41 Bird Scene - Winter 2018 : 2019

ISSUE FORTY ONE: WINTER 2019
BIRDSCENE
THE MAGAZINE FOR
HOBBYIST BREEDERS
AND CONSERVATIONISTS
THE NATIONAL
EXHIBITION 2018
BREEDING
THE PAGODA
MYNAH OR
STARLING
MICE, ROOFS
AND BIRD ROOM
CONSTRUCTION
FREE
SPRING EDITION OUT
4TH MARCH
2019

INTRODUCT
Les Rance, Editor, The Parrot Society UK | www.theparrotsocietyuk.org | les.rance@
This time last year we were
experiencing Avian Flu with an
outbreak in Diss in Norfolk that
started on 3rd June 2017 and as
African Grey parrots had been uplisted
to Annex ‘A’ of CITES we are
advising people on what was required
from DEFRA to ensure that all Greys
that are sold have the correct Article
10 papers. We had to inform people
thinking of buying an African Grey that
they must ensure that it had the yellow
CITES documentation, it is an offence
to buy a Grey if it is not correctly
licenced. On 15th June 2017 Alan
Jones and I travelled to the DEFRA
offices in Bristol for a meeting with
officers responsible for the
implementation of the CITES
regulations. Well in the past twelve
months sellers have become much
more aware of the up-listing of African
Greys to Annex ‘A’ of CITES and the
numbers of calls to our office on this
subject have greatly reduced. However
we did have a scare regarding
Newcastle Disease in Belgium during
the run up to this year’s National
Exhibition at Stafford, this infection
was in holdings of poultry and the
authorities in Belgium managed to
contain the outbreak and it did not
arrive in the UK.
We all know that bird keeping is a
relaxing past-time, however, for
hobbyist breeders that keep their birds
in unheated aviaries through the poor
weather experienced during the winter
months it can also be a rather worrying
time, however, with careful
preparation and planning we can
mitigate the worst of the weather. If
aviaries are exposed to the wind then
the provision of clear plastic sheeting
wrapped around three sides of the
aviary improves the conditions inside
remarkably and at a very low cost.
During the winter moths it is always
important to feed your birds each day,
not only to ensure they have plenty of
food but also to study your birds and
make sure they are not distressed by
the weather conditions. Those who
keep their stock in breeding rooms
where they can easily turn up the
heating however are in a far more
satisfactory position. In this edition of
Bird Scene we are very pleased to have
an excellent article from Rosemary
Low on the problems that mice can
cause, this is very apt at this time of
year because it is now that many mice
are wanting to ‘move in’ and thus
avoid the cold outside. There is also a
nice article from Ray Holland regarding
Pagoda Mynahs and his experiences
with these delightful softbills. Also
there is an article by myself on the
04 BIRD SCENE

ION
theparrotsocietyuk.org
BY THE
EDITOR
LES RANCE
Cape Doves which come from South
Africa and are now becoming rare in
UK avicultural circles. So really quite a
lot for you to read and hopefully pick
up some pointers that may well assist
you with whatever specie of bird you
currently maintain. This is now the
fortieth edition of Bird Scene, how
quickly seven years can pass when you
are working on project – the first FREE
on-line bird magazine produced in the
UK. At 48 pages this is quite a big
read! Every time we post the Parrot
Society magazine I cringe at the cost.
Postal costs appear to have increased
far faster than inflation and if The
Royal Mail are not careful they will find
that their income will reduce even
further as people and businesses send
less and less by conventional means.
With CPI inflation now running ell in
excess of 2.0% costs continue to rise.
These costs obviously affect bird clubs
when the show schedules have to be
posted to potential exhibitors and
equally it affects the exhibitors when
they return their entries. In addition
how much longer will bird clubs be
able to afford to post magazines to
their members? This must be a great
worry to many club officials.
Fortunately with an e-magazine we do
not have this problem, or for that
matter the cost of colour printing. As a
result of increases to the costs of
both postage and printing I am really
pleased that we decided to produce
Bird Scene as a FREE e-magazine.
We have learnt a great deal over the
past seven years about this way of
communicating with bird enthusiasts
and I am sure that this knowledge
will become more and more valuable
as we see further increases in costs
to paper magazines. We are always
happy to receive articles about the
species that are being exhibited at
The National and are very pleased to
give publicity to the club supplying
the information. Regular readers will
know that Bird Scene as been
produced to publicise The National
Exhibition held each year at our
October Sale Day/Show at Stafford
County Showground which was held
on Sunday 7th October and to
promote our Conservation
efforts for threatened parrots
in the wild. An archive of
earlier editions of Bird Scene
can be found on the Home
Page of our website
www.
theparrotsocietyuk.
org so if you would
like to see earlier
versions please do
log on to our site.

ARTICLE BY: ROSEMARY LOW
MICE,
ROOFS AND BIRD ROOM
CONSTRUCTION
06
BIRD SCENE

FEATURE
“BE AWARE THAT
INSULATING THE BIRD ROOM
IS ASKING FOR TROUBLE.
OF COURSE IT HELPS TO
PREVENT HEAT LOSS BUT
IT IS BETTER TO SPEND A
LITTLE MORE ON HEATING
THE ROOM (IF HEAT IS
NECESSARY)”
Mice and rats are extremely
resourceful creatures. If there is
a way to get into our aviaries and bird
rooms, they will find it. This means that
waging war on rodents must commence
literally before the foundations of the
building are laid. In fact it should start
with the planning. If you decide to
build a wooden bird room or perhaps
convert a double garage which is partly
constructed from wood, it will be almost
impossible to exclude vermin. Gnawing
through wood is so easy for mice. Once
they enter it will be extremely difficult
to exclude them. If you must use timber,
take the following precautions:
1. Stand the building on a concrete
base.
2. Be aware that insulating the bird
room is asking for trouble. Of course
it helps to prevent heat loss but
it is better to spend a little more
on heating the room (if heat is
necessary) than living with mice
breeding in the cavities between
the two walls. I know because this
happened to me. After two micefree
years, the mice moved in. The
glasswool insulating material was
deemed perfect for mouse nestmaking.
The only solution was to
rip out the inner wall, including the
roof lining, and leave the building
permanently without lining. The
mice moved out. But that was not
the end of the problem. They moved
into the other building which was
lined, and took up residence in the
BIRD SCENE 07

CHECK THE POINT WHERE
ELECTRICITY CABLES LEAVE THE
BUILDING, COVER VENTILATOR
AND EXTRACTOR OUTLETS
WITH SMALL MESH AND
ENSURE THAT ALL DOORS AND
WINDOWS ARE TIGHT-FITTING.
roof. A nightmare scenario! The
patter of feet which I was hearing
daily were those of mice. There
was no alternative but to take the
roof off and construct an entirely
new one. That was four years ago
and my bird room is now mousefree.
One advantage was that with
the new roof I did away with the
skylight windows. Its inclusion had
been a mistake because it caused
condensation to drip from the roof to
the floor.
3. If you have a wooden building, nail
tin plate or aluminium, inside and
out, to the height of 1ft (31cm). This
precaution will be useless if there are
any holes through which mice can
enter. Check the point where
electricity cables leave the building,
cover ventilator and extractor outlets
with small mesh and ensure that all
doors and windows are tight-fitting.
Also remember that if you have
pop-holes to allow your birds access
to outdoor flights, mice will enter if
08 BIRD SCENE

FEATURE
they have access to the flights. Welded
mesh should be buried around the
perimeter of the flights to prevent this.
For preference, don’t build a bird
room from wood. Brick is much
more expensive but if you can afford
it, brick or breeze blocks are ideal
materials. You might also consider
obtaining, second-hand, the kind
of prefabricated cabins which are
used on building sites, for example.
As long as there is no wood in their
construction!
Precautions
If you have outdoor aviaries and you feed
your birds in the flight part, mice will
be almost impossible to eliminate. You
might also attract rats. To protect food
and water from vermin, weather and the
droppings of wild birds (increasing the
likelihood of disease being transmitted),
it is essential to have an indoor section,
either an enclosed shelter or a cage
inside a building, where the birds are
fed. This increases the length of time
it will take mice to find a food supply,
BIRD SCENE 09

“GENERALLY SPEAKING,
ONCE A CAT HAS
DISCOVERED IT CANNOT
REACH THE BIRDS IN YOUR
AVIARIES, IT WILL LOSE
INTEREST IN THEM - BUT IF
THERE ARE MICE ABOUT IT
WILL RETURN NIGHT AFTER
NIGHT.”
10
BIRD SCENE

FEATURE
although it is not guaranteed to keep
them out if wood is used to construct
shelter or building.
There are other precautions that you
can take to discourage mice from finding
your garden attractive. If you feed the
wild birds, clear up any uneaten food
before nightfall. If you keep rabbits
or other pets that have a dry food,
remove any dry food at night. Finally,
do not discourage your neighbour’s cat
from visiting your garden at nightfall.
Generally speaking, once a cat has
discovered it cannot reach the birds
in your aviaries, it will lose interest in
them - but if there are mice about it will
return night after night. I would strongly
advise that when planning your aviaries,
buy enough welded mesh to double
wire all surfaces that are accessible to
cats and owls. It might seem like an
expensive exercise but this will prevent
deaths from injuries by night marauders.
Also, with the increase in
Sparrowhawks in gardens, it will prevent
these pests from attacking your birds.
Another tip is to grow climbers such as
passionflower, honeysuckle and clematis
over the top and sides of the flights.
Sparrowhawks are now so numerous,
even in city gardens, that every step
should be taken to prevent them diving
on the aviaries. Even if they cannot
reach the birds, the shock can cause
birds to desert eggs or young.
trap manufacturers, I have to say that
I have never caught a single mouse in
the metal traps that catch mice alive.
I am told that wooden ones are more
successful. Obviously traps can be used
only in bird rooms where there are no
birds loose. They can be used in aviaries
only if they can be placed inside a box
and if no small birds are present which
could enter the box.
The traditional type of spring trap,
usually baited with cheese, can be
successful - assuming you are not
squeamish about removing victims. Note
also that mice absolutely love chocolate
and this can be the best bait of all. Be
warned that some very cheap wooden
spring traps are almost impossible to
set. I once tried a plastic spring-trap
which was very easy to set. I soon found
it had a major disadvantage. The spring
was not strong enough. The mice would
be trapped but not killed. I found mice
trapped by the tail or the foot and being
too soft-hearted to see any animal suffer,
I would release these victims alive.
The newspapers often feature
advertisements for ultrasonic mouse
deterrents. I have not tried them since
I have been assured by two people
who have that they are not effective.
Eliminating mice
The trap is the most environmentally
friendly form of elimination. But does it
work? At the risk of displeasing mouse
BIRD SCENE 11

“IF THEY CAN FEED ON SEED,
THEY WILL NOT TAKE THE
POISON. MICE ARE SO
RESOURCEFUL THAT THEY CAN
LEARN TO FEED DURING THE
DAY BUT OFFERING THEM ONLY
POISON AT NIGHT WILL USUALLY
SOLVE THE PROBLEM.”
Members’ experiences on this method
would be welcome.
The obvious alternative to traps is
poison. I greatly dislike the use of
poison since it can get into the food
chain and because death is not swift.
Presumably it could also poison a cat if
a cat caught a mouse which had eaten
poison. I look on poison as a last resort.
However, to deal with rats and, in some
situations, with mice, there seems to
be no alternative. The mouse poison
which you can buy in a hardware store
is unlikely to be effective over the long
term, since mice will eventually become
immune to it. It is therefore advisable to
contact the vermin control department
of the local council. On one occasion
I saw a rat in my garden and a very
helpful man from the Council arrived
with some blocks of poison placed
inside small cardboard cartons. There
12 BIRD SCENE

FEATURE
DONATE TO OUR
CONSERVATION
FUND…
CLICK THE LINK BELOW:
http://www.theparrotsocietyuk.org/donations.php
is no charge for this service. If you as
much as catch a glimpse of a rat, call
the council immediately. Do not leave
nest-boxes in position in outdoor aviaries
all year unless you close the entrance by
nailing wood over it. If a rat enters the
aviary and finds a bird roosting inside,
it will kill it and you are likely to find a
headless victim.
If you place mouse poison in your bird
room, don’t think all you have to do is
to put it in a suitable place and wait for
the mouse population to crash. Now your
work begins. On the first and succeeding
nights of poison use in a bird room,
sweep the floor, clean the cage trays,
etc, and remove every food container. If
they can feed on seed, they will not take
the poison. Mice are so resourceful that
they can learn to feed during the day but
offering them only poison at night will
usually solve the problem.
BIRD SCENE 13

THE NATION
EXHIBITION
In contrast to the wet on Sunday
morning in 2017 it was dry but very
cold, when leaving my room in
Stafford I had to de-ice my car, the first
time this year! By buying prepaid entry
wrist bands all our members could enter
the Halls quickly after 7.30 am even
though they had to walk through the
disinfectant mats used to protect our
birds from unwanted viruses. The sale of
hobbyist breeding stock both from our
member’s and non member’s tables who
can sell finches, canaries and budgerigars
but not other members of the parrot
family was very well supported with over
640 tables in the Bingley Hall and
Prestwood Centre.
A large number of hobbyist bred stock
found new homes from the buyers who
came in large numbers. There is no
06 14 BIRD SCENE

FEATURE
AL
2018
BIRD SCENE 00

doubt that The National Exhibition
is the leading and most popular bird show
held in this country for hobbyist bird
breeders, not just because of the sales
tables but also the Exhibition that is held
in the Argyle and Sandylands Centres.
There is something for everyone available
from the 60+ traders who so generously
support this event, especially from our
sponsor Johnston & Jeff Ltd the leading
UK seed supplier.
The exhibition in the Argyle and
Sandylands Centres organised with the
assistance of the 18 clubs that support
this event continues to receive good
support. These enthusiasts work so hard
to construct the staging from mid-day on
the Saturday and take in many entries in
the late afternoon and Saturday evening.
This judged event was as popular as ever
with many high class birds on view, even
if numbers were down on 2017. Crystal
glass rose bowls were kindly donated by
Ray Howells of Birds and Things for best
bird in Show and by Steve Roach of
Rosemead Aviaries for the best junior
exhibit, their generous donations for
these valuable awards are very much
appreciated. Cage and Aviary Birds give
the Exhibition a special supplement in
their publication so that all their readers
are aware of which clubs to contact to
enter their exhibition stock into the
Show.
16 BIRD SCENE

FEATURE
Again Neil Randle our magazine
designer took a 1,000 images on
the day so that we have plenty
for the next twelve months.
Please do enjoy the pictures on
the following pages. In 2019 the
Show will be held on Sunday 6th
October and will follow similar
lines to this year’s event. Within
the two exhibition halls there is
always a great buzz of chatter
and excitement, it is always a
pleasure just to stand there and
absorb the environment and
listen to people enjoying
themselves and promoting
their hobby.
BIRD SCENE 17

18
BIRD SCENE

FEATURE
BIRD SCENE 00

BY PENNY PICKSTONE
CONGRATULATIONS
TO ALL OUR WINNERS
AT THE NATIONAL
THE FIVE SECTION WINNERS:
Best Budgerigar: H. & D. Hockaday’s grey green Budgerigar
Best Foreign: normal cock Java sparrow benched by Eric Michie
Best Canary: unflighted variegated Gloster corona hen by Rob & Ian Wright
Best British: Kevin Taylor’s current-year greenfinch hen
Best Zebra finch/Bengalese: a pair of adult fawn Zebra finches bred by Peter Harrison
Best exhibit in show:
Unflighted variegated Gloster corona canary hen by Rob & Ian Wright
Best junior exhibit in show:
heavily variegated buff Fife canary hen by Aimee Guy
06 20 BIRD SCENE

FEATURE
THE BLUE LIZARD CANARY CLUB
OF GREAT BRITAIN
Best Blue in Show: Lloyd le Page’s Clear
Cap Blue Hen
Kevin Skinner Trophy, Best Clear Cap
Blue: Lloyd le Page’s Clear Cap Blue Hen
Other winners: Best Novice and Second
Best Novice John Topping with a broken
Cap Blue and 2nd best with a Broken Cap
Blue Cock. The other special winners were
Best Broken Cap Blue D. Allen, Best Non
Cap Blue S. Bolton and best over-year K.
Barker.
THE LOVEBIRD (1990) SOCIETY
Best Lovebird, Best Adult Lovebird, Best
Normal Lovebird, Best Eyering Lovebird:
G. Steptoe’s Fischers Lovebird
Best Blackcheeked Lovebird, Best Rare
Lovebird: A King
Best Masked Lovebird: A. King
Best Peachfaced Lovebird and Best
Mutation Lovebird: A King’s Dilute Blue Series
THE IRISH FANCY INTERNATIONAL
Best Irish Champion in Show: D. Hadley
Best Champion: D. Hadley
Best Champion Unflighted: D. Hadley
Best Champion Flighted: J. Hodges
Best Novice: L. Kotkowicz
Best Unflighted: L. Kotkowicz
Novice Ladies Award: Best Novice
Flighted: Mrs L Gill
Best Junior Award: Master G. Loines
NORWICH CANARY CLUB
Best Norwich: K. Ferry’s Yellow Cock
2nd Best Norwich: K. Ferry
3rd Best: D. Hosking’s Flighted Buff
Variegated Cock
Best Green, Cinnamon or White Norwich:
S. Camilleri’s Green Flighted Yellow Hen
Best Novice: W. Scott
Best Junior: Miss L. Wright
BIRD SCENE 21

FIFE FANCY FEDERATION
Winners include:
Best Fife In Show: Smith & Evans
Best Champion In Show: Smith & Evans
Best Novice In Show: J. Roberts
Best Junior: A. Guy
Best Champion Clear: Smith & Evans
Best Champion Up To 10%: D. Weaver
Best Champion Variegated: A. Cooper
Best Champion H / Variegated:
Kendall Stud
Best Champion Self/Foul Green:
Kendall Stud
Best Champion Cinnamon: Clarke & Gillott
Best Champion White/Allied:
Clarke & Gillott
Best Novice Clear: C. Lowe
Novice Up To 10%: C. Lowe
Best Novice Variegated:
Dobbs & Mcguigan
Best Novice H / Variegated:
Dobbs & Mcguigan
Best Novice Self/Foul Green: J. Roberts
Best Novice Cinnamon: D. Fones
Best Novice White/Allied: M.Woodhall
WAXBILL CLASSES
Best Waxbill in Show: A. Chaney
Best Adult Waxbill: A. Chaney
2nd Best Adult Waxbill: Clarke & Jackson
Best CYOB Waxbill: Clarke & Jackson
2nd Best CYOB Waxbill: A Chaney
THE YORKSHIRE CANARY CLUB
Cinnamon buff hen shown by champion
exhibitor Simon Tammam which went on
to be joint runner-up in the choice of
Best Bird In Show. The best Novice
exhibit was Adrian Harris’s u/f variegated
yellow cock; Adrian picked up 5 of the
top 7 Novice awards, including Best White
AUSTRALIAN FINCH SOCIETY
Best Australian in Show: Grey Heck’s
Grassfinch by J. Harris.
Best Adult Australian: J Harris
2nd Best Australian in Show: D & H Harris
3rd Best Australian in Show: D.McDivitt
Best CYOB Australian in Show: J .Harris
2nd CYOB Australian in Show: P. Heard
3rd CYOB Australian in Show: P. Heard
Best Junior Adult Australian: A. Williams
LIZARD CANARY ASSOCIATION
Best in Show: D. Higgins’ Broken Cap Gold
hen.
Top champion, Top champion gold: A.
Williamson’s non-cap gold cock
Best champion silver: S Bolton’s clear cap
silver hen
Second best champion: T Horton’s clear
cap silver cock - best Novice silver
22 BIRD SCENE

CANARY COLOUR BREEDERS
ASSOCIATION
The Paul Luff and Paul Bright partnership
staged a mosaic red agate hen - this bird
won a number of special prizes before
being awarded the Best Melanin and then
Best Colour Canary awards.
FEATURE
INTERNATIONAL BORDER
BREEDERS ASSOCIATION
Best Border in Show Best Champion and
Best Current Year Bred and 7th Best
Border:
M. Barnett
2nd Best 3rd Best 4th Best and 6th Best
Border: Sillitoe & Rance
5th Best Border: Burton & Potts
Novice section
Gary Bishop took the first 4 places
5th Best: G Unwin
6th Best: Evans & Owen
7th Best: A Morris
Best Junior: Miss L White
THE JAVA SPARROW SOCIETY UK
Best Cream in Show: Hollaway & Oakley
Best Adult Cream: Hollaway & Oakley
Best CYOB Cream: S Downes
Best Pastel in Show: S. Downes
Best Adult Pastel: S. Downes
Best CYOB Pastel: S. Downes
Best Opal Isabel in Show: J. Jackson
Best Adult Opal Isabel: J. Jackson
Best Agate in Show: S. Downes
Best Adult Agate: S. Downes
Best A O C in Show: S. Downes
Best Adult A O C: S. Downes
Best Pair in Show: Clark & Jackson
Best Adult Pair: Clark & Jackson
Best CYOB Pair: J. Jackson
Best Junior Exhibit in Show: L. Owen
Best Junior Adult: L. Owen
THE LONDON FANCY CANARY CLUB
Best London Fancy: A. Early
Best Spangle Back: A. Early
THE ZEBRA FINCH SOCIETY
In the Champion section Peter Harrison
was dominant, taking all seven top places
in the Champion Adult line up. Winning
this section was a fine pair of Fawns
which went on to be judged the Best
Champion and Best Zebra in Show. In
second place was his pair of Lightbacks,
with another pair of Fawns occupying
third spot. In the Champion Breeder
section Peter took six of the top seven
positions with Nigel Smith taking fifth
spot with his Fawns.
Novice section [adults] won by C Hill’s
Chestnut Flanked Whites, 2nd C. Green’s
pair of Creams, 3rd S McCormick’s Pieds
BIRD SCENE 23

Novice Breeders - Best Novice M
Crowther’s pair of Fawns, followed by C.
Hill’s two pairs of CFWs, M. Shields’
Silvers, S McCormick’s Pieds, W Brown’s
Fawns and another pair of CFW’s from
Gareth Hollings.
Best Junior Adult: A Williams’ pair of
CFW’s, with second and third best being
benched by L McKintosh
Best Junior Zebras: The Chestnuts
Best Junior Breeder: L McKintosh’s pair of
Penguins
The biggest class of the Zebra Finch
section was provided by the Single birds,
which was won by Chris Hill.
Best of Colour awards went to: Normal
Grey, Fawn, Silver, Cream, Lightback,
Blackcheek/Blackface and Any Other
Standard Variety – Peter Harrison; Pied,
White – Shaun McCormick; CFW – Chris
Hill; Penguin – Dennis Webster; and
Blackbreasted/Orangebreasted – Huw
Davies
BENGALESE FINCH
Best In Show, Dilute Fawn & White:
P. Cook
Best Champion, Dilute Fawn & White:
P. Cook
Best Champion Adult, Fawn & White:
T.,M. & R. Edwards
2nd Best Champion Adult, Pink-Eyed White:
T., M. & R. Edwards
3rd Best Champion Adult, Chocolate & White:
T. M. & R. Edwards
4th Best Champion Adult,
Dilute Fawn & White:
W. Brown
5th Best Champion Adult,
Dilute Grey & White:
E. Murray
6th Best Champion Adult,
Chocolate & White:
J. Harris
7th Best Champion Adult,
Dilute Fawn & White:
T., M. & R. Edwards
Best Champion Breeder,
Dilute Fawn & White:
P. Cook
2nd Best Champion BBE,
Dilute Grey & White:
E. Murray
3rd Best Champion BBE,
Pink-Eyed White:
T., M. & R. Edwards
4th Best Champion BBE,
Dilute Fawn & White:
D. Smith
5th Best Champion BBE,
Dilute Grey & White:
E. Murray
6th Best Champion BBE,
Chocolate & White:
T., M. & R. Edwards
24 BIRD SCENE

FEATURE
7th Best Champion BBE,
Dilute Fawn & White:
T., M. & R. Edwards
Best Novice, Self Chestnut:
Green & Brown
Best Novice Adult,
Fawn & White:
F. Foy
2nd Best Novice Adult,
Self Chocolate:
M. Heard
Many thanks to the Parrot Society, Cage &
Aviary Birds, and to Clubs and exhibitors
for the information detailed above. The
complete list of the individual clubs
exhibiting: London Fancy Canary Club;
International Border Breeders
Association; Lizard Canary Association of
Great Britain; The Blue Lizard Canary
Club of Great Britain; National Bengalese
Fanciers Association; The Yorkshire
British Bird & Hybrid Club; Canary Colour
Breeders Association; South Cheshire
Budgerigar Society; The Zebra Finch
Society; The National Fife Fancy; The
Irish Fancy International; Gloster Fancy
Specialist Society; The Lovebird (1990)
Society; Norwich Canary Club; The Old
Varieties Canary Association; The
Australian Finch Society; The Java
Sparrow Society
BIRD SCENE 25

This was a new pairing for me put
together in an aviary shared with
a pair of Grey Backed Thrushes. There
were no problems until I noticed the
Mynahs taking live food into the nest box
– they had earlier laid two clear eggs and
I thought this was probably the end of
their breeding attempt for the year.
It was now apparent that they had
young, but it was only after ten days
that any calls for food were heard. With
two pairs of adult birds competing
for food it was obvious to me that the
Thrushes had to be removed before any
real trouble occurred. After they were
moved everything seemed to calm down.
I continued to feed mixed mealworms
and some wax worms at least three
times a day and twice a day I gave a
ration of small and/or medium crickets.
Something which should be mentioned
now is that both the cock and the hen
fed the young, usually entering the next
box at separate times. Rarely was the
cock seen to feed the hen at the nest
box entrance for her to then feed the
chicks.
BREEDIN
PAGODA
OR STAR
(TEMENUCHUS PAGODAR
ARTICLE BY: RAY HOLLAND
26 BIRD SCENE

FEATURE
G THE
MYNAH
LING
UM)
BIRD SCENE 27

After about three to four weeks the
young began to fledge. This was a very
exciting time for me – they were really
beautiful birds. At this stage I had no
idea how many chicks were in the box
as I had tried not to interfere too much.
The first chick left the nest followed by
the second three to four days later and
the third and final chick fledged after
a further two more days. I thought to
myself that this was great, the parents
are doing a fine job looking after their
family and all I had to do was to carry
on feeding and all would be well. Is
anything that simple and predictable in
bird breeding?
Shortly after the last chick fledged,
as little as an hour or so, the cock
bird set about the hen and I found
them on the aviary floor with the
back of the hen’s head badly pecked.
Unfortunately she did not survive this
attack – I could not believe what had
just happened. I kept asking myself
WHY? Looking back over the previous
weeks when they had been rearing
their young (perhaps even before)
there always seemed to be competition
between them for the live food. This
competition was heightened when
they had young in the nest box. There
were at least four feeding stations and
28
BIRD SCENE

FEATURE
they could always go and pick up crickets
off the floor. I still cannot understand
this behaviour – has anyone else
experienced this?
The cock bird has proven himself to be
an exemplary father and brought up all
three chicks by himself.
I thought that I might have to hand
rear the chicks but the pleading for food
by the chicks worked wonders and he
got on with it. All the chicks and their
father are now sharing a flight and there
seems to be no noticeable bickering –
though he will force them off the roof
of the nest box when they have the
audacity to perch on it.
All the chicks and their father
are now sharing a flight and
there seems to be no noticeable
bickering – though he will force
them off the roof of the nest box
when they have the audacity to
perch on it.
I decided that as the cock had proved
that he was willing to raise youngsters
on his own he was worth pairing to
a new hen. This, however, proved to
be a mistake because he attacked his
new wife. I can only assume that in his
desire to reproduce he did not consider
the hen which was obviously not in
condition when he made his advances.
He attacked her on the head just like
BIRD SCENE 29

FEATURE
his original wife and even a year and a
half after this attack, which fortunately
did not prove fatal you can still see the
point of attack as the feathers have not
fully re-grown. He found a new owner
who was prepared to give him another
chance even though I fully explained his
violent shortcomings.
As soon as the hen recovered I supplied
her with a new less aggressive cock and
during the 2013 season produced three
young in the first round, one of these
youngsters was picked on by the father
and when they were sexed by DNA they
were two hens and one cock so I guess it
was the young cock that was being
picked on by the father. Not content with
three young they then went on to breed
again and in this second round produced
one youngster. The nest boxes I use are
fairly deep and when I looked to see how
the baby was progressing I was
surprised to see that the parents had
been very busy almost filling the box
with pine needles gathered from the
floor of their flight, there were about 8
inches of these on top of the fledging
baby, I thought all was lost but as I
started to remove handfuls of the needles I
felt movement in the bottom of the box
which greatly surprised me the baby was
still alive! This has also been reared to
maturity and proved to be a hen. So for
2013 the results were three hens and
one cock. Results that I am very proud of
because 2013 is not going to go down as
the best breeding season UK breeders
has experienced!! Roll on 2014.
The nest boxes I use are fairly deep
and when I looked to see how the baby
was progressing I was surprised to see
that the parents had been very busy
almost filling the box with pine needles
gathered from the floor of their flight…
30
BIRD SCENE

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Page 12

32 BIRD SCENE
CAPE

FEATURE
The Cape Dove (Oena Capensis)
was a bird regularly imported from
its native Africa and very few
breeders considered the need to set up a
captive bred aviary strains whilst imports
were available to meet the demand, prices
were low and there seemed no real reason
to breed these delightful, colourful doves
as imports were quite readily available.
All that has now changed, unless
aviculturalists really work hard
to establish birds that were
previously imported in large
ARTICLE BY:
LES RANCE
numbers there will be none of them left in
aviculture in a few years time. It is now
imperative that all those breeders with
experience with domesticated or near
domesticated birds work hard to establish
DOVES
BIRD SCENE 33

breeding stocks of birds that previously
were readily imported. We all need to
select one species and try really hard
to establish them. About ten years
ago I kept Diamond Doves and bred a
few of them so to a small degree I did
have some knowledge of this family. I
have chosen the Cape Dove because
my good friend Jerry Fisher on the
south coast introduced them to me and
encouraged me to work on this species.
In the spring of 2007 Jerry supplied
me with 3 beautiful young unrelated
pairs that I kept in a brand new indoor
aviary 8’L x 3’W x 6’H.
Cape Doves are easily stressed when
transported to new homes and within
a few weeks I had lost all three hens
(why is it that it is always the hens
that die?) After this disaster there was
obviously no point in keeping the three
cocks so I returned them to Jerry, to
say the least this was not a good start!!
Jerry continued to persevere with his
Cape Doves but came to the conclusion
that they really needed to be in
outdoor flights rather than being bred
in cages and in June when the weather
was much warmer contacted me and
asked if I would like to have ‘another
go’, I thought that this was very brave
and I decided that I must try again and
34 BIRD SCENE

FEATURE
use one of my parakeet aviaries to see
what results could be achieved outside.
The day came when the two pairs
were due, as we live some 150 miles
apart I collected them mid-way in the
early evening, all four were in one
box and generally they were quiet
but when I hit a pothole in the road
they would crash about and become
thoroughly disturbed. Once home I
let them out into their outside aviary
as it was light until at least 9.30 p.m.
in June. Although built in a block
there is a large amount of privacy
as most of the walls are constructed
with 3/4” plywood but to provide
them additional seclusion I placed a 3’
container grown Conifer, a Vibernum
and six pots of runner beans to climb
up the former. To provide nesting sites
I screwed four wooden platforms 6”
x 6” with a half inch lip around the
edge, to the plywood wall. I had read
that they seem to like to use fine roots
as nesting material and fortunately
I had a pile of forest bark next to a
large hazel bush the roots of which
had permeated the bark pile, it was
therefore an easy exercise to pull up a
few roots and make nice nests for the
Doves. Evidently placing two pairs in
one aviary is generally not successful
as fighting frequently occurs but only
one of my pairs seemed interested in
breeding and possibly that was why I
had no difficulties in that regard.
My efforts were very quickly
rewarded as within two weeks one
of the pairs started to show interest
in each other and there was a fair
amount of mutual preening and sitting
close together, then I saw the hen on
one of the nests, progress appeared
promising! The first egg was laid on
21st July and the second the following
day, they were a rich cream colour
and I candled them after the hen had
sat for 5 days, they both showed that
the vein formation was developing
so I speedily returned them to the
nest. The first egg hatched on 4th
August and the second on 5th. I was
aware from the excellent book by
I.S. Dyer “Breeding the Cape Dove:
My Experience” that around eight
days of age can be a critical time
as the parents can stop feeding the
youngsters. On 12th August I was
delighted to see that my two precious
BIRD SCENE 35

babies were still doing well and
growing quickly, the first left the nest
on 20th August and the second the
next day. My aviary has a wire floor
‘overhang’ for the last 3’ of its length
and the two babies sat on this and the
mother joined them sitting very close
to keep them warm, the temperature
that morning was only 13C which for
an August day is rather cold. Jerry
Fisher warned me that it is sensible
to try to check that the babies are
drinking for themselves two breeders
have had this problem once the young
leave the nest. I took a shallow bowl of
water into the aviary and simply picked
up one of the babies, there was no
attempt from them to fly away, it drank
avidly once its beak was placed in
the water, once it had consumed all it
wanted I then put it down and picked
up the second baby and let that drink.
On 28th August I again caught my
two birds and checked them but they
appeared not to be thirsty. Although
I mentioned above that there was a
3’ overhang the total flight size is 10’
long, 7’6” sloping to 5’6” high and 3’
wide and 7’ of the roof is covered in
glass-fibre roof sheeting giving a very
sheltered and protected aviary.
Both young developed well and as
the days shortened and temperatures
dropped I carefully considered if I
should move all six birds into heated
indoor quarters for the winter. I would
“CAPE DOVES SEEM A LITTLE
UNADVENTUROUS AS FAR AS
FEEDING IS CONCERNED; THEIR
MAIN STAPLE IS WHITE MILLET.
DOVES DO NOT SHELL THEIR
SEED LIKE BUDGERIGARS; THEY
SWALLOW IT WHOLE AND GRIND
IT UP IN THE GIZZARD.”
have liked to leave them where they
were because they seemed very
settled and I know that they are easily
stressed when moved. I knew that
what to do would be a tough call but
decided to monitor them twice a day
and if the cold started to worry them I
would indeed move them into a heated
environment. The signs to look for are
that they will sit fluffed up, be inactive
and look generally miserable. In late
September these signs were all too
evident and I decided to move them
into a warmer and dryer environment.
Cape Doves seem a little
unadventurous as far as feeding is
concerned; their main staple is White
millet. Doves do not shell their seed
like Budgerigars; they swallow it
whole and grind it up in the gizzard.
This means there are no husks to
blow off the seed bowls. I provide
50/50 Budgie mix but I do not think
that they eat much of the canary
seed in the mixture, they will take
millet sprays but mine are not over
36 BIRD SCENE

FEATURE
BIRD SCENE 37

keen. Germinated smaller seeds are
generally ignored but I do provide
them with home made egg food which
is prepared for my parakeets, hard
boiling 2 eggs each morning and
mixing them (shells included) in a food
processor with 200 grams (1 large
cup) of Badminton Baked Cereal (used
as a conditioner by horse owners).
To this I am currently adding a level
tablespoon of Pet Chef, to this dry mix
I then add 1/2 a large cup of water,
this makes a nice crumbly feed (be
careful, do not add too much water or
you will get a wet horrible mix that
no birds will consume!) The 6 Cape
38 BIRD SCENE

FEATURE
“WITH ANY BIRD THAT IS
DIFFICULT TO BREED AND IT
APPEARS THAT CAPE DOVES FALL
FIRMLY IN THIS CATEGORY,
FOSTERING WITH A CLOSELY
RELATED SPECIES NEEDS
TO BE CONSIDERED.”
Doves received 1/2 a tablespoonful of
this mix each morning around 7.30
a.m. For those not familiar with Pet
Chef this is a supplement powder
designed to provide essential vitamins,
minerals, trace elements and amino
acids to ensure peak condition within
your stock; there are two formulas,
one for breeding stock which should
be provided 6 weeks before the start
of the breeding season and as long as
the season continues; and a general
purpose mix which has been designed
for the remainder of the year.
With any bird that is difficult to breed
and it appears that Cape Doves fall
firmly in this category, fostering with a
closely related species needs to be
considered.
I continued to use the outside
parakeet aviaries in 2008 and 2009 but
both these years were not particularly
good breeding seasons and I was
coming to the conclusion that to make
any real progress with this species I
needed some additional stock as I was
very determined to be successful with
Cape Doves, they are beautiful birds
but obviously need a suitable diet and
the correct housing. In 2010 I changed
tactics and provided them with a fairly
large and dry indoor aviary measuring
12’ long x 4’ wide and 7’ high, this had
a double glazed window which I wired
over and could open on warm sunny
“TO THIS I AM CURRENTLY ADDING
A LEVEL TABLESPOON OF PET CHEF,
TO THIS DRY MIX I THEN ADD 1/2
A LARGE CUP OF WATER, THIS
MAKES A NICE CRUMBLY FEED (BE
CAREFUL, DO NOT ADD TOO MUCH
WATER OR YOU WILL GET A WET
HORRIBLE MIX THAT NO BIRDS
WILL CONSUME!) ”
BIRD SCENE 39

FEATURE
days giving the doves access to fresh
air and direct sunlight, a facility that
met with their considerable approval.
During the year I did not lose any birds
and bred 3 hens and 5 cocks using the
colony system with all my stock in one
large flight.
Jerry Fisher feels that DIET is the key
to success; some of the supplements
I use are different to his. He uses
iodised minerals – a black powder that
pigeon breeders use with success.
His birds (except the group of cocks)
generally refuse his soft food mix -
the only birds to do so. Given that the
only seed they consume in quantity
is white millet he is wondering if we
can develop a base mix being mainly
white millet with some bonding agent
to integrate it with supplements. There
is no doubt that we need to broaden
the diet as much as we can and as we
do not know exactly what they eat
in the wild we can not imitate their
natural diet. I feed blue maw seed and
this they will eat so this gives some
change/addition to their diet. So far
“JERRY FISHER FEELS THAT DIET IS
THE KEY TO SUCCESS; SOME OF
THE SUPPLEMENTS I USE ARE
DIFFERENT TO HIS. HE USES
IODISED MINERALS – A BLACK
POWDER THAT PIGEON BREEDERS
USE WITH SUCCESS.”
“THERE IS NO DOUBT THAT WE
NEED TO BROADEN THE DIET AS
MUCH AS WE CAN AND AS WE
DO NOT KNOW EXACTLY WHAT
THEY EAT IN THE WILD WE CAN
NOT IMITATE THEIR NATURAL
DIET.”
the 2011 season seems to be
progressing well with 4 hens sitting on
8 eggs (2 is the normal sized clutch)
There is no doubt that Cape Doves
are very vulnerable and not easy to
breed, without concerted efforts they
may be lost to UK aviculture forever
or perhaps the opposite will happen
and we may be able to save them.
The Cape Dove is far from the only
bird to be in this position and the
next few years will be critical to the
existence of a number of birds that
were previously freely imported but
are now increasingly difficult to obtain
due to the lack of viable aviary strains.
I will certainly continue to work hard
to establish these birds in aviculture
and I will use all the relevant skills
that I have acquired over a number of
years with my parakeet collection, it
will not be a simple task but someone
has to do it!!
In the end I decided that I must
concentrate on my parakeet/parrot
collection and very reluctantly sold all
the Cape Doves.
40 BIRD SCENE

SALE DAYS
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SOCIETY
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One important area that beginners
need to pay careful attention to is
mice. These rodents are almost
impossible to keep out of aviaries and
bird rooms because when they are young
they are small and can squeeze through
the smallest of gaps either at ground
level or in through the roof. Traps must
be set and regularly checked also
remember to renew the bait at least once
a week. Do not use any cladding or have
cavities in your construction because this
is just where these little rodents love to
set up home, behind boards that give
them warmth and a feeling of great
safety because they know you cannot see
them! Mice have a distinct odour and
their urine carries salmonella which they
pass on to the seed you are feeding to
your precious stock when they feed from
the seed dishes. These are not nice
rodents and need to be kept at very low
levels both in your aviary and bird room.
I am certain that many enthusiastic
hobbyist bird keepers have been forced
out of the hobby by a failure to confront
these vermin at an early stage and then
been completely overwhelmed when their
numbers rocket to plague proportions,
you have been warned! (A full article on
mice prevention appears on page 6 of
this magazine)
Returning to my Budgerigars, all four
pairs went to nest fairly soon and the one
pair that selected the typical Budgerigar
nest box laid five eggs four of which were
“BUDGERIGARS ARE NORMALLY
FED ON A MIXTURE OF CANARY
SEED AND MIXED MILLETS,
THERE IS QUITE A LARGE RANGE
OF MIXTURES AND THE LEADING
SUPPLIERS WILL HAVE AT LEAST
8 VARIETIES, GENERALLY THE
MIXTURES WITH THE HIGHEST
PERCENTAGE OF CANARY SEED
WILL BE THE MOST EXPENSIVE.”
BUDGER
FOR BEG
42 BIRD SCENE

FEATURE
IGARS
INNERS
BY LES RANCE
PART
TWO
BIRD SCENE 43

fertile and produced three cobalt cocks
and a mauve hen before laying seven
eggs in their second round but
unfortunately only one egg was fertile,
when this hatched it was well looked
after by its parents. As the second
round was fairly easy for the parents
and they were looking very fit I decided
to let them have a third round. Again
the hen laid seven eggs and this time
five of them were fertile but there was
quite a size range amongst the babies,
however, the mother was now quite
experienced and managed to raise all
five babies.
Budgerigars feed their babies by
regurgitation and it is not uncommon to
have babies with a build up of dried
regurgitated seed around their beaks, face
and upper mandible, the food that builds
up in this latter area does give me
concern as it can stop the lower mandible
growing below the upper mandible
causing a condition known as ‘undershot
beak’. I use a sharpened match stick to
clean out the underside of the upper
mandible and solve this potential
problem. As Budgerigars are very tolerant
to nest box inspection I look at my
youngsters at least every other day to
44 BIRD SCENE

FEATURE
With regards to the results from the
other three pairs I am afraid that these
were not good. One hen died from egg
binding when she tried to pass an
overlarge egg. The other two pairs laid
but none of their eggs were fertile which
was rather unfortunate.
ensure that the young are developing
correctly, that the nest box is not
becoming too fouled with droppings and
that rings have stayed on the babies
little legs. To enable good record keeping
it is important to ring your young birds
with current year rings obtainable from
all ring suppliers, I use Avian ID in Truro,
Cornwall email info@avianid.co.uk
Tele 01209 212775. If you ring your
young Budgerigars you can exhibit them
in the current year bred classes at
exhibitions just to see how closely your
birds match the show standards for this
species.
Budgerigars are normally fed on a
mixture of canary seed and mixed millets,
there is quite a large range of mixtures
and the leading suppliers will have at
least 8 varieties, generally the mixtures
with the highest percentage of canary
seed will be the most expensive.
With regard to the experiment of
providing ordinary Budgerigar nest boxes
and parakeet style boxes the pair that
successfully bred used the ordinary box
and the other three hens selected the
parakeet boxes so at present it seems
that the ordinary box has produced the
best results even though only one of the
four pairs selected this style. The results
from very small scale ‘experiments’ are
always difficult to interpret but as I will
do the same next year and add the results
BIRD SCENE 45

FEATURE
to those achieved so far I should have a
larger set of statistics to work with at the
end of the following year.
This article has given me great pleasure
to write and I do hope that you have
enjoyed these words. I am far from an
experienced Budgerigar breeder but
perhaps that is why I have found it
relatively easy to write ‘Budgerigars for
Beginners’ as I have no strong allegiance
to any of the three types. Please do
consider either starting to keep these
highly entertaining and exceedingly
friendly birds. They are a good species to
start with or a great addition to an
existing collection especially if kept in an
outside aviary. Do ensure that they have
access to the inside if the weather turns
cold and wet. Remember to place a bench
close to the flight so that you can enjoy
their antics as you spend an hour or so
watching the Budgerigars.
46 BIRD SCENE

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BIRD SCENE 47

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