NetJets EU Autumn 2025
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THE QUARTER SHARE
- A n IsI
land Sanc t u ary like no oth e r
cd: ROBB AARON GORDON
LOVELANAI.COM
Talaia ©Jaume Plensa, courtesy of the artist
THE NETJETS—THE QUARTER SHARE QUARTER BY NETJETS SHARE
10
Throughout the year, and no matter
the season, evolution is always on our
minds. As such, we have been focusing on
expanding our already exceptional fleet –
an ongoing growth strategy that is
highlighted in this edition.
Our new Embraer Praetor 500 officially took to the skies in
July. With industry-leading speed, state-of-the-art technology
and a comfortable cabin experience, the aircraft complements
our midsize US lineup – you can check out its impressive
stats on page 64. In addition to the Praetor, we plan to add
the Cessna Citation Ascend to the US fleet in mid-February.
Every aircraft addition helps us travel further together.
No matter your destination, we look forward to creating
exceptional experiences, memorable moments and
lasting connections.
Only NetJets!
Harry Seymour
Having recently worked on a list, for
Christie’s, that homed in on the art
world’s top 100 Instagram accounts,
the London-based writer was well
placed to distil the rise of artists
self-promoting their work via social
media. Find out who to follow in
Insta Success (page 44).
Dustin LeFevre
The Utah-based fine-art photographer
spent his childhood taking snaps of the
Oquirrh Mountains, where he was raised.
His innate talent shines through in Turn,
Turn, Turn (page 54), a photographic love
letter to the underappreciated leafpeeping
season of the American West.
Elisa Vallata
With a skill set ranging from art
direction to editing, Italian-born, Britishbased
Vallata is almost as versatile as
the rainbow-like assortment of jewels
she styled for True Colours (page 68) –
not to mention the chameleon she cast
to star in the photoshoot.
Adam Johnson
Chairman and CEO
Chris Hall
In an age of characterless smart watches,
the seasoned journalist is passionate
about sharing the stories behind some
of the world’s greatest traditional
timepieces. In Crowning Achievements
(page 74), he reveals the latest designs
made with both groundbreaking
technology and an abundance of style.
10
Lucy Kehoe
Few ingredients connect gastronomy
with a sense of place as potently as
truffles, which made them ideal subject
matter for the food and travel writer
with a strong environmental interest,
as showcased in her tale of the fêted
fungi’s European resurgence in What
Lies Beneath (page 82).
THE NETJETS—THE QUARTER SHARE QUARTER BY NETJETS SHARE
44
54
74
12
Belle du Jour
With a reenergised hospitality offering,
Charleston’s charms are more beguiling than ever.
pages 16-24
Host with the Most
With Columbus hotel The Junto, Rockbridge CEO
Jimmy Merkel delivers hospitality with heart.
pages 26-28
Old is New Again
In Minneapolis, vintage baseball gloves are being
quietly revamped for both play and posterity.
pages 30-32
Urbane Evolutions
Six cities changing up their cultural fabric
through culinary and artistic renaissances.
pages 34-43
Scrolling with It
Aided by social media, next-gen creatives are
reframing art’s journey from studio to global stage.
pages 44-52
Through the Leaves
For landscapes burnished in seasonal gold and
bronze, we take a peep out to the American West.
pages 54-63
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY LUCIENNE O’MARA, DUSTIN LEFEVRE, © BVLGARI
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: GABRIELA HERMAN / GALLERY STOCK, MATEJ PALUH, GREG BRAVE / SHUTTERSTOCK
34
Change in the Air
A sleek package of pace and performance, the
Embraer Praetor 500 is uplifting mid-range flying.
pages 64-67
Full Spectrum
Multihued jewellery to transform autumn’s most
elegant looks in chameleon-like style.
pages 68-73
Dialling it Up
Melding design wizardry with craftsmanship,
the latest haute timepieces are second to none.
pages 74-77
64
A Life Transformed
How Mayo Clinic’s Dr Dawn Mussallem beat
overwhelming health odds to thrive as an athlete.
pages 78-80
Unexpected Treasures
Across Europe, truffles are being rediscovered,
from Greek forests to England’s chalk downs.
pages 82-88
Art of the Season
NYC’s just-renovated Studio Museum in Harlem
sheds new light on African American talent.
page 90
82
TABLE OF CONTENTS
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On the Cover
Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, whose magnificent
19th-century dome still encapsulates the city’s evolving
identity. Photograph by Arno Partissimo
Editor in Chief
Thomas Midulla
Editor
Farhad Heydari
Creative Director
Anne Plamann
Photo Director
Martin Kreuzer
Writers, contributors,
photographers and illustrators
Stephanie Burt, Alex Foster,
Chris Hall, Katy Spratte Joyce,
Jörn Kaspuhl, Lucy Kehoe, Dustin
LeFevre, Harry Seymour, Michael
Verdon, Xavier Young
Published by JI Experience GmbH,
Thomas-Dehler-Straße 2,
81737 Munich, Germany
The Quarter Share by NetJets is
the official title for Owners of
NetJets in Europe.
The Quarter Share by NetJets
is published quarterly by JI
Experience GmbH on behalf of
NetJets Inc.
NetJets Inc.
4111 Bridgeway Avenue
Columbus, Ohio 43219,
United States of America
netjets.com
+1 614 338 8091
Art Director
Anja Eichinger
Managing Editor
Claudia Whiteus
Group Publisher
Christian Schwalbach
Michael Klotz (Associate)
Advertising Sales
14
Editor at Large
Emma Ventura
Staff Writer
John McNamara
Chief Sub-Editor
Vicki Reeve
Editorial Assistant
Jamie Watkins
Production Director
Albert Keller
Separation
Jennifer Wiesner
Europe
Katherine Galligan
katherine@metropolist.co.uk
Vishal Raguvanshi
vishal@metropolist.co.uk
US
Jill Stone
jstone@bluegroupmedia.com
Eric Davis
edavis@bluegroupmedia.com
Rachel Hale
rhale@bluegroupmedia.com
Copyright © 2025
by JI Experience GmbH. All rights
reserved. Reproduction in whole or
in part without the express written
permission of the publisher is
strictly prohibited. The publisher,
NetJets Inc., and its subsidiaries
or affiliated companies assume
no responsibility for errors and
omissions and are not responsible
for unsolicited manuscripts,
photographs or artwork. Views
expressed are not necessarily those
of the publisher or NetJets Inc.
Information is correct at time of
going to press.
BY APPOINTMENT TO
HIS MAJESTY THE KING
MANUFACTURER AND SUPPLIER OF FOOTWEAR
CROCKETT & JONES LIMITED, NORTHAMPTON MADE IN ENGLAND | SINCE 1879
CROCKETTANDJONES.COM
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QUEEN OF THE SOUTH
To Charleston’s historic cobblestone streets, mossy oaks and
sun-swept beaches, add a heritage-sensitive mix of new hotels,
cultural and dining attractions – all seasoned with the city’s
famous southern hospitality. By Stephanie Burt
16
CHECKING IN
Over the past decade, Charleston has shaken off its Old
South sleepiness while still retaining much of its charm.
The tourists have come flocking, and with them, the
construction of many new hotels. While some feel like
more of the same in slightly different wrappings, a few
stand out, beginning with one of the anchors in town, The
Charleston Place (charlestonplace.com). The distinctive
grand staircase remains a centrepiece, but beyond it, a
$150 million renovation is transforming other spaces,
from rooms to spa to dining, including a new, year-long
From top: a view of
the city’s historic
downtown from a
Juliet balcony at The
Charleston Place
hotel; acclaimed
chef Daniel Humm,
whose Charleston
Place residency
kicked off this
autumn
FROM TOP: PETER FRANK EDWARDS, © THE CHARLESTON PLACE
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From top: The Nickel
Hotel’s Europeaninspired
central
courtyard; inside a
cottage-chic suite at
The Dunlin hotel
18
Daniel Humm residency that began this
October in the former Charleston Grill space.
The boutique 86 Cannon (86cannon.com)
has recently been fully realised, after owners
Lori and Marion Hawkins completed a longterm
restoration of this 1860s-era Greek
revival property last year, turning it into an
old-school, 10-room inn blending heritage
values with contemporary luxury.
Two newly constructed hotels, The
Nickel Hotel (nickelhotel.com) and The
Dunlin, Auberge Collection (auberge.
com), nod to the past with a firm eye on
the future. The former sports a King Street
façade with distinctive arched windows
encased in pre-cast concrete, behind
which a lush courtyard is surrounded by
50 lovingly detailed rooms and suites with
plenty of opulent flourishes. In contrast,
The Dunlin, tucked some 30 kilometres
away on the Kiawah River on Johns Island,
recalls a bygone era of breezy, Sea Island
retreats. Incorporating porches, gabled
roofs and 72 cottage rooms, architect
Robert Glazier designed the property in
such a way as to work within the ecosystem
rather than sit on top of it. That means
plenty of open space to observe the
area’s distinctive flora and fauna, be it
Spanish moss moving with the breeze in
the surrounding oak trees or a snowy egret
catching its dinner. It’s rustic elegance,
with wicker accent pieces adding to the
atmosphere, but modern amenities like the
spa – always an Auberge Resorts signature
– as well as a beautifully designed pool at
the river’s edge, keeping the luxury firmly
in the present.
FROM TOP: MATTHEW WILLIAMS, PETER FRANK EDWARDS / REDUX / LAIF; OPPOSITE PAGE: CAMERON WILDER
The dinner crowd alights
at Italian eatery Sorelle,
set within a pair of
restored buildings on
Broad Street
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
EATING OUT
Charleston’s dining scene is also experiencing a burst of creativity inspired by ingredients
rooted in tradition and place, cast through a kaleidoscope of cooking styles. Style is the name
of the game at the recently opened Marbled & Fin (marbledandfin.com), which pays homage to
the glorious mid-century steakhouse tradition, with an interior featuring luxurious banquettes,
plenty of glass, wood and MCM detailing, which sets off its excellent menu of cooked-toperfection
steakhouse classics, including seared wagyu and local raw-bar offerings with Regiis
Ova Caviar service. In fact, unique settings are one of the things that place Charleston dining in
a class of its own. On Broad Street, Sorelle (sorellecharleston.com) meanders elegantly through
multiple historic buildings, so there are plenty of unique tables at which to enjoy one of its
signature dishes – perhaps Pillows of Gold (ricotta tortelloni, prosciutto cotto and balsamico
extravecchio) or Chicken Milanese with local tomatoes.
Merci (mercichs.com), another European-inspired offering, is truly a study in the
perfect marriage of setting and culinary talent – in this case of chef Michael Zentner,
who uses a bevy of local ingredients to paint fine portraits of seasonal selections
in the front room of a 19th-century former residence. Meanwhile, the team behind
Chubby Fish (chubbyfishcharleston.com), which recently landed at number 19 on this year’s 50 Best 19
THE QUARTER SHARE BY NETJETS
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Clockwise from above left: a corner booth at Sorelle looks out to
the 18th-century St Michael’s Church; the laid-back scene at
Coming Street seafood joint Chubby Fish; Merci’s slow-cooked
chicken with braised greens and crispy duck ballotine
Restaurants list for North America, has opened, just
next door, a bar named Seahorse (seahorsechs.com).
Here, where the Elizabeth Ingram-designed interior is
as quirky yet refined as its sister restaurant, ice-cold
whiskey highballs from a Suntory highball machine are
a staple of the menu, as is the freshly fried cacio e pepe
potato chips, piled high with shredded parmesan.
Speaking of whiskey, local maker High Wire
Distilling (highwiredistilling.com), which has
consecutively taken home multiple golds at the San
Francisco World Spirits Competition for its Jimmy
Red Corn Bourbon expressions, is releasing some
exciting new offerings from its Charleston rickhouse,
including a seven-year-aged wheated Jimmy Red
Corn Bourbon, a Double Oak Jimmy Red Bourbon and
a four-year Bottle in Bond peach brandy, all distilled
from South Carolina products.
Spoleto Festival (spoletousa.org), an arts and
culture powerhouse founded in 1977, is still going
strong each May, but in the modern era, the city
has begun to fill with revelry on a regular basis.
Building on the budding restaurant scene when
it began 20 years ago, Charleston Wine + Food
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PETER FRANK EDWARDS, SQUIRE FOX, LINDSEY SHORTER
egwu
BANQUIERS
SWISS PRIVATE BANKERS SINCE 1886
WWW.GUTZWILLER.CH
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The bar at High Wire Distilling offers a glimpse into
the production of its award-winning bourbon
(chswf.org) will celebrate two decades
when it returns in March 2026, filling
the city with signature dinners, beverage
seminars and tasting-tent excess.
Food & Wine Classic Charleston
(foodandwineclassicincharleston.com)
added to the city’s culinary blueprint
when it launched last year, bringing
with it a new level of close-up culinary
star power, including Emeril Lagasse,
Tyler Florence and Maneet Chauhan
to hungry audiences. It also hosts its
own flavour of special events filtered
through the magazine’s specific lens in a
multiday offering, with guests treated to
seminars, live-cooking events and plenty
of celebrity chef demos at Charleston
Gaillard Center (gaillardcenter.org).
FROM TOP: PETER FRANK EDWARDS, MCG PHOTOGRAPHY
BROWSING AROUND
22
Beyond food, the city has always been a favoured stop
on the regional indie-music scene, and since 2017,
the High Water festival (highwaterfest.com) at North
Charleston’s Riverfront Park has placed it on the
national radar, with bigger acts filling the two-day bill
each year, from Jack White and Beck to Mavis Staples.
The Gibbes Museum of Art, a Charleston institution,
is also reaching new audiences through Art Charleston
(gibbesmuseum.org), a five-day celebration of visual
arts that expands beyond traditional offerings and
explores Charleston’s evolving cultural identity across
mediums, from fashion and landscape to culinary
excellence. Held every April, next year’s dynamic
event will feature luncheons and lectures, an artisan
community fair and a street party, with all proceeds
going back into the local community.
And for those who want to take art home, not just
celebrate it, Corrigan Gallery (corrigangallery.com), located
on atmospheric Queen Street and celebrating 20 years in
2025, remains one of the best places to peruse. With estate
pieces from Elizabeth O’Neill Verner and Alfred Hutty, plus
Perusing the vast offerings at The Gibbes Museum of Art
THE QUARTER SHARE BY NETJETS
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Blue skies over King Street, Charleston’s
boutique-filled shopping stretch
contemporary local artists such as Hirona
Matsuda and Midge Peery, it achieves the
perfect balance between traditional and
modern.
For more shopping, the aforementioned
Charleston Place renovation has welcomed
higher-end outlets such as Gucci and Louis
Vuitton in the hotel’s signature shops. A
standout on that portion of King Street is
Estelle Colored Glass (estellecoloredglass.
com), founded by the Lowcountry’s
Stephanie Summerson Hall and offering a
rainbow’s array of collectable hand-blown
glass. Her signature is pieces that are
elegant yet full of whimsy, displayed in an allneutral
store that feels like it is showcasing
jewellery. The King Street Antiques District
(from Queen Street to Broad Street) is a
destination district to shop for heirloom
jewellery as well as significant antiques
from the past 300 years, many of which
have graced Charleston homes of the past.
For clothing, fans of high fashion
head to Hampden (hampdenclothing.
com), a destination in its own right
thanks to a variety of offerings from
close to 100 designers, including Isabel
Marant, Dries Van Noten, Lanvin and
Tibi. Although the women’s clothing
boutique has been heralded many times
through the years, it remains fresh
because of its focus on contemporary
and innovative designers and the ability
of its staff to expertly match its clientele
to those that will make them shine.
M Dumas & Sons (mdumasandsons.com),
family-owned for more than 100 years,
remains known for its traditional men’s
clothing and exceptional tailoring –
everything from sportswear by Barbour
to trench coats and Lucchese shoes. Go
on any weekend, and the store is bustling,
with many shoppers, glass of whiskey
in hand, getting measured for a suit or
tailored shirt. It’s a fitting metaphor for
a city rooted in tradition but still always
looking toward the new.
PETER FRANK EDWARDS / REDUX / LAIF
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HOMETOWN SPARK
Rockbridge CEO Jimmy Merkel’s path comes full circle with
The Junto, Columbus, Ohio, a boutique hotel that embodies his
community-first philosophy. By Katy Spratte Joyce
26
T
hat spark was lit right away,” says
Jimmy Merkel, CEO and cofounder of
Rockbridge, reflecting on the moment
The Junto opened its doors in his
hometown of Columbus, Ohio. A ground-up
project years in the making, the boutique hotel
was thoughtfully envisioned not just as a place
to stay, but as a kind of living room for the city.
The Trade Room, The Junto’s buzzing groundfloor
hub, quickly became a vibrant space for
coffee, conversation and connection. It was
clear early on that this wasn’t just a hotel; it
was a place where people wanted to be. Merkel
recalls standing quietly inside, watching it all
unfold. “I thought to myself, ‘This is going to
work; this is resonating.’” The atmosphere was
alive, grounded in intention. “Downstairs was
hopping. It was relevant by definition, [where]
you feel like you’re in the right place,” he adds.
Merkel’s journey to opening The Junto began
three decades ago, when he was a student at
the University of Michigan, interning with
Banc One Capital Markets, where he later
launched his career. “I thought I needed to go
to a big city to do investing,” Merkel recalls.
But at Banc, and later Rockbridge, he gained
a holistic perspective, learning from experts
who understood every facet of hospitality,
and he was able to do it right at home. That
early exposure ignited a lasting passion, and
in 1999, when Banc’s real-estate arm spun off
to form Rockbridge, he was one of the original
Right: the cosy
living room of
The Junto’s East
Loft suite
Below: the Belle
Street entrance
of The Juno,
Rockbridge’s new
hotel in downtown
Columbus
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
FROM TOP: MELISSA CHU, © THE JUNTO
four employees. At its core, he emphasises,
“we are a real-estate hospitality investment
group. Every operating component we build is
designed to increase the odds of growing realestate
value for our investors.”
“I love that this type of investment
activates both sides of the brain,” he adds.
“It lets me use strategy and creativity to build
value in a way that feels meaningful.” Eighteen
years ago, when Rockbridge reorganised,
Merkel became CEO and has since shaped the
company’s unique approach as a vertically
integrated hospitality-focused investment
firm. Keeping development and operations
in-house gives Rockbridge a competitive edge
by ensuring quality control throughout every
stage of the project lifecycle. Merkel stresses,
“That integration leads to better assets and
the ability to drive more risk-adjusted value.”
Rockbridge has also benefited from the
evolution of consumer travel preferences,
where technology and cultural shifts mean
travellers have started valuing authentic,
independent experiences over cookie-cutter
options. These trends have helped bring
independent hotels into the mainstream,
creating a natural opening for Rockbridge’s
MakeReady brand, launched in 2015.
27
THE QUARTER SHARE BY NETJETS
“WE CAN DO BUSINESS,
DO IT WELL, AND DO GOOD
AT THE SAME TIME”
Top right:
Rockbridge CEO
Jimmy Merkel
Below, from left:
canapés and
cocktails at the
hotel’s Little West
Tavern; the striking
skyline view from
The Junto’s eighthfloor
Brass Eye bar
Today, with 18 properties scattered across the
US, MakeReady is still “just getting started”,
as Merkel puts it. “We saw a fragmented
market with growing demand,” he explains, “so
we built the business as a long-term solution.”
Running a hospitality business at this scale
demands a unique combination of skills. “The
operating side requires another competency,”
he notes. His team’s process and expertise drive
hotel value just as much as smart development.
The company’s recent acquisition of the Hotel
ZaZa group signals its ongoing ambition.
“The plan is to continue growing with the right
brands underneath our umbrella,” Merkel says.
Merkel’s rise to the upper echelon of
hospitality investing is well documented, but
it’s what you do at the top that truly defines you.
He attributes much of Rockbridge’s success
to a strong sense of community engagement.
“We want to enrich lives and cultivate value,”
Merkel says. That means doing business the
right way, with integrity, and a commitment
to giving back. Enter RTRX, a Merkel-founded
cancer-research fundraising organisation,
embodying his belief that “we can do business,
do it well, and do good at the same time.”
Reflecting on Rockbridge’s decades,
Merkel’s focus remains clear: “Our goal is to
build spaces and places where people want
to be, places that take care of the customer
and deliver true value.” The Junto is a clear
reflection of that ethos. It doesn’t just
add hotel rooms to the city of Columbus; it
adds life. And for Merkel, that’s the point.
thejuntohotel.com
28
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: © ROCKBRIDGE, COLIN MCGUIRE, © THE JUNTO
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PLAYING IT
In Minneapolis, a small workshop is breathing
new life into old baseball gloves – preserving
major-league gear and family heirlooms alike,
one stitch at a time.
By Josh Sims
30
BEFORE
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
AFTER
As a lifelong Minnesota Twins fan, Jimmy Lonetti says
he’s rather troubled by his team’s recent controversial
trades. But in a few seasons, those troubles will have been
forgotten. Besides, his work – restoring baseball gloves –
has him pondering the much longer term.
“I just fixed one customer’s glove – it was his father’s and
was given to him by his uncle, who’d play catch with it against
the barn door,” he says. “And now he’s using it again to play
with his own grandson. These gloves have sentimental value
for a lot of people.”
Maybe that’s why Lonetti receives gloves from all over the
US, from teams and private individuals alike. And why he pays
such close attention to making them good again. He has,
for example, gone down many a rabbit hole researching the
right leather lacing to use in, say, a specific model of glove
from the 1910s: “You just can’t use the wrong width lace
on a vintage glove,” he insists. Or experimenting with the
perfect leather conditioner (and no, it’s not shaving cream,
for its lanolin content, as baseball myth might suggest) to
get the right colour, or so a glove doesn’t look too new. Even
31
THE QUARTER SHARE BY NETJETS
Above: Jimmy Lonetti in his curio-filled shop in
Minneapolis’s eclectic Longfellow neighbourhood;
right: every glove that passes through D&J has
its own story to tell
32
apparent lost causes – cracked and dried out or chewed by
the family dog – are never as hopeless as they seem.
“I like to say that I never refuse a glove,” says Lonetti,
who opened D&J Glove Repair in Minneapolis three years
ago, likely making him and his son and partner, Dominic,
the only baseball-glove repair specialists in the country.
The move to a brick-and-mortar shop came after some 12
years of fixing up gloves from his garage – a retirement
gig following a long career with the US Postal Service.
“I sometimes surprise myself at how I can patch together
something functional again. And it needs to be fit for play
again, not to hang on a wall.”
Not that Lonetti sees any problem with this – the walls
of his own shop are lined with his collection of Twins
memorabilia. And certainly, he’s especially appreciative
of gloves from the 1960s and 1970s, when – before the
forced growth methods of industrial cattle farming – hides
were of a higher quality: strong, soft and lustrous. It’s just
that he hates seeing children new to baseball playing with
neon vinyl gloves when they could be starting out with a
timeworn classic.
He’s not alone. A while back, a woman sent him three
worn-out gloves used by her son, who had died in a house fire.
She told Lonetti, it would help her “heart heal to see them
fixed and to know they were being used again by some kids.”
Lonetti duly made that happen. While he concedes that this
particular story is something of a tearjerker, he finds that
his efforts are usually more about delivering outright joy.
“It’s for all those people who want to create that famous Field
of Dreams scene – and they send me pictures of them doing
just that with what is a family heirloom,” he says.
“Gloves can bond the generations together,” he adds. “It’s
very rewarding for me to rescue a glove and know it’s back
out there being played with. And it’s relaxing and meditative
work for me. I put a ball game on the radio, and the time just
flies.” djgloverepair.com
ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF D&J GLOVE REPAIR
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La Cité du Vin museum,
crowned by a 180-foot
tower that swirls
above the Garonne River
in Bordeaux
34
CITIES
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
IN
BLOOM
The most storied destinations sell themselves, but that
leaves, well, the rest of the world. Here, we home in on six
alternative global metropoles – fast-evolving hotspots of
gastronomy, culture and creativity – ripe for rediscovery.
By Emma Ventura
35
THE QUARTER SHARE BY NETJETS
36
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: © ARS ELECTRONICA, STEFAN BONESS / VISUM, GABRIELA HERMAN / GALLERY STOCK, ALEXIS GERBAUD / UNSPLASH; PREVIOUS SPREAD: © LA CITÉ DU VIN
Facing page, clockwise from top left: Linz’s
Danube-front Ars Electronica Center,
a cutting-edge hub for new media art;
a mural depicting Joy Division’s late
frontman Ian Curtis graces a historic
façade in Manchester’s Northern Quarter;
Austin keeps it weird outside the
legendary Continental Club; dusk falls over
Bordeaux’s La Cité du Vin museum and the
Jacques Chaban-Delmas bridge beyond
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
Bordeaux, France
With vineyards increasingly opening
their doors to visitors, the wine in and
around Bordeaux is flowing more freely
than ever – but the city itself is the
real revelation
In recent decades, a sweeping urban
renewal has scrubbed its limestone façades
back to golden brilliance and returned the
shine to landmarks such as the Miroir d’Eau
reflecting pool, with the Unesco-listed
city centre navigated via a cable-free tram
system. The 2016 unveiling of the enormous
La Cité du Vin cemented Bordeaux’s place
INIGO BUJEDO AGUIRRE / VIEW / ALAMY
at the top of the global wine pantheon, but
newer cultural powerhouses – such as the
MÉCA arts hub and the immersive Bassins
des Lumières, one of the world’s largest
digital galleries – have broadened its
appeal. Beyond the architectural highlights,
the Darwin Eco-système – a locus of ecofriendly
restaurants, stores, event spaces
and start-ups on the right bank of the
Garonne river – and lively multicultural
markets perfectly encapsulate the city’s
new attitude. Bordeaux may be synonymous
with wine, but today it offers far more than
just a vineyard pilgrimage.
Today’s Pour
Offering wines by the glass from every
Bordeaux appellation, Le Bar à Vin is a
Bordeaux institution.baravin.bordeaux.com
Manchester,
United Kingdom
Music has always been at the
heart of modern Manchester – from
hometown heroes Joy Division in the
1970s to The Haçienda, an iconic
1980s-1990s nightclub
Today, the beat is still pulsing but maturing,
as evidenced by Oasis, whose long-awaited
reunion lit up Heaton Park this past
summer, the arrival of the UK’s largest
music arena – Co-op Live, with a capacity
of 23,500 people – and the extensive
refurbishment of beloved live-music venue
Band on the Wall, set in a Victorian pub.
Above: within La
Cité du Vin, bottleshaped
columns
guide visitors
through the
exhibition path
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Below: inside
Band on the Wall,
a time-honoured
live-music venue
on Manchester’s
Swan Street
Today, the beat is still pulsing but
maturing, as evidenced by Oasis, whose
long-awaited reunion lit up Heaton Park
this past summer, the arrival of the UK’s
largest music arena – Co-op Live, with
a capacity of 23,500 people – and the
extensive refurbishment of beloved livemusic
venue Band on the Wall, set in a
Victorian pub. The city’s culinary scene,
which has long played second fiddle to
music, is also on song: this year has already
welcomed Shaun Moffat’s well-received
modern British restaurant, Winsome, the
first outpost of Italianate Lina Stores to
open outside of London, and Big Mamma’s
Sardinia-inspired Circolo Popolare. For
stylish stays, there’s chic pied-à-terre
Leven as well as the forthcoming Soho
House and Mollie’s motel. To boot, a new
Foster + Partners-designed Manchester
United stadium is in the works, and there’s
much heritage to discover all around town,
from suffragette Emmeline Pankhurst’s
former home to beautiful libraries (this
being a Unesco City of Literature), and the
Manchester Museum, recently crowned the
best in Europe.
What’s On
Catch two of the UK’s finest symphony
orchestras, Manchester’s Hallé and the BBC
Philharmonic, at a superb concert venue:
the city centre’s The Bridgewater Hall.
bridgewater-hall.co.uk
Little River,
Miami, Florida
Tucked just north of Wynwood and
Little Haiti, Little River has quietly
transformed from an industrial
backwater hub into an epicentre of
art, gastronomy and design
38
Taking its name from one of the city’s
few natural waterways, its weathered
warehouses hum with creative energy,
drawing artists, entrepreneurs and
Michelin-starred chefs. Imperial Moto
Café, a biker-chic coffeehouse, kickstarted
the buzz back in 2016, and it
still delivers great, sustainably grown
brews, but there’s plenty more to
choose from on the F&B front these
days, including La Natural, a Michelin
quadruple-Bib Gourmand pizzeria
serving minimal-intervention wines; and
JODY HARTLEY
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
ALFONSO DURAN / NYT / REDUX / LAIF
A convivial evening at
Sunny’s steakhouse –
which earned a spot on
The New York Times’s
50 best restaurants in
America list this year
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THE QUARTER SHARE BY NETJETS
40
The Art Deco-era
Industrial Trust
Building and the
1775-built First Baptist
Church in America rise
above Providence’s
historic skyline
STOCKSY
Ogawa, an 11-seat omakase gem with a
Michelin star. Sunny’s steakhouse serves
up retro glamour below a banyan tree,
while The Citadel – part food hall, part
rooftop hangout – packs in everything from
churros to cocktails with skyline views.
Retail is equally eclectic: from Carolina
K’s Latino-inspired luxury lifestyle store
to Mids Market’s thrifted treasures. With
construction in play on a new campus for
major artist support organisation Oolite
Arts, Little River looks set to continue as
Miami’s newest frontier of creative cool.
Perfectly Framed
Art underpins much in Little River;
experience it at Latin American-focused
contemporary gallery Dot Fiftyone, one of
Miami’s best. dotfiftyone.com
nearly 645 kilometres of sparkling coastline
– it was Sky Kim, of raw bar Gift Horse,
who wound up walking away with this
year’s James Beard Award for Best Chef:
Northeast, after all – or that Providence’s
colonial streets teem with students, artists
and innovators (this being home to the
world-renowned Rhode Island School of
Design). Regardless, it all comes together
at the recently opened Track 15, a 1,670sq
m food hall set in the former Union Station
that showcases some of the best culinary
talents in town.
High Tastes
Aperitivo hour at The Beatrice hotel,
where you’ll find the Bellini Rooftop bar,
a panoramic venue by Italian hospitality
royalty, Venice’s Cipriani family.
thebeatrice.com
Below: evocative
sculptures by
Piero Penizzotto
at Primary, a
public artscentred
gallery
in Miami’s
Little River
neighbourhood
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
Providence,
Rhode Island
Hungry? With restaurants, bars and
nightspots rivalling those of far bigger
cities, Rhode Island’s capital seems
on a mission of late: to prove the
country’s smallest state capable of
punching above its weight
ALFONSO DURAN / NYT / REDUX / LAIF
Four chefs and restaurants in Providence,
which has fewer than 195,000 residents,
were 2025 James Beard Foundation Award
finalists, and this eminently walkable city’s
25 eclectic neighbourhoods are abuzz
with diverse dining, from French-inspired
fine fare at Claudine to Uyghur noodles
at Jahunger and pantry staples at Nicks
on Broadway. It’s really no wonder, then,
that the city has begun luring diners from
neighbouring Massachusetts. It also can’t
hurt that the Ocean State is serviced by
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A long-exposure shot
captures Swarms,
Ars Electronica’s
drone-based light
performance over Linz
Linz, Austria
From sooty steel town to forwardlooking
cultural hub, the Danube city is
Austria’s underappreciated urban gem
Long dismissed as the country’s ugly
duckling – at least compared to its
famously gilt-trimmed cities, like Vienna
or Salzburg – these days, Linz is awash in
green spaces, aiming to be carbon neutral
by 2040. It also pulses with creativity,
anchored by the Ars Electronica Center,
a glassy, geometric beacon where art,
science and technology collide. Every
September, the Ars Electronica Festival
draws global crowds with its mindbending
mix of futurism and philosophy, while the
riverfront Donaupark stages the annual
spectacular Klangwolke sound-and-light
show, transforming the skyline and
river into a living artwork. Elsewhere,
Lentos Kunstmuseum showcases modern
masters in its light-filled galleries, and
Brucknerhaus concert hall offers a yearround
roster of events – many attended
by the city’s numerous music students.
Above it all sits Linz Castle, dating back
to the 14th century but with a sleek steeland-glass
cultural wing dedicated to the
history of Upper Austria, also conveniently
affording pretty views over the Old Town
and broader cityscape.
42
City Hack
Pick up a Linz-Card for easy access to
museums, exhibitions and public transport.
linztourismus.at
Austin, Texas
Few cities have reinvented
themselves as dramatically as this
hub of nearly one million
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
© INTEL CORPORATION / ARS ELECTRONICA
Once celebrated for its “slacker” spirit,
Austin is now a glittering cultural and tech
hub, where glassy towers rise beside storied
music halls and stylish new hotels welcome
an international crowd. Elevating the scene
in recent years have been the Commodore
Perry Estate, a Jazz Age mansion reborn as
part of Auberge Resorts; the Austin Proper
Hotel with Kelly Wearstler’s exotic interiors;
the restored mid-century Line Austin; Soho
House; and the botanically inspired Loren
at Lady Bird Lake. Next up: 1 Hotel Austin,
aiming for eco-cred while becoming the
city’s tallest tower. Austin’s dining scene has
soared, too. Breakfast tacos and barbecue
remain legendary – Franklin Barbecue is
still the benchmark – but now share the
spotlight with refined bistro dining at Le
Calamar, contemporary Caribbean brilliance
at Canje, omakase at Craft, modern Mexican
at Suerte and Este, and inventive wine bars
such as Birdie’s. Music is still the soul of
Austin, though: the likes of Willie Nelson
and Janis Joplin cut their teeth here, and
with iconic venues such as The Continental
Club and The Broken Spoke still humming
alongside glam newcomers like the
Prohibition-era inspired Nica on 4th, the
beat looks set to go on.
Festival Fever
Trademarked the “Live Music Capital of
the World”, Austin is especially famous
for its Austin City Limits and SXSW (South
by Southwest) festivals, which you can
catch in October and March, respectively.
aclfestival.com; sxsw.com
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Insta
Success
For many aspiring talents, discovery is just a swipe away,
thanks to social media – specifically, Instagram – which has turned
the casual scroll into a global exhibition space, enabling
emerging painters, sculptors and digital creators to bypass
traditional gatekeepers and connect directly
with collectors. By Harry Seymour
44
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
Now celebrated
worldwide,
Ghanaian painter
Amoako Boafo
was discovered
on Instagram
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46
I
n July 2019, the Pulitzer Prize-winning art critic Jerry Saltz uploaded nine screenshots
of paintings by a little-known artist called Anna Weyant to his Instagram feed. For Saltz
– and his hundreds of thousands of followers – this was an everyday occurrence. But
for Weyant, who had only graduated from the Rhode Island School of Design two years prior,
it initiated a fairy-tale ascent to the top of the art world.
Weyant’s first solo gallery show opened two months later. Prices for her pictures, which
riff on Dutch Old Masters, started at $2,000. Everything sold out. By May 2022, aged just
27, she had become the youngest artist represented by Larry Gagosian – considered the
most powerful art dealer in the world. More was to follow: a spot on Forbes’s “30 Under 30”
list; a Vogue cover commission from Marc Jacobs; a monographic exhibition at the Thyssen-
Bornemisza National Museum in Madrid; and seven-figure prices in the coveted evening
sales of Sotheby’s and Christie’s. As Artnet observed, it was “one of the most remarkable
trajectories of the present era”.
From left: Green Handbag (2021), a finger-painted work by Amoako Boafo; British painter Flora Yukhnovich –
discovered by a London gallerist via Instagram – poses in front of one of her ornate, Rococo-inspired works
FROM LEFT: © 2024 AMOAKO BOAFO / LICENSED BY BILDRECHT, VIENNA, PHOTO: ROBERTS PROJECTS; © FLORA YUKHNOVICH,
COURTESY THE ARTIST, HAUSER & WIRTH AND VICTORIA MIRO, PHOTO: KASIA BOBULA; PREVIOUS PAGE: NOLIS ANDERSON, COURTESY MARIANE IBRAHIM
Right: Wit of the Staircase (2020), an oil-oncanvas
work by Canadian artist Anna Weyant
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
© ANNA WEYANT
Weyant’s story highlights how social
media has drastically changed the
dynamic between patron and maker. Since
Instagram’s arrival in 2010, it has given
collectors, gallerists, dealers, curators and
advisers direct, instant access to artists
across the globe, all from a device that fits
neatly in their pockets. It’s also afforded
artists a unique platform to market their
work to more than two billion active monthly
users. As a result, Weyant’s path has become
a blueprint.
For example, a year after completing her
MA at London’s City & Guilds Art School
in 2017, Flora Yukhnovich secured a deal
with Parafin gallery, which at the time
specialised in emerging artists (it has since
closed), after its owner spotted her work
on Instagram. Fast forward to 2022, and
one of her paintings was offered at auction
with a high estimate of £200,000. It went
for £2.7 million.
Similarly, in 2018, Amoako Boafo, the
Ghanaian portraitist best known for using
his fingertips to render the skin of his sitters
onto canvas, got his big break when fellow
painter Kehinde Wiley – who had just been
commissioned to paint an official portrait of
Barack Obama – saw his work on Instagram.
In 2021, three of Boafo’s works were blasted
into space by Jeff Bezos.
But the most audacious tale of an artist
utilising Instagram comes from the graphic
designer Mike Winkelmann, aka “Beeple”.
Each day, for 13 years, he created a digital
artwork, and began uploading them to
his account, gaining millions of followers
in the process. In 2021, he capitalised
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48
on the momentum, auctioning the first
5,000 images stitched together as an NFT.
Bidding climbed from $100 to a staggering
$69.3 million.
“For visual artists, Instagram has played
the same role that YouTube did a decade
ago for musicians,” the Swiss auctioneer
Simon de Pury told GQ in 2023. “Today, the
majority of emerging artists who are being
taken on by the leading contemporary art
galleries have been ‘discovered’ by them on
the platform.”
“Instagram gives you the chance to
control your own path,” says Florian Markus,
an artist and architect from the Netherlands
who uses computers to create his paintings,
which are available to buy through his
website. “I love running my own online
gallery. I’ve had quite a few dealers reach
out, but I’m happy selling my work directly
because this way I keep control over the
entire experience. The amazing thing about
social media is that it allows you to grow
quickly and connect with your audience on
a global scale.”
“All of my initial sales were through
someone finding me on Instagram,” agrees
Lucienne O’Mara, who finished her MA at
City & Guilds in 2019 and started off selling
her bold, abstract paintings directly from
her studio. “My strategy was to make my
page a place where someone could go and
see what I think are the most important
pieces I’ve made, along with my everyday
studio life, which gives a fuller picture
of who I am as an artist and is helpful for
someone thinking of investing in me.”
Yet despite this, many artists who have
reached the upper echelons of the market
are reluctant – or even prohibited by their
galleries – from talking about the initial
boost they got from social media. And the
status quo means that most emerging artists
would rather sign with a gallery, which can
network with established collectors, mount
exhibitions, publish scholarship, provide
Rising figurative painter
Lindsey Jean McLean in
her London studio
Who to Follow, What to Know
Leading voices in art in the social-media era
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
For insider tips on emerging artists to discover on Instagram, listen to Russell Tovey
(@russelltovey) and Robert Diament’s Talk Art podcast (@talkart), or follow Jennifer Higgie
(@jennifer_higgie), a London-based Australian arts writer whose own Bow Down podcast,
about women in art history, is worth a listen. More names to know include art collectors
Christian Levett (@christian_levett) and Karen Robinovitz (@karenrobinovitz); curator Eva
Respini (@curator_on_the_run); critic Roberta Smith (@robertasmithnyc); the magazines
Artforum (@artforum) and Frieze (@friezeofficial); and art schools, including London’s Royal
College of Art (@royalcollegeofart) and New York’s Parsons School of Design
(@parsonsschoolofdesign).
FROM LEFT: COURTESY LINDSEY JEAN MCLEAN, COURTESY FLORIAN MARKUS (2)
Above: Haarlem-based Florian Markus experiments with digital-fabrication techniques in his colourful works
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“ Instagram became the place where people
approach artists. It’s easy to stay connected.”
access to museums and handle PR, sales and logistics – albeit for exclusivity and a cut of
sales of around 50 per cent.
Galleries can also offer important protection from “flippers” – speculators who rapidly
buy, then sell young artists’ work when demand outstrips supply in a bid to make quick
profits, often causing a bubble. O’Mara also points out that social media can’t replace the
importance of taking part in shows. “It just makes what you’re doing far more accessible and
easy to share, like LinkedIn for the arts,” she says. Last year, O’Mara signed with Nino Mier in
New York and Brussels, freeing up her time to concentrate on painting. “Most artists would
rather be in the studio than organising sales, so to be able to separate yourself from that
gives you more space and time to work.”
50
Lucienne O’Mara found early visibility on Instagram with her signature grid-based abstract paintings
COURTESY LUCIENNE O’MARA
A COLLECTION OF PRIME LONDON RIVERSIDE RESIDENCES.
LAUNCHING 30 OCTOBER. VIEWINGS BY APPOINTMENT.
PRICES FROM £750,000 TO £7,000,000
PRICES CORRECT AS OF DATE OF PRINT
THECAPSTON.COM | +44 (0)20 399 6024
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Echoing the idea that Instagram is a great tool for making initial sales, but also a means
to securing representation, is the figurative painter Lindsey Jean McLean, who finished
her MFA in painting at London’s Slade School of Fine Art in 2021. “Instagram became the
place where people approach artists. It’s easy to stay connected,” she says, adding that
her one rule is to “keep prices consistent”.
Is McLean ultimately hoping to sign with a gallery? “It’s always exciting being
approached by a gallery to build a show. I prefer to sell through them because logistics
is hard work, and it’s great to work together,” she responds. And what’s been the most
exciting notification she has ever received on the app? “When Jerry Saltz befriended me.
Fingers crossed, he will post my work.”
Lucienne O’Mara poses
alongside her expressive
oil works
52
COURTESY LUCIENNE O’MARA
ARTISTRY IN OAK
GORDON & MACPHAIL 85 YEARS OLD
FROM GLENLIVET DISTILLERY
CREATED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH JEANNE GANG
PLEASE ENJOY OUR SPIRITS RESPONSIBLY
THE OLDEST SINGLE MALT
SCOTCH WHISKY IN THE WORLD
REGISTER YOUR INTEREST AT GORDONANDMACPHAIL.COM
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TURN,
TURN, TURN
Copper-tinged vistas from Kyhv Peak Road in Provo Canyon, Utah
Autumn in the American West reveals a more untamed elegance than its
eastern counterpart. The aspens ignite in molten gold, the canyons deepen
into bronze and the peaks catch silver light at dusk. Our photographer
journeyed across ridges and valleys to frame this fleeting,
transcendent spectacle of the season
54
Photography by Dustin LeFevre
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
55
The aspens of the 43ha Pando Forest in Fishlake, Utah, are all genetic clones of one another
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56
A clutch of cottonwoods at the scenic base of South Caineville Mesa, just off Utah State Route 24
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
57
A lone cottonwood rises from the floor of Utah’s Spring Creek Canyon
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“The aspens of autumn,
Like yellow hair of a tigress
brindled with pines”
—DH Lawrence, “Autumn at Taos”
58
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
In Utah’s American Fork Canyon, Forest Lake mirrors an eye-popping stand of aspen trees
59
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61
Autumn sunlight filters through a Japanese maple at Portland Japanese Garden, Oregon
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“The thinnest yellow light of
November is more warming and exhilarating
than any wine they tell of”
– Henry David Thoreau, “Autumn”
Wending its way across East Canyon, Utah, a lonely road cuts through a vast swathe of Rocky Mountain maples in every colour
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EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
63
Maples and scrub oaks cascade down Bridal Veil Falls, Utah
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64
FLIGHT CHECK
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
GOING
THE
DISTANCE
With radical innovations,
including fly-by-wire
technology, a spacious
interior with five-star
flourishes and a range
that connects US cities
on either coast, NetJets’
new Embraer Praetor
500 offers comfort and
capability in equal measure.
By Michael Verdon
GREG BRAVE/SHUTTERSTOCK
L
ooking at the numbers, it’s easy to see why the
Praetor 500 has positioned itself as the disruptor
of the midsize category. When Embraer announced
the aircraft in 2019, it was clearly more than an
upgrade from the Legacy 450 it was replacing. The
Honeywell HTF7500E turbofan engines delivered
impressive performance across the board, including
a 3,340-nautical-mile range that gives it nonstop
potential from major cities, say from New York or
Washington, DC to San Jose, California. The other jets
in NetJets’ midsize category, the Citation Latitude,
Sovereign or XLS, would require fuel stops for coastto-coast
trips, or if fractional Owners of those jets
wanted to fly nonstop, they’d have to request an
upgrade to a super-midsize like the Citation Longitude.
The Praetor 500’s seven-hour-and-forty-five-minute
maximum endurance and some 870kph top cruise also
gave it a performance edge.
The numbers explain why NetJets contracted to buy
up to 250 Praetor 500s, and why, with five currently
in the fleet, more than a dozen new deliveries are
expected by the end of the year. Performance is only
part of the Praetor 500 story. Speed and range are
its obvious selling points, but other statistics are
65
THE QUARTER SHARE BY NETJETS
equally important, such as the cabin’s dimensions. Its
flat floor and ceiling deliver 1.8 metres of stand-up
headroom. With 10 large windows, a 6.2m length and
best-in-class 2m width, the interior feels unusually
spacious for a midsize jet.
Using this footprint, NetJets worked with Embraer
to enhance both the functionality and aesthetics. The
grey and burgundy livery stripes reflect the NetJets
fleet’s standard colours, but the Praetor 500 excels
with the hand-stitched custom leather seating – four
club seats, two forward-facing seats and a sidefacing
seat. (A separate seat is available with the aft
lavatory.) The other materials include hand-selected
natural Moabi-wood veneer, custom carpeting and
stone flooring in the lavatory. To differentiate its
500s from Embraer’s standard configuration, NetJets’
design team mandated a second cabinet that provides
additional storage.
The custom-designed refreshment centre, with its
Nespresso coffee maker and storage for speciality
beverages from the NetJets Reserve Collection,
enhances the dining experience. The HEPA filtration
refreshes cabin air every 30 seconds, while the
pressurisation system, equivalent to 1,463 metres
when cruising at some 12,500 metres, is the lowest
in the NetJets midsize fleet – about 800 metres
below Aspen. The cabin was also designed to minimise
external sounds to facilitate normal conversations.
All these features, representing more than the sum
of their parts, create an experience that is more like
flying in a super midsize aircraft.
The Praetor 500’s greatest differentiators
may be the tech that passengers never see. The
Honeywell HTF7500E turbofan engines, along with
the aerodynamic shape of the fuselage and winglets,
deliver the extended range, but also allow the 500 to
take off and land in remote airports with runways as
short as 1,220 metres, bringing Owners even closer to
their ultimate destination.
Below: the Praetor 500’s spacious
stand-up cabin; facing page: a closer
look at the aircraft’s sleek Moabi
veneer and crisp leather seating
66
THE DETAILS
7:45 HOURS
MAXIMUM ENDURANCE
6.2 METRES
CABIN LENGTH
2.1 METRES
CABIN WIDTH
4.1 CUBIC METRES
BAGGAGE CAPACITY, INCLUDING A 1-CUBIC METRE INTERNAL CLOSET
1.8 METRES
CABIN HEIGHT
7PASSENGERS 10
LARGE WINDOWS
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
© NETJETS
The Rockwell Collins Pro Line Fusion avionics suite
offers the pilots superior situational awareness with
its synthetic vision in what Embraer calls a “dark and
quiet” cockpit designed to limit visual and auditory
distractions. But its secret weapon is fly-by-wire
technology. The only midsize in NetJets’ fleet with
this advanced feature, the Praetor 500 has replaced
traditional mechanical controls handled by the pilot
with electronic controls. It not only lightens pilot
workload by automatically compensating for wind,
weather and lateral stability, monitoring systems and
conditions hundreds of times per second, but offers a
protective envelope that will not let the aircraft or pilot
enter a dangerous situation. The sidestick controls
work in tandem with the fly-by-wire, making flight more
intuitive, and far less fatiguing, for the pilot.
With its unmatched range, cabin innovation,
and advanced avionics, the Praetor 500 is reshaping
the midsize segment. It’s a disruptor in every sense
of the word.
67
True
Colours
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Rubies, diamonds and sapphires
come alive in the season’s
kaleidoscopic jewelry creations
68
Photography by Xavier Young ·· Styling by Elisa Vallata
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
Chopard titanium earrings set with sapphires,
tourmalines and diamonds David Morris
white-gold Mosaica necklace set with blue
sapphires and diamonds
Facing page: Glenn Spiro platinum earrings
set with yellow sapphires and diamonds
Taffin yellow-gold and diamond ring set with
one yellow sapphire and rubies on the reverse
side – both seen at Barron London, barronlondon.com
69
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Jessica McCormack
blackened-white and
yellow-gold Tapestry
Wide Chevron bracelet
set with emeralds,
diamonds and sapphires
Moussaieff white-gold
high jewellery earrings
set with emeralds,
Burmese sapphires
and diamonds
70
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
Mouawad white-gold Pure Glamour diamond and
rubellite necklace Graff white-gold high-jewellery
earrings set with Mozambique rubies and diamonds
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Moussaieff white-gold
high-jewellery necklace
with a detachable pendant,
set with diamonds and
pink, blue and purple
sapphires Cindy Chao
The Art Jewel titanium
and gold Castle ring
set with diamonds, purple
sapphires and
purple garnets
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EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
Andrew Grima vintage
yellow-gold necklace,
circa 1995, set with
multicoloured gemstones,
seen at Barron London,
barron-london.com
Production Notes This story’s model and muse did not have to shoulder the multikarat weight of these precious stones and metals. Instead,
each piece of jewellery was photographed separately, then digitally superimposed atop candid shots of the chameleon doing what he does
best: striking an elegant pose.
73
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CROWNING
ACHIEVEMENTS
74
Behind the gleaming dial of every fine watch is a story
of extreme engineering – calculating the cosmos, refining
tolerances and miniaturising complexity – proving that
true luxury is sometimes measured not just in beauty,
but in technological achievement. By Chris Hall
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
IF YOU WANT to know how much craft goes into the world’s
most exceptional watches, you might start by picturing a
Swiss master, bent to the task of polishing a timepiece’s
metal surfaces to mirror-like perfection with a splinter of
gentian stalks and a daub of diamond paste.
Today’s groundbreaking watches are all impeccably
finished because the alternative would be unthinkable but,
truth be told, horology’s finest achievements take place
far from the workbench. Really, these are masterpieces of
science and engineering; the meticulous hand-application
comes later. Take Vacheron Constantin’s Solaria Ultra
Grand Complication: a double-sided 45mm wristwatch
incorporating 41 complications (the name for any watch
feature that goes beyond telling the time) and 13 pioneering
inventions. It took eight years to develop and create. The
achievements that went into its making are many, but
beyond perfecting each one of its individual functions (just
one group of which includes tracking sunrise and sunset,
the angle of the sun above the horizon at its highest point,
Clockwise from far left: the intricate heart of Vacheron
Constantin’s Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, vacheronconstantin.com;
the Excalibur Grande Complication, Roger
Dubuis’s 45mm masterpiece, rogerdubuis.com; Rolex’s
groundbreaking new Land-Dweller in Everose gold with a
diamond-set bezel, rolex.com
75
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Above, from left: the 41mm Royal Oak Perpetual
Calendar by Audemars Piguet, audemarspiguet.
com; the rear dial of Vacheron Constantin’s
41-complication Solaria Ultra Grand Complication,
vacheron-constantin.com
76
the exact time at which the sun will reach this point and
the sun’s journey between solstices and equinoxes), the
most incredible thing has been getting them all to fit
into one watch, work together, and for the final product
to be operable by mere mortals. It’s a triumph of microengineering
– and problem-solving above all.
You could say similar things of the latest grand
complication from Roger Dubuis, the Excalibur Grande
Complication, which combines a minute repeater, perpetual
calendar and tourbillon with a typically exuberant dial
display, or Audemars Piguet’s new perpetual calendar,
which launched earlier this year as part of the brand’s
150th anniversary celebrations. Its singular achievement is
to sweep away the fussy, complicated adjustment buttons
that most perpetual calendars require – to cope with
mechanically understanding the lengths of months through
leap years, this most prestigious complication usually
comes with the trade-off of being extremely fiddly to set.
By contrast, Audemars Piguet’s latest can be operated by
even the laziest collector, with everything controlled by the
crown. That kind of user-friendliness is the result of huge
complexity within.
ALL IMAGES COURTESY THE WATCHMAKERS
Indeed, simple outcomes often belie complex processes.
The appeal of an ultra-thin watch is apparent at a glance;
rather than impressing with the sheer weight of watchmaking
prowess on show, its maker dazzles with how much they have
been able to take away. Bulgari has rather dominated the
pursuit of slimline horology over the past decade – albeit
not without strong competition from Piaget and Richard
Mille – and its latest, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon,
adds another world record to its already groaning trophy
cabinet. It is the thinnest tourbillon watch ever made, at
1.85 millimetres from top to bottom, a technical showcase
crafted from titanium and tungsten carbide – the latter
chosen for its extreme stiffness, a necessary quality in a
delicate movement that’s thinner than a coin.
Sometimes, however, peerless watchmaking can come in
a very normal-looking package. So it is with Grand Seiko’s
Spring Drive UFA SLGB001: it leaves arcane mechanics and
obscure celestial calculations aside to focus on simply
keeping time as well as a mechanical watch can. The result
is a movement that will only lose or gain 20 seconds a year:
for comparison, a standard mechanical chronometer –
something many brands are perfectly proud of making – is
allowed to lose four or gain six seconds per day.
At Rolex, the Land-Dweller is its answer to these kinds
of questions of everyday excellence: the first all-new
model for the brand to launch in over a decade came with
a multitude of patents and a total focus on establishing a
new baseline for performance and reliability. It may not set
records – indeed, being Rolex, some of its vital statistics
are still a secret – but with its innovative Dynapulse silicon
escapement, it forged ahead in one of the most challenging
areas of watchmaking. Word on the street at its launch
was that there were fewer than five people in the industry
capable of wrapping their brains around the mathematics
necessary to construct such a system. It may yet prove to
be one of the most significant watches of its generation –
and all it does is tell the time.
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
Far left and below: a Bulgari
horologist crafts the intricate
case of the Octo Finissimo Ultra
Tourbillon, bulgari.com; left:
Grand Seiko’s limited-edition
Spring Drive UFA SLGB001,
grand-seiko.com
77
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78
Illustrations by Jörn Kaspuhl
100
Reasons
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
Diagnosed with life-threatening lymphoma and heart failure
in her twenties, transplant recipient Dr Dawn Mussallem
faced extraordinary obstacles when aiming to achieve her
childhood dream of reaching triple digits. Decades later,
the marathon-running Mayo Clinic breast-cancer specialist
stands testament to the power of science, empathy and
human connection
As a child, Dr Dawn Mussallem took great
interest in something she saw on a popular
segment of the Today show: seeing people
who had reached the age of 100 featured
on a Smucker’s jam jar. She decided she, too, wanted to
have her face on a Smucker’s jar one day but, unlike many
youthful objectives, Dr Mussallem put plans in place
and stuck to her goal. As early as elementary school,
she adopted healthy habits to achieve her objective, like
exercising and eating well. Once she entered college, she
studied nutrition and exercise physiology, and continued
her focus on maintaining a healthy lifestyle.
During medical school, Dr Mussallem began
experiencing fatigue and shortness of breath. Initially
misdiagnosed with asthma (as well as having even been
told it was psychological), she collapsed one day after
class. Doctors discovered a 15cm tumour wrapped
around her heart, collapsing her left lung. The diagnosis:
stage 4 diffuse large B-cell non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma.
Without immediate treatment, she was given three
months to live. She was just 26 years old.
Dr Mussallem underwent surgery, joined a clinical
trial providing aggressive treatment, and received a bone
marrow transplant. Throughout it all, she maintained
a healthy lifestyle – hiking, eating a plant-based diet
and staying active, even riding a stationary bike in the
hospital at 4 am.
Against the odds, she survived, completed medical
school and began her career as a physician. She also
became a mother. But just three weeks after giving 79
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birth, she began experiencing heart failure – the aggressive
treatments that saved her life had weakened her heart.
Dr Mussallem lived with heart failure for 18 years, all while
raising a family and caring for patients at Mayo Clinic in
Florida as a lifestyle medicine and integrative breast cancer
specialist, equipping patients with scientific evidence of
how healthy habits can manage and even prevent breast
cancer. During that time, Dr Mussallem was treated with
medications and devices to keep her heart functioning, but
she continued to experience complications of heart failure,
including cardiac arrest. In late 2019, it became clear that
the only option left was a heart transplant, and so she was
placed on the transplant list.
She waited 14 months for a new heart before her
transplant surgery in February 2021.
“I named my heart,” says Dr Mussallem. “I named her
Grace. Sometimes, I’ll just put my hand over my heart. And
I will just thank her and thank the donor family because it’s
just amazing what they gave to me.”
The transplant was just the beginning of Dr Mussallem’s
path to renewed health. Recovery and rehabilitation were next.
Just two weeks later, she walked out of the hospital
unaided. Three months after surgery, she ran a 5K race. A
month later, she climbed Camelback Mountain in Arizona.
One year and one day post-transplant, she completed
the Donna Marathon, an annual breast-cancer research
fundraising event in Jacksonville, Florida.
Today, she continues to care for patients at Mayo Clinic
in Florida, and her unique background helps her connect
with patients in a special way.
“Going through what you go through, it really gives you
the ability to connect with people,” she says. “It’s such a
gift, that ability to connect and to be able to have a good
sense or intuition, if you may, of where they are at in their
cancer journey, and just to be able to be there with them
in that time of vulnerability. And so, it has given me the
“I named my heart Grace.
Sometimes, I’ll just put my
hand over my heart. And I will
just thank her and thank the
donor family because it’s just
amazing what they gave to me”
ability to have a good pulse on exactly where I need to be
with a patient.”
Dr Mussallem’s story is a testament to resilience, the
healing power of lifestyle medicine and the deep human
connection that defines compassionate care. She says
her story is not meant to push people to run marathons,
but rather to show that taking an active role in health and
healing through lifestyle choices does make a difference.
As for her childhood dream of living to 100 – sparked
by watching TV weatherman Willard Scott celebrate
centenarians on a jam jar on the Today show – she
is hovering around the halfway point with no signs of
slowing down.
Mayo Clinic & NetJets
80
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Beyond Piedmont’s forests and Provence’s fields,
autumn unveils truffle secrets in Europe’s
overlooked corners. From Greek peaks to England’s
chalky slopes, rural traditions return – and rare
delicacies follow. By Lucy Kehoe
82
WHAT LIES
BENEATH
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
83
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AUTUMN’S CHILL SETTLES INTO
THE FOREST, DAMP LEAVES CRACKLING
UNDERFOOT. THE SHARP SCENT OF
COOL EARTH FILLS THE AIR.
84
A
dog scrabbles through rustling leaves, and its
handler kneels, teasing back wet soil with a trowel
in search of one of nature’s most elusive treasures.
The air shifts as a musky, primal aroma breaches the soil,
and a knobbly orb emerges, dusted in earth. Most imagine
such moments in Piedmont or Périgord, Europe’s famed
truffle heartlands. But across the continent, a quiet – not
to say pungent – revolution is underway, with new truffle
territories being reclaimed and rediscovered as hunters
thread forgotten paths and forge fresh ones. In Transylvania’s
ancient woodlands, long-lost foraging trails wind beneath
towering beech and oak trees, and in England’s southern
chalk hills, a new cadre of hunters is reawakening the
country’s tradition of dog-led hunts, reading soil and scent
alike to unearth native riches. Croatia’s Istrian peninsula
has, meanwhile, recovered its truffle legacy, with the onceoverlooked
white truffle now commanding reverence equal
to Piedmont’s Alba finds.
Truffles, the subterranean fruiting bodies of fungi, thrive
only in symbiosis with tree roots. The black Périgord truffle
(Tuber melanosporum), white truffle (Tuber magnatum Pico)
and more common summer truffle (Tuber aestivum) are the
most well-known fragrant fungi, but each terroir imprints
its own signature, from earthy depth to ethereal perfume.
And as the truffle-hunting range widens, stretching from
Australia to the US, so the definitions of truffle prestige
are shifting, with summer truffles challenging their autumn
siblings, self-taught hunters switching traditional rivalries
for friendships and native varieties trumping imported
truffles in the kitchens of young chefs seeking hyper-local
ingredients that celebrate the landscapes they live in.
In northern Greece’s craggy Pindus mountains, the truffle
story stretches beyond the autumn. Here, the once-mystical
allure of the truffle that had Greek philosopher Plutarch
marvelling at its strange occurrence and frequent Hellenic
traveller Lord Byron keeping a fragrant, warty fungus on
his desk, has returned. Tucked between flat-topped rock
formations, the mountain town of Metsovo is distinctly
Balkan, with Greek woven into Vlach, a local language, and
hunters borrowing techniques from their Balkan neighbours
in a recent quest to rediscover the region’s truffle treasures.
The surrounding black-pine forests harbour four native
truffle varieties, but the highlight of the foraging season
comes – unusually – between mid-May and August, when the
nutty, somewhat sweet black summer truffle that thrives in
the area’s generous climate, arrives.
Twenty years ago, locals banded together as the Troufa
Club, determined to reclaim the silent surrounding woodlands
and rediscover its hidden culinary delights. Nowadays, even
traditional grilled meats at tavernas like Galaxias (hotelgalaxias-metsovo.gr),
one of the oldest in town, arrive scented
with a delicate, distinctive hint of truffle – a silent nod to the
fungi’s newfound place in the region’s culinary tapestry.
Dusk brings a different rhythm to the Motovun forest in
Croatia, where truffle hunting takes a more rivalrous path.
Come nightfall on the Istrian peninsula, hunters prowl
beneath pine and oak trees, making the most of the moist
night air, which carries the heady truffle scents more vividly,
and the darkness, which helps them avoid being followed to
tried-and-tested truffle grounds.
The creamy, pearl-white Tuber magnatum Pico – identical
to Piedmont’s Alba truffles – are prized here. For decades,
fungi dug on the peninsula were sold as Italian; today, local
hunters and chefs are reclaiming their culinary heritage with
pride, their family foraging traditions revived.
The region’s truffle lore is as rich as the fungi themselves:
in 1999, Giancarlo Zigante and his pointer dog, Diana,
unearthed a 1.3kg white truffle – at the time, the largest
ever discovered. Rather than sell it, Zigante threw a truffleinfused
feast that placed Croatia’s off-the-radar bounty
Truffle-sniffing dogs lead
an excursion with Grand
Forest Metsovo resort
among the dense forests
of Epirus, Greece
EVOLUTION ISSUE – 2025
CHRISTOS DRAZOS; PREVIOUS SPREAD: ULRIKE SCHMID / IMAGE PROFESSIONALS
85
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86
firmly on the gastronomic map. Today, Croatian kitchens
keep it simple: truffle shavings dress scrambled eggs,
dust buttery fuži pasta and elevate a steak with subtle
extravagance. Chef Jeffrey Vella, of the one-Michelin-star
Cap Aureo Signature Restaurant (maistra.com), infuses
béarnaise with local truffles, ready to cloak a butterroasted
beef tenderloin, while local farm-to-table pioneer
Pavo Klarić at Luciano (san-canzian.com) reimagines
Croatian classics with the fungi’s unmistakable funk.
Across Europe, in England’s pastoral southern counties,
truffle hunting whispers a quieter tale. Where other
countries have a history of using pigs to root out truffles,
the English have always preferred dogs. In the counties of
Hampshire, Wiltshire, Dorset and Somerset, truffle-crazed
woodmen, gamekeepers and labourers rivalled France’s
truffières right up until the early 20th century. The practice
faded after World War I, when a generation’s foraging
knowledge withered in the trenches, but the last-known prerevival
hunter, Alfred Collins of Wiltshire, was inseparable
from Major, his truffle-sniffing terrier-poodle companion.
Now a resurgence is underway, sparked by renewed
culinary curiosity and a surprising side effect of newfangled
woodland stewardship. Mixed-species forests and
restored hedgerows nurture native summer truffles and
richer, headier Burgundy truffles from August through
to December. Smaller and subtler than their continental
cousins, English truffles also have an unusual habit of
growing close to the surface, sometimes breaking the soil,
allowing for rare, spontaneous finds without canine help.
Unlike in England, where truffle traditions quietly
persisted, Transylvania’s truffle hunting was all but
extinguished until its recent renaissance. Globalisation’s
march had left truffle hunting in the dust after the collapse
of the USSR, when imported food flooded the country and
hard-learned foraging lessons were shelved. Now, inspired
by the hyper-local New Nordic movement and the rise of
seasonal, identity-driven cooking, Romania is rekindling
its truffle heritage. Chefs – many of them returning from
kitchens in London, Paris and New York – are reviving old
Romanian recipes while embracing native ingredients.
These days, Transylvanian truffles appear alongside
Saxon plums, nettles and ramson (wild garlic) on nostalgiatinged
menus across the country. In Braşov, the region’s
capital, chef Oana Coantă serves delicately fragrant truffle
pasta at her old-school Bistro de l’Arte (bistrodelarte.ro),
while in Bucharest, the stylised “new Romanian” cuisine of
Kané restaurant (kanerestaurant.ro) has featured unique
dishes like tender celeriac slivers dressed with a seductive
truffle reduction in a sparkling wine sauce.
And so, deep in the sun-dappled beech woodlands of
Transylvania, hunters once again move quietly through the
trees – waiting, patiently, for their dogs to catch the elusive
scent that signals the landscape’s hidden, treasured bounty.
From top: inside the hyper-locavore Cap Aureo, chef Jeffrey
Vella’s panoramic eatery in coastal Rovinj; white truffle
shaved tableside over a steaming plate of risotto
FROM TOP: © MAISTRA, LUCRECIA QUESADA/STILLS.COM
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HUNTING GROUNDS
Some of Europe’s
finest country
hotels also
offer visitors the
chance to forage
for and feast on
truffles. Here
are a few of the
best root-to-table
adventures.
1
2
3
4
88
1
THE PIG-IN THE SOUTH
DOWNS, ENGLAND
Set amid rolling chalk
hills, this kitchen-garden
hotel offers guided
autumn truffle foraging
in the surrounding woods,
rounded off with a threecourse
lunch inspired
by fresh forest pickings.
thepighotel.com
2
MENEGHETTI WINE HOTEL
& WINERY, CROATIA
Encircled by vineyards
and olive groves, this
elegant estate offers
curated truffle hunting
with experienced hunters
and dogs, alongside
a world-class wine
and culinary offering.
meneghetti.hr
3
BETHLEN ESTATES,
ROMANIA
At this meticulously
restored estate, guests
staying in one of three
300-year-old Transylvanian
residences can take
advantage of private
autumn truffle hunts
with expert foragers,
exploring the wild beauty
of the surrounding forests.
bethlenestates.com
4
GRAND FOREST
METSOVO, GREECE
Here, year-round truffle
hunts in secret locations
end with an alfresco
tasting beside a river at
this luxurious mountain
retreat in northern Greece.
grand-forest.gr
FROM LEFT: JAKE EASTHAM, MATEJ PALUH, PHILIP VILE, CHRISTOS DRAZOS; MAP: GETTY IMAGES
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ART OF THE SEASON
Narokan, 1965,
by Tom Lloyd
TOM LLOYD, NAROKAN, 1965. ALUMINUM, LIGHT BULBS AND PLASTIC LAMINATE, 11 1/2 × 18 1/2 × 5 IN. STUDIO MUSEUM IN HARLEM;
GIFT OF MR. AND MRS. DARWIN K. DAVIDSON 1988.3. PHOTO: JOHN BERENS
90
“Light is part of our everyday lives. We communicate by light. We can’t help but notice TV, lighting in general – Broadway,
traffic lights, car headlights,” said late sculptor and community activist Tom Lloyd, whose fascination with the everpresent
flashing lights of his native New York City formed the basis of his exhibition Electronic Refractions II. Hailed as
both an artistic and technological triumph, the 1968 show inaugurated the Studio Museum in Harlem, which aimed then,
as it does now, to showcase works by African American artists and Black culture. Shuttered for renovations in 2018, the
original structure has now been replaced by an evocative glass and concrete building at its original location on Harlem’s
144 West 125th Street. The November 2025 ribbon-cutting will celebrate the vaunted institution’s evolution with –
fittingly – a sweeping retrospective of Lloyd’s works, including Narokan. studiomuseum.org
A WORLD AWAY,
WITHIN REACH.
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