(51) The Cultured Traveller - Eleventh Anniversary Edition, September-November 2025 Issue 51

E L E V E N T H A N N I V E R S A R Y E D I T I O N

➤ ISSUE 51

SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2025

UK £10 EU €10

Shangri-La

A MOUNTAIN CITY OF MONASTIC CALM

NICARAGUA’S CAPTIVATING FORMER CAPITAL ➤ GLORIA ESTEFAN

THE UAE’S EMPTY QUARTER ➤ W XI’AN ➤ SAM MCKNIGHT

SLOVENIAN WINE CULTURE ➤ SIFNOS

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Raffles Sentosa Singapore embraces 62 pool villas of wondrous

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we present the legendary Raffles service: from the warm

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A STAY BEYOND IMAGINATION.

MEMORIES THAT LAST FOREVER.

Set high above the glittering

waters of Lake Lucerne,

Bürgenstock Resort blends luxury

and nature in perfect harmony,

with award-winning spas, worldclass

dining, and breathtaking

views.

BURGENSTOCKRESORT.COM

Looking towards the Baima Snow Mountains from the roof of the

Songzanlin Monastery complex in Shangri-La, south-western China

ELEVENTH ANNIVERSARY EDITION

ISSUE 51 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2025

highlights

50 A MOUNTAIN CITY OF MONASTIC CALM

High on the edge of the Tibetan Plateau, Nicholas Chrisostomou journeys

to Shangri-La in China’s Yunnan province. At its heart stands Songzanlin, a

sprawling 17th-century monastery complex, whose golden roofs gleam against the

mountains. In a city where devotion and daily life are inseparable, he reflects on the

spiritual grandeur, quiet rituals, and layered history that define this extraordinary

destination.

103 A LATIN ICON MARKING 50 YEARS IN MUSIC

With a glittering career spanning five decades, Gloria Estefan opens up to

The Cultured Traveller about her extraordinary journey. From chart-topping hits

and cultural milestones to her enduring role as a trailblazer for Latin artists, she

reflects on life, legacy, and the rhythm that continues to inspire her.

127 A NATION’S HERITAGE TOLD THROUGH WINE

Slovenia’s winemaking heritage stretches back thousands of years, yet today feels

fresher than ever. From the vineyards of Ljubljana Castle to pioneering producers

like Movia, the country’s rolling hills and fertile valleys yield wines of character and

distinction, with tradition, terroir and innovation coming together in every bottle.

44 A BOTANICAL HAVEN OF RAFFLES REFINEMENT

Blending contemporary design with tropical seclusion on Singapore’s lush Sentosa

Island, The Cultured Traveller checks into Raffles’ newest all-villa resort. Spread

across lush botanical grounds, each villa comes with a private pool, shaded by

century-old heritage trees and enlivened by the calls of hornbills and peacocks.

34 A PALATIAL RETREAT IN THE ARAVALLI HILLS

Set amid seven hectares of landscaped grounds, the new Fairmont Udaipur Palace

rises against the backdrop of the Aravalli Hills with striking Rajputana-inspired

architecture. Courtyards, terraces, and stepwells echo the legacy of Mewar’s

fortresses, while interiors are enriched by intricate artistry handmade by artisans.

48 WIN A FOUR-NIGHT PRIVATE ISLAND ESCAPE

A restorative half-board stay for two awaits at the new Westin Nirup Island Resort

& Spa in Indonesia’s Riau Archipelago. Overlooking the South China Sea, the prize

includes a deluxe room, two 60-minute spa treatments, one dinner on the beach,

and round-trip ferry crossings from Singapore.

7

16

24

CONTENTS

72

146

63

10 CONTRIBUTORS

12 EDITOR’S LETTER

14 NEWSFLASH

From the fiery tar barrel runs of

rural England, to the delicate floating

krathongs of northern Thailand, the

world’s largest celebration of chocolate

in Paris, and Mexico’s vibrant Day

of the Dead parades, The Cultured

Traveller rounds-up an unmissable global

feast of culture, tradition, spectacle and

seasonal festivities unfolding across

continents during the next three months.

26 REST YOUR HEAD

From botanically rich all-villa

RAFFLES SENTOSA SINGAPORE,

nestled amongst heritage trees on

Sentosa Island, to the strikingly

contemporary beachfront MONDRIAN

on Australia’s Gold Coast, via the

revitalised EDINBURGH GRAND in

Scotland, and the City of Lakes’ opulent

119

new FAIRMONT UDAIPUR PALACE in

Rajasthan, The Cultured Traveller checks

into a dozen addresses defined by style,

character, and a true sense of place.

63 SUITE ENVY

At W XI’AN, in the heart of China’s ancient

capital, Nicholas Chrisostomou checks into

the hotel’s one-of-a-kind Extreme WOW

Suite of sweeping curves, mirrored volumes

and cinematic flair, and discovers a space

that balances irreverence with elegance, and

spectacle with unexpected moments of calm.

72 ART CULTURE

The Cultured Traveller chats with

one of Turkey’s most esteemed visual

storytellers, İZZET KERIBAR, whose

photographic journey spans continents

and decades, reflecting on light, memory,

and the enduring pull of the camera.

84 SPOTLIGHT

A few hours’ drive from Dubai, on the edge

of Arabia’s fabled Empty Quarter, the road

dissolves into golden dunes and solitude

8 ISSUE 51 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2025

and silence take hold. Here, Ashlee Starratt

ventures deep into storied RUB’ AL KHALI,

tracing the footsteps of ancient tribes and

uncovering the secrets of the desert.

92 CITY FOCUS

Enchanted by its colourful 17th century

architecture and unique frontier-like

spirit, Alex Benasuli explores the colonial

streets of GRANADA, the Spanish-built

former capital of Nicaragua ‒ Costa Rica’s

edgy neighbour.

114 TASTE & SIP NEWCOMER

The Cultured Traveller team reviews

TASHAS’ first UK outpost, and discovers

a restaurant that embodies Natasha

Sideris’ unique blend of refined artistry,

relaxed hospitality, and culinary finesse.

119 TASTE & SIP FOOD CULTURE

While exploring the food culture of

SIFNOS, where clay, chickpeas, and

family recipes shape one of the Cyclades’

richest culinary traditions, The Cultured

Traveller uncovers the island’s true heart.

139 TASTE & SIP INTERVIEW

One of Slovenia’s most respected

103

48

contemporary sommeliers, NINA

BRATOVŽ is helping to redefine how the

world sees her country’s wines through

a thoughtful, quietly confident approach

rooted in emotion, integrity, and place.

142 TASTE & SIP GIN CULTURE

In Lijiang at YOUYUN DISTILLERY

in south-western China, a husband-andwife

team is producing premium gins

with distinctive Yunnan botanicals,

while introducing the spirit to a largely

unfamiliar Chinese market.

145 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Web addresses for everywhere featured

in the Eleventh Anniversary Edition of

The Cultured Traveller magazine.

146 TRAVEL TIPS FROM THE TOP

SAM MCKNIGHT has touched the

tresses of icons from Kate Moss to

Princess Diana, and his style travels

just as well as his legendary talent. We

ask the celebrated hairdresser twelve

questions about how he packs, stays

polished, and the little luxuries that keep

him grounded.

44

127

50

TIANXIN WENG

➤ COVER STORY ➤ SHANGRI-LA, CHINA

Guangzhou-born Tianxin ‘Dandy’ Weng has

been passionate about photography since he was

a child. At the age of 28, he took a leap of faith,

leaving behind his career as a software engineer

to become a full-time photographer. Today he

embraces a nomadic lifestyle, is based nowhere,

continuously globetrots, and has been taking

travel photos for more than a decade.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

PUBLISHER COCO LATTÉ

DESIGN TAHIR IQBAL

EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON, LISA WEYMAN

ADVERTISING JEREMY GORING

RETOUCHING STELLA ALEVIZAKI

THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Tianxin Weng, Ashlee Starratt, Alex Benasuli, Howard Healy

WITH THANKS TO

Nina Bratovž, Gregor Banič, Simeon Gönc, Alex He

Charmaine Lin, Vivian Ni, Amber Gong, Winston Ye

İzzet Keribar, Kiki Dimitriadis, Polenakis Theodoros

George Diaremes, Seajets, Sixt Greece

CONTRIBUTORS

ASHLEE STARRATT

➤ SPOTLIGHT ➤ RUB’ AL KHALI, UAE

Ashlee is a Canadian journalist and editor with nearly

two decades in news and lifestyle media. Having

spent many years in the Gulf, she travelled widely

throughout the region, writing about its destinations,

culture and people. From Omani coastlines to desert

cities and bustling souks, her stories reflect a deep

curiosity for place and perspective.

ALEX BENASULI

➤ CITY FOCUS ➤ GRANADA, NICARAGUA

London-based Alex has travelled the world, exploring

Europe, Asia, Africa and the Americas in depth.

Equally at home on an off-the-beaten-track adventure

as on a cultured city break, he uses travel to fuel his

passions for history, design, wellness and the natural

world, always seeking fresh perspectives and deeper

connections along the way.

The Cultured Traveller

is published by Coco Latté, London

Editorial ➤ words@theculturedtraveller.com

Subscriptions ➤ subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com

Advertising ➤ ads@theculturedtraveller.com

Issue 51 of The Cultured Traveller

© 2025 Coco Latté - All Rights Reserved

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is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced

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The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of

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shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff.

The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions,

but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles,

photographs or other materials submitted.

Read digital editions of The Cultured Traveller here

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THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

COCO LATTÉ, 5 MERCHANT SQUARE

LONDON W2 1AY, UNITED KINGDOM

COVER: Songzanlin Monastery in Shangri-La,

Yunnan province, China, photographed by Tianxin Weng


Sofitel Legend

The Grand

Amsterdam

Five-star luxury

in a unique

historical ambiance

Sofitel Legend The Grand Amsterdam offers five-star luxury in a unique

historical ambiance. Furnished with French elegance and grandeur,

the hotel welcomes a variety of visitors, from the trendy Amsterdam

elite to famous international movie stars. In all of the rooms and suites

(including butler service), the restaurants, the halls, and the beautiful

Garden Terrace, the heritage and luxury of this opulent landmark will

charm all who visit. Over the course of the centuries, this exquisite

Amsterdam landmark has been ripened and enriched by countless

special events and, during the process, has also acquired tremendous

culinary fame.

Chef de Cuisine Raoul Meuwese and his team invite guests to enjoy

the varied selection of dishes available at award-winning restaurant

Bridges, Mediterranean Oriole Garden Bistro and on the beautiful

Garden Terrace; an oasis of peace and tranquility, situated in the heart

of the city. In the afternoon, you can withdraw to the Library ‘Or’ to enjoy

The Grand Afternoon Tea, with or without a glass of champagne. If you

are looking for the perfect place to unwind in the heart of Amsterdam,

pamper yourself at Sofitel SPA with a beauty treatment or relax after a

few laps in the pool.

Sofitel Legend The Grand Amsterdam - Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197 - 1012 EX Amsterdam

T +31(0)20 555 31 11 - www.sofitel-legend-thegrand.com

From left to right: Rub’ al Khali in the UAE;

Songzanlin Monastery in Shangri-La;

Gloria Estefan; Granada, Nicaragua

EDITOR’S LETTER

TIME HAS A WAY OF

shaping both people and

places. Eleven years

ago, The Cultured Traveller

set out to chronicle the

world’s cultures with

curiosity and care, and

each issue since has been a

reminder that journeys are

measured not only in miles

travelled, but in stories

encountered along the

way. Anniversaries invite

reflection, but they are also

about looking forward, and about acknowledging

continuity while embracing the new.

IN THIS CELEBRATORY ISSUE, OUR

pages stretch across continents, linking distant

landscapes in a single conversation. Alex

Benasuli captures the raw spirit of Granada in

Nicaragua, where colonial façades and frontier

energy reveal the layers of a city that once

rivalled great capitals (page 92). A few thousand

miles east, Ashlee Starratt ventures into Rub’ al

Khali ‒ the Empty Quarter ‒ where silence and

shifting sands tell the story of Arabia’s desert

heart (page 84). And high on the Tibetan plateau

in southwest China, I walk through the gilded

rooftops and hushed chambers of Songzanlin

Monastery in Shangri-La, finding in its monastic

calm, a rare stillness that endures long after

departure (page 50).

THE ELEVENTH

Anniversary Edition

also honours creative

milestones. Gloria

Estefan, whose music

has carried generations

across languages and

borders, reflects on half

a century in song while

continuing to evolve with

passion and purpose (page

103). Meanwhile, legendary

hairdresser Sam McKnight,

whose artistry has framed

some of the most recognisable faces of our age, is

marking fifty years of styling in 2025 (page 146).

Both remind us that longevity in any field comes

not from repetition, but from renewal.

AS THE CULTURED TRAVELLER TURNS

eleven, I am grateful for the journeys we have

shared and the cultural conversations we have

sparked together. May this issue, like the many

before it, inspire you to keep exploring with open

eyes and an open mind. Here’s to the road and

years ahead.

Nicholas Chrisostomou

Editor-in-Chief

@TCTEditor

nicholas@theculturedtraveller.com


news

FROM THE FIERY TAR BARREL RUNS OF RURAL

ENGLAND, TO THE DELICATE FLOATING

KRATHONGS OF NORTHERN THAILAND, AND

THE WORLD’S LARGEST CELEBRATION OF CHOCOLATE IN

PARIS, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ROUNDS-UP A GLOBAL

FEAST OF CULTURE, TRADITION, AND SPECTACLE

CHICHÉN ITZÁ

AUTUMN EQUINOX

CURE SALÉE

EACH YEAR, AS THE

rainy season wanes,

nomadic clans from

across the Sahara

converge on the salt flats and pools

surrounding the small West African town of

In-Gall, in Niger’s Agadez region. This

centuries-old tradition marks the time to

refresh livestock before the long journey

south for the dry season, yet it is far more

than a practical stop. Cure Salée is a

vibrant celebration – part harvest festival,

part market, part grand social gathering –

and, most famously, a dazzling male beauty

contest. Here, the roles are playfully

reversed: men adorn themselves with

intricate face paint, elaborate attire, and

jewellery, then sing, chant and dance to

captivate female judges. The highlight,

known as the Yaake, sees rows of men

swaying in unison, their hypnotic

movements accompanied by rhythmic

songs. Fuelled by a fermented bark tea

whispered to have intoxicating properties,

the dancers sustain their performance

for hours in a joyous display of endurance

and allure.

Third week of September 2025

IN THE HEART OF MEXICO’S

Yucatán Peninsula, the

ancient Maya city of

Chichén Itzá – its name

translating to “at the brim of the well where the

wise men of the water live” – stands as both a

UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New

Seven Wonders of the World. Among its most

compelling spectacles is the biannual equinox at

the Temple of Kukulcán, when the late afternoon

sun casts a series of triangular shadows down

the pyramid’s northern staircase, creating the

mesmerising illusion of a serpent in motion.

Thousands gather to witness this precise

alignment of architecture and astronomy, an

event as steeped in spiritual symbolism as it is in

scientific mastery. Around the site, the

atmosphere turns festive, with music, dance and

rituals blending ancient tradition with modern

celebration. Many dress in white, seeking to shed

negativity and embrace the renewing energy

heralded by the changing season.

22 September 2025


NEWSFLASH

GOLDEN EAGLE

FESTIVAL

IMAGE: SENG MAH

IN THE REMOTE PROVINCE

of Bayan-Ulgii, where

Mongolia meets Russia,

China and Kazakhstan,

rugged peaks, glacial valleys and fast - flowing

rivers form the backdrop to one of the country’s

most compelling cultural gatherings. This

region is home to the Kazakhs, a distinct ethnic

minority whose traditions differ from those

of the Mongols, yet whose way of life remains

deeply connected to the land. Among their most

renowned practices is the ancient art of hunting

with golden eagles, a skill passed down through

generations. Now in its 24th year, the Golden

Eagle Festival, organised by the Mongolian Eagle

Hunters’ Association, offers a vivid showcase of

this heritage. Eagle hunters in traditional attire

assemble from across the region, competing

in a series of contests that demonstrate the

precision and agility of their birds, as well as

the horsemanship, archery and cultural pride of

their handlers. The spectacle is as much about

identity as it is skill.

22 September - 2 October 2025

www.viewmongolia.com

NAVRATRI

OBSERVED IN HONOUR

of the goddess Durga’s

victory over the buffalo

demon Mahishasura,

Navratri – meaning ‘nine nights’ – is among

the most significant and joyfully celebrated

festivals in the Hindu calendar. Across India,

the occasion is marked with distinct regional

traditions, each paying homage to the

triumph of good over evil. In Gujarat, vibrant

nightly gatherings see thousands dressed

in colourful attire performing the energetic

folk dances of garba and dandiya raas in

circular formations, often continuing into the

small hours. In West Bengal, the final days

of Navratri coincide with Durga Puja, when

exquisitely crafted idols of the goddess are

installed in elaborately decorated pavilions

and venerated through music, incense, and

devotional rituals. Homes and temples alike

are adorned with lights and flowers, while

fasting and feasting form an integral part of

the observance. It is a time when devotion,

artistry, and community spirit merge in a

vivid celebration of faith.

30 September - 7 October 2025


15

ABBA VOYAGE

NOW INTO ITS FOURTH YEAR, SINCE

opening on 27 May 2022, and set in a

purpose‐built arboreal amphitheatre

beside London’s Queen Elizabeth

Olympic Park, ABBA Voyage continues to universally

mesmerise everyone who attends. Featuring lifelike “ABBAtar”

avatars performing the group’s 1970s hits amid the spectacle

of cutting‐edge CGI and a live backing band, the show remains

at the forefront of live entertainment in London.

Earlier this year, the production marked its third anniversary

with a curated expansion of its setlist, with classics such as

Super Trouper, The Name of the Game, Take a Chance on Me

and Money, Money, Money added to the show. A subtle nod to

change, it's one that heightens the nostalgic delight without

sacrificing the original’s dramatic emotional impact.

Still routinely drawing full houses, ABBA Voyage has

proven to be both a commercial heavy-hitter and a

cultural phenomenon, redefining the boundaries of virtual

performance art. For the cultural traveller, it's a must-see at

least once, since it is both a portal to the golden era of pop,

and a tour de force of visionary staging.

https://abbavoyage.com

NEWSFLASH

IMAGE: JOHAN PERSSON

HERMANUS WHALE FESTIVAL

JUST A SHORT JOURNEY

from Cape Town, the coastal

town of Hermanus is

renowned for its dramatic

shoreline, golden beaches, excellent vineyards,

and a thriving gastronomic scene. Every spring, it

also becomes the stage for one of nature’s most

captivating spectacles: the return of southern

right whales to South Africa’s warmer coastal

waters. Having migrated from the frigid feeding

grounds of Antarctica, these giants gather to

mate, calve and nurture their young, often within

astonishing proximity to the shore. The Hermanus

Whale Festival – a long-established celebration of

this seasonal arrival – offers a lively programme

of activities designed to honour both marine life

and the environment. Visitors line the cliff paths

for unparalleled sightings, while the town hums

with music, art, and food events. It is a rare

opportunity to witness these majestic mammals

at close range, set against the charm and

hospitality of one of South Africa’s most scenic

seaside destinations. 3-5 October 2025

https://hermanuswhalefestival.co.za

ALBUQUERQUE

INTERNATIONAL

BALLOON FIESTA

IN THE HIGH DESERT of

New Mexico, October

skies burst into a

symphony of colour

during the Albuquerque International Balloon

Fiesta. Pilots, crews and enthusiasts from

more than fifty countries gather at the foot of

the Sandia Mountains for a celebration that has

become one of the most photographed events in

the world. The festival’s defining moments are its

mass ascensions, when hundreds of balloons lift

off in perfect harmony, filling the horizon with a

mesmerising array of shapes and hues. These

coordinated launches, staged on weekend

mornings and once mid-week, take place only

after a dawn patrol confirms ideal flying

conditions. When the go-ahead is given, the

morning light reveals a breathtaking aerial

display that drifts gracefully across the desert

sky. For first-time visitors, it is a scene of pure

enchantment; for returning spectators, a

timeless tradition that continues to captivate.

4-12 October 2025

www.balloonfiesta.com


NEWSFLASH

AUSTIN CITY LIMITS MUSIC FESTIVAL

Doja Cat

EVERY OCTOBER, AUSTIN’S

Zilker Metropolitan Park

transforms into a sprawling,

open-air stage for one of

America’s most celebrated music gatherings.

Spread over two consecutive three-day weekends,

the Austin City Limits Music Festival draws

hundreds of thousands of fans to experience an

eclectic mix of genres, from rock and folk to

electronic, hip-hop and Latin. The park’s 350 acres,

set where Barton Creek meets the Colorado River,

provide a scenic backdrop for multiple stages,

pop-up art installations, and a lively showcase of

local cuisine and crafts. This year’s line-up promises

an irresistible blend of global stars and emerging

talent, with soulful powerhouse Hozier, pop

sensation Sabrina Carpenter, and genre-defying

Doja Cat (pictured), each headlining across the two

weekends. Alongside them, an array of acclaimed

artists, DJs and bands will keep the energy high

from afternoon until nightfall, reaffirming Austin’s

reputation as a city where creativity and live

performance thrive. 3-5 + 10-12 October 2025

www.aclfestival.com

MID-AUTUMN FESTIVAL

WITH ORIGINS TRACING

back more than 3,000 years to

ancient moon-worship rituals,

the Mid-Autumn Festival has

evolved into one of China’s most cherished annual

celebrations. Over centuries, as the nation

expanded and its culture flourished, diverse lunar

traditions merged into the festival known today,

also referred to as the Moon Festival or Mooncake

Festival. Second in cultural importance only to

Chinese New Year, it is observed across China and

in many parts of Asia, including Singapore, Malaysia

and the Philippines. Rooted in gratitude for the rice

harvest, the festival blends thanksgiving with a

symbolic appeal for the moon’s light to bless the

year ahead. It is also a time for reunion, when

families come together to share elaborate dinners,

light delicate paper lanterns, and admire the full

moon. Mooncakes, rich with symbolic meaning, are

exchanged among friends and relatives, embodying

wishes for harmony, prosperity and togetherness.

6 October 2025

BERLIN FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS

EVERY AUTUMN,

Berlin’s grand facades

are transformed into a

city-wide gallery of

light and colour, as internationally acclaimed

artists reimagine its skyline after dark.

Architectural icons such as the

Brandenburg Gate, Berlin Cathedral and

Bebelplatz become the canvases for

spectacular projections, intricate 3D

mappings, and thought-provoking visual

narratives. Across the German capital,

historic landmarks and contemporary

structures are bathed in mesmerising

illuminations, each telling a distinct story

that weaves together art, history and

innovation. The interplay of light and shadow

draws attention to architectural details

often overlooked, while expansive displays

animate entire squares and boulevards.

Along the River Spree, reflections ripple with

shifting hues, creating scenes that are as

painterly as they are ephemeral. From the

grandeur of state buildings to the intimacy

of hidden courtyards, this festival invites

visitors to experience Berlin in a new light,

celebrating its creative vitality and

cosmopolitan spirit.

8-15 October 2025

https://festival-of-lights.de/en


19

NEWSFLASH

ALBA INTERNATIONAL WHITE TRUFFLE FAIR

IN PIEDMONT’S LANGHE

hills, the medieval town of

Alba welcomes gourmands,

chefs and connoisseurs for

its annual celebration of the white truffle. With a

skyline of ancient towers and cobbled streets,

Alba provides an evocative setting for this

fragrant festival, where the star attraction is

unearthed by trained dogs and cherished for its

fleeting aroma and irregular, knobbly form.

Truffles are ceremonially shaved over

handmade pasta, risotto, eggs and other simple

dishes that allow their delicate perfume to sing.

The atmosphere is one of convivial indulgence,

with tastings, cooking demonstrations, wine

pairings and cultural events that draw

enthusiasts from around the world. The fair

honours the tradition of truffle hunting and the

bond between hunters, hounds and the

woodland landscapes that conceal these earthy

diamonds. Truffles emerge from the damp forest

soil, and the fair’s market showcases Piedmont’s

wines, cheeses, and other regional delicacies,

adding to the indulgent atmosphere.

1 October – 8 December 2025

www.fieradeltartufo.org

FRIEZE LONDON

SET IN THE HEART OF

the British capital,

much-lauded annual Frieze

Art Fair catalyses one of

the most significant weeks in London’s cultural

calendar. Usually featuring over one

hundred of the world’s leading galleries, plus

dozens more at Frieze Masters, together these

two fairs present the best of international

contemporary art by emerging and established

artists, alongside a dynamic programme of

newly commissioned artworks, short films and

talks. Frieze also runs workshops, hosts

seminars and shows performance-based

installation artworks. As always, Frieze London

offers a dynamic programme of special projects,

partnerships, and events that showcase

London’s appeal as a vibrant cultural

destination. And Frieze Week – an extended

programme of cultural events – will run in

conjunction with the fair at galleries,

institutions, and artist-led spaces throughout

the city. 15 – 19 October 2025

www.frieze.com

Yinka Shonibare

WEXFORD FESTIVAL OPERA

ACCLAIMED FOR CHAMPIONING

lesser-known repertory, the

Wexford Festival Opera

transforms the harbour town of

Wexford into a global opera destination each autumn.

For its 74th edition, the festival explores the theme

“Myths & Legends,” drawing audiences for 16 days of

performances across the National Opera House and

surrounding venueswexfordopera.com. All

performances take place in Ireland’s first purposebuilt

opera house. Major productions for 2025 include Verdi's

Le Trouvère, Handel’s Deidamia, and

Delius’s The Magic Fountain, all staged with the artistic

daring and intimate scale that have become the

festival’s hallmark. The gala concert returns as a

showcase of favourite party pieces performed by

festival artists, with proceeds supporting future

seasons. Beyond the main stage, the programme

encompasses lunchtime recitals, pocket operas, talks

and community events, offering insights into the

personalities and voices of Wexford’s ensemble.

Coupled with the town’s medieval streets and seaside

charm, the festival’s blend of discovery and tradition

continues to enchant discerning opera lovers.

17 October – 1 November 2025

www.wexfordopera.com


CARBON GARDEN

AMID THE VERDANT

splendour of Kew Gardens, a

ground-breaking new space

named the Carbon Garden

invites visitors to explore the invisible world of carbon

and encounter nature’s potential in healing our planet.

Unveiled in July 2025, this permanent garden is

infused with purpose: over 6,500 plants and 35

resilient trees, selected for their ability to thrive under

future climate conditions, point towards a horticultural

future rooted in sustainability.

The garden's design elegantly unfolds in

distinct themes: a floral chart of climate stripes in

perennials that mirror rising global temperatures;

a dry garden of drought-hardy Mediterranean

species thriving in sandy soils; and a rain garden

with swales that manage excess water while

enriching the soil for long-term carbon storage.

At its heart stands a mushroom-inspired

pavilion (pictured), designed by Mizzi Studio and

crafted from low-carbon materials, whose canopy

gathers rainwater and shelters garden learning

and contemplation. With bold visual storytelling and

keen scientific insight, the Carbon Garden makes

climate action feel immediate and beautiful.

www.kew.org/kew-gardens

IMAGE: INES STUART-DAVIDSON

BRISBANE GOOD FOOD & WINE SHOW

FOR THREE DAYS EVERY

October, Brisbane’s convention

centre transforms into a culinary

playground when the Good Food

& Wine Show returns. Celebrating the vibrant produce

and vintages of Queensland and beyond, the fair pairs

artisan vendors with masterclasses led by acclaimed

chefs and sommeliers. At regional wine pavilions you

can sample coolclimate drops, while the newly

launched Discovery Stage invites you to meet food

heroes and discover emerging brands through

engaging demonstrations. Connoisseurs can indulge

in the VIP Lounge presented by Singapore Airlines, with

reserved seating, a gourmet lunch and premium

wines, or explore the Sonos Sound Bar’s immersive

masterclass series featuring gin martini and

margarita workshops. A Gin Lover Ticket unlocks

tastings with multiple distillers and an exclusive

class, while the Wine Selectors Wine & Food Tasting

Rooms and Drinks Lab offer expertled tastings.

And chefs at the Harvey Norman Kitchen inspire with

live cooking, ensuring a feast for all the senses.

24-26 October 2025

https://goodfoodshow.com.au/brisbane

SALON DU CHOCOLAT

SET IN THE HEART OF

Paris at Porte de

Versailles, the Salon du

Chocolat is the world’s

largest celebration of chocolate and cocoa

innovations. Over five days, hundreds of

chocolatiers and pastry chefs from around

the globe present their creations, offering

visitors rare opportunities to sample

confections and discover new flavours. The

show’s highlight is the Chocolate Fashion

Show, a daily parade in which designers and

chocolatiers collaborate to craft couture

garments entirely from chocolate.

Throughout the fair, live demonstrations and

pastry classes allow enthusiasts to observe

masters at work, while exhibitions trace the

journey of cacao from bean to bar. Visitors

can purchase exclusive cacaobased

products, meet artisans from diverse

cultures, and attend talks exploring

sustainable cocoa farming. With its

combination of craftsmanship, creativity and

indulgence, the Salon du Chocolat has

become a pilgrimage for chocolate lovers and

industry experts alike.


www.salonduchocolat.fr

PUSHKAR CAMEL FAIR

FOR ONE WEEK EACH AUTUMN,

the tranquil lakeside town of

Pushkar bursts into colour as

pilgrims and traders gather for the

Pushkar Camel Fair. Timed to coincide with the Hindu

festival of Kartik Purnima, the fair draws thousands of

worshippers who bathe in the sacred waters of Pushkar

Lake on the final day, believing it brings blessings for the

year ahead. Around 50,000 camels, horses and cattle

descend on the dunes outside town to be groomed,

adorned and showcased in competitions of beauty and

speed. Animals swathed in vibrant fabrics and festooned

with bells parade before discerning judges, while traders

haggle over livestock and a kaleidoscope of textiles,

jewellery and saddlery. Away from the camel shows, the

festival hosts folk music, dance performances,

moustache competitions, acrobats and ferris wheel.

At dusk, candlelit lamps float across the lake, merging

spiritual reverence with the riotous energy of a livestock

fair, creating an unforgettable spectacle beneath

Rajasthan’s desert sky.



NEWSFLASH

DÍA DE LOS MUERTOS

IN OAXACA CITY, ANCIENT

pre-Columbian beliefs

mingle with Catholic

customs in a threeday

celebration of life and death. Homes and

cemeteries are transformed with elaborate

ofrendas—altars adorned with marigolds,

candles, incense, sugar skulls and favourite

dishes to welcome home departed loved ones.

Colourful calaveras (skeleton) imagery,

popularised by printmaker José Guadalupe

Posada and later by muralist Diego Rivera,

appears everywhere, from street art to

intricately painted faces. Preparations begin

on 30 October, when households clean, cook

and create clay altars. The following day is

known as Día de los Angelitos, dedicated to

children, with small toys and candies left out

to entice youthful souls. On 1 November, the

main festivities erupt into parades,

processions and candlelit vigils; participants

eat pan de muerto, sip mezcal and share

memories at gravesides, believing the souls

of the departed return as honoured guests. The

atmosphere is both reverent and joyous, uniting

communities in a collective embrace of

mortality and remembrance.

2 November 2025

BURNING

BARRELS

AT OTTERY

ST MARY

ON BONFIRE NIGHT IN

the Devonshire village

of Ottery St Mary,

men, women and boys

shoulder flaming tar barrels and charge

through winding lanes in a ritual whose

exact origins are lost to time. Thought to

date back to at least the 17th century

and possibly linked to anti-Catholic

celebrations after the Gunpowder Plot,

the event sees each pub sponsor a

barrel that is soaked in tar and set alight

outside its door. Carriers grasp the

smouldering barrels – some weighing over

30 kilos – and dash through throngs of

spectators, sparks dancing in the cool

night. The procession starts with smaller

barrels for youngsters and women before

the dauntingly large men’s barrels blaze

late into the evening. After the final run,

the barrels are tossed onto a heap by the

River Otter to create a roaring bonfire,

closing an evening that is equal parts

danger and devotion. It is a visceral

spectacle of community, tradition and

sheer grit. 5 November 2025

www.tarbarrels.co.uk


23

YI PENG LANTERN FESTIVAL

ROOTED IN THE ANCIENT

Lanna kingdom and aligned

with the full moon of the

second lunar month,

Yi Peng marks the transition from the monsoon

to the cool season. In Chiang Mai, the festival is

celebrated alongside Loy Krathong,

transforming the city into a luminous

wonderland. Homes, temples and bridges are

adorned with colourful lanterns and candles;

monks chant and meditate in courtyards

fragrant with incense. As twilight deepens,

thousands of khom loi (paper lanterns) are

released simultaneously, drifting upward like

glowing jellyfish against the night sky. Each

lantern carries wishes for good fortune and

symbolises the release of misfortune and

negative emotions. Traditional dances and

parades wind through the old city; ornate floats

float along the Ping River as villagers set

krathongs – decorated bananaleaf rafts – onto

the water. Watching the sea of lanterns rise

silently into the heavens, one experiences a

serene collective moment that blends ritual,

beauty and communal hope.

5–6 November 2025

PIRATES FEST

FOR ONE LIVELY FORTNIGHT

in November, the Cayman

Islands trade their polished

veneer for swashbuckling

revelry as Pirates Fest takes over all three islands.

Grand Cayman hosts a week of festivities themed

“That’s Cayman: Our National Treasure,” with a

flotilla of costumed buccaneers sailing into

George Town harbour amid cannon fire and

cheering crowds. A grand parade fills the streets

with lavish floats, marching bands and motley

crews of pirates, while a packed calendar includes

sea swims, 5K runs, treasure hunts, children’s

costume contests, piratethemed workshops, live

music and street performancesexplorecayman.

com. Food stalls serve Caribbean delicacies and

rumspiked cocktails; craft markets showcase

local artistry. As the sun sets, fireworks light up

the harbour, bookending days filled with mock

sword fights, beachside parties and theatrical

invasions. The revelry continues on the Sister

Islands with a twoday celebration, proving that the

spirit of privateers past still courses through

Caymanian waters. 8–15 Nov (Grand Cayman)

+ 21–22 Nov (Sister Islands)

www.visitcaymanislands.com

FESTA DELLA MADONNA DELLA SALUTE

EACH NOVEMBER, VENICE

unites in a centuries-old

expression of faith and

gratitude during the Festa

della Madonna della Salute. The tradition

dates back to 1630, when the city vowed to

honour the Virgin Mary for delivering it from a

devastating outbreak of plague. On the day, a

temporary pontoon bridge is built across the

Grand Canal, linking St. Mark’s Square to the

striking domed Basilica di Santa Maria della

Salute. Thousands of Venetians and visitors

cross to light candles, offer prayers and

attend mass, creating a moving spectacle of

devotion within the church’s soaring baroque

interior. The atmosphere is at once solemn

and celebratory, with the city’s calli alive with

the scent of castradina, a hearty smoked

mutton stew traditionally eaten during the

festival. This unique blend of religious

observance, civic pride, and seasonal

gastronomy captures the enduring spirit of La

Serenissima in the quiet beauty of late

autumn. 21 November 2025

GIANNI VERSACE RETROSPECTIVE

AT ARCHES LONDON

Bridge, a dazzling new

retrospective offers an

intimate look at the genius

of Gianni Versace. Opened on 16 July 2025, this

is the UK’s largest solo exhibition of the

designer to date, showcasing over 450 original

garments, sketches, runway footage and

accessories from his seminal spring/summer

1988 through autumn/winter 1997/98

collections. Visitors trace the evolution of his

audacious aesthetic – from opulent baroque

prints and bondage-inspired tailoring to the

Medusa-emblazoned silhouettes that defined

an era – and discover iconic pieces crafted for

cultural icons including Princess Diana, Elton

John, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss. Curated

by Dreamrealizer’s Karl von der Ahe, this

chronicle is arranged thematically, exploring

Versace’s Italian inspiration, his impact on pop

culture, and his enduring relationship with

London. Beneath the brick arches of this

historic venue, the exhibition marries glamour

with narrative, offering more than fashion – it

invites visitors into the theatrical heartbeat of

a legendary creative.

Until 1 March 2026

https://gianniversaceretrospective.com

DUBAI UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

rest your

➤ DUBAI ➤ MARBELLA ➤ SINGAPORE ➤ MIYAKOJIMA ➤ UDAIPUR

➤ PENINSULA PAPAGAYO ➤ BURLEIGH HEADS ➤ MIAMI BEACH

➤ GEORGE TOWN, PENANG ➤ POGGI DEL SASSO

➤ EDINBURGH ➤ SENTOSA ISLAND

Banyan Tree Dubai, Bluewaters Island, United Arab Emirates

head

FROM A BOTANICALLY RICH ALL-VILLA

RETREAT NESTLED AMONG HERITAGE

TREES ON SINGAPORE’S SENTOSA ISLAND,

TO A STRIKINGLY CONTEMPORARY

BEACHFRONT HAVEN ON AUSTRALIA’S

GOLD COAST, VIA A REVITALISED HISTORIC

LANDMARK IN EDINBURGH’S NEW TOWN

AND A REBORN ART DECO GEM IN MIAMI,

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER CHECKS

INTO A DOZEN ADDRESSES DEFINED

BY STYLE, CHARACTER, AND A

TRUE SENSE OF PLACE

DUBAI UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

BANYAN TREE DUBAI

DUBAI IS A CITY THAT THRIVES ON SPECTACLE – A PLACE

where glass towers rise like mirages from the desert,

shopping malls double as leisure complexes, and the hum of ambition is

constant from dawn until well past midnight. Its waterfronts are stages

for superyachts and its boulevards pulse with the energy of a metropolis

in perpetual motion. Yet even here, amidst the glittering rush of

commerce and the constant beat of urban life, there are pockets where

the tempo slows, and the city’s restless rhythm falls away.

On the edge of Bluewaters Island, a short hop from Dubai Marina, Banyan

Tree Dubai offers one such rare sanctuary. And from the moment The

Serenity Oceanview Guestroom

Cultured Traveller arrives, the sense of calm is palpable. The city’s

skyline still shimmers in the distance, but here, time miraculously seems

to soften. The air carries the scent of saltwater, the gardens whisper in Duck. Helmed by Chef Alvin Leung, this is the resort’s standout dining

the breeze, and the horizon stretches unbroken across the Arabian Gulf. experience – a vibrant, imaginative reimagining of Chinese cuisine,

where familiar flavours are layered with playful twists and a sense of

A Serenity Oceanview Guestroom offers an elegant and beautifully

theatre that makes every dish memorable.

conceived haven, providing everything one could possibly need for a

In light of the brand’s holistic ethos, no stay at a Banyan Tree property

relaxing city break, with warm, natural textures and soft minimalism

is complete without some spa time, and a signature massage is the icing

framing a bijou private terrace with views towards the water. A place

on the wellness cake of an all-too-short but exceedingly soothing stay.

to step outside barefoot in the mornings and watch the sunlight ripple

Embraced by one of the spa’s seven luxe and earthy-toned treatment

across the sea, or enjoy a cheeky cocktail before dinner, it feels more like rooms, intuitive therapists make it impossible not to unwind completely.

a retreat than a hotel room.

Days at Banyan Tree Dubai unfold at a blissfully easy pace. Swimming During a walk along the shore at dusk, in the shadow of Ain Dubai’s

pools are tranquil and inviting. The gym is exceptionally well-equipped. A glowing lights, the city’s energy is reduced to a distant hum. In a

program of yoga and wellness classes is freely offered. And the mood is destination that so often dazzles with noise and novelty, Banyan Tree

leisurely and the flavours fresh at Alizée, the resort’s laid-back French- Dubai offers the rarest luxury of all: stillness.

Mediterranean poolside restaurant. Evenings, though, belong to Demon

www.banyantree.com/united-arab-emirates/dubai

28

MARBELLA SPAIN

ME MARBELLA

SHELTERED BETWEEN YACHTLINED PUERTO BANÚS AND THE

atmospheric lanes of Marbella’s Old Town, the Costa del Sol

balances sundrenched beaches with the rugged outline of the Sierra

Blanca. Along the promenade, chiringuitos, galleries and boutiques set

an easy rhythm by day. Come nightfall, marinas glow and plazas fill with

conversation beneath jasminescented balconies.

Following a EUR 20 million renovation, ME Marbella marks the

Andalusian debut of Meliá Hotels International’s most designdriven

brand. Conceived by Adriana and Álvaro Sans of ASAH Studio, the

building channels regional vernacular through sculptural arcs, tactile

surfaces, and a palette drawn from ochre hillsides, limewash, and the

blue Alboran Sea.

tables; and Barlume pairs inventive cocktails with seasonal dishes in a

200 rooms including 24 suites look towards the water, mountains, or

relaxed, designled setting.

landscaped gardens. Interiors are bright and paredback, using timber

The Marbella ME+ programme unlocks bespoke experiences: visiting

accents and soft fabrics to frame the views, while highend amenities keep artist Ana Ortiz’s studio, indulging in oliveoil beauty rituals, joining a

the focus on ease and flow. Beyond accommodation, the property positions private tapasandstorytelling walk with photographer Jesús Chacón,

itself as a cultural hub, with music sessions, art interventions, and wellness sailing on an electric llaüt, or tasting bottles matured beneath the sea

rituals that plug guests directly into Marbella’s creative scene.

at Spain’s pioneering underwater winery.

At the centre of the hotel sits The Oasis, a signature beach club

anchored by an indoor “shore”, where loungers, palms and a rhythmic

With its beachfront positioning, statement architecture, and calendar of

soundtrack blur boundaries between inside and out.

cultural happenings, ME Marbella lands as a confident new address on

Gastronomy is curated with Pont Hospitality across three distinct

Spain’s southern coast – a place where contemporary lifestyle meets

venues: La Terraza Del Med serves honest, regionally sourced plates

Andalusian spirit.

meant for lingering; Solana revolves around livefire cooking and convivial www.mebymelia.com

30

SINGAPORE

THE STANDARD,

SINGAPORE

SINGAPORE’S GLEAMING SKYLINE SPEAKS OF AMBITION

and modern mastery – a city evolved from its colonial port

into a cosmopolitan hub where commerce and creativity share equal

footing. From the shophouse-lined lanes of Chinatown to the Peranakan

pastels of Joo Chiat, and Orchard Road’s parade of designer façades,

each district moves to its own rhythm, the pace exhilarating and, at

times, happily relentless.

Rising above leafy Orange Grove Road, The Standard places guests between

the UNESCOlisted Botanic Gardens and the buzz of the city. Opened in

2024, the hotel’s angular glass silhouette catches tropical light and signals a

confident new arrival in one of the city’s most coveted enclaves.

Inside, playful sophistication takes over. At reception, Eric Tobua’s

Dreamscape – a terrarium-like fantasia of orchids, crystal ponds, and

surreal creatures – sets an imaginative tone, while the broader design,

by The Standard’s inhouse team with Ministry of Design, layers neutral

palettes with tactile textures and moments of visual surprise.

Spread across eight floors, the 143 rooms and suites feel calm

and contemporary, many overlooking surrounding greenery. Beds

are generous and cocoon. Every room contains a seating area. And

bathrooms are sleek and functional. Basically, every essential for an

effortless city stay is present, correct, and executed with humour.

The hotel’s social heart unfolds across an elevated pool deck:

turquoise water edged with striped loungers, terracotta umbrellas

and a tiered garden terrace that lends a resort note to an urban

setting, complete with a swim-up pool bar.

Dining centres on Kaya at The Standard – a modern Japanese

izakaya marrying authentic ingredients with newwave techniques.

The food is delicious and competitively priced for Singapore. Next

door, a bright al fresco bar and lounge is renowned for its excellent

craft cocktails and weekend DJ sets. And on the lobby level, Café

Standard serves coffee at dawn, casual plates throughout the day,

and offers a relaxed place to meet until late, with an evolving menu

that nods to comfort and conviviality.

Positioned as a social hub yet equally adept at being a quiet retreat,

Singapore’s incarnation of The Standard deftly blends architectural

impact, greenery, and a touch of whimsy – offering an artful pause in

the midst of one of Asia’s most dynamic cities.

www.standardhotels.com/singapore


31

MIYAKOJIMA JAPAN

ROSEWOOD MIYAKOJIMA

SITUATED OFF THE SOUTHERN COAST OF OKINAWA

Prefecture, Miyakojima is celebrated for its dazzling turquoise

waters, pristine beaches, and spiritual heritage. Known locally as the

“Island of Prayers”, it is part of the Ryukyu archipelago, whose distinct

culture blends Japanese and island influences. The pace here is gentle,

shaped by the tides and the rustle of sugarcane fields, yet the island is rich

in tradition, craftsmanship, and culinary nuance.

seamlessly to the outdoors, while the largest houses feature threemetre

ceilings, open terraces with barbecue grills, and dedicated

butler service.

Dining spans four distinct concepts. NAGI blends Italian cuisine with

Japanese techniques; MAAS, beside the ocean, showcases simply

prepared local seafood; YUKUU serves drinks and light plates by the

pool; and later this year, CHOMA will offer sushi, tempura, teppanyaki

and yakitori crafted by specialist chefs.

Occupying an untouched peninsula with sweeping views over Oura Bay,

Rosewood Miyakojima opened in March 2025 as the brand’s first Japanese

property. Designed by Studio Piet Boon, the resort takes its cues from

Ryukyu architecture, using local limestone, natural textures and clean lines

to frame the landscape. Sustainability and harmony with nature underpin

the design, from the low-profile villas to the use of native stone that

anchors the property to its setting.

Wellness is led by Asaya, Rosewood’s integrative concept, where

treatments incorporate Okinawan herbs, island sea salt, and timehonoured

healing rituals.

Immersive experiences range from karate with a local sensei to

pottery, weaving, and learning traditional spearfishing. Guests can

snorkel coral reefs where they likely encounter sea turtles, or join the

resort’s conservation programme as “turtle ambassadors”.

The resort’s 55 beachfront and ocean-view villas, plus three

expansive houses, are spread across five zones, each named in the

Okinawan dialect to reflect its location – from cliffside perches to villas

With its deep connection to Miyakojima’s heritage, distinctive design and

highly personalised service, Rosewood Miyakojima offers a rare gateway to

directly on the sand. Interiors draw on organic materials, connecting

an unspoiled corner of Japan. www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/miyakojima

32

UDAIPUR INDIA

FAIRMONT UDAIPUR

PALACE

RINGED BY THE ARAVALI HILLS AND LACED WITH GLISTENING

lakes, Udaipur has long been synonymous with romance

and royalty. Founded in 1559 by Maharana Udai Singh II, the “City

of Lakes” was the historic capital of Mewar and remains a jewel of

Rajasthan, its skyline punctuated by palaces, ornate havelis, and

domed temples. Visitors are drawn not only to its architectural

treasures, but also to its serene waters and enduring traditions of art,

music, and especially craftsmanship.

Across its three wings – Surya Mahal, Chandra Mahal, and Agni Mahal

– the palace channels elemental symbolism, from sunlit corridors to

torch-lit passageways. Interiors are enriched by hand-carved jharokhas,

embroidered artworks, and lustrous thikri mirror inlays, much of it crafted by

artisans from surrounding villages. Throughout the property, leopard motifs

appear in sculpture and art as an emblem of grace and quiet strength.

More than 300 rooms and suites include rooms with plunge pools and

an array of suites, culminating in the Jewel of Udaipur and the

Set on an estate of more than seven hectares, Fairmont Udaipur

Palace is a striking new hospitality landmark that blends Rajputana

grandeur with modern refinement. Rooted in the design language of

Mewar’s great fortresses, the palace’s chattris, courtyards, stepwells

and marble terraces are brought to life through intricate local

workmanship. Guests arrive through a dramatic fortress-like gateway

before discovering pavilions, shaded gardens and colonnades that frame

sweeping valley views.


Jewel of Udaipur Suite

The Palace Bar

Royal Maharaja and Maharani suites, each with private pools and expansive

terraces. Eight dining venues range from Bahaar, offering locally sourced

dishes with global accents, to Zaika’s refined regional Indian cuisine.

Dahaad, the palace bar, glows with onyx and a striking leopard sculpture,

while Sitara serves sunset cocktails beneath the stars.

A vast spa offers treatments drawing inspiration from the sun’s daily

journey, and combine aromatherapy with traditional techniques. A wellequipped

gym, landscaped pools, and a variety of recreation activities –

including mini-golf, pickleball, and ziplining – complete the leisure offerings.

Set against the natural drama of the Aravali Hills, Fairmont Udaipur

Palace offers guests a grand layered journey through Rajasthan’s living

heritage – from its architectural storytelling and immersive cultural

touches, to a culinary repertoire that reflects both local traditions and

global influences.

www.fairmont.com/udaipur


35

PENINSULA PAPAGAYO COSTA RICA

NEKAJUI, A RITZ-

CARLTON RESERVE

ON COSTA RICA’S NORTH-WESTERN PENINSULA

Papagayo, where tropical dry forest meets the Pacific,

lies Nekajui – the first Ritz-Carlton Reserve in Central and South

America. Named after the Chorotega word for “lush garden”, the resort

is set within one of the country’s most biodiverse regions, surrounded

by coastal cliffs, hidden beaches and mangroves.

Peruvian omakase offering. Niri Beach Club, reached via a funicular,

serves Iberian-inspired dishes beside the sand. Meanwehile, Ámbar

treetop bar crafts botanical cocktails, and Poolside focuses on

Latin coastal fare. Café Rincón celebrates Costa Rica’s coffee

and cacao heritage, and the resort’s “Dining Beyond” programme

curates private, one-of-a-kind meals in secluded settings.

Designed with sustainability at its core, the architecture blends native

stone and wood with contemporary lines, reflecting the culture and

landscapes of the Guanacaste region in which the resort is located.

Guests arrive via La Casita, inspired by traditional villages, before

entering La Casona – a light-filled living room echoing the elegance of

historic haciendas. Secret gardens, mosaic-tiled chapels, and curated

Latin American artworks enrich the property’s sense of place.

107 ocean-facing rooms, suites, treetop tents and private residences

all feature floor-to-ceiling glass, expansive terraces, and outdoor

showers or plunge pools. Interiors showcase Chorotegan-inspired

details – gold accents, handcrafted wood and pottery – alongside views

of Playa Pochote and the Pacific.

Dining is led by chef Diego Muñoz at Puna, which combines indigenous

ingredients with global techniques and serves an intimate Asian-

Wellness is anchored by a 2,500 square-metre spa and wellness

complex, where hydrotherapy pools, treetop treatment rooms and

rituals using volcanic mud, Juanilama oil and Chorotega pottery

connect guests to the land’s healing traditions.

Adventure is equally integral to Nekajui, with guided hikes,

ziplining, and mangrove canoeing just some of the activities offered.

Surfing at Witch’s Rock, sailing, scuba diving, and an Arnold Palmerdesigned

golf course expand the list of pursuits, each framed by

Costa Rica’s extraordinary scenery.

Immersive, culturally grounded and surrounded by nature, Nekajui

redefines seclusion on Peninsula Papagayo, offering a rare retreat

shaped by place, people, and the rhythm of the land.

www.ritzcarlton.com/en


Your Private Island Escape

The Westin Nirup Island Resort & Spa Batam blends pristine nature, elegant stays, & thoughtful service.

Wake to sweeping sea views, unwind in infinity pools, indulge in Heavenly Spa treatments, & savor global flavors

in our signature restaurants. A sanctuary where every moment renews your mind, body, & spirit.

IG : westinnirup | T : +62 778 210 8899

E : bthni.reservations@westin.com

www.westinnirup.com

The Westin Nirup Island Resort & Spa Batam

Nirup Island, Sekanak Raya, Belakang Padang,

Batam, 29416, Indonesia

37

BOOK NOW

BURLEIGH HEADS AUSTRALIA

MONDRIAN GOLD COAST

FRAMED BY THE VERDANT HEADLAND AND PRISTINE

sweep of sand that have made Burleigh Heads a beloved coastal

enclave, the southern Gold Coast offers a more laid-back rhythm than its

glitzier northern neighbour. Surfers carve across its famed point break, families

picnic beneath pandanus trees, and the beachfront esplanade hums with the

conviviality of morning coffee runs and sunset strolls. This is a place where the

Pacific’s vast blue expanse meets a community rooted in surf culture, wellness

and a deep connection to the sea.

Into this scene steps Mondrian Gold Coast, a 208-key architectural

landmark by Fraser & Partners that marks the brand’s Australian debut.

Rising between the pines along Burleigh’s shoreline, its spaces – by Studio

Carter – frame panoramic vistas and pair coastal ease with polished design. Wellness is anchored by CIEL Spa, where bio-wellness treatments and

Accommodation spans oversized studios and suites, multi-bedroom homes, restorative therapies harmonise body, skin and mind. A Technogymequipped

fitness centre, magnesium-infused plunge pools, and a

beach houses with plunge pools, and the Sky House, crowned by five-metre

windows and a chef’s kitchen. For extended stays, homes and suites feature 24-metre resort-style pool encourage movement and recovery.

full kitchens and open-plan living, while beach houses combine the privacy

of a residence with hotel service.

Beyond its design and amenities, the property embraces creativity and

connection through an evolving calendar of cultural collaborations, live

On the ground floor, LiTO channels Italian summer warmth into relaxed, performances and immersive experiences. True to the brand’s ethos,

produce-driven fare, while Haven, one level above, offers seafoodfocused

menus, poolside cabanas, and a curated funky soundtrack.

Mondrian Gold Coast is as much a place to engage as it is a place to stay.

https://mondrianhotels.com/gold-coast

IMAGE: CONTENT LION

38

MIAMI BEACH UNITED STATES

HOTEL CONTINENTAL

FEW PLACES CAPTURE THE ENDURING GLAMOUR OF

America’s coastal cities like Miami Beach. Here, pastel Art

Deco façades stand alongside Miami Modernist curves, while sunlit

boardwalks and iconic venues vibrate with the energy of art, beach

culture and a lively nightlife scene.

Hotel Continental’s renewed identity straddles nostalgia and modernity

with effortless ease – a Miami Beach landmark refreshed, its

storytelling style intact yet unmistakably of today.

www.tapestrycollection.com

Perched on the corner of 40th Street and Collins Avenue in trendsetting

Mid-Beach, Hotel Continental first opened in 1948 and has recently been

reborn as Miami Beach’s first Tapestry Collection by Hilton property.

The hotel’s location offers real neighbourhood depth: just steps from

the beach, the waterfront boardwalk and cultural attractions, while art

galleries and eclectic dining in both South Beach and Mid-Beach lie

within easy walking distance.

The five-storey building remains a striking example of post-war

architecture, now carefully revitalised by Spot On Ventures and Highgate

to fuse retro glamour with boutique allure, with original neon signage still

crowning the façade, signalling a return to heritage with calm confidence.

Inside, curated art by Danny O’Connor and T.S. Harris – evoking midcentury

figures and landscapes – brings visual richness to the restored

interiors. At its heart, a Miami Modern-style pool sits beneath vintage

signage in a subtle nod to the property’s past.

A distinctive departure from the ordinary, the hotel boasts its own

10.4-metre luxury launch – part sun-drenched cruiser, part vintage

vignette. Guests can charter the teak-decked vessel for sunset sails,

chef-crafted bites, or champagne breakfasts at sea.

IMAGES: VICTORIA GRODSKI


39

GEORGE TOWN MALAYSIA

THE MILLEN PENANG

ON MALAYSIA’S NORTH-WEST COAST, THE ISLAND OF

Penang blends centuries of cultural exchange with the

vibrancy of a thriving port city. George Town, its UNESCO-listed capital,

is a labyrinth of shophouses, clan houses and markets, where Chinese

temples stand beside colonial-era churches and mosques. Known as the

nation’s food capital, the island serves up a tapestry of flavours shaped

by Malay, Chinese, Indian and Peranakan traditions. Beyond the historic

core, palm-fringed beaches, rainforest hills and fishing villages reveal a

slower, more tropical side to island life.

Set on historic Millionaire’s Row, The Millen Penang captures the elegance

of a bygone colonial era while introducing a contemporary interpretation of

luxury. Behind its façade lies a hotel designed to bridge Penang’s storied

past with the rhythm of the present, where subtle metallic accents, marblelined

bathrooms, and locally crafted furnishings combine to create an

atmosphere of quiet refinement. Guestrooms and suites feature polished

timber floors, soft lighting and bespoke artwork, creating spaces that

feel at once timeless and distinctly connected to the island. Rooms frame

expansive views of the Andaman Sea, with floor-to-ceiling windows flooding

interiors with light, and design touches that balance sophistication with a

strong sense of place.

Dining is equally considered. Lili celebrates the flavours of Malaysia

with a modern sensibility, while The Good Society reimagines the ritual

of afternoon tea, pairing premium blends with freshly baked pastries

and cakes. Coffee is also central to the experience, with the hotel’s

own artisanal blend developed alongside a local roaster.

The hotel’s leisure facilities extend the sense of balance and

wellbeing, from a saltwater infinity pool overlooking the Straits

of Melaka to a 24-hour fitness centre. Also planned to open later

this year, the hotel’s Nut&Meg Wellness Spa will draw on local

ingredients for treatments rooted in Penang’s heritage.

With George Town’s historic streets and cultural landmarks

just minutes away, The Millen Penang offers an address that

seamlessly combines heritage, design and comfort, and

introduces a fresh chapter of hospitality to one of Southeast

Asia’s most compelling destinations.

https://themillenpenang.com


POGGI DEL SASSO ITALY

VILLA LA VEDETTA

TUSCANY’S MAREMMA REGION REMAINS ONE OF ITALY’S

most captivating rural landscapes – a place of sun-baked

hills, medieval hilltop towns, and untouched coastline stretching towards

the Tyrrhenian Sea. Less travelled than the Chianti heartlands, this

south-western corner of the region is known for its fertile vineyards,

centuries-old olive groves, and a way of life shaped by the seasons. The

rhythm here is unhurried; days revolve around long lunches, gentle walks

through wildflower meadows, and the scent of rosemary carried on warm

breezes from the coast.

Amid this pastoral beauty, the Baccheschi-Berti family has reimagined

a 12th-century watchtower as Villa La Vedetta – a striking addition to the

historic Castello di Vicarello estate. The villa’s pair of bedroom suites each

feature en-suite marble bathrooms, one distinguished by a handcrafted

copper bathtub set against bold black-and-white chequered marble.

The ground floor is anchored by a grand stone fireplace and a

well-equipped kitchen, opening into a glass-walled winter garden with

vineyard views, while interiors blend antique furniture with bespoke

craftsmanship, and expansive glazed walls bring Mother Nature into

every space.

Outside, private gardens frame a heated pool, with a rooftop terrace

offering uninterrupted vistas across the surrounding hills.

Guests can arrange for an in-house chef ahead of arrival and enjoy the

estate’s range of experiences – from Tuscan cookery lessons and wine

tastings, to cycling through the rolling countryside.

Villa La Vedetta combines the privacy of a standalone residence with the

services and amenities of Castello di Vicarello, offering a stay rooted in the

traditions and flavours of the Maremma. www.castellodivicarello.com


THE EDINBURGH GRAND

EDINBURGH’S NEW TOWN IS A STUDY IN GEORGIAN

elegance, where ordered streets radiate from verdant

squares and centuries-old façades conceal a wealth of cultural

treasures. St Andrew Square, at the heart of it all, offers a

microcosm of the city’s grandeur – neoclassical porticos, statues to

Enlightenment thinkers, and sweeping views that lead the eye towards

the dramatic rise of the Old Town. From here, cobbled lanes wind

their way to the Royal Mile, Princes Street Gardens stretch below the

Castle’s ramparts, and the scent of roasting coffee mingles with the

salt tang from the Firth of Forth.

Into this tableau steps The Edinburgh Grand, now relaunched as

Scotland’s first Luxury Collection Hotel. Occupying a restored 1940s

Directors' Suite

former bank, its neo-classical façade and colonnaded entrance speak

to a heritage of substance, while the interiors blend period detail with

contemporary Scottish craftsmanship. The building’s centrepiece is its while service reflects The Luxury Collection’s philosophy of immersive,

soaring atrium, a space of light and symmetry that draws the eye upward, location-led hospitality. Guests may begin the day with bespoke local

while a grand helical staircase coils elegantly through the core – its

itineraries crafted by the concierge team, or end it with a dram in one of

geometric monochrome floor pattern a striking contrast to the building’s the hotel’s intimate lounges.

sandstone dignity.

Heritage features abound throughout the storied property. From

Perfectly placed just moments from Waverley Station and within walking

towering sash windows framing the skyline to carved stonework and

distance of the Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle, The Edinburgh Grand offers

panelled walls, now refreshed with warm, tactile finishes. Suites are

a stylish new chapter for one of the city’s most distinguished addresses.

designed in a residential style, each with a living and dining space,

www.theedinburghgrand.com

EDINBURGH SCOTLAND

43

SENTOSA ISLAND SINGAPORE

RAFFLES SENTOSA

SINGAPORE

SINGAPORE’S SENTOSA ISLAND IS A WORLD APART FROM

the city’s glass-and-steel skyline – a green sanctuary where

tropical gardens tumble towards sandy beaches and the air carries the

scent of frangipani. Labelled locally with the tagline “Where Discovery

Never Ends”, for its leisure attractions, Sentosa also holds quieter

secrets: shaded lanes lined with heritage trees, pockets of native forest

alive with birdsong, and gardens where the only movement is the slow

drift of a butterfly or the ripple of a frond in the breeze. Here, the sea

shimmers beyond palm-lined shores and the city feels a world away.

Within this lush setting and the brainchild of award-winning Yabu

Pushelberg, Raffles Sentosa offers a sumptuous new all-villa retreat

immersed in tropical splendour. The 100,000 square-metre estate is

spread across landscaped grounds alive with flowering plants and

broad-leafed foliage.

All of its 62 villas, each with its own private pool, are cleverly

positioned to ensure privacy and seclusion while keeping guests

enveloped in greenery. Winding pathways reveal unexpected bursts

of colour – a spray of white blossoms against polished green leaves,

a hint of pink in new growth – and lead to the towering presence of

preserved heritage trees, some centuries old and now protected

by preservation orders. These majestic specimens, with their

sculptural trunks and expansive canopies, lend a grounded sense of

permanence to the serene atmosphere.

The architecture throughout the property is low-rise and quietly

contemporary, using natural textures and open layouts to dissolve

the boundary between indoors and out. Each villa flows towards its

own terrace and pool, the edges softened by dense planting.

The resort’s sole two-bedroom Presidential Villa distils this

experience into its most refined form. A generous living and dining

space merges seamlessly with a master bedroom suite, all opening

onto a sprawling terrace designed for entertaining, complete with

an over-sized pool embraced by gardens. The mood is that of a


Presidential Villa


45

SENTOSA ISLAND SINGAPORE

RAFFLES SENTOSA

SINGAPORE

Chairman's Room

stylish and laid-back island residence, enhanced by the attentiveness

of Raffles’ renowned butlers, who smartly anticipate The Cultured

Traveller’s needs. Mornings see breakfast served al fresco as light

filters through the leaves, while evenings begin with a handcrafted

cocktail, timed to coincide with the setting sun.

Since gastronomy is integral to the resort’s character, there is

genuinely no need to leave, since it offers a variety of top-end on-site

dining options.

The elegant Raffles Room in the arrival pavilion is a natural gathering

spot day or night. Here, evenings begin with a signature Raffles Sentosa

Sling – a tropical reimagining of the brand’s legendary cocktail – before

moving to Empire Grill for contemporary Italian plates with a focus on

premium ingredients.

At Royal China, refined Cantonese cuisine is expertly prepared

by talented Chinese chef Ling Heng Yao with precision and flair,

while Iyasaka by Hashida offers an intimate and authentic omakase

experience, led by Japanese culinary master chef, Kazuya Nishino.

After dinner, the sophisticated Chairman’s Room is the place to kickback

and enjoy a digestif or rare spirit in quietly luxurious surroundings.

Whether the mood calls for a languid lunch, refined tasting menu,

or a poolside snack, every dining setting we experience perfectly

complements the island’s natural pace.

The hours happily stretch almost imperceptibly during The

Cultured Traveller’s stay. Early mornings carry the scent of flowers

accompanied by the calls of a family of hornbills which inhabits

the trees overhanging the villa. A pair of peacocks routinely amble

around the terraces surrounding the pool, their iridescent plumage

catching the sunlight. And as the daylight fades, heritage trees

stand silhouetted against a soft-lit sky, their outlines illuminated just

enough to reveal the texture of bark and the gentle sway of leaves.

Raffles Sentosa is much more than a resort; it is a cultivated

enclave where nature shapes every experience, privacy is inherent,

and service is delivered with the quiet confidence of a name

synonymous with hospitality. In the embrace of its botanical estate,

it offers a rare kind of seclusion – an island within an island, totally

in tune with its surroundings.

www.raffles.com/sentosa


WIN

A RESTORATIVE FOUR-NIGHT HALF-BOARD STAY FOR TWO PEOPLE IN

A DELUXE ROOM OVERLOOKING THE SOUTH CHINA SEA, COMPLETE

WITH TWO 60-MINUTE SPA TREATMENTS, ONE DINNER ON THE BEACH,

AND ROUND-TRIP FERRY CROSSINGS FROM SINGAPORE

PRIZE DRAW

escape to new

westin nirup

island resort

in indonesia

SET WITHIN INDONESIA’S

Riau Archipelago and just a

short ferry ride from Singapore, the new

Westin Nirup Island Resort & Spa offers

a sophisticated private-island retreat

where nature, wellness and contemporary

elegance are seemingly perfectly in tune.

And as the first private island resort of

its kind in the region, it brings a fresh

dimension of refined, eco-conscious

hospitality to this unspoilt corner of

Southeast Asia.

Arriving via a private marina, guests

are enveloped in a sense of cultivated

calm. Modern architecture with

indigenous accents blends effortlessly

into the landscape, while the subtle

rhythm of island life encourages

restoration and renewal.

A full-service spa offers natureinspired

therapies grounded in traditional

practices and modern wellness science,

while daily beachfront yoga and guided

outdoor rituals nurture both body and

mind. Dining is equally thoughtful, with a

range of venues offering global and locally

influenced cuisine in settings that range

from relaxed to refined.

Elegant, immersive, and inherently

restorative, Westin Nirup is an invitation to

return to balance, beauty, and stillness.

www.marriott.com/bthni

TO ENTER

Email your contact details to

➤ win@theculturedtraveller.com

The draw will take place on 1 December 2025 and

the winner will be notified privately via email. The

prize must be used before 1 December 2026 and

is subject to availability when booking. Blackout

dates may apply. The prize is not transferable to

another person. Rest assured that The Cultured

Traveller will not share your details with third

parties. Multiple entries will be disqualified. By

entering, entrants give their permission to be

added to The Cultured Traveller’s subscriber base.


49

SHANGRI-LA

YUNNAN PROVINCE, CHINA

Lamuyangcuo Lake and Songzanlin Monastery, Shangri-La, China

COVER

STORY

SHANGRI-LA

THROUGH SILENCE AND LIGHT, A CITY OPENS

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU FEELS INTENSE SPIRITUAL CALM WHILE EXPLORING THE

SILENT CHAMBERS AND GOLDEN ROOFTOPS OF SONGZANLIN MONASTERY, AND A SENSE

OF PEACE ACCOMPANIES HIM THROUGH THE CITY OF SHANGRI-LA

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIANXIN WENG

THE FIRST LIGHT IN RINGHA VALLEY

doesn’t so much arrive as emerge, slowly and

reverently, like a monk slipping into robes.

While most are still sleeping, it takes about

half-an-hour to reach Songzanlin monastery

complex from our lodgings at Banyan Tree Ringha, winding

past alpine meadows, barley fields, and homes adorned with

elaborately painted lintels. Here, in northwestern Yunnan, the

land has already tilted into the Tibetan Plateau. At more than

3,000 metres above sea level, the oxygen is thinner but the air

feels crystalline, somehow rinsed of impurities.

WHEN THE FRESH MORNING SUN BRUSHES THE

gilded rooftops of Songzanlin, the world all around seems to

falls silent. Even the ever-watchful dogs, usually territorial,

doze in the shadows. There are no tourists, nor the hum of

minivans. Just me, a photographer, and a local guide ascending

the broad stone steps, still slick with dew, towards the heart of

one of Tibetan Buddhism’s most significant living sanctuaries.

ALSO KNOWN BY ITS TIBETAN NAME, GANDEN

Sumtseling, the monastery is sometimes lazily described as

“the Little Potala Palace.” That comparison, though visually

understandable, feels like shorthand for those who haven’t

lingered long enough. For this is no replica. Founded in 1679

by the Fifth Dalai Lama and blessed as a centre of the Gelugpa

tradition, it remains the largest and most influential Tibetan

Buddhist monastery in Yunnan province, home to over 700

monks and an archive of centuries-old scriptures that have

survived wars, revolutions, and the rarefied air of time itself.

FROM AFAR, THE MONASTERY LOOKS LIKE AN

enormous, golden-crowned fortress rising above the lake and

hills, its ochre walls stacked like an ancient Himalayan city.

Up close, the structure unfurls into an orchestration of sacred

spaces: chanting halls with polished wood floors, courtyards where

novices hang robes to dry, and prayer wheels slowly turning.

THE SCALE OF THE PLACE ALONE IS MONUMENTAL.

Over 30 hectares of sloping ground are consumed by the

complex, but it is the quiet that first stops me in my tracks.

I stand at the main gate, ears ringing with the sort of silence

that can only be heard when every sound is deeply intentional.

Even our footsteps seem to hesitate, unwilling to intrude.

INSIDE THE MAIN ASSEMBLY HALL, HUNDREDS

of butter lamps flicker in golden unison, casting moving

shadows on faded thangka paintings and time-softened pillars.

The scent is unmistakable: incense mixed with yak butter,

varnished timbers, and the faint trace of juniper smoke. It feels

like every monk who has passed through has left something

behind. Yet while Songzanlin is undoubtedly a pilgrimage

site for Tibetan Buddhists, it is just as profoundly a spiritual

magnet for those outside the faith. Not because it explains


Songzanlin Monastery

Inside Songzanlin

Buddhism to visitors, but because it doesn’t try to. The

monastery doesn’t translate its soul. It simply opens its doors,

and invites you to walk softly in.

IN THE EARLIEST HOURS, BEFORE DAILY PRAYERS

or the trickle of tour groups, the sacredness of the place is

amplified. We are the only people present, and wander quietly

into side chapels watched by solitary caretaker monks, before

returning to their devotional murmuring.

We pass under carved lintels painted in deep vermilion

and lapis blue, through passageways flanked by heavy wooden

doors, and into a narrow upper hall where a young monk

crouches in the half-light, fingering a string of mala beads.

He looks up briefly, then turns his gaze back to the floor, his

maroon robes pooled like petals around him.

FROM THE UPPERMOST TIER, WE GAZE DOWN ONTO

Lamuyangcuo Lake, its mirror-like surface reflecting the very

walls of the monastery. In local belief, it is said to be a sacred

lake, inhabited by spirits and guardians of the land. As I

stand in stillness, a veil of morning mist lifts just enough to

reveal the pale crowns of the Baima Snow Mountains in the

distance, high above the surrounding ridgelines. Their chiselled

flanks glint with residual frost, glowing faintly beneath the

rising sun. For a fleeting moment, they seem less like geology

than silent sentinels watching, waiting, and blessing from afar.

Songzanlin’s ornate rooftops are one of its most arresting

visual features. At eye-level, I can trace their scalloped

edges, embellished with glinting copper tiles and crowned

by golden finials shaped like lotus buds and dharma wheels.

Dragon heads peer from the corners, their faces stylised yet

expressive, as though mid-incantation. Morning light hits the

rooftops at such an angle that they gleam not just brightly, but

purposefully, like instruments catching divine breath.

I’VE READ THAT THE DALAI LAMA, IN HIS WRITINGS,

describes peace not as a destination but as a presence, and one

that requires quiet, space, and openness to emerge. Standing

here, wind catching my scarf, sun warming my back, I

understand. This is it.

AND YET, DESPITE THE GRAVITY OF THE SITE, SIGNS

of ordinary life are not far away. Monks occasionally pass,

heads slightly bowed, their expressions composed but cautious.

Devotees add juniper branches and other aromatic herbs

to a large outdoor incense burner, known as a sangbum,

the fragrant smoke from which is believed to purity the

environment, please the deities, and carry prayers skywards.

EVERYWHERE, COLOUR TELLS A STORY: SAFFRON

cloths drape over stair rails; mandalas in fading paint adorn the

walls; doors are outlined in teal and black. Even the shadows have

a kind of weight here ‒ lengthened, reverent, and slow-moving.

LATER THAT MORNING, WE WALK AROUND THE LAKE

and pause on the far bank to properly take in Songzanlin

in all its majestic glory. As we look on, swans glide silently

through the water, their ripples gently disturbing the mirrored

reflection of gold roofs, mustard yellow and dark red walls.

The sun, now higher and more brilliant, strikes the upper tiers

of the temple compound, illuminating it from above in a way

that seems less meteorological than metaphysical. For a brief

moment, the monastery doesn’t just stand on the hillside ‒ it

radiates from it, moving me in the process.


55

Guishan Park Prayer Wheel

BY THE TIME WE RETURN TO OUR TRANSPORT, THE

stillness we had known so completely is beginning to dissolve.

Coaches idle at the entrance, their engines purring. Guides with flags

wait for tourists to disembark. I feel quietly but very thankful to

have experienced the monastery in the hush of early morning.

THE DRIVE BACK INTO THE CENTRE OF SHANGRI-LA

takes around fifteen minutes. It is now mid-morning, and the town

has begun to stir. A handful of shops have raised their shutters, while

a vegetable vendor arranges bitter greens on a crate beneath a blue

umbrella. A scooter rattles past, trailed by the faint scent of fried

dough. The spell of Songzanlin isn’t broken exactly, but it shifts.

WE PARK CLOSE TO THE ANCIENT TOWN OF

Dukezong and continue on foot. The town’s narrow lanes still

Dukezong

feel a tad subdued at this hour. Wooden buildings line the

cobbled streets. There are cafés, studios, art galleries, and

shops selling tourist tat. While Dukezong has its share of

souvenir stalls, it doesn’t feel overrun or ruined. Compared

with Dayan in Lijiang, this is a quieter place ‒ less polished,

more lived-in, and more authentic.

BUT BENEATH THE CALM SURFACE IS A STORY OF

loss. In 2014, a fire swept through much of the old town,

destroying more than 300 Tibetan homes and businesses.

The closely packed wooden structures were no match for the

flames. What remains today is a mix of salvaged buildings and

careful reconstruction. Craftsmen appear to have worked to

replicate lost elements using traditional joinery and pigments.

It isn’t an exact replica of what came before, but something of a

continuation, or a repaired thread in the town’s fabric.

ONE PARTICULAR BUILDING WAS UNTOUCHED:

Guangcheng Temple, sometimes called Cheng’en, which sits

quietly at the entrance to the old quarter. Centuries old,

somehow it miraculously escaped the fire. Inside, it is dim and

still. Butter lamps flicker in front of a gilded altar. There’s a

faint scent of pine. The space is small, but it holds itself with

quiet dignity. It feels older than the streets outside, and much

less disturbed by time.

FROM THE MAIN SQUARE, WE CLIMB FLIGHTS OF

stone steps to Guishan Park, the highest vantage point in the

old city. The path leads upwards through a canopy of cypress

57

Great Buddha Temple at Guishan Park

COVER STORY

SHANGRI-LA

Midway to Bai Ji Si Temple

Dabao Temple

and onto a broad terrace where the Great Buddha Temple

stands. Originally constructed during the Qing dynasty and

later restored, the temple forms part of a layered landscape

‒ one where history, ritual, and community meet. Its three

storeys rise quietly above the rooftops, framed by beams

painted deep red and gold, and a sky that seems closer here

than it should be.

To one side of the temple, a massive 60-ton gold-plated

bronze prayer wheel is turning, reputedly one of the world’s

largest. Some 21 metres tall, it is already in motion when

we arrive and does not stop turning. People come and go,

slipping into place and moving with it ‒ some in silence, others

whispering prayers. A keen line of hands keeps it rotating.

Bells chime softly in the breeze and from somewhere nearby

comes the low, melodic murmur of chanting.

NEXT, WE HEAD OUT OF TOWN AND WALK UPHILL

towards Bai Ji Si Temple. As we leave the last buildings

behind, the route heading up is almost deserted, marked

only by multiple strings of prayer flags. Literally meaning

“the temple of 100 chickens”, local Tibetans visit Bai Ji Si

to pray. On the way up, we meet a brightly-dressed Tibetan

lady with her grand-daughter, coming down. Friendly and

warm, she poses for us to take her photo.

At more than 3,200 metres up, getting to the temple is

not as easy as I anticipate. But the panoramic vistas from

the top, with the entirety of Shangri-La below, make the

short hike worthwhile.

ON OUR WAY BACK TO BANYAN TREE RINGHA, WE

stop at Dabao Temple, a former monastery built atop a

hillside above the valley. To reach it, I climb more than

200 stone steps, each one a little steeper in the thin air.

The stairs are flanked by trees and long strings of prayer

flags. I pause often, not just to catch my breath but to take

in the views.


59

COVER STORY

SHANGRI-LA

AT THE TOP, I’M GREETED BY A MONK. HE GESTURES

for me to enter. The interior is simple and quiet. Incense lingers

in the air. Butter lamps flicker near the altar. There’s no tour,

no signage – just space. We exchange nods. I stay for a few

minutes, listening to the stillness, then step back out into the

light. My descent is slower still. The walk, the welcome, and the

silence leave more of a mark on me than I expect.

SO MUCH HAPPENS IN A SINGLE DAY, THAT IT’S NIGH

on impossible to remember every moment. Some things are too

fleeting, too quiet, or too inward to recall. But everything leaves

something behind in me. The sereneness of Songzanlin just after

sunrise, sets the tone – not just for where I go, but how I move

through and appreciate each place that follows. Dukezong bustles

gently with its shops and teahouses. The great wheel at Guishan

turns without end. And the hills around Bai Ji Si and Dabao are

utterly still. Each place offers something different, but it is the

silence at the very start that shapes everything. Even

many hours later, I feel like I’m still being embraced by

that hush, as if Songzanlin hasn’t quite let me go.

BANYAN TREE RINGHA

S TAY

HONG PO VILLAGE, JIAN TANG TOWN, SHANGRI-LA COUNTY

SET WITHIN A SECLUDED HIGHLAND

valley around 30 minutes’ drive

from Songzanlin, Banyan Tree Ringha is a quietly

exceptional resort that blends effortlessly with its

dramatic natural surroundings, and offers guests

a rare encounter with living Tibetan culture in an

atmosphere of calm, craft, and connection.

MARKED BY A PAIR OF PRAYER-ADORNED

stupas, the entrance leads to a striking twostorey

lodge inspired by traditional Tibetan

farmhouses. From here, a short buggy ride

reveals a series of timber dwellings scattered

discreetly across the hillside ‒ each one

painstakingly reassembled from original

residences sourced in neighbouring villages.

These heritage lodgings are atmospheric

and lovingly composed, with polished floors,

carved doorways, deep soaking tubs, and heavy

beams that speak of generations past. Private

terraces overlook the steady flow of the Shu

Du Gang River, and mornings begin in rocking

chairs, accompanied by the scent of tea and

gently shifting light. In no time at all, The Cultured

Traveller is drawn into the serenity of the valley.

DINING IS UNDERSTATED BUT DISTINCTIVE.

Two on-site restaurants face the valley and are

fronted by an unpretentious terrace, allowing

the beautiful scenery to remain centre stage while

guests sip local wines. Seasonal menus centre

altitude-grown produce and ancestral culinary

traditions. Yak and wild greens feature often in

dishes that are honest, full-flavoured, and true to

place. A rustic, slow-cooked stew, featuring tender

braised yak meat simmered with golden potatoes in

a dark, savoury sauce, is particularly satisfying.

ROOTED IN HIMALAYAN HEALING WISDOM

and the Chinese Five Elements philosophy,

the resort’s inviting Banyan Tree Spa offers a

range of soul-soothing therapies, such as the

signature Ringha Relief. It is literally impossible

not to switch-off in the hands of a skilled

Banyan Tree therapist.

BEYOND THE PROPERTY, EXPLORATION IS

gentle and unforced. Guests can follow the river

on foot, through pastures dotted with livestock

and the occasional foal. Five minutes’ drive

away, Dabao Monastery, built into a slope and

accessed via more than 200 stone steps, offers

a glimpse into daily devotion, with visitors

welcomed unceremoniously into an incensescented

chamber where butter lamps flicker

and silence lingers.

BANYAN TREE RINGHA DOESN’T POSTURE

or perform. Instead, it draws strength from

its setting, in the embrace of Mother Nature,

and offers a rare sanctuary for those seeking

space, clarity, and cultural depth. For travellers

with intent, it rewards with a rare stillness and a

profound sense of place.

www.banyantree.com/china/ringha


61

E X T R E M E W O W S U I T E

W XI'AN, SHAANXI, CHINA

suit e envy

IN CHINA’S ANCIENT CAPITAL, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOUS CHECKS INTO

A THEATRICAL RESIDENCE OF SWEEPING CURVES, MIRRORED VOLUMES AND

CINEMATIC FLAIR, AND DISCOVERS A SPACE THAT BALANCES IRREVERENCE WITH

ELEGANCE, AND SPECTACLE WITH UNEXPECTED MOMENTS OF CALM

a hotel that rewrites

a city’s rhythm

Living Room by night (hotel lobby).

64

The Mystery of Golden Peach sculpture by Lin Lin

SUITE ENVY

W XI’AN

W

XI’AN DOES NOT WHISPER.

Far from it, in fact. The

hotel announces itself in

bold strokes of architectural

bravado ‒ sharp angles,

glowing façades, and angular, sweeping terraces that

ripple like digital silk on the banks of Qu Jiang Lake.

THE ARCHITECTURAL BRAINCHILD OF BEIJING

based A&S Architectural Design, the dramatic exterior

reinterprets the spatial rhythm and symmetry of the

Zhou, Qin, Han, Sui, and Tang dynasties, the result being

visually futuristic and culturally rooted in place ‒ an

illuminated landmark at the edge of one of Xi’an’s newest

cultural districts.

WITH THE FAMED BIG WILD GOOSE PAGODA

visible from many of its rooms and suites, W Xi’an is

surrounded by landscaped parks, museums, and public

art. Its exterior sculptural form very much reflects the

energy of a modern city in motion.

I ARRIVE LATE AT NIGHT TO A SPACE-AGE HOTEL

that is lit like a modern-day glowing pavilion beside the

water. And as my car pulls-up, I soon discover that the

theatrics continue inside. Despite being somewhat sleep

deprived, a soaring 17-metre-high atrium stops me in

my tracks and immediately elicits excitement within.

Dominated by a mammoth winding architectural light

installation above, and a glitzy mirrored staircase,

the space is alive with colour, movement, and

detailing, and is scattered with statement artworks.

References to Silk Road heritage appear abstracted:

in digital tapestries, Tang-inspired motifs, and

textured walls that unfold like scrolls. It’s obvious

from the get-go that this is not a nostalgic hotel ‒ it’s

a seriously cinematic one. And the drama of it all is

infectious.

WITH 385 ROOMS AND SUITES, A SPA, A VAST

gym, two swimming pools (including a massive indoor

pool), several restaurants and bars, and a ballroom,

W Xi’an was designed and built on a monumental

scale. Yet its most audacious hospitality experience

is reserved for a single space at the very top of the

building on the 26th floor, just beneath the hotel’s

helipad: the Extreme WOW Suite ‒ a vast twobedroom

residence that reimagines what a flagship

suite can be, in a city that knows a thing or two

about dynasties.

A MAMMOTH 560 SQUARE METRES DESIGNED

by AB Concept Hong Kong, the Extreme WOW

Suite at W Xi’an is one of the largest hotel suites in

northwest China, and almost certainly one of the

most dramatic. It’s also a rare thing in today’s hyperdesigned

hotel world: a space that surprises around

every turn.

Woo Bar

65

SUITE ENVY

W XI’AN

The lounge of the Extreme WOW Suite

FROM THE MOMENT I ENTER THROUGH TALL,

glossy double doors, it’s clear that this is no muted

sanctuary. The suite unfolds as a layered, curving,

and architecturally ambitious world ‒ one defined

not by restraint, but by rhythm. Floors are laid with

exotic Versace Black Granite quarried in Brazil, its

dark and moody swirls interspersed with curving

copper-gold inlays to break-up the vast swathes of

stone. Walls morph into everything from textured

surfaces to mirrored panels and more, drawing the

eye in and forwards, and making it clear that this is

no ordinary hotel experience.

CLEAN LINES AND TONAL TEXTURES THAT

echo W’s irreverent but design-forward DNA, are

the order of the day in the elliptical lounge space,

which is anchored by a pair of silver-toned curved

sofas resting on a deep pile rug, and is peppered

with small occasional tables. Watching over the room


The dining room of the Extreme WOW Suite

is a large, witty statement painting of a bulldog in

sunglasses, smoking a cigar, likelyattributed to

Brian Rubenacker, a contemporary American artist

known for his whimsical and character-driven animal

portraits. Lit in the style of a gallery piece, it injects

a sense of fun. An obligatory oversized television and

surround sound system seem diminutive in a space

which is evidently designed for entertaining.

CONNECTED TO THE LOUNGE, AN IMPRESSIVE

20-seat dining room, with a colossal circular table

set beneath a show-stopping kinetic chandelier, is

punctuated by an illuminated floor-to-ceiling wine

wall, and a large abstract polished metallic sculpture

‒ the latter an original creation by ATG BEYOND.

A space that balances event potential with a great

deal of visual punch, it is obviously best suited to a

grand celebratory gathering. Behind the wine wall,

an inobtrusive kitchenette allows for the discreet

preparation of canapés, or the opening of some of the

rare vintages on display.

EN ROUTE TO THE MASTER BEDROOM SUITE,

passing a guest toilet and cloakroom for hanging

visitors’ outerwear, and a more substantial kitchen

equipped for light cooking, a generously proportioned

second bedroom sports a pair of queen beds, a walk-in

wardrobe and its own bathroom, with a twin rainfall

shower and a deep soaking tub. Decorated in a slightly

more restrained palette, accented with pops of colour,

it is ideal for friends or younger guests and, like the

rest of the suite, is wired with touch-panel controls to

adjust the lighting, climate, and curtains.

THE MASTER BEDROOM SUITE IS AN

experience unto itself. A velvet headboard embroidered

with a galloping horse crowns a king-sized bed, which

looks small in the vast space, while an array of


67

Master bedroom


SUITE ENVY

W XI’AN

downlighters and small mirrored ceiling domes add

a theatrical feel. To one side of the room, an inviting,

velvet-clad tiered seating area, laden with scatter

cushions, is a much cosier zone for watching movies or

escaping the social energy of the living area.

THE STORAGE OF CLOTHES AND CASES IS

given its own architectural expression via a circular

wardrobe chamber: a sculptural, double-height walk-in

lined with textured panels and mirrored verticals. In

its centre, a large metallic circular pouffe sits under a

dramatic ceiling with optical lighting effects, while to

the sides sit two blush-toned velvet drawer towers. The

entire space is supremely glamorous.

THE MASTER BATHROOM TAKES INDULGENCE

beyond extravagance. Quite apart from the party-sized

walk-in rainfall shower and vast amounts of counter

space surrounding the double crystal sinks, sitting on

a raised pale quartzite platform with pink undertones,

is a square jacuzzi tub facing a concealed TV screen

and floor-to-ceiling skyline views. To one side, a

mosaic-tiled steam room curves like a hammam. And

next to it, a sauna lined with backlit salt bricks glows

amber in low light. Together, it all feels less like a hotel

bathroom and more like a private spa floating above

the city.

OUTSIDE EVERY WINDOW OF THE SUITE,

terraces wrap generously around the top of the building

offering multiple private panoramic vistas, spanning

the sculpted gardens of Qujiang Pool Heritage Park

below to the misty skyline beyond. At sunrise, the lake

shimmers with low golden light. One afternoon, I can

see mountains in the distance. And after dark, the

reflections of the building’s own lighting scheme flicker

across the water like silk in motion. With what feels like

the entire city of Xi’an at my feet, surrounding the suite

and visible from every room, there is little reason to

make the effort to descend to street level.

Master bedroom


69

Master bathroom


SUITE ENVY

W XI’AN

city, in the shadow of the hotel’s private helipad, I never

forget where I am. W Xi’an’s Extreme WOW Suite leaves

an impression that’s hard to replicate, and even harder

to describe without sounding melodramatic.

Walk-in wardrobe

WHAT’S MOST IMPRESSIVE ABOUT THE

hotel’s Extreme WOW Suite is not simply its scale,

but its point of view. This is not a beige box with

glossy finishes. Nor is it a penthouse retreat dressed

up in generic international style. It’s a suite with its

own tempo ‒ at once playful, elegant, and spatially

choreographed.

A HOSPITALITY PERFORMANCE PIECE

that happens to accommodate sleep, with its

sculpted furnishings, architectural flourishes and

unapologetically bold character, W Xi’an’s Extreme

WOW Suite is not just the flagship lodgings of a

landmark hotel ‒ it proposes an alternative to luxury

minimalism: something layered, expressive, and just a

little mischievous.

What should feel way over the top instead feels tightly

edited and executed with acute attention to detail. There’s

humour in the artwork, glamour in the materials, and

intelligence in the lighting. And above all else, there’s

originality. In a city famed for preserving the past, this

suite offers a confident glance into the future and insists

that travel, at its best, should still dazzle.

WHETHER HAVING SOME ME TIME IN THE

steam-room, perched at the bar in the master bedroom,

or standing on one of its terraces looking out across the

A stay in the Extreme WOW Suite at W Xi’an starts from

CNY 35,000 per night inclusive of breakfast and taxes.

https://w-hotels.marriott.com


71

İZZET

KERIBAR

A LIFETIME OF TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHY

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER CHATS WITH ONE OF TURKEY’S MOST ESTEEMED

VISUAL STORYTELLERS, WHOSE PHOTOGRAPHIC JOURNEY SPANS CONTINENTS

AND DECADES, REFLECTING ON LIGHT, MEMORY, AND THE ENDURING PULL OF

THE CAMERA, FROM POST-WAR ISTANBUL TO THE FAR CORNERS OF THE WORLD

Capadoccia in winter

ART

CULTURE

I

IN THE LAYERED SPRAWL OF ISTANBUL,

where history and modern life spill into one another

across steep streets and ferry crossings, İzzet Keribar

has spent decades quietly observing. Born in 1936 to a

Sephardic Jewish family in the city’s Taksim district,

Keribar grew up surrounded by the rich cultural mix that

defines Istanbul. He first picked up a camera as a teenager,

but it was during his military service in Korea in the

mid-1950s – working as an interpreter – that he began to

explore photography more seriously, capturing scenes that

spoke to his growing fascination with people and place.

After stepping away from photography for a time to

focus on business and family, Keribar returned in the

1980s and quickly made up for lost time. Today, his archive

numbers more than 1.5 million images, ranging from

Anatolian landscapes and Turkish synagogues to candid

moments on far-flung city streets. His careful use of light

and colour lends a quiet poetry to the everyday.

Recognised with a variety of international honours

– including the Chevalier dans l’Ordre des Palmes

Académiques from the French government in 1991 –

Keribar recently celebrated his long career with a major

retrospective at the Istanbul Modern. Journey of Colors

brought together 125 images spanning decades of travel,

observation and deep cultural curiosity.

His lens still drawn to the quiet stories unfolding

in plain sight, Keribar, now 88, continues to document

the world with quiet intensity – proof that some ways of

seeing only sharpen with age.

izzet_keribar_photography

Itchan Kala, the walled inner town of Khiva, Uzbekistan


ART CULTURE

İZZET KERIBAR

After high school, your father gave you a

Leica camera, which was quite a serious

gift for a teenager. How did it shape your

understanding of photography?

I was so excited by my new toy that I slept

with it beside me. I wanted that camera,

not only for its quality, but because it had

an interchangeable lens system. That

meant I could later buy telephoto and

wide-angle lenses. It cost around 950

Deutsche Marks, which was a significant

amount back then.

İzzet Keribar

You grew up in post-war Istanbul during

the 1940s. How did the atmosphere of

the city in those years shape your early

worldview and, ultimately, your instinct as

a visual observer?

When I think back, I instinctively picture

those years in black and white. Not only

because colour film like Kodachrome was

virtually impossible to find, but because the

city itself felt stripped of vivid hues – muted

and worn, yet rich in texture and shadow.

Post-war Istanbul wasn’t colourful in the

literal or emotional sense; life was subdued,

marked by scarcity and quiet resilience.

That visual simplicity defined how I began

to see. Black and white wasn’t just a

technical constraint – it became a way of

interpreting the world. Even in high school,

my classmates knew about my obsession.

They teased me about it constantly, but I

didn’t mind. I was already framing light,

contrast, and moments in my mind. That

era taught me to find depth not in colour,

but in form, shadows, and stillness.

In 1956, you served in South Korea as a

military translator. What did photographing

daily life there teach you about light, culture,

and composition?

One reason I volunteered for service in

Korea was my passion for photography.

The Cold War was still in full force. Amid

that tension, Korea became a formative

chapter in my life. I learned how to

approach people for portraits, improved

my sense of composition, and picked up

technical skills that shaped my future

work. Most importantly, I discovered how

photography could be a bridge. Though

I always worked with an interpreter, the

camera spoke its own language. Before

long, I was photographing senior officers

Itchan Kala city walls in Khiva, Uzbekistan

Your earliest forays into photography were

weekend walks around Istanbul with your

older brother. What do you remember

of those first moments seeing your city

through a lens?

From 1947 or 1948, I remember my

brother taking me on walks through old

Istanbul. I have three particularly vivid

memories from those early outings: the

ancient city walls, the interior of Hagia

Sophia, and a cistern – somewhere near

Hagia Eirene – that held a boat. I’ve

never managed to find it again.


ART CULTURE

İZZET KERIBAR

Two monks close to Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Angkor Wat, Cambodia

and was eventually appointed both

personal interpreter and photographer to a

Turkish Brigade General of 5,500 troops.

You then stepped away from photography

for some two decades. What prompted the

break, and what was photography missing

that you later found?

When I returned from Korea at 21, two

big things changed my life: My father had

relocated his business, and we opened a

shop specialising in glassware. Soon after,

I met the woman who would become my

wife. So, photography – once central to me

– was quietly set aside. I still took family

pictures, but the intensity had faded.

During that period, you turned your

attention to antiques, philately, and

business. Were there threads of curiosity or

visual thinking in those pursuits that later

returned in your photographic practice?

You could call me a “hobby man.”

I always strive for excellence. That

principle guided all my passions – from

memorising classical music scores to

collecting antiques. I became quite an

expert in late 18th-century Viennese

porcelain and also in old Swiss stamps.

I’m not entirely sure whether those years

sharpened my visual instincts, but I do

know that I always hear music in my

head when I take a photograph.

A trip to the United States in the early 1980s

marked your return to photography. What

did you see or feel during that trip that

reawakened your creative drive?

There were no direct flights to New York

in those days. On our return journey, we

had a layover in Amsterdam. Wandering

through Schiphol Airport, I found myself

outside a photography store. On impulse,

I asked my son if he wanted a camera.

He said yes, but before long, I was the

one experimenting with it. That’s how I

rediscovered something I hadn’t realised

I’d lost – my love for photography.


77

ART CULTURE

İZZET KERIBAR

When you returned, you joined the

Istanbul Photography and Cinema

Amateurs Association (İFSAK). How did

being part of that community shape your

artistic resurgence?

It gave me an outlet and a community.

Suddenly I was surrounded by people

who spoke my language – the language

of light, angles, and the decisive moment.

That renewed dialogue encouraged me to

take photography seriously again.

In 1984, you co-founded Group FOG, he one

of Türkiye's most successful and prolific

photography collectives. What did you hope

to explore through the collective that you

couldn’t alone?

We believed that by working together,

we could push photographic art further.

We had great fun shooting as a group,

then discussing and dissecting the

results. It was a formative and highly

collaborative period.

You’ve described this period as a “second

birth.” How did your work in the 1980s differ

in tone, subject, or intent from your earlier

black-and-white images?

It was absolutely a second birth. From

the 1980s on, photography reshaped

my life. I began shooting colour slides. I

no longer had a darkroom, and as a busy

businessman, I didn’t have the time. But

with slides, I could continue creating with

colour and light on my own terms.

Your work has taken you across continents

and cultures. What do you look for first when

photographing in an unfamiliar place?

My mind instinctively takes over. When

something worth photographing appears,

it sends me a quiet signal. I begin to move,

searching for the right angle, studying the

light, and waiting for a fleeting human

presence to enter the frame.

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Lake Ulubat, Bursa, Turkey


ART CULTURE

İZZET KERIBAR

You became a full-time professional

photographer in the 1990s. Was there a

moment when you knew photography had

become more than passion – that it was

now your life’s work?

Yes, towards the end of 1997, when I left

business behind. That was the moment I

fully committed.

At 68, you taught yourself Photoshop, a

feat many younger artists avoid. What

convinced you to embrace digital tools,

and how did they complement your

analogue instincts?

Anyone serious about digital photography

must learn Photoshop. I was one of

the first of my generation to trust and

embrace digital shooting. Those who

avoid it often don’t realise how fast the

world is evolving.

Can you describe your process of framing

a shot – is it instinctive, or shaped by years

of practice?

It’s instinctive. Once I sense a subject is

worth photographing, I begin composing,

especially if there’s a foreground that must

balance with the background. If there’s

architecture, I ensure it’s framed precisely.

Over time, things like the golden ratio

and diagonals became second nature. I’ve

also learnt to wait. Sometimes the image

is already there. Sometimes it needs a

gesture, a shadow, or a shift in light to

fully appear. The trick is knowing when to

pause, and when to click.

In a career filled with change, what has

remained constant in the way you see the

world through your lens?

The anticipation! Even now, before a day

of photography, I feel the same joy and

excitement as I did decades ago.

In 2018, you were awarded Turkey’s

Presidential Culture and Art Grand Prize.

Looking back, what did that recognition

mean to you?

At first, I thought, “Why me?” There

are so many outstanding photographers

in Turkey. But in time, I saw how the

award opened doors, especially when

seeking official permission to photograph

restricted locations. During the COVID

lockdowns, I was granted rare access to a

very deserted Istanbul.

Your 2023 exhibition Enchanted

City spanned over 70 years of

photographing Istanbul. What kind of

portrait of the metropolis did you hope to

reveal across such a vast timeline?

In the 1950s, everything felt normal.

No one imagined Istanbul would change

Venice Carnival, Italy

The Tetrapylon, Aydın Province, Turkey


81

An elderly man in Murree, Pakistan

İzzet Keribar in Namibia

so fast. The trams, the ferries, the people

– they’re mostly all gone now. I often

regret not photographing more.

But after seventy years, I’ve come to see

Istanbul not as a fixed subject, but

as something alive. My archive is a

mosaic of moods, seasons, contradictions

and silences. I never tried to show a

single truth – just the soul of the city,

piece by piece.

You live in Istanbul. What do you love

most about the city?

There are several places I love. The

Grand Bazaar, where architecture,

history and light all come together. The

Princes’ Islands, southeast of Istanbul in

the Sea of Marmara. The narrow streets

of the historic Balat district. And many of

the city’s iconic landmarks.

Earlier this year, Journey of Colors at the

Istanbul Modern brought together 125 images

from a lifetime of work. What was it like to see

your evolution presented in a single show?

It was one of the most important

exhibitions of my career, and the biggest.

It was open for more than six months and

introduced my work to many who’d never

encountered it before.

Your archive reportedly contains more than

1.5 million images. How do you even begin to

select what to show or revisit?

A large portion is on slides (1980–2004),

followed by DVDs, and now external

hard drives. Everything is backed up,

and our system lets us search using lowres

previews linked to high-resolution

originals. My assistant knows the archive

even better than I do!

Do you have any favourite hotels?

I always prefer hotels near the centre

of where I’m visiting, because I don’t

like wasting time getting to the heart

of things. I fondly remember Mandarin

Oriental Dhara Dhevi in Chiang Mai;

the original Oriental Hotel in Bangkok,

overlooking the Chao Phraya River,

which is now a Mandarin Oriental.

And the charming Hotel Dvořák in the

historical centre of Český Krumlov, in

the Czech Republic.

And finally, with such a rich archive behind you,

what compels you to continue? Are there still

places or stories you feel drawn to capture?

It’s the fire that still burns within me.

It keeps me physically strong and sharp

in memory, able to walk for hours with

my camera. Even now, I’m inspired by

forgotten corners, fleeting gestures,

quiet human stories. As long as there

is light and shadow – and a

moment worth honouring – I

will keep photographing.

Deadvlei, Namibia


ART CULTURE

İZZET KERIBAR


83

DESTINATION

SPOTLIGHT

RUB’ AL KHALI

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

arabia’s silent yet

powerful heart

A FEW HOURS’ DRIVE FROM DUBAI, ON THE EDGE OF ARABIA’S FABLED EMPTY QUARTER,

THE ROAD DISSOLVES INTO GOLDEN DUNES AND SOLITUDE AND SILENCE TAKE HOLD.

ASHLEE STARRATT VENTURES DEEP INTO THIS STORIED DESERT, TRACING THE

FOOTSTEPS OF ANCIENT TRIBES AND UNCOVERING THE SECRETS OF THE SANDS

Camels in Rub' Al Khali

85

THERE ARE PLACES IN THIS WORLD

where time seems to stretch, where human

footprints are swept away in minutes, and

silence reigns with a presence as formidable

as any landscape. Rub’ al Khali, or the

“Empty Quarter” as it is known in English, is one such place.

ARABIA’S LARGEST, MOST UNFORGIVING, AND

MOST desolate desert, spanning some 650,000 square kilometres

between four countries in the Arabian Peninsula – the United Arab

Emirates, Saudi Arabia, Oman, and Yemen – this is the world’s

largest uninterrupted sand desert, a hypnotic expanse of windcarved

dunes and blazing light where myth, mirage, and memory

collide. For those not employed by the oil industry in Rub’ al Khali,

day-to-day life has changed little during the past several hundred

years. Family, camels, goats, fire, tribal traditions and Islam

dominate for the few remaining Bedouin who still reside here.

WITHIN THE UAE, THE EMPTY QUARTER UNFURLS

across the western reaches of Abu Dhabi’s Al Dhafra Region,

reaching towards the Saudi border in a breathtaking vision

of searing ochres and shadowed valleys. While the very name

suggests absence, this place is anything but empty. For the

patient traveller willing to embrace its stillness, the Rub’ al

Khali reveals not only otherworldly beauty but also a rich

cultural and ecological heritage stretching back centuries.

SOME 180 KILOMETRES SOUTHWEST OF ABU DHABI,

just beyond the fertile periphery of the Liwa Oasis, the road

narrows, the sand thickens, and the sky seems to broaden,

as if subtly crossing a threshold and entering the Liwa region

proper, a landscape both culturally significant and geologically

dramatic. Once an important trade route for Bedouin caravans

navigating the date palm-fringed oases of southern Abu Dhabi,

Liwa is steeped in the history of the Bani Yas tribe, whose

lineage includes the Al Nahyan ruling family.

THE LIWA CRESCENT – A CHAIN OF 50-ODD VILLAGES

nourished by underground aquifers – fans out like an emerald

necklace across the desert floor. This area was once the

southernmost inhabited region of the UAE, long before oil

shifted the centre northwards. Even today, settlements

such as Mezairaa retain their historical character. Life

here follows an older rhythm, one dictated by wind, heat,

and groundwater, where the day’s pace still echoes with the

customs of desert life.

AT ITS HEART STANDS MEZAIRAA FORT, AN EARLY

20th-century structure whose circular watchtowers speak

to a time when tribes defended their water sources and

livelihoods from rival clans. Built from mudbrick and stone,

the fort is a living memory of the region’s tribal resilience and

self-sufficiency. Though modest in size, it commands a quiet

dignity, standing as a sentinel to stories long since whispered

into the dunes.

TO THE WEST, ADVENTURE SEEKERS CAN ASCEND

Tel Moreeb (literally “the Scary Hill”), a dune standing over

300 metres tall with a 50-degree incline, ranked among the

highest sand hills in the world. It is the site of an annual

motorsports festival that draws thrill-seekers from across the

Gulf. Yet even without engines roaring up its slopes, Moreeb’s

sheer scale is humbling, and the view from the summit – an

ocean of rippled amber dunes in every direction – offers one

of the most powerful visual experiences in the UAE. From up

here, the world feels paused.

OTHER NEARBY ATTRACTIONS, LIKE THE LIWA

Date Festival, held each summer in Al Dhafra, showcase the

enduring agricultural legacy of the oasis, with regional farmers

competing for the finest fruit. The date palm – so deeply tied to

survival and hospitality in the desert – remains central to daily

life in this region, a link between past and present.

Liwa Date Festival

Desert hyacinths


SPOTLIGHT

RUB’ AL KHALI

Mezairaa Fort


87

FOR THOSE SEEKING QUIETER CONTEMPLATION,

the desert is filled with secrets: Cistanche tubulosa, or desert

hyacinths, which bloom unexpectedly after rare rains, are

parasitic plants that have no chlorophyll, and are totally

dependent on a range of host plants. Or you might sense the

quiet rustle of a sand gazelle disappearing into some nearby

scrub. Blink, and it is gone – a ghost of the wilderness.

IT’S GOLDEN HOUR WHEN WE APPROACH THE EDGE

of the Rub’ al Khali, the road ahead etched in shadow and

glint. The highway out of Abu Dhabi gradually melts into a

ribbon of tarmac framed by sand that grows more assertive

with every kilometre. What confronts me is a pared-back

palette of caramel dunes, powder-blue skies, and the

occasional nomadic tree clinging to life.

AS THE LAST RADIO TOWER FADES IN THE

rearview mirror, so too does the sense of modernity.

The world becomes elemental: wind, heat, light. Even

sound changes. There’s a hushed quality to the desert here,

as if the air absorbs more than it reflects, each movement

echoing with its own quiet resonance. One’s own breath

feels amplified.

NIGHTFALL BRINGS AN ENVELOPING DARKNESS,

pierced only by the headlights of our 4x4 as we carve a winding

trail through the dunes. Shadows flit at the edge of vision – a fox,

perhaps, or a desert hare. It’s not uncommon to encounter wildlife

here. Arabian oryx, once hunted to near extinction, now roam freely

in protected reserves. Slender-horned gazelles, red foxes, and even

wild cats eke out a life from this improbable environment.

SUNRISE IN THE DESERT IS UNLIKE ANYWHERE

else. First comes the hush of colour – a pale bruise of lavender

and rose creeping across the sky – followed by a crescendo of

warmth as ochre spills across the sand. Our morning begins

astride dromedaries, their gentle sway carrying us across

undulating terrain that feels ancient and unknowable.

OUR GUIDE, DRESSED IN FLOWING WHITE ROBES,

points to the tell-tale signs of life: delicate lizard tracks that

seem embroidered across the sand’s surface; hardy desert shrubs

that bloom in defiance of logic, fed by invisible networks of

groundwater. He plucks a succulent sprig from one such plant

and hands it to us – salty, crisp, not unlike samphire – and

explains how the Bedouin use it for nourishment and hydration.

For them, the desert is not barren, but alive with possibility.

Tel Moreeb

SPOTLIGHT

RUB’ AL KHALI

LATER, FROM THE SUMMIT OF A DUNE, THE ENTIRE

Rub’ al Khali opens out before us, its layered ridges brushed

with morning light. Though the vista appears motionless, the

dunes are always in flux – constantly shaped and reshaped

by the wind, telling a different story each day. Silence reigns

again, not as emptiness, but as invitation.

THE DESERT, BY DAY, IS DAZZLING. BY NIGHT, IT IS

divine. With no light pollution for hundreds of kilometres, the

stars arrive in majestic procession. The constellations emerge

one by one – Orion, Cassiopeia, the Pleiades – and then

the great arc of the Milky Way makes its presence known,

stretching across the heavens like a cosmic river.

AS WE SETTLE ON CARPETS BY A LOW FIRE, THE

scent of burning oud drifts through the air. Local musicians

tap on hand drums and chant traditional poetry. A falcon,

its eyes hooded, rests on the leather glove of its handler,

embodying the enduring art of falconry that has passed down

through Emirati generations.

OUR FINAL MORNING IS RESERVED FOR DUNEbashing

– a visceral, high-octane encounter with the

topography itself. Careering across 40-metre ridges in a

powerful off-road vehicle, we experience the full drama of the

terrain. The desert, in this moment, becomes a force to be

wrestled with – both exhilarating and overwhelming.

When we step out, breathless and dusted with fine sand,

there’s a sense that we’ve not just explored a landscape, but

entered into a dialogue with it. The Rub’ al Khali is not a place

that offers answers. It presents instead a mirror – for solitude,

for reflection, and perhaps for understanding something beyond

the visible world. As Antoine de Saint-Exupéry wrote, “What

makes the desert beautiful is that somewhere it

hides a well.” The Empty Quarter doesn’t just hide

a well. It holds the soul of Arabia.


QASR AL SARAB

DESERT RESORT

NEAR LIWA, TWO HOURS FROM ABU DHABI

S TAY

RISING FROM THE ENDLESS OCHRE SANDS OF THE LIWA

Desert like a vision from a storybook, Qasr Al Sarab

Desert Resort by Anantara possesses an almost mythical presence.

Reached after a journey of some two hours from Abu Dhabi, the

drive itself is part of the seduction - mile upon mile of sculpted dunes

shifting with the wind, before the resort’s crenellated silhouette finally

appears against the horizon.

OPENED IN 2009 AND DESIGNED TO EVOKE A DESERT FORTRESS,

Qasr Al Sarab blends architectural authenticity with polished comfort.

Carved wooden doors, ornate lanterns, and colonnaded courtyards

create an atmosphere steeped in Arabian heritage, while expansive

terraces and arched windows frame the hypnotic panorama beyond.

The resort’s 207 keys - rooms, suites, and pool villas - are all generously

proportioned, their interiors dressed in rich textiles and earthy tones

that mirror the desert’s shifting palette. Private plunge pools, shaded

daybeds, and deep soaking tubs invite a slower rhythm, one that

matches the land’s timeless pace.

THE ANANTARA SPA IS A SANCTUARY WITHIN A SANCTUARY, WHERE TREATMENT

pavilions look out over the dunes and therapies draw on both Middle Eastern traditions

and Asian wellness rituals. Days can be as languid or as active as one chooses: sunrise

camel treks, fat-bike excursions, dune bashing, and archery sessions offer glimpses into

desert life, while the free-form adults only infinity pool provides a serene counterpoint.

HELMED BY RENOWNED CHEF GIUSEPPE “PINO” LAVARRA, DINING AT QASR

Al Sarab is a celebration of the setting as much as the food. Poolside AMANIE

restaurant serves relaxed Mediterranean-inspired cuisine, while the fare is more

refined at rooftop Suhail. And the distinctive Levantine flavours of Al Falaj are central

to al fresco desert feasts and bespoke dining experiences.

AS NIGHT FALLS, THE RESORT BECOMES AN ISLAND OF FLICKERING LIGHT IN A VAST

ocean of sand. The silence is profound, broken only by the faint whisper of wind across

the dunes. Qasr Al Sarab is not merely a place to stay. It is an immersion into the desert’s

poetry, and a rare union of solitude, beauty, and attentive hospitality that lingers in the

mind long after the last grains of sand are shaken from one’s shoes.

www.anantara.com/en/qasr-al-sarab-abu-dhabi

GRANADA

NICARAGUA

GRAN

nicaragua’s captivatin

CITY

FOCUS

ADA

g former capital

ENCHANTED BY ITS COLOURFUL 17TH CENTURY ARCHITECTURE

AND UNIQUE FRONTIER-LIKE SPIRIT, ALEX BENASULI EXPLORES

THE COLONIAL STREETS OF THE SPANISH-BUILT FORMER

CAPITAL OF NICARAGUA - COSTA RICA’S EDGY NEIGHBOUR

CITY FOCUS

GRANADA

STRADDLING BOTH THE CARIBBEAN AND THE

Pacific, Nicaragua may not be the first destination

one considers for a culture-rich getaway. Indeed,

mention the country to friends and you may be met

with blank stares or hesitant frowns – a legacy of its

bloody 1980s revolution and the economic turmoil that followed.

For decades, the largest nation in Central America was a

virtual no-go zone. Yet today, for those in the know, Nicaragua

elicits admiring nods and murmurs of approval. After years in

the wilderness, this compelling country is having a moment,

fast becoming a sought-after travel destination – helped in no

small part by its relative affordability.

NOW CONSIDERED A HOTSPOT BY SOME, NICARAGUA

frequently appears on ‘where to go now’ lists. Surfers are drawn

to the rugged, untamed beauty of its Pacific coastline, while its

Caribbean side boasts powdery white beaches, tranquil waters,

and a distinctly tropical flavour.

OFFERING MUCH OF WHAT COSTA RICA DOES IN

terms of beaches and biodiversity, but with far fewer tourists,

Nicaragua is a paradise for travellers in search of raw

natural beauty and genuine cultural encounters. A nation

of criollos (people of Spanish descent) and mestizos (of mixed

European and indigenous heritage), it radiates a conservative

yet colourful charm.

AT THE HEART OF THIS CAPTIVATING LAND, GRANADA

is arguably the best place to begin. Access is straightforward

from North America, with direct flights to the capital,


Our Lady of The Assumption Cathedral

Managua, from Houston, Atlanta, and Miami – the latter

little more than two hours away. From Managua, it’s just

a 45-minute drive to Granada, where vibrant colours,

arresting architecture and animated street life have

established the city as the undisputed star of Nicaragua’s

burgeoning tourism scene. Increasing numbers of curious

visitors are discovering Granada’s laid-back appeal – a city

that positively hums with character.

ALONGSIDE ANTIGUA IN GUATEMALA, GRANADA

was, for centuries, one of the most prominent cities in

Central America – a thriving hub of commerce, culture and

governance after the Spanish conquest in the 16th century. In

1524, conquistador Francisco Hernández de Córdoba founded

Granada atop a thriving Indigenous settlement, making it

one of the earliest European-established cities on mainland

America. It was named after its Andalusian namesake and

nicknamed “La Gran Sultana” in reference to its distinctly

Moorish aesthetic – think concealed courtyards, wrought-iron

accents, and Islamic-inspired geometry.

GRANADA WAS ONE OF THE FIRST CITIES IN THE

Americas to be built on a grid, making it delightfully walkable.

The perfect place to begin is Parque Central, a leafy plaza at the

city’s heart. Flanked by low-slung colonial buildings in cream

and white, with arches and baroque embellishments, this lively

square offers a snapshot of daily life. The bold yellow neoclassical

cathedral – first erected in 1583 and rebuilt in 1856 – anchors

the scene, while palms, mango and ficus trees shade a central

fountain. Children chase each other. Pensioners swap gossip.


95

CITY FOCUS

GRANADA

Guadalupe Church

Street vendors sell vibrant crafts from neighbouring towns.

Local delicacies abound, from vigorón – a zesty mix of fried pork

rinds, mashed yuca and pickled cabbage served on a plantain

leaf – to quesillos, soft tortillas with cheese, pickled onion, and

sour cream. Late afternoon is the best time to visit, as the park

springs to life in a whirl of colour, music and movement, like

something from the pages of García Márquez.

ON THE WESTERN SIDE OF PARQUE CENTRAL,

brightly painted horse-drawn carriages congregate, offering

tours. A leisurely ride through the city’s narrow streets is an

excellent way to get your bearings before exploring on foot.

While most drivers are reasonably knowledgeable of their city’s

history, it’s worth confirming whether English is spoken before

you set off!

THERE ARE SEVEN MAIN CHURCHES IN GRANADA.

With its elaborate baroque-revival architecture and vivid

colour scheme, Iglesia de Xalteva (Xalteva Church), on the

western edge of the city centre, is definitely worth seeing.

Apart from Our Lady of The Assumption, Granada’s

main cathedral, Iglesia La Merced, dating back to 1534, is

probably the city’s most beautiful. Just a few blocks west

of Parque Central and originally completed in 1539 but

rebuilt a number of times since, La Merced is fronted by a

beautiful (if slightly crumbling) baroque façade dating back

to the 1780s. Inside, a simple although somewhat austere

mostly white interior is home to a number of religious icons,

including an important image of the Virgen de Fátima.

Visit La Merced at sunset, for its adjacent bell tower offers

impressive 360-degree views over Granada’s tiled rooftops


Contemporary Five-Star Luxury In The Heart of Ljubljana

Rising above the Slovenian capital with sweeping views towards Ljubljana Castle, the

Grand Plaza Hotel and Congress Centre is a striking modern landmark just steps from the

heart of the city. Its sleek glass façade conceals interiors of polished restraint, where 354

contemporary guest rooms and suites are complemented by refined dining spaces and a

sky bar that gazes across the red-tiled rooftops. A sophisticated hub for business and

leisure alike, the property offers the city’s largest congress facilities while remaining

within easy reach of Prešeren Square, Tromostovje, and Ljubljana’s beguiling Old Town.

Xalteva Church


CITY FOCUS

GRANADA

towards Mombacho Volcano and Lake Nicaragua. At dusk the

light is sublime.

BACK ON STREET LEVEL, GRANADA’S FASCINATING

past and pulsing present coexist seamlessly. Street after street of

buildings, painted every colour of the rainbow, add joy and lightheartedness

to the city’s period architecture. Every church, square

and corner has a different story to tell. At various points in time,

Granada was the capital of Nicaragua and one of the wealthiest

cities in Central America. Hence gracious homes, grand civic

buildings, and impressive religious landmarks abound. However,

Granada was also invaded and burned to the ground by pirates

and foreign mercenaries and rebuilt a number of times. Despite

this, there is scarcely a building newer than the early 1900s.

BARELY 300 METRES FROM LA MERCED ON CALLE

La Calzada, Casa de los Tres Mundos stands right on the edge of

Plazuela de los Leones, the short, flat route taking you through

streets full of historic architecture, cafés, and galleries.

Founded in 1986 by Austrian actor and author Dietmar

Schönherr, and Nicaraguan poet, priest and politician Ernesto

Cardenal, Casa de los Tres Mundos is an international cultural

centre that initiates, supports and promotes cultural projects

in Nicaragua and Central America via artistic, musical

and educational activities. The foundation also finances

and coordinates an integrative rural development project in

Malacatoya. Housed in the historic 1720 Casa de los Leones

building, with a beautiful neoclassical façade, at the entrance,

a board lists forthcoming special events including poetry

readings, classical ballet, folkloric dance and free movies.

The entrance fee also includes access to the mansion.

https://c3mundos.org/en

JUST A FEW MINUTES’ STROLL FROM CASA DE LOS

Tres Mundos, on the corner of Calle Real Xalteva and

Avenida Guzmán, you will find one of Granada’s most


99

CITY FOCUS

GRANADA

striking buildings. Fronted by a pale blue façade, Iglesia

San Francisco was originally constructed in 1585, was

subsequently burned to the ground by pirates, and was later

rebuilt by William Walker in 1868. In 1989 the historic

monastery was restored, and is now home to a beautiful

museum which chronicles Granada’s religious history.

Museum highlights include top-notch Primitivist art and

the Zapatera statuary, two regiments of black-basalt statues

looming above large men, carved between AD 800 and 1200,

then left behind on the ritual volcanic island of Isla Zapatera

in Lake Nicaragua.

DEPENDING ON THE SEASON OF YOUR VISIT, YOU

might like to break up your day with a visit to Granada’s

ChocoMuseo, which offers an immersive overview of the

history, cultivation, and production of cacao and chocolate.

When the Mayans discovered nutrient-rich chocolate

2,000 years ago, and made it available to all classes of its

society, little did they know that it would become a coveted,

worldwide superfood. At ChocoMuseo, you can participate

in the chocolate-making process, including roasting and

grinding cacao, and making chocolate bars and drinks. A

café and gift store complete the sweet experience.

https://hocomuseo.com/granada

REFRESHINGLY, INTERNATIONAL RETAIL CHAINS

are almost entirely absent in Granada. Its authenticity is key

to the city’s charm. Framed between a majestic volcano and

an immense lake, the city also makes a superb base for nature

lovers and thrill-seekers.

Dominating the horizon is Volcán Mombacho, rising to

nearly 1,400 metres. Though dormant since 1570, the volcano is

still classed as active. A cloud forest nature reserve blankets its

slopes, accessible via a visitor centre near the summit.

GUIDED HIKES RANGE FROM GENTLE TO THE

strenuous four-hour Puma Trail, and it’s advisable to prepare

for a sharp drop in temperature at the top. Weather permitting,

the views of Granada and Lago de Nicaragua below are

breathtaking – a patchwork of lake, forest and colonial rooftops

framed by drifting mist.

Adventurous types can pair a hike with a canopy zip-lining

experience – a thrilling ride from platform to platform high

above the forest floor. Professional staff ensure my safety and I

am delivered to the other end in one piece!

AT SOME POINT, LAKE NICARAGUA (ALSO CALLED

Lake Cocibolca) beckons. The largest freshwater lake in Central

America and 20th largest globally, it spans more than 8,000

Volcán Mombacho

CITY FOCUS

GRANADA

Las Isletas

A turquoise-browed Motmot, Nicaragua’s national bird


101

Sunset on Calzada Street

square kilometres and is home to unique ecosystems – including

its famed freshwater sharks. From the lake’s expanse and river

systems came the pirates who once plundered Granada. Its scale

feels oceanic, with choppy waves and sudden storms.

A FEW KILOMETRES FROM THE CITY LIES LAS

Isletas, a necklace of over 360 islets formed when Mombacho

last erupted. Calm, wildlife-rich and scenic, this archipelago

offers tranquil boat or kayak excursions. Stay overnight on a

private island and you might, like me, unexpectedly become a

birdwatcher – captivated by herons, cormorants and ospreys

fishing in the shallows.

ABOUT 30 MINUTES’ DRIVE IN THE OPPOSITE

direction lies the mystical Laguna de Apoyo, a crater lake

formed in the caldera of an extinct volcano 20,000 years ago.

Approximately 6 kilometres wide and 175 metres deep, this

shimmering natural pool is fed by underground springs and

famed for its warm, mineral-rich waters – long believed to have

healing properties. Surrounded by thick forest, it’s a beautiful

spot for swimming, with access via various lodges and ecoresorts

along its shore. Indeed, an afternoon I spend on the

shores of Laguna de Apoyo is exceptionally blissful.

FOR SWEEPING VIEWS, HEAD TO CATARINA, A

hilltop town known for artisanal woodworking and lush

nurseries. The 180-degree vantage point from the town reveals

the full majesty of Laguna de Apoyo in all her glory. To see

the bright blue waters ringed by the rim of the former volcano

is spectacular.

LASTLY, 25 KILOMETRES SOUTHEAST OF MANAGUA

sits Volcán Masaya, one of Nicaragua’s most active. It’s among

the few places worldwide where you can drive to the rim and

gaze directly into a bubbling lava lake. An evening tour of

Masaya is invariably a highlight of any visit to Nicaragua, so

visit at dusk and you’ll be back in Granada in time for dinner –

the glowing crater etched into memory.

THOUGH BUZZING COMPARED TO ITS SURROUNDINGS,

Granada retains a languid, tropical rhythm. The arrival of

stylish boutique hotels and creative new restaurants has

propelled it onto global travel hotlists, but the city remains lowkey

and deeply atmospheric.

Sitting in the dappled courtyard of a charming hotel or

private villa, sipping a fresh fruit juice or an icy Toña beer,

is the essence of a Granada escape. When the heat of the day

fades, it’s time to set off again, drifting down unexplored

alleys, discovering tucked-away churches or stumbling across

a neighbourhood cantina. This, ultimately, is

Granada’s enduring appeal – a place to meander,

meander some more, and embrace the unexpected.


MUSIC

CULTURE

gloria

estefan

STILL FULL THROTTLE

AFTER FIVE DECADES

FROM TOPPING CHARTS WITH A NEW SPANISH-LANGUAGE ALBUM

TO CO-CREATING A BROADWAY MUSICAL ROOTED IN HOPE AND

COMMUNITY, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU CHATS WITH ONE OF LATIN

MUSIC’S MOST ENDURING ICONS ABOUT LEGACY, EVOLUTION, AND WHY

HER CURRENT WORK MAY BE SOME OF HER MOST POWERFUL YET

IT’S BEEN HALF A CENTURY

since a teenage Gloria Estefan

stepped into a Miami rehearsal

room and began a journey that

would change the sound of popular

music. Today, she stands not only as the most

successful Latin crossover artist in history,

but also as a cultural force whose influence

transcends charts and genres. With over 100

million records sold, nine Grammy Awards,

and a Presidential Medal of Freedom,

Estefan has long since earned her icon

status. But the remarkable thing is that she’s

still moving forward.

IN 2025, ESTEFAN IS MARKING HER

50th career anniversary not with nostalgia,

but with creative urgency. Raíces, her first

all-Spanish-language album in 18 years,

was released in May and has already

claimed multiple Billboard No.1 spots.

Rooted in heritage yet boldly modern, it’s a

powerful reaffirmation of her Latin musical

identity. And she’s not stopping there..

Next year, Broadway will hear a new

voice – or rather, many – in Basura, the

musical she’s co-writing with her daughter

Emily. Inspired by the Paraguayan youth

orchestra born from a landfill, the show

champions hope and artistry against

the odds. It’s currently in workshop, with

previews scheduled for Atlanta in May 2026.

And then there’s the screen. 26 September

2025 sees the Unites States nationwide

release of Gabby’s Dollhouse: The Movie, in

which Estefan lends her voice to Gabby’s

grandmother, in DreamWorks’ first cinematic

outing for the hit children’s series.

STILL FIERCELY RELEVANT AND

culturally resonant, Gloria Estefan remains

a master of evolution – whether performing,

producing, or penning music with her

family. She isn’t merely looking back; she’s

redefining what it means to be a legend with

every step forward.

https://gloriaestefan.com

Gloria recording in her twenties

i have too much respect

for music and art to ever

attempt to do something

simply because it may be

what’s popular at the time


MUSIC CULTURE

GLORIA ESTEFAN

Fifty years into an extraordinary career, how does it feel

to be marking such a milestone not by looking back, but by

releasing new music and working on future-facing projects?

Emilio and I have always lived life looking forward. We’ve

learned a lot from our decades in business but still retain,

honour and feel the same excitement we had from day

one each time we have a new project to share with the

world. We also feel incredibly blessed and know that it’s a

privilege that the public still shows interest and love for

our music.

What inspired you to return to Spanish for Raíces,

and what emotional or cultural resonances does

this album hold that your English-language work

perhaps never could?

Spanish is my native tongue and is still the language of

my heart, whereas English is more the language of my

head. This album feels like a full circle moment returning

to the rhythms and genres that I first listened to in the

records my grandmother would smuggle from Cuba to my

mother in Miami inside mango baby food boxes. It was

the only flavour I would eat and they did not sell it in the

states so my grandmother would show up at the airport

and somehow convince pilots from Cubana De Aviacion

to hand deliver a case of baby food to us in Miami. My

mother would play records by Cachao, Celia Cruz, and

Orquesta Aragon (among others) to cheer me up our tiny

apartment in Miami; she would dance with me, and I

would learn songs and sing them a cappella when I was

a toddler. So, singing the songs on Raíces felt like a fullcircle

moment. And, although it wasn’t planned this way,

because we started working on the album two years ago,

Emilio and I feel that it’s very timely, in that this is an

important moment to show pride in our roots, in who we

are as Hispanic immigrants, and to celebrate our beautiful

Spanish language.

An early Miami Sound Machine concert

Emilio and Gloria Estefan

The title track of Raíces has topped Billboard charts

– did you anticipate that a project so deeply personal

would resonate so powerfully on a global scale?

I never try to second-guess how our music will perform on

the charts because there are many different factors that

contribute to that phenomenon. But I do believe that the

listener can feel the honesty in a performance or in a song

and that it contributes to the connection the song makes

with the listener. The fact that so many people have

shown love and appreciation for this album, and that it

has translated to having it climb the charts, is a beautiful

by-product of an album that has truly connected. And

having that response happen in my 50th year as a

performer is truly special.

You’ve described Raíces as a journey back to your

musical foundations. Which rhythms, memories, or

ancestral sounds did you feel most compelled to honour?

I love all of the tropical rhythms that we celebrate on this

album; Son, Son Montuno, Bolero, Cha Cha, Danzon and

what they started calling “Salsa” in the 70’s, which is a

variation of the Cuban Son Montuno with more energy

and very tight horn arrangements. I feel very much at

home in these genres, and have been given the privilege

of exploring, not only these Cuban rhythms, but also

the variations of those African roots that mixed with

European influences in our different Latin American

countries and the Caribbean.

In creating Raíces, did you uncover aspects of your

own identity or musical instincts that had previously

been tucked away or unexplored?

What I discovered on this album, that I had not

previously experienced, was the pleasure of recording

songs that I already knew deeply and felt incredibly

free performing. Emilio had been writing, producing,

and sharing the songs with me throughout the two-year

process, because I was focusing on writing original music

with my daughter, Emily, for an original Broadway


105

emilio and I have

always lived life

looking forward. we’ve

learned a lot from our

decades in business

but still retain, honor

and feel the same

excitement we had

from day one

106 Emilio and Gloria Estefan

MUSIC CULTURE

GLORIA ESTEFAN

Gloria and Emilio

Gloria and grandson Sasha

musical entitled Basura, and I could not divert my

attention from that project. At the same time, I was

listening to and absorbing the incredible songs and

arrangements Emilio had produced, which turned my

recording of them into performances of music I already

knew well. Usually, when I write my material, I go into

the studio and create them for the first time. It makes a

big difference when the material is already deeply under

your skin.

You’ve always had a gift for connecting across

generations. How do you see Raíces speaking to

younger Latin audiences today, many of whom may be

reconnecting with their roots for the first time?

Because of the incredible success of urban music and

reggaetón, which have ruled the airwaves for more

than two decades, this album might sound fresh and

different to young listeners. I have also had fans for

decades, who share my music with their children, so

this might be something new and surprising for them.

When I am touring, I see, in the audience, people from

the very young to the much older, so my music is truly

crossing generations.

How did collaborating so closely with Emily on Basura

reshape the creative process, not just as a mother and

daughter, but as two artists in full command of their

respective voices?

Emily and I have a very smooth work flow. When I was

asked to write the music for //Basura//, I invited Emily to

join me, because I have the utmost respect for her as an

artist and knew she would bring magic to whatever we

wrote. Although, to be honest, I was looking for a way to

spend more time with Emily, doing something we love,

and I am happy to say that it worked.

What drew you to the story of the Recycled Orchestra

of Cateura, and why did you feel it was ripe for

transformation into a Broadway musical?

I watched the documentary Landfill Harmonic in 2019

in preparation for a meeting that had been requested

by Michael Shulman (Hamilton, Sunset Boulevard), a

producer who had bought the rights to develop the story.

He brought me one of the instruments the orchestra had

made from landfill trash, and I was incredibly inspired

by the resilience and hope shown by these young people,

who had been able to create something beautiful from

incredibly difficult circumstances. I honestly felt that

it would be an honour to write music that would tell

their story and share that hope with theatre audiences.

It’s a message that we need to hear and I think it can

particularly connect with young people because of its

subject matter. After I said “yes”, I started to ponder

the task I had just set for myself and, for a split second,

worried about what I had just gotten myself into. But the

process of working with Emily, our incredible book writer,

Karan Zacarias, and our dramaturg, Ken Cerniglia for

the last three years, has been one of the most fulfilling

creative ventures I have ever undertaken. Add to that

the talents of our wonderful director, Michael Greif

(Rent, Dear Evan Hansen), and our musical director,

Alex Lacamoire (The Heights, Hamilton), and we have a

powerhouse of a creative team.

With Basura, you’re exploring themes of

transformation and resilience through music – how

does this reflect your own belief in the power of song

to uplift and unify?

Other artist’s songs and music have helped get me

through some of the most difficult moments in my life.

I have been singing since I could talk, and music has

always been my escape and my catharsis. I have the

privilege of having had my music be just that for other

people as well, so creating new music, that will be heard

by many, is something that I don’t take lightly. Any time

that I can be involved in something that can uplift and

empower, give hope, soothe, or simply help someone forget

their troubles for a moment, I’m all-in.

Musical theatre is often seen as an ensembledriven

art form. What has surprised you most about

composing for characters who are not your own voice,

but whose stories you must still embody in song?

What I have loved about our creative journey on this

musical, is that Emily and I weren’t simply handed a book

for which we then had to write music. Rather we worked

from the first moment together with Karen and Ken,

actually shaping the story we would tell and evolving the

characters. And, once our director Michael was on board,

everyone’s visions were included in the story we are

telling. So, we have followed the development and growth

of the characters, and have even changed lyrics or even

written completely new songs when their stories have

changed throughout the process. It’s been an eye-opening

experience that I have enjoyed from the very beginning.

From On Your Feet! to Basura, your Broadway work is

increasingly defining a new canon of Latin-led musical

storytelling. Do you see yourself as part of a wider

theatrical shift?

I think that Broadway itself is experiencing a wider

theatrical shift because, as with everything, one must

evolve or die. Very soon Latinos will be a quarter of the

population of the United States and that needs to be

reflected in every art form. For me, it’s a personal goal to

continue to evolve people’s perceptions of who we are as

Latinos and share the beautiful parts of our culture with

as many people as possible.

Emily is carving her own space in the industry – what

qualities in her as an artist or thinker most inspire you?

Emily has inspired and impressed me her entire

life. She cares deeply about music and her artistry is

profound. She has an innate musical ability and at the

age of two would create entire drum sets out of my pots

and pans, waste baskets and, when she was older, even

a punching bag we had bought to help her practice her

taekwondo, which she flipped upside down and used

its base as a very deep sounding drum. Usually when

musicians have natural ability, they balk at studying

music, because they feel it’s a waste of time. But Emily

chose to hone her craft far beyond her piano, guitar and

drum lessons at home, by attending and graduating

from the prestigious Berklee College of Music in Boston.

She has the best of both worlds. But she is also a deep

thinker; one of the most humble and empathetic human

beings I have the honour of knowing, and I feel blessed

that she’s my daughter.

emily has inspired

and impressed me her

entire life. she cares

deeply about music and

her artistry is profound

Your cameo in Gabby’s Dollhouse: The Movie introduces

you to an entirely new audience of little ones – how did

it feel to become Gabby’s grandmother on the big screen?

That I would play a grandmother, a role that I have been

embodying for thirteen years now, was what drew me to

the project. I have watched and enjoyed movies and TV

series with my grandson, and learned about the impact

that Gabby’s Dollhouse series has had on its young

audience. Hearing that Kristen Wiig was involved sealed

the deal! When I was invited to participate, director

Ryan Crego was so welcoming and lovely, that I knew

immediately that I wanted to be a part of the movie. Plus,

I was going to get my own little animated character!

In a culture so often obsessed with reinvention, you’ve

mastered the art of evolution. What’s the difference, to

you, between evolving and simply changing for

change’s sake?

I have too much respect for music and art to ever

attempt to do something simply because it may be

what’s popular at the time. As an artist, I feel that is

a huge trap and, if you’re trying to create based on

Emily Estefan


MUSIC CULTURE

GLORIA ESTEFAN

“what’s happening” then you’re already too late. For

me it’s important to stay true to my artistic vision

because, if it succeeds, you’ll be recreating it for a long

time, and if you fail, at least it was something in which

you believed. The best thing an artist can offer to their

audience is an honest and true vision of art that is

theirs alone.

How do you protect your creative instincts from

becoming diluted by expectations or nostalgia?

People have such vastly different opinions and tastes

that I couldn’t tell you what their expectations might

be, but this has never driven our reasons for making

music or whatever projects we get involved in. Emilio’s

and my only criteria to create something new is that

we feel very excited and optimistic about doing it and

sharing it. Clearly, we can’t expect every project we do

or have done to be able to garner the same reactions

or success. But if you truly love and are excited about

what you’re doing, it is easier to accept whatever

response it might get.

Gloria and Emily Estefan

A recycled Basura instrument

You’ve received accolades from the White House

to the Grammys – which honours have surprised or

moved you most, and why?

Being an immigrant, I think I was most surprised

and moved by being given the Presidential Medal

of Freedom by President Barrack Obama, not least

because it’s the highest civilian honour a citizen of the

United States can receive, and my father brought me to

the United States to raise me in freedom, so it carried a

very momentous weight. While my mother was able to

watch me receive it on TV, I felt my father with me very

much that day, smiling from heaven. It was also the

first time that a couple received the honour together,

and Emilio and I were very emotional that day.

A Grammy is the music industry’s highest award. I had

been nominated six times before winning my first Grammy

for Mi Tierra. My most recent Grammy win, with Sheila

E. and Mimy Succar for our cover of the late Celia Cruz’s

seminal Bemba Colorá, was both a surprise and a joy.

Having broken barriers as the most successful Latin

crossover artist in history, do you feel that today’s

music industry is more genuinely inclusive, or just

more performatively diverse?

I believe that both of those things are true. The music

industry, because of songs that have become worldwide

hits, has become more open to different genres,

rhythms, and languages. Also, thanks to streaming,

listeners around the world have instant access to

music, and I have always believed that audiences are

open to a range of diverse music, which is something I

have experienced personally when touring the world.


109

MUSIC CULTURE

GLORIA ESTEFAN

You’ve written iconic songs that continue to

soundtrack people’s lives. Do you ever feel

the weight of having become part of their

emotional landscape?

I don’t see that as a weight but rather an incredible

privilege to, through my songs, be able to be a part

of people’s special moments, and be included in the

soundtrack to their lives.

You once said that Rhythm is Gonna Get You.

Half a century on, what still gets you?!

Music will always continue to inspire and fulfil

me, especially young artists that break moulds,

like Spanish pop and flamenco singer Rosalía, and

Argentine-Spanish singer and songwriter Nathy

Peluso, to name just a couple. But my world revolves

around the love of my family and being as much a part

of my grandson’s life as possible.

You’ve embraced everything from percussion-heavy

pop to Brazilian jazz and cinematic ballads. Is there a

genre or style you still long to explore?

I’ve spent the last couple of years doing a deep dive

into Paraguayan music, because Basura takes place

in the Cateura landfill in Asunción, Paraguay. It is

very important for me to be culturally sensitive and,

even though the Recycled Orchestra of Cateura plays

classical, rock, and some folkloric music, Emily and

I wanted to incorporate all of their influences when

creating the musical soundtrack for the show.

Miami has been a constant in your story – how has

the city’s soundscape changed over the decades,

and where do you still hear its heartbeat strongest?

Miami is its own animal and, for years, has seen an

influx of people from south and central America, the

Caribbean, and Europe, in addition to the strong

Cuban influence that begun with the Cuban diaspora

in the 60’s and beyond. Post pandemic, we have seen

a lot of people from the west coast tech world, and a

lot of New Yorkers make Miami their home. To me,

the heart of Miami is its subtropical, paradise-like

landscapes, its warm climate and humidity, and the

colourful tapestry of cultures that inhabit the city. To

me, Miami is simply “home”.

You’ve worked with legends and launched new talent

– what qualities do you instinctively recognise in

collaborators who will go the distance?

One always hopes for the best when collaborating

with people, and we still work with people, both at

home and in our office, that have been with us for

decades. We truly appreciate loyalty, honesty, and a

clean work ethic. But not every collaboration needs

to exist “through the ages” and it doesn’t lessen its

impact if it’s simply for a moment in time.


When you’re in the writing zone, do you lead

with melody, lyrics, or an emotion waiting to find

its form?

Every song is a completely different story. I’ve had

songs that I believe came “through” me like Anything

For You, Coming Out of the Dark, and, on my latest

album, Raíces, Beautiful Boy, which I wrote for

my grandson. Others, like some of the songs on my

Unwrapped album, I wrote lyrics and melodies to

tracks that my producer had made, so I listened

intently and, depending on what the music made me

feel, I wrote the songs. There’s inspiration and there’s

craft involved when writing a song, and having them

both is great. But, if I had to choose, I would pick

“inspiration” every time.

Finally, what would 2025 Gloria tell the Gloria

who first walked into a recording studio half a

century ago?

I would say, “Relax, girl, nothing is as important as it

seems and please just be in each and every moment

because the present is the only thing that is

a guarantee and it’s important to remember

each one.”

How do you recharge creatively – and are there

rituals or routines that remain sacred, no matter

where you are in the world?

I don’t tend to have rituals and am not at all

superstitious. But whenever I’m about to go in front

of an audience or create a performance in the studio

or on film, I breathe slowly ten times, in through my

nose and out through my mouth, and imagine my

chakras opening to allow for an exchange of energy

to occur. I then pray to my grandmother, mom and

dad to be by my side and help me be the best I can

be, and to give me their powerful energies.

my world revolves

around the love of

my family and being

as much a part of

my grandson’s life

as possible

FROM LONDON, WHERE NATASHA SIDERIS

HAS OPENED TASHAS’ FIRST UK OUTPOST IN

BATTERSEA, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER JOURNEYS

TO THE GREEK ISLAND OF SIFNOS TO UNCOVER A

CULINARY HERITAGE FIRED BY CLAY AND CHICKPEAS;

TRACES SLOVENIA’S VINOUS STORY FROM ITS CAPITAL TO

ITS FARTHEST VALLEYS, WHILE TALKING WINE WITH ONE OF

THE NATION’S MOST RESPECTED SOMMELIERS; AND TRAVELS

EAST TO LIJIANG, WHERE A PIONEERING HUSBAND-AND-WIFE TEAM

ARE CRAFTING PREMIUM GINS INFUSED WITH YUNNAN BOTANICALS

TASHAS BATTERSEA

➤ LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM

SIFNOS

➤ CYCLADES, GREECE

SLOVENIAN WINE CULTURE

➤ SLOVENIA

NINA BRATOVŽ

➤ LJUBLJANA, SLOVENIA

YOUYUN DISTILLERY

➤ LIJIANG, CHINA

Brda wine region in Slovenia

NEWCOMER

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER TEAM VISITS TASHAS’ FIRST UK OUTPOST AND

DISCOVERS A RESTAURANT THAT EMBODIES NATASHA SIDERIS’ UNIQUE BLEND

OF REFINED ARTISTRY, RELAXED HOSPITALITY, AND CULINARY FINESSE

TASHAS BATTERSEA

➤ LONDON, UNITED

KINGDOM

THE ENTREPRENEURIAL FORCE

behind one of South Africa’s most

admired hospitality exports, Natasha

Sideris has built a brand that embodies

warmth, generosity and refinement in

equal measure. Born in Johannesburg

to Greek parents, she grew up in

a household where creativity and

conviviality were intertwined. An

artistic mother, a chef-restaurateur

father and a kitchen that doubled as a

communal table shaped a sensibility

rooted in both heritage and hospitality.

That dual inheritance, coupled with a

determined streak and a natural feel for

business, would become the foundations

of her success.

ALTHOUGH SHE READ PSYCHOLOGY

and sociology at university, Sideris

found herself drawn back to food and

service. In 2005 she opened her first

café at Atholl Square in Johannesburg

with modest resources and pragmatic

ambitions. The response was emphatic.

QUEUES FORMED OUTSIDE,

friends were drafted in to help, and

the fledgling restaurant regularly

welcomed close to a thousand guests

a day. What began as a means to fund

further study quickly crystallised into

a vision: a contemporary, all-day space

where beautiful plates, thoughtful

design, and attentive service felt

effortless rather than contrived.


TASTE & SIP

NEWCOMER

Flynbos cocktails

Allan Moita

Pesto Pasta

SIDERIS’ AMBITIONS DID NOT

remain confined to her homeland.

Recognising the promise of Dubai’s

rapidly evolving dining scene, she

relocated to the Emirates to open the

brand’s first outpost outside South Africa.

At a time when the city was still finding

its culinary confidence, Tashas struck a

chord with a cosmopolitan audience that

wanted restaurants with character and

polish, rather than spectacle. The formula

resonated immediately. Today, the brand

counts six cafés across the UAE, and

Sideris is widely regarded as one of the

region’s most respected operators.

GROWTH ON TWO CONTINENTS

has demanded resilience. Building a

sustainable brand in markets where

tastes can pivot overnight requires

adaptability, consistency, and good

instincts. And it is precisely Sideris’

ability to balance tradition with

modernity – weaving Greek and

broader Mediterranean influences

into contemporary menus and settings

– that has allowed Tashas to thrive

without losing its soul. Her touch is

evident in every branch: an insistence

on quality ingredients; a preference for

layered, residential-style interiors over

look-at-me theatrics; service that is

warm and alert but never overbearing.

THE RESULT IS A COLLECTION OF

outlets that feel personal and distinct

yet unmistakably related, united by a

commitment to comfort, craft and care.

Menus favour freshness and immediacy

over fuss, with plates that travel

gracefully from breakfast through lunch

to early supper, the cooking anchored in

provenance and lifted by bright, sunlit

flavours. Yet behind the easy charm lies

meticulous preparation: sourcing that

privileges seasonality, kitchens drilled

on flavour and timing, and floor teams

trained to read the room rather than recite

a script. It is hospitality by accumulation –

small, thoughtful decisions that add up to

something quietly memorable.

AS THE BRAND MATURED, IT

expanded its creative universe with

sister concepts that allowed for different

culinary expressions and moods. Yet

Tashas remains the beating heart of

the portfolio, the café that most directly

reflects Sideris’ sensibility.

IN SOUTH AFRICA, WHERE THERE

are currently 15 Tashas cafés, it has

become synonymous with leisurely

breakfasts, elegant catch-ups, and the

kind of everyday celebration that needs

no occasion. In the Emirates, it offers

havens of taste and tact in cities that

can sometimes tilt towards excess.

What binds them is an atmosphere that

invites guests to relax: rooms tuned to

convivial conversation, lighting that

flatters, music that supports rather than

competes. All of this must have made

the leap to London feel less like a gamble

and more like a natural progression

for a brand confident in its voice. The

British capital rewards restaurants that

know who they are, and Tashas arrived


115

with that rare combination of poise and

warmth – the sense that someone had

thought of everything, yet nothing felt

overwrought.

THE OPENING OF TASHAS

Battersea, directly opposite the iconic

power station, marked a significant

new chapter. Battersea has been reborn

as one of the capital’s most dynamic

destinations, its Grade II-listed

landmark now surrounded by shops,

restaurants, and cultural attractions.

For Sideris, the location was fitting:

rooted in history yet reinvented for the

present, much like the brand itself.

IMMEDIATELY UPON ENTERING,

our eyes are drawn upwards to a paper

installation that graces a large part

of the ceiling of Tashas Battersea.

Mesmerising and playful, and created

by South African artist Elonah O’Neil,

it ripples softly like a sculpted cloud.

A subtle nod to the brand’s heritage,

the work sets a tone of refined artistry

from the very entrance, creating an

atmosphere that feels both contemporary

and quietly theatrical – an inspired

prelude to the restaurant’s blend

of relaxed creativity and simple

gastronomic excellence.

Savva and Natasha Sideris

WE ARE GREETED SWIFTLY AND

warmly and soon introduced to

restaurant manager, Allan Moita, who

previously helmed a Tashas outlet in

Cape Town before moving, lock, stock

and barrel with his wife to London, to

launch the Battersea branch. Easy-going

and humorous, he sets an engaging tone

for the evening as we begin at the bar

with glasses of Ken Forrester Reserve

Sauvignon Blanc – a bright, layered wine

displaying grassy tang balanced with fig

leaf, peach, and nectarine. Refreshing

and aromatic, it slips down perhaps a

little too easily.

THROUGHOUT, THE RESTAURANT

glows with natural light that streams

in via vast windows, illuminating

an interior that is both elegant and

airy. Mirrors bounce reflections

All That Fluff

across leafy palms and florals, while

a mix of blonde wood, marble and

metallic accents creates a layered

yet harmonious palette. Banquette

seating and the gentle shimmer of

brass detailing at the bar soften the

look, ensuring a balance of style and

comfort. The result is a room that feels

expansive yet intimate, its brightness

by day giving way to a mellow radiance

after sunset.

ATTENTION TO DETAIL IS EVIDENT

in every corner. It is neither showy

nor self-conscious, but rather quietly

confident, encouraging guests to

linger over conversation and food. In

many ways it distils the essence of

the brand: stylish, comfortable and

personal, with a touch of theatre that

never overwhelms.

WE TAKE OUR SEATS AT A TABLE

by one of the windows and embark on

a multi-course meal, selecting from an

uncluttered menu that caters with ease to

diners of every persuasion. The approach

is deliberately straightforward, yet the

breadth of choice reflects Sideris’ instinct

for balance – from fresh, vegetable-driven


TASTE & SIP

NEWCOMER

OF THE MAINS, MEDITERRANEAN

lemon chicken is both comforting

and refined. Tender breast, seared

and cloaked in a lemon-butter sauce

fragrant with rosemary, oregano and

sun-dried tomato, is punctuated by

briny Kalamata olives and capers, the

juices absorbed by a mound of fluffy

basmati rice. Alongside, a plate of pesto

pasta epitomises simplicity with finesse:

rigatoni tossed in a fresh basil and

Grana Padano sauce, scattered with

toasted pine nuts, and crowned with

creamy stracciatella. A final dusting of

Aleppo pepper lends a gentle warmth,

lifting the dish beyond the familiar and

reminding us of the kitchen’s instinct

for nuance.

Berry Fluff

EVERYTHING WE EAT

encapsulates the Battersea outpost’s

appeal – generous, well-judged and

brimming with character, every dish

begging to be shared and savoured,

extending the meal far beyond the

realms of convention.

plates to generous meat and fish dishes, all

underscored by the kitchen’s emphasis on

quality and clarity of flavour.

OF ALL THE MOREISH DISHES WE

devour, standout are those that sing with

freshness and balance. A cauliflower

salad arrives first, its florets brightened

by tangy apple and crisp celery, dressed

in a citrusy vinaigrette and finished with

pine nuts, queen nocellara olives, golden

raisins and slivers of breakfast radish.

It is light, textured, and quietly complex,

setting a confident tone for the plates

that follow.

A SPICED AUBERGINE DISH

proves to be a favourite – roasted until

melting within, then flash-fried to a

golden crust before being lacquered with

a sticky, Korean-inspired glaze. The

sauce, lifted with lime and orange and

sharpened with a touch of soya, gives

a sweet, tangy punch, while sesame,

dill and spring onion provide crunch

and aromatic lift. In contrast, chicken

meatballs nod to the founder’s Hellenic

heritage: a mixture of dark and light meat

for succulence, bound with authentic feta

and fresh herbs, pan-seared and served

under a drizzle of citrus butter sauce.

IN TRACING HER PATH FROM

Johannesburg to Dubai, and now to

London, one discerns not only the

story of a restaurant group, but also

the personal journey of a woman who

has defied expectations and built a

reputation through tenacity, vision and

grace. Natasha Sideris’ achievement

lies not simply in opening cafés, but

in creating places where people feel

at ease, cared for, and inspired –

places that embody the very essence

of hospitality. And Tashas

Battersea achieves all of this.

www.tashascafe.com


117

Discover Slovenia

Where timeless beauty meets curated luxury.

SIFNOS

FOOD CULTURE

an island for

food lovers

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER EXPLORES THE

FOOD CULTURE OF THE GREEK ISLAND

OF SIFNOS, WHERE CLAY, CHICKPEAS,

AND FAMILY RECIPES SHAPE ONE OF THE

CYCLADES’ RICHEST CULINARY TRADITIONS

Vathi Bay

WHILST THE CYCLADIC ISLAND

of Sifnos is often praised for its beaches

and whitewashed chapels, its true heart

lies in the kitchen. Long before boutique

hotels arrived, this rocky island was

celebrated across Greece for its cooking, a

reputation secured by native son Nikolaos

Tselementes, the early 20th-century

chef whose name became shorthand for

the Greek cookbook itself. His Odigos

Mageirikis, first published in 1910, was

the volume that shaped much of modern

Greek home cooking. To this day, older

generations of Greeks will refer to a

cookbook simply as a “Tselementes”,

which is a measure of the impact he had.

Yet while Tselementes codified recipes

Revithada

and gave them literary permanence,

Sifnos’ culinary heritage stretches

much further back, grounded in the raw

essentials of island life: the clay beneath

its soil, the austerity of its rocky terrain,

and the ingenuity of families who made

feasts from humble ingredients.

SIFNOS HAS LONG BEEN FAMED

for its pottery, and for centuries its

kitchens relied on clay vessels fired

in dozens of workshops scattered

across the island. These earthen pots

were not mere decoration but tools

that defined the taste of Sifnian food,

vessels passed from hand to hand as

much as from oven to table. The most

emblematic example is revithada ‒

chickpeas baked slowly overnight in

a sealed clay pot, producing a dish

that is as much ritual as sustenance.

Lamb is cooked in a tall ceramic

mastelo pot, layered with wine and

dill on top of a base of vine leaves,

which is tenderised in the gentle


TASTE & SIP

FOOD CULTURE

Mastelo (lamb).

heat of the oven. Even sweets bear the

imprint of clay: Melopita, a honey-cheese

pie baked until golden, was traditionally

prepared in earthenware dishes.

The island’s pottery tradition

continues today in just a few locations,

the most prominent of which is Atsonios

Pottery in Vathi, which has been

producing vessels since 1870 and

remains one of Sifnos’ most storied

workshops. Here, clay is still shaped,

glazed, and fired with the same skill

that once supplied every household

on the island, a living reminder of how

pottery and cooking remain inseparable

strands of Sifnian culture.

www.ceramicartatsonios.gr

GEOGRAPHY, TOO, HAS SHAPED

what is eaten on Sifnos and how. The

island’s steep terraces and dry, stony soil

favour hardy crops: chickpeas, capers,

figs, olives and vines thrive where

little else will grow. Sheep and goats

graze freely across hillsides, their milk

forming the basis of cheeses that range

from soft, lactic mizithra, to the winecured

manoura that has become one of

Sifnos’ signatures. To this day, cheesemaking

remains one of the island’s

defining crafts.

WITH LITTLE ARABLE LAND,

frugality became a virtue; island

families learned to coax flavour

from what was abundant, stretching

chickpeas into fritters, stewing onions

into rich kremmydata, and preserving

capers to brighten salads and stews.

The sea, ever present, adds its own

bounty: small fish fried crisp, octopus

dried in the sun, and prawns tossed

into orzo. The result is a cuisine that

balances land and water, economy and

imagination, always with a generosity

of spirit. To eat on Sifnos is to taste

continuity, and share in a revered

culture that still treats food as the

measure of hospitality on the island.

And as The Cultured Traveller discovers

when visiting Sifnos, the island’s distinct

food culture is revealed most vividly


121

S TAY

NYMFES

HOTEL

KAMARES, SIFNOS

BARELY A FIVE-MINUTE DRIVE FROM WHERE THE FERRIES

dock in Kamares, Nymfes is conveniently located to

explore every beach, taverna, cheese-making farm and pottery

workshop the island has to offer, and is just a 15-minute drive from

Apollonia ‒ Sifnos’ capital.

The hotel’s rooms, renovated in 2022, are simple yet elegant with

super comfy beds, air-con that works, and modern shower-rooms. Bijou

two-bedroom apartments have a well-equipped kitchen and are ideal for

friends sharing.

Many of the hotel’s rooms open onto furnished terraces or large

balconies framing sweeping views towards Kamares Bay. Central to the

hotel is an inviting swimming pool, alive and bright with bougainvillaea

and surrounded by plenty of furniture to meet, dine, or relax.

WHAT DISTINGUISHES NYMFES IS

the personal care of its

owners, George and Mosha, who

run the hotel with warmth and

attentiveness, and welcome guests

as returning friends, rather than

passing visitors. Their passion

for and knowledge of the island is

as invaluable as their attention to

detail: breakfast tables laden with

homemade preserves and local cheeses, thoughtful recommendations

for coastal walks or hidden beaches,

and a complimentary shuttle service to and from the port.

After days spent exploring Sifnos’ trails, monasteries, and beaches,

there is great comfort in returning to an unpretentious hotel like Nymfes,

that feels calm and discreetly cared for.

https://nymfes.gr

Stuffed courgettes in egg-lemon sauce at Melopi

Apollonia

TASTE & SIP

FOOD CULTURE

Meropi, Kamares

Melopi

Apollonia

in the meals shared, each one telling a

different story of place and people.

ON THE SOUTH COAST, ON A

rocky headland, the monastery of

Panagia glitters above the wide blue bay

of Chrysopigi. Just along the shoreline,

shaded by trees, stands Taverna

Chrysopigi (Lembesis). Run by the

Lembesis family, whose roots here stretch

back generations, Giorgos, the patriarch,

remains a guiding presence, while his

son Antonis works in the kitchen, and

Katerina and Evi ensure that guests are

welcomed as if to their home.

WE BEGIN WITH REVITHADA, THE

slow-baked chickpea stew, all silken

and earthy, and kremmydata, the sweet

onions best scooped up with bread.

Then comes mastelo lamb, tender and

fragrant, served with hand-cut chips.

The lamb falls apart at the bone. We

conculde with melopita ‒ the pie that

ends many a family feast. To eat at the

Lembesis family’s taverna on Chrysopigi

bay is to encounter the island’s culinary

soul in four or five key dishes, and

hence it is the perfect place to begin a

gastronomic immersion of Sifnos.

+30 2284 071295

ACROSS TO THE NORTHWEST,

the island’s busy port of Kamares

thrums with ferries, cafés, and shops.

Just back from the waterfront road sits

Meropi, a family taverna currently

run by Katerina Kampouraki, the third

generation to continue its traditions.

Katerina moves between tables with

an ease that shows the restaurant is

part of her life as much as her work.

Among the plates she serves us, two

are particularly standout: kolokithakia

gemista avgolemono, which are stuffed

courgettes, topped with an egg-lemon

sauce and garnished with dill.


123

Cheronissos Fish Tavern

Red Mullet

Cheronisos Bay

Church of the Seven Martyrs, Kastro, Sifnos

And ravani, a syrup-soaked semolina

cake sprinkled with cinnamon. Meropi is

both a portside taverna and a family legacy,

feeding Kamares with the same recipes

that have sustained locals and visitors alike

for decades. +30 2284 031672

FAR NORTH, THE ROAD WINDS

and then descends to Cheronissos, a tiny

harbour where fishing boats nudge the

quay and the sea laps within arm’s reach of

the tables at Cheronissos Fish Tavern,

which is run by Antonis Fyssas, who recalls

how the building once housed a family

pottery. Today it serves the sea instead.

Here, lunch is stripped back to the freshest

essentials, and we eat barbounia (red

mullet) caught that morning, dusted with

flour and fried until crisp; homemade

taramasalata, briny and smooth, spread

thick on hunks of bread; and a simple

salad, all washed down with some local

village wine, served by the half-litre.

Nothing feels staged ‒ this is island life on

Sifnos, continuing as it always has.

+30 2284 033119

Ravani


TASTE & SIP

FOOD CULTURE

BACK INLAND, IN THE

whitewashed lanes of Apollonia, the capital

hums with the evening buzz of cafés and

tavernas. In its centre stands Isalos,

a modern gastro-cocktail bar created

by brothers Theodore and Nikos, and

Theo’s wife, Sevi. Together the trio has

given the island a new contemporary

counterpoint: shelves of spirits,

carefully mixed drinks, and a kitchen

open to view. Theodore’s cooking is

pared back but precise, and we enjoy

the venue’s defining dish of orzo with

prawns ‒ the pasta cooked al dente,

catching a sweet, savoury sauce

enriched with seafood juices. It is

simple, flawless, and moreish, a plate

that embodies the brothers’ vision of

Sifnos as an island looking forward

while rooted in its flavours.

+30 2284 033716

WHILE IN APOLLONIA, IT WOULD

be a crime not to pop into traditional

family-run Gerontopoulos,

established in 1950, where three

generations have perfected the island’s

sweetest temptations. Known for its

handmade pastries and ice creams,

the shop is a local institution, its

counters filled with almond sweets,

buttery biscuits, and chocolate-covered

confections that carry the flavour of

Sifnian celebrations. For The Cultured

Traveller, a pit-stop here is as essential

as any church or viewpoint, for it

offers a taste of continuity as delicious

as it is endearing.

https://gerontopoulossifnos.gr


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FOOD CULTURE

Prawns with orzo at Isalos

Cheronissos

Nikos Frazeskaros

To Tsikali

Aubergine dish at To Tsikali

FINALLY, AMIDST THE CALM BAY

of Vathi, where trees shade the sand and

the pace of life slows, we meet Nikos

Frazeskaros at To Tsikali restaurant

on the beach. Cheesemaker, cook, and

host, he sets before us the island in

three cheeses: fresh, lactic myzithra;

soft chloromanoura; and, aged in wine

lees, manoura, which is dense and

complex. They taste of pasture, salt,

and cellar. Yet the dish of that day that

lingers most is aubergine, roasted until

smoky and yielding, filled with tomato,

onion, garlic, and herbs. It is humble,

extraordinary, and unforgettable. A clay

jug of white wine and a dish of mastelo

lamb completes the table, but it is Nikos’

and his son Dimitris’ cheeses and the

aubergine dish that we recall fondly

when we’re on the ferry heading back to

Piraeus. +30 2284 071150

TAKEN TOGETHER, THESE MEALS

chart a map of Sifnos more vividly than

any guidebook. They reveal an island

where food remains inseparable from

earth and sea, family and memory, work

and ritual. Clay, chickpeas, cheese, and

lamb are not just ingredients here but

expressions of place, continuity, and

identity. To sit at these tables ‒ under

tamarisk shade, in vinecovered terraces,

or by a harbour’s edge at dusk ‒ is to

glimpse Sifnos as it has always been:

generous, rooted, quietly remarkable, and

deeply rewarding to those who linger and

listen, season after season, in

conversation with those who

keep its kitchens alive.


WINE CULTURE

discovering the soul

of slovenian wine

WITH ROOTS DEEPER THAN EMPIRE AND VINES THAT TOUCH EVERY HILL

AND VALLEY, SLOVENIA’S VITICULTURAL HERITAGE IS FINALLY HAVING ITS

MOMENT. THE CULTURED TRAVELLER TRACES THE STORY FROM LJUBLJANA

TO THE NATION’S FURTHEST FLUNG WINERIES

TUCKED BETWEEN THE

Alps and the Adriatic,

Ljubljana’s location has

always placed it at the intersection of

civilisations — and its wines bear the

hallmarks of that rich cultural exchange.

The land here is not just beautiful, it is fertile

and varied. Shaped by glacial rivers, shifting

elevations, and a continental climate that teeters

between Alpine cool and Mediterranean warmth,

it’s also land that nourishes. For Slovenian

winemakers, this geography is both blessing and

muse — a patchwork of microclimates where

different varietals find their perfect home.

THE SLOVENIAN CAPITAL LIES IN THE

basin of the Ljubljanica River, embraced by

rolling hills that have long nurtured vines. One

could say that Slovenia is a nation in vine, since

Roman relics point to viticulture as early as the

first century. But wine was never merely a colonial

import. It became a way of life and part of the very

fibre of local identity. And even today, Ljubljana

retains a uniquely bucolic rhythm for a capital city:

you’re never far from a hillside, a cellar, or the

quiet scent of fermenting grapes.

GASTRONOMIC FOUNDATION

In Slovenia, wine isn’t simply poured ‒ it is

pored over. Every glass tells a story, not only of

the grape, but of the season, the soil, and the

family behind its cultivation. It is this depth of

meaning that makes wine an inseparable part

of Slovenian gastronomy. In fact, wine is the

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WINE CULTURE

gastronomic foundation for almost every meal in

Slovenia. And at any proper table, wine is an equal

partner to the food ‒ chosen not for its status, but

for synergy.

Ljubljana

IMAGE: ANDREJ TARFILA

WINE INFORMS THE WAY SLOVENIANS

cook, the way they gather, and the way they

celebrate. Centuries of hardship, migration,

and reinvention have created a cuisine that is

unpretentious yet layered, much like the country’s

wines. Whether paired with hearty stews in the hills

of Dolenjska or seafood on the coast, wine always

elevates the experience ‒ not by overshadowing it, but

by amplifying it. This seamless integration of wine

into daily life is perhaps Slovenia’s greatest culinary

distinction. It is not an accessory ‒ it is the country’s

gastronomic backbone.

Brda region

Movia Winery

IMAGE: ZOSO PHOTOGRAPHY


129

CHEFS AND SOMMELIERS

As Slovenia’s restaurant scene continues

its meteoric rise, so too does the generation

of sommeliers shaping how wine is

understood, discussed, and paired. Many

were mentored in the shadows of great

chefs, and have since stepped forward to

define a style that is confident, inventive,

and resolutely Slovenian. These are

professionals who don’t merely serve wine

‒ they interpret it, drawing from deep

reservoirs of regional knowledge, personal

intuition, and global experience. Their

influence can be felt not only in the cellar,

but in the way Slovenians are now thinking

about their own gastronomic identity: with

curiosity, clarity and a sense of pride that

is entirely contemporary.

MOST NOTABLY, NINA BRATOVŽ,

daughter of acclaimed chef Janez Bratovž,

has quietly emerged as one of Slovenia’s most

astute wine voices. Her approach balances

deep respect for traditional varietals with a

curatorial instinct that feels almost modernist

‒ an interpreter of grapes, with a sixth sense

for texture, tone, and trajectory. In her hands, a

bottle becomes a layered and articulate narrative,

brimming with intent.

Another notable figure is Oskar Bičič,

who brings a youthful, scholarly-like intellect

and a traveller’s palate to his role at Grajska

Vinoteka, pairing indigenous wines with

rare precision.

Together, these sommeliers are doing

for Slovenian wine what Ana Roš did for

its cuisine ‒ transforming local knowledge

into global resonance. Roš, the formidable

force behind Hiša Franko, has brought

international acclaim to the country’s

culinary landscape, with her restaurant

appearing on The World’s 50 Best

Restaurants list since 2017. Roš’s approach

‒ rooted in place yet fearlessly expressive,

drawing deeply from the surrounding Soča

Valley ‒ has become a touchstone for a

generation of Slovenian gastronomic talent.

Among them is Igor Jagodic, whose elegant,

historically inspired dishes are served high

above the capital in Ljubljana Castle at

Strelec. Here, Jagodic draws not only on local

produce but also on the castle’s own modest

vineyard, bringing both symbolism and

substance to the table.

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WINE CULTURE

Nina Bratovž

Ana Ros

Oskar Bičič


131

IMAGE: NIKE KOLEZNIK

Vinoteka Movia

Grajska Vinoteka

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WINE CULTURE

WHERE THE JOURNEY BEGINS

To arrive in Slovenia for a wine journey

is to step into a complex map of flavours,

each route offering something distinct.

For first-timers, the best way to orient

oneself is in Ljubljana ‒ not just because

it’s the capital, but because its wine

bars serve as a compact preview of the

entire nation’s output, capturing the

diversity of its regions, the character of

its varietals, and the quiet confidence of

its winemakers.

Grajska Vinoteka, nestled within

the grounds of Ljubljana Castle, is more

than just a wine bar ‒ it is a living tribute

to Slovenia’s wine culture. Under the

stewardship of Oskar Bičič, the selection

here is meticulous yet inclusive, ranging

from refined reds of Brda to crisp whites

from Prekmurje. The setting alone ‒ high

above the city in a medieval fortress ‒

adds gravity to each tasting, and the bar’s

dramatic tasting room is perfect for a

private gathering. https://grajskavinoteka.si

Grajska Vinoteka

In the heart of the city centre, Wine

Bar Šuklje offers something altogether

different: an immersive, sensorial

tasting experience with a monthly

changing offering of 30 wines by

the glass, as well as sommelier-led

tastings. Located at Breg 10, along the

Ljubljanica River, the bar is housed

within a historic villa, combining rustic

charm with modern elegance. Curated

flights change with the seasons, providing

opportunities to revisit familiar favourites

or explore lesser-known labels, and the

knowledgeable team are always eager

to guide visitors through Slovenia’s key

varietals with a level of insight that is both

educational and infectiously passionate.

https://winebar.suklje.com

Located on the city’s town square

adjacent to Ljubljana Town Hall,

Vinoteka Movia helmed by Ela

Kristančič, is a cosy, family-run outpost

of the famous winery, stocked with their

full range as well as a few surprises.

Situated at Mestni trg 2, the bar retains

the raw energy of the Movia brand

‒ unfiltered, engaging, and quietly

radical ‒ and is an ideal place to sit al

fresco, sip wine, people watch, and better

understand the ethos that sets Slovenian

winemaking apart.

https://movia.si/en/wine-bar

IMAGE: TINA STARIHA

Wine Bar Šuklje


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WINE CULTURE

FOUR DISTINCT REGIONS

Prekmurje, in the far northeast,

remains a hidden gem. Bordering

Hungary and Austria, it produces

aromatic whites and lighter reds that

mirror the delicacy of its cuisine. The

soils here are mineral-rich, and the

region’s cooler climate results in crisp,

vibrant wines ‒ ideal for lovers of Pinot

Blanc and Furmint. Its understated

elegance has made Prekmurje a quiet

favourite among sommeliers seeking

something off the beaten track.

DOLENJSKA, LOCATED IN THE

southeast, is known for its undulating

hills and misty vineyards. It is the

spiritual home of Cviček ‒ a rare

blended wine that balances white

and red grapes to create something

utterly distinctive: low in alcohol, high

in freshness, and surprisingly foodfriendly.

But Dolenjska isn’t just about

novelty. Its winemakers are quietly

crafting some of the country’s most

honest, terroir-driven expressions of

Blaufränkisch and Laški Rizling, with

a pastoral charm all their own.

FURTHER WEST LIES THE VIPAVA

Valley, part of the Primorska region

and long considered one of Slovenia’s

viticultural powerhouses. Here, the

powerful burja wind helps control

moisture, leading to grapes that are

small, concentrated, and packed with

flavour. The valley is especially prized

for its textured whites ‒ including

Pinela and Zelen ‒ as well as for

producers who champion natural and

biodynamic practices. The wines here

are full of personality: robust yet

refined, with structure that lingers

long after the last sip.

THEN THERE IS BRDA ‒ SLOVENIA’S

most internationally recognised wine

region, often dubbed the “Tuscany

of Slovenia.” A poetic landscape of

undulating vineyards, cherry orchards

and terracotta villages, Brda borders

Italy’s Collio and shares many

of its varietals. Yet its wines are

unmistakably Slovenian: expressive,

bold, and deeply connected to the land.

Rebula (known as Ribolla Gialla across

the border) thrives here, as does Merlot

and Sauvignonasse. If one region defines

the stylistic breadth of Slovenian wine, it

is Brda.

Marof Winery

Kozinc Winery

Movia Winery


135

MEET THE MAKERS

Marof Winery, in the north-eastern

Slovenian region of Goričko, has earned

accolades for its elegant, mineraldriven

wines, which reflect the area’s

uniquely volcanic soils. Winemaker

Uroš Valcl takes a purist’s approach,

allowing varietals like Blaufränkisch

and Chardonnay to express their full

potential through careful, minimalist

intervention. Each bottle feels

considered, graceful and unmistakably

northern. www.marof.eu/winery

A RISING NAME IN DOLENJSKA,

Kozinc Winery embodies the energy

of a region coming into its own. Run by

David Kozinc, whose meticulous, handson

approach has attracted the attention

of critics and collectors alike, the estate

combines traditional techniques with

a forward-looking sensibility. David is

among the most dynamic voices shaping

the region’s future, bringing new life

to historic blends like Cviček while

refining varietals such as Laški Rizling

and Blaufränkisch. Every decision

‒ from organic farming to extended

maceration ‒ is made with quiet

precision. His wines carry the tension

of old vines and new ideas, always

thoughtful and beautifully executed.

Of all the wines we sample, Kozinc’s

intense and full-bodied premium

Sauvignon Selekcija is standout ‒ fresh,

complex, and exceptionally elegant. Be

sure not to leave the winery without a

bottle or two! www.vino-kozinc.com/en

Lan Kristančič

TUCKED INTO THE VIPAVA VALLEY,

Kmetija Hedele is a small but

uncompromising estate that produces

wines with a fierce sense of place. The

Hedele family has been cultivating

grapes for generations, but it’s only

in recent years that their wines have

started gaining serious attention. Their

approach is fiercely manual, from handpicking

to wild yeast fermentations,

and the results are deeply textured

wines with an undeniable presence. At

the heart of it all is Andrea Pittana ‒ a

winemaker whose instinct, clarity and

quiet precision is admirable. His touch is


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WINE CULTURE

confident yet humble, revealing the land

without ever overshadowing it.

Of particular note is his Zelen, which

balances herbal aromatics with a saline

minerality that speaks directly of the

valley. And from the first swirl, Hedele’s

Sauvignon Goče 2020 captivates

with its clarity and confidence ‒ the

nose beautifully expressive; a stony

minerality that evokes the dry Vipava

soils; and taut and vibrant on the palate.

www.hedele.si

NO ACCOUNT OF SLOVENIAN

wine is complete without mentioning

Movia. Founded in 1820 and still

family-run, this legendary estate

straddles the border between Brda

and Italy’s Collio ‒ both literally and

philosophically. Under the stewardship

of Aleš Kristančič, Movia has become an

icon of natural winemaking, producing

bold, uncompromising wines that are

as cerebral as they are pleasurable.

Aleš is a figure of myth and charisma

in the wine world ‒ known as much for

his eccentric flair as for his devotion to

purity and place.

David Kozinc

In recent years, his son Lan Kristančič

has stepped into a more prominent role

at the estate, signalling a thoughtful

generational evolution. Together, they are

refining Movia’s signature style: wines

that are unfiltered, aged on lees, and

bottled without additives or adjustments.

Their flagship Lunar ‒ fermented in

oak and bottled by the moon ‒ is a wine

of philosophy as much as flavour. Yet

even their “simpler” offerings, like the

expressive Sauvignon and velvety Pinot

Noir, carry the same DNA: a belief that

great wine is made in the vineyard, not

the lab. To taste Movia is to engage with

a dialogue between nature, tradition,

and fearless oenological imagination.

https://movia.si/en

Ales Kristančič

IMAGE: ALLAN KARL

Andrea Pittana


137

CULTURE IN EVERY GLASS

Slovenia’s wine story is, at its core,

a story of identity. In a nation where

politics and borders have often been

imposed from the outside, wine has

remained steadfastly local ‒ a way for

people to claim and cultivate their own

narrative. Today, that narrative is

expanding. With wine bars in Ljubljana

offering a microcosm of the country’s

varietals, and with vineyards stretching

from Prekmurje to Brda, Slovenia

invites cultured travellers to taste not

just wine, but a nation’s past, present,

and future.

Whether you are sipping Rebula in a castle

above Ljubljana, discovering skin-contact

wines in a downtown bar, or standing in

a sun-drenched vineyard where the same

family has farmed for generations, you are

engaging with a culture that is both ancient

and awakening. Slovenian wine isn’t trying

to impress ‒ it’s trying to connect.

And that, ultimately, is what makes

Slovenian wine so attractive.

With thanks to:

Visit Ljubljana

Slovenian Tourism Board

Brda Tourism

www. visitljubljana.com/en

www.brda.si/en

www.slovenia.info/en

Centrally-located within a few

minutes’ walk of Ljubljana city

centre, The Cultured Traveller

stayed at Grand Plaza Hotel ‒ the

perfect base from which to explore

Slovenia’s wineries.

www.grandplazahotel.si

Brda region

IMAGE: ZOSO PHOTOGRAPHY

138

INTERVIEW

nina bratovž

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER TALKS WINE WITH ONE OF SLOVENIA’S MOST RESPECTED

CONTEMPORARY SOMMELIERS, WHOSE THOUGHTFUL, QUIETLY CONFIDENT APPROACH

IS HELPING TO REDEFINE HOW THE WORLD SEES HER MOTHERLAND’S WINES

What drew you to wine in the first place, and

when did you know this would be your path?

I grew up in a family where everything

revolved around food. Watching my

father’s dedication in the kitchen, I knew

early on I wanted to belong to that world

– but in my own way. Wine fascinated

me because of its emotional depth and

complexity. I still remember visiting

a winery in the Štajerska region and

realising that wine wasn’t just a drink

– it was culture, emotion, time. At 22, I

committed to the path of a sommelier,

not because it was expected, but because

wine started speaking to me in a way

nothing else in hospitality had.

How has growing up in the Bratovž family

shaped your approach to wine?

In our household, food and hospitality

weren’t just part of life – they were life. I

learnt early that food, and later wine, is

ultimately about how you make someone

feel. My father’s care in the kitchen

and the joy it brought guests taught

me that emotion is everything. I don’t

chase trends; I respect simplicity, and

I want wine to elevate the experience

without overpowering it. My approach

remains deeply rooted in my upbringing –

thoughtful, emotional, and guest-focused.

IN THE FAST-RISING

world of Slovenian wine,

few figures are more

respected, or more quietly influential,

than Nina Bratovž. A trained sommelier

with a clear-eyed, instinctive approach

to pairing and selection, she represents

a new generation of Slovenian wine

professionals: grounded, ambitious, and

unafraid to break with convention. What

began as a casual interest quickly turned

serious when, aged 22, she enrolled in

a sommelier course. She’s since built a

reputation on precision, integrity, and a

deep understanding of both classic and

contemporary winemaking.

SLOVENIA’S DIVERSE WINE

regions ‒ from the crisp whites of

Goriška Brda to the structured reds

of Posavje ‒ form the backbone of

her cellar. But Bratovž doesn’t just

champion her country’s bottles out of

patriotism. She knows the winemakers,

understands their processes, and brings

those connections to the table in every

recommendation. Her selections tell

a story of place and craft, always

with a focus on balance and the guest’s

personal experience.

NAMED SOMMELIER OF THE

Year by Jeunes Restaurateurs in 2024,

and again by Gault&Millau in 2025,

Bratovž is now widely seen as one

of Slovenia’s leading voices in wine.

She’s also become a mentor, regularly

lending her time to national hospitality

initiatives and encouraging more young

people into the profession.

BRATOVŽ ISN’T IN THE BUSINESS

of performance. She’s there to get it right

‒ one glass at a time ‒ and in doing so,

she’s raising the profile of Slovenian wine

with quiet, unshowy confidence.

You’ve said wine pairing is about emotional

connection – when did that philosophy click

for you?

One night at the restaurant, I paired

an aged Rebula with slow-cooked veal,

celery root and white truffle. A couple

dining that evening were celebrating

an anniversary, and I watched their

expressions soften as they tasted the

pairing. It wasn’t just about flavour – it

was about creating a memory. That’s

when I truly understood that wine

pairing is storytelling. It’s about creating

intimacy through emotion.

Tell us about the first wine that truly

moved you.

Movia’s Veliko Belo. I was still finding my

way in wine, and until then had mostly

thought in terms of taste and structure.

But this bottle was different – it spoke of

soil, hands, and wild Slovenian beauty.

It had raw honesty and soul. That wine

shifted everything for me. I realised wine


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INTERVIEW

could be a vessel for identity, emotion,

even philosophy.

Your 2018 Nero di Troia and venison pairing

has become something of a signature – what

made it so unforgettable?

The wine had tension and elegance, with

dark fruit, wild herbs and spice. I paired

it with gently smoked venison, forest

berries and juniper – a dish that echoed

the forest-like soul of the wine. It was one

of those rare moments where food and

wine didn’t just complement each other –

they recognised each other. Guests would

fall silent after their first taste. It was a

moment of truth.

How do you build relationships with

winemakers, and why is that connection

so important?

It always starts in the vineyard. I walk

the land, listen to their stories, and try

to understand their values, challenges

and vision. That personal connection

brings meaning to my work – I’m

not just pouring a glass; I’m sharing

someone’s life’s work. It also builds trust.

Winemakers often share special bottles

with me, and I become an ambassador for

their philosophy. That intimacy shows in

every pairing I create.

Name one Slovenian winemaker visit that

left a lasting impression.

Andrea at Hedele in the Vipava

Valley. From the moment I arrived, I

felt a profound harmony between his

philosophy, the land and the wine. His

commitment to authenticity was deeply

moving. Tasting his precise yet soulful

wines felt like hearing the true voice of

Vipava. It reminded me that integrity in

winemaking is everything.

You’re known for your intuitive, guest-focused

style – how do you read a table when pairing

on the spot?

I observe the moment guests walk in –

their energy, how they speak, how they

look at the menu. Are they curious?

Adventurous? Seeking comfort? These

subtle cues guide me. From there, I

trust my intuition. Sometimes that

means suggesting a bold orange wine;

sometimes it’s something softer. It’s never

about showing off – it’s about creating a

connection between guest and moment.

That’s where the magic happens.

How do you balance Slovenian boutique wines

with classic European names on your list?

By creating a dialogue. Slovenian wines

bring authenticity and a sense of place;

classic European labels offer familiarity

and elegance. I like to place them side by

side – say, a biodynamic Modra Frankinja

from the Karst beside a classic Burgundy

Pinot Noir. I share the stories behind

both, and that’s when guests open up.

Balance is about knowing your audience,

respecting tradition, and proudly

championing your roots.

As a storyteller through wine, how does

narrative shape your pairings?

Narrative is everything. Wine isn’t just

aroma and vintage – it’s meaning.

Each pairing tells a story: of a place, a

person, a moment in time. And when

guests understand that, they engage

more deeply. They remember it. That’s

what I love – giving someone a moment

they’ll carry with them. Storytelling

transforms hospitality into something

truly human.

You were named Sommelier of the Year by

JRE in Paris in 2024 – what did that mean to

you and to Slovenia?

It was incredibly humbling. Personally,

it felt like recognition for years of quiet

dedication. But more than that, it was

a moment of pride for Slovenia. Our

wine culture is small but rich, rooted

in tradition yet full of innovation.

That award felt like being seen – not

just for me, but for our winemakers

and vineyards. It gave me even more

motivation to share Slovenian wine with

the world.

What’s it like curating the wine programme

at JB Restaurant, so rooted in family

and heritage?

It’s a privilege and deeply personal. JB

is a reflection of our family’s history

and values. Every wine I choose must

complement the food, the space, and

the legacy of what my father built. But

it’s also my voice. I love working with

Slovenian winemakers who share our

philosophy, and I’m always exploring,

learning. Wine is alive, and so is a

restaurant. Curating the list is about

balancing heritage and innovation –

that’s what keeps it special.

You encourage young sommeliers to stay

humble and curious – what’s the best advice

you’ve received?

“Listen more than you speak.” It’s easy to

feel pressure to prove yourself, but true

growth comes from observing and asking

questions. I’ve learnt most in moments

when I didn’t try to have all the answers.

Staying humble doesn’t mean staying

small – it means knowing there’s always

more to learn. Passion and generosity go

further than ego ever will.

How is the role of the sommelier evolving –

especially in European fine dining?

The role is becoming more dynamic,

more human. It’s no longer about reciting

vintages in a suit – it’s about empathy,

storytelling, and making people feel at

ease. Today’s guests want character, not

just prestige. Sommeliers are becoming

guides, collaborators, even translators

– interpreting the kitchen, the guest,

and the wine in real time. Looking

ahead, sustainability and local identity

will matter even more. We’ll see more

focus on small producers and honest

wines. The lines between kitchen, farm

and floor are blurring – and that’s a

good thing. The future of

the sommelier isn’t just

knowledge. It’s heart.


141

raising the gin

bar in china

IN LIJIANG IN SOUTHWESTERN CHINA, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

MEETS A HUSBAND-AND-WIFE TEAM PRODUCING PREMIUM GINS WITH

UNIQUE YUNNAN BOTANICALS, AND TRYING TO EDUCATE A LARGELY

UNFAMILIAR CHINESE MARKET

Fraser Kennedy and Mia Sun

TASTE & SIP

GIN CULTURE

YOUYUN DISTILLING

CO. LTD.

➤ LIJIANG, YUNNAN, CHINA

GIN HAS LONG BEEN INTERTWINED

with Britain and Europe, where it has

progressed from humble medicinal roots

to become a pillar of cocktail culture and

a showcase for craft distilling. Over the

past two decades, a new generation of

small producers has redefined the spirit,

experimenting with regionally distinctive

botanicals, unexpected ingredients and

innovative flavour profiles. Germanmade

Monkey 47 is a prime example – a

once-niche creation that has become an

international benchmark for quality and

imagination. In China, however, gin is

still in its infancy, with nothing like the

visibility or cultural presence enjoyed by

whisky, baijiu, or wine.

WHEN MIA SUN AND FRASER

Kennedy founded YouYun Distilling in

2019, they set out to create spirits that

would put Yunnan’s unique flavours on

the map. Today, from their rather wellequipped

and spacious base in Lijiang in

southwestern China, they produce gins

built on classic distilling traditions, but

defined by botanicals sourced from across

the province – from Wild Purple Camellia

and Buddha’s Hand, to sweet osmanthus,

calamansi limes, and green Pu’er tea. In

a country where gin remains unfamiliar

to a large proportion of local drinkers,

their ambition is clear: to make premium

Chinese gin that can stand alongside the

best in the world.

THEIR JOURNEY TOWARDS

distilling began the year before the

company was founded, during a trek

through the village of Nizu. Early in the

trip, they spotted a pair of Blue Magpies

– birds that in Chinese culture symbolise

joy, good fortune, and enduring bonds. The

encounter inspired them to create a spirit

that captured the essence of Yunnan’s

biodiversity and culture. The Blue Magpie

became the emblem for Wild Mist Gin

and remains a central part of the brand

identity today.

BASING THEMSELVES IN LIJIANG

made sense for both practical and creative

reasons. Rents are relatively low, allowing

YouYun to occupy premises with ample

space for distillation, bottling, storage, and

product development. And equipment costs

in China are significantly lower than in

Europe, enabling the distillery to invest

early in a wide range of stills, tanks, and

filtration systems. So, for such a young

operation, the scale and scope of YouYun’s

set-up impress, and gives the couple

freedom to refine their methods while

experimenting with new recipes.

WILD MIST GIN’S FLAVOUR

profile opens with earthy pine and

angelica on the nose, followed by floral

notes and hints of candied orange. On

the palate, warm juniper is balanced

by sweet liquorice and nutmeg, which

lingers through the finish. The Wild

Purple Camellia adds delicate jasmine,

rose and green tea tones, linking the

gin unmistakably to its Yunnan origins.

These distinctive layers are supported

by a selection of botanicals unique to the

region: fragrant Buddha’s Hand, sweet

osmanthus blossoms, long pepper, bright

green Pu’er tea, and citrusy calamansi

limes. From Yunnan’s highlands come


143

TASTE & SIP

GIN CULTURE

Fraser Kennedy

further notes of angelica, liquorice, and

fresh ginger, each contributing its own

complexity and depth, making the gin

truly unique.

BEYOND WILD MIST, YOUYUN

produces The Rambler Expedition

Strength Gin. At 58% ABV, it’s obviously

designed for experienced gin drinkers,

delivering a bold and complex character

while deftly maintaining its balance.

This strong gin also forms the base of a

second product – Waqilin Mango Liqueur

– which blends Expedition Strength

Gin with locally grown mangoes and

is bottled at 10% ABV. Its low alcoholic

content and fruit-forward flavour profile

make it easier to introduce to new

customers, and it is currently being sold

across China. The liqueur has become an

important way of building recognition for

the name in restaurants and bars, and

creates something of a bridge, offering

an accessible way in for those who have

never tried gin before.

WHILE THE DISTILLERY’S

production is rooted in Lijiang, YouYun’s

outlook is international. Kennedy brings

experience of Western gin traditions,

while Sun understands the preferences

and cultural cues of the Chinese market.

Together, they have created a product

that is recognisably part of the

global gin family, yet firmly tied to its

regional identity.

Kunming Rose

THE COMPANY’S PORTFOLIO IS

steadily expanding. Alongside Wild Mist,

Expedition Strength, and the mango

liqueur, YouYun also produces Chalu

Sparkling Tea, adding a palatable nonalcoholic

option to its range. All share the

same underlying philosophy: to showcase

Yunnan’s “untamed spirit” through

flavour, and to create products that reflect

the diversity and vibrancy of the province.

FROM THEIR WELL-EQUIPPED

distillery in one of China’s most visited

cities, Mia Sun and Fraser Kennedy

are redefining what it means to make

gin in China. They have the tools,

local resources, and ambition to create

products that appeal to both seasoned

gin enthusiasts and complete newcomers.

With plans to develop new botanicals,

strengthen their presence in the

domestic market, and expand exports,

YouYun Distilling is poised to become a

key player in the country’s emerging gin

industry. And while China’s gin story

may still be in its early chapters, the

work being done by this couple in Lijiang

is ensuring that the spirit and flavours

of Yunnan’s are already part of

the narrative.

youyundistilling


LITTLE BLACK BOOK

WEB DIRECTORY FOR THE ELEVENTH ANNIVERSARY

EDITION OF THE CULTURED TRAVELLER MAGAZINE

A

ABBA VOYAGE

➤ https://abbavoyage.com

ALBA WHITE TRUFFLE FAIR

➤ www.fieradeltartufo.org

ALBUQUERQUE

BALLOON FIESTA

➤ https://balloonfiesta.com

AUSTIN CITY LIMITS

MUSIC FESTIVAL

➤ www.aclfestival.com

B

BANYAN TREE DUBAI

➤ www.banyantree.com

BANYAN TREE RINGHA

➤ www.banyantree.com

BERLIN FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS

➤ https://festival-of-lights.de/en

BRDA TOURISM

➤ www.brda.si/en

BRISBANE GOOD FOOD

& WINE SHOW

➤ www.goodfoodshow.com.au

BURNING BARRELS AT

OTTERY ST MARY

➤ www.tarbarrels.co.uk

CCARBON GARDEN

➤ www.kew.org/kew-gardens

FFAIRMONT UDAIPUR PALACE

➤ www.fairmont.com

FRIEZE LONDON

➤ www.frieze.com

GGIANNI VERSACE

RETROSPECTIVE

➤www gianniversac

retrospective.com

GLORIA ESTEFAN

➤ https://gloriaestefan.com

GRAND PLAZA HOTEL,

LJUBLJANA

➤ www.grandplazahotel.si

GRAJSKA VINOTEKA

➤ https://grajskavinoteka.si

H

HERMANUS WHALE FESTIVAL

➤ hermanuswhalefestival.co.za

HOTEL CONTINENTAL, MIAMI

➤ www.tapestrycollection.com

J

JB RESTAURANT, LJUBLJANA

➤ https://jb-slo.com

K

KMETIJA HEDELE

➤ https://www.hedele.si

KOZINC WINERY

➤ www.vino-kozinc.com/en

MMAROF WINERY

➤ www.marof.eu/winery

ME MARBELLA

➤ www.mebymelia.com

MONDRIAN GOLD COAST

➤ www.mondrianhotels.com

MOVIA WINERY

➤ https://movia.si/en

N

NEKAJUI, A RITZ-

CARLTON RESERVE

➤ www.ritzcarlton.com

Bagan, Myanmar, photographed by İzzet Keribar (page 72)

NYMFES HOTEL, SIFNOS

➤ https://nymfes.gr

Q

QASR AL SARAB

DESERT RESORT

➤ www.anantara.com/en

R

RAFFLES SENTOSA SINGAPORE

www.raffles.com

ROSEWOOD MIYAKOJIMA

➤ www.rosewoodhotels.com

S

SAM MCKNIGHT

➤ https://sammcknight.com

SALON DU CHOCOLAT

➤ www.salonduchocolat.fr

SLOVENIAN TOURISM BOARD

➤ www.slovenia.info/en

TTASHAS BATTERSEA

➤ www.tashascafe.com

THE EDINBURGH GRAND

➤ www.theedinburghgrand.com

THE MILLEN PENANG

➤ www.themillenpenang.com

THE STANDARD, SINGAPORE

➤ www.standardhotels.com

WEB DIRECTORY

VVILLA LA VEDETTA

➤ www.castellodivicarello.com

VINOTEKA MOVIA

➤ https://movia.si/en/wine-bar

VISIT LJUBLJANA

➤ www.visitljubljana.com/en

W

WESTIN NIRUP ISLAND RESORT

➤ http://www.marriott.com/bthni

WEXFORD FESTIVAL OPERA

➤ www.wexfordopera.com

WINE BAR ŠUKLJE

➤ https://winebar.suklje.com

W XI’AN HOTEL

➤ https://w-hotels.marriott.com

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER 145

TRAVEL TIPS FROM THE TOP

sam

mcknight

SAM McKNIGHT HAS TOUCHED THE TRESSES OF ICONS

FROM KATE MOSS TO PRINCESS DIANA, AND HIS SENSE

OF STYLE TRAVELS JUST AS WELL AS HIS LEGENDARY

TALENT. WE ASK THE CELEBRATED HAIRDRESSER

TWELVE QUESTIONS ABOUT HOW HE PACKS, STAYS

POLISHED ON THE MOVE, AND THE LITTLE LUXURIES

THAT KEEP HIM GROUNDED IN TRANSIT

Sam with his dog, Stanley

DO YOU TRAVEL LIGHT OR ALWAYS

CHECK IN BAGS? It depends. I recently

flew to Norway for one night and just took

my backpack. I know how to travel light

when needed, but sometimes I like to have

a few luxuries for a holiday rather than a

work trip.

HOW DO YOU STAY COMFORTABLE

YET STYLISH WHEN YOU'RE FLYING?

Light layers and comfortable clothes. I tend

to stick to classic dark colours to hide any

spills, and Uniqlo sweatpants or items

that don’t crease easily. A cashmere

Begg x Co jumper and Rototo socks are

also staples.

WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR CARRY-ON,

ARE YOU A FAN OF CLASSIC LEATHER,

OR DO YOU PREFER SOMETHING

MORE FUNCTIONAL? Both! I’ve been

using Tumi carry-on cases and my Porter

shoulder bag for years – they definitely

tick both boxes.

ANY TIPS FOR LOOKING FRESH AFTER

A LONG-HAUL FLIGHT? A good face wash

and a teeth brush sort me

right out, followed by a sweep

of Charlotte Tilbury Magic

Cream. I always take my

Dream Distillery Drops for

great sleep and to help reset

my body clock.

AND HAIRCARE TIPS TO NOURISH

YOUR LOCKS WHILE IN THE SKY? A

nourishing balm and a loose style – like

a braid or ponytail – help keep things

polished and hydrated during a flight.

ARE THERE ANY PARTICULAR PLACES

OR CITIES THAT ALWAYS INSPIRE YOU

CREATIVELY? Always Paris or Rome.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE AIRPORT

FOR BOTH EASE AND STYLE? Heathrow

Terminal 5. It’s the one I use most often, so

I know it well. I know exactly where to go

for some downtime before my flight, and I’ve

got my routine down to a T. The BA

lounge even has Tanqueray Sevilla

non-alcoholic gin.

IS THERE A BEAUTY PRODUCT

OR TOOL YOU ALWAYS CARRY,

NO MATTER WHERE YOU’RE

HEADED? An electric toothbrush

and a Diptyque Figuier mini candle.

WHAT’S ALWAYS IN YOUR HAND

LUGGAGE? A book or two. I’m an avid

reader, so I always have at least one

on the go.

IS THERE A HOTEL THAT ALWAYS

FEELS LIKE HOME? Claridge’s.

FINALLY, WHERE DO YOU

FEEL MOST EFFORTLESSLY

STYLISH? Ibiza.

HOW DO YOU KEEP

YOUR GROOMING

ROUTINE SHARP WHILE

CONSTANTLY ON THE

MOVE? I have a fantastic

Skull Shaver that keeps

everything neat and

trimmed, and I rely

on a curated skincare

routine from 111Skin and

Augustinus Bader.

Paris


Fringed by the sparkling waters of the western Aegean Sea,

and set against a lush, hilly backdrop adorned with colourful

bougainvillea, Maçakızı is truly in a hospitality world of its own.

+90 252 311 24 00 │ @ macakizihotel

DISCOVER EXCEPTIONAL LUXURY

IN THE HEART OF VIENNA

LUXURY IS PERSONAL

parkhyattvienna.com

(51) The Cultured Traveller - Eleventh Anniversary Edition, September-November 2025 Issue 51

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