British Travel Journal

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STORIES TO INSPIRE THE BRITISH ISLES

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WILD LUXURY | COSY COTTAGES | HARVEST FEASTS | ROOMS WITH VIEWS

WELCOME

As the days gracefully shorten and a crispness settles in the air, our

thoughts invariably turn to the pleasures of the table and the warmth

of a fine vintage. Indeed, as the cosy evenings in front of the fire and

festive season approaches, who among us wouldn’t relish a prelude of

exquisite tastes and convivial sips?

Perfect timing, then, for an exploration of unique harvest experiences

across the British Isles (p60). In fact, this edition of British Travel Journal has

been meticulously curated for the discerning palate, inviting you to embark on

a culinary odyssey through Britain’s most compelling gastronomic landscapes.

From the refined plates of North Cornwall (p80) and the flourishing natural wine

scene in Devon (p68), to the UK’s first B Corp-certified independent hotel by the

Thames (p44), and even a luxurious trip on the iconic British Pullman (p26), we

celebrate the visionaries shaping the future of British epicurean excellence.

Beyond the plate, our exploration extends to Northumberland’s historic castle

landscapes (p34), unique hideaways ranging from island retreats to Romanesque

follies (p72), and Britain’s most breathtaking bedroom views (p54). For those

seeking a deeper connection with nature, discover the restorative power of a Lake

District stay, blending invigorating lakeside hikes with the exhilaration of the

fellside sauna and cold water dips off the jetty.(p40).

As the season progresses, we’ve thoughtfully curated the UK’s cosiest

cottages, perfect for seasonal adventures and evenings spent by a crackling fire

(p92). Finally, don’t miss your chance to win a countryside escape to The Tempus

in Northumberland (p24), a truly bold and beautiful boutique hotel.

As the cooler months unfurl, we trust this edition of British Travel Journal will

ignite your imagination and guide your exploration of our enchanting British Isles.

Jessica

Jessica Way, Editor-in-Chief

Cover Image: Taymouth Marina, fresh from its

feature in our last issue of British Travel Journal, has

launched the UK’s first cruising sauna on Loch Tay

© Phil Wilkinson; taymouthmarina.com.

Contributions: Amy Bonifas, Sophie Farrah,

Emma Henderson, Jane Knight, Daisy May,

Rebecca Pitcairn, Jessica Way

Published by: Contista Media; contistamedia.co.uk

@BritishTravelJournal

@BritishTravelJournal

BritishTravelJournal.com 3

PAWS IN PARADISE THIS OCTOBER

Discover dog-friendly stays on the Isles of Scilly

Explore Tresco and the Isles of Scilly archipelago this autumn, where island

adventures await you and your four-legged friend. Roam coastal trails, play

on deserted sandy beaches, and relax in a cosy cottage after a day outdoors.

Even better, this October, dogs fly free with Penzance Helicopters.

TRESCO.CO.UK/DOGS

Tresco: 28 miles off the Cornish coast. Somewhere else altogether.

34

40

CONTENTS

AUTUMN/WINTER 2025 | ISSUE 22

09

Travel news, autumn/winter

From Edinburgh’s latest hotel hotspot and

a subterranean Oxford stay, to a whisky distillery’s

new digs and unique self-catering havens, we bring

you the freshest travel news.

24

Win a magical escape to

Northumberland

Win an unforgettable stay at The Tempus, a bold and

beautiful boutique hotel in Northumberland, where

you can lose all sense of time amidst vibrant and

eccentric interiors.

26

Spotlight on the British

Pullman: a Belmond train

Embark on a nostalgic journey aboard the

British Pullman, a luxury train evoking 1920s

glamour, and discover the thrill of rail travel on an

unforgettable day trip to Blenheim Palace.

34

I capture the castle

Northumberland is home to more castles

than any other English county. Jane Knight explores

these magnificent strongholds, staying at the new

Bailiffgate Hotel, perfectly placed for Alnwick Castle.

40

Another Place, another

adventure

From a purposeful hotel stay at The Brackenrigg Inn

– part of Another Place – in the Lake District, from

adventurous lakeside hikes to invigorating cold dips,

discover a truly restorative escape.

44

Checking in at the holistic hotel

British Travel Journal visits the UK’s first

B Corp-certified independent hotel, Bingham

Riverhouse in London, discovering how luxury,

sustainability, and wellness flow effortlessly together

by the Thames.

50

Finding new flavours in the

Cotswolds

Discover a slice of Cotswold paradise, from hidden

villages and honey-hued cottages to delightful

farm shops and charming country pubs.

54

A room with a view

From tranquil treehouses and ancient

castles to soaring city skylines and wild encounters,

discover ten beautiful bedrooms across Britain,

chosen for their unforgettable views alone.


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Copyright is either owned by or licenced to Contista Media Ltd, or permitted by the original copyright holder.

Reproduction in whole or part is not permitted without prior permission. While every care is taken prices and details are

subject to change and Contista Media Ltd take no responsibility for omissions or errors. Views expressed by authors are

not necessarily those of the publisher. Contista Media Ltd, Snows Stadium, Salisbury Road, SO40 2RW

60

It’s harvest time

From a Beaujolais Nouveau-style

experience in Devon to a truffle and bubbles tasting

in Surrey, discover unique harvest experiences

across the British Isles.

68

Natural wonders

From the glorious banks of the River Dart,

to the heart of its vineyards, British Travel Journal

discovers the booming natural wine world and how

Sandridge Barton is leading the way.

72

Great British landmarks

From exploring island hideaways

and romantic castles, to railway history and

Romanesque follies, discover a collection of

Britain’s most unique holiday homes.

80

Coastal cravings

From Michelin-starred seafood to

legendary cinnamon buns, and from luxurious

coastal boltholes to the best extra bites, discover

how North Cornwall’s thriving food scene is

redefining coastal cuisine.

92 Cottagecore

As the nights draw in, discover some of the

UK’s cosiest cottages, perfectly primed for seasonal

adventures and snug evenings by the fire.

98

Clues & reviews

Wherever your autumn and winter travels

take you, make sure you while away cosy hours with our

latest style gift recommendations, from vintage-inspired

carry-ons to instant cameras, and challenge your mind

with our British Travel Journal inspired crossword.

6 BritishTravelJournal.com

Find your special place

From luxury contemporary barn conversions to charming

thatched cottages, we’ve hand-picked the very best to bring

you holiday memories to treasure.

The Hop Kiln and The Hayloft, Herefordshire

A portfolio of

over 800 luxury

self-catering

holiday properties

across the UK

01386 897 959

ruralretreats.co.uk

CHANNEL ISLANDS

Pure Adventure

Pure Escapism


TRAVEL NEWS

autumn/winter

It’s harvest time, and we bring you the latest crop of places to stay, from a hotel

by a whisky distillery to a folly at Royal Sandringham and a rural lochside croft

Text by Jane Knight

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHT

HOTELS

SELF-CATERING

EVENTS & EXPERIENCES

WELLNESS

from page 10 from page 14

from page 18 from page 22

Pictured anticlockwise from top: The Fortingall, Perthshire; The Hoxton, Edinburgh; Abelwood Lodge, Devon; Station Hall Railway

Museum, York; Skate by the Lake at Another Place, Cumbria


HOTELS

EDINBURGH

The Hoxton

Making its Scottish debut, the Hoxton has

opened an Edinburgh outpost near Haymarket

station, a short walk from the castle and the

Royal Mile. Unusually, its 214 contemporarychic

rooms are in townhouses on both sides

of Grosvenor Street. With a teal and ochre

reception and Italian restaurant, the hotel also

has three-bedroom apartments for longer stays.

Doubles from £150, room only;

thehoxton.com

THE COTSWOLDS

House of George W. Davies

First, he transformed retail; now he aims to do

the same for hospitality. George Davies, the

man behind Next, George at Asda and Marks &

Spencer’s Per Una, this month opens a ten-bedroom

hotel on Broadway’s high street. Set in a 17thcentury

building, it combines charm with modern

luxury. The fine-dining restaurant showcases local

British cuisine with a Nordic twist.

Rooms from £275, with breakfast; houseofgeorge.uk

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

Burnham Beeches

If you’re looking for a decent-priced hotel stay

that’s close to London, consider this Georgian

manor house, fresh from a multi-million-pound

refurbishment. Some of its slick, modern rooms cater

to families or dog owners (four-legged guests are

welcome throughout much of the hotel). There’s also

a spa with pool, hot tub and sauna, and a brasserie.

Rooms from £134, with breakfast;

burnhambeecheshotel.com


ISLAY

HOTELS

Ardbeg House

Whisky lovers rejoice – Ardbeg, known for its peaty Islay malt and part of LVMH,

opens its hotel in September following a multi-million-pound revamp of the former

Islay Hotel. It’s celebrating with two new exclusive whiskies. Expect quirky, outré

designs in the 12 bedrooms, bar and restaurant, with nods to Islay and Ardbeg.

Rooms from £230, with breakfast and distillery tour; ardbeghouse.com

PERTHSHIRE

The Fortingall

You’ll need deep pockets to stay at

this ten-bedroom boutique retreat in

Scotland. Not because the rooms are

overly expensive, but because should

you like anything from a vase or a

lamp to the beds and baths within the

rather swish interiors, you can buy

it. The hotel is the first venture from

luxury interiors company Anboise.

Outside, the wild beauty of the

Highlands awaits, with walks and

outdoors activities on offer in scenic

Glen Lyone.

Rooms from £270, with

breakfast; fortingall.com

CAMBRIDGE

Wilde

Its namesake, Oscar Wilde, may have studied

in Oxford, but the aparthotel brand has

opened its latest property in rival university city,

Cambridge. A short distance from Jesus Green,

it makes a great base from which to explore the

historic city. It has a fitness room, all-day café

and on-site shop, local art on the walls, and

rooms in muted greens and pinks.

Studios from £194, room only;

wilde.com


HOTELS

YORKSHIRE

Rudby Hall

Perfectly placed to explore the North York Moors

National Park, this 19th-century home built for

William IV’s daughter, Lady Amelia Cory, has

re-opened as a boutique hotel under new owners

Mark Booth and Suze Chomo. It has 13 rooms,

an impressive library with wood-carved fireplace

and two cottages in the ten-acre grounds.

Doubles from £160, with breakfast;

rudbyhall.com

LONDON

The Other House,

Covent Garden

With a rooftop bar offering panoramic

views of the London skyline, The Other

House Covent Garden is due to open later

this year. Combining the comfort of a

hotel with the freedom of apartment-style

living, it will span seven historic buildings,

including a former rectory. A striking inner

glazed atrium will link the buildings, which

will also house a gym, wellness centre,

restaurant and lounges.

Apartments from £350, room only;

otherhouse.com

ONE TO

watch

OXFORD

The Netty

For a truly unique stay, this subterranean hotel, built from a Victorian public toilet,

has launched newly refurbished suites with glamorous interiors inspired by the

city’s history. Guests can enjoy premium toiletries, a hand-picked minibar, and a

welcome cocktail. Located moments from Oxford’s historic colleges.

Doubles from £170, room only; thenetty.co.uk


VAZON BAY, GUERNSEY

SELF-CATERING

NORFOLK

Stay at Sandringham

You don’t need to worry about the quality of

your neighbours when staying on the 20,000

Sandringham Estate, much beloved by the

Royal Family. Newly opened to overnight guests

is the Folly, a beautifully restored, turreted

retreat that was originally used by ladies to take

tea. Expect stone hearths, arched doorways

and hand-finished floors plus three bedrooms.

A week for six from £4,200;

oliverstravels.com

CORNWALL

Great for Groups

This one’s got all the elements for a great group gettogether:

private access to nearby Watergate Bay; hot

tub with sea views; fire pit; a games room and a yoga

studio. Watergate House, which sleeps up to 12 in five

bedrooms – one of which is a family room – with five

en-suites, is also dog friendly. It’s bang on the South

West Coast Path.

A night for 12 from £351;

luxurycottages.com

SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS

Lochside Living

You’ll get fantastic views of Loch Ewe from the

living room with its open fire, the kitchen and the

two bedrooms at this architecturally designed

house which blends into the Highland landscape.

Adults-only Lewie’s Croft comes with a private

sauna to wallow in or a TV room for relaxing

after exploring the area’s hiking and biking trails

and hidden beaches.

A night for four from £350;

coolstays.com


SELF-CATERING

CHESHIRE

Bolesworth Bothy

If you fancy hiking all or part of Cheshire’s 34-mile Sandstone Trail, this little

bothy makes a great place to hole up while you do so. Once a basic overnight stop

for walkers, it’s now been transformed into a dog-friendly bolthole for two with

modern comforts. It’s also just a five-minute drive from the Bolesworth Estate.

Three-night weekend from £635 for two; bolesworth.com

PORT ISAAC

Coastal Cornwall

Fans of Doc Martin planning to visit

Port Isaac on the North Cornish

coast (where the series was filmed)

might want to take a look at this

refurbished cottage for four.

With light, bright interiors and an

open-plan living area, Shrimps is

conveniently placed a short stroll

from the harbour, with its cafes,

galleries and restaurants, including

Nathan Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen. There

are also dramatic cliffside walks on

the South West Coast Path.

Two nights for four from £578;

latitude50.co.uk

NORTHUMBERLAND

Craster Cottage

Famed for its kippers and other smoked fish,

Craster is also the gateway to the ruins of

Dunstanburgh Castle, which is reached via a

scenic 30-minute hike from the village. New to

the rental market is the contemporary Water’s

Edge, with four bedrooms sleeping eight

people and an open-plan living space with

folding doors opening onto a lovely sea view.

Seven nights for eight from £1,785;

crabtreeandcrabtree.com


SELF-CATERING

LONDON

Notting Hill Dream

Stay above the newly opened Permit Room,

a Bombay-inspired bar and restaurant

with wooden floor and ceiling fans on the

Portobello Road. The apartment has a

seventies feel, with teak furniture in the living

room and a complimentary cocktail cabinet

(guests can also ring down for chai). The two

bedrooms have king-sized beds.

From £700 a night for four, with breakfast;

permitroom.co.uk

DEVON

Enjoy a Nature Stay

Get back into nature at Abelwood

Lodge, set in a Devonshire forest by the

lake, with miles of cycling and walking

trails. Sleeping six in three bedrooms,

the wooden cabin has bi-fold doors so

you can flow out of the open-plan living

area onto the deck. Return from a day

at the beach or a meal at Woolsery’s

Farmers Arms to toast marshmallows

round the firepit or to soak in the bath

with forest views.

Seven nights for six from £768;

classic.co.uk

EAST SUSSEX

Cinema at Camber Sands

You can pre-order a movie pack, including a projector and popcorn and watch your

favourite film on the exterior wall of Mandalay at Camber Sands. The three-bedroom

house has two inner courtyards with seating, a chair hammock and BBQ as well as a

large kitchen/sitting area. Better still, one of Britain’s best beaches is on the doorstep.

Two nights for six from £780; camberholidaycottages.co.uk


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AN EXPERIENCE TO REMEMBER


SHROPSHIRE

Autumn getaway

Woodland trails for leaf peeping from the door,

Ludlow Brewery within tottering distance, and

seasonal dinners… four-bedroom Salwey Lodge

was made for autumn. It’s put together a special

break, with optional extras including a foraged

wreath-making workshop, venison supper with a

local charcutier, and a bat and moth safari.

Two nights’ half board with afternoon

tea and brewery tour from £299pp;

thesalweylodge.co.uk.com

HAMPSHIRE

Behind the Scenes at

Downton Abbey

If you’ve followed the saga of the Earl

and Countess of Grantham, head to

Highclere on September 13 to celebrate

the release of the final Downton Abbey

film, which was set at the castle. The

evening event includes a Highclere

gin cocktail, swing music, and time

to explore some of the 300 rooms.

Highclere is also hosting A Weekend to

Remember festival on September 6-7,

celebrating the end of World War II.

Evening event £155, festival entry from

£30; highclerecastle.co.uk


LONDON

Leighton House: 100 Years Young

The opulent former home and studio of Victorian artist Frederic, Lord Leighton,

celebrates its centenary as a public museum this autumn with a special programme.

Delve into the museum’s transformation over the last century, explore recreated

‘lost’ objects, and discover contemporary art from the Middle East and North Africa.

Included with admission ticket, prices from £9; rbkc.gov.uk/museums.uk

TRAVEL NEWS IMAGES © DOWNTON ABBEY THE GRAND FINALE / RORY MULVEY / 2025 FOCUS FEATURES LLC / DREW FORSYTH / STEVEN BARBER / ENNIS CREATIVE / J.M.W. TURNER SELF PORTRAIT / TATE / JMW TURNER THE PASSAGE OF MOUNT

ST GOTHARD FROM THE CENTRE OF TEUFELS BROCH (DEVIL’S BRIDGE) / ABBOT HALL KENDAL (LAKELAND ARTS TRUST) / DEAN ALLAN / MATT ROCK PHOTOGRAPHY / SHUTTERSTOCK / VISIT LAKE DISTRICT / ADRIAN HOUSTON / ADAM LYNK /

INSTALLATION OF THE NORTHERN ITALIAN CABINET BY ANNEMARIEKE KLOOSTERHOF, GHOST OBJECTS: SUMMONING LEIGHTONʼS LOST COLLECTION, LEIGHTON HOUSE, 2025. COURTESY OF JARON JAMES.


LONDON

Turner and Constable at the Tate

Featuring art that hasn’t been shown in Britain

for decades, The Tate exhibition Turner and

Constable: Rivals and Originals, runs November

27–April 12, spanning the 250th anniversary of the

artists’ birth. Among more than 170 artworks is

Turner’s The Burning of the Houses of Lords and

Commons, lent by the Cleveland Museum of Art

and Constable’s The White Horse.

£5 to join Tate Collective; tate.org.uk

THE ORKNEYS

Live Like a Victorian

Journey back to yesteryear at Boloquoy farm and

water mill, which has been painstakingly restored

to its Victorian and early 20th-century origins. This

summer you can book teas and tours at the historic

farm on Sanday, which was owned by the Fea family

from 1762–2023. From next April, you can also stay

there, with sessions to learn ancient rural skills,

homecrafts and baking or take wildlife tours.

Tours and teas from £33, five nights for six from

£2,950; boloquoy.co.uk

YORK

Station Hall Reopens at

Railway Museum

It’s a big year for railways, marking two

centuries since the world’s first steam train

made its first journey. York’s Railway Museum

also re-opens its Victorian Station Hall on

September 26 after a major refurbishment, in

time for its own 50th anniversary. The 1870s

freight depot operated until the 1970s and will

continue to house royal carriages.

Free entry; railwaymuseum.org.uk



KENT

Christmas at Hever Castle

For a truly magical Christmas, step into the former

childhood home of Anne Boleyn, where twinkling

trees, roaring fires, and candlelit rooms await. Stay

the night in a luxurious bedroom or indulge in a

private festive dining experience in the elegant Tudor

Suite Dining Room or the majestic Castle Great

Hall. This year, the entire estate is being transformed

into the enchanting Land of Oz for you to follow the

Yellow Brick Road on a magical journey.

Prices for a stay from £215; hevercastle.co.uk

SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS

Royal Castles and

Highland Rascals

Discover the wild Scottish Highlands on a

luxury walking tour that delves into glens

and valleys once roamed by cattle thieves.

Enjoy stunning scenery, abundant wildlife,

and dramatic Cairngorm views with off-thebeaten-track

walks across moorland and

peaceful glens. Plus, a private driver will

take you to Balmoral Castle, beloved by the

late Queen, and romantic Glamis Castle,

home to the King’s grandmother, with a visit

to a Highland farmer.

From £4,565 per person (based on two

sharing) for 8 nights; the-carter-company.com

CUMBRIA

Skate by the Lake

Yes, we know it’s a long way off, but winter is coming – and last year’s debut skating

experience at Another Place The Lake was a sell out. Book early for this year’s

skating, from November 17–January 10, in a bigger glass-panelled glass marquee for

uninterrupted views of Ullswater. Stay the night for a complimentary session.

From £17; another.place/the-lake


LUXURY RETREATS IN THE UK’S DREAMIEST LOCATIONS

From cosying up fireside in a country cottage, to stargazing from a

dreamy hot tub at your clifftop hideaway, escape the everyday and

seek the magic of a staycation with Boutique Retreats. With over

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boutique-retreats.co.uk

+44 (0)1872 553 491

enquiries@boutique-retreats.co.uk

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+44 (0)1296 631671

WELLNESS

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

Crazy Bear Embraces Wellness

Known for its decadent duo of indulgent hotels,

The Crazy Bear group is embracing wellness,

with the launch of an onsite gym and wellness

space at its Beaconsfield site. It includes fitness

classes, Thai massages, an outdoor pool and

regular social wellness events. The concept is

set to be rolled out to the hotel in Stadhampton,

Oxfordshire, later this year.

crazybear.co.uk

SCOTLAND

Running Retreats

Katherine Lowrie has run through South America with

her husband; now they guide others at their Auchgoyle

Farm retreats, two hours from Glasgow. The threenight

getaways, in a timber-framed lodge or their

farmhouse, include trail runs, saunas, yoga sessions,

an art class, wild swimming and a rewilding walk,

along with homemade, organic meals.

Three nights’ full board £620pp;

auchgoylefarm.com


NORTH DEVON

The ultimate winter retreat

For a true coastal escape, The South Coast

Concierge and HIFE Retreats have crafted a

luxurious Winter Wellness Retreat at Tors Park

(25–28 November 2025) and are offering an

£100 reader offer discount (quote the code

BTJ100). Expect invigorating yoga, pilates,

guided walks, and exclusive access to a sea-facing

wood-fired sauna and ice bath. Pure bliss!

Priced from £1,500 per person (or £850pp

based on two sharing), inclusive of meals and

activities; thesouthcoastconcierge.co.uk

BATH

WELLNESS

Wellness at the Royal Crescent

For a spoiling stay in Bath, the Royal Crescent hotel takes some beating. Combine

a night there with a wellness retreat incorporating yoga, mindful breathing and

Pilates sessions. Book now for overnight retreats on November 9 or January 18. The

hotel spa now features treatments and produces from Irish brand Ground Wellbeing.

One-night retreat from £372.50pp, with meals; royalcrescent.co.uk

SOUTHERN ENGLAND

Spa Skincare

Love a facial but want a little extra?

Then try one of the science-led

treatments offered at Chewton

Glen in Hampshire and Cliveden

in Buckinghamshire. Following a

partnership with Decree, the doctorled

brand founded by Dr Anita

Sturnham, the two hotels’ spas now

feature a revitalising facial using the

brand’s unique morning protocol,

and a restorative treatment, using its

products for the evening. A bespoke

facial includes LED light therapy.

60 mins from £160; chewtonglen.com,

clivedenhouse.co.uk

THE LAKE DISTRICT

Hideaway Spa Breaks

Love a spa but want some extra privacy? Gilpin

Hotel & Lake House has launched Magical

Wellness Hideaway packages for anyone

recovering from illness, or who needs extra

spoiling. It includes three nights in a spa suite

or lodge with private steam room, sauna,

treatment beds and outdoor hot tub and the

chance to create bespoke skincare products.

Three nights with most meals, private spa

journey and one treatment from £2,994;

thegilpin.co.uk


Scan to enter · Win a magical overnight stay ·

Win a magical escape

TO NORTHUMBERLAND

Escape to The Tempus, where you’ll be immersed in a vibrant,

whimsical world and lose all sense of time

British Travel Journal has teamed up with The Tempus

to offer the chance to win an unforgettable

Northumberland escape.

One lucky winner and their guest will enjoy an

unforgettable overnight stay at The Tempus, a bold and

beautiful boutique hotel nestled within the peaceful Charlton

Hall Estate. Just moments from the Northumberland coast

and historic Alnwick, this is an escape like no other – a fusion

of modern design and rebellious charm that will captivate you

from the moment you arrive. Taking its name from the Latin

word for “time,” guests are encouraged to lose all sense of it as

they unwind and relax. Your luxurious stay includes a delicious

seasonal dinner for two at The Orangery restaurant, along with

a scrumptious breakfast the following morning. The Tempus

is renowned for its eccentric and beautifully curated interiors –

think rich colours, statement design, and glittering disco balls,

all of which create a vibrant and indulgent backdrop to your

stay. Experience The Tempus’s captivating style for yourself.

Enter now for your chance to win.

Enter via our website britishtraveljournal.com/competitions.

Last entries 31 December 2025. Over 18s only.


BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL • EXCLUSIVE READER OFFER •

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Book your table and discover the beauty of

Northumberland at The Tempus.

www.thetempus.co.uk | info@thetempus.co.uk | 01665 579173

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Spotlight on...

THE BRITISH PULLMAN

A Belmond train



As Belmond’s brand-new luxury

sleeper train, the Britannic

Explorer, takes to the tracks,

British Travel Journal embarks on

a railroad journey like no other

aboard the iconic British Pullman

Text by Sophie Farrah

There’s something deeply nostalgic and irresistibly

charming about a beautiful old train, and none

have quite such style, elegance, and historic

significance as the legendary British Pullman.

Today, this iconic train may transport passengers back

to the romance and glamour of the 1920s, but its array

of exciting journeys, which range from murder mystery

escapades to gastronomic dinners cooked by Michelinstarred

chefs, is designed to delight a modern audience.

I joined the train at London Victoria for a day

trip to Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire, and the sense

of whimsical charm was palpable before I had even

stepped on board. On the platform, glistening coupes

of deliciously fruity rhubarb mead were handed out by

smartly liveried staff, while a singer in glamorous period

dress performed classics from a bygone era. Already, the

mood was set.

Leading leisure and hospitality group Belmond own a

collection of luxury hotels, river cruises, and safaris across

the world, and the British Pullman is just one of its exquisite

trains. As it pulled into London Victoria, it was as if an A-list

celebrity had just arrived – commuters frantically scrambled

to take a photograph, whilst some ran from the other side

of the station just to get a closer look.

Carpets were carefully positioned in front of each of the

train’s doors, immaculate signs hung from each carriage,

and vintage table lamps glowed through the windows. The


In honour of the Cipriani, Belmond’s legendary hotel

in Venice, brunch is accompanied by a seemingly endless

amount of fresh Bellini cocktails, made with ice-cold Prosecco

and a seasonal pressed fruit purée (fragrant peach on my

journey). To say that this got the journey off to a flying start

would be an understatement…

After brunch, there was the opportunity to explore

the train’s historic carriages. The first ever Pullman coach

entered service back in 1874 and set the standard for luxury

train travel in America before the company’s founder,

George Mortimer Pullman, brought his business to the UK.

Today, the train’s lavish carriages date back to the 1920s,

with each bearing its own name, design fascinating history.

Every friendly fellow passenger that I met seemed to have a

favourite.

train’s charming, dedicated crew, who have a combined 200

years of experience between them, were on hand to greet

guests. I walked the length of the train, in awe of its grandeur,

and eventually stepped on board.

Crossing its threshold, you can immediately sense the

train’s glittering history. The ornate, carefully preserved

Art Deco-style interiors are simply breathtaking, from the

intricate marquetry, hand-stitched fabrics and period details

to the fresh flowers and shining silverware that adorn the

white linen-clad tables. Even the bathrooms – complete with

stained glass windows and mosaic floors – are a spacious

delight. Sitting at my neatly laid table, a vintage luggage

rack of shiny, polished brass gleamed overhead, whilst

intricately embroidered gold and cream curtains framed the

view perfectly. As we pulled out of Victoria Station, it felt as

though we had left the modern world behind.

Crossing the Thames at Battersea in southwest London,

the mouth-watering aroma of freshly baked pastries wafted

through the gently rocking carriages; they arrived at the

table warm and laced with seasonal fruit. The aptly named

‘Battersea brunch bowl’ swiftly followed, filled with sweet

seasonal berries, crunchy granola, creamy whipped yoghurt

and tangerine syrup. Next, a deliciously indulgent smoked

salmon royale, made with fish from esteemed London

smokehouse H. Forman & Son, served with caviar, poached

egg, fluffy English muffin, and a decadent hollandaise.


‘A vintage brass luggage rack gleamed overhead, whilst intricately embroidered curtains

framed the view perfectly....as we pulled out of Victoria Station, it felt as though we had

left the modern world behind’

There’s Audrey, which was damaged in a Second World

War air raid in 1940, and carried Queen Elizabeth II, The

Queen Mother and H.R.H. Prince Phillip. Perseus formed

part of Winston Churchill’s funeral train in 1965, while

Phoenix carried General Charles de Gaulle. More recently,

Paddington 2 was filmed on board. I travelled in Gwen which

was built in 1932 and once conveyed H.M Queen Elizabeth

(later The Queen Mother) to Brighton in 1948. Meanwhile,

the striking interiors in Cygnus are particularly unique - all

elegant emerald green and sleek walnut wood, the carriage

was recently redesigned by American filmmaker Wes

Anderson, and features his signature symmetrical lines, eyecatching

colour palette, and Art Nouveau-inspired style.

Free from the city, the train upped its pace as we passed

Windsor, Reading and Henley-on-Thames before speeding

through a picturesque patchwork of fields dotted with

sheep, meandering streams and chocolate box villages with

towering church spires. It couldn’t have been a more perfect

pastoral scene.

From the comfort of my sumptuous armchair I watched

as the vistas changed and absorbed the thrilling sense of

adventure that seems unique to rail travel. This luxuriously

slow mode of exploration was once filled with unexpected

discoveries and brief encounters along the way, and on board

the Pullman I relished in that very same feeling of opportunity

and nostalgic excitement. It felt as though anything was

possible, or maybe that was the Bellini talking….

Soon, we pulled into Oxford Parkway station and

were seamlessly ushered onto a fleet of smart coaches

which made the 15-minute drive to Blenheim Palace. Much

like the Pullman, the ancestral family home of the Dukes

of Marlborough is another icon of British history. Built


between 1705 and 1722, Blenheim Palace is a masterpiece of

Baroque architecture, one of England’s largest houses, and a

UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s also the birthplace of Sir

Winston Churchill, and has appeared in countless films and

TV series, from Bridgerton to Bond.

With just over four hours to explore, I strolled amongst

the stunning formal gardens, grand fountains and sweeping

parkland (landscaped by Capability Brown, no less) before

venturing inside the Palace’s historic walls. A guided tour took

me through the staggeringly opulent Palace State Rooms,

followed by a fascinating Churchill Exhibition and a new

immersive experience that explores ‘life below stairs’.

I then wandered across the sprawling walled garden,

took a ride on the Palace’s miniature train (not quite the

Pullman, but similarly charming), and even had time to

explore the impressive gift shop. Later that afternoon,

the coaches were on hand to whisk us back to the station

where we made it just in time to watch the British Pullman

majestically glide in. Back on board, the tables had all been

immaculately re-laid for dinner, corks were popped, and the

Champagne flowed.

Much like brunch, dinner is a gastronomic affair.

Menus on board are designed by Head Chef Jon Freeman

with a focus on local ingredients and British dishes with an

innovative twist. A succulent piece of Cornish hake came

first, with a silky warm tartar sauce, sweet Windsor beans

and tangy red pepper. More fish followed for me – a well-

IMAGES © CHARLIE MCKAY / RICHARD JAMES TAYLOR / CHRISTOPHER JOHN DOYLE


cooked salmon fillet on a bed of gently spiced and deeply

satisfying kimchi spelt and smooth sweetcorn purée, whilst

meat-eaters tucked into rump of Kent lamb, with spring

greens and lamb sauce. There’s an extensive wine list on

board and an excellent selection of bottles from some of

the UK’s very best vineyards, many of which the train visits

during the summer months. I chose Gusbourne’s Guinevere

Chardonnay – buttery, rich and laced with lemon, it paired

perfectly with the fish, and dessert…

As the sun set over the beautiful British countryside, I sat

immersed in the splendour of the train and savoured every

mouthful of smooth lemon tart, served with preserved lemon

cream and the satisfying crunch of sweet hazelnut praline.

Having fallen firmly under Pullman’s luxurious spell, I

began plotting my next route. All year round, passengers

can embark on various journeys from London, from full days

out to shorter Sunday lunch and dinner trips. In the summer,

there are adventures to vineyards and distilleries, charming

seaside towns, and seasonal events such as Goodwood’s

Festival of Speed. During the winter months, the train dons

its festive finery and heads to Bath for the Christmas markets

and Canterbury for the carols, as well as hosting cosy

seasonal lunches and a sparkling New Year’s Eve celebration

on board. Decisions, decisions…

For a longer trip, Belmond’s luxury sleeper train The

Royal Scotsman explores the glorious Scottish Highlands.

With exquisite interiors and breathtaking views, it takes

passengers on epic and exceptionally luxurious two- to sevennight

journeys with wild swimming, foraging, water rafting,

whisky tastings, castle visits and so much more along the way.

Another tempting option is Belmond’s hotly anticipated

Britannic Explorer – the first luxury sleeper train in England

and Wales, which launched in summer 2025. This pioneering,

meticulously designed train whisks guests from London

on unforgettable three- and six-night journeys through

Cornwall, The Lake District, and Wales, with onboard menus

created by Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan, a pioneer of

sustainable British gastronomy. Both trains feature five-star

service, sumptuous suites, opulent bar and dining carriages,

observation cars, and even on-board spa treatments. I am

not sure that I would ever get off…

As London’s skyline ebbed ever closer, delicious handrolled

truffles and excellent coffee (from H.R.Higgins – one of

London’s finest merchants) were served, presumably to soften

the blow of our imminent disembarkation. Soon, the train

eased back into Victoria Station. I reluctantly stepped off

and bid a fond farewell to both the wonderful crew and the

magnificent train itself, feeling honoured to have joined its list

of illustrious passengers. Re-entering the hustle and bustle of

the city, I floated through the station still contemplating my

next railroad adventure, filled with the joys of my dazzling day

trip back in time.

Journeys on the British Pullman start at £435pp. A round trip to

Blenheim Palace starts at £725pp and includes a 3-course brunch,

transfers to/from the Palace, entry to the Palace, a Champagne

welcome back on the train, and a 3-course dinner with wines,

petits fours, and tea/coffee. belmond.com/trains/europe/uk/

belmond-british-pullman


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I capture

THE CASTLE

A new hotel right on the doorstep of Alnwick Castle makes the perfect base for

exploring Northumberland. Jane Knight goes castle-hopping in the county, which

has more fortresses, keeps and strongholds than any other part of England

Text by Jane Knight

Talk about soaking up the view. I’m lying in the

freestanding bathtub, gazing straight out at the

battlements of Alnwick Castle. Steam curls above

the water, the light catches on the sweep of ancient

stone, and for a moment it’s hard to tell whether I’m in the

21st century or the 13th.

Britain’s second largest inhabited castle after Windsor,

this magnificent medieval pile has been the seat of the dukes

of Northumberland for centuries, evolving from a Norman

fortress to neo-Gothic palace and a filming location for

everything from Harry Potter to Downton Abbey. Right now,

though, it’s starring in my bathtime.

I’m in the Bailiffgate Hotel, Northumberland’s newest

boutique property, with 48 rooms barely a bowshot from the

castle. Owned by the duchy estate and managed by Bespoke

Hotels, it’s partly set in the Duke of Northumberland’s old

Commissioner’s House, which later became the market

town’s high school.

Now the suites in the Georgian townhouse – where

you’ll get the full soak and stare castle experience – are more

boutique than blackboard in style, and roomy enough for a

class of children. There are also less expensive (though less

characterful) castle-view rooms in a large, modern annexe,

where the contemporary restaurant and garden room also

look onto crenelations and curtain walls with arrow slits.

Given the hotel’s past, it’s no surprise to find that some

of the staff were pupils here when it was the Duchess High


School. ‘I always said I’d never go back to school,’ receptionist

Tracey Friar tells me as my son and I register at the former

school office, just over the corridor from the swish hotel bar.

‘And look where I’m working now.’ History lessons must have

been a doddle with that lot looming outside the window.

Today, you couldn’t choose a better base for a castlehopping

tour of England’s least overrun county. Wedged

up against the Scottish border, and the site of frequent

skirmishes between the two countries as well as invasions

from across the North Sea, Northumberland has more castles

than any other county in England – more than 70 of them

– and a cluster are easily reached from the Bailiffgate on a

route that reads like a chapter from a medieval chronicle.

But first, Alnwick, home of the Percy family for more

than 700 years, is so close to the hotel that it feels like we’ve

pitched up right at the portcullis. You don’t have to be a


nine-year-old Harry Potter fan to get drawn into a broomstick

lesson in the outer bailey, where Daniel Radcliffe first took

flight and Neville Longbottom memorably got tangled up on

the Barbican Gate.

Which is how I find myself galloping around the grass

with a broomstick between my legs baa-ing like a sheep (my

chosen ‘motor noise’) while my 19-year-old son does the

same, quacking like a duck. Wizard Wendy Wigglesworth,

our instructor, looks on approvingly and hands over our flying

licences with a flourish.

There’s more high culture within the castle walls,

though you’ll need to recalibrate from Hogwarts to High

Renaissance. Past the Norman arch and rounded medieval

towers, the interiors are unapologetically grand – think pinepanelled

ceilings, Versailles cabinets, and a decent collection

of Canaletto, Titian and Van Dyck.

Fans of Downton Abbey may recognise the marble-lined

staircase and cavernous dining room. I preferred the library,

with its 14,000 books along with a ‘lived-in look’ lent by

family photographs and Sky remote on the footstool beneath

a portrait of the current duke and duchess. (There are also

full-size family portraits in the hotel, to create a link between

the building and its past, and to spark conversation).

Outside, the Capability Brown landscape rolls gently

away, but it’s the duchess’s revival of the formal gardens

that provides the real showstopper. Chief among the topiary

and cascades is the Poison Garden: a locked-off enclave of

things that sting, paralyse or kill. Here we find the stingiest

nettle in the world, the gympie gympie, so dangerous that the

gardeners wear hazmat suits when tending it.

We pick up helpful tips, too, including the fact that

menthol toothpaste is better than dock leaves for nettle

stings, while using a hedge cutter to prune cherry laurel isn’t

a good idea, as it releases cyanide. ‘We’ve had 68 people

faint so far this year, imagining they’re being poisoned in the

garden,’ says team leader John Knox, who keeps an eye on

visitors. ‘And once a woman tried to steal some belladonna.’

For all the deadly flora, we emerge from the Poison Garden

oddly peckish. Fortunately, back at the Bailiffgate’s somewhat

stark restaurant, food is one of the draws – all beautifully

cooked and zinging with flavour. The scallops are a standout,

served in a curry sauce with prawns and an onion bhaji.

Another day, another castle, this time one that’s more

ruin than residence. Dunstanburgh is a giant of a fortress

flung dramatically on a headland above the crashing North

Sea. It’s the wildest of Northumberland’s castles, not least

because to get there, you need to walk.

We set off from the fishing village of Craster, famous for

its kippers and its bracing sea air, and follow a path threading

its way along the coast. The castle teases you from afar – first

a blur on the horizon, then a silhouette, and finally the twin

towers of the gatehouse rising from the sheep-grazed fields.

Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, started building it as a power

base in the early 14th century for his rebellion against Edward

II, but he lost his head before the last stone went on. Now

roofless and skeletal, Dunstanburgh’s full of drama with its

broken towers and jagged walls.


Timeless luxury, shaped by by by history

www.bailiffgatehotel.com

Made by nature, crafted by Bramley

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IMAGES © BRITAIN ON VIEW / SEAN ELLIOTT PHOTOGRAPHY / ALAN MASON / HISTORIC ENGLAND / WILLIAM WATSON-ARMSTRONG

‘Welcome to English Heritage’s most remote site in

the country,’ says site manager Andrew Swinburne, who

strolls this scenic commute to work in 20 minutes, weather

permitting. It’s a summer’s day when we visit, but we imagine

the sight on a blustery day, with the wind screaming round

the gaping windows, seabirds circling the cliffs below.

From here, the coast keeps calling. It’s another hour or

so’s walk north to The Ship Inn at Newton-by-the-Sea, or, if

your legs are protesting, a 15-minute buzz in the car. Either

way, it’s worth the journey. The seafood in Northumberland

is just-plucked-from-the-sea fresh, and here the local crab is

the dish to order to refuel after all that castle clambering and

coastal wind.

Over dinner, we check the tide tables – essential reading

if you’re planning a trip to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne,

which is cut off from the mainland twice a day by the North

Sea. It turns the journey into a minor pilgrimage, which feels

fitting: this was the cradle of Christianity in the north, home

to seventh-century saints Aidan and Cuthbert, and later an

11th-century priory modelled on Durham Cathedral.

From its ruins, we can see the fortress-style Lindisfarne

Castle, perched on a rocky knob and built by the Tudors to

keep the Scots at bay. It’s another bracing hike and a final

climb up a steep slope to reach it – but unlike Dunstanburgh,

this one’s not a ruin. In the early 20th century, Edward

Hudson, founder of Country Life, and his architect friend

Edwin Lutyens, turned it into a private holiday home,

complete with a domed dining chamber, a cosy living room

and sea-facing bedrooms. There’s even a Gertrude Jekylldesigned

walled garden tucked away behind stone walls.

From the rooftop, with its faux arrow slits added to give

it more of a castle feel, we spot our next target: Bamburgh

Castle, rising from a 150-foot basalt outcrop like it was

born to be on a movie poster. So it’s no surprise that it’s had

a few starring roles, including Mary Queen of Scots and

Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny. When we get there,

half an hour’s drive down the coast, it doesn’t disappoint:

a sprawling array of towers and turrets wrapped around a

medieval keep, silhouetted against the sea.

Long before the Normans pitched up, this was a royal

stronghold where the kings of Northumbria were crowned.

It’s weathered sieges, storms and Scottish incursions, and in

1464 earned the dubious honour of being the first castle in

Britain to fall to cannon fire during the Wars of the Roses.

In 1894, Victorian arms magnate and inventor William

Armstrong bought it, moved in, knocked a few bits down and

built himself a rather grand mansion.

Inside, it’s a spirited mix of styles – part medieval keep,

part Victorian showpiece, with private apartments tucked

away in one direction and a couple of castle holiday lets in

another. This summer, the star turn is the King’s Hall: all

vaulted drama and theatrical hammerbeam ceiling, currently

hosting props from TV series The Last Kingdom, including

the throne itself (yes, you can sit on it).

But the real joy lies outside. Cross the sand dunes to the

golden swathe of beach and look back at the battlements

etched against the sky to see the whole thing rising from the

rock like something summoned by CGI. And if you’re brave

enough for a dip in the North Sea, you’ll earn another soakwith-a-view

moment – different castle, but a story-book view

that’s just as spellbinding.

The Bailiffgate Hotel has B&B doubles from £149 a night

(bailiffgatehotel.com). Tickets to Alnwick Castle cost £21.55

(alnwickcastle.com) and £18.95 for The Alnwick Garden

(alnwickgarden.com), with visits to Bamburgh Castle costing £18.75

(bamburghcastle.com). Entry to English Heritage’s Dunstanburgh

Castle and Lindisfarne Priory costs £7.50 and £12.70 respectively.

Entry to the National Trust’s Lindisfarne Castle is £12.


ANOTHER PLACE,

another

ADVENTURE

British Travel Journal discovers how the familiar magic of the fells, invigorating

cold dips in the lake, and the comfort of the Brackenrigg Inn at Another Place

combine for a truly purposeful and restorative escape

Text by Jessica Way

Have you ever found yourself drawn back to a

beloved hotel, wondering if the magic will still be

as potent? The true measure of a favourite place

often lies in whether a second visit can recapture

the exhilaration of the first.

That beloved destination for me is Another Place in the

Lake District. For months, I’ve found myself regaling friends

and family with tales of the sublime days we spent there: the

exhilarating dips in the lake, adventures coasterring, the

local walks and the beautiful hotel framed by the majestic

mountain views.

There are three restaurants to choose from: the refined

Rampsbeck Restaurant with an open kitchen, and flavours

that occur naturally within the landscape, the relaxed

ambience of The Living Space and the Victorian-style

Glasshouse neatly positioned next to the vegetable and

herb garden serving woodfired pizzas by the water’s edge.

And for those seeking a more traditional taste of the Lakes,

The Brackenrigg Inn, the hotel’s own wonderful, welcoming

pub, is just a short stroll from the hotel.

It is super easy to lose track of time enjoying fellside

sauna sessions and invigorating dips in the lake, swimming

lengths of the pool and bathing in the hot tub, and there’s

a host of other active-wellness pursuits too, including

paddleboarding, kayaking, archery - and even wing foiling -

part wind power, part board sport.

However, our return this time was imbued with a

deeper purpose: we were there not merely for leisure, but

to participate in the annual Mighty Hike marathon, an

inspiring challenge undertaken each June in steadfast

support of Macmillan.

With over 2,000 enthusiastic hikers descending upon

the region, it was no surprise to encounter a few fellow

ramblers at the hotel and The Brackenrigg Inn – our base for


the weekend, offering full access to Another Place’s facilities.

Amongst them, an endearing gentleman at the bar shared

a poignant story: he had returned to Another Place for the

Mighty Hike every year for the past nine, his annual challenge

beginning with a group of five friends, initially in support of

a close companion newly diagnosed with cancer. Tragically,

over the years, each of his other friends has also faced a

diagnosis, leaving him as the last one standing, now raising

money in honour of every single one.

These formidable Macmillan Mighty Hikes are a series

of one-day half and full marathon fundraising expeditions

(May to September each year) in some of the UK’s most

breathtaking landscapes. There are twelve destinations,

including the Yorkshire Dales, Gower Peninsula, and the


Norfolk Coast. You might have read my previous articles

after taking part in the Jurassic Coast and South Coast

marathon events - this time I’m heading north to take on the

full-lap challenge of the stunning Ullswater Lake.

And it is a great year to be doing it, as 2025 marks the

10th anniversary of the series, which, since its inception in

2015, has impressively garnered a grand total of £70 million

for those affected by cancer, driven by their own deeply

personal motivations.

Yet, regardless of the season, walking remains an

indispensable pursuit for guests at Another Place. With

an abundance of walking guides readily available in the

lobby, Wainwright’s wisdom gracing their library shelves,

and OS Maps at the front desk, Another Place is deeply

embedded in Cumbria’s rich hiking heritage – truly, it is

always the opportune moment to lace up your boots in the

Lake District.

For seamless access to those perfect trailheads, Another

Place has partnered with Land Rover Discovery, offering

guests the complimentary use of a vehicle for their entire

stay. Choose between a five-seat Discovery Sport Plug-

In Hybrid or a seven-seat Discovery, and easily explore

Cumbria’s most awe-inspiring routes with their refreshed

collection of hiking guides.

Our inaugural visit to Another Place led us to the

captivating Aria Force/Gowbarrow walk, a trail that

IMAGES © RACHAEL SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY / MICHAEL LAZENBY / ADOBE STOCK / MATT GIBSON


seamlessly weaves together some of the Lake District’s

finest landscapes with the breathtaking spectacle of the

Aira Force waterfalls. While navigation can be a touch

intricate for the less seasoned rambler, making it ideal

for a clear day, the rewards are immeasurable, with the

possibility of spotting red squirrels. After marvelling at the

cascades, the path continues upwards around Gowbarrow,

unfurling truly panoramic views of Ullswater below. An

OS map and compass are advised for this 7km, two-hour

journey into Cumbrian beauty.

Another of the hotel’s most popular walks for guests is

Hallin Fell. The Lake District abounds with fells to conquer,

but sometimes, the most profound beauty isn’t found in

sheer scale. Hallin Fell is a testament to this, standing at

a modest 388m, yet offering some of the national park’s

most magnificent vistas. For first-time fell-walkers, or those

pressed for time but eager for a taste of the fells, few hikes

can rival Hallin Fell in the scenery stakes. This delightful

1.9km, hour-long hike, easily navigable in most weathers

and conquerable in under thirty minutes, is located on

the east side of Ullswater, near the charming hamlets of

Howtown and Martindale. Described as the best short

walk in the area, it rewards with astounding views of the

entire length of the lake. While a short, steep ascent from

the old Church starts the journey, reaching it is a breeze

– a 15-minute drive to Pooley Bridge, or a bus ride before

catching the iconic Ullswater Steamer to the quieter eastern

shore. This side of the lake offers wonderfully peaceful fell

walking; while a narrow road runs along it, the steamer

offers the most idyllic start to your adventure.

Then there’s the Ullswater Way, a truly immersive

journey around the lake itself – and indeed, this was our

noble quest for Mighty Hike day. Our day began with a

mountain-worthy breakfast at the gorgeous Brackenrigg

Inn, setting us up perfectly for our Lakeland adventure.

Following our invigorating walk, the promise of warmth

and relaxation beckoned; a refreshing swim in the lake from

Another Place’s private jetty, and a blissful lakeside sauna

experience melted away any lingering fatigue, easing our

legs after the miles traversed.

As dusk settled, we savoured the culinary delights at

Another Place’s The Living Space restaurant, before a

magical stroll back to the Brackenrigg Inn under a canopy

of dark skies and a million stars, culminating in the best

night’s sleep imaginable. As for my second stay at Another

Place, that intangible magic I’d so fondly remembered? It

wasn’t merely undimmed; it had deepened. There’s always

‘another’ time to visit Another Place, and on this occasion,

I can say that I’ve been there, I’ve done it, and I’ve got the

Macmillan T-Shirt.

Rooms at the Brackenrigg Inn start from £150 a night B&B in

June (or £180 a night in November) with access to all the elements of

Another Place hotel, including the pool, the restaurants and sports.


CHECKING IN

at the

HOLISTIC HOTEL

Down by the river in south west London, Bingham Riverhouse is rewriting

the rules of the modern escape. British Travel Journal checks in to the UK’s

first B Corp–certified independent hotel for an experience where luxury,

sustainability, and wellness flow effortlessly together


Perched on the banks of the Thames

in leafy south west London, Bingham

Riverhouse is all about balance. Yoga

classes unfold in its picturesque riverside

gardens, while ‘mindful mini-bars’ tempt with cans

of CBD-infused bubbles instead of alcohol.

Downstairs, the award-winning restaurant

serves a strictly seasonal, sustainability-led menu,

while in the lively members’ bar, cocktails flow

alongside mugs of ceremonial-grade cacao. It’s

hedonism, made healthy.

At the heart of it all is a desire to nourish both

people and planet. In 2024, Bingham Riverhouse

became one of the first B Corp–accredited hotels

in the UK – a testament to its commitment

to social and environmental performance,

transparency, and accountability, both as a hotel

and as an employer.

Stepping through its understated blue front

door, this handsome Georgian townhouse feels

more like a private home than a hotel. Perhaps

it’s the genuinely warm welcome from the friendly

staff, or the twinkling river views visible from nearly

every stylish corner. Much of the house’s warmth,


‘From different styles of yoga to breathwork, sound healing, and more, there’s something

on offer every day, designed to soothe the stresses and strains of modern life’

however, comes from its owner, Sama Trinder (pictured left

with executive chef Vanessa Marx, right) – a self-confessed

former ‘hellraiser’ turned yoga teacher, energy worker, and

entrepreneur, with a passion for weaving wellbeing into

everyday life.

Based within the hotel is bhuti – a wellness sanctuary

offering holistic treatments, a variety of classes,

transformative workshops, and retreats, many led by Sama

herself. From different styles of yoga to breathwork, sound

healing, and more, there’s something on offer every day,

designed to soothe the stresses and strains of modern life.

Whether you choose to partake or not, it adds a sense of

serenity to the house; crystals subtly twinkle in corners,

tea lights flicker, and the occasional waft of incense drifts

through the cosy corridors.

That said, it’s not all meditation and gong baths. Step

into the beautiful drawing room and you’re greeted by tall,

ornate ceilings, vast river-facing windows, and a buzzy bar

where cocktails are shaken and records spun.

The walls are lined with colourful artwork and rows of

vintage Penguin Classics, while a striking dried floral display

frames the open fireplace. The house’s characterful past

is palpable: once a literary and artistic hub, it was home

to poets Edith Cooper and Katherine Bradley – writing

together as Michael Field – and frequented by the likes of

W.B. Yeats, John Ruskin, and more. In 1984, Sama’s Kenyan

mother, Ruth, and English father, Bill, bought the property

as part family home, part quirky B&B, before Sama took

the reins in 2001 and transformed it into the holistic haven

it is today.


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WIN

A LUXURY

OVERNIGHT

STAY

£6.95

WILD LUXURY | COSY COTTAGES | HARVEST FEASTS | ROOMS WITH VIEWS

Upstairs, 14 luxurious bedrooms are tastefully styled

with sustainable mid-century furniture, leafy terrariums

and calming neutral tones. I checked into a ‘Best River

Room’ – a spacious, light-filled retreat with panoramic

views over the glittering Thames and pretty gardens below.

Beneath an elegant bay window, a hand-forged copper

bathtub gleamed in the daylight, accompanied by generous

glass bottles of La Eva’s natural and organic products.

The supremely comfortable king-sized bed is also ethically

sourced and organic (at least the mattress is) and dressed in

silky-soft sheets, a cosy wool throw, and cheerful pink velvet

cushions. Having encountered my fair share of mini-bars, I

was both surprised and impressed by the hotel’s wellnessinspired

take: designed to help guests sleep well and wake

refreshed, it’s stocked with CBD- and functional mushroom–

infused drinks, alongside health-conscious snacks.

Downstairs, towers of afternoon tea caught my eye.

Guests can opt for a traditional spread or try the hotel’s

own ‘bhu-tea’ – an entirely plant-based, refined sugar-free,

and mostly gluten-free alternative thoughtfully designed to

be both sustainable and sumptuous. Resisting temptation,

I headed outside for a gentle yoga class in one of three

wood-framed domes dotted around the hotel’s pretty

garden. Almost entirely transparent, these sleek, serene

spaces feel fully immersed in nature and are luxuriously

equipped with neatly laid mats, comfy bolsters, and cosy

sheepskin rugs.

After class, I made my way to the hotel’s new cocoonlike

treatment space for more nurturing, this time in the

expert hands of experienced therapist Rebecca Maguire.

Much like the hotel itself, she takes a holistic approach,

attending to the physical, emotional, and energetic.

Her personalised, highly intuitive and deeply restorative

treatments combine sound healing with aromatherapy

lymphatic massage, utilising therapeutic-grade essential

oils, herbs, and delicious teas hand-blended in-house.

Well and truly relaxed, I floated out onto the idyllic

stretch of towpath waiting behind a gate at the bottom of

the garden. Turn left, and you’ll pass Petersham Meadows,

dotted with grazing cows, and the National Trust’s stunning

17th-century Ham House just beyond. Turn right, and

within minutes you’re in the heart of Richmond – a leafy

riverside London suburb where cobbled lanes are lined with

independent shops, the village green is framed by period

houses and cosy pubs, and recent fame comes courtesy of

the smash-hit Apple TV+ series, Ted Lasso.

I returned ‘home’ to the Riverhouse to the sound

of cocktails being shaken. All the classics are on offer,

alongside an extensive wine list and a few twists. Tempted

as I was by the mushroom martini made with Sapling’s B

Corp-certified vodka, Kahlua, and adaptogenic mushroom

coffee, I plumped for a Bingham Colada, crafted with

coconut cream, pineapple juice and Everleaf – a nonalcoholic

aperitif made from a blend of 14 sustainably



sourced botanicals, including saffron and Madagascan

vanilla. It absolutely hit the spot.

At the heart of Bingham’s B Corp ethos is its

restaurant. South African-born award-winning

executive chef Vanessa Marx is deeply passionate about

sustainability, seasonality, and mindful eating. When she’s

not busy wild swimming or riding to work on her electric

scooter, she can be found devising her creative style of

modern ‘feel-good food’, experimenting with low-waste

alternatives, and chatting with guests about her choice

of delicious ingredients, all of which she carefully sources

from handpicked suppliers.

Fresh fish and seafood arrive daily from Brixham

Fish Market, while meat, dairy, and eggs come straight

from Haye Farm, an organic, regenerative, high-welfare

farm in East Devon. Oyster mushrooms are sourced from

Wimbledon Rooftop Farm, a nearby urban grower that

upcycles used coffee grounds to cultivate fabulous fungi.

Premium, traditional-method Greek olive oil comes from

Honest Toil, and even the salt is thoughtfully chosen –

produced by Blackthorn in Scotland using 100% pure sea

water and a traditional graduation tower, harnessing the

power of wind and sea.

Marx’s menus – printed on recycled paper made using

elephant poo – are a mouth-watering medley of flavours

and textures, offering both nourishment and indulgence in

equal measure. Highlights include her signature ‘bierbrood’

– a dense South African bread which Marx makes using

organic Gilt & Flint IPA and serves with a moreish whipped

organic butter; a light, crispy tempura oyster wrapped in

delicate nori, paired perfectly with salty ponzu; and thick

fingers of toast generously piped with smooth cashew pâté,

its richness satisfyingly balanced by zingy pickles, crispy

onion, and spicy sriracha.

A ball of goat’s milk burrata was a creamy, earthy

delight, lifted by sweet chunks of Isle of Wight tomato,

Riverhouse’s own fig leaf oil, and pink pickled onions. All

this plus a huge bowl of bright green, pillowy-soft, fresh

gnocchi, bathed in a creamy artichoke and charred leek

sauce dotted with colourful herbs and leaves.

IMAGES © HELEN CATHCART / HOLLY FARRIER


made with coconut milk, a generous pinch of cinnamon and

ginger, and a dash of adaptogenic mushroom powder – was

the epitome of comforting.

After breakfast, I watched as other guests pedalled off

on the hotel’s bicycles, while some headed for the river with

borrowed paddleboards. I wandered back into the garden

for one final class – a guided meditation with Sama, seated

beneath the gentle sway of a willow, the dappled sunlight

and soft rustle of leaves creating a perfect moment of calm.

Back inside, the scene is effortlessly charming: members

tapping on laptops sit alongside friends laughing over

lunch, while in the corner, a woman with a yoga mat sips

her matcha in quiet contemplation. And that’s the beauty

of Bingham Riverhouse – by the river, the choice is yours.

Meditate, stretch, or lose yourself in a sound bath. Soak in

the tub, catch up on sleep, or pen the next chapter of your

novel by the fire. You can eat, drink, and dance, fuelled

by margaritas or medicinal mushrooms. Or simply sit by

the window and watch the river flow by. Here, luxury,

sustainability, and wellness coexist in stylish harmony

– and it’s this unique combination, delivered with such

authenticity and care, that makes this lovely house by the

river so special.

Dessert was equally thoughtful and indulgent. A thick

slice of rich chocolate and cashew parfait arrived, drizzled

with date caramel (refined sugar-free, though you’d never

guess) and topped with vibrant pink petals and a generous

pinch of salt. Marx proudly tells me the chocolate is from

Xoco – the world’s first producer to cultivate its own singlevariety,

fully traceable cacao. This is delicious decadence

with a conscience.

The following morning, I woke feeling full of beans and

pulled back the curtains to reveal the Thames flowing past

in all its glory. Ducks and boats glided by as the first dog

walkers and cyclists began their daily parade along the

towpath. Tempted as I was by the glistening copper tub, I

pulled on my robe and went for a soothing session in the

hotel’s infrared sauna. Suitably warmed up, I made the

dash downstairs into the garden and quickly rinsed off in

the outdoor shower before plunging into the steel ice bath,

perfectly positioned beneath a vast tree. What a way to

start the day! And it was about to get even better…

As you’ve probably guessed by now, breakfast at the

Bingham is far from your usual hotel affair. A bountiful

buffet, neatly arranged beneath a picture-perfect river-view

window, offers bread (four different types), ‘gut-loving’

muffins, and a kaleidoscopic array of fresh juices and

smoothies, as well as cheese and charcuterie. A very good

eggs royale is served with trout and a delightfully light

hollandaise, while my bowl of creamy chia oat porridge –

Bedrooms from £160, room only; binghamriverhouse.com


FINDING

new flavours

in the

COTSWOLDS

Hide away from the crowds in Coln St Aldwyns – the beautifully understated

gateway to the Cotswolds’ best new pubs and farm shops

Text by Amy Bonifas

If you’ve ever visited the Cotswolds on a sunny Saturday

afternoon, you’ll know how packed certain charming high

streets can become. But, there are still plenty of hidden

villages nestled in the undulating countryside that offer

peace, tranquillity and delicious local food.

One such place is the dreamy parish of Coln St Aldwyns

– close to the Cotswold ‘golden triangle’ between Burford,

Chipping Norton and Stow-on-the-Wold, but far enough

to feel like your own slice of rural heaven. Our base for the

weekend is Boutique Retreats’ dog-friendly cosy Clover,

a classic honey-hued cottage with a rolling front garden,

original beams and a wood-burning stove. Thoughtfully

decorated with a palette of soothing sage and pistachio

greens, there’s also a courtyard garden with plenty of dining

space, a second bedroom snug for children, and an Everhot

cooker – perfect for living the country cottage dream.

But first, we test out the local pub. The New Inn is an

ivy-clad 16th-century coaching inn recently renovated by

local food duo Baz & Fred (who also own The Twig cafe in

Bibury, serving up exceptional coffee and pastries). It’s just a

two-minute walk down the road and is already bursting with

punters on this late summer’s evening. While sipping cold


pints of Deya (a local brew made in Cheltenham), we learn

the place has been booked by a wedding party, and can’t

help but get caught up in the excitement as guests spill out

onto the terrace, welcoming us and our dog into the throng.

We tear ourselves away for a dinner reservation at The

Swan at Southrop – the stunning Thyme Hotel’s pub outpost.

Though it’s humming with locals and hotel guests, the little

candle-lit tables are romantic and intimate, as we sip our

drinks – a chilled white Burgundy for him and an Italian bitter

soda for me. What follows is a feast that heroes big, bold

flavour and local ingredients. The rabbit, ham, and pea pie

nestles on a bed of hearty champ mash and thick red wine

jus, while the delicate poussin is served French-style with

lashings of tarragon, fresh fennel slaw, and crispy frites.



The next day, we’re on the hunt for local produce for a

dinner picnic in our cottage garden. To work up our appetite,

we stroll the Guiting Wood circular walk, which wends

through a protected estate of pretty woodland.

The Cotswold Guy is nearby in Guiting Power and

arguably the most underrated farm shop in the area. Owned

by former private chef Christopher Davey, a fellow travel

writer tipped me off about his mouth-watering sausage

rolls – David Beckham’s favourite, apparently – and we

weren’t disappointed. In my opinion, the warm, gooey cheese

and leek roll just trumps the meaty version, but it’s wholly

necessary to try both. The front of the shop is lined with wild

asparagus bunches and punnets of plump, juicy strawberries

(in autumn, I imagine a glut of blackberries and gourds), and

IMAGES © M J HERITAGE / GABRIELLAOSULLIVAN / SHUTTERSTOCK


you can order fit-to-bursting sandwiches, cakes and those

sausage rolls at the counter. We sit on the quiet terrace,

tucking into The Cotswold Guy Club sandwiches (creamy

chicken, buttery avocado smash and plenty of tangy tomato

chutney), watching hikers pass by to the tune of someone

practising acoustic guitar in a nearby garden.

Daylesford Farm Shop is our next stop, and while not

exactly an under-the-radar destination, I’d heard they’d just

released a selection of new cheeses (available from their

Cheese Room) and opened an ice cream and sorbet window

with delectable flavours like local honey and fig, and rhubarb

and geranium – divine. For our garden picnic, we pick up

In the morning, I spot my husband striding up the

garden path from the bedroom window, armed with

steaming Flat Whites and a pack of local smoked streaky

bacon from the village store, and I’ve honestly never seen a

better sight.

For one final treat on the way home we head to the

Farmer’s Puppy, Jeremy Clarkson’s bar and tent shop,

(outside The Farmer’s Dog pub), which is a slightly calmer

alternative to the queues at Diddly Squat. It’s filling nicely

with hungry bank holiday makers as we order sausage

brioche buns with mustard (yes, it’s our second breakfast)

to go. There’s no ketchup to be had here, as the place only

serves 100% British ingredients, but there is local apple

juice, thick cuts of beef and bee juice chocolate bites.

As the crowds ramp up further, we smile smugly at

having found our own little piece of Cotswold paradise, just

up the road in Coln St Aldwyns. Now the challenge is trying

not to tell too many people about it…

Stay at Boutique Retreats’ Clover from £604 for a long

weekend or mid-week break. The cottage also welcomes one canine

companion; boutique-retreats.co.uk

some buttery Baywell Cheese (made by hand on the farm), a

truffle-spiked brie, fresh peaches and Daylesford’s signature

sparkling rosé.

On the way back, we zip through Stow-on-the-Wold,

where the high street begins to heave, and The Bell pub is

filling up with people and dogs after their walks. It’s a relief

to get back to the calm of our little village and light the fire

pit in the garden. We watch the stars as they slowly appear,

savouring the crisp bubbles and last morsels of cheese.


A ROOM

with a view

From castle-crowned horizons to idyllic rolling fields, British Travel Journal

reveals ten beautiful bedrooms worth booking for their views alone



2BEST FOR PICTURE-PERFECT

PEAKS

Hidden away in the Northwest Highlands, The

Torridon is a remote and luxurious escape where

unspoilt Scottish wilderness meets laid-back elegance. This

picturesque 58-acre parkland estate brims with character – think

roaring log fires; a glistening whisky and gin bar; warm, attentive

service; and fairytale-like turrets, all framed by breathtaking

scenery. Book the 1887 Master Suite and you’ll wake up to

postcard-perfect views of shimmering Loch Torridon framed by

the towering, often snow-capped Torridon Hills. These soaring

peaks are some of the most dramatic and spectacular in the

British Isles and are made of some of the oldest rocks in the world.

Looking up at them each day is a truly awe-inspiring experience.

From £1,500 B&B; thetorridon.com

1BEST FOR FOREST BATHING

Tucked away in ancient Sussex woodland,

Looking Glass Lodge is a luxurious, glassfronted

treehouse for two, where floor-toceiling

windows blur boundaries with nature, offering

total seclusion and wraparound forest views. It

earned its name thanks to its full-height, panoramic

electrochromic windows – which let you see out, but

keep nature from seeing in. Owners Rik and Lindsey

have thoughtfully combined contemporary architectural

design and cosy comfort with sustainable principles

and cutting-edge technology. Sensitively built by local

craftsmen beside a majestic giant redwood, the sleek

space offers complete immersion in nature. Spot wildlife

from the bath or out on the terrace, or watch the leaves

dance in the breeze as you snuggle up by the floating log

burner. Set between Rye and Hastings, there’s plenty to

explore locally – if you can tear yourself away from the

green and serene views.

From £590 for 2 nights; lookingglasslodge.co.uk


3BEST FOR ANCIENT

HISTORY

With an enviable position in the heart of

Edinburgh, right next to the esteemed

National Gallery, 100 Princes Street is a luxurious

townhouse hotel with bold, eclectic interiors, slick

service, glamorous rooms, and unrivalled views

of the city. Book a Castle View room and that’s

exactly what you’ll get – uninterrupted vistas of

Edinburgh Castle that are so inspiring you may well

think you’re still dreaming when you draw back

the curtains in the morning. Two signature suites,

The Archibald and The Isobel – named after famed

Scottish explorers Archibald Menzies and Isobel

Wylie Hutchison – offer equally breathtaking views

of one of Scotland’s most iconic landmarks.

From £745 B&B; 100princes-street.com

4BEST FOR DOLPHIN

SPOTTING

For a front-row seat to the sea, check into

Carbis Bay Hotel near St Ives in Cornwall.

This five-star retreat sits on its very own private Blue

Flag beach and features a clutch of ultra-luxe Beach

Lodges – originally built to host world leaders during

the 2021 G7 Summit. Today, the lodges, which sleep 6,

offer barefoot luxury at its best: sleek, light-drenched

interiors, freestanding baths, hot tubs, and stunning

floor-to-ceiling views across golden sand and turquoise

water. The waves alone are mesmerising, but keep your

eyes peeled and you’re likely to spot dolphins leaping

through the bay and seals bobbing in the shallows.

From £1,800 per night, including a breakfast hamper

delivered to the lodge; carbisbayhotel.co.uk

5BEST FOR CALMING

WATERS

The Lake District doesn’t get much more

luxurious than Langdale Chase. Sat in prime

position on Windermere’s edge, this recently refurbished

grand Victorian house blends period charm with

modern comfort in seriously photogenic style. Many

of its plush bedrooms offer cinematic lake views, but if

you’re looking for real wow factor, book The Boathouse.

Built in 1896 and beautifully restored, it’s the hotel’s only

bedroom that sits directly above the lake. With its own

entrance, private jetty, outdoor terrace and direct beach

access, it offers uninterrupted views over Windermere’s

mirror-like waters, which can be enjoyed from the kingsized

bed, the indoor roll top bath, or from the outdoor

copper hot tub. Decisions, decisions…

From £640 B&B; langdalechase.co.uk



6BEST FOR…

MOVIE MAGIC

There are few more

captivating sights than St

Michael’s Mount. Rising dramatically

from the sea just off Cornwall’s south

coast, this ancient tidal island is steeped

in legend and crowned by a fairytaleesque

medieval castle. A favourite

filming location for fantasy epics, it’s

graced both big and small screens with

its cinematic allure.

Book Room 1 at boutique B&B Chapel

House in Penzance and you can admire

this magical island without leaving your

king-sized bed, alongside the everchanging

scene of boats gliding in and

out of Penzance Harbour. The beautiful

bedroom blends Georgian elegance with

modern comfort, with a soothing colour

palette, striking artwork, and a huge

rectangular bath – big enough for four –

with even more sweeping sea views.

£200 B&B; chapelhousepz.co.uk

8BEST FOR WILD ENCOUNTERS

Think you need to hop on a plane to sleep beside

lions? Think again. Port Lympne Hotel & Reserve

in Kent is an extraordinary conservation-led wild

animal park, home to endangered species, immersive stays,

and safari-style experiences set across hundreds of acres of

Kentish savannah. Book one of its two seriously swish Lion

Lodges and you might just wake to the unforgettable sight of

a lion at the foot of your bed. The first of their kind anywhere

in the world, the Lion Lodges are timber-clad, Manhattan

loft-style hideaways set within the lions’ spacious habitat. With

vast picture windows in both the master bedroom and openplan

living area, guests are just a whisker away from these

magnificent big cats. Outside, raised private decks are home to

Scandinavian-style outdoor baths, which offer more front-row

views of the pride

From £1,450 B&B; aspinallfoundation.org

7BEST FOR ROLLING

FIELDS

Views don’t come much more beautiful

than rolling green fields in all their

picturesque, patchwork perfection. At the foothills

of the Black Mountains, where the Olchon Brook

traces the ancient border between England and

Wales, a former cider mill has been reimagined

as an irresistibly cosy, deeply luxurious hideaway

for two. Nestled within 12 unspoilt acres just half

an hour from Hay-on-Wye, Windfall lies in the

heart of Herefordshire’s Dark Sky territory and

offers sweeping vistas of vibrant green fields

and far-reaching countryside. Staggering views

of the immense Black Mountains are framed by

oak windows throughout, whilst in the generous

garden, a wood-fired Hikki bath and fire pit offer

yet more jaw-dropping panoramas of patchwork

fields and distant peaks.

From £1,150 for a short break, £1,550 for a week,

including a welcome hamper; uniquehomestays.com



IMAGES © LOOKING GLASS LODGE - DAVE BROWN / THE TORRIDON - MATT BUCKLEY / WINDFALL - DAVID CURRAN FOR UNIQUE HOMESTAYS / VINE COTTAGE - WRAXALL / DAVE WATTS

9BEST FOR SKYLINE SCENES

Towering high above the city skyline within

The Shard, Shangri-La is a five-star hotel

that offers sky-scraping luxury and unrivalled

views across London. All rooms come with incredible

urban vistas, but for the full immersive experience, book

the London Suite. Set high on Level 38, this elite onebedroom

retreat blends the elegance of the hotel’s Asian

heritage with the bold architecture of The Shard.

There are mesmerising views through every vast

window – even in the marble-clad bathroom – stretching

across the Thames and dotted with nearly all of the

capital’s most iconic landmarks. A telescope and skyline

viewing guide are both provided, along with a bottle of

Champagne.

Superior Shard rooms start at £650 B&B (London

Suite from £4,500); shangri-la.com/london/shangrila

FOR WINE LOVERS

Spread across a sunlit south-facing

slope near Shepton Mallet, Wraxall

10BEST

Vineyard – planted in 1974 – is Somerset’s

oldest, and produces award-winning still and sparkling

wine. Panoramic vine and countryside views stretch from

the ancient oak at the top of the estate to the sleek, glassfronted

tasting room – aptly named The View – where

Wraxall’s delicious wines are poured alongside seasonal

small plates. This friendly, family-run vineyard is also home

to a handful of cosy, carefully restored cottages and two

brand new shepherd’s huts, all of which boast impressive

vineyard vistas. For a group getaway, Vine Cottage is the

one to book. Sleeping 8-10, this stylish, spacious hideaway

is filled with country charm and comfort. Several bedrooms

gaze out over Wraxall’s neat rows of leafy vines, dotted

with plump grapes. As the sun sets, it feels more like the

South of France than Somerset, especially with a glass of

Wraxall’s finest in hand…

From £355 per night, minimum 3 nights (2 nights by

request). Includes a welcome hamper; wraxallvineyard.co.uk


It’s

HARVEST

time

Autumn is one of the best times to explore the British Isles, particularly when it

comes to discovering more about the produce that is grown and reared here

Text by Rebecca Pitcairn

A Beaujolais Nouveau-style experience

Sandridge Barton, Stoke Gabriel, Devon

For decades, the third Thursday of November has

been a date for French wine lovers to mark on their

calendars as the day ‘le Beaujolais Nouveau est

arrivé.’ This early bottling, offering a first taste

of the year’s Gamay harvest and known as “vin

de primeur,” was a way to celebrate the end of

the grape-picking season and captured global

attention. Here in the UK, during the BSE crisis of

the 1980s and 1990s the French refused our cattle.

In retaliation, a group of Devon farmers decided

not to purchase any Beaujolais Nouveau. Instead,

they asked local winemaker, Duncan Schwab, to

make a British version. It wasn’t possible at the time

to make a red early release wine, due to the UK

climate not allowing for the red grapes to ripen,

but Duncan agreed to make one with white grapes,

and Sandridge Barton’s New Release has been

a bestseller ever since. Like Beaujolais Nouveau,

the wine – usually a blend of Madeleine Angevine,

Bacchus and Pinot Gris – is released annually on the

third Thursday of November and is a cornerstone

of the winery’s harvest celebrations, complete with

a feast to mark the occasion. This year’s End of

Harvest Dinner takes place on 21 November 2025

at the estate’s restaurant, ROAM, housed inside the

stone walls of the rustically atmospheric former cow

shed, where head chef Sean Blood will deliver a menu

focused on ingredients grown, raised and foraged

close to home; sandridgebarton.com

Where to stay: Beaujolais Nouveau parties are

notoriously raucous, but diners don’t have far to stumble

with a Farmhouse, sleeping eight, right opposite. A little

further out on the estate, down by the River Dart, there’s

a romantic 1850s boathouse for two and a larger house

that sleeps 12 with an indoor pool and stunning views.

Prices start from £1,000 for a two-night stay in The

Boathouse. sandridgebarton.com


Harvesting game experience

Swinton Estate, Ripon, North Yorkshire

Great British Game Week, an annual celebration of all

that is great about British game, takes place from 3–9

November 2025, and the 20,000-acre Swinton Estate

in North Yorkshire has a week full of events and activities

lined up to celebrate.

Game-inspired lunch menus will be served across

the estate’s restaurants, showcasing the different game

reared on the estate alongside herbs, vegetables and fruits

harvested from the four-acre walled garden. You can even

learn how to prepare cook and serve a variety of seasonal

game, and how to approach individual cuts of meat to get

the most from this seasonal produce on a half day course

at the Swinton Cookery School (from £120pp) and join

talented chef Josh Barnes for an intimate gastronomic

tasting experience of estate game such as venison, duck,

rabbit and even squirrel, at Chef’s Table (from £75pp).

For something a little simpler, build up an appetite with a

walk across the estate to explore Druid’s Temple, before

tucking into a venison burger or woodfired game pizza at

Bivouac Café; swintonestate.com

Where to stay: Continue celebrating the great outdoors with

a stay at Swinton Bivouac but, if you’re concerned the off-grid


‘It’s easy to lose yourself in the 105 acres of gardens that surround Chatsworth House –

home to 17 generations of the Devonshire family – but a good place to start, particularly

during the fruitful time of harvest, is the orchards of the kitchen gardens...’

yurts and treehouse might be a little close to the elements

then book into The Lodge, a self-contained space above

a farmhouse at the Bivouac for those who feel that pull of

glamping, but just can’t do without the luxuries of a reading

light or TV to catch the latest episode of their favourite show.

From £348 per night for two adults and up to four children.

Seasonal centrepiece experience

Chatsworth, Bakewell, Derbyshire

It’s easy to lose yourself in the 105 acres of gardens that

surround Chatsworth House – home to 17 generations

of the Devonshire family for almost five centuries – but a

good place to start, particularly during the fruitful time of

harvest, is the orchards of the kitchen gardens, which are

laden with ancient specimens of apples and pears. Join

Chatsworth’s professional floristry team for an informative

talk and tour of this integral area of the estate gardens

before foraging for foliage and picking a pumpkin to

create an autumnal table centrepiece. The experts will

demonstrate and guide you in creating your masterpiece

so that it showcases the beauty of autumn at Chatsworth.

Workshops will be held on 16-17 October 2025, priced at

£75 and include garden entry; chatsworth.org

Where to stay: A short five-minute drive from Chatsworth

House is The Pilsley Inn. Dating back to the 18th century, the

traditional stone inn has a long history of providing hospitality

for this close-knit estate community and offers an idyllic rural

experience for guests travelling from further afield. Bedrooms

are decorated in a pared-back, country style, while the menus

are packed full of seasonal, freshly harvested produce, sourced

from both the kitchen garden of the inn, as well as the gardens,

fields and farms of the Chatsworth Estate. Don’t forget to call

at the Chatsworth Farm Shop, a short stroll away and fill up a

basket full of seasonal fare to enjoy back at home.

From £191 per night for a double room with breakfast,

chatsworthescapes.co.uk


‘Sibylla and Bruce Tindale founded High Clandon Estate vineyard 20 years ago to

produce aged, vintage sparkling wine. However, more recently the couple’s pet cocker

spaniels Persephone and Juno, have snuffled out black Perigord truffles on the estate.’

A truffle and bubbles experience

High Clandon Estate, East Clandon, Surrey

This small but perfectly formed vineyard estate in the

Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty is

famed for its English sparkling wine but it also has

another claim to fame.

Sibylla and Bruce Tindale founded High Clandon

Estate vineyard 20 years ago to produce aged, vintage

sparkling wine. However, more recently the couple’s pet

cocker spaniels Persephone and Juno, have snuffled out

black Perigord truffles on the estate – the first find in the

south of England and thought to be the second such in

England as a whole (the first was at Sandringham Estate

in 2018).

Their Truffles & Bubbles experience is hosted in

conjunction with professional truffle hunter, James Feaver

of the English Truffle Company, who delivers a talk on the

history of these rare ‘black diamonds’ of underground fungi

and a tour of High Clandon’s secret truffle orchard to hunt

out and harvest some gems with the hounds. It’s then back

to the estate’s glass barn for a truffle-themed two-course

lunch, tasting of High Clandon cuvées and a lesson in the

art of sabrage (opening a bottle of fizz with a sword).

Experiences are due to take place on 1 and 22 November

2025 and cost £200 per person; highclandon.co.uk

Where to stay: The decadence of sparkling wine and truffles

will set you up nicely for a stay at the former home of Lord

Beaverbrook, just 20 minutes away on the outskirts of Dorking.

Famed for its 19th-century architecture, plush interiors, spa and

470 acres of woodland, there’s a variety of room options from the

main house, where Beaverbrook entertained high-profile guests

such as Ian Fleming and Winston Churchill, to the newest rooms

in The Village. However, the most appropriate harvest is The

Garden House with its adjacent kitchen garden.

From £610 per night for two people with breakfast;

beaverbrook.co.uk


A truly sustainable field-to-fork experience

Chapters, Haye on Wye, Wales

When it comes to sustainable dining, Chapters, in Britain’s

literary mecca of Hay on Wye, has been getting it right for

some time thanks to the conscious culinary approach from

husband-and-wife team Charmaine and Mark McHugo.

First awarded the Michelin Green Star for Sustainable

Gastronomy in 2022, which it has maintained since,

the restaurant’s zero-waste focus runs through all its

decision-making from product sourcing to menu planning.

Establishing a harmonious connection between field

and fork, Mark – previously of Six Senses in Oman –

heads up the kitchen, while Charmaine is front of house

and responsible for maintaining the half-acre no-dig,

chemical-free garden, where produce is grown and

harvested to directly fuel the restaurant’s fun and foragedfocused

menu. There’s a formal harvest-led menu served

in the evening at £65pp with dishes such as Pickled

Vegetable and Garden Herb Salad and Middle White

Pork Loin and Sausage with Braised Garden Leeks, New

Potatoes, Burnt Apple and Cider Velouté. A relaxed lunch

menu of sharing plate-style dishes is served on Saturdays,

alongside locally produced wine – yes, Wales produces

wine – beers, ciders and spirits; chaptershayonwye.co.uk

Where to stay: Sticking with sustainability in mind, By the Wye’s

treetop glamping provides off-grid, eco-friendly accommodation

with home comforts including sumptuous sofas, running water,

flushing toilets and fully equipped kitchens powered by solar

energy. Add roaring campfires and riverside views to the mix, and

you’ve got the best of both worlds.

From £370 for a two-night stay, bythewye.uk

A foraging and fermentation experience

Black Chalk, Andover, Hampshire

Rachel de Thample has been extolling the virtues of

foraging and fermentation throughout her 20-plus years

in food. Fellow enthusiasts can join her at Black Chalk in

Hampshire for a Totally Wild UK masterclass in the art.

Foraging is not only free and the perfect way to connect

with nature; gathering wild ingredients also provides

some of the best kick-starters for vivacious ferments, as

their deeper perennial roots can access a richer source

of bacteria to get your kimchis, krauts and kombuchas

bubbling with gut-friendly goodness. Touching on the

basics, while also delving a little deeper with adventurous


recipes, the experience involves heading out into Black

Chalk’s vineyard estate and the wider Test Valley to learn

what to forage in each season, before Rachel – author of

the River Cottage Fermentation Handbook – shows you

how to transform your wild things into delicious guthealth

ferments.

The next masterclass takes place on 13 September 2025

and costs £110; totallywilduk.co.uk

Where to stay: Designed and built by Wild Escapes using local

materials and cutting-edge techniques to minimise their impact

on the surrounding landscape while also maximising the views,

the four treehouses on the edge of Black Chalk vineyard are a

bit of guilt-free fun. With King-size beds, a wood burner and

a complimentary bottle of Black Chalk Classic in the fridge,

which you can sip while soaking in the outdoor zinc bathtub,

there’s no compromise on luxury.

From £272.50 per night for two people (two-night

minimum), wildescapes.com

E-bike harvest tour experience

White Heron Estate, Kington, Herefordshire

The family-owned Whittern – old Herefordshire dialect

for White Heron – Estate, in North Herefordshire, is home

to 700 acres of arable, woodland and pasture. Here

they grow all manner of crops the county is famous for

including, apples and blackcurrants and – more recently,

grapes. Accompanied by a knowledgeable guide, jump

on an e-bike and ride through the vineyards, orchards

growing apples for cider houses like Aspall and Bulmers

and blackcurrant fields (the farm is one of the biggest

suppliers for Ribena), stopping en route to hear about

the history and heritage of the farm. You will see crops in

situ – or even being harvested – and the biodiversity and

environmental schemes that have been introduced on the

estate before sampling their award-winning British Cassis

liqueur, Framboise, sparkling wine, apple juice and cider.

Tours take place throughout October 2025, last two hours

IMAGES © WOJCIECH SUKIENNIK / CHATSWORTH HOUSE / ANNA BATCHELOR / PHOTOPIA


‘Accompanied by a knowledgeable guide, jump on an e-bike and ride through the

vineyards, orchards growing apples for cider houses... stopping en route...’

and cost £75 per person including a gourmet harvest

picnic served on a rustic oak table, overlooking the

vines; whiteheronestate.com

Where to stay: White Heron has a collection of six

self-catered accommodation including farm cottages, a

Queen Ann house and a luxury converted Victorian stable

block, making it possible to combine the tours with a stay

on the farm. Each of the cottages has a hot tub or access

to an outdoor pool.

From £509 for a three-night stay in the two-bedroom

Field Cottage; whiteheronestate.com

A grape harvest escape

Rathfinny Wine Estate, Alfriston, East Sussex

A glass of wine tastes different – better even – when

you understand more about where it has come from

and the process by which it ended up in that glass,

such as dosage trials. Dosage is the small amount

of sugar added to a traditional method sparkling

wine – like Champagne or English sparkling wine

– after disgorgement (the process of removing the

dead yeast cells, or lees) before the cork is inserted.

It helps round off the finished sparkling wine in the

bottle to a particular level of sweetness. From the

end of September to the beginning of November

Ratfinny Wine Estate invites visitors to escape to the

vineyard during harvest for an overnight stay with

breakfast, three-course dinner in The Flint Barns,

and the chance to step into the shoes of a winemaker

and conduct a dosage trial, by adding different

levels of sugar to a base wine to see how it affects the

final style of the wine. Prices from £295.50 based

on two guests sharing a super cosy double room;

rathfinnyestate.com

Where to stay: Rathfinny has limited accommodation,

so if you can’t take advantage of the harvest experience

package, you can always book the 90-minute Dosage

Tour and Tasting (£35pp) separately and then book into a

hotel in Alfriston village, such as:

The Alfriston, from £150 B&B; thealfriston.com or

The Star, from £260 B&B; thepolizzicollection.com/

the-star.


NATURAL wonders

British Travel Journal heads to the glorious banks of the River Dart to the

well-established Devonshire vineyard that’s now taking the natural wine

world by storm and gets to the root of its success

Text by Emma Henderson

appearance as the temperature is creeping into the early 20s.

The vineyard is set in a valley and has taken over an old dairy

farm, and there’s a buzzy feeling that comes with unexpected

sunshine married with such a pretty setting (and good wine

and food, of course), full of relaxed people embracing the

weather in shorts and summery dresses, happily raising a

glass to the sky, both metaphorically and physically.

We’re starting our guided tasting tour sitting on a

Before you taste it, first start by holding the wine up

to the light – the colour is an indicator of how you

form the taste and you can see it’s hazy,” Debbie

McGregor explains, one of the team at Sandridge

Barton vineyard in south Devon, set on the banks of the

River Dart, just a few miles south of the market town, Totnes.

I’ve got a chilled glass of lemony-coloured unfiltered wine,

named Figgie Daniel, and taking in its aroma, there’s notes of

gooseberry and pear, and I can’t wait to take a sip.

I’m visiting the vineyard in early May, and very unusually,

it feels like British summer time has come early. White cottonlike

fluffy clouds are quickly passing through the otherwise

powdery blue skies, and the suncream has already made an


wooden picnic bench on a bankside overlooking the shop,

bar, restaurant and courtyard. Below us is a little babbling

stream separating us from the buildings in front, and behind

us are a few of the vineyards – it’s an idyllic setting for tasting

English wines.

What started off at Sharpham Vineyard, just the other

side of the River Dart, more than 40 years ago has now

hopped over to this side of the water and bloomed to become

Sandridge Barton, with more vines, grape varieties, plus a

brand new winery and restaurant. Though it still makes the

original Sharpham wines here, and serves its famous cheese,

which comes from Sharpham Dairy.

“We spent almost 40 years looking across to the other side

of the River Dart, thinking they’ve got more sunshine than we

have,” says Duncan Schwab, head wine maker at Sandridge

Barton who has been with the company since the Eighties and

explains the move. “We wanted to carry on the philosophy of

making wines on the banks of the River Dart,” he adds.

My wine tasting at Sandridge Barton has kicked off with

a glass of that delicious hazy wine, Figgie Daniel, from the

brand’s natural wine arm, ‘Don’t Feed The Ponies’. Its rather

abstract name is part of a campaign to encourage people not

to feed the semi-wild ponies on nearby Dartmoor, which was

inspired by Duncan’s daughter. Feeding them can encourage

the ponies to stay near the roads running through the moor

which can be very dangerous. There’s about 1,500 shaggy and

stocky-looking ponies on the moor, and their grazing plays an

important role in conserving and maintaining the moor as a

natural habitat. Each bottle in this range is named after one of

the moor’s Tors (a large rocky formation) and donates 25p to

the charity, Dartmoor Preservation Association.

Figgie Daniel is a col fondo, which means “with the

bottom” in Italian, meaning the ‘lees’ (the yeast after

fermentation) is left in the bottle after the wine is fermented

in the bottle, forming a little sediment at the bottom. Col

fondo is essentially the process of an original style prosecco,

before it became over-commercialised, and it was clarified

by going through the second fermentation in metal tanks.

Instead, this method retains its glorious haziness and also has

a delicious light fizz that’s much gentler than a champagne



or prosecco. It’s described as a sparkling wine alternative

with a more effervescent fizz, like an Italian frizzante. It’s

very citrus fruit heavy but is mellow and balanced, and feels

almost dangerously easy to sip in the sunshine. “As it’s been

fermented in the bottle, it rounds off all those flavours and it’s

a bit more complex,” says Debbie.

What makes the Sandridge Barton site so special and

good for vines lies far below the soil we’re trudging on

too. “The site ticks many of the right boxes for vineyards,”

explains Debbie. As well as being south facing, sheltered

and close to the river which prevents frost, the key is its really

high-grade limestone, that’s essentially fossilised coral from

millions of years ago.

Sandridge Barton’s site was set up in 2019, and with

the help of an EU grant, then of course the pandemic

came. Though Debbie says this meant “it worked to their

advantage, because it meant they could really concentrate

on getting the winery up and running,” which they had done

by October 2020, just in time for harvest.

After moving to the new winery at Sandridge Barton,

Duncan says they decided to only use natural yeast, and

not cultured yeasts that comes from a packet, which if used,

dominates the winery. He thinks using just natural yeast

makes the wines more complex, fruity and generally better,

which the entire offering of wines benefits from, not just the

low intervention range.

“Our whole ethos is about producing wines on the River

Dart, from grapes grown on the River Dart, which taste of the

region,” he says.

All of the low intervention wines are unfiltered, unfined

(fining is clarifying the wine), they’re vegan and vegetarian,

virtually no sulphur – though some have natural sulphur,

They’re designed for people “who are a bit bored” of run of

the mill wines, says Duncan, and want something that feels

and tastes more “alive”, which is exactly what Duncan says

they’re trying to create.

Back on the tour, we head over to the winery where we

see bottling, riddling (bottles are periodically moved in a

large machine to push sediment to the neck), disgorging

(removing the sediment) and many other impressive

mechanical elements of the process. In the winery, we

also taste the estate white that’s made from the vineyard’s

Madeleine angevine grapes (they grow well in cool climates

and are popular in the Loire Valley and Germany), which is a

more floral white with a little salinity.

We head back to the bench in the sun to taste the final

wine, the single vineyard pinot noir which can also be a good

one to chill for summer too, as it’s so light. It’s also paired with

some of Sharpham’s famous cheese too, a tangy brie-like

cheese which makes me realise lunch time has rolled around.

We only have to saunter over to the other side of the

courtyard to the newly opened farm to fork restaurant,

Roam, which focuses on local Devonshire produce, with

meat sourced from the estate and vegetables from the

kitchen garden and other local farms that follow no-dig and

regenerative practices.

We order the marinated courgette salad that’s drenched in

verjus dressing, giving it a little sourness, and it’s topped with

creamy burrata – a fresh dish perfect for the sunshine, while

the saffron, lemon and parmesan pasta is wonderfully creamy,

IMAGES © DAVID WATTS PHOTOGRAPHY


indulgent and so good I could have eaten another bowl. Plus

charcuterie and more Sharpham cheese, with a couple of

slabs of chunky bread and smoked salted butter.

Though I’m not staying this time, there’s plenty of

accommodation with the newest option being the pale pink

Lower Well Farmhouse, a beautifully converted building right

by the main hub of the vineyard, which sleeps eight. There’s

also the rather regal six-bed Georgian Sandridge Barton

House with an indoor pool, and the whimsical romantic

1850s boathouse that’s right on the water and is reached via

walking through the woods or by a short Land Rover ride.

I finish the day by walking off lunch through trails

around the vineyards. When we reach the highest of them

in the valley, all I see surrounding us is rolling lush greenery.

It would be sacrilegious to leave without at least having

a look in the shop, especially as I’m now hooked on Figgie

Daniel. I almost fill a case of it, while the last spot is saved

for a delicious single-vineyard pinot noir that’s going to be

served chilled in my garden at home – both bottles, though

very different, feel such an appropriate English tipple to

toast a very British summer. And who wouldn’t want to

raise a glass to that?

Book a short stay at Sandridge Barton House from £2,450.

Also on the estate, a 1850s style cosy two-bedroom Boathouse

from £1,000, and for large groups, their newly renovated

Farmhouse at Lower Well Farm is priced from £1200 per night.

Sandridge Barton has three tours ranging from £15pp-£45pp.

Self-accommodation options have a three or 4-night minimum

stay, and the restaurant is open seven days a week.

Four other natural wine English

vineyards to visit

1. Oxney Organic Estate, East Sussex

The UK’s largest single estate organic vineyard, which

was certified by the Soil Association back in 2009,

Oxney in East Sussex defied the idea that English

vineyards can’t be organic as they’re too wet. It

specialises in producing organic traditional method

sparkling wine, both white and rosé, that showcases its

excellent quality grapes. Go for a tour and stay over in

one of the shepherd’s huts.

oxneyestate.com

2. Trevibban Mill, North Cornwall

On the north Cornish coast, near Padstow, Trevibban

Mill is surrounded by farmland, native English

Southdown sheep, vines, and orchard trees. In addition

to making low-intervention and traditional wines, it also

produces ciders, all of which are made on site. Look

out for Orion, the skin contact wine or the Pet-Nat. The

South African-inspired tasting lodge, complete with a

large wraparound terrace, overlooks the vineyard too,

and it offers vineyard tours and tasting flights of both

wine and cider.

trevibbanmill.com

3. Westwell, Kent

Near Ashford in Kent, this vineyard, which sits on the

south-facing slopes of the North Downs, is familyrun

and is all about the experimental approach to its

winemaking. Following organic methods and promoting

biodiversity, it produces everything from traditional

method sparklers to col fondos, red, white and rosé, it

is’ the Pet-Nat and the Ortega skin contact wines that

standout and are a must to try on its tours.

westwellwines.com

4. Tillingham, East Sussex

After opening to the public with its rooms, restaurant,

pizza shed and tasting space, Tillingham, just outside

of Rye, has made a name for itself for its exciting pet

nats, skin contacts and its sparkling wines, all of which

follow a biodynamic approach. They’re also instantly

recognisable for their cool and understated labels.

Rooms are in the old oast building and the restaurant,

which overlooks the vines, is worthy of a trip alone.

tillingham.com


GREAT BRITISH

landmarks

In the 60 years since The Landmark Trust rescued its first property, it has

restored and transformed hundreds of Britain’s most fascinating historic buildings

into holiday homes. British Travel Journal uncovers some of its most unique stays

Text by Rebecca Pitcairn

1BEST FOR AN ISLAND BREAK

The Old School, Lundy

The unspoilt island of Lundy – a 400-foot

granite outcrop in the Bristol Channel accessed

via helicopter in winter and ferry in summer – offers

wide spaces, big skies and no roads, cars or pollution. A

stay on the island is a true escape from life as we know

it. Affectionately known as the ‘Blue Bung’, the island’s

former Sunday school is a charming, blue-coloured

building built in 1886 by The Rev. Hudson Heaven. Built

of timber and corrugated iron, it’s a snug little hideaway

with commanding views of the sea and mainland.

While you’re there: Lundy has a milder climate than the

mainland, with more sunshine and less rain, which attracts

a variety of rare and spectacular wildlife above and below

the waves. Spotting a seal will likely be a regular occurrence

during any stay here, but you can also swim with the seals on

day trips run by Lundy Diving (lundydiving.co.uk).

What to pack: Snorkels for spotting underwater wildlife

From £46.50 per person per night



2BEST FOR A ROMANTIC

GETAWAY

Clytha Castle, Monmouthshire

Romantic gestures are usually best served

when the recipient is alive, but for William Jones, the tragic

death of his wife in 1787 meant that this grand expression

of love was made in memoriam. Overlooking the Usk

Valley just outside Abergavenny, Clytha Castle was

commissioned by William Jones following the death of his

wife, Elizabeth, as a way of ‘relieving a mind afflicted by

the loss of a most excellent wife’.

The castellated gothic retreat stands on the summit of

a small hill at the edge of a grove of old chestnut trees

with little to no mobile signal, so it’s a real off-grid escape

from modern life and the perfect place to reconnect with

a loved one – or loved ones; there are six bedrooms so

that romantic getaway might just have to be shared with

friends or family.

While you’re there: This is real walking country, so dive right

into those magnificent views with a hike along the Usk Trail,

reachable right from the doorstep, while the majestic peaks

of the Black Mountains and Brecon Beacons are a short drive

away. Abergavenny’s foodie favourite, The Walnut Tree Inn

(thewalnuttreeinn.com), is well worth a pit stop.

What to pack: Hiking boots to navigate the hilly terrain.


3BEST FOR

FERROEQUINOLOGISTS

The Station Agent’s House, Manchester

This year, as we celebrate the Railway200

anniversary, what better way to immerse yourself in

railway history than staying in the home of the agent

who managed the world’s first purpose-built, inter-city

passenger railway terminus. In 1830, at the dawn of

the Railway Age, Liverpool Road Station opened in the

heart of Manchester. Joseph Green was appointed as its

first Station Agent, and his house was the hub around

which the station was developed. More recently used as

offices, the Grade I Listed property has been remodelled

and furnished to evoke the spirit of the 1930s and the

golden age of steam. Late Arts and Crafts oak furniture

is enhanced by the bold use of colour in both curtains and

walls, with railway memorabilia dotted throughout the

house. Top tip: Shotgun one of the bedrooms on the top

floor, the bathroom on this level has a free-standing bath

with views of Stephenson’s viaduct and the bridges beyond.

While you’re there: Visit the Science and Industry Museum

(scienceandindustrymuseum.org.uk), down the road on the site

of the old station, which closed in 1975.

What to pack: A cloche hat or homburg to really get into the

Art Deco spirit of the property.



4BEST FOR A ROMANESQUE

HOLIDAY

The Ruin, North Yorkshire

Dramatically perched above a steep wooded

gorge, in the remnants of an outstanding 18th-century

garden at Hackfall, The Ruin is spectacularly designed

inside and out. Janus-faced (meaning it has two faces),

the Georgian folly is smoothly Gothic on its public

elevation, but far more rugged on its rear elevation with

a Romanesque, triple-domed ‘ruin’ redolent of ancient

Rome and Piranesi. Inside, there are just three rooms – a

bedroom, a sitting room and a bathroom – none of which

connect or communicate with each other, but each offers

the same, picture-perfect view across miles of Yorkshire

countryside.

While you’re there: Visit the 2025 Chelsea Flower Show

Gold-winning gardens at Newby Hall (newbyhall.com) around

a 10-minute drive away. The house is impressive too – it’s often

cited as being the inspiration for Downton Abbey thanks to

several similarities, including someone named Lord Grantham

living there in the 1800s.

What to pack: Slippers so your feet don’t get cold navigating

the stone terrace between The Ruin’s rooms at night.

From £52 per person per night


5BEST FOR A ROOM

WITH A VIEW…

Culloden Tower, North Yorkshire

There are rooms with a view and

then there are rooms with a view. From the

bright octagonal bedroom on the top of the

four-storey Culloden Tower, the panoramic

vistas across parts of the Yorkshire Dales

National Park are an astonishing scene to

wake up to. But it gets even better, because,

after you’ve made yourself a cup of morning

coffee, you can climb up to the roof, settle into

one of the striped deckchairs and watch the

nearby market town of Richmond rise from

slumber. Inside the tower – built by John Yorke

as a monument to the victory of the Duke of

Cumberland’s army over Bonnie Prince Charlie

near Inverness in April 1746 – a rich mix of

Gothic and Classical carving and plasterwork

with a modern, calming colour palate frame

the views from the living room and bedroom

while the mezzanine kitchen has a country feel

for slow breakfasts and long, sociable lunches.

While you’re there. With its situation on the

edge of the Yorkshire Dales, its proximity to the

beautiful market town of Richmond and the River

Swale within sight, it is difficult to find a more

breathtaking or convenient location in the Dales.

Visit the town’s 18th-century theatre and don’t

miss the chance to slurp a pint in the highest pub in

England – The Tan Hill Inn (tanhillinn.com).

What to pack: Binoculars to make the most of

those views.




6BEST FOR GARDEN LOVERS

Goddards, Surrey

What do you get when two of the most

influential British designers of the Arts &

Crafts movement collide? Goddards – a house built

at the turn of the 20th century as a ‘Home of Rest to

which ladies of small means might repair for holiday’.

Designed by architect Edwin Lutyens, the eight-bedroom

property, which stands on a little green approached by

deeply sunken lanes in the charming Surrey village of

Abinger Hammer, has a spectacular garden designed by

celebrated horticulturalist Gertrude Jekyll, whose influence

and enthusiasm for the vernacular architecture can be

strongly felt throughout. While considered one of the most

seriously important houses built in the Arts & Crafts style,

there’s plenty of good old-fashioned fun to be had at the

property, with croquet on the lawn and an old-fashioned

indoor bowling alley with wooden skittles.

While you’re there: Enjoy more outdoor fun at The Abinger

Hatch (theabingerhatch.co.uk) in Sutton Abinger, a traditional

independent pub where you can enjoy a game or two of

pétanque alongside traditional and hearty pub grub. If you’re

feeling fit, head up Leith Hill and enjoy views of the Surrey Hills

from atop the tower.

What to pack: A camera to capture candid shots of the family

in the picturesque gardens.


7BEST FOR A UNIQUE

HIDEAWAY

Martello Tower, Suffolk

Nearly a million bricks were used in the

construction of this Martello Tower at the foot of the

Orford Ness peninsula in Aldeburgh – the largest and

most northerly of a chain of 103 towers built to keep

Napoleon off England’s shores. Sitting right on the

beach between the River Alde and the ocean, this large,

lofty escape has an intriguing echo in the vaulted main

living space, where you can hide away from the elements

beside the wood burner.

Up on the rooftop, the stone-flagged battery with

mountings of guns and a high, thick parapet for shelter,

is the perfect spot to eat a fish and chip supper as

the waves crash about below. You will need to be a

little familiar with the guests you choose to stay with;

however, the bedrooms, while screened from the central

living area, are not fully divided.

While you’re there: Take a short walk along the beach to

Aldeburgh, buy a pot of fresh whelks or shrimp from one

of the fishermen’s huts along the way and pick a spot near

the iconic giant Scallop sculpture, a tribute to the composer

Benjamin Britten, who spent much of his life in this area, that

rises from the shingle.

What to pack: A bathing suit for an invigorating morning swim.




8BEST FOR AN ISOLATED

ESCAPE

Whiteford Temple, Tamar

It’s somewhat hard to believe that this temple,

which was gifted to the Landmark Trust by The Duchy

of Cornwall, was once used as a cattle shed with a

corrugated roof and earth floor. Whiteford Temple was

built in 1799 for Sir John Call, a military engineer who

had made a fortune in India, to adorn the landscape

of his mansion near Callington in the east of Cornwall.

However, when the mansion was largely demolished in

1913, the remains were used for agricultural purposes.

Now resurrected to its former glory, the temple, which

sits above the Tamar estuary and offers incredible views

across the surrounding countryside, is flooded with light

during the day thanks to three glazed arches. By night,

the property, with its open fire and distinct remoteness,

transforms into a cosy retreat for two.

While you’re there: Climb Kit Hill, the highest point in

the Tamar Valley, for even better views over southeast

Cornwall and pop across the border into Devon for an

afternoon exploring the National Trust’s Buckland Abbey,

once home to seafarers Sir Richard Grenville and Sir

Francis Drake.

What to pack: Cosy layers for watching the sun go down

from the temple lawn.

From £30 per person per night

9BEST FOR A STATELY STAY

Auchinleck House, Ayrshire

If your idea of a great holiday is getting dressed

for dinner and retiring to the library to watch

the sunset over a digestive, Auchinleck House, with its

extensive 500 acres of grounds, gives off real Bridgerton

vibes. According to biographer James Boswell’s Book of

Company and Liquors, the grand neo-classical Georgian

villa was host to much ‘social glee’ after he inherited the

property from his father, Lord Auchinleck. You can only

imagine the stories the walls of the elaborately plastered

dining room might tell if they could talk; similarly, in the

library, where Boswell and mentor Dr. Samuel Johnson

would argue with Lord Auchinleck over politics. Head out

into the gardens to promenade or go on a hunt around

the estate to find the mystical grotto, ice cave and the

cascading waterfall on the picturesque banks of the River

Arran.

While you’re there: Meander the nearby village of Ochiltree

– one of the oldest in East Ayrshire – and its charming

thoroughfare of single-storey cottages. Long considered one

of Britain’s most significant architectural jewels and part of The

King’s Foundation, Dumfries House (dumfries-house.org.uk)

sits just five miles away from Auchinleck, where you can marvel

at its unrivalled collection of Chippendale furniture.

What to pack: A cocktail dress for dinner.

From £19.69 per person, per night

IMAGES © NIGEL FORSTER PHOTOGRAPHY FOR LANDMARK TRUST / JILL TATE / JOHN MILLER / DAVID KIRKHAM


10

BEST

FOR A SEASIDE

TOWN BREAK

The Mayor’s Parlour, Dover

When Dover’s Maison Dieu began life

as a monastery around 1200, it offered ‘hospitality for

all strangers’, chiefly pilgrims travelling to Canterbury

Cathedral to visit the shrine of Thomas Becket. For

the past 160 or so years, it has had a more civic use as

Dover’s Town Hall, and just this year, the Mayor’s Parlour

was unveiled as The Landmark Trust’s latest project,

with space for six guests to experience living in spaces

conceived as privy rooms by architect and designer

William Burges in the late 1800s. Eat dinner around the

original council table and chairs in the main parlour, after

it has been prepared in the Magistrates’ Retiring Room

behind, now a kitchen with its walls sprinkled with daisies.

A private staircase, with views across an internal Gothic

court, leads to three bedrooms, while the bathrooms were

formerly Minute Rooms, where clerks once kept the town’s

records

While you’re there: Head inland to Canterbury Cathedral,

as the pilgrims who took refuge at Maison Dieu would have

all those centuries ago. Or keep it hyper local and check out

Dover’s striking Samphire Hoe Nature Reserve with its walks

and views across the English Channel.

What to pack: A picnic blanket for picky-bit lunches by the

White Cliffs.

From £19.88 per person per night.



Coastal

CRAVINGS

Long admired for its

staggering natural beauty,

Cornwall is now just as

celebrated for its thriving

food scene. British Travel

Journal heads to the north

coast for a taste of what’s

on offer, and discovers a

region that’s redefining

coastal cuisine

Cornwall’s dramatic landscapes have long captivated

the soul, and now – whether you prefer Michelinstarred

finesse or impeccably sourced simplicity – its

kitchens are equally captivating the palate. With

dramatic cliffs, golden beaches, and picturesque harbour

towns, the county’s north coast is home to a remarkable

concentration of talented chefs, bakers, cocktail makers, and

more, each offering something distinctly worth sitting down

for, as I discovered…

My first port of call was Port Isaac, the postcard-perfect

fishing village where revered seafood chef Nathan Outlaw

has two critically acclaimed restaurants and a lovely guest

house overlooking the sea. At the latter, I was greeted warmly

by Stephanie and Rachel (Nathan’s wife), who immediately

plied me with an array of homemade treats, including a thirstquenching

cocktail made with herb-infused vodka, elderflower



‘Quality and sustainability are a (genuine) priority here, with dishes shaped exclusively

by that day’s catch. A creative and well-designed set menu is served amongst

characterful low ceilings and wonky windows which frame the harbour views perfectly’

cordial, fresh lime and local apple juice, and a heaven-sent

‘jammy dodger’, made by Nathan and Rachel’s daughter,

Jessica – an incredibly talented pastry chef.

After a crisp glass of Camel Valley’s excellent Cornish

fizz, I strolled through the village down to the picturesque

harbour. Here, in prime position, sits Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen

– a picture-perfect 15th century fishermen’s cottage that the

chef has transformed into his relaxed (but one-Michelinstar)

seafood restaurant.

Quality and sustainability are a (genuine) priority here,

with dishes shaped exclusively by that day’s catch. A creative

and well-designed set menu is served amongst characterful

low ceilings and wonky windows which frame the harbour

views perfectly. Carefully crafted small plates arrived first

– soft, meaty mackerel swimming in salty soy, ginger and

sesame; perfectly crisp cuttlefish and red pepper fritters;

and a sensational Port Isaac lobster dumpling, plump and

succulent, sat in a broth delicately laced with chilli and

orange. Mains depend entirely on what’s been landed that

day; I opted for the sweet and juicy local lobster, cooked

simply with garlic and herbs, and served with local potatoes

and fat spears of grassy asparagus. It was perfect, as was

the zesty organic Valencian white – a brilliant suggestion

from Emma, the restaurant’s friendly manager. After a thick,

silky-smooth mango cream bursting with tropical flavour, I

emerged out on to the star-lit harbour and made the short,

sleepy stroll to bed.

Breakfast at Outlaw’s Guest House is another

gastronomic affair. There’s a concise buffet and elevated

cooked options (think smoked local trout with herby

scrambled eggs, and porridge with Cornish clotted cream

and compote) but the star of the show was another of

Jessica’s carb-filled creations – this time a perfectly squidgy,

softly spiced cinnamon bun.


I spent the day pounding the coast path and made it

back to Port Isaac just in time for a pint at The Golden Lion

as the local choir began their shanties (the world-famous

Fisherman’s Friends hail from the village). My dinner that

evening was at Outlaw’s New Road – the chef’s refined yet

relaxed dining experience, where more Michelin-starred skill

meets sweeping sea views.

The 7–10 course tasting menu is a testament to Outlaw’s

mastery of British seafood – a precise, elegantly paced

journey that balances bold coastal flavours with understated

finesse. Nothing quite rivals the buttery freshness of raw

scallop, bass, and brill, lightly cured in white wine, and then

topped with fresh sweet peas and mint. A chunky lobster

fritter with rich lobster sauce – lifted by a crisp squid ink

crumb, fragrant basil oil and a hint of zesty orange – almost

brought a tear to my eye.

As I finished with some soft-yet-chewy apple and

cinnamon amaretti, two dolphins danced through the waves

just beyond the window, as if timed to the final bite. Was I

dreaming? Quite possibly…


The following morning, armed with another cinnamon

roll to-go, I made a beeline for Harlyn Bay – a wide and

sheltered beach just west of Padstow. Nestled behind its

golden sands sits THE PIG – a laid-back yet luxurious hotel

well-known for its epicurean delights. Its Lobster Shack

delivers exactly what its name promises – and does so

deliciously. Inside, within a cosy, rustic, candlelit restaurant,

head chef Tom Holloway skilfully delivers a hearty ‘25-

mile menu’ using plot-to-plate produce harvested from

the hotel’s kitchen garden alongside other strictly local

ingredients. Moreish ‘Piggy bits’ such as chorizo and gouda

fritters, crispy kale, and smoked pollock roe dip are all

enticingly presented on vintage crockery scattered with

petals. A juicy, perfectly charred monkfish tail accompanied

by a rainbow chard, fennel and lobster sauce arrived next –

rich and salty but perfectly balanced with herby freshness.

Pudding was a huge Baked Alaska for two (I did share, I

promise) – a glorious, decadent muddle of marshmallow-y

meringue, thick vanilla ice cream, and a boozy blackberry

purée. I rolled into bed like a pig in the proverbial.

After a morning walk along the beach followed by THE

PIG’s famously abundant breakfast, I set my greedy sights

on Rock, which sits on the shores of the Camel Estuary

almost directly opposite Padstow (the two are connected by

a speedy ferry).

Paul Ainsworth is another of North Cornwall’s

heavyweight chefs; he has several restaurants on both sides of

the estuary and has recently acquired Rock’s only hotel – The

St Enodoc. I popped into his lively gastropub, The Mariners,

for a quick G&T before heading down the beach to Four

Boys for dinner. Overlooking the estuary, this relaxed and


‘...don’t leave Cornwall without sampling one of Sabzi’s legendary cinnamon

and tahini buns – a perfect blend of spice, sweetness, and sticky indulgence’

understated spot serves up delicious small plates — think

monkfish crudo with tangy green tomato dressing, megrim

sole bathed in brown butter and capers, and a rich and

comforting fish soup. Fresh, handmade pasta is another

speciality; I had a huge bowl of beautiful, buttery farfalle,

laden with Cornish crab, chili, garlic and lemon.

The following day, Padstow beckoned. With the

mouth-watering aroma of freshly baked pasties filling the

air, this picturesque fishing port is truly a foodie paradise.

I popped into Sabzi, a modern Middle Eastern deli

founded by Masterchef quarterfinalist Kate Attlee. Now

dotted across the county, Kate’s stylish emerald-green delis

offer an array of vibrant flavours inspired by her Iranian-

British heritage, via a menu of bountiful breakfasts,

crunchy salads and hearty dahls that change every day.

I relished every zingy, herb-laced mouthful of my

kaleidoscopic plate, piled high with rosemary-roasted

local potatoes with Caesar dressing, Parmesan and sweet

pink pickles, and crunchy green vegetables covered in a

whipped green tahini dressing and citrussy sumac.

Whatever you do, don’t leave Cornwall without

sampling one of Sabzi’s legendary cinnamon and tahini

buns – a perfect blend of spice, sweetness, and sticky

indulgence.


Craving a cocktail, I headed for CiCi’s – Ainsworth’s

chic and intimate cocktail bar which sits in a handsome

Georgian townhouse on the floor above his Michelinstarred

restaurant, No6. Seated by the window overlooking

one of Padstow’s winding streets, I watched as talented bar

manager, Tyler, crafted an array of exceptional cocktails.

A highlight was ‘Who Dares Wins’, a refreshing and

theatrically frothy mixture of gin, buttermilk, yuzu, soda

water and more. It was the perfect pairing for the bar’s

selection of sophisticated pintxos; cave-aged Manchego

drizzled in chestnut honey with herb-laced crackers; buttery

slices of acorn-fed Jamon Iberico; and a heavenly cheese

scone served with rich, gorse-yellow butter, made in-house.

The warm and caramelly brown butter financiers with Pedro

Ximenez sherry jelly, whimsically presented on a merry-goround,

were an unforgettable finale.

Of course, this bustling harbour town is also known as

‘Padstein’ – a nod to celebrity chef Rick Stein who famously

founded his foodie empire here half a century ago. Today,

the Stein family own several local restaurants, a café, shops

and more, but the story first began back in 1974 when Rick

and his first wife, Jill, opened a night club in the heart of

town. Their initial venture was short-lived, thanks in part

to the challenge of managing a boisterous crowd of burly

fishermen. Undeterred, in 1975 they reinvented the space as

a seafood bistro and the rest, as they say, is history.

Today it’s known simply as The Seafood Restaurant –

although everything about it feels quietly special. A sense of

deep contentment settled over me as I passed the sculpture of

Rick’s beloved late Jack Russell, Chalky, and entered beneath

IMAGES © PORT ISAAC - ADOBE STOCK / MICHAEL CHARLES / SHUTTERSTOCK / STEPHEN BRIDGER / OUTLAW’S GUEST HOUSE - KATE WHITAKER / THE PIG - JAKE EASTHAM / CICI’S - WE THE FOOD SNOBS / THE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT -

JAMES RAM / SAM HARRIS / PADSTOW HARBOUR - SHUTTERSTOCK / ST EDMUND’S HOUSE / REBECCA HOPE / PLUM COTTAGE - WILL SLATER / PLONK’D - EDWARD JOSE


‘...This glittering restaurant exudes understated elegance, perfectly paired with

a warm, buzzing atmosphere that’s impossible to resist, and a joy to be part of.’

a chandelier of swirling porcelain fish. On a Monday evening,

the place was packed—lively with chatter, the clink of glasses,

and the unmistakable shake of cocktails. The walls are

covered in eclectic artwork that Rick and Jill have collected

over the years, whilst a glistening central bar, adorned with

colourful coral and glowing lighthouses, draws you in.

Dozens of smiling staff glide through the expansive,

thoughtfully designed space, trays piled high with fruits de

mer, pausing to chat with guests like they have all the time

in the world. This glittering restaurant exudes understated

elegance, perfectly paired with a warm, buzzing atmosphere

that’s impossible to resist, and a joy to be part of.

The Stein family remain proudly hands-on and have

nurtured a skilful and caring team who know how to make

feel guests happy and relaxed. And as for the food - buttery

sashimi paired with silky sake; a pile of hot shellfish steamed

and then doused in chilli, garlic and smooth olive oil; the

freshest turbot served simply with good hollandaise, and

perfect profiteroles slathered in warm chocolate sauce.

All this plus a truly excellent kumquat and mezcal sour

and a bottle of Stein’s delicious white Burgundy. I don’t

use the word iconic lightly, but in the case of The Seafood

Restaurant it feels entirely fitting.

Breakfast there is another veritable feast: chunky

granola, delicately spiced kedgeree, and sweet, freshly

squeezed orange juice.

Full to the brim once more, I set off for a day of exploring

– but like a fish on a line, I found myself gravitating back

to ‘The Seafood’. I made my way up on to restaurant’s

impressive terrace, far from the madding crowds, and

slipped into a seat with glorious views across the estuary.

A bottle of Stein’s Blanc de Blancs was promptly popped,

accompanied by a few light nibbles. A seagull made a

swoop for one of my juicy Kalamata olives, and who could

blame him? In North Cornwall, the delicious temptations

are everywhere, and they are all utterly irresistible.



WHERE to stay

From luxurious hotel rooms to

characterful cottages, these are

North Cornwall’s finest places to

stay, where coastal charm meets

contemporary comfort

1 THE PIG-AT HARLYN BAY

Housed in the 15th-century Harlyn

House—a beautiful building steeped in

history and atmosphere—this laid-back

yet luxurious hotel is filled with stormy

seascapes, roaring fires, and character

at every turn. Just moments from the

beach, 26 beautiful bedrooms blend

deep comfort with quirky charm, some

with far-reaching sea views. There are

also four cosy shepherd’s huts dotted

around the gardens.

From £295 room only; thepighotel.

com/at-harlyn-bay

1

5

2 4

3

6

2 PLUM COTTAGE

In the heart of Padstow, this beautifully restored Grade IIlisted

cottage has wow factor interiors and a palpable sense

of cosiness. Sleeping four across two sumptuous bedrooms,

it’s a masterclass in maximalist style. A carefully curated

mix of patterned wallpapers, rich textures, eclectic art, and

antique furniture, while soft lighting, an open fireplace,

panelled walls, and brimming bookshelves make it feel

irresistibly charming.

From £600 for a three-night stay; atlantatrevonebay.com


3 ST EDMUNDS HOUSE

Of all the accommodation that Rick

Stein offers in and around Padstow,

none charm quite like St Edmund’s

House. Hidden in the heart of town,

this tranquil hideaway, with its

beautifully landscaped gardens and

trickling fountains, feels like a wellkept

secret. The six New Englandinspired

bedrooms feel effortlessly

chic and palpably serene, with

sleek four-poster beds and deep

freestanding tubs. Downstairs

rooms spill out onto private terraces,

while those upstairs come with

Juliette balconies and expansive

views of the Camel Estuary.

From £380; rickstein.com

4 2 QUAY COTTAGES

Perched on the serene shores of the Camel Estuary

where sailboats bob with the tide, this staggeringly

luxurious self-catering cottage is one of Rock’s bestkept

secrets. With picture-perfect views from every

window, it blends sumptuous comfort with colour,

pattern and timeless elegance. Sleeping up to ten

across five stylish bedrooms, highlights include a

spacious kitchen, a snug sitting room with woodburning

stove, and a master bathroom with a huge

roll-top tub.

From £1950 for 7 nights; latitude50.co.uk

5 OUTLAW’S GUEST HOUSE

With just nine simply furnished, comfy bedrooms (some with

sea view balconies), this thoughtfully renovated Victorian

guest house has sweeping views across Port Isaac Bay. Run by a

genuinely warm and welcoming team, it feels more like staying

with friends than at a hotel. Guests are treated to delicious daily

bakes, while breakfast is crafted with the same skill and attention

to detail found in Outlaw’s excellent nearby restaurants. From

£195 B&B. 2- and 3- night ‘Foodie Getaway’ packages also available;

outlaws.co.uk//outlaws-guest-house

6 BODMIN JAIL HOTEL

Further afield, moving inland from the north coast, lies a very

different kind of hotel experience. Book the luxurious ‘Governor’s

Experience’ at Bodmin Jail Hotel and you’ll spend the night in

this former 18th-century prison on the edge of Bodmin Moor,

enjoying a private historian-led tour and a seven-course banquet,

followed by a paranormal guide as darkness falls. Alternatively,

opt for something that no other hotel in Cornwall can offer, the

‘Prisoner Experience’ and ‘do some time’ in a plush cell.

From £195 for an overnight stay; bodminjailhotel.com


EXTRA bites

Where freshly caught seafood and culinary

creativity meets coastal flavour

PRAWN ON THE LAWN

This popular Padstow restaurant serves

fresh seafood and flavour-packed small

plates with a sense of fun. The menu

changes daily and the space is small, so

book ahead. Just down the road, its sister

spot, Little Prawn, serves a similar menu.

prawnonthelawn.com

THE ROCKET STORE

This tiny bar/restaurant in Boscastle

Harbour serves fresh seafood from its own

boat, meat from its own farm alongside

other top notch local ingredients.

therocketstore.co.uk

CAMEL VALLEY VINEYARD

Pop in for a tour and tasting or simply

enjoy a glass—or two—of Camel Valley’s

exceptional Cornish overlooking the vines.

The best way to get there is to cycle along

The Camel Trail.

camelvalley.com

ST KEW INN

A picture-perfect 15th-century inn not far

from Port Isaac. Brimming with character

and charm, it serves well-kept beer and

excellent food.

stkewinn.co.uk

PRIDEAUX WALLED GARDEN

Don’t miss the small plates, natural wines

and exceptionally delicious cakes served in

this beautiful walled garden and cosy café

hidden away in the heart of Padstow.

prideauxwalledgarden.co.uk

ELECTRIC BAKERY

This popular artisan bakery in Bude

sells superb sourdough bread, pastries,

seasonal food and speciality coffee (take

away only). Get there early.

electricbakery.co

STEIN’S FISH AND CHIPS

Stein’s, located by the quay in Padstow,

serves some of the very best fish and chips

in the UK.

rickstein.com

FEE’S FOOD

This sophisticated café / deli in Rock is

brimming with freshly made food, tasty

freezer meals and trendy store cupboard

essentials.

feesfood.co.uk

ST KEW FARMSHOP

This well-stocked and well-designed farm

shop is also home to a beautifully curated

lifestyle and plant store and a modern

café that serves flavoursome breakfasts,

lunches and cakes.

stkewfarmshop.co.uk

BARNABY’S

Nestled within Trevibban Mill vineyard

near Padstow, Barnaby’s - sister

restaurant to Prawn on the Lawn - serves

similar seasonal small plates but with

more meat and Middle Eastern flavours.

prawnonthelawn.com

PLONK’D

This fun and friendly independent

bar in Wadebridge takes its cue from

the vibrant bars of Northern Spain,

specialising in interesting wines, tasty

pintxos, and delicious cocktails.

plonkd.co.uk

LITTLE EARS

This lovely little neighbourhood

restaurant in Newquay specialises in

fresh pasta, Mediterranean-inspired

dishes, and homemade seasonal gelato.

littleearspasta.com

PADSTOW KITCHEN GARDEN

Field-to-fork feasts, cookery courses

and fresh produce, nurtured by 7th

generation farmer and former Rick Stein

head chef, Ross Geach. The lobster

lunches are incredible.

padstowkitchengarden.co.uk

COUNTER CULTURE

Creative small plates and pintxos combine

bold flavour with locally sourced produce

at this award-winning San Sebastiáninspired

bar and restaurant in Newquay.

pintxocornwall.co.uk


If you are visiting Cornwall...

BOOK NOW

History

Luxury

... you must experience a night at the

most notorious hotel in the county!

www.bodminjailhotel.com | 01208 822822 | reception@bodminjailhotel.com

Experience

POLZEATH | ROCK | DAYMER BAY

thepointholidays.co.uk stay@thepointholidays.co.uk +44 (0) 1208 869430

COTTAGEcore

As the nights draw in, British Travel Journal discovers some of the UK’s cosiest

cottages, perfectly primed for seasonal adventures and snug evenings by the fire...


1BEST FOR PEACE AND

SECLUSION

Granary Cottage at Ennys, West

Cornwall

If you’re looking for a restorative winter

getaway, make a beeline for Ennys. Set in

20 acres of wild pasture and beautifully kept

gardens (which guests are welcome to enjoy,

along with the beautiful outdoor swimming

pool and an enchanting woodland trail),

this secluded Georgian manor farm has four

cosy cottages carefully converted from the

former granary and dairy. Granary Cottage

is a snug and chicly furnished hideaway for

two. You’ll arrive to fresh scones, birdsong,

and beautifully arranged flowers from the

garden, courtesy of friendly owner, Karen.

The beamed sitting room has a wood burner

and large sofa at its heart, and sits alongside

a smart fitted kitchen, small dining area,

and French doors that lead out on to a pretty

private terrace. Upstairs, the vintage Frenchinspired

bedroom is irresistibly romantic,

with exposed beams, a high ceiling and

double aspect windows, as well as luxuries

like French bed linen, waffle bath robes and

a super king-sized bed. The bathroom has a

spacious walk-in shower and glorious views

over the beautifully landscaped gardens and

Peter Rabbit-esque greenhouse beyond.

You’re in prime position for exploring the

many wonders of West Cornwall – you’ll find

Penzance, St Ives, Prussia Cove and so much

more nearby, but you may well find it hard to

tear yourself away from the deep peace and

seclusion of Ennys.

From £142 per night, minimum 3 nights;

ennys.co.uk


2BEST FOR WELLNESS WOW

FACTOR

Blockhouse Cottage, Tresco

With most properties on Tresco

closed over the winter months, Blockhouse

Cottage offer a rare opportunity to experience

this beautiful island off season. Nestled below

its iconic namesake and above the sweeping

sands of Green Porth, this wow factor,

wellness-led property boats an unbeatable

location and awe-inspiring sea views. It

has all the cosiness of a cottage combined

with stunning contemporary interior design

and enough bedrooms and living space to

comfortably accommodate 14 people, making

it perfectly pitched for a group gateway.

Reflecting the coastal surroundings, sleek

interiors feature natural materials such as

limestone and wood, while other rooms have

ferns, coral wallpaper, and custom-made shell

mirrors. Ideally positioned for storm watching,

guests can keep cosy by the lovely open log

fire, or warm up even further in the plush

property’s very own state-of-the-art sauna

and steam room. There’s also a private yoga

and Reformer Pilates studio tucked away in

the garden, and endless top-spec mod-cons

including a Bertazzoni oven, a 65” 4K TV,

Sonos sounds system, steam showers and

more. And outside, you’ll find that you have

Tresco almost entirely to yourself…

From £6,065 per week; tresco.co.uk


3BEST FOR FAIRYTALE FEELS

Philham Water Cottage, Devon

If you were to imagine a

quintessential fairy-tale cottage, it

might look a lot like Philham Water Cottage.

Nestled beside a babbling brook in Devon’s

spectacular Hartland Peninsula, this utterly

charming one-up, one-down was built in the

15th century and is rumoured to be the oldest

cottage of its kind in the county. With its cute

thatched roof blending seamlessly into the

unspoilt landscape, the cottage has pretty,

relaxed gardens both front and back. Its

interiors are similarly charming - a well-worn

velvet armchair and squishy sofa surround

the ancient fireplace; there’s a well-equipped

kitchen and bathroom (both practical, not

posh), and you’ll be snug as a bug in the

light and airy double bedroom with its cosy,

quilted bed. The secluded setting makes

Philham Water Cottage a perfect countryside

hideaway, but if you did want to explore the

local area, craggy coastline, terrific walks and

the charming villages of Hartland and Clovelly

are all nearby…

From £99 per night; sawdays.co.uk

4BEST FOR A HISTORIC

GRANDEUR

The Treasury, Norfolk

Designed by Thomas Ripley, this

Grade II listed ground floor cottage offers

a deep sense of both history and luxury

from the minute you cross its handsome

threshold. Sat on the private 150-acre estate

of Wolterton Park and forming the south

side of the entrance lodges, The Treasury is

named after the origins of the building - it was

once used as a secure location for funds and

accounts managed by Lord Walpole and his

butler. Today, it’s a romantic retreat for two

complete with period furnishings, Persian

carpets, tapestries and artwork. There is a

chic kitchen, cosy bedroom and an elegant

sitting room with an open fireplace, but the

jewel in The Treasury’s crown is its beautifully

designed bathroom with vaulted ceiling,

exposed brickwork and a cast iron bath.

Guests are welcome to explore the estate

during their stay; Wolterton Park offers endless

walks as well as canoeing on the lake, horse

riding, archery and clay pigeon shooting all

on-site, whilst the North Norfolk coast is just

six miles away. However, if you’d prefer to stay

ensconced in your historic hideaway, beauty

treatments and the services of a private chef

can be arranged

From £896 for a short break and £1,194 per

week; ruralretreats.co.uk


5BEST FOR CONTEMPORARY COOL

The Barrels, St Agnes, Cornwall

Tucked into the cliff-side high above

Trevaunance Cove, The Barrels blends

wow factor modern architecture and inspiring

design with all the cosiness and charm of a Cornish

seaside cottage. The result is a one-of-a-kind

holiday home that can accommodate 10 guests

across three floors, five beautiful bedrooms and

four bathrooms. Behind the original stone facade

of the former miners’ cottages, the spectacular

use of light and space is emphasised by full height

ceilings, vast glass windows and the merging of old

and new as sandy stone walls meet an impressive

poured concrete stairway. There’s a serene open

plan living, dining and kitchen space with views

of the sea and coastline, a private gym and yoga

studio, spacious games room and a surround

sound cinema room – perfect for cosy movie nights.

Outside, beautifully landscaped gardens have two

generous terraces and a 6-seater cedar hot tub – a

huge pleasure, whatever the weather. Nearby you’ll

find the lovely village of St Agnes and moments

from the door is Trevaunance Cove - a beautiful

sandy beach with stunning walks in both directions.

From £3,525 per week; cornishgems.com

6BEST FOR NOSTALGIC

ADVENTURES

Coed y Bleiddiau, Gwynedd

How do you like the sound of arriving

at your picture-perfect cottage by steam train?

Well at Coed y Bleiddiau, you can. Set within

the breathtaking scenery of the Eryri National

Park, this small railway cottage sits at a remote

private halt on the restored Ffestiniog Railway

and has its own private platform from which

guests can alight. Coed y Bleiddiau – meaning

‘Wood of the Wolves’ – was built in 1863 for local

railway superintendent, T. Henry Hovenden,

from Welsh slate and granite. Hunkering low into

the mountain slope with woodland all around, it

offers up wonderful birdwatching opportunities.

This cute cottage’s low eaves and thick walls

were built for snugness; two cosy bedrooms sleep

four in total, along with a bathroom, charming

kitchen and a comfy sitting room with a wood

burning stove. Outside, you can explore the

stunning local landscape on what is considered

one of the most scenic railways in Britain. Catch

the train, from right outside your doorstep,

to the harbour in Porthmadog, regarded the

gateway to Snowdonia, and switch to its sister

line, the Welsh Highland Railway, which travels

to Caernarfon across the foothills of Snowdon.

Or, if you’d prefer to travel on foot, the cottage

sits at the heart of over 30km of footpaths on the

Dyffryn Maentwrog and Llyn Mair network, which

includes the enchanting lake Llyn Mair.

From £504 for a mid-week break;

landmarktrust.org.uk


7BEST FOR HOTEL LUXURY

Forest Cottages, Lime Wood, the New

Forest

If you like the idea of a secluded selfcatering

spot that comes with all the convenience

of a five-star hotel, then look no further. Nestled

in the heart of the New Forest, luxury country

house hotel Lime Wood has two Forest Cottages

tucked away in its green and pleasant grounds.

Surrounded by forest and meadows, each one

contains a kitchenette (complete with a Smeg

fridge stuffed with goodies, and freshly baked

bread left each day), and a dining and living area

with a snug log fire. Upstairs there’s a chic master

bedroom with king sized bed and a bathroom

with a freestanding bath and double monsoon

shower. Cottage 1 has a downstairs twin bedroom

and Cottage 2 has an upstairs bunk bedroom,

and both have an additional bathroom. Rustic

yet sophisticated with stripped oak floors and

luxurious details, these two cosy cottages (which

can be interconnected making them perfect for

larger families or groups) are totally private, but

with Lime Wood’s fabulous facilities, which include

a stunning spa and restaurant by renowned chef

Angela Hartnett and Lime Wood’s Luke Holder,

just a short walk away. It’s the best of both worlds.

From £1,400 per night; limewoodhotel.co.uk/

rooms/forest-cottages-cabin

8BEST FOR COTSWOLDS CHARM

Home Farm House, Barnsley

Laid back yet luxurious hotel group

THE PIG opened its latest venture

in 2024. The PIG-in The Cotswolds has its

very own village pub just a short stroll away,

as well as a brand-new cottage that couldn’t

be cosier. Nestled in the picture-perfect village

of Barnsley, complete with honey-coloured

houses and rambling roses that frame Farrow

& Ball’d front doors, Home Farm House is a

traditional Cotswold stone cottage with plenty

of farmhouse charm combined with the unique

style and luxurious attention to detail that THE

PIG is known for. There are three cosy, elegant

bedrooms, a fully equipped kitchen, snug

sitting room, a characterful dining room with

log burner, games room, and a small private

garden. All you need, and more. It’s just a short

stroll from the both The Village Pub and the

hotel (which has a fabulous restaurant, glorious

gardens and a small spa offering), and guests

are welcome to spend time at either. Plus, the

market town of Cirencester and Cotswolds

hotspots Bibury, Burford and Bourton-on-thewater

are all nearby, making this chocolate

box cottage a perfect base for exploring this

famously beautiful part of the world.

From £595 per night (2-night minimum stay),

book via The Village Pub; thevillagepub.co.uk

IMAGES © FOREST COTTAGES - JAKE EASTHAM / HANSA - DAVID CURRAN FOR UNIQUE HOMESTAYS / COORIE - MATTHEW HERITAGE FOR BOUTIQUE RETREATS


9BEST FOR GOTHIC ROMANCE

Hansa, Shropshire

Set in complete seclusion within

the 12,000-acre Bradford Estates,

Hansa is a luxurious off-grid getaway lifted

straight from the pages of a fantasy novel.

Sat on the Shropshire-Staffordshire border,

this Victorian gothic cottage was originally

built to host the Earl of Bradford’s fishing and

shooting luncheons. Since then, it has been

lovingly restored to celebrate its fairytale

otherworldliness and showcase the beauty of

its setting. Today, an ivy-entwined chandelier

hangs from the upper beams, casting a

gentle glow around Hansa’s original 1856

panelled walls.

This is an open-plan cottage in studio

style, with the beautiful sleeping and living

spaces combined. Outside, there is more

magic to be found; a small wooden gate

leads to a boardwalk and your very own

rowing boat, bobbing on a beautiful lake.

Behind the cottage, a woodfired hot tub

awaits, ready to be fired up whatever the

weather. Other lovely touches include a

welcome hamper filled with local treats,

marshmallows for the fire, two vintage-style

bicycles, and his-and-hers Hunter wellington

boots, but the greatest luxury of them all is

Hansa’s unique beauty.

From £1,095 for a short break, £1,450 per

week; uniquehomestays.com

10

BEST FOR A

WILDERNESS ESCAPE

Coorie, Wester Ross

In the northwest of the

Scottish Highlands, Wester Ross is a region

known for its dramatic mountains, rugged

coastline, and beautiful sea lochs. Nestled

between Achnasheen and Achanalt, Coorie

is a remote wilderness escape where your only

neighbours are the local birds and occasional

wild stag. Blending rustic charm with stylish

and serene muted tones throughout, every

window offers postcard-worthy views across

the surrounding mountains. There’s a chic and

cosy living room with a roaring wood burning

stove, a modern kitchen and dining space, and

three beautiful bedrooms, whilst outside there’s

a firepit to keep you warm whilst star gazing.

Whether you’re looking to hunker down,

embrace the beauty of the nearby River Bran,

or find a central base from which to explore

the Highlands, Skye and the NC500, this

luxury retreat for six beckons for a restorative

staycation immersed in nature.

From £952 for a long weekend or mid-week

break; boutique-retreats.co.uk


CROSSWORD COMPETITION

Clues & Reviews

Enjoy our crossword puzzle about some of the

places we love and have featured in this edition!

Travel-inspired

Christmas gifts

If you’re dreaming

of wintry adventures

and next year’s

holiday plans, it’s

likely that everyone

on your festive gift

list is, too. So, we’ve

pulled together a few

stylish accessories for

the travel enthusiasts

in your life

Text by Amy Bonifas

1. Old-school cool

Nothing says vintage like this

centenary 4-wheel carry-on (you can

even engrave your beloved’s initials

onto the leather), £1,695,

globe-trotter.com

2. Paper trail

Joy travel journal, with space to

record favourite memories and write

highlights, £29, papier.com

3. Jet-set jotter

Elevate your journal writing experience

with this gorgeous Wiggle Top

ballpoint pen, £12, paper.com

4. Point and click

For creative types, this Fujifilm Instax

Mini Evo camera creates instant

physical retro-style pics, and digital

images, £174, johnlewis.com

5. And so to bed

We love this lavender pillow spray made

with 100% naturally derived ingredients,

£18, bramleyproducts.co.uk

6. Primus Trail Flow

Impress even the most discerning

off-road runners with these new

Vivobarefoot lightweight trail shoes,

made with a 100% recycled breathable

mesh upper, £150, vivobarefoot.com/uk

ACROSS

1 “Little” Newquay restaurant (4)

4 Organic Cotswold farm shop (10)

9 Winchester and Southampton

river (6)

10 Amazonian crusher (8)

11 “King of the road” (5)

12 Fish with whiplike tails (9)

14 Old Spanish gold coin (8)

17 Carless Channel Island (4)

20 Depression fighter (1,1,1,1)

21 Thingamajigs (8)

23 Made the point (3,6)

26 Reliable information (5)

29 Prawn on the Lawn’s Padstow

restaurant (8)

30 Welsh hamlet known for mineral

water (2,4)

31 Roman emperor who persecuted

Christians (10)

32 Four ---, Rock, where girls can

eat, too (4)

DOWN

2 Waiting areas (9)

3 Cambridgeshire town notorious

for a rail disaster and two child

murders (5)

4 Low sandhill (4)

5 Dough raiser (5)

6 One who loved Lancelot (6)

7 Recliner parts (9)

8 --- Hall, North Yorkshire boutique

hotel (5)

13 Glen ---, Lochaber nature reserve (3)

15 --- Explorer, luxury sleeper train (9)

16 Forest containing the Rufus

Stone (3)

18 Sussex wine estate (9)

19 Three-legged island? (3)

22 Fit for ploughing (6)

24 Congolese animal with striped

legs (5)

25 Japanese fish dish (5)

27 Stevie Wonder speciality (1,3,1)

28 College or mess (4)

For a chance to win a prize send a picture of your completed crossword, or

email a list of the answers; crossword@britishtraveljournal.com

BRANDS

we love

ANSWERS TO OUR SUMMER 2025 CROSSWORD

Across: 9 One and all, 10 Fidra, 11 Macrame, 12 Glen noe, 13 Harry’s,

14 Red meat, 17 Rugby, 18 Cat, 19 Miaow, 20 Gas jets, 22 Slough, 24

Obliged, 27 Enlarge, 28 Stein, 29 Cricketer.

Down: 1 Louma, 2 Sea changes, 3 Unfairly, 4 Haversacks, 5 Flag,

6 Ifield, 7 Eden, 8 Hadestown, 14 Rotisserie, 15 Exaggerate, 16

Brighouse, 19 Moonlike, 21 Egging, 23 Merry, 25 Leer, 26 Duc.


Luxury Spaces

Extraordinary Experiences

Exclusive to Cornish Gems

Bruar Quilt Jackets, shot on location at The Torridon Hotel on Scotland’s West Coast.

Request our new Autumn/Winter catalogue by calling 01796 483236 or visit

WWW.HOUSEOFBRUAR.COM

British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter 2025

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British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter 2025

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