Alexandria-Eng

Alexandria
&the Mediterranean Sea

Alexandria
&the Mediterranean Sea
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Contents

6 | The White Med Sea
18| Alexandria
21| Undersea Alexandria
22| Pompey’s Pillar
29| Qaitbey
33| Abu Qir Wrecks
36| Bibliotheca Alexandrina
41| Alexandria National
Museum
43| Coptic Cathedral of St. Mark
44| St. Mena Monastery *
47| Roman Amphitheatre
48| Montazah Gardens
53| List of local tourist
information offices
54| Accommodation in
Alexandria
56| Rosetta
58|Alexandria Map
62| The North Coast & El-
Alamein
64| El-Alamein War Museum
66| Commonwealth Memorial
68| German Memorial
71|El-Alamein Map
74| Marsa Matrouh
77| Cleopatra’s Bath
78| Rommel’s Cave and Museum
80| Agiiba Beach
81|Marsa Matrouh Map
83| General White
Mediterranean Travel
Section
88| Your Journey
Continues in Egypt
92| Practical Info
24 Hours in Alexandria
P. 8
The Cleopatra Trail
P. 11
Shop Till You Drop
P. 12
Culture Vulture
P. 14
This Brochure’s Section Photos
P.2&4 Agiiba Beach, Marsa Matrouh
P.16 Stanley Bridge, Alexandria
p.60 Porto Marina, The North Coast
P. 72 Rommel’s Beach, Marsa Matrouh
p. 82 Mosaic at Shady Abdel-Salam’s Exhibit at
the Bibliotheca Alexandrina
*
WORLD HERITAGE SITE
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Alexandria
& The Mediterranean Sea
your next great experience
One of the great hidden secrets of Egypt is
Alexandria, the main city of the Mediterranean
Sea, situated between a strip of wonderful blue
skies and impeccable beaches. Nearby are the
picturesque sea towns of Rosetta and Marsa
Matrouh as well as some brand new resorts such
as Porto Marina and Almaza Bay.
What Alexandria offers most of all is the chance to
have a defining experience, one that you will take
away and always remember, a story you will want
to retell to all your friends and family.
Here there is culture, history, sea and the
attractions of a great and influential city. For those
seeking a holiday with huge variety from visiting
the greatest library in the world to exploring the
ancient Roman Catacombs to visiting the nearby
El-Alamein battlefields to snorkeling the beaches
of Marsa Matrouh this is the place to go.
Alexandria has its own weather perfect in summer
with sea breezes, cooler in winter. It has its own
people, influenced by the inflows and outflows
of all of humanity since the beginning of time.
It is Mediterranean to be sure, but it has its own
distinct and rather beautiful character. It is friendly,
welcoming and full of historical interest.
For those committed to seeing everything in Egypt,
it is possible to go in three hours by train to Cairo
or to drive there in a similar amount of time. Cairo
is a useful hub to reach other destinations in Egypt.
You can take the sleeper train to Luxor from Cairo
or a coach to the Sinai Peninsula. Alternatively, you
can fly from Alexandria airport to Luxor, Aswan
Did You Know?
The Mediterranean is called
in Arabic ‘the White Sea’ as
opposed to the ‘Red Sea’ on the
other end of the Suez Canal.
The Red Sea isn’t Red and the
White Sea isn’t White but the
names have stuck! Hence, of
course, the designation ‘White
Mediterranean”.
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and Sharm al Sheikh via Cairo.
Each can be reached in about
an hour by air. Road transfers
from other North Coast airports
to Alexandria and its airport are
easy.
THE NATURAL
ALTERNATIVE
There is little agriculture on
a mass scale on the northern
coast, and there are no major
industrial zones or polluting
factories and this is reflected in
the pristine bird and sea life.
The Mediterranean Sea is known
for its pristine water colours
5

JOURNEYS
Unforgettable experiences will
come through your personal
journey which could be an
intense 24 hour trip, a longer
visit, or something very simple,
something unique you do, see
or buy.
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24 HOURS IN ALEXANDRIA
Start with breakfast outside the Hotel Cecil, overlooking the
magnificent double harbour of Alexandria. Ride a double
decker bus to the Jewelry Museum and make sure you see the
ex-king’s diamond studded gardening tools. Keep going to take
in the excellent Mahmoud Said Modern Art Museum followed
by the Library of Alexandria. Whizz along the Corniche for a
top fish lunch at Abu Qir, and have coffee on the way back at
the stunning Salamak Hotel in Montazeh Bay. You should now
squeeze in a visit to the Catacombs and Pompey’s Pillar, before
doing some shopping at the antique buying area of Attareen. Take
in traditional music at the Opera house, and dinner at a
popular restaurant in Bahari.
The Jewelry Museum P39
Mahmoud Said Modern Art
Museum P40

24 HOURS IN
THE ANCIENT
WORLD
Breakfast at one of the cafés
near Pompey’s Pillar, then visit
the Roman Amphitheatre, and
Catacombs before heading out
to Abu Sir, the ancient
Roman site outside
Alexandria. You can
also take in St. Mena,
the Coptic Monastery
which stands some 40km away.
Head back to Alexandria for the
ruins at Canopus.
Pompey’s Pillar P22
The Catacombs P24
St. Mena P44
El-Agami P26
The North Coast P62
The War Museum P64
Agiiba P81
24 HOURS OF SUN, SEA
AND DESERT.
Beach breakfast at a Corniche café overlooking
the famous beaches of Alexandria. Then head
along to the historic beach of El-Agami before
turning inland to visit El-Alamein and see
the incredible battlefields and the moving
cemeteries of the Allied, German and Italian
soldiers. Take in the Museum of the Battle
then head towards Marsa Matrouh with
its fabulous azure seas. A bit further on you
should fit in a swim at Agiiba beach which is
said to be the finest on the North Coast.
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WRITERS AND ARTISTS
TRAIL
Alexandria has long been an inspiration to
writers and artists. Follow this trail to learn and
experience the lives of such eminent men as
E.M. Forster, Constantine Cavafy and Lawrence
Durrell. One of the great poets of the
20th century, Cavafy was Greek by
descent, Egyptian by adoption. Start
at Cavafy’s house on Sharm El-Sheikh
Street and amble towards the sea and the ancient
harbour, the source of much of their and their
fellow artists’ inspiration. Take in the modern art
museum, then aim for the Villa Ambron where
Durrell lived and wrote during World War II. His
masterpiece “The Alexandria Quartet” can be
used as a kind of guidebook; you can also use
the real guidebook (still being sold in Alexandria
and Cairo) written almost a hundred years ago by
E.M. Forster, the writer who gave us A Passage to
India and Howard’s End.
Cavafy’s house P39
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THE CLEOPATRA TRAIL
Cleopatra lived and died on the White Mediterranean, along
the way winning the hearts of two of the most powerful men
in the world: Julius Caesar and Mark Anthony. The last Queen
of Egypt, Cleopatra’s palace was in Alexandria, as was her
mausoleum. Her favourite place to visit was Paraetonium, the
old name for Marsa Matrouh. Here you may scout the ruins of
her villa, behind the old Governor’s palace. A short way along
the coast you may bathe in the rock cut baths where she and
Mark Anthony used to love to swim.
Marsa Matrouh P74
THE ALEXANDER TRAIL
The Alexander Trail follows the route of
Alexander the Great, starting at Pharos island
El-Nabi Daniel Mosque P51
Oracle temple P90
and ending in the Siwa oasis. Alexander the Great founded the
city of Alexandria because the island of Pharos was mentioned
by Homer as a place that Alexander’s hero, Hercules, visited.
Visit Pharos, now on a spit of land in the middle of Alexandria’s
harbour. Take in the supposed sites of Alexander’s tomb at El-
Nabi Daniel Mosque and Silsileh before taking a trip to Marsa
Matrouh, where he prepared himself to cross the desert to Siwa.
You may take a car or coach to Siwa and visit the Oracle temple
where he sought guidance. Make sure you have a question of
your own to ask!
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EXPERIENCES
SHOP TILL YOU DROP
Shopping is pure pleasure when you devote yourself to it
wholeheartedly, and with bargain prices and fabulous opportunities
the White Mediterranean provides great shopping experiences.
From the great San Stephano shopping mall and the Attareen
antiques area to the excellent Bedouin craft shops
of Marsa Matrouh, there are shopping experiences
available for all.
Marsa Matrouh P74
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FOOD GLORIOUS FOOD
Eating experiences make up a big part of any journey. Both the
strange and familiar foods available in Egypt will make for great
meals and great stories to tell. Egyptians love people who love
their food so make sure you ask for the recipe at any restaurant
where you really like what you have eaten. Often the chef will give
you a tour of his kitchen and maybe a small pot of his homemade
spices.
On the White Mediterranean you should try fish so fresh it will melt
on your palate, an utter delight. Try Calamari lightly
fried, Sea Bream and oven roasted Bass. Try the local
dishes of stuffed pigeon, the health giving Moloukheia
soup, and make sure you try Karkadeh or Hibiscus, a
delicious herbal tea proven to lower blood pressure.
There are fabulous restaurants in Rosetta, in Alexandria along
the Corniche, in Marsa Matrouh; and the beach resorts also offer
great dining of traditional and international food.
Rosetta P56
THE NATURAL WORLD
For those intent on a natural Mediterranean experience, there are
opportunities here not to be missed. At the Al-Omeyed nature
reserve, not far west of Alexandria you may savour the sight of
a rare gazelle or a desert fox. Or, for the birdwatcher, observe
through waving reeds at dawn, the graceful Grebes and Bitterns
on Lake Mariut, south of Alexandria.
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A NIGHT TO
REMEMBER
Taking home a memory of a
‘great night out’ is a wonderful
part of any holiday. In
Alexandria, a 24 hour city, you
may be sure to find all you need
for a night to remember. Try the
nightclubs for belly dancing
once you have circulated
through the many restaurants
and bars in the waterside areas
of Alexandria.
CULTURE VULTURE
Going to a museum should not be a chore, it should
be a delight. Luckily in Alexandria and elsewhere
on the White Med. coast there are museums that are
not too overcrowded allowing you the freedom to
enjoy yourself to the full. Visit the Jewelry Museum in
Alexandria and get ideas for a new ring you can have
made for you in the silversmith quarter of town. Take
in the art museum for a brand new take on modern
Egyptian life. Visit the Bibliotheca and marvel at the
power of the written word.
The Bibliotheca P36
The Jewelry Museum P39
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HISTORY LESSON
History began in Egypt you
might say. When the world’s first
historian, Herodotus, arrived, the
place was already considered an
historical goldmine. You can’t
avoid history in Egypt so make the
most of it and enjoy it to the full.
You will have heard, perhaps, of
the Rosetta Stone that decoded
the Ancient Egyptian language;
now search for the spot outside
the walls of Fort Qaitbey in
Rosetta where it was found. In
Alexandria stroll at your leisure
around the Roman Amphitheatre
and Pompey’s Pillar. Close your
eyes in the Catacombs and
feel the weight of centuries
all around you. On the site of
the old lighthouse look for the
original stones.
Pompey’s Pillar P22
Roman Amphitheatre P47
Fort Qaitbey in Rosetta P56
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Alexandria
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Alexandria
“Alexandria is a jewel of manifest brilliance, and a
virgin decked with glittering ornaments. She lights
up the west with her glory; she combines beauties
of the most diverse description, because of her
situation between Orient and Occident. There is
every wonder displayed for all to see, and there all
rare things arrive.”
So wrote the leading Arab traveler of all time, Ibn
Battuta, in the 14th century, the question is how has it
changed? For a start, one thing that can never change
is the unique position of Alexandria as gateway to
the East and the West. Situated to the left of the Nile
Delta, it has received influences from Africa, from the
Far East via the Suez Canal and from Europe which
is only short journey across the Mediterranean Sea.
Founded by Alexander the Great in 331BC,
Alexandria was not a natural harbour but was made
one by joining the island of Pharos with the mainland
to make a double bay perfect for sheltering from any
storms the Mediterranean could throw at the city.
Alexander wanted it to be a ‘megalopolis’, a model
city larger than any then known. The streets were
30m wide unheard of in that time, and the walls of
the city extended 15km truly a marvel.
When Alexander died his successor and childhood
friend Ptolemy eventually settled on Alexandria
as the capital of the Greek Empire. And from this
moment onwards the city became famed throughout
the known world.
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Beautiful turquoise colours of the
Mediterranean Sea
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BIRTH OF THE
COPTIC CHURCH
Christianity arrived very early in
Egypt with St Mark, the Apostle.
Quickly it spread throughout
Alexandria, where he landed,
and into Egypt though the ruling
Roman empire was strongly
opposed to this new religion.
Many, also, in protest against
the overt materialism of the rich
Roman elite, took to the deserts
south of Alexandria to become
monks and mystics. These
‘desert fathers’ eventually formed
communities which became
the foundation for monastic
Christianity the world over.
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St. Mena Monastery
UNDERSEA
ALEXANDRIA
One cannot escape Cleopatra on
the White Mediterranean, and
under the waters of the harbour
of Alexandria probably lies the
palace which is her final resting
place. Since 1996, marine
treasure hunter Franck Goddio
has been surveying the sea bed
five metres down in the Eastern
harbour of Alexandria. He has
found extensive submerged
ruins, including granite columns,
votive statues, sphinxes, pottery,
and an entire stone jetty from
the Ancient Royal Quarters
of Alexandria. He has found
inscriptions suggesting that
Cleopatra’s palace was on the
island of Antirrhodos which sank
during some huge earthquakes
and an accompanying tsunami
around 1600 years ago, and
now can be seen under the
sea in Alexandria. Goddio also
extended his search to the bay of
Abu Qir, where he found French
wrecks mentioned later, but
also, closer in, the ruined city
of Herakleion, submerged for
1300 years. It is possible to dive
this fascinating site along with
the other underwater marvels of
Alexandria.
Tip
If you want to go diving on
holiday buy your own face
mask but rent the rest of the
gear from the dive centre.
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Staircase leads to the subterranean
galleries at Pompey’s Pillar site
POMPEY’S PILLAR
Arguably the most famous
landmark in the touristic
topography of Alexandria,
Pompey’s Pillar soars 25 metres
above the limestone ridge on
which it stands; beneath it and all
around lie partially excavated pits
as well as a reasonable garden.
Not that Pompey had anything
to do with it. The red granite
column, made from sturdy Aswan
rock, was probably raised in
honour of the Roman Emperor
Diocletian who threatened, in
startling fashion, to slaughter
the local population “until their
blood reached his horse’s knees”.
Legend has it that he desisted in
this murderous ambition when
this same horse slipped on a
paving slab and bloodied its
knee!
Amoud al-Sawari St. Kom
el-Shoqafa area (Karmouz)
03/ 486 5800
9am-4:30pm
31°10’56.71” N
29°53’49.31” E
One of Alexandria’s
recovered undersea
treasures
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Pompey’s Pillar
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CATACOMBS OF KOM EL-SHOQAFA
No visit to Pompey’s Pillar is complete without going five minutes
around the corner to the famed Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa.
Donkeys rank with archeologists in making discoveries in Egypt both
the Golden Mummies of Bahariya and these Catacombs were found
by donkeys falling through holes in the ground. In this case the donkey
discovered the largest Roman burial site in Egypt, and a truly strange
and very striking one it is, with its own weird atmosphere redolent of
a different, more colourful age. Built 35 metres down into solid rock
once must tread carefully in descent following a spiral stairway (well
lit) past a shaft whose original purpose was a kind of dumb waiter for
corpses being lowered to their final resting place. Through a tightish
squeeze one emerges into the striking Hall of Caracalla, the Roman
Emperor who massacred a large number of Alexandrian youths. Some
of them perhaps were laid to rest in the Catacombs, guarded by murals
that depict two terrific bearded serpents. Surrounding the central tomb
is a broad passage lined with cavities in two rows with room for over
300 mummies.
Al-Nasseriyya St., Kom el-Shoqaf area
03/ 486 5800
9am-4:30pm
31°10’45.29” N
29°53’35.26” E
Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa
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Tip
When viewing ancient
catacombs and tombs carry
your own head torch or pen
light it makes looking at
inscriptions easier and it beats
trying to use the light from a
mobile phone!
Burial
Chambers
Rotunda
Exedrae
Triclinium
Ambulatory
Shaft
Statue that
meets you at
the entrance of
the Catacombs
Catacombs of kom
el-shoqafa
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EL-AGAMI
El-Agami was the first of the
great resorts on the outskirts of
Alexandria, and today, despite
extensive building, there are
still marvelous villas in exquisite
gardens tucked away behind
high and elegantly tonsured
hedges. El-Agami was originally
an area of wonderful fig groves,
many sadly gone as the high rise
buildings encroach, but on a fine
day one can still hear the wind
in the leaves of the fig trees left
standing and imagine oneself
in a louche film of 1940s Egypt.
Not for nothing is the central
shopping strip here called the
Champs Elysees.
Tip
In El-Agami you will see
calamari fishermen catching
squid. They then walk the
beach with a bucket of the
freshest offering it for sale. You
can buy this and have a local
restaurant cook it up for you.
Tip
When ordering fish some of the
best local dishes are made from
larger single fish like mullet and
bass. Go early and chose one
big fish for your group and all
share in the feast.
Stunning white beaches along the Mediterranean Sea
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Fish restaurants
Eating fish is what Alexandria is all
about when it comes to culinary
experiences of the highest
order. There are many excellent
restaurants varying from the
humble shops down at Abu Qir,
further on from Montazah gardens
and a possible extension of a visit
there, to the more prestigious
places nearer the centre of town.
All are good if the fish is fresh, and
it is very easy to check, as many
allow you to chose what fish you
want from a raked bed of ice and
herbs or even from a tank.
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Fort Qaitbey

SITE OF THE PHAROS ON
QAITBEY
Qaitbey is a mini citadel-like place that looks over
the Eastern harbour as Ras el-Tin looks over the
Western. Built in the 1480s, it occupies the site,
and contains stone from, that former wonder of the
world: The Pharos, or Lighthouse of Alexandria.
One of the original seven wonders of the ancient
world (the only surviving one is the Pyramid of
Cheops), it stood an incredible 135 metres high
and lasted 17 centuries. If Alexandria is known
for anything in the world it is for this incredible
structure. Myths surround the Pharos. As well as
being a normal lighthouse, with a double spiral
staircase up and down which plodded donkeys
day and night carrying loads of timber to fuel its
light, it was also rumoured to house a special
reflecting mirror that not only reflected the sun’s
rays as a warning flash or even messaging system
but also could actually burn through the rigging of
an attacking ship. The rumours extended to there
being treasure in its base. This was dug up, partially,
after the first Arab invasion in the 7th century, and
this hastened the decline of the venerable Pharos.
It is thought that Alexander, when he arrived, spoke
of the need for a guiding light at the entrance to the
harbour. They were not unknown in those days, but
none achieved the grandeur of the Pharos, before
or since. The cylindrical top tower contained the
mighty lantern, visible it is said from 56km away.
Eastern Harbour, El-Anfoushi area
03/480 9144
9am-4:30pm
31°12’47.40” N
29°53’05.80” E
The Maritime
Museum near Qaitbey
27

Qaitbey
Did you Know?
Not only is there a nice naval
museum in Fort Qaitbey, there is
also a marine biology museum
with displays and exhibits about
fish and animals found in the
area.
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Qaitbey’s Entrance
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TAPOSIRIS MAGNA. ROMAN CITY
Thirty or so kilometres beyond the El-Agami end of Alexandria, you
arrive at Abu Sir, the site of the ancient city of Taposiris, founded
around the same time as Alexandria.
Taposiris is mainly known, however, for having the last surviving lighthouse
in a chain that stretched from Alexandria to Libya. This one is
one tenth the size of the mighty Pharos, but built in the same style and
the same proportions with a square base and octagonal tower, giving
archeologists vital clues about that deceased wonder of the world.
Outside, on the side where part of the octagon has fallen, you can see
the placements for the supports of the winding staircase up which the
ever necessary fuel was carried.
Borg el-Arab
30°56’44.89” N
29°30’41.83” E
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Some of Mediterranean Sea Food
ABU QIR WRECKS
Abu Qir is out past the main
part of Alexandria to the east,
past the Montazah beach area.
It where you can find excellent
fish restaurants, as this still
has a tradition of such things
dating from its time as a former
fishing village. But Abu Qir is
also known as the site of one
of the most famous sea battles
in history, the confrontation
between Nelson and the forces
of Napoleon’s French fleet.
Nelson won, and so the British
broke the French hold on Egypt,
leaving it to Mohamed Ali to
take over a few years later. The
French lost eleven ships and the
British two. Franck Goddio, that
ubiquitous undersea explorer of
Alexandria, found the French
flagship L’Orient, 8km offshore
in 11 metres of water. They also
discovered the Serieuse and the
Artemise.
Abu Qir
31°18’52.80” N
30°02’57.16” E
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This scene depicts athletic life in
Alexandria which brought together
different cultures during the first three
centuries B.C.
THE ANCIENT
LIBRARY OF
ALEXANDRIA
The most famous thing about
Alexandria after the Pharos
lighthouse was the ancient
library, which was built on the
advice of Ptolemy I’s counselor
Demetrius, beside the Mouseion,
or research institute, in the middle
of the city. No trace of it remains
as it was burnt down in 293AD.
Long before that however it had
lost almost all its volumes through
theft and decay, predominantly
theft. Like all libraries, it seems,
the one in Alexandria was subject
to criminal intent, though on a
vast scale over the years. This
somewhat softens the blow of the
final destruction of the place. In
its heyday, in the mid 1st century
BC, the library held over 528,000
documents. By law any ship
passing through had to allow any
texts to be copied at the library if
they didn’t already have a copy.
Christian mobs destroyed both
the main library and, later, the
smaller ‘daughter’ library in 391
AD. Medieval Europeans later
ascribed its destruction, entirely
falsely, to the Arab conqueror
Amr. In fact it was the Arabs who
were the first in medieval times to
translate Greek works which then
entered Europe via Spain.
Tip
When walking through ancient
Alexandria look at the walls of
later period stone buildings, you
may spot building blocks that
originated in ancient Egyptian
works.
32

Fragment of a mosaic floor found on the
site of the old library
33

BIBLIOTHECA
ALEXANDRINA
Nestling a short distance from
the seafront is the new library
of Alexandria. No trip along the
Corniche of modern Alexandria
can be called complete without
a visit to the new library, which
rivals its predecessor in one way:
it is the largest reading space in
the world even if it does not house
the largest number of volumes in
a single space, though one might
argue that privilege now belongs
to cyberspace. The new library
symbolizes the renaissance of
Alexandria as a Mediterranean
megalopolis; it was approved
in 1987 and opened in 2002.
The building, with its futuristic
disc like structure, is covered in
34

Rooftop of the Bibliotheca
35

scripts and letters from almost
all the languages of the world,
a fitting exterior for a place that
epitomizes world culture in the
form of the written word.
The Colossus of Ptolemy II
which was recovered from the
Eastern harbour watches over the
entrance and provides an instant
reminder of the connection with
the ancient library. There are
several permanent exhibitions
including the Impressions of
Alexandria and the intriguing
Antiquities Museum in the
basement. On the main entrance
level is the Manuscripts Museum
with a display of ancient
scrolls and antique books. The
Planetarium rounds off a truly
memorable visit, inside the scifi
spherical centre there are
incredibly realistic shows such
as Cosmic Voyage, Human Body
and Oasis in Space.
Corniche al-Bahr, Shatby
03/483 9999
11am-7pm, Fri 3pm-7pm.
www.bibalex.org
31°12’31.05” N
29°54’31.49” E
Did you Know?
The Bibliotheca has chairs for
2000 readers, will eventually
house 8 million books and
covers an area of 36,770 square
metres.
A museum inside
the Bibliotheca
Bibliotheca Reading Hall
36

ROYAL JEWELRY MUSEUM
This marvelously excessive display is housed in a similarly
extravagant villa owned by first ruler of modern Egypt Mohamed
Ali’s granddaughter Princess Fatima el-Zaharaa. On display are King
Farouk’s gold chess set, Mohamed Ali’s diamond encrusted snuff
box, a platinum crown set with 2159 brilliantly cut diamonds, and
even a set of royal gardening tools inlaid with yet more diamonds.
The lower galleries in the mansion display stained glass cameos
of courtly love set in idealized 18th century France. Even the
bathrooms are exotic, the ladies’ has tiled murals of nymphs bathing
while the men’s has scenes of fishermen from the south of France.
The museum is to be found in Ahmed Yehiya Street and is well
worth visiting.
27 Ahmed Yehiya Pasha St., Zizinia
03/586 8348,03/5828348
9am-2pm/5pm-6:30pm winter and 9am-2pm/5pm-8:30pm summer
31°14’26.50” N
29°57’47.57” E
CAVAFY’S HOUSE
Not so far from the Opera House and just north of the Roman
Amphitheatre you will find the museum dedicated to the poet
Constantine Cavafy. It is actually located in his old house on Rue
Lepsius (also known as Sharm el-Sheikh Street) and was opened in
1992 to answer the great demand for something commemorating
this artistic scion of the city. The house is large by modern standards,
with fine high ceilings that must have been cool in summer. The
furniture is all of the period though not much of it belonged to the
poet apart from the brass bed, icons and modest desk where he
worked. Of particular interest is the ‘bindery’ where he produced
his own pamphlets of poetry. A selection of his books makes for an
interesting insight into the man.
4 Sharm el-Sheikh St., Misr Station
03/4821598
10am-3pm Sun - Thu 10am-5pm. closed Mon.
31°11’51.46” N
29°54’04.30” E
37

MAHMOUD SAID MUSEUM
Just down from the Corniche near to the Jewelry Museum, on
Mohammed Said Pasha Street, there is a wonderful little surprise for
the visitor the Mahmoud Said Museum. Said (1897-1964) was a judge
whose real affection was for painting. Though a winner, indeed, the first
winner of the state prize for art, he professed an uneasy relationship
with the requirement to paint official commemorative pictures such as
the gigantic Inaugural Ceremony of the Suez Canal which dominates
the entrance wall of the museum. He much preferred portraits of a more
intimate nature: intense provocative women depicted in The Siren of
Alexandria and Egyptian Peasant woman for example. There are several
other excellent artists represented such as the expressionist Seif (1906-
1979) who delighted in depicting casinos, nightlife, horse racing and
motor sports. He was genuinely prolific producing over 3000 paintings
and a staggering 80,000 sketches. Other artists include Adham Wanly,
Myriam Alim, and even the odd abstract by Farouk Hosni.
6 Mohammad Said Pasha St., Gianaclis area
03/581 6688
10am-6pm, closed Mon
31°13’39.68” N 29°58’10.25” E
Mahmoud Said Museum
Tip
If you read the ancient geographer Strabo (64BC-25AD) he has several clues
about the whereabouts of Alexander’s Tomb which he actually saw.
38

ALEXANDRIA NATIONAL MUSEUM
Somewhat south of the new library, on the corner of Midan
Khartoum, past an interesting section of the old city walls stratified
to show their constituent parts, you will find the Alexandria National
Museum. It contains some of the extraordinary archeological finds
that have turned up in the last fifteen years or so. There is an effigy
of Emperor Caracalla (the one who killed all those Alexandrian
youths); he is wearing Pharaonic headgear. There is also a mosaic
of Medusa which was found beneath the popular Cinema Diana.
Upstairs in the museum are Coptic and Islamic artifacts including
gold coins of great interest and a nice display of Mamluk weaponry.
The bookshop has an impressive art and history section.
110 Horeyya Ave.
03/483 5519
9am-4:30pm
31°12’03.13” N
29°54’47.51” E
One of King Mohamed Ali’s glass jugs
Alexandria National
Museum houses some
unique collections
39

GRECO-ROMAN MUSEUM
Look out from Cavafy’s house for the Greco-Roman Museum,
a place the poet would have approved of greatly, since, for him,
the history of Alexandria ended in 1493 with the fall of Byzantine
rule in Constantinople. Here you will find Egypt’s best collection
of antiquities from the Classical period. There are late human and
crocodilian mummies from 100-250AD, death masks and busts of
Roman Emperors, including Julius Caesar. There is, in the gardens,
a rather large and fine head of Mark Anthony (Queen Cleopatra’s
lover), as well as some rock cut tombs on display.
5 Al-Mathaf al-Romani St.
03/487 6434
9-4 pm
31°11’57.35” N
24°54’24.34” E
Statue of Augustus Octavius
40

COPTIC CATHEDRAL OF ST. MARK
Several blocks down from the seafront lies the Coptic Cathedral.
It looks Byzantine but in fact is an early 20th century facsimile.
Remains of early patriarchs of the Alexandrian Church are interred
in a chapel within the building. It seems you can never escape the
founder of this city.
19 Keneiset el-Aqbat St., Raml Station
03/ 486 7103
31°11’54.43” N
29°53’58.70” E
Did you Know?
The Cathedral was named after the Apostle Mark who was seized while
he was giving Mass; his body was then dragged through all the streets of
Alexandria behind three wild yoked stallions. What remained of him was
kept until 828AD when, in a further assault on ecumenical dignity, his
body was smuggled to the Basilica di San Marco in a barrel of salt pork;
though his head was left in the Mar Girgis Church in Cairo. In 1997 this
strange story continued when one of Mark’s fingers was returned to Pope
Shenouda III by Pope John Paul II. One bizarre theory has it that instead
it was not Mark that was smuggled out but Alexander the Great’s remains.
Interior of St. Mark’s Cathedral
41

St. Mena Interior Dome
ST. MENA
MONASTERY
The Coptic monastery of St. Mena
is 40km inland from Abu Sir. It
honours St. Mena, an Egyptian
born Roman Legionnaire who was
martyred in Turkey for refusing to
renounce his religion. Buried here,
his grave was exhumed in 350
after many miraculous events had
been reported around the spot. A
church was built that became a
pilgrimage stop. Word was spread
by passing camel trains and it
became famous. Holy water from
local springs was exported as far
as Gaul and Roman Britain. These
however dried up leaving behind
just a tiny population of monks to
live here, as they still do.
The modern monastery was built
WORLD HERITAGE SITE
in 1959 of marble and Aswan
granite, the same stone used
in many Pharaonic edifices.
Fragments of mosaic studded
with semi-precious stones, basalt
columns and paved areas that
still remain in the ancient basilica
show how rich and ornate the
original church must have been.
Deir Mar Mena, Borg el-Arab
03/ 459 3401
30°51’12.66” N
29°39’41.20”E
Tip
When you ask for St. Mena in
Egypt you may have to call it
either Mar Mena or Abu Mena
which are its common names in
Arabic.
42

St. Mena Monastery
43

44
Roman Amphitheatre

ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE
If you stroll north a few blocks from the main railway station you
will find Kom el-Dikka, which literally means the ‘pile of rubble’ and
was, for centuries, a slum area with an old cemetery of little interest
until 1959 when a team of Poles looking for the ever elusive Tomb of
Alexander stumbled upon an 800 seat Roman amphitheatre. Marble
seats bear the graffiti of chariot team supporters during races in
Byzantine times; there are also two forecourts with mosaic flooring.
In earlier Ptolemaic times the area was known as the ‘Park of Pan’,
a hilly pleasure garden for use by the aristocrats of Alexandria on
particular holidays.
Youssef St., off Gomhuriya Sq., Kom el-Dikka
03/390 2904
9am-4:30pm
31°11’39.53” N
29°54’14.49” E
Did you Know?
Next to the Amphitheatre is the finest example of a Roman villa in
Alexandria, it is called the Villa of the Birds after its charming bird mosaics.
Mosaic Floor at the Villa of the Birds
45

MONTAZAH
PALACE AND
GARDENS
Zooming east along the Corniche
waterfront you will find the
fantastic beaches and park of
Montazah Gardens. There are
places to walk surrounded by
greenery, the old Salamlek hotel
in all its splendour, a great shore
line and chalets for the well to
do.
There is also a former Royal palace
here, known as the Haramlik
Palace, which was commissioned
by King Fouad and designed by
Ernesto Verruchi Bey. In World
War I E.M.Forster worked here
when it was a Red Cross hospital.
It is now a presidential residence
and guesthouse.
Montazah St.,
03/547 3056-03/5477153
24/7
31°16’54.71” N
30°00’46.44” E
Salamlek Hotel
46

Montazah Gardens
47

Islamic Architecture in Abu el-Abbas
El-Morsi Mosque
48

ABU EL-ABBAS EL-MORSI MOSQUE
This is one of the most stunning mosques in Alexandria built very
close to the sea near to the Qaitbey Fort. Dominating the square of
Abu el-Abbas is the vast white mosque of the same name. The tomb
of the Andulusian Sufi Sheikh Abu el-Abbas el-Morsi is dedicated to
sailors and fishermen, for whom he has become a patron saint. He
died in 1288 and his remains lie under a low dome; the other side of
the mosque has a brick entrance of some antiquity.
EL-NABI DANIEL MOSQUE
Located in the central downtown area, near to the Roman Amphitheatre,
this mosque was founded in the 15th century, though its present form
dates from the early 19th century when it was completely rebuilt during
the time of Mohamed Ali (1805-1848). The rebuilding coincided with
the interment of the Sufi Sheikh Sidi Lokman.
El-Nabi Daniel St., Saad Zaghloul Sq.,
Mosque Compound Sq., Bahari
03/4801251
31°12’21.76” N
29°52’58.23” E
Tip
Women can’t enter Abu Elabbas
el-Morsi mosque itself but
they can visit the mausoleum
and view the mosque’s interior
from behind a barrier.
Did you Know?
In 1850 Ambrose Schilizzi made up a fine story about seeing Alexander
the Great’s crystal sarcophagus and mummy beneath this mosque. This
yarn was written up by Mahmoud Bey al –Falaki and has persisted to this
day and gathered such momentum that the Antiquities Council did some
digging here in the 1990s. Nothing was found that indicated Alexander
was buried here.
49

SHOPPING
Alexandria, as befits a world class international city, boasts a
complete selection of international and local shopping experiences.
From the giant City Centre hypermarket and the San Stephano Mall
to the tiniest kiosk selling local Bedouin handicrafts, there is no
shortage of places to buy what you need. For the antique collector,
the Attareen area is definitely worth a visit with its myriad little shops
full of old curios and treasures from bygone times.
Alexandria City Centre shopping mall
ENTERTAINMENT
Alexandria is replete with places of fine entertainment: hotels, nightclubs,
casinos, discos and bars together with several cinemas all
showing English language movies in the original language. There are
concerts and ballets performed at the Opera House. The Alexandria
Centre of Arts has an impressive blue and gold auditorium where
world class musicians often appear. There is an international film
festival in September. Nightclubs offer belly dancing from the expert
practitioner to the comedic exponent of the art. There is folk dancing
provided by the Ballet Rida and the new library has a program of
music concerts. The Alexandria Centre of the Arts provides regular
concerts too.
50

LIST OF LOCAL TOURIST
INFORMATION OFFICES
Alexandria Head office:
03/485 1556
23 East Port
Saad Zaghlool Sq. Raml Station
Tip
Bedouin jewelry from
Siwa Oasis often ends up
in Alexandria look out for
beautiful pieces and great
bargains.
Tip
Coffee shops and hotel lobbies
will have a rack of English
language or bilingual ‘what’s
on’ magazines and guides.
From these you will get a better
picture of the current plays and
films on offer.
Alexandria Opera House
Misr Station:
Misr Station
Inside the station building, on
platform n°1
Sidi Gaber Station:
On platform n°4, inside Sidi
Gaber Station
Alexandria port:
Inside the port
Marsa Matrouh
Alexandria Road, the
Governorate’s building
51

ACCOMMODATION IN ALEXANDRIA
Alexandria is blessed with a fantastic selection of hotels, many of
them on the waterfront within sight and sound of the sea. There
are places that range from budget to super luxury including some
historically interesting hotels such as the Salamlek, the Windsor
Palace and the Cecil.
The Cecil is the hotel that Winston Churchill stayed in when he visited
during the war, as did such other luminaries as Somerset Maugham
and Agatha Christie. Though the management has naturally changed
since then, the sea views remain excellent and an excursion into the
lobby may well bring some nostalgia for that past life of imperial
grandeur. Bang on the Corniche, the Cecil is more than a hotel, it is
a landmark.
The Salemlek is a former royal hunting lodge built by Khedive Abbas
II next to the presidential residence in Montazah, a fantastic park
setting. It still has rooms furnished in an opulent Belle Epoque style
as well as the only hotel casino in town.
The Windsor Palace is another great institution of Alexandria. It sits
grandly on the Corniche in the same location now for over a hundred
years. It has wonderful old, now restored, elevators, a grand lobby
and rooms decorated in the Edwardian style.
Cecil Hotel
52

CONNECTIONS AND TRAVEL TO AND
FROM ALEXANDRIA
Within Alexandria there are the usual taxis and microbuses of any
Egyptian town. The cost of a bus is very low. There are also trams,
which offer a fun alternative to buses. Taxis are frequent and most
places can be reached for a very reasonable fee that you can agree
before traveling.
There is a fast train service every hour or so to and from Cairo and
this is maybe one of the more relaxing ways to visit Alexandria. You
can head down to the Siwa oasis via Marsa Matrouh which is a
wonderful excursion and takes only five or six hours by car. To get
to Sinai you can drive via Port Said or Suez. Alexandria’s El-Nozha
Airport connects to all domestic places of interest such as Luxor,
Aswan, Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh via a short stop at Cairo
International Airport.
Alexandria tram
53

Rosetta
A DAY TRIP TO ROSETTA
Rosetta, or Rashid, lies at the current westernmost arm of the Nile
delta. It is surrounded by wonderful groves of Orange and Lemon
trees, a clean town with old Ottoman mansions along its streets. To
the modern visitor, it’s name means most of course in connection
with the Rosetta stone, found here and later of such use in translating
hieroglyphs in their entirety.
THE FORT OF QAITBEY IN ROSETTA
With the same name as the sea fort in Alexandria, this fort was built to
guard the Rosetta branch of the Nile against the constant menace of
the ‘Frankish’ crusaders. Later, Qaitbey Fort was used by the French.
It was here, of course, where the Rosetta stone was discovered. It was
entirely restored in the 1980s.
Hieroglyphic inscriptions in some of
the Fort’s steps
54

DELTA STYLE MILL HOUSE
The Abu Shahin House has been returned to its original use as a mill
house. Many such mills existed in the 18th and 19th centuries when
Rosetta was the leading port until Alexandria overtook it. Look out
for the huge wooden grinders and delicate pointed CYPRUS arches.
EUROPE
M e d
i t e r
r a
n e a n
S e a
Did You Know?
Rosetta is connected to the rest of the White Med through the International
Coastal Road
ASIA
EGYPT
AFRICA
Sallum
Qara Oasis
wa Oasis
AMON TEMPLE
iwa Gabal El Mawta
Cleopatra
Gabal Bath
El Dakrur
Areg
e Great
and Sea
Sidi Barani
HAMMAM AZOUZ
OF SAQQARA Memphis
Ras Sidr
Taba
Qaroun
SinaiHeights
PORTO
Lake
EL SUKHNA SERABIT
The Hammam Azouz is one Fayoum of the ever El Fayoum dwindling number of bath
EL KHADIM
Oasis
Za’farana
Abu
Beni Suef
houses built in the 18th and 19th century ST but ANTHONY’S
ST CATHERINE’S
now either Rudeisdestroyed or
MONASTERY
MONASTERY
Dahab
ST PAUL’S
neglected. Though not actually in use as a public MONASTERY bath, this hammam
Ras
MOUNT MOSES
Bawiti
Gharib El Tur
has been brilliantly restored to display the marble interior and floors
ALEXANDER
MONS
THE GREAT TEMPLE El Minya
Bahariyya
PORPHYRITES
with its delicate Oasis fountains and carved decorations. Sharm el-Sheikh
Qattara
Marsa
Matrouh
Depression
Farafra
Oasis
t
White Desert
W e s t e r n D e s e r
Abu minqar
Sidi Abd
el Rahman
Qasr Farafra
Alexandria
Porto
Marina
El Alamein
Rosetta
Borg Damanhur
El Arab
Wadi el-
Natroun
TONA EL GABAL RUINS
PYRAMIDS
OF GIZA
PYRAMIDS
El Mansura
TANIS
Tanta
Zagazig
Mallawi
Giza
BANI HASAN
TOMBS
D e s e r
TEL EL AMARNA
Asyut
Nile
River
Sohag
Damietta
Port Said
Ismailia
Cairo
Ain
Sukhna
t
SUEZ CANAL
Timsah
Lake
E a s t e r n
El Arish
Bardawil
Lake
Suez
Oyoun Musa
Gulf of Suez
El Gouna
Hurghada
MONS CLAUDIANUS
Safaga
Rafah
Taba
Pharaoh’s Island
Nuweiba
Gulf of Aqaba
MAKADI BAY
SAHL HASHEESH
SOMA BAY
R e d
Beaches
Golf Courses
Oases
Ports
Marina
Railway Stations
Restaurants and Cafés
Airports
Banks & ATMs
Hotels & Resorts
Bus Stops
Tourist Police
Tram stations
World Heritage Sites
Hospitals
Post Offices
Main Roads
Museums
Abu Shahin Mill House
55

56

57

58

The North Coast
& El-Alamein
59

The North Coast
& El-Alamein
The North Coast contains spectacular beach resorts
such as Porto Marina, and Hacienda, untouched
desert vistas and nature reserves as well as the
incredible battlefield site of El-Alamein.
El-Alamein lies some 100km from Alexandria. For
years it was a little known stop on the railway lines,
and in ancient times the site of Greek tombs and
Roman villas. But because it occupies the narrowest
part of the strip of desert that runs between the
impassable Qattara Depression and the sea, it was
chosen as the site for one the most significant battles
of World War II. Visit the museum and cemeteries for
an unforgettable experience.
THE BATTLES
There was not one battle but three in El-Alamein.
The first occurred when Rommel, the German
commander of improvisational genius, who
had harried the British back and forth along the
African north coast, tried to make a decisive break
for Alexandria in July 1942. However the Allies,
under General Auchinleck, chose to make a last
stand at the narrow isthmus of El-Alamein. The
devil of the desert campaigns was long supply
lines for fuel and ammunition. Rommel ran out of
both and came to a grinding halt at El-Alamein.
Tip
When walking the battlefield
sites always stick to tracks that
are visible. In the remoter areas
there are still mines, but not if a
vehicle has made a track there
already.
60

The second battle happened two
months later in late August. The
British, now commanded by the
determined General ‘Monty’
Montgomery, dug in and began
extensive mining of the area.
This would be the final point
he decided, the Allies would
be pushed no further, whatever
the cost. Rommel sensed that
the longer he waited the worse
the build up against him, so he
attacked the Alam Halfa ridge but
was repulsed by the stiff resistance
of the Allies. Retreating behind
massive minefields containing
over half a million mines, Rommel
and Montgomery waited. And
waited. Finally, in November,
when enough materiel had been
built up to ensure a three to
one superiority, Montgomery,
attacked in the third battle of El-
Alamein. Having cracked the
Nazi enigma code, the British
knew that Rommel was sick and
convalescing in Italy. They took
this as a good moment to attack.
Six months later the Germans
surrendered in Africa. El-Alamein
was their first big defeat, and they
never recovered after it.
British Spitfire Aircraft (1939)
61

THE WAR MUSEUM
The museum was created in 1965 initially from remains found on the
battlefield. There are uniforms, maps, flags and weapons all on display.
Also an accessible display of the battle which shows how much this was
a battle of ridges tiny wrinkles in the desert surface became the target
and cause for massive loss of life as each side tried to gain a toehold
in this inhospitable place. Tanks and armoured vehicles are on display
outside.
Royal Italian Army Artillery Major Field
Uniform at the War Museum
There is a fascinating section in the museum dedicated to the desert
war fought between the Nazis and the Allied Long Range Desert Group.
Patrolling the desert south of El-Alamein in converted trucks, they were
the pioneers of modern special forces desert warfare, indeed they carried
the SAS into battle until that force gathered its own transport. The chief
enemy of the LRDG was Laszlo Almasy, who haunts the Western Desert
of Egypt like no other character in recent history. A Hungarian explorer
and founder of the Hungarian boy scout movement, as well as a glider
champion, he was the first to visit much of the distant Gilf Kebir down
in the south west corner of Egypt. He used this knowledge to spirit two
German spies into Cairo during World War II. In the museum they have
a repaired LRDG vehicle found in the desert in 1992 in almost perfect
condition.
62

Km 105, Alex. Matrouh
Desert Rd., El-Alamein
046/410 0031, 046/410 0021
9 am - 2:30 pm
30°50’27.11” N
28°56’36.03” E
Field Morse-
Code Machine
63

COMMONWEALTH
MEMORIAL
This spread out cemetery honours
the 7,367 men from all the Allied
countries including, Australia,
New Zealand, Greece, France,
India and Great Britain to name
but a few. It also remembers
the 11,945 men whose bodies
were never recovered. There is
a serenity about the quiet rose
gardens that surround the inner
chapel of the cemetery which
those who visit cannot help but
notice.
30°50’20.96” N
28°56’51.35” E
Parents of the
fallen pay tribute
Commonwealth
War Memorial
64

Commonwealth War Memorial
65

GERMAN WAR
MEMORIAL
Built on a hill within sight of the
sea there is something poignant
about the German War Memorial
with its massive fortress-like
defensive architecture. The
German Memorial is all indoors,
inside a squat octagonal tower of
large lumpish stone with bulging
buttresses in which lie the bodies
of 4280 Germans slain during
the Battle of El-Alamein.
30°53’21.39” N
28°52’28.23” E
German Memorial
66

More than 2000
names are inscribed
on this wall
ITALIAN WAR
MEMORIAL
Initially in 1943 the Italians
and the Germans were interred
together. Then in 1949, El-
Alamein veteran Paolo Caccia-
Dominoni was given the task of
creating a lasting memorial and
graveyard for the Italians who
fought and died at El-Alamein.
He spent 10 years searching
the battlefield and burying the
dead while building arguably the
only memorial that appears to
celebrate the battle as something
heroic rather than grimly
necessary. Standing about 5km
beyond the German memorial
there is a grand avenue that
sweeps up to a chapel and hall
of remembrances. There is also
a small museum. In the chapel
there are inscriptions to the
identified 4800 Italian soldiers,
sailors and airmen who lost their
lives here. A second dedication
is to the 38,000 who remained
missing. Thousands of marble
plaques line the walls of the hall
remembering the dead.
30°54’15.03” N
28°50’23.87” E
Italian
Memorial
67

ITALIAN BUNKER
COMPLEX
For those of an adventurous
nature, it is worth getting a
Bedouin guide and searching out
some of the lesser known sights
of the Battle of El-Alamein. There
is still unexploded ordnance and
mines in the desert but with
a guide you should be fine as
enough people have been to
these places to make them safe
if you follow the established
routes.
The Italian hospital and bunker
complex is a fascinating site, an
elaborate series of earthworks
and trenches some 24km from
the coast along the El-Alamein-
Bahariya desert road.
GRAVEYARD OF
THE PANZERS
This place, 10km into the desert
near Tel el Aqaqir, exists as a
memorial to the spot where
German General Von Thoma
of the obliterated 15th and 21st
Panzer Divisions surrendered.
Did You Know?
British stage illusionist Jasper
Maskelyne was employed
by the Allied army to hide
the many tanks needed for
the Battle of El-Alamein. He
disguised the tanks under
cardboard and wood ‘truck’
bodies and had a false pipeline
built to make the Germans
think the attack was coming
from a different place.
Porto Marina
68

PORTO MARINA
Porto Marina is more than just a resort, it’s a lifestyle revolution. This
unique seaside destination attracts visitors from all over the world
in search of sun, fun, luxurious accommodation, hotel serviced
apartments, spa treatments, sporting facilities, quality entertainment,
internationals restaurants, 330 five star hotel rooms, yacht marina
and a commercial mall with 138 brands.
Whether you are a regional traveler for spectacular marina on your
luxury yacht, an international tourist looking for the most fashionable
local hideaway or a family looking to vacation together, The North
Coast is the destination of choice.
Km105 Alexandria - Marsa Matrouh Road
046/445 2 711
30°49’31.61” N 28°59’13.81” E
69

70

Marsa Matrouh
71

Marsa Matrouh
Though there is some evidence that Cypriot traders
started a port here first, it took Alexander the Great
to found a trading town here as a stopping point
between Alexandria and Siwa, home to the fabled
Oracle.
The spot is especially protected and of great natural
beauty, so it is no surprise Helen of Troy is supposed
to have sought refuge here, and Cleopatra named it
her favourite resort.
Matrouh is the closest point of Egypt to Europe less
that 400km from Crete and only 370km to Cyprus.
The Mediterranean is arguably at its most beautiful
at Matrouh- brilliant azure- and one can see why
Cleopatra should choose this place as her own
favourite. Later her lover Mark Anthony had bitter
memories of the place as he lost his fleet in the
harbour of the town to his enemy Cornelius Gallus.
Matrouh is these days a lively town of around 80,000
people. It is first and foremost a summer resort,
blessed as it is by calm seas and great beaches.
THE LAGOONS
The secret of the balmy beaches of Marsa Matrouh
is the fact that it is sheltered by four lagoons. Three
of them are really one large lagoon that faces an
opening to the Mediterranean. The fourth lagoon
is a lake containing ‘Bate’s island’ a fascinating tiny
archeological site a mere 135 metres long and 55
metres wide. You can wade to it from the shore and
all around are the scattered remains of inhabitation
from late Bronze age times, though Greek and Roman
right up until the present day.
Did you know?
Alexander the Great tried
to shoot a gazelle at Marsa
Matrouh but missed and this
resulted in the original name of
the place. He decreed the town
should be called ‘wide of the
mark’, which it remained right
through Roman times where it
was called Paraetonium, which
means ‘wide of the mark’ in
Latin.
72

Gharam Beach in Marsa Matrouh
73

74
Cleopatra Beach

CLEOPATRA’S
BATH
When Cleopatra and Mark had
finished disporting themselves
in the pool they could retire
to Cleopatra’s Villa. This ruin,
between the modern town of
Matrouh and the sea, once had
a subterranean passage leading
to the beach, perhaps allowing
midnight swims unobserved!
Unfortunately the site was
largely battered during the Allied
bombardment of Matrouh in
World War II.
30°49’31.61” N
28°59’13.81” E
Cleopatra’s Bath
75

ROMMEL’S CAVE AND MUSEUM
Rommel directed operations from an extensive cave system in the
cliffs over looking the harbour. Formerly it was a grain store used by
the Romans, for whom Egypt was their principle supplier of wheat.
The caves have now been made into a small museum, largely
honouring Rommel. Indeed it is his personal effects, donated by his
son Manfred, that make this place worth a visit. Rommel’s rather
suave full length leather coat, his compass and his marked up maps
are all on display.
31°21’56.24” N
27°14’53.69” E
Rommel’s coat is shown in his Museum
Did you know?
The builder of much of the original modern infrastructure of Marsa Matrouh
was a French anarchist known only as ‘E’. Under the orders of Camel Corps
Commander Andre Dumreicher in the 1900s he built the hospital, post
office, prison, school and police station.
76

DIVE THE U75 AND VOLO CARGO
SHIP
Matrouh was a centre of the diving industry from ancient Greek
times to the early twentieth century that is, sponge diving, favoured
by Greek warriors for padding their helmets as well as for the more
usual purposes. As many as 2000 divers would gather on the first
day of the season to collect the bountiful supply of sponges. Though
diving for sponges as an industry has stopped you may still see them
if you choose to dive any of the wrecks in and around the lagoon
of Matrouh. A U-75 submarine lies on the far side of Matrouh bay,
holed and sunk by depth charges in 1941. This was after it had sunk
the merchant ship the Volo, which lies about 100m from the beach
below Rommel’s cave.
Rommel’s Beach
77

78
Agiba Beach

Qara Oasis
Siwa Oasis
AMON TEMPLE
Siwa Gabal El Mawta
Cleopatra
The Great
Sand Sea
Tropic of Cancer
OWAYNAT MOUNT
6345,15 FEET
Sallum
Gabal Bath
El Dakrur
Sidi Barani
Areg
0 124,27 miles
Marsa
Matrouh
Farafra
Oasis
Abu minqar
Sidi Abd
el Rahman
Qasr Farafra
Bahariyya
Oasis
SUDAN
Porto
Marina
El Alamein
Borg
El Arab
Rosetta
Damanhur
Wadi el-
Natroun
PYRAMIDS
OF GIZA
Giza
PYRAMIDS
OF SAQQARA
Qaroun
Lake
Fayoum
Oasis
CYPRUS
Damietta
Rafah
El Arish
El Mansura Port Said Bardawil
Lake
TANIS
Tanta Ismailia
Zagazig Timsah
Lake
ABU SIMBEL
ST ANTHONY’S
MONASTERY
SUEZ CANAL
PORTO
EL SUKHNA
ST PAUL’S
MONASTERY
Ras
MOUNT MOSES
Bawiti
Gharib El Tur
ALEXANDER
MONS
THE GREAT TEMPLE El Minya
PORPHYRITES
Sharm el-Sheikh
BANI HASAN
TOMBS
TONA EL GABAL RUINS
Mallawi
El Gouna
TEL EL AMARNA
Hurghada MAKADI BAY
Asyut
SAHL HASHEESH
MONS CLAUDIANUS
Nile
Safaga
River
SOMA BAY
Sohag
WADI
ABYDOS
Qena HAMMAMAT
El Quseir
DANDARA
Ain Umm
VALLEY OF THE KINGS
Qus
El Qasr
Dakhla Dabadib
KARNAK
Oasis
AL BAGAWAT Al Kharga
Luxor
NECROPOLIS
Mut
Esna
Bulaq
TEMPLE
Kharga
OF KHNOUM
Oasis
Edfu
Baris
Beni Suef
Dush
EZBET DUSH
Memphis
El Fayoum
Ain
Sukhna
Ras Sidr
Za’farana
TEMPLE
OF HORUS
WADI EL-SUBUA
AMADA
Tushka
Qasr Ibram
Suez
Oyoun Musa
Taba
Taba
Heights
Pharaoh’s Island
SERABIT
EL KHADIM
Nuweiba
Abu
ST CATHERINE’S
Rudeis
MONASTERY
Dahab
Kom Ombo
TEMPLE OF SOBEK
& HAREORIS
Aswan
SAAD EL-ALI,
THE HIGH DAM
PHILAE
KALABSHA
Lake
Nasser
Port Ghalib
Marsa Alam
Berenice
EUROPE
Beaches
Golf Courses
Oases
Ports
Marina
Railway Stations
Restaurants and Cafés
Airports
Banks & ATMs
Hotels & Resorts
Bus Stops
Tourist Police
Tram stations
World Heritage Sites
Hospitals
Post Offices
Main Roads
Museums
Monasteries
Monuments
Islamic Sites
National Parks
Diving Sites
Sound & Light Shows
Tourist Information Offices
Ras Wireless Banas Internet
Shalatin
EGYPT
AFRICA
ASIA
Halaib
AGIBA BEACH
Agiiba means miracle in Arabic,
and this secluded spectacular
cove reached by a path from the
cliff top really is a miracle. But
like many miracles it is fairly well
known so, in summer, arrive early
if you want to stake your place in
the sun. There is a café at the top.
You can reach it by taxi or bus
from Matrouh which is 24km to
the east.
31°24’45.58” N,
27°00’22.72” E
LIBYA
M e d
Gelf Kebir
Qattara
Depression
i t e r
t
White Desert
W e s t e r n D e s e r
r a
Alexandria
n e a n
New Valley
S e a
Cairo
D e s e r
E a s t e r n
t
Gulf of Suez
Sinai
Gulf of Aqaba
R e d
S e
a
79

80

General
Mediterranean Sea
Travel Section
81

FOOD
On the Mediterranean in Egypt you’ll want to be eating fish. It’s fresh
and excellent and there is always lots of choice. You pick the fish out
yourself in many restaurants and see just how fresh it is. The main
choice you make is whether to have your fish fried or grilled. The
price will be determined by the weight of the fish. Popular fish include
sole, red mullet, bass, grey mullet, crab, shrimp and calamari or squid.
All delicious!
As well as fish there are the standard Egyptian dishes of kebab,
chicken, stuffed pigeon and stuffed vine leaves. Most are served with
rice, salad and vegetables if desired. No trip to Egypt is complete
without tasting the dish of kushari, a mix of lentils, rice and pasta and
sauce that is unique.
Tip
When buying street food such as Felafel sandwiches, just look for the stall
with the longest and busiest line, that is always bound to be good!
82

Egyptian local food
83

ACCOMMODATION
Where to stay on the White Mediterranean will be determined
by whether you choose a resort or a town based hotel. Both have
advantages. In Alexandria itself there is the largest selection of hotels
from the cheap and cheerful to the five star excellence of such places
at the Hotel Cecil as well as many newer establishments of equal
quality. In Marsa Matrouh there are mature hotels in and around the
town as well the resort of Almaza Bay which is only 37km away. For
Rosetta and El-Alamein there are existing hotels of good quality. El-
Alamein is also superbly served by the relatively new Porto Marina
with all its many facilities.
San Stephano Residential Tower in
Alexandria
Cecil Hotel
84

GETTING AROUND
For traveling around the White Mediterranean the tourist is well
served by both public and private transport options. There are bus
services between all the towns, major and minor. To get to battlefield
remains, a distant beach or an ancient site, is very easy to arrange at
your hotel. They will contact a trusted operator who will drive you
by taxi, microbus or 4x4 as is deemed most appropriate. You can
also summon taxis on the streets of the bigger towns. Simply state
your destination and agree a price then go. In the remoter stretches
of the White Med you can even hitch a lift in a passing pick-up if you
are really stuck! All modes of transport are very cheap compared to
European prices, and apart from public bus services you can always
try your hand at bargaining (though hotels will offer a guide price for
transport if you desire it).
Alexandria Taxi
Double-decker bus operates in
Alexandria
85

YOUR JOURNEY
IN EGYPT
CONTINUES…
The White Mediterranean is easy
to get to from Luxor, Aswan, Cairo,
Sharm el-Sheikh and Siwa. To
make a longer, more unforgettable,
journey, why not add two or three
of these fabulous destinations
together?
Karnak
Temple
LUXOR
For a full Luxor experience one should see the Valley of the Kings
with Tutankhamun’s Tomb, the Temple of Luxor and other great
sites of antiquity. There are numerous first class hotels and great
chances to relax in a sailing felucca on the mighty river Nile. One
can also travel to Aswan by boat from Luxor.
To go to and from Luxor one can fly direct, which takes no more
than an hour, as do most internal flights in Egypt. One can also
take the first class train to Cairo and then change and take
either the daytime or ‘sleeper’ train up to Luxor, a fantastic
experience which takes around eight hours.
86

ASWAN
Aswan is the gate to Nubia,
a realm of marvelous calm
and the favourite destination
of the Aga Khan and
Francois Mitterrand to name
but two famous people
who succumbed
to its wonderfully
relaxing charms.
There are ancient
temples, the incredible high
dam, Elephantine Island
and ancient monasteries all
there to help you create the
holiday story of lifetime.
You can get to Aswan by
boat from Luxor, flying
direct from Alexandria, or by
vehicle from Luxor or Cairo.
Elephantine
Island
Philae
Island
87

Old City Fortress
of Shali
SIWA
If you have time, Siwa makes for a great journey into the heart
of the Western Desert. Only three or four hours along a good
road from Marsa Matrouh, Siwa is an oasis town surrounded
by large saline lakes of majestic beauty. Siwa is home to
the ancient Oracle temple where Alexander the Great went
after conquering Egypt. Other attractions of Siwa include hot
springs, Roman ruins, the mud walled town of Shali and a
magnificent eco-lodge where Prince Charles and many other
luminaries have stayed.
SHARM EL-SHEIKH
Sharm el-Sheikh is the latest addition to the international destinations
of Egypt. Known originally as one of the world’s number one diving
spots, it has great wreck and coral diving and is situated on the tip
of the Sinai Peninsula. Nearby lies the immense charm of desert
and mountain scenery and the ancient attraction of St. Catherine’s
Monastery and Mt. Sinai.
To get to Sharm el-Sheikh from Alexandria is easy, either by a short
flight or by bus or long distance taxi via Cairo.
Sharks Bay
88

Pyramids of
Giza
Cairo by Night
CAIRO
Cairo usually features in any Egyptian experience. It is has, after all, the only remaining
wonder of the ancient world, the Pyramids, as well as the great Egyptian Museum, the marvels of
Islamic Cairo and the Citadel, the Nile, as well as numerous restaurants and nightspots. Cairo can
be reached from Alexandria by the Alex desert road or by train. There is a rapid first class service
that arrives in under three hours and provides for a meal by the route if required.
89

PRACTICAL INFO
Location: 31 05 to 22 N 25 02 to 34 56 E
Population:
More than 100 million
Large cities:
Cairo, Alexandria, Aswan and Suez
Language:
Arabic
EGYPT TODAY
Since the end of the nineteenth century, Egypt has been evolving at a
very high speed. Its political, economic and cultural life has undergone
striking changes. From the inscription of the first hieroglyph to the
construction of the new hi-tech Smart Village, Egypt has always been
a pioneer on the frontier for emerging information technologies in
the Arab world.
Egypt is one of the oldest countries in the world, its people are
conscious of their ancient origin and proud of their heritage. This
makes the Egyptian provider of services for the tourist both experienced
and able to anticipate what any tourist is likely to want to see. The
Egyptian people have suffered under several waves of invasion, but
have never been broken. Their talent is in flexibility and thinking up
novel solutions to problems. With this is mind and a flexible approach
of your own, you will have a marvelous time on holiday.
ENTRY AND DEPARTURE
Visitors will need a single-visit visa to enter Egypt. The visa is valid
for 90 days. If the planned trip involves travel in and out of Egypt
over the same period, then the best option is a multiple-visit visa.
Obtaining a visa is straightforward. It can be arranged in advance
through one of the Egyptian consulates dotted around the world, or
purchased on entry at airports. All visitors will need to have a passport
which must have at least six months remaining of its validity from
the date of entry. Egypt applies strict customs rules about bringing
items such as alcohol and cigarettes into the country, so to avoid any
misunderstandings it is probably advisable to buy at an airport shop.
Under no circumstances should you attempt to leave the country
with antiquities.
90

HEALTH
There are no vaccinations needed to visit Egypt. Sunburn and
dehydration can be avoided by using plenty of sun cream, wearing
light cotton clothing and a hat, and drinking lots of water. The health
care facilities in Egypt are generally good and it is advisable to have
health insurance.
COMMUNICATIONS
Egypt has embraced internet services and now it is easy to go online
at hotels, offices and internet cafes. Egypt has widespread wi fi
service available.
You can buy visitor mobile cards that enable you to use your mobile.
You can buy stamps and post your letters at post offices or from your
hotel. Post offices are closed on Fridays.
ELECTRICITY
Egypt’s electricity works on 220v with sockets being of the two-pin
European mainland variety. It’s a good idea to pack an adaptor if
planning to use personal items like mobile phone chargers.
INFORMATION AND BOOKING
Flying to Egypt, is relatively straightforward. The main airline,
EgyptAir (www.egyptair.com), runs regular and efficient service to
Cairo, Alexandria, Luxor and Aswan from airports around the world.
It also provides inexpensive domestic flights. Some visitors choose to
arrive by road or by sea. Cruise ships often make Egypt a key stop on
their itineraries. Booking holidays or short trips to Egypt is easily done
via links from the Egyptian Tourist Authority’s website (www.egypt.
travel), online direct with local agents, or by visiting your nearest
travel agent. Also check (www.eha.com) to choose your hotel.
91

LANGUAGE
The official language of Egypt is Arabic and other languages are
widely spoken too, especially in tourist areas.
Talk like an Egyptian
A little bit of Egyptian Arabic will
go a long way as you meet locals
during your trip. Here are some
Arabic words to help you get
started.
Aywa .....................yes
La ..........................no
shukran .................thank you
Min fadlak .............please
afwan.............................you’re
welcome
salaam aleikum .....hello
ahlan wasahlan .....welcome
maalesh.................no problem
Every area of Egypt is different but
there are similarities. For example,
it is customary to pay after
receiving a service not before- be it
a drink, a meal or a taxi ride. Also
you will find a level of trust absent
in more ‘developed’ countries.
If you go into a shop and buy a
paper and find you haven’t enough
money the shop keeper will trust
you to return with the right amount
later- and let you take the paper
with you!
MONEY, ATMS
AND CREDIT
CARDS
The currency of Egypt is the
Egyptian pound, which is
divided into 100 piasters. Cash
is generally easily obtained from
ATMs, which can be found in
larger towns and cities. Most
of the major hotels and stores
accept credit cards, such as
Visa and Mastercard, along with
travellers’ cheques and certain
foreign currencies like Euro,
Sterling and Dollars. If venturing
off the beaten track you will find
that generally only the Egyptian
pound in cash will be accepted.
PUBLIC
HOLIDAYS
Holidays include the Coptic
Christmas on January 7, Labour
Day on May 1, Revolution Day
on July 23, Armed Forces Day
on October 6. The Islamic New
Year, the Birth of the Prophet and
Ramadan, the major religious
period of fasting that precedes
the Bairam Feast, change every
year.
BUSINESS HOURS
Government,administrative
offices and banks are generally
open from 9am to 2pm each
day, except for Fridays,
Saturdays and public holidays.
92

Most shops are open from
10am to 10pm every day except
Sunday. Please note that all these
times may vary in shopping
centres and during Ramadan.
Most historic sites and museums
are open from 9am to 5pm
daily, and often until 6pm in the
summer.
TIME
Egypt is two hours ahead of
GMT.
TRANSPORT
As Egypt is such a vast country,
the best way for holidaying
visitors who may have a limited
amount of time to explore is to
travel from one city to another by
air. There are also long distance
buses and trains available.
Travel within cities is probably
best done by taxi or a minibus,
although car hire is an option.
Hiring a car with a guide by the
day is a good idea if you have
a tight schedule and want to
see all the sights. If planning to
go into the desert it is a must to
take a guide to avoid becoming
disorientated. Cairo also has
an underground metro system,
which is a good way to travel
around the city.
CLIMATE
During the summer, from March
to November, the climate is hot
and dry in most of the country.
December to February can be
quite cold in the north. The sky is
usually blue and cloudless. The
temperature varies considerably
in Egypt. It rains more often in
Alexandria than in Aswan and
Cairo.
POPULATION
With more than 100 million
inhabitants, Egypt represents
one quarter of the population of
the Arab world.
SAFETY
Compared to New York and
London, walking the streets of
even the poorest neighborhoods
of Alexandria, Luxor or Cairo
you will not encounter any threat
of physical violence or criminal
intent. Mugging is unheard of,
burglary rare.
CLOTHING
Women need to be somewhat
more careful when walking
alone at night, as in any country,
and wearing modest clothing
makes obvious sense when away
from the more developed resort
areas.
93

IMPORTANT NUMBERS
Emergency Numbers in Egypt are very handy and can be contacted
anytime. Country code +2
GALLANTRY OF THE EGYPTIAN
Egyptian people are by nature very friendly and helpful. If you stop with
a map on a street corner expect to gather a few helpers. If you need to
ask directions people will be very happy to give you them. Here people
are generous with time, and are not bothered if you interrupt them with
some requests.
Ambulance
123
Fire Brigade
180
Police
122
Tourist Police
126
Traffic Police
128
Cairo Airport Shuttle Bus
service 19970
Flying hospital service
02/377 66393
Railway Information:
Cairo 02/257 53555,
Alex 03/392 0010
Cairo Old Airport Information
02/22675842
Cairo New Airport
02/22652029
Egyptair
1717
Telephone Directory
140
Speaking Clock
150
94

THERE’S ALWAYS SOMETHING
TO TELL ABOUT EGYPT.
WHAT’S YOURS?
95

France
Info.eta.fr@mota.gov.eg
Italy
Info.eta.it@mota.gov.eg
ufficioturisticoegiziano@gmail.com
United Kingdom
Info@gotoegypt.org
Germany
Info.eta.de@mota.gov.eg

Grand
Egyptian
Museum
Golf Kebir
Elba

Alexandria & the White Med - Prepared by The Egyptian Tourism Authority - Edition: designed by JWT Cairo. Written by Robert Twigger. Edited by John Harris
Photographs that appear in this brochure are captured by Hisham Labib, Ashraf el Mahrouky, Samo Rera, and Gardel Bertrand.
The information in this brochure has been carefully checked and to the best of our knowledge is accurate. However, details are subject to change, and The Egyptian Tourism Authority
cannot be responsible for such changes.
For rights or permissions inquires, please contact The Egyptian Tourism Authority
Copyright © 2010. All Rights Reserved. The Egyptian Tourism Authority. This edition is published by The Egyptian Tourism Authority. Reproduction of the whole or any part of the
contents without written permission from the publisher is prohibited.
Printed in Egypt.
ENG Printed in Egypt By UPPIT Tel:(202) 27956104 Issue 2024