely pace (www.dohabus.com).

One of the first stops on any tour of Doha should be the Museum

of Islamic Art (www.mia.org.qa). This magnificent building -

designed by much-celebrated architect I.M. Pei - rises on its own

island just off the city’s waterfront corniche, and is the jewel in


INDULGE AT Grand Hyatt Doha.

Celebrate unparalleled luxury at Grand Hyatt located on the shoreline of the West Bay Lagoon.

The hotel features balconies or terraces in all rooms, suites and villas showcasing breath-taking

views of the Arabian Gulf.

The hotel offers extensive meeting and banquet facilities, a full-service business centre,

the renowned Jaula Spa, a 400-metre private beach, indoor or outdoor pools and a broad

selection of cuisines at our innovative outlets.

For reservations and more information call +974 4448 1234

Hyatt. You’re More Than Welcome.

GRAND HYATT DOHA

West Bay Lagoon, P.O. Box 24010

Doha, State of Qatar

Facebook.com/GrandHyattDoha | doha.grand.hyatt.com

HYATT name, design and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2015 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved

MUSEUM OF ISLAMIC ART

MUSEUM OF ISLAMIC ART

"The discovery of natural gas in their coastal waters, leapfrogged these traditionally Bedouin

people out of their tents and into gleaming penthouses high above the desert below."

Doha’s architectural crown. The structure is a powerful cubist

composition of square and octagonal blocks stacked atop one

another, culminating in a central tower. Inside 41,000 square feet

of galleries are organised around a towering atrium capped by a

dome. The MIA houses manuscripts, textiles, ceramics and other

works mostly assembled over the last 20 years, and has emerged as

one of the world’s most encyclopedic collections of Islamic art. At

the very top of the museum is one of Doha’s finest restaurants,

IDAM, Alain Ducasse’s first restaurant in the Middle East and

winner of countless accolades. Here you can feast on French

Mediterranean cuisine with an Arabic twist in a stunning dining

room designed by Philippe Starck. IDAM’s 3-course set lunch at

QR200 (roughly EUR50) is good value for such a dramatic and

memorable culinary experience (www.alain-ducasse.com).

One thing you will notice while in Doha, is its adventurous

attitude towards building statement properties; the skyline rivals

those of New York and Hong Kong. Some of the structures have

won awards, notably the cylindrical Doha Tower, which won the

Best Tall Building Worldwide award in 2012. To get a peak into

Qatar’s future, visit the Msheireb Enrichment Centre

(www.msheireb.com) at the other end of the corniche, close to the

Sheraton hotel. Here you can get a glimpse of the mammoth

projects the reigning Emir has in store for his nation,and wonder at

the infrastructural projects in the pipeline. With all the exploring

you’re bound to work up an appetite, and Doha is one of the best

places to get a unique flavour of the world. Apart from flying,

eating is highest on my list of favourite things to do, and in Doha I

was spoilt for choice. A good place to fill up on great food is Souq

Waqif. This marketplace is bursting with restaurants to suit every

palette. I could happily eat Middle Eastern cuisine daily and

Damasca One restaurant is my first recommendation (+974 4475

9088). Here you can sample some of the finest cuts of grilled

meats, and dip them into an array of hummus, moutabels, labnehs

and baba ganoushes. My favourite dish of the region is

muhammara, a traditional spread that originates from Syria and is

made from a blend of red peppers, walnuts, olive oil, pomegranate

and chilli. It resembles an exotic, aromatic hummus and it is

irresistible, so be ready to fight over who gets to scrape the bowl.

Once you’ve had your fill of delicious foods, take a stroll around

the souk for souvenir, carpet and traditional garment shopping.

This is also the place to try the local coffee or karak (sweet tea).

Sip, sit, watch the world go by and marvel at the locals in their

crisp white dishdashas and flowing black abayas. Take a breather

and celebrate the fact you’re in one of the newest and fastest

growing cities in the world.

It’s worth mentioning that Doha has restaurants to cater to every

budget and all tastes. Nearly a quarter of Qatar’s residents hail

from India and I can honestly say that the best curry I’ve ever

tasted was in Doha, not India. Nestled in a small street at the

beginning of the busy Salwa Road is Homeland Restaurant (+974

4441 9789). This brightly lit, canteen-style eatery is one of the

cheapest - yet tastiest - establishments to sample Hyderabadi style

dishes in the city. A curry, rice, naan bread and soft drink will set

you back about EUR4. If you’re looking for something a little

more extravagant, being in one of the world’s richest capitals,

naturally there is a wealth of choice. Doha is home to some of the

culinary world’s top restaurant brands, including Nobu, Hakkasan,

Gordon Ramsay and more, and waiting times are substantially

shorter than London or New York. These high-end eateries are

some of the only places you can have an alcoholic tipple with your

meal, as Qatar is a strict Muslim country and alcohol is only

available within a five-star hotel. My favourite destination

restaurants in the city are Isaan at Grand Hyatt Doha (+974 4448

1250), Spice Market at W Doha (+974 4453 5000) and Hakkasan

at The St. Regis Doha (+974 4446 0170). As Doha food

experiences go, I have saved the best ‘til last. If you happen to be

passing through Doha on a Friday, brunch is an absolute must.

Dress in your finest (yet loosest) clothing and indulge in a 4-hour

food and drink fest commencing just after midday. These

all-inclusive brunches cost anywhere between EUR80 - EUR120

depending on the hosting hotel. Fill up on lobster, foie gras,

champagne, more lobster, Sunday roast, sushi, more champagne,

and do as the ex pat population do: eat, drink and be merry. One of

the city’s best is The Grill’s award-winning brunch at Grand Hyatt

Doha (+974 4448 1240). Visit www.diningindoha.com for a full

rundown of the decadent brunches every Friday afternoon.


After so much eating and exploring you are going to need some downtime and

R&R. Luckily Doha is littered with some of the best spas in the world. The Six

Senses Spa at Sharq Village (+974 4425 6999) is out of this world. Unwind with

treatments in a traditionally styled location, take a dip in the pool and enjoy

lunch on the terrace overlooking Doha Bay. At the other end of the city is Jaula

Spa at Grand Hyatt Doha, which holds the accolade of winning the World

Luxury Spa Awards in Qatar in 2014 and 2015 (+ 974 4448 1056). If yoga is

more your thing, check out Yama Yoga Studios in Asas Towers

(www.yamayogastudios.com). Bhanu Bhatnagar is one of Doha’s most

respected teachers and he’ll calmly bend and contort your body until you’re

blissfully stretched. Doha has plenty more to offer in terms of leisure activities -

visit www.eventsdoha.com for details.

So with exploring, eating and relaxing out of the way, it’s now time for some

fun. You may be under the illusion that Doha is a sleepy city by night because

of alcohol restrictions, but this is simply not the case. In fact Doha has a

thriving nightlife and clubbing scene, and a constant stream of world-renowned

DJs keep the expat community (and some locals) entertained into the wee hours,

on most nights of the week. The weekend begins after work on Thursday, which

is when Doha’s young, vibrant and stylish revelers come out to play. Global DJ

superstars Calvin Harris, Bob Sinclar and Mark Ronson, amongst others, have

all played in Doha recently. There is a very active jazz and swing music culture,

with a multitude of regular jazz nights around the city, and the dedicated Jazz at

Lincoln Center Doha club at the scene’s epicenter (www.jalcdoha.com) boasting

live performances curated by world renowned Jazz at Lincoln Center artists. If

house music is more your tempo and you wanna dance, head to Hed Kandi at

Strata (+974 4015 8888), Doha's highest nightlife venue situated 56 floors

above the city. Here you’ll enjoy great music and spectacular views to match.

Other funky bars to check out include Sky View at La Cigale Hotel

(www.lacigalehotel.com), Wahm at W Doha Hotel (www.whoteldoha.com) and

The Rooftop at The St. Regis Doha (www.stregisdoha.com).

There are plenty of places to rest your head in Doha. New hotels continually

pop up and again cater to every budget. Most of the high end, well known hotel

chains are located in West Bay. Here you'll find hotels such as the Kempinski,

W Hotel, Intercontinental, Four Seasons and Hilton, nestled amongst some of

the architectural gems I spoke of earlier. In West Bay Lagoon you’ll find the

very popular Grand Hyatt Doha Hotel set in 27 lush acres, across the road from

swanky Lagoona Mall (www.lagoonamall.com), an upscale shopping

destination where you can buy everything from an iPhone to a piano!

Being in a modern bustling city, you tend to forget that geographically you are

standing in one of the hottest,driest, most barren places on our planet (unless it’s

between June to September when the heat is unbelievable). Book a local driver

to bring you out to the desert and marvel at the sandy wilderness that is only a

40-minute drive from Hamad International Airport. Tours of the dunes can be

organised at an easy pace, but if you're feeling adventurous and want to be a

modern-day Lawrence of Arabia, try your hand at dune bashing, which is

effectively racing up and down massive sand dunes in 4x4s. This heart

-stopping way to see the desert will be one adventure you won't forget in a

hurry. Also worth visiting is the Inland Sea, which is a great place to catch your

breath again. This is one of the few places on earth where sloping sand dunes

meet the waves of the Arabian Gulf. Contact Arabian Adventures Qatar for an

inland Qatari adventure (www.arabianadventureqatar.net).

Doha has so very much to offer that there is just too much to fit into one article.

It’s not as commercial as Dubai or as developed as Abu Dhabi, and has

managed to hold onto much of its historical identity. Being more compact than

UAE cities gives Doha an endearing, village-like charm. Though things are

changing fast. My advice is to visit before the World Cup masses descend, to

truly enjoy Qatar's bustling and charming capital at it’s best.

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"

Doha has a thriving nightlife and

clubbing scene, and a constant stream

of world-renowned DJs keep the expat

community entertained into the wee

hours, on most nights of the week."

SOUQ WAQIF

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& S SIP

EDVARD

VIENNA

Food

Atmosphere

Vienna abounds in cafes and traditional

restaurants that serve classic Austrian and middle

European home cooking with panache and style.

Specialties like Wiener schnitzel, goulash,

apple strudel and Sachertorte never fail to please. The

settings for such old standards are typically authentically

staged family run restaurants with long and established

pedigrees. The interiors - oftentimes steeped in mid 19 th

and turn of the century Art Nouveau design - can alone

warrant a visit. Service is professional, dignified and warm.

However, increasingly a new fresh crop of chefs and

restaurants are claiming their place in the Vienna foodie

scene. These restaurants favor cleaner presentations,

locally sourced ingredients, dishes with a crisper

contemporary edge and more modern interiors, which all

appeal to a more cultured clientele. Edvard has set the bar

for such modern Viennese fine dining and provides a

superb experience in a warm and intimate setting.

Located on the Schottenring part of Vienna’s famous

Ringstrasse, Edvard is located within the luxurious

TAS

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transformed the breads into an important part of the

dinner ritual to be savored.

The core of any dining experience is, of course, the food,

which Edvard delivers brilliantly. Executive chef, Anton

Pozeg, believes in using seasonal and mostly local

products of the best quality and a well-curated list of

ingredients, to achieve an innovative and modern menu.

In a city where variations of Austrian cuisine are the

norm, Edvard looks to the Mediterranean for inspiration.

PARMESAN FAGOTINI PANCETTA

Palais Hansen Kempinski hotel. Open since 2014,

Edvard has quickly established itself as one of the top

fine dining experiences in Vienna. Upon entering Edvard

- either from the street or via the hotel -one

immediately feels at ease and welcome. Restaurant

manager, Lukas, greeted me with a warm open smile

and just the right amount of fuss. Discreet and warm do

not usually go hand and hand; at Edvard, they do. The

dining area is three, spacious and handsome

interconnecting rooms. With a capacity for just 42

diners, the rooms at once felt intimate and comfortable

to me. Mostly in shades of white with lime green

accents and softened by well-designed lighting, the

décor is elegant and understated. The mood is

sophisticated and relaxed.

Soon after I was seated, a parade of beautifully

presented amuse-bouche were delivered in succession.

A glass of champagne was offered. Delicious and warm

sourdough breads arrived, baked exclusively for the

restaurant by Joseph, one of the best bakeries in

Vienna. Saffron and marigold blossom butter

There are 4-course and 7-course tasting menus as well as

the à la carte menu, and all menus change with the

seasons. In addition to keeping things fresh and exciting,

the change in menu also gives a reason to return for

another Edvard evening.

My starter of duck liver pate, with piped beetroot puree

and hot liver quickly pan-fried and then baked in salt and

ginger and served on toasted brioche, was a triumph. I

didn’t want it to end, cutting ever smaller pieces of

brioche with which to accompany the foie gras in the

hope of making it last a tiny bit longer. For my main

course, I opted for medallions of locally sourced lamb,

encrusted in herbs and mustard seeds, accompanied

with eggplant caviar and Tzatziki foam. The presentation

and taste were perfect. Dessert was orange zest and

ginger accented chocolate mousse, as well as a mini ice

cream sandwich served with blackberries on a

blackberry glaze.

Vienna is an excellent place to discover or deepen one’s

knowledge of Austrian wines. The country has


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established itself as one of the more exclusive wine

producers, not produced for the mass market, with the

focus on high quality, particularly the Gruner Valley for

dry whites. Austrian dessert wines are world renowned.

Edvard’s sommelier, Marcel, was on hand throughout the

meal to guide me through the restaurant’s wine list,

which was presented on an iPad. The digital format

allows diners to filter wines by grape, region and taste, as

well as to educate more thoroughly about the vintages

stocked. Edvard serves an impressive 60 wines by the

glass, allowing everyone at the table to choose wines per

course or as their heart desires. For a special occasion,

Edvard’s list includes Austrian wineries that produce only

a few hundred cases per year.

The sense of occasion at Edvard is enhanced by the fact

that the restaurant is just open for dinner. Moreover,

there are no set seating times. The table is yours for

the night, whatever time you decide to dine. There is no

need to hurry. And why would you want to? The food is

excellent - innovative, expertly presented and cooked

to perfection - and begs to be lingered over and

relished to the max. The service strikes the perfect

chord between professional and personal. Edvard

proves that a restaurant can have a Michelin star

without being formal or stuffy, yet at the same time

elegant and delivering a sense of occasion. Coupled

with Edvard’s relaxed and customer-focused approach

to fine dining, the impeccable service and exciting food

are what make Edvard a compelling restaurant

destination in Vienna.

BEEF, BELL-PEPPER, WILD HERBS

EDVARD

Food:

Atmosphere:

Executive chef: Anton Pozeg

Address: Schottenring 24, 1010 Vienna, Austria

Telephone: +43 1 236 1000 8070

Email: edvard.vienna@kempinski.com

Website: www.kempinski.com/vienna

Cuisine: Seasonal Contemporary

Lunch: Closed

Dinner: 18:00 - 22:00

Dinner price: Average main course EUR36

Ideal meal: 7-course-degustation menu EUR119.

Paired wines EUR89

Reservations: Essential

Wheelchair access: Yes

Children: Under 14 not admitted. No kids menu.

Credit cards: All major

Parking: Free valet

Reviewed by: Alex Benasuli on 10 October 2015 for dinner.

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

74

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AQUA NUEVA

LONDON

Food

Atmosphere

If we’re to be perfectly honest, when it comes to eating

out in Central London, Oxford Circus is a destination

we more readily associate with countless fast food

unmentionables one is occasionally forced to nip into

once a year, whilst heroically attempting to evade

dawdling tourists and placard wavers during the dreaded

Christmas shop. It is most certainly not - with one or two

notable exceptions - an area synonymous with fine

dining. Yet, with merely one judicious right hand turn

from the very epicenter of consumerist hell, barely off

the beaten track at all, there is a rather subdued and

unassuming doorway through which can be found a

rather glorious oasis of calm and gastronomic delight -

assuming you know which turn to take, of course.

On the rainy November night on which we arrived, the

only light catching this enigmatic entrance was the

reflected amber glow coming from the garish, illuminated

“CATS” marquee outside the Palladium Theatre across

the street. Once inside, a smiling-if-saturnine doorman

politely checked our bags and ushered us into an

elevator to the top floor. The whole effect was somewhat

akin to walking into a spy movie, or perhaps the gateway

between London life and one of Neil Gaiman’s short

stories, and the location is certainly a brave choice for

any establishment that expects actual patrons to

frequent it at any point, let alone regularly. Yet such is

Aqua’s international reputation for excellence, that

they’ve no need to shout their whereabouts from the

rooftops. On the subject of which, it is perhaps the two

gorgeous, prime roof terraces overlooking London’s

cinematic skyline that have placed both Aqua Nueva and

its twin sibling Aqua Kyoto firmly on the radar of

London’s dining cognoscenti since it first opened back in

2009. However, on the chilly autumnal night we visited, it

was not the Mary Poppins views we came to see. No -

and even though we can honestly say we really didn’t feel

it needed it - designer Robert Angell has created a

sumptuous refit and reimagining of Aqua Nueva for

2015. The new look restaurant quietly exudes an

effortless class and hushed elegance many pretenders

aspire to, but precious few achieve.

TM

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Due to the somewhat labyrinthine nature of the

interconnected venues, I was pleased to see that the first

thing that demanded my undivided attention was still the

somewhat unnerving, life-sized bull statue, eternally

charging headlong at you down a nightclub-dark corridor,

setting the tone viscerally for the deeply Spanish flavour

of the experience ahead. He too has had a slight

makeover, and is now resplendent in a fresh royal blue

coat of paint - a hue that suits him very well.

Once inside the restaurant, it really is all change from the

ground up. The floors are now woven with an intricate

black and cream lattice mosaic, perhaps more evocative

of an intimate Spanish favela than a setting as chic and

cosmopolitan as this. The bar has become a freestanding

island bustling with the capital’s bright and beautiful on

all sides, above which hangs an eye-catching bespoke

golden chandelier. Stop by to sample one of the many

delightful signature cocktails dreamt up by bar manager

Luca Missaglia before taking your seats for dinner - the

passion fruit-based On the way to Saronno is every bit as

exotic and refreshing as its colourful name suggests.

6 P.M To 8 P.M

7 P.M. To 9 P.M

Our Seating Times Are

8.30 P.M. Onwards

9.15 P.M. Onwards

Open Daily

Lunch 12 Noon to 3 P.M. | Dinner 6 P.M. to 11 P.M.

Closed on Poya Days

December 24th, January 23rd 2016

Old Dutch Hospital, Colombo, Sri Lanka

011 234 CRAB (2722) | reservations@ministryofcrab.com

www.ministryofcrab.com

The ceiling too has been artfully redesigned into a

captivating, elliptical curve that runs the length of the

dining area. It’s at once reminiscent of both the inside of

a smoked whisky barrel and a rather beautifully

appointed spaceship. Not an easy double-act to pull off,

but once again Aqua Nueva walks the tightrope between

these two opposing forces with the agile grace of a

ballerina. Once we took to our intimate banquette

seating below this arresting feature, it was at this point

that the real magic began. Executive chef, Alberto

Hernandez, has created a brand new menu that boldly

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encompasses both the traditional and the more

avant-garde, and this being a dining experience that has

Spain at its castanet-beating heart, we decide to go that

most Hispanic of routes, and sample the tapas.

Plate after plate (or more accurately, slate after slate) of

culinary delights were brought forth to our increasing

gastronomic amazement. Our delightful server,

Patricia, was both authentically Spanish and extremely

knowledgeable - a most welcome combination - and only

too eager to share her contagious enthusiasm for the

menu with us. Where my friends and I might have been

GRILLED HAND-DIVED SCALLOPS, SERVED WITH SAN SEBASTIAN CRAB GRATIN

inclined to stick with the classics (the padrón peppers

were indeed exquisite, and it’s more or less a given that

the jamón ibérico is always a mouth-watering must), she

made an impassioned plea for us to step out of our

collective comfort zone and sample some of the more

adventurous elements on offer, and who were we to

argue. The Pulpo a la gallega con su empanada consisted

of a divinely presented row of octopus cuts standing

proud atop a light pastry base, looking somewhat

reminiscent of an organic ocean liner. Meanwhile the

Rabo de toro marinado - oxtail marinated for a full 24

hours - was not something I would ordinarily lean

toward, but it arrived looking every inch a steaming slice

of warmed chocolate gateau, and the taste, whilst

decidedly savoury, was every bit as creamy and

fall-apart-on-your-tongue perfect.

Since one of our party stuck to seafood, the waitress

selected - quite excellently - a delightfully crisp and

fruity bottle of 2013 Albariño, Bodegas Castro Martin,

which deftly offset the heady cornucopia of flavours on

the table.

Pierre Koffman

Eileen Atkins

Mick Jagger

The Beatles

Nigel Havers

Dennis Potter

Sienna Miller

Peter Blake

Marco Pierre White

Sam Smith

Eartha Kit

Joe Orton Peter Cook

Imelda Staunton

Francis Bacon

Beryl Cook

Lucien Freud

Laurence Olivier

Janis Joplin

Coco

Frankie Howard

Chanel

Ella Fitzgerald

Diana

General de Gualle

Stephen Fry

Marianne Faithfull

Kenneth Halliwell

Dudley Moore

Danny La Rue

Elton Joh

Paloma Faith

Edward Heath

Cleo Laine

Judi Dench

Frank Sinatra

A SoHo Institution

Since 1927

Restaurant & Club Privé

Bar, Restaurant

& Club Privé

L’ Escargot

Depuis 1927

•

48 Greek Street London W1D 4EF

Telephone 020 7494 1318 www.lescargotrestaurant.co.uk

Monday to Sunday:

All day until 1am

Also worthy of note amongst the dishes sampled, were

quite possibly the most melt-in-your-mouth pristine

croquetas I had ever tasted; Salmonete con arroz negro

hojaldrado y ali-oli - heavenly little fillets of red mullet

with alioli, served on asymmetrically cut pastry parcels of

black ink rice; plus the night’s overall winner for everyone

around the table, the Vieiras con txangurro - absolutely

breathtaking scallops, served with San Sebastian crab

gratin. These are not to be missed.

There was the occasional slight misfire here and there.

The patatas bravas have undergone such a seismic

culinary overhaul that they appeared to have simply

become basic thick-cut chips, and personally I found the

soft poached egg with chorizo, pancetta and fried

potatoes a touch on the heavy side. But really, these

were very minor quibbles in an otherwise excellent and

constantly entertaining dining experience.

Amazingly, between us we managed to find the tiniest

sliver of room left to sample a dessert or two, and if you

visit Aqua Nueva I heartily suggest you do the same.

You’d be forgiven for overlooking the Pan con chocolate y

aceite, which rather unflatteringly describes itself as

“chocolate, bread and olive oil”, but do so at your peril

because ours arrived looking far more glamorous than it

sounded - and with an opulent taste to match. The other

big hit at our table was the Arroz con leche al limoncillo y

sopa de moritas de verano, a lemongrass rice pudding

with summer blackberry, which literally came with

wings. This cultured traveller was already quite a fan of

Aqua Nueva, but the recent upgrade has really placed it

right back at the top of my destination eateries in

London. Excellent.

Click here to watch Creating The New Aqua Nueva

CHOCOLATE, BREAD & OLIVE OIL

AQUA NUEVA

Food:

Atmosphere:

Executive chef: Alberto Hernandez

Address: 5 th Floor, 240 Regent Street (Entrance 30 Argyll Street),

London W1B 3BR, UK

Telephone: +44 (0) 20 7478 0540

Email: reservations@aqua-london.com

Website: www.aquanueva.co.uk

Cuisine: Spanish

Lunch: 12:00 - 14:45 (Monday - Saturday)

Dinner: 18:00 - 22:30 (Monday - Wednesday). 18:00 - 23:00

(Thursday - Saturday).

Sunday: 12:00 - 20:30 continuous service. Set menu of 4 dishes

and a cocktail GBP45.

Lunch price: Set lunch of 4 small plates GBP21.

Dinner price: Sharing plates for 2 - 3 persons around GBP80 (total)

excluding drinks.

Ideal meal: Terrina de castañas trufada, raviolis de setas, calabaza

cítrica (GBP11.50). Vieiras con txangurro (GBP13). Salmonete con

arroz negro hojaldrado y ali-oli (GBP11.50). Secreto con patatas

ali-oli (GBP10.50). Arroz meloso de pichón y setas (GBP 13.50).

Bavarese de chocolate blanco, cerezas y perfume de rosas

(GBP6.50). Pan con chocolate y aceite (GBP7.50).

Wheelchair access: Yes

Children: No kids menu

Credit Cards: All major

Parking: No

Reviewed by: Julien James Davis on 16 November 2015 for dinner.

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.


NANA

MOUSKOURI

KALIA MICHAELIDES INTERVIEWED WORLD-FAMOUS GREEK

SINGER, UNICEF GOODWILL AMBASSADOR AND FORMER MEMBER

OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT, NANA MOUSKOURI, WHO IS STILL

TOURING AND PERFORMING AT 81

PHOTOGRAPHED BY KATE BARRY

80

music&

NIGHT

LIFE

What is your personal definition of music?

Music is an endless source of inspiration, emotions,

creation and freedom. Music has many faces - it

recreates itself constantly. One should approach

music with humility, love and above all, respect.

When young Nana Mouskouri received her first

ever prize back in 1959, did she ever imagine

that she would become such a prolific singer

and a musical legend?

Of course I was happy and proud, but my need was

to sing, and my next step was to learn more and

sing better. I never thought I would come this far. It

was an unexpected dream.

You have collaborated with many iconic

figures in the music industry worldwide. Which

influenced you most?

Composer Manos Hadjidakis and poet Nikos

Gatsos, with their music and words, first gave me

an identity as a Greek singer. Before then, I studied

classical music and singing at the Conservatoire. I

grew up listening to gospel by Mahalia Jackson, jazz

by Ella Fitzgerald and Nat King Cole, and rock ’n’ roll

by Elvis Presley.

Is there anyone you consider to be a mentor and why?

Quincy Jones first for music, respect and beliefs. Harry

Belafonte for stage performances and mentoring me to

learn different repertoires. Michel Legrand for his unique

style and talent as a musician. Manos Hadjidakis and Nikos

Gatsos for their poetical direction, optimism, truth and

depth. Quincy once told me that being a good singer in my

own language would make me better in other languages.

Of all the styles of music you

perform, is there one style you

identify with most?

I believe folk rock ballads suit me like

Greek songs. I love

singer-songwriters like Joan Baez,

Bob Dylan, Leonard Cohen, Joni

Mitchell and many others. I loved -

and still do - Maria Callas. I loved the

70s - when I came to Europe - and

The Rolling Stones and The Beatles.

Who writes your songs?

Some are written for me by artist friends. Some I find

through people I admire.

You have sung duets with many artists. Is there

someone you would still like to perform with?

A duet means sharing musical emotions and creating

harmony with another artist. Both have to open to the

other and become one when creating music. I have been

lucky to sing with Charles Aznavour, Harry Belafonte, Julio

Iglesias, Johnny Mathis and Joan Baez, and shared many

wonderful moments with these talented artists. I would

like to sing with Rufus Wainwright. I would have loved to

sing with Amy Winehouse and Whitney Houston.

What has been your biggest professional challenge

to date?

My whole life, surviving in the international musical world,

has been a professional challenge. Every moment has

been important - whether learning small or large lessons -

and has brought me here and created who I am today.

What has been your most memorable career

highlight to date?

Working with exceptional musicians at the very

beginning was my first career highlight. Then my


I grew up listening to

gospel by Mahalia

Jackson, jazz by Ella

Fitzgerald and Nat

King Cole, and rock ’n’

roll by Elvis Presley.

concerts… my first Royal Albert Hall, L'Olympia

Bruno Coquatrix in Paris, L'Opéra de Paris, Berliner

Philarmonie, New York’s Carnegie Hall, Washington’s

Lincoln Theatre, Sydney’s Opera House and above

all others, my first concert in 1964 at Athens’ Odeon

of Herodes Atticus in the shadow of the Parthenon. I

must add that, on a personal note, the highlight of

my life was to mother two children, of whom I am so

very proud.

You have recorded more than

2000 songs. Is there one

special song which resonates

with you?

Hartino To Fengaraki, Plaisir

D’Amour, Amazing Grace and Je

Chante Avec Toi Liberté are all

very personal for me.

How did your 1986 hit single

“Only Love” change your life?

It first went to number 1 in France, then England,

Germany, Spain and Portugal. I believe it was an

opportunity for a younger audience to hear me. It changed

my life in that I worked harder to learn and go further.

You have travelled the world and stayed in many

hotels. Which hotel is your favourite and why?

I have stayed in many wonderful hotels but I prefer

smaller, friendly, more personal hotels, situated in

locations close to the centre of town, where I can stay

with my team when performing a concert.

Do you have a favourite holiday destination and

please tell us what makes it

special to you?

I always holiday in Greece since my

home is there, close to the sea. This

is my favourite place because I spend

so much time in hotels.

You have been living abroad for

the majority of your life. Do you

still consider Greece home?

I am and will always be Greek. A

European Greek, I say this in a good way. Many countries

in Europe welcomed and adopted me as a Greek singer,

and I grew up across Europe singing in many languages. I

have been living between France, Germany, England and

Switzerland but feel at home everywhere.

Becoming a goodwill

ambassador for

UNICEF was a great

privilege, perhaps one

of the most valuable

parts of my life.

Is there a particular place in Greece that is special

to you?

Perhaps Athens, although I love the islands. I love

everything about Greece. I grew up in Athens during WW2

and then the civil war. I love Corfu - the island my mother

came from - and Agios Petros Kynourias, the village my

father came from.

Do you still have connections with

Crete?

Yes, I still have many friends there.

Also my godmother is from Crete.

As a UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador

you have travelled to many

underprivileged countries. How

would you describe this experience?

Becoming a goodwill ambassador for

UNICEF was a great privilege, perhaps

one of the most valuable parts of my life. I was fortunate

not only to experience and share emotions and hard work

with UNICEF workers, but also to drive projects for

children, in order to give them a future and more dignified

lives. It felt like I gave out some of the love I have received

in my life. I feel honoured to be working with UNICEF.

After serving five years as a member of the European

Parliament, what triggered your decision to resign?

I thought I could help my country get closer to Europe. I

tried my best, but realised that politics is not my forte. I

believe in peace, love, hope and unity.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DINOS DIAMANTOPOULOS

Your daughter Lenou is also a successful artist in

her own right. Since both of Lenou’s parents are

musicians, in what way would you say each of you

influenced her musically?

Lenou chose the best way she knew to express herself

and was very little influenced by her parents. She listened

to the music of her time, developed her own distinctive

style and has a beautiful voice.

How do you relax and where in the world?

I relax at home, in the company of my husband, listening

to music. Summers are spent in Athens. Winters are

spent in Geneva or Paris.

www.nanamouskouri.net

84

GLOBETROTTER

DESIGNER TO THE STARS AND WELSH SUCCESS

STORY, JULIEN MACDONALD OBE, TALKS

EXCLUSIVELY TO THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

ABOUT HIS PATH TO INTERNATIONAL FASHION

GREATNESS, HIS FAVOURITE PLACES TO HOLIDAY

& WHAT HE SIMPLY CANNOT TRAVEL WITHOUT

How did your love affair with fashion begin?

I’ve always had a passion for fashion. As a young boy I

would always wear flamboyant clothes. It was during

my time at Cardiff School of Art & Design that I fell in

love with decorative textiles. Soon my passion turned

from fashion to textile design, with knitwear being my

favourite medium.

Over the years many celebrities have been named

fashion icons, including Jackie Onassis, Audrey

Hepburn and Grace Kelly. Which fashion icon, if she

or he were alive today, would you have liked to tie

with one of your collections?

I’ve always been a huge fan of Marilyn Monroe. If she

were alive today she would be my fashion icon. I loved

her sense of glamour and style, whilst at the same time

always being so chic and sophisticated.

You aspired to be a dancer, instead you followed a

path to fashion. How did this change of heart happen?

As a young boy my mother used to send me to tap and

ballet lessons, you could say I was like a young Billy

Elliot. However whilst I loved dance but it was not

what I really wanted to do. I dreamed of being an artist

or pop star - Boy George and Culture Club influenced

me greatly.

From London’s Royal College of Art to head knitwear

designer at Chanel. Please describe the moment Karl

Lagerfeld approached you and what it meant to you.

During our course we were given a brief to design a

wardrobe for a typical Karl Lagerfeld customer and I

made two black biased-cut lace knitted dresses. At the

time I was very good friends with Isabella Blow and

Philip Treacy. Isabella gave me two pairs of Manolo

Blahnik shoes and Philip gave me two evening hats, so

I styled my dresses with expensive accessories. Since

Karl was the judge I had the pleasure of meeting him,

he loved my designs and named me the winner of the

competition. The prize was to work with him that

summer in Paris.

Would you say that success came easy to Julien

Macdonald?

Success never comes easy. You must always learn from

your mistakes and never forget true family values.

What are your favourite materials and components

to use when designing one of your famous gowns,

and what’s the most lavish frock you have ever

created and who wore it?

I love using amazing embellishments on my dresses

and use a lot of Swarovski crystals and wonderful

beads from all over the world. Everyone needs a

fabulous black dress, and I created one that Kate

Beckinsale wore to the Vanity Fair Oscars party. It’s an

amazing dress, embellished with thousands of black

Swarovski crystals.

Which fashion designer do you most admire and why?

I have always been a huge fan of Chanel. When I was

23 I had an incredible opportunity to work closely with

Karl Lagerfeld when I became his protégé and Chanel’s

knitwear designer. To me Chanel is elegant and

timeless and never goes out of fashion. Karl Lagerfeld

is a fashion legend.

From where do you derive your inspiration to create

a new collection?

My inspiration for all of my collections comes from my

love of travel. I’m constantly searching the world for

inspiration, whether it is Miami, Bali, Las Vegas or

Russia. I also visit many exhibitions in my home city of

London, my favourite being the V&A Museum.

Tell us about your new menswear collection.

It was always a passion of mine to design a menswear

collection and I felt the time was right for Spring

Summer 2016. Over the past five years, there has been a

massive progression within menswear, which is

particularly cutting edge and exciting in London.

Tell us about one of your most creative and fun

fashion collaborations.

I have a fantastic relationship with Debenhams. My

designs are in more than 200

stores worldwide.

Debenhams allows my

customers to buy into the

Julien Macdonald brand at

high street prices via Star by

Julien Macdonald. I design

womenswear, girlswear and

homewares and all these

products can be bought

under one roof at

Debenhams.

Where do you go to relax?

Quite honestly I love anywhere hot. I recently went to

Frégate Island in the Seychelles, absolutely loved it and

it has already become one of my favourite holiday

destinations.

What do you like to bring back from your travels?

When I go travelling I always explore the local culture

and visit art exhibitions, galleries, churches and street

markets. This is where I find new inspiration for my

collections. I am always taking photos and buying

antiques or fabulous antique textiles.

What do you never leave home without when

embarking on a vacation?

I always travel with my black cashmere tracksuit and

blanket. I get changed as soon as I board a flight. These

are my travel essentials and I take them everywhere.

What elements can guests at a Julien Macdonald

runway show always expect to see and experience?

My shows always attract a celebrity packed front row.

Kylie, Mick Jagger, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss

have all been spotted at my show. The show is always

dramatic and fun for anyone attending. The

atmosphere is electric and the anticipation is high as

people wait for the models to strut down the runway in

my latest collection.

What’s the most beautiful destination you’ve ever

visited?

I have visited many beautiful destinations but I

wouldn’t say that one of them was top. My favourite

places to visit are St Petersburg, Bali and Florence, but

there are still many places I would love to visit,

including Japan and Buenos Aires.

Do you have any tips for keeping up appearances on

a long-haul journey?

Whenever I travel I always take my Elemis

Hydra-Balance Day Cream and Hydra-Nourish Night

Cream. Another thing I like to do is use lavender room

mist on my pillow when I’m sleeping since it helps me

to relax. I also have a fabulous Bottega Veneta face mask

which I never leave home

without when travelling.

What’s your favourite hotel

in the world and why?

I have so many favourite

hotels it’s difficult to pick

just one. In Paris it would

have to be The Ritz. In

Miami I’d say Soho House or

The Edition. My favourite

hotel in Mykonos is the

Theoxenia.

What's top of your travel hot list - somewhere you

haven't visited yet?

I’ve always wanted to visit Australia. Japan is also

somewhere I would love to visit.

Are you a fan of winter sports and what’s your

favourite ski resort?

I am a huge fan of winter sports and ski every year. I

particularly love Gstaad in the Bernese Oberland

region of the Swiss Alps.

Do you have a favourite hotel spa anywhere in the

world?

The Maia Spa at the Fusion Maia resort in Da Nang,

Vietnam. It is simply amazing.

What is your number one fashion travel tip?

Always travel with a great bag, I have a selection of

personalised luggage from Goyard - the famous French

malletier and trunk and bag-makers of the most

exclusive luggage in the world.

www.julienmacdonald.com


The holiday season is upon us, along with the big question, “What gifts do I

buy?” Luckily, with online shopping at our fingertips and international

shipping becoming more mainstream, we can access global products

from the comfort of our homes. Whether we want to replenish our favourite

little luxuries, discover something outrageous, or find that special gift for a

loved one, they can be delivered to our doorstep, beautifully gift-wrapped,

with just the click of a mouse or a tap on your smartphone.

Farheen Allsopp, Fashion Guru

For Him

SHAVING KIT

A natural, essential oil-based starter kit for the

perfect shave, consisting of pre shave oil,

shaving cream, after shave balm and shaving

brush. Free of parabens, phthalates and

sulphates, this is the ideal gift for a man with

sensitive skin, razor burns or a tough beard.

USD30

WWW.SEPHORA.COM

SMYTHSON TRAVEL

WATCH ROLL

This handy watch roll, made with brown printed calf leather with a

caramel suede lining, ensures that prized watches are well

protected in style. An ideal gift for a sophisticated male globetrotter,

it is part of Smythson’s 2015/2016 Mara Collection.

GBP350

WWW.SMYTHSON.COM

BACKGAMMON SET

This lacquered backgammon set is a fabulously

bright combination of function and funky design.

It folds into a chic, bright box and looks great open

or closed, adding a touch of panache to any home.

USD395

WWW.JONATHANADLER.COM

ROBINSON PELHAM CUFFLINKS

Good things come in small packages, which is certainly

true of these silver cufflinks with blue and black enamel

rounds. From the jewellers who made the

Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding earrings,

they are the epitome of cool

sophistication and are available to

order online.

GBP225

WWW.ROBINSONPELHAM.COM


IWC IW503302

PORTUGIESER WATCH

For the man who has everything, this horlogerie

collector’s dream is easy on the eye although a little

tough on the wallet! Featuring an alligator strap

and white or blue dials, it comes in two variations -

single or double moon - and features nine functions

powered by the IWC 52610 calibre. The single

moon watch pictured, features a luxury rose gold

case with a stunning silver dial and has a 7-day

power reserve.

USD41,900

WWW.IWC.COM

L’ATELIER CORKSCREW

If James Bond had to open wine bottles, he would choose this

beautiful Oeno wood corkscrew by L’Atelier du Vin. Made

from chromed metal and solid walnut, it makes the

uncorking of every bottle seem effortless. Pleasant and safe

to handle with an adaptable fit, it is a must-have accessory

for any wine connoisseur.

GBP99.95

WWW.HARRODS.COM

CHANEL BOOKS

Almost every woman has a love of Chanel. This fabulous

trilogy of books by Assouline uncovers the heritage of the

House of Chanel, from Coco’s avant-garde styles to Karl’s

current innovations. The elegant slip case includes Coco

Chanel’s jewellery, perfume, and fashion triumphs, and is a

must for the stylish lady’s coffee table.

USD49

WWW.AMAZON.COM

JO MALONE BODY OIL

Indulge a female friend with this decadent and rich

eastern scent of velvety roses and Oud. This

wonderfully moisturising body oil comes in a 50 ml

bottle, perfect for home or travelling, and comes

wrapped in an elegant Jo Malone ribbon-tied box.

GBP50

WWW.JOMALONE.CO.UK

For Her

CHLOÉ GEORGIA BAG

Chloé's Georgia bag is described by

the label as "the star" of its Fall '15

collection. The elegant curves make

it a timeless classic, while the long

cross-body strap gives it a current

edge. Though mini in size, this

classic caramel leather design has

two snap-fastening compartments

to keep your phone and keys

organised.

GBP610

WWW.NET-A-PORTER.COM

DOLCE AND GABBANA HEADPHONES

These statement headphones are made of nappa leather and embellished with the

brand’s signature jewellery and glittering, vintage-inspired adornments such as

pearls, gold chains, Swarovski crystals, and velvet across the earpieces and bridge.

Perfect for a bad hair day or for rocking that Christmas party!

EUR3,950

WWW.DOLCEANDGABBANA.COM

RYAN STORER

EARRINGS

These earrings by Ryan Storer are a

festive and contemporary take on a

classic design. Set with Swarovski

pearls and crystals, these are the

perfect accessory to a little black

dress, or a glamourous addition to

your white-T and jeans combo.

GBP206

WWW.NET-A-PORTER.COM

DIPTYQUE CANDLE SET

Light up your home this holiday

season with a limited edition set of 3

candles dedicated to the aroma of trees.

Sapin has pine-tree resin tinged with

mandarin, orange, and woody notes.

Liquidambar has amber spiced with

warm cinnamon and nutmeg, and the

third is scented with muscovado sugar

and Oliban creating incense vapours of

comforting woody scents. Perfect as a

stocking filler or small present.

Diptyque offers free delivery for orders

over USD75.

USD100

WWW.DIPTYQUE.COM

WIN!

A 2-NIGHT SUITE STAY FOR TWO

AT GRAND HYATT DOHA

Win two nights in an executive suite at Qatar's premier 5-star resort hotel,

Grand Hyatt Doha, set in 27 acres of lush, landscaped grounds in West Bay

Lagoon, within 20 mins drive of new multi-billion dollar Hamad

International Airport, and moments away from the city’s financial and

commercial centre.

All of Grand Hyatt Doha's luxury rooms and suites feature private

balconies or terraces, and many boast breathtaking views of the blue

waters of the Arabian Gulf.

Grand Hyatt Doha also offers extensive meeting and banqueting facilities,

a full-service business centre, the multi award-winning Jaula Spa & Gym, a

400-metre private sandy beach, indoor & outdoor swimming pools, and a

diverse range of eating options at half a dozen on-property restaurants

and bars, include much decorated South East Asian eatery, Isaan,

traditional Arabic cafe and shisha lounge, Majlis, and the hotel's

Mediterranean poolside destination venue, Rocca.

The lucky winner will stay for two nights in a luxury suite for two people,

have dinner for two in Rocca, enjoy breakfasts in bed, and checkout at

2pm on day three.

doha.grand.hyatt.com

WORTH

USD1250!

Please email your contact details (name, email and mobile number) to win@theculturedtraveller.com and your name will be entered into this

competition draw. The draw will take place on 31 January 2016 and the lucky winner will be contacted first week of February 2016.

Rest assured your contact details will not be shared with third parties.


A

Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort

www.anantara.com

Arabian Adventures Qatar

www.arabianadventureqatar.net

Ati-Atihan www.kaliboatiatihan.ph

B

Budapest Christmas Markets

www.budapestchristmas.com

Burggasse 24

www.facebook.com/burggasse24

Burning The Clocks

www.facebook.com/burningtheclocks

C

Café Central www.cafécentral-wien.at

Café Gerbeaud www.gerbeaud.hu

Cape Weligama www.capeweligama.com

Cartagena International Music Festival

www.cartagenamusicfestival.com

D

Dining in Doha www.diningindoha.com

Doha Bus www.dohabus.com

E

EDVARD Vienna

www.kempinski.com/vienna

Electric Daisy Carnival

www.electricdaisycarnival.com

Emirates www.emirates.com

Events Doha www.eventsdoha.com

F

Fairmont Sanur Beach Bali

www.fairmont.com/sanur-bali

Fête Des Lumières

www.fetedeslumieres.lyon.fr

Four Seasons Hotel

www.fourseasons.com

H

Harbin Ice Festival

www.icefestivalharbin.com

Hofburg Palace www.hofburg-wien.at

Hogmany www.edinburghshogmanay.com

Holzer Galerie www.galerieholzer.at

I

IDAM www.alain-ducasse.com

J

Julien MacDonald www.julienmacdonald.com

Junkanoo Parade www.bahamas.co.uk

K

Key West Food & Wine Festival

www.keywestfoodandwinefestival.com

L

La Cigale Hotel www.lacigalehotel.com

La Compagnie www.lacompagnie.com

Lagoona Mall www.lagoonamall.com

Le Loft At Sofitel Stephandsom www.sofitel.at

Le Méridien www.lemeridien.com

Lincoln Center www.jalcdoha.com

Lizard Island www.lizardisland.com.au

Lobmeyr www.lobmeyr.at

Loos American Bar www.loosbar.at

M

Mak www.mak.at

Massimo www.massimobali.com

Meinl’s Weinbar www.meinl.com

Msheireb Enrichment Centre www.msheireb.com

Museum of Islamic Art www.mia.org.qa

N

Nana Mouskouri www.nanamouskouri.net

Nogo Bali Ikat Center www.nogobali.com


P

Palais Hansen Kempinski Vienna

www.kempinski.com

Park Hyatt Vienna www.hyatt.com

Plachutta www.plachutta.at

Playa Grande www.thepalacedr.com

Prototype www.prototypefestival.org

Q

Qatar Airways www.qatarairways.com

S

Singapore Airlines www.singaporeair.com

Six Senses Residences Courchevel

www.sixsenses.com

T

Tandjung Sari www.tandjungsari.com

The Goring www.thegoring.com

The Phoenicia, Malta

www.campbellgrayhotels.com

The Pig www.thepighotel.com

The St. Regis Doha www.stregisdoha.com

The St. Regis Macao www.stregis.com

The Upper House www.upperhouse.com

Trisara www.trisara.com

U

Upper Belvedere www.belvedere.at

W

W Amsterdam www.wamsterdam.com

W Doha Hotel www.whoteldoha.com

Z

Yama Yoga Studios

www.yamayogastudios.com

Z

Zum Schwarzen Kamel www.kameel.at

•BEIRUT•

752 GOURAUD ST. SAIFI VILLAGE

BEIRUT • LEBANON

T: +961 76 997 676

M: +961 76 997 676

www.giltbeirut.com

(8) The Cultured Traveller, December 2015‒January 2016 Issue 8

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