November 2025

www.romeing.it

THIS ISSUE

FOCUS ON PIGNETO

WHERE TO LIVE (AND STAY) IN ROME (PART 2)

TEATRO DELL’OPERA 2025-26 SEASON

ROME LGBTQ+ NEIGHBOURHOOD GUIDE

YOUR ULTIMATE GUIDE TO ROME’S CULTURAL SCENE, EVENTS, AND LIFESTYLE

freepress

NOVEMBER 2025

6, 7, 8 November

Adams

Nixon in China

12 November

Händel

Concerti Grossi

13, 14, 15 November

Harding/Lim

Ravel/Rachmaninoff

Les Musiciens du Louvre

conductor Marc Minkowski

November

2025

Händel Concerti Grossi, op.3

Santa Cecilia 25/26

classica, presente, eterna

Orchestra e Coro

dell’Accademia di Santa Cecilia

conductor John Adams

Adams Short Ride in a fast Machine

Copland Billy the kid suite

Adams Nixon in China: three scenes

Orche str a dell’Accademia di Santa Cecilia

conductor Daniel Harding

piano Yunchan Lim

Verdi Les vêpres siciliennes: ouverture

Ravel Piano Concerto in G

Rachmaninoff Symphony no. 2

Cover photo: Marco Sconocchia

www.daylightschool.com/

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Editorial Director: Antonio Amendola

Editorial Staff: Marc Cefaratti, Lauren Caramico, Lauren Mouat,

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Valentina Martinoli, Paola Morotti, Beatrice Tura, Elisa Peduto,

Arianna Callocchia, Lisa Johnson, Federica Bocco,

Aimee Zoon, Livia Tropea, Vishwa Parmar, Anya Maze

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Design, layout & web: Art Project - www.artproject.it

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CONTENTS

n. 11 | year 13 | NOVEMBER 2025

www.romeing.it

FEATURES

04 FOCUS ON PIGNETO

14 WHERE TO LIVE (AND STAY) IN ROME – PART 2

24 TEATRO DELL’OPERA 2025-26 SEASON

28 ROME LGBTQ+ NEIGHBOURHOOD GUIDE

32 MUST SEE: BASILICA DI SANTA PRASSEDE

34 ROMEING SHOP: DISCOVER PIGNETO:

PHOTO WALK + APERITIF

REVIEWS

36 EATING

38 DRINKING

EVENTS

42 BEST OF

51 MUSIC

52 ART&CULT

54 THIS MONTH IN MUSEUMS

follow us on

#ROMEING

ROMEING FLORENCE

58 TOULOUSE-LAUTREC EXHIBITION

Roma

Auditorium Parco della Musica

santacecilia.it

TOURS, EXPERIENCES AND AIRPORT TRANSFERS:

WWW.ROMEING.IT/SHOP

p

F O C U S O N

Pigneto

Pigneto is located on the east of

Rome’s centre, within Municipio V, just

a short tram ride from Termini Station.

It stretches between Via Prenestina

and Via Casilina, roughly bounded by

the railway lines and Via dell’Acqua

Bullicante. It was once a working-class

and neglected quartiere on the “other

side of the tracks”.

Today, Pigneto as we know it blends

rebellion and reinvention, after an

intense process of urban regeneration.

Pigneto is rich in indie boutiques,

natural-wine bars, vintage shops, and

some of Rome’s most mesmerising

street art. Many visitors say that to

walk around Pigneto feels like exploring

a little village of its own, that doesn’t

necessarily belong to Rome. The

architectural diversity, the alternative

shops, vintage stores, diverse bars and

restaurants give a new, different feel to

the city as a whole. And the population

Anya Maze

Pining for Pigneto – a guide to the

quarter’s coolest haunts

of this neighborhood is incredibly

diverse, too–from Pigneto’s historical

inhabitants, to young University students

and immigrants.

There are numerous peculiar and

alternative things to find out in Pigneto.

You can read a book on tattoos and

illustrations from the Uroboro Bookshop

in via Ascoli Piceno 21. Or you can take

a walk in Pigneto’s alleys, and admire

the incredible street art that colours the

area. You can walk under the aqueducts,

or you can engage in some fun industrial

archaeology by visiting the social centre

ExSnia and its artificial lake. Or better

yet, why don’t you take part in our

Discover Pigneto: Photo Walk + Aperitif,

a guided stroll that captures murals,

hidden corners, and golden-hour shots,

ending with a well-earned aperitivo in

one of the area’s best bars.

SEE THE FULL GUIDE HERE

1 WWW.ROMEING.IT/PIGNETO-NEIGHBOURHOOD-ROME/

4 ROMEING

ROMEING 5

NOVEMBER 2025 NOVEMBER 2025

FOCUS ON PIGNETO

- HIGHLIGHTS -

PIGNETO STREET

PHOTOGRAPHY TOUR WITH

APERITIVO

Explore Rome’s Pigneto neighborhood on a

guided photowalk. Capture street art, vintage

corners, and market scenes, then enjoy an

aperitivo and receive a printed photo as a

keepsake.

BOOK

HERE

BOOK ONLINE

romeing.it/shop/product/discover-pigneto-photo-walk-aperitif/

STREET ART VESPA TOUR OF

ROME

Witness incredible forgotten buildings and

hidden walls flourish in color and drawings

on this 3-hour street art tour of Rome on the

back of a Vespa. See millenary buildings and

ancient ruins smoothly blend with this new

disrupting form of art. And get your camera

ready for the most unconventional Rome you

would ever imagine!

BOOK ONLINE

romeing.it/shop/product/rome-street-art-vespa-tour/

6 ROMEING

ROMEING 7


FOCUS ON PIGNETO

- EAT - - EAT -

FOCUS ON PIGNETO

NECCI DAL 1924

Via Fanfulla da Lodi, 68

Mon-Thur 8am-1am; Fri-Sat 8am-2am; Sun

8am-1am

LA SANTERIA

Via del Pigneto, 209

Tue-Thur 6:30pm-12:30am; Fri-Sat 6:30pm-

1am

ETTOLITRO


Mon-Thur 5pm-12:30am; Fri-Sun 11am-3pm,

5pm-1:30am

PIZZERIA SANT’ALBERTO

Via del Pigneto, 46

Mon-Thur 5pm-12am; Fri-Sat 5pm-1am; Sun

5pm-12am

Necci dal 1924 is a Pigneto evergreen (made

famous by Pasolini’s 1961 Accattone) and still a

neighbourhood hub from breakfast to late night.

The kitchen spans charcuterie boards, fritto di

pesce with the house sauce, pastas, desserts, and

a considered wine and cocktail list. Seating spreads

between a dining room and a garden, good for

group aperitivos and celebrations. It’s lively yearround,

especially in the evening.

La Santeria Trattoria Consapevole is a welcoming

Pigneto spot where both sea and land dishes

earn praise, with a cosy room and attentive staff.

Standouts include a fish soup and a wine list that

ranges widely across Europe, encouraging a bit

of exploration. The setting is thoughtfully finished,

just a few steps from the metro. At busy times the

wait can stretch, but the cooking makes the pause

worthwhile.

EttoLitro follows a “bottega e assaggio” formula:

part shop, part tasting room, where you can buy

and taste at the counter or settle in for aperitivo/

apericena. Expect generous boards of carefully

selected salumi, cheeses and house-made bites.

The wine list leans on interesting, non-commercial

producers and the beer selection is great too.

Friendly service and rich portions make it an easy

Pigneto’s favourite to return to.

Pizzeria Sant’Alberto is a trusty Pigneto staple

where you can choose between Roman or

Neapolitan dough. Their service is attentive and

quick, even during the busiest evenings, with

takeaway available. In warmer months, we suggest

grabbing an outdoor table on the neighbourhood’s

Isola Pedonale for a typical, convivial evening.

VA.DO AL PIGNETO

Via Braccio da Montone, 56

Mon-Sat 5pm-12:30am; Sun 9am-5pm

Va.do al Pigneto sets a polished post-industrial

scene with well-spaced tables. The menu is broad,

with creative plates and delicious primi. Their

ingredients feel carefully sourced, the cooking

confident, and the wine list pairs perfectly. The

service is attentive and cordial, making it a strong

shout for a relaxed date night or a catch-up with

friends.

8

ROMEING

NOVEMBER 2025

BOSCO – OFFICINE DEL TARTUFO

Via Macerata, 8/c

Tue-Sun 12pm–3pm, 6.30pm–11.30pm

Bosco – Officine del Tartufo pairs an open kitchen

with a warm, low-key room and a seasonal menu

centred on Abruzzo–Molise truffles. Antipasti,

crostoni and primi carry balanced aromas, while

the wine list leans regional and complements the

cooking. Service is cordial and the chef engages the

room, leaving you keen to come back and explore

Bosco further.

DAR PARUCCA

Via Macerata, 89

Tue-Thur 12:30pm-3pm, 7:30pm-11pm; Fri

12:30pm-3pm, 7:30pm-11:30pm; Sat-Sun

12:30pm-3:30pm, 7:30pm-11:30pm

Dar Parucca, featured on Alessandro Borghese’s

4 Ristoranti show, presents a proper osteria vibe:

lively and made for Friday nights with friends.

Antipasti set the tone, especially the polpette and

crisp fried artichokes, before a standout carbonara

that many call the best they’ve had. Service is

playful and attentive, keeping the mood high from

start to finish.

MILE PIGNETO

Via Pesaro, 8

Mon-Thur 7:30pm-11pm; Fri-Sat 7pm-11pm;

Sun 12:30pm-2:30pm, 7:30pm-11pm

Mile Pigneto honours Roman tradition with clear

intent: top-quality ingredients, precise technique,

and pairings that balance roots and innovation.

The room feels relaxed and welcoming, backed by

attentive service. Dishes win you over from the first

bite and remain consistent across visits, while the

thoughtfully curated wine list is a further highlight.

FOCUS ON PIGNETO

- DRINKS - - DRINKS -

FOCUS ON PIGNETO

MEZZO

Via del Pigneto, 19

Tue-Sun 6pm–2am

CARGO

Via del Pigneto, 20

Mon-Sun 5pm–2am

FANFULLA

Via Fanfulla da Lodi, 5

Mon-Sun 10pm-3am

SPIRITO

Via Braccio da Montone, 66

Sun-Thur 8pm-4am; Fri-Sat 8pm-4:30am

Mezzo Vermouteria al Pigneto is an industrial-chic

bar built for a lingering aperitivo, with naturalleaning

labels and a great vermouth line-up

served neat or mixed. Their cocktails are executed

with precision and the back bar shows off quality

distillates. The mood is intimate and unhurried,

ideal for a quiet catch-up with friends or a solo

evening.

Cargo is an aperitivo-focused venue on Pigneto’s

pedestrian strip, with a spacious outdoor area

and an always-full vibe. Here you can find a broad

spritz list alongside well-made cocktails (including

alcohol-free), beers and wine. Boards come in

several styles (including a vegan and vegetarian

options) and there are a couple of pinsa choices

to share. The service is quick and cheerful, making

it an easy choice for a laid-back aperitivo or dinner

stop with friends.

Fanfulla is a firm favourite for party-goers and

cinema lovers. It is one of Rome’s best social clubs,

always welcoming a mix of live bands and DJ’s.

At Fanfulla you can experience different musical

genres spacing from punk and rock, to pop and

electro, or you can watch a nice arthouse movie.

You will require an Arci membership card, but fear

not: you can create your own on the spot. Don’t

forget to check out their programming on their

website.

This speakeasy-style cocktail bar presents a

polished, intimate feel and meticulously crafted

drinks. Bartenders are friendly, precise and happy

to guide you toward the best cocktail combinations.

It’s a popular weekend stop, so the room can buzz,

but the quality stays high!

BOTTIGLIERIA PIGNETO

Via del Pigneto, 106a

Sun-Thur 8am-1am; Fri-Sat 8am-2am

Bottiglieria Pigneto blends a homely, vintage

setting with soft background music and attentive

service. Their plates favour quality over size, with

well-executed classics like carbonara or tagliata

di manzo. There’s ample seating indoors and out,

and a great breakfast offer for work breaks or lazy

mornings.

THE FORUM

Piazza del Pigneto, 8a

Mon-Sun 6am-10pm

The Forum is a cosy bistrot & coworking spot on

the Pigneto pedestrian strip, ideal for productive

work sessions by day and relaxed drinks with

friends at night. The space is small but calm, and

equipped with screens for intimate events (book

presentations, art exhibits, etc). Their friendly

service and a laid-back pace make it an easy go-to!

BIRRA+


Mon-Thur 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am

Birra+ is a craft beer bar with one of Rome’s

strongest line-ups: a wide rotation on tap plus an

extensive bottle and can list. The team is attentive,

friendly and knowledgeable, happy to guide you

from ales to sours and beyond. It’s a reliable

corner for quality drinking and easy conversation

in Pigneto.

LARGO VENUE

Via Biordo Michelotti, 2

Wed 8pm-1am; Thur 8pm-2am; Fri-Sat 8pm-

4am; Sun 8pm-1am

Largo Venue is a versatile hub for live music and DJ

sets, spanning electronic, indie rock, jazz nights and

LGBTQ+ events. The space is well organised, with

a mid-sized concert hall and a wide outdoor area.

Keep an eye on their rich program, there’s usually

something worth catching!

ROMEING

NOVEMBER 2025

11

WHERE TO LIVE (AND STAY) IN ROME – PART II

AREA

IDEAL FOR

PROS

CONS Area

TRANSPORT

RENT

NIGHTLIFE

Appio / San

Giovanni

Families, value

Metro A/C,

shopping

Traffic corridors

Metro A/C

(San Giovanni)

€€–€€€

ss

Piazza Bologna

(Nomentano)

Students, staff

Metro B, universities

Less “postcard” Area

Metro B

(Bologna)

€€€

sss

Aventine

Families, calm

Leafy, serene,

central-adjacent

Limited

nightlife

Metro B

(Circo Massimo)

€€€€–€€€€€

ss

Monteverde

Families, green

space

Villa Pamphilj,

local vibe

Fewer metro

Area

stops

Tram 8 + buses

€€€

ss

Where to Live (and Stay) in Rome (part 2)

Flaminio &

Parioli

Upscale expats

Parks, culture

Higher prices

Metro A

(Flaminio) +

trams

€€€€

sss

How to choose the right neighborhood in Rome

Moving can be a stressful experience. Moving to Rome even more so if you’re not prepared.

There’s the language, legal paperwork, finding a job, and, most importantly, securing the right

apartment. In Rome, it truly is location, location, location: the neighborhood you choose can

make or break your time here. Each rione has its own personality; some feel postcard-pretty,

others more local and lived-in. What’s “best” really depends on your lifestyle.

Whether you’re planning a short stay or relocating as an expat, this guide compares Rome’s

most popular areas with a clear look at pros & cons, transport, rent levels, safety, and overall

vibe, so you can match your interests and needs to the right neighborhood. Use the quick

comparison table for a fast scan, then dive into the detailed cards to find your fit.

After covering the first eight neighborhoods in our October issue, this edition explores nine

more to complete the guide.

Trieste–Salario

Garbatella

Esquilino

Long-term

expats

Locals

Students, young

professionals

Residential,

elegant

Character,

Metro B, value

Multicultural,

central

Limited nightlife

Area

hubs

Mixed housing

stock

Busy near

Area

Termini

Metro B1

(Sant’Agnese

Annibaliano)

Metro B

(Garbatella)

Metro A/B

(Termini

Vittorio)

€€€–€€€€

€€€

€€–€€€

ss

sss

sss

Did you miss the first part?

Scan the QR on the next page to read the full guide online.

Balduina /

Trionfale

Families

Residential,

markets

Hilly, quieter

nights

FM3 + buses;

Metro A (Cipro)

€€-€€€

ss

12 ROMEING

ROMEING 13


WHERE TO LIVE (AND STAY) IN ROME


Where to stay in Rome (short-term)

For first-timers, you can’t go wrong with Centro Storico, Monti, or Prati. All central, walkable,

and well-connected. Prefer nightlife and a distinct Roman vibe? Trastevere and Testaccio/

Ostiense deliver personality

• Best for first time: Centro Storico, Monti, Prati

• Best for nightlife: Trastevere, Testaccio/Ostiense, Pigneto/San Lorenzo

• Best for families (central): Prati, Aventino

• Best value near center: Testaccio/Ostiense, Esquilino

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Where to live in Rome (expats/long-term)

If you’re moving to Rome, think beyond postcard streets. Consider commute, schools, noise,

green space and budget.

• Family-friendly & green: Monteverde, Trieste–Salario, Balduina/Trionfale, Prati,

Aventino

• Young professionals: Monti, Trastevere (quieter backstreets), Testaccio/Ostiense,

Garbatella

• Students: Piazza Bologna (Nomentano), San Lorenzo, Pigneto

• Corporate/business: EUR, Prati

• International schools & space: Cassia / Ponte Milvio; consider Balduina/Trionfale too

Appio/San Giovanni

Vibe: Big-city convenience, strong transport, local shopping.

Pros: Metro A/C; value vs center; great food (including Slow Food spots).

Cons: Traffic on main corridors; less “storybook” charm.

Transport: A/C (San Giovanni).

Rent: €€–€€€

Nightlife: ss

Good for: families, commuters.

Urban and practical, anchored by Via Appia Nuova and the A–C interchange at San Giovanni.

You get good value vs the historic center, strong day-to-day services and retail. Main avenues

are traffic-heavy and less “postcard,” but quieter side streets offer solid, family-friendly homes.

DID YOU MISS THE FIRST PART?

SCAN THE QR TO SEE THE FULL GUIDE ONLINE.

1

WWW.ROMEING.IT/WHERE-TO-LIVE-IN-ROME/

14 ROMEING

ROMEING 15




Aventine

Vibe: Leafy hilltop overlooking Circus Maximus; serene and elegant.

Pros: Quiet streets; quick reach to center; green corners.

Cons: Limited nightlife; smaller rental market.

Transport: B (Circo Massimo) + buses.

Rent: €€€€-€€€€€

Nightlife: ss

Good for: families, couples seeking calm.

Leafy, serene hilltop above Circus Maximus with a discreet, upscale vibe. Close to the center

yet wonderfully calm, with small parks and beautiful streets. Limited nightlife and a smaller

rental market, but excellent for families and couples who want peace without being isolated.

Piazza Bologna (Nomentano)

Vibe: Practical, university-oriented, well connected.

Pros: Metro B; near Sapienza; services and parks (Villa Torlonia).

Cons: Less “postcard Rome.”

Transport: B (Bologna).

Rent: €€-€€€

Nightlife: sss

Good for: students, researchers.

Practical, university-oriented, and well connected via Metro B. Close to Sapienza and good for

students, researchers, and staff who want everyday convenience over scenery. Solid value,

parks like Villa Torlonia nearby, and plenty of services; limited “wow” factor compared to the

center.

READ OUR GUIDE TO

AVENTINE

WWW.ROMEING.IT/AVENTINE-NEIGHBOURHOOD-ROME/

READ OUR GUIDE TO

NOMENTANO

WWW.ROMEING.IT/NOMENTANO-NEIGHBOURHOOD-ROME/

16 ROMEING

ROMEING 17




Monteverde

Vibe: Residential with Rome’s best park access.

Pros: Villa Doria Pamphilj; local cafés; good value pockets; community feel.

Cons: Fewer metro stops; rely on tram/bus.

Transport: Tram 8 + buses to Trastevere/center.

Rent: €€€

Nightlife: ss

Good for: families, runners, dog owners.

Residential comfort and Rome’s best park access at Villa Doria Pamphilj. Local cafés and

a family vibe. No metro, expect slightly longer journeys by bus/taxi. Close to the Gianicolo

viewpoints and near several American universities (e.g., AUR, JCU). Great for families, runners,

and anyone who prioritizes greenery.

Flaminio & Parioli

Vibe: Culture and class—MAXXI, Auditorium, Villa Borghese edges.

Pros: Parks; good schools; elegant buildings; quiet streets.

Cons: Higher prices; calmer after dark.

Transport: A (Flaminio) + trams/buses.

Rent: €€€€

Nightlife: sss

Good for: executives, families.

Culture and class: MAXXI, Auditorium, and Villa Borghese edges meet elegant residential

streets. Quiet after dark, excellent schools and parks, and higher prices. Well suited to

executives and families seeking refined living with quick access to the center by Metro A and

trams.

READ OUR GUIDE TO

MONTEVERDE

WWW.ROMEING.IT/WHAT-TO-DO-IN-MONTEVERDE-VECCHIO-ROME/

READ OUR GUIDE TO

PARIOLI

WWW.ROMEING.IT/GUIDE-TO-ROME-PARIOLI-NEIGHBORHOOD/

18 ROMEING

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Trieste–Salario

Vibe: Stylish residential area with unique art-nouveau corners.

Pros: Solid services; B1 metro; quieter vibe; handsome architecture.

Cons: Nightlife limited to a few hubs.

Transport: B1 (Sant’Agnese/Annibaliano).

Rent: €€€-€€€€

Nightlife: ss

Good for: longer-term expats.

Stylish residential district with art-nouveau gems and solid services. Quieter than trendier

cores, with B1 metro access and good day-to-day convenience. Nightlife is limited to a few

pockets, but for longer stays it delivers comfort, architecture, and a stable rental market.

Garbatella

Vibe: Historic garden suburb with strong community character.

Pros: Distinctive courtyards; Metro B; good value.

Cons: Housing stock mixed; aesthetic varies street to street.

Transport: B (Garbatella).

Rent: €€€

Nightlife: sss

Good for: young locals, creatives.

Historic garden-suburb feel with strong community character and quick Metro B access.

Distinctive courtyards and local trattorie make it charming and more affordable than many

central districts. Housing stock varies street to street; scout the exact block.

READ OUR GUIDE TO

TRIESTE

WWW.ROMEING.IT/GUIDE-TO-ROME-QUARTIERE-TRIESTE-AND-AFRICANO/

READ OUR GUIDE TO

GARBATELLA

WWW.ROMEING.IT/GARBATELLA-NEIGHBOURHOOD/

20 ROMEING

ROMEING 21




Esquilino

Vibe: Multicultural and central with big-city convenience.

Pros: Value near center; large market; transport hub proximity.

Cons: Busy around Termini; mixed building quality.

Transport: A/B (Termini) + A (Vittorio Emanuele).

Rent: €€€

Nightlife: sss

Good for: students, budget-minded.

Multicultural, central, and practical, close to Termini and markets. Good value near the center

but expect bustle and varied building quality. Choose carefully: quieter side streets can be a

sweet spot for students and budget-minded expats who want connections over charm.

Balduina / Trionfale

Vibe: Residential hill north of Vatican with local markets and views.

Pros: Quieter streets; Mercato Trionfale; family-friendly.

Cons: Hilly; nightlife sparse; more bus reliance.

Transport: FM3 + buses; A (Cipro) nearby for parts of Trionfale.

Rent: €€-€€€

Nightlife: ss

Good for: families.

Residential hill north of the Vatican with local markets, views, and a calmer pace. Familyfriendly

and good value relative to central hotspots. Hilly terrain and fewer nightlife spots;

transit relies on buses and the FL3 line (with Metro A reachable from parts of Trionfale).

READ OUR GUIDE TO

ESQUILINO

WWW.ROMEING.IT/ROME-ESQUILINO-NEIGHBOURHOOD/

22 ROMEING

ROMEING 23


Teatro dell’Opera

2025-26 Season

Rome Opera

House Program

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma

Piazza Beniamino Gigli

Baths of Caracalla (summer)

operaroma.it

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma has steadily grown in international

prestige, hosting world-renowned artists such as Enrico

Caruso, Maria Callas, and Raina Kabaivanska, along with

celebrated conductors Arturo Toscanini, Victor de Sabata,

Otto Klemperer, Claudio Abbado, and Riccardo Muti. The

2025–26 season is no exception.

The new season at Teatro dell’Opera di Roma will offer

audiences 12 new productions, 9 operas and 3 ballets,

along with 14 opera titles, 8 in-house ballets, and 4

concerts.

Dance once again plays a major role this year, ranging from

great classics such as The Nutcracker and La Bayadère

to explorations of the 20th century and the contemporary

repertoire, with works by George Balanchine, Pina Bausch,

Jerome Robbins, Jacopo Godani, Marco Goecke, Angelin

Preljocaj, and Benjamin Millepied. The season will culminate

with the annual summer Caracalla Festival, set against the

splendid backdrop of the Roman Baths.

24 ROMEING

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OPERA

The season opens on November 27 with Wagner’s Lohengrin, a first-time venture for Music

Director Michele Mariotti, director Damiano Michieletto, and tenor Dmitry Korchak.

La bohème follows Jan 14–25 with an Impressionist-inspired staging created with Valencia’s

Palau de les Arts. World premiere: Lucia Ronchetti’s Inferno (Feb 19–Mar 7, 2026) conducted

by Tito Ceccherini with Neue Vocalsolisten. Ariadne auf Naxos (Mar 1–10, 2026) returns under

Maxime Pascal. Robert Carsen stages Händel’s Il trionfo del Tempo e del Disinganno (Apr

7–14, 2026).

Roméo et Juliette (Apr 28–May 6) stars Vittorio Grigolo and Nino Machaidze. Mariotti’s second

title is Rossini’s Tancredi (May 19–29) with Carlo Vistoli. Claus Guth’s famed Le nozze di

Figaro gets its Italian premiere (Sept 15–23), marking Emmanuel Tjeknavorian’s house debut.

The season closes with Mariotti’s third title, Verdi’s Falstaff (Oct 13–Nov 1) directed by Tatjana

Gürbaca and starring Luca Salsi.

CONCERTS

There are four concert dates in the new Opera di Roma season. It opens on March 5, 2026

at the Teatro Costanzi with At the Court of the Kings of France. Music for Versailles: violinist–

conductor Emmanuel Resche-Caserta leads the Orchestra Nazionale Barocca dei Conservatori

with soprano Marie Perbost.

Michele Mariotti then conducts Visioni d’addio at the Costanzi on May 28, featuring Richard

Strauss’s Vier letzte Lieder with Latvian soprano Marina Rebeka, alongside Schubert’s

Symphony No. 9 in C major, D 944 “The Great.”

The series concludes with two performances of Rossini’s Petite messe solennelle on October

17 and 22, the latter in the evocative Basilica of San Vitale.

DANCE

The 2025–2026 dance season opens with Tchaikovsky’s The Nutcracker, the quintessential

Christmas ballet, in Paul Chalmer’s fairy-tale staging, on stage December 17–31, 2025. The

leads are Chloe Misseldine and Jacopo Tissi. On the podium, conductor Nir Kabaretti will

alternate with Carlo Donadio.

From February 3 to 8, 2026, La Bayadère will be presented in Benjamin Pech’s choreographic

version. Taking the stage are Paris Opera Étoiles Sae Eun Park and Paul Marque, making their

Costanzi debuts.

Also returning this year is the Trittico Contemporaneo, strongly championed by Eleonora

Abbagnato, with three works making their Rome premieres: Spring and Fall by John Neumeier,

Echoes from a Restless Soul, and I Feel the Earth Move.

For the first time at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, from June 9 to 14, George Balanchine’s

A Midsummer Night’s Dream, inspired by Shakespeare’s beloved comedy, will be presented,

with costumes and sets by Gianluca Falaschi. The music by Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy will

be conducted by Karen Durgaryan.

In the autumn, from October 27 to November 8, the season’s second Contemporary Triptych

arrives: Goecke / Robbins / Bausch, an homage to Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes, which made its

Italian debut in Rome in 1911.

SUMMER SEASON

Also in the summer 2025, the Opera House returns to the traditional stage at the Baths of

Caracalla with performances of ballet, music, opera and extras between June to August. Some

of the featured titles include the ballet Carmen and a tribute to Puccini with performances of

Tosca and Turandot, all under the creative direction of Massimiliano Fuksas.

26 ROMEING

ROMEING 27



Rome LGBTQ+

Neighbourhood

Guide: Queer-

Friendly Bars,

Culture & Nightlife

p

Anya Maze

A neighbourhood-byneighbourhood

look

at Rome’s LGBTQ+

community and nightlife.

Where’s the rainbow in Rome?

Some neighbourhoods keep a lower

profile, while others show their

colours more openly.

From long-running nights like

Frappe at Largo Venue to events

such as Flag in Piazza Vittorio,

the city has its own landmarks in

LGBTQ+ culture and nightlife.

As a member of the community or

an ally, you don’t want to miss this

guide that gathers the best queer

and queer-friendly bars, clubs, and

cultural spaces across the Eternal

City.

Pigneto

Explicitly Queer

• Magnebevo e Sto ar Pigneto (Via Macerata, 3): a small bar with a huge heart. You come

for the Mezcal & delicious food, and stay for the chosen family energy.

• Malo Glitter Bar (Via Fanfulla da Lodi, 3): enjoy drag, disco, karaoke and sparkle from

Wednesday to Sunday (every night is a story!)

• Tuba Bookstore Bar (Via del Pigneto, 39/a): a feminist & queer bookshop that organizes

related book presentations and events. A welcoming space to read and connect over a

great coffee.

• Mondi Possibili (Via Macerata, 24/A): a sex-positive love boutique that believes pleasure

equals power. Go on, we dare you to explore!

Inclusively Welcoming

• Largo Venue (Via Biordo Michelotti, 2): hosting “Latte Fresco”, an intimate and queer

Friday night, with stand-up comedy and dance in a lively music club setting.

• Cargo (Via del Pigneto, 20) and Zazie (Via Ettore Giovenale, 16): bars with inclusive vibes

that don’t ask, they just welcome.

Monti

Explicitly Queer

• Coming Out (Via di S. Giovanni in Laterano, 8): an iconic venue for drinks, karaoke night

on Thursday and drag shows.

• My Bar (Via S. Giovanni in Laterano,12): youthful and international gay bar, with 24/7

pride energy!

• 101 Roma (Via Panisperna, 101): a small cozy club with a good music selection and

Drag Thursdays. Remember you need a dedicated membership to enter this club!

• Company Club (Piazza Manfredo Fanti, 40): a bear-friendly and laid-back disco bar, open

from Thursday to Sunday.


• Pifebo (Via dei Serpenti, 135) & Humana (Via Leonina, 38)

Portonaccio

Explicitly Queer

• Muccassassina (Via di Portonaccio, 212): a multi-floor gay club known for drag shows

and themed parties on Fridays within the Qube club.

ROMEING

NOVEMBER 2025

29


Historical Center


• Spazio Sette Libreria (via dei Barbieri 7): a bookshop-bar in the centre of Rome where

you can browse shelves, order coffee or cakes surrounded by books. Friendly service

and a resident cat make this place extra special!

Testaccio

Explicitly Queer

• Gay Center (Via Nicola Zabaglia, 14): the home to LGBT+ community, Refuge LGBT and

Gay Help Line.

Portuense

Explicitly Queer

• Frutta e Verdura Club (Via di Santa Passera, 27): a gay nightclub with electronic music

parties, a dark room, and chill-out area. It stays open until dawn and, being far from the

centre, is best reached by car, taxi, or ride-share.

Tuscolano Nord


• Spiritall (Piazza Ragusa, 53): a community refuge for the LGBTQIA+ world and every

form of love. Here people share stories, cultures, food, and drinks in an atmosphere

designed by the owner Mattia, so as to feel like home and inspire new dreams.

San Lorenzo

Explicitly Queer

• Libreria Antigone (Via dei Piceni, 1): a go-to place for queer literature and book talks on

gender studies, queer art and history you won’t forget.


• La Conventicola degli Ultramoderni (via di Porta Labicana, 32): an intimate venue for

nightly variety - burlesque, cabaret, and live music - La Conventicola degli Ultramoderni

blends vintage glamour with immersive, interactive shows in a 1940s-inspired setting.

• Giufà Cafè Libreria (Via degli Aurunci, 38): an independent bookstore that focuses on

cultural promotions and a range of well-selected projects.

• Bonario (Via dei Volsci, 121): a queer-friendly restaurant that serves Mediterranean

delicacies with vegetarian and vegan options.

Trastevere



• Zalib (Via della Penitenza, 35): an ARCI membership-based space where you can read,

study, or meet with friends. It features two indoor gardens, shelves of books, and a

calendar rich with cultural events.

• In Vino Veritas (Via Garibaldi, 2/A): it sits at the edge of Trastevere, serving wine,

cocktails, and a range of gin. Regulars gather here for drinks and the easy-going feel of

a neighbourhood bar.

• Freni e Frizioni (Via del Politeama, 4): it’s known for its inventive cocktails and energetic

crowd. Locals and travellers gather here for carefully mixed drinks, and the feeling of

being right in the flow of Rome’s nightlife.

30 ROMEING

ROMEING 31


BASILICA DI SANTA PRASSEDE IN ROME

x

MUSTSEE

Basilica di Santa Prassede in Rome

Discover the hidden treasures of this beautiful church

p

Aimée Zoon

Via di Santa Prassede, 9A

Monday-Saturday 10am-12pm | 4pm-6pm

Sunday 10am-11am | 4pm-6pm

Just a stone’s throw away from the central station Termini and the Basilica of Saint Mary

Major (Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore), you will find the Basilica of Saint Praxedes (Basilica

di Santa Prassede). Easily overlooked and tucked away in a small street, this is a hidden gem

not to be missed. Behind its bright orange outside wall this basilica houses stunning mosaics

and a beautiful floor.

The church as we see it now was built in the 9th century by Pope Paschal in honor of Saint

Praxedes, who helped Christians flee persecution and buried the remains of those she

couldn’t save. A marble disc in the central nave indicates the well where she buried the

remains and the blood of those martyrs.

The interior is divided into three naves

divided in turn by granite columns. Entering,

your eye is immediately drawn to the

dazzling mosaics that cover the entire walls

and vault created by artists from Byzantium.

The apse shows Saint Praxedes (left) and

her sister Pudentiana (right) on either side

of Christ, while the arms of Saint Peter and

Saint Paul rest on their shoulders. On the

far left you can see Pope Paschal himself

presenting a model of the church as an

offering to Christ. Looking closely, you will

see that Pope Paschal is the only figure with

a blue nimbus instead of a golden halo. This

to indicate that he was still alive at the time.

Don’t leave the church without having taken

a look inside the Chapel of Zeno (Cappella

di San Zenone), build by Pope Paschal as a

mausoleum for his mother Theodora. This

heavily mosaiced chapel is decorated almost

entirely with pieces of glass and gold and is

the only chapel in Rome that consists entirely

of mosaics. Don’t forget to bring a little

money to donate – that way the mosaics will

be illuminated which makes them even more

impressive. Additionally, the chapel contains

a glass case with a segment of the column

upon which Jesus was flogged and tortured.

Whether you are religious or atheist, this

unique church with its magnificent mosaics

is definitely worth a visit.

32 ROMEING

ROMEING 33


ROMEING SHOP

www.romeing.it/shop

Discover Pigneto:

Photo Walk + Aperitif

ROMEING SHOP

A DURATION

2.15 hours

c DEPARTURE TIME 3.30pm (until 28 March 2026)

4.30pm (from 29 March 2026)

a 1 FREQUENCY Every day

q LANGUAGES

English, Italian

! MEETING POINT Via Macerata, 34

€ PRICE €70

BOOK NOW

................................................................................................................................................................

romeing.it/shop/product/discover-pigneto-photo-walk-aperitif/

................................................................................................................................................................

Description

This is your opportunity to explore

Roman neighborhoods like a true

local! We present you the stories told

through images. This is Pigneto’s

walking tour which blends Rome’s

picturesque neighbourhoods with its

culture, food and music. You will be

guided by professional photographers

to capture your own roman holiday.

Meet at our gallery for coffee, watch

a brief intro video, then head out for

~90 minutes among murals, cafés,

and live the everyday life.

Aperitif is included and you can keep

one printed photo as a souvenir.

Perfect for curious explorers with

phone or camera.

Highlights

• Discover Pigneto through images: capture street life, murals, and

immerse into the local culture

• Small group of up to 10 people: time to look, learn, and enjoy

• No experience needed: perfect for curious explorers, and photo lovers

alike

• Included aperitif at a traditional enoteca: unwind, mingle, and share

your photographs with the group

Inclusions

• Welcome coffee at the meeting point

• Short intro video on Rome’s street photography and the Pigneto story

in a photogallery

• 1.5-hour guided walk through Pigneto: explore stories in the hidden

corners. You can use any smartphone or camera to take photo and

learn composition tips from a professional photographer.

• Aperitif in a traditional Roman enoteca

• One printed photo of your choice as a keepsake

Exclusions

• Hotel pick up & drop off

34 ROMEING

ROMEING 35


EATING

EATING

IL MARCHESE

Via di Ripetta, 162 (Centro Storico)

Daily 12:30pm – 2am

06.90218872

ilmarcheseroma.it

ilmarcheseroma

Il Marchese unites the best of two worlds: a bar with

elegant French salon accents and pompous chandeliers,

and a restaurant with the coziness of a Roman trattoria.

But it’s not just the décor that’s impressive. When you

walk into Il Marchese you step inside Europe’s first Amaro

bar with more than 500 different Amaro labels.

During the recent G20 in Rome, Il Marchese had two

special customers: the American First Lady Jill Biden

and the French Première Dame Brigitte Macron. The two

ladies said they were “delighted with the lovely welcome”,

complimenting the staff and the quality of the products.

ll Marchese takes its name from the Marchese del Grillo,

a symbol of Rome’s inimitable spirit– a true gentleman,

but always inclined to irony, a lover of tradition, but also

appreciated by those who come from different cultures.

Here, with Chef Daniele Roppo, you’re sure to have a

fantastic dining experience. The culinary philosophy has strong Roman roots and is inspired

by traditional recipes that are lightened according to a contemporary taste, also offering

vegetarian dishes. Quality is always a priority. Ingredients are purchased from local producers.

The amaro and cocktail bar at Il Marchese pays tribute to the elegance of 19th-century

French aristocracy, with precious stuccoes, wallpapers, and velvets. The cocktails here are

perfect for an after-dinner drink or as an aperitif. Each signature drink is crafted with premium

ingredients expertly mixed. Leading the cocktail bar is Fabrizio Valeriani, a bartender with

extensive experience.

ANAVÀ

Via dell’Umiltà, 33 (Centro Storico)

Opening hours: Everyday, 7.30am to midnight

+39 3928801009

anavaroma.it

Newly open at the very heart of the city, between via

del Corso and the Trevi Fountain, Anavà’s mission is

ambitious: bring the most authentic cuisine at the

centre of the Capital and provide a quality gastronomic

offer to all those travelling to Rome for pleasure or

business, as well as to the locals living in the area who

never compromise when it comes to food and taste.

Located inside the Hotel Je Rome, by The Ner

Collection, Anavà is open from breakfast until dinner and it is committed to an authentic and

sophisticated Italian cuisine that stands apart from the traditional trattorias nearby.

As the name of the street it is located on suggests - Via dell’Umiltà (Humility Street) - Anavà’s

spirit is humble in treating staple ingredients with maximum respect, highlighting flavors and

utilizing all elements whenever possible. The restaurant embraces a no-waste philosophy that

transforms what others might discard into culinary poetry. The menu is a journey through rich,

layered sauces - small concentrates of memory where chef Danilo Mancini rediscovers the

profound meaning of cuisine as an artisanal craft, far from mass production, still capable of

surprising.

The chef’s idea is to encourage the guests to share and experience together different types of

plates, from the Mozzichi e Bocconi (Starters plates) to the first and second dishes. The offer

features traditional plates as well as dishes revisited from the ’70s and ‘80s such as pennette

alla vodka or the famous shrimp cocktail served in a coupe glass.

Alongside the food offering, mixology shines with signature serves and revamped classics,

ideal for an aperitivo or to end the evening at the cocktail bar.

36 ROMEING

ROMEING 37


DRINKING

DRINKING

BLACKMARKET HALL

Via de Ciancaleoni, 31 (Monti)

Daily 6pm-2am

+39 349.1995295

blackmarkethall.com

THE RACE CLUB SPEAKEASY

Via Labicana, 52 (Colosseo/Manzoni)

Open daily 10pm – 2am

Entrance with a membership card (Initial fee 5 Euro)

06 9604 4048

theraceclubspeakeasyroma.com

Blackmarket Hall, with its romantic lighting, secret rooms,

and uncanny resemblance to a roaring-twenties speakeasy,

A stone’s throw from the Colosseum, The Race Club is a

welcomes mixology enthusiasts, foodies, and music lovers

speakeasy bar that’s fast becoming a beloved late-night

alike. From its unassuming exterior, you’d never guess the

underground den. Hidden from plain sight, this member’s

treasure trove of creativity, cocktails, and culture that lies

only bar is seriously dedicated to its cocktails. Sit back and

within. But step through its doors, and you’ll find a bohemian

relax on one of their plush sofas and Chester with a wellmixed

haven.

libation unique to Race Club’s menu. From the outside,

With two downstairs garden areas, two sitting rooms, two

The Race Club Roma Speakeasy is easy to miss. This bar

bars, and outdoor heaters for the winter, Blackmarket Hall

stands on a street close to the Colosseum, one of those

is incredibly spacious. The venue serves a wide range of

streets people walk down every day without even knowing

luxuriously curated cocktails alongside international dishes.

that there’s another great Roman gem around the corner. But

They host an extensive aperitivo from 6pm featuring tastings

The Race Club is here, hiding in the dark, waiting to be discovered.

and gourmet pairings – from meat to seafood to vegetarian

When you walk inside, it looks like a biker shop, or some kind of mechanic’s garage, but don’t

options – plus weekly specials, and their kitchen is open

let that fool you. Step into the office, and suddenly you’re standing in front of a staircase.

every night until midnight. The cocktail menu blends inventive signatures with timeless

Walk down those steps, and you’ll find yourself somewhere entirely new, as if you’ve walked

classics, often built on locally sourced ingredients.

through Alice’s looking glass from one world into another.

The Hall doesn’t skimp on food, either. There’s a full menu, from hearty burgers and eclectic

And of course, as a speakeasy, that’s the best reason of all to stop into The Race Club:

small plates to share, to pasta and main courses of meat and fish, crafted to satisfy a range

cocktails. Everyone who tends bar here has been professionally trained, so no matter what

of tastes.

you choose, it will blow you away. The Race Club Roma Speakeasy takes reservations on their

Live Music plays a central role at Blackmarket Hall. From live jazz nights to indie-acoustic

website, and it can accommodate large groups for special events, such as birthday parties.

sets, the stage regularly hosts talented musicians who set the tone for an unforgettable

evening. Shows start at 9:30 PM, and on weekends they’re followed by a DJ set – with DJ

RING IN 2026 AT THE RACE CLUB SPEAKEASY.

sets on Sundays during aperitivo as well. Whether you’re there to sip a cocktail or soak in the

MORE INFO HERE.

performances, the ambiance alone is worth the visit.

WWW.ROMEING.IT/NYE-SPEAKEASY-ROME/

38 ROMEING

NOVEMBER 2025

ROMEING

NOVEMBER 2025

39

DRINKING

CONVENTICOLA DEGLI ULTRAMODERNI

Via Di Porta Labicana, 32 (San Lorenzo)

Open Thur 9.30pm – 4am; Fri-Sat 9.30pm – 5am

+39 349.6726683

laconventicoladegliultramoderni

Nestled within the evocative walls of Rome lies a

sparkling jewel that has transformed the city’s nightlife:

the Conventicola degli Ultramoderni. The brainchild of the

visionary duo Mirkaccio and Madame De Freitas, this venue

is far more than a mere nightclub — it is a stage where

vaudeville meets variété, where café chantant intertwines

with cabaret, and where each evening becomes a timeless

performance. At the Conventicola, aficionados of black-andwhite

cinema, vintage allure, and songs from bygone eras

will discover their sanctuary. Every night, a dozen diverse

artists — singers, comedians, musicians, and burlesque

performers — take turns gracing the stage in a whirlwind of

elegance, wit, and theatrical flair.

Every element — from the cabaret-inspired décor to the

glimmering cushions — is meticulously curated to enchant. Yet beyond the sparkle lies an

unwavering dedication to the authenticity of the performing arts. At the Conventicola, nothing

is contrived; the talent is raw, profound, and timeless. Mirko, who rejects the term “vintage” as

a fleeting trend, pursues a deeper, enduring standard of artistic excellence.

While the spotlight is rightfully on the stage, the bar contributes with equal grace. Crafted in

homage to the great tradition of classic cocktail culture, the drinks are prepared with precision

and elegance. Every sip evokes a bygone glamour, transporting guests further into the

immersive experience. If you are seeking an experience beyond the ordinary — a plunge into

enchantment, sensuality, and the sheer beauty of live performance — the Conventicola degli

Ultramoderni awaits.

CHARITY CAFÉ

JAZZ & BLUES

Via Panisperna, 68 (Monti)

Tue-Sun 7pm-2am

06.47825881

charitycafe.it

Charity Cafe, with its fully

stocked bar specializing

in whiskey, rum and killer

shaken concoctions, is the

jazz and blues aficionado’s

dream. It’s gritty New York

and Roman elegance fused

together with music nights

oozing from Chicago blues to

jazz Harlem standards. 60s

and 70s Classic Rock, Soul

and Folk every Tuesday with

Andy’s Corner; Blues Night

on Wednesday; Jazz Voice

on Thursday; Jazz Night on

Friday, and a groovy Blues

Night on Saturday, all starting

at 10 pm! On Sunday there

is live music with an aperitivo

(6.30pm – 9pm) with snacks,

appetizers and drinks included

in your price.

BUKOWSKI’S BAR

Via del Ombrellari, 25 (Prati/Borgo)

Mon-Wed 5pm-2am; Thu-Sun

9am-2am

06.64760105

BukowskisBarRoma

Vintage finds, bohemian

Roman style décor, a library

of books and pop culture

references will certainly

appeal to your senses. Odes

to Fellini, Bukowski and

even Star Wars, are carefully

placed throughout while

showcasing their grace.

For entrées one might get

prosciutto and hummus, go

for a sandwich, their special

tartares, or an especially

gracious list of salads. The

highlight? Bukowski Bar

offers twelve different kinds

of spritz! And wine lovers,

go for the good stuff with

Bukowski’s wine selection of

Italy’s tastiest.

DRINKING

ALEXANDERPLATZ

JAZZ CLUB

Via Ostia, 9 (Prati/Vatican)

Daily 8.30pm – 1.30am

Concerts begin at 9.30pm

06.86781296 (after 6pm)

+39 3499770309 (WhatsApp)

alexanderplatzjazz.com

Just a few streets away from

the Ottaviano metro in Via

Ostia sits Rome’s oldest jazz

club, Alexanderplatz, a down

to earth venue which wouldn’t

be out of place in the mecca

of Jazz: Greenwich Village,

New York. Many of the most

prominent jazz, blues, soul,

music artists have performed

at the Alexanderplatz,

including Wynton Marsalis,

Brad Meldhau, Red Rodney,

Freddy Cole, Stefano Bollani,

Fabrizio Bosso, Sarah Jane

Morris, Steve Coleman and

many more. Founded in

1984 by Giampiero Rubei,

Alexanderplatz hosts live

concerts everyday from

9.30pm.

40 ROMEING

ROMEING 41


NOVEMBER EVENTS

ART&CULT | MOVIE | NIGHTLIFE | MUSIC | EXHIBITION | SPORT | TASTING

ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 2025

MUSIC – THEATER – DANCE

4 September – 16 November

Various locations throughout Rome

Check the website for details and individual prices

romaeuropa.net

This year, Romaeuropa Festival celebrates its

40th edition with an exceptional line-up of

events running from the 4th of September to

the 16th of November. Over 110 shows and

250 performances will take place across the

city, featuring 700 artists from all over the

world. Spanning music, theatre, dance, digital

arts, and performances for children, the festival

will unfold in more than 20 venues throughout

Rome. The 40th edition promises to be one of

celebration and discovery — a meeting point

for cultural heritage and contemporary creativity,

for lightness and wonder, for shared experiences

across generations.

HIGHLIGHTS THIS MONTH

• 1-2 November

Teatro Vascello

Moritz Ostruschnjak. NON + ULTRAS

• 3 November


Laurie Anderson

• 4 - 5 November

Teatro Vascello

Panzetti / Ticconi

Studio Contemporary Dance Company

• 5-6 November

Teatro Brancaccio

Akram Khan & Manal ALDowayan

Thikra: Night of Remembering

• 6-8 November


John Adams in Rome

• 8 - 9 November

MAXXI

Mohamed El Khatib. Finir en beauté

• 6-8 November


Israel Galván - Mohamed El Khatib

• 14-16 November


Christos Papadopoulos. My Fierce

Ignorant Step

• 16 November


Ryoji Ikeda

42 ROMEING

ROMEING 43


EVENTS

ART | MOVIE | NIGHTLIFE | MUSIC

ROMA JAZZ FESTIVAL

LIVE MUSIC

1-23 November

Auditorium Parco della Musica,

Casa del Jazz, Monk Club

romajazzfestival.it

Rome is about to swing, groove, and meditate on

the music of the universe.

From November 1 to 23, the Roma Jazz Festival

returns for its 49th edition, across Auditorium

Parco della Musica “Ennio Morricone,” Casa del

Jazz, and Monk, bringing together some of the

world’s most exciting artists, from jazz legends

to fearless new innovators. This year’s theme,

inspired by the words of Martin Luther King Jr.

and John Coltrane, sets the tone for a program

that explores music as a spiritual journey and a

call for harmony and justice in turbulent times.

Expect standout performances from Makaya

McCraven, the David Murray Quartet, Joe

Sanders, Hakan Basar Trio, Cécile McLorin

Salvant, and many more.

HIGHLIGHTS THIS MONTH

1 November @ Auditorium

MAKAYA MCCRAVEN


DAVID MURRAY QUARTET


GIANRICO CAROFIGLIO


JOE SANDERS “PARALLELS”


BILAL


CAMILLA GEORGE

14 November @ Casa del Jazz

HAKAN BASAR TRIO


ADRIEN BRANDEIS


CAMILLIERI IN JAZZ – BARBARA

BOVOLI/PAOLO DAMIANI/ROSARIO

GIULIANI


GILAD ATZMON EUROPEAN QUARTET


BERNHARD WIESINGER


CÉCILE MCLORIN SALVANT

44 ROMEING

ROMEING 45


EVENTS


ROMA ARTE IN NUVOLA

ART

21 - 23 November

La Nuvola, Viale Asia 40/44 (EUR)

romaarteinnuvola.eu

Roma Arte in Nuvola 2025 is one of the most

anticipated moments of Rome’s cultural

autumn: a true artistic platform that brings

together artists, galleries, institutions, and

enthusiasts for a visual and sensory experience inside the iconic architecture of Fuksas’s Nuvola.

The fifth edition takes place 21–23 November 2025 with a program of exhibitions, talks, events,

and performances; over 140 exhibitors will offer a comprehensive overview from modern to

contemporary art, from the historical avant-gardes to the most current research, pairing longestablished

galleries with emerging spaces.

MEDFILM FESTIVAL

CINEMA

6-16 November

Casa del Cinema, The Space Cinema Moderno,Teatro

Palladium, ⁠Università La Sapienza di Roma

Tickets €7

medfilmfestival.org

ITALIAN LANGUAGE SCHOOL

Officially authorized

by the Italian Ministry of Education

INTENSIVE AND

SUPERINTENSIVE COURSES

EXTENSIVE COURSES (PART TIME)

Twice a week (18.00-19.30)

CERTIFICATIONS

Preparations courses for CILS and AIL

certifications of Italian language

ONE TO ONE TUTORIALS

ITALIAN CULTURE COURSES

Art History, Cinema, Cooking

BUSINESS AND PROFESSIONAL COURSES

The MedFilm Festival brings Mediterranean

cinema to the heart of Rome. Now in its

31st edition, MedFilm highlights films from

the Mediterranean, Middle East, and North

Africa. It’s a unique opportunity to discover diverse voices and cultures through screenings,

masterclasses, and panel discussions, held across Casa del Cinema, The Space Cinema

Moderno,Teatro Palladium, ⁠and Università La Sapienza di Roma.

ACCOMODATION

Host families

Shared/private apartments

Hotels/B&B

SPORT AND LEISURE TIME

Guided art history visits

Field Trips

Dinners

Film evenings

Join our Community

www.leonardo-rome.com

www.scuolaleonardo.com

rome@scuolaleonardo.com

46 ROMEING

Piazza dell’Orologio, 7

ROMEING 47

NOVEMBER 2025

T. 06.6889.2513 | F. 06.6821.9084

NOVEMBER 2025

EVENTS


INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL

OF SACRED MUSIC AND ART

MUSIC

7-29 November

Church of Saint Ignatius of Loyola; Papal

Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls; Papal

Basilica of Saint Mary Major; Palazzo della

Cancelleria

fondazionepromusicaeartesacra.org

The International Festival of Sacred Music

and Art returns to Rome, filling the city’s most

breathtaking churches with sacred music.

Hosted in venues such as the Church of

Saint Ignatius of Loyola, the Papal Basilica of

Saint Paul Outside the Walls, and the Papal

Basilica of Saint Mary Major, the festival

celebrates the bond between music and

spirituality. International orchestras, choirs,

and soloists perform masterpieces of sacred

music, offering audiences a truly soul-stirring

experience.

RIFF AWARDS, ROME

INDEPENDENT FILM FESTIVAL

FILM FESTIVAL

21-28 November

Nuovo Cinema Aquila,

Tickets €5-7

riff.it

From November 21st to 28th, Rome returns

to be the capital of independent cinema with

the 2025 edition of the RIFF Awards - Rome

Independent Film Festival. The event, which

has been bringing the best of new international

cinema to the capital for 24 years, announces

key news: Oscar-winning director Paul Haggis

will be the festival’s artistic director. Farnese in

Rome. In total, the following will be presented

as Italian premieres: 5 international feature films

- 5 Italian feature films - 12 documentaries

- 50 short films - 6 animated videos - 10

experimental videos - and a pitch with the

screenplays and finalist subjects.

ONLINE MEDICAL

CONSULTATION

48 ROMEING

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NOVEMBER MARKETS

SHOPPING, VINTAGE

Rome’s markets light up November with creativity,

culture, and local flavor. MODERN MRKT by VGMT

debuts at San Paolo District, filling 6,000 m² with

’50s–’90s vintage furniture, and much more. On 1–2

and 15–16 November, Ficus al Massimo returns to the

Garum Museo della Cucina (by the Circus Maximus)

with vintage, handmade, floral design, upcycling,

fashion, ceramics, illustrations, and vinyl; over the same

weekend, Unique brings contemporary craftsmanship

to Industrie Fluviali in Ostiense, hosting 50 curated

exhibitors across multiple levels.

Mid-month (15–16 November), Japan Days Fest

animates Ippodromo Capannelle with the charm of

Japanese culture, while the Green Market Festival at

Città dell’Altra Economia blends handmade and design

with yoga, live music, and family workshops. On 22

November, Vinyl Village returns to Monk for analog and

record lovers, and on 29–30 November the Hippie

Market takes over 692 Secret Garden on Via Tuscolana

with crafts, vintage, live music and street bands.

Rounding things out, the weekly market at Alcazar Live

mixes artisan stalls with music, brunch, and DJ sets—

perfect for a laid-back weekend wander.

Next Events

1-2 & 15-16 November

Ficus al Massimo

Garum Museo della Cucina

1-2 November

Unique Mkt

Industrie Fluviali

8-9 November

Modern Mrkt Roma

San Paolo District

15-16 November

Green Market Festival

Città dell’Altra Economia

15-16 November

Japan Days

Ippodromo Capannelle

22 November

Vinyl Village

Monk

29-30 November

Hippie Market

692 Secret Garden

BEST CONCERTS IN ROME

IN NOVEMBER 2025

David Murray Quartet

(Roma Jazz Festival)

When: 2 November

Where: Auditorium Parco della Musica

(Via Pietro de Coubertin, 10)

Tickets: from €35

Laurie Anderson

When: 3 November



Tickets: €60

Erykah Badu

When: 10 November



Tickets: SOLD OUT

Marco Mengoni

When: November 12-13

Where: Palazzo dello Sport

(Piazzale dello Sport)

Tickets: SOLD OUT

Coez

When: 14-15 November


(Piazzale Pier Luigi Nervi, 1)

Tickets: from €48,50

Annalisa




Tickets: from €39

Modà

When: 23 November



Tickets: from €47,50

Cecile McLorin Salvant

(Roma Jazz Festival)

When: 23 November



Tickets: €40

Elisa

When: 25 November



Tickets: from €49

Carl Brave

When: 27 November



Tickets: from €25

Every weekend

Merkat*

Alcazar Live

Elodie




Tickets: from €39

Clara

When: 28 November

Where: Orion

(Viale J.F. Kennedy, Ciampino)

Tickets: €32,20

50 ROMEING

ROMEING 51


ART &

CULT

DALÍ: REVOLUTION

AND TRADITION AT

PALAZZO CIPOLLA

p

Vishwa Parmar

Until 1 February 2025

Museo del Corso,

Palazzo Cipolla

Via del Corso, 320

Tickets from €10–18

museodelcorso.com

Rome is once again in dialogue with genius.

Palazzo Cipolla’s new exhibition, Dalí.

Revolution and Tradition brings Salvador Dalí

back to the Italian capital for the first time in

over a decade—and this time, it’s personal.

The show dives deep into the paradox that

defined Dalí’s life: his urge to break from

tradition, and his equally obsessive need to

master it.

The exhibition unfolds in four luminous

sections, each dedicated to one of Dalí’s

chosen “teachers”: Picasso, Velázquez,

Vermeer, and Raphael. These aren’t just

references; they’re conversations across

centuries.

Picasso embodies revolution, the chaos

and creation of the avant-garde. Dalí’s early

works breathe in the fractured geometries

and emotional violence of Cubism, but where

Picasso deconstructs, Dalí reconstructs. As he

once said, “You must be revolutionary when

DALÍ: REVOLUTION AND TRADITION AT PALAZZO CIPOLLA

young, only so you can enter the tradition with

legitimacy.”

Then come the masters of balance and light.

Velázquez’s royal realism, Vermeer’s quiet

precision, Raphael’s divine harmony—all

become raw material for Dalí’s dreamscapes.

His reinterpretations of Las Meninas or The

Lacemaker shimmer between reverence and

rebellion. In their company, Dalí looks less

like a surrealist madman and more like a

Renaissance painter possessed by Freud.

Whether you’re a surrealism fanatic or

someone who still thinks Dalí is just the guy

with the mustache and the melting clocks,

this exhibition will shake your idea of what

modern art really means. It’s a rare chance to

see how a painter who flirted with the absurd

ultimately found beauty—and salvation—in

the old masters.

52 ROMEING

ROMEING 53


THIS MONTH IN

MUSEUMS

CINECITTA’ STUDIOS CENTRALE

Via Tuscolana 1055

MONTEMARTINI

Metro Cinecittà Via Ostiense, 106

Metro Piramide

FRENCH ACADEMY IN

ROME. VILLA MEDICI

Viale Trinità dei Monti, 1

Metro Spagna. Bus 117 from

Termini Station

GAGOSIAN GALLERY

Via Francesco Crispi, 34

Metro Barberini

GALLERIA NAZIONALE

D’ARTE MODERNA E

CONTEMPORANEA

Viale delle Belle Arti, 131

Metro Flaminio

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni, 4/a

Bus 2 from Flaminio Station

4 CINECITTA’ SHOWS OFF

c Everyday except Tuesday

10am-6pm

€ entry fee €7-15 (exhibition +

outdoor set visit)

i cinecittasimostra.it

ARA PACIS

Lungotevere in Augusta

Metro Flaminio

4

a 1 TILL 9 NOVEMBER

c

€ free entrance

i

EVOLUTIO BUILDING THE

FUTURE FOR THE LAST

120 YEARS

Everyday 9.30am-7.30pm

arapacis.it

4 SUMMER HIGHLIGHTS

4 MARIA BAROSSO 4 SHARED SACRED SITES.

aTILL 5 SEPTEMBER

aTILL 22 FEBRUARY 2026

c Tue–Sat 10.30am–7pm 4 TIME IS OUT OF JOINT

1 JOURNEYS BETWEEN

1

c Tue-Sun 9am-7pm

RELIGIONS

€ free admission

c Tue-Sun 9am-7pm

€ Entry fee €9-10

a gagosian.com

i centralemontemartini.org

i € entry fee €15

1 TILL 19 JANUARY 2026

c Mon-Sun 10am-7pm (closed

i lagallerianazionale.com

on Tuesday)

€ entry fee €8-10

i villamedici.it

MERCATI DI TRAIANO.

MUSEO DEI FORI

CASTEL SANT’ANGELO CHIOSTRO DEL

IMPERIALI

BRAMANTE

Lungotevere Castello 50

Via IV Novembre, 94

castel sant’angelo

Arco della Pace, 5

Bus 40 from Termini Station


4 BOUNDED AND

UNBOUNDED. LIMITATO

E ILLIMITATO. L’ARTE DI

LIU YOUJU.

a 1 TILL 17 NOVEMBER

c Tue-Sun 9am-7pm

4 1350. IL GIUBILEO SENZA entry fee €15

4 GIOVANNI PAOLO II,

€

4 FLOWERS. ART FROM

PAPA

i lagallerianazionale.com

L’UOMO, IL PAPA, IL

THE RENAISSANCE TO

a

SANTO NEGLI SCATTI DI

1 TILL 1 FEBRUARY 2026

AUGMENTED REALITY

c Everyday 9.30am-7.30pm

GIANNI GIANSANTI a

a 1 TILL 30 NOVEMBER

1 TILL 18 JANUARY 2026

€ entry fee €11-14,50

c Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat-

i mercatiditraiano.it

c Tue-Sun 9am-7.30pm

Sun 10am-9pm

€ entry fee €17

€ entry fee €19

i castelsantangelo.com i chiostrodelbramante.it

4 STADI

ARCHITECTURE OF A MYTH

a 1 TILL 9 NOVEMBER

c Tue-Sun 11am-7pm


i fondazionemaxxi.it

4 GRAZIADEI PRIZE FOR

PHOTOGRAPHY

a 1 FROM 19 SEPTEMBER

c Tue-Sun 11am-7pm


i fondazionemaxxi.it

54

ROMEING ROMEING 55

NOVEMBER 2025

NOVEMBER 2025

THIS MONTH IN

MUSEUMS

MUSEO DEL CORSO A

PALAZZO CIPOLLA

Via del Corso, 320

Metro Spagna/Barberini

MUSEO STORICO DELLA

FANTERIA

Piazza Santa Croce in

Gerusalemme, 7

Metro San Giovanni

MUSEO DI ROMA IN

TRASTEVERE

Piazza di Sant’Egidio, 1/b

Bus H from Termini Station

PALAZZO BONAPARTE

Piazza Venezia, 5

Metro Colosseo

PALAZZO DELLE

ESPOSIZIONI

Via Nazionale, 194

Metro Repubblica

LA VACCHERIA

Via Giovanni l’Eltore, 35

Metro Eur Palasport

4 FROM POP TO ETERNITY

4 DALÍ. REVOLUTION AND

4 MIGRAZIONI.

4 ALPHONSE MUCHA

TILL 8 MARCH 2026 4 18ª QUADRIENNALE

TILL 26 MARCH 2026

TRADITION

4 GAUGUIN: THE NOA

XVI PREMIO IILA-

c Mon-Thu 9am-7.30pm;

D’ARTE

c Tue – Thu 9am-1pm; Fri –

a Sun 9am-7pm

1 TILL 1 FEBRUARY 2026

NOA DIARY AND OTHER

FOTOGRAFIA

Fri-Sun 9am-9pm

FANTASTICA

Mon 3pm-8pm; Tue-Wed

a free entrance

c

ADVENTURES

1 TILL 9 NOVEMBER

€ entry fee €18

TILL 18 JANUARY 2026 €

10am-8pm; Thu-Sun 10am-

c Tue-Sun 10am-8pm

i lavaccheriaroma.it

FROM 6 SEPTEMBER

i mostrepalazzobonaparte.it c Tue-Sun 10am-8pm

9pm

c Mon-Fri 9.30am-7.30pm; € entry fee €7,5-9,5

€ entry fee €10 - 12,5

€ entry fee €18

Sat-Dom 9.30am-8.30pm i museodiromaintrastevere.it

i palazzoesposizioniroma.it

i museodelcorso.com € entry fee €13-15

i navigaresrl.com/

MUSEI CAPITOLINI

MAJA ARTE

Piazza del Campidoglio, 1

CONTEMPORANEA

Metro Colosseo

SCUDERIE DEL

RHINOCEROS GALLERY

Via di Monserrato, 30

QUIRINALE


a 1

Via XXIV Maggio 16

Metro Repubblica

Via dei Cerchi, 21

Metro Circo Massimo

a 1

a 1

a 1

a 1

a 1

a 1

a 1

a 1

4 GEORGINA SPENGLER

PANDAISÍA

a 1 TILL 8 NOVEMBER

c Tue - Fri 3.30pm-7.30pm;

Sat 11am-1pm, 3-7pm

€ free entrance i majartecontemporanea.com

56

1

WWW.ROMEING.IT/EXHIBITIONS-IN-ROME

a 1

4 PICASSO: THE LANGUAGE

OF IDEAS

TILL 25 JANUARY 2026

c Mon-Fri 9.30am-7.30pm;

Sat-Dom 9.30am-8.30pm


i navigaresrl.com/

4 event c time € price i site

4 THE COLOSSUS OF

CONSTANTINE

TILL 31 DECEMBER 2025

c Everyday 9.30am-6.30pm

€ free entrance

i museicapitolini.org

4 TREASURES OF THE

PHARAOHS

TILL 3 MAY 2026

c Everyday from 10am to

8pm

€ entry fee €18

i scuderiequirinale.it

4 RESTITUZIONI 2025

TILL 18 JANUARY 2026

c Tue-Sun 10am-8pm

€ entry fee €10 - 12,5

i palazzoesposizioniroma.it

4 ATTO 1/3: SOTTO LA LUCE

TILL 18 NOVEMBER

c Everyday 12pm-8pm

€ free entrance

i rhinocerosroma.com

ROMEING date

ROMEING 57

NOVEMBER 2025

NOVEMBER 2025

THE PATRON SAINT OF THE BELLE ÉPOQUE: HENRI DE TOULOUSE-LAUTREC

FLORENCE

Until 22 February 2026

Museo degli Innocenti

P.za della SS. Annunziata, 13

Opening Times:

Open daily from 9.30am to 7pm

Tickets: €17,50

museodeglinnocenti.it/en/mostra/toulouse-lautrec

The Patron Saint of the Belle Époque:

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec

A journey through the Paris of the Belle Époque

at Museo degli Innocenti in Florence

Read about all the things to explore and do in Florence on

romeing.it/florence

p

Monica Sharp

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec remains the emblematic artist of the Paris Belle Époque, his works

as instantly recognizable today as they were shocking in their time. Small in stature but vast in

vision, armed with a brush and lithograph, he captured all the light, glitter and grit of Paris at the

end of the 19th century. Toulouse-Lautrec – A Voyage in Paris of the Belle Époque runs from

September 27, 2025 to February 22, 2026, on exhibit at the Museo degli Innocenti in Piazza

Santissima Annunziata.

Few people would hold the gaze of a man so altered, wracked by illness and disease. Born into

a provincial noble family in the south of France, he demonstrated a breathtaking natural gift for

art as a toddler. Toulouse-Lautrec battled the disease that came to be named for him – Toulouse-

Lautrec Syndrome, a rare genetic disorder that left him physically diminutive for all his life. His

parents supported and nourished his gifts, along with his move to Paris to pursue the life he

dreamed of.

Toulouse-Lautrec followed his passions in life even as he was wracked by repeated and grave

health crises. Prior to his artistic career, his first love was cuisine and he reveled in hosting

his friends for elaborate dinners staged by his culinary alter ego, “Monsieur Momo.” His

experimentation in the kitchen was repeated in his art experiments with color, technique, and

style. Influenced by the Japanese prints then in vogue across Europe, Toulouse-Lautrec diluted

oil paint to create semi-transparency, allowing the canvas to show through and contributing to a

sense of spaciousness and immediacy, delighted both himself and the public with the result.

58 ROMEING

ROMEING 59




Toulouse-Lautrec’s signature crachis is a lithographic technique (in French, “spit”) where ink is

spattered from a brush drawn over a screen and onto the printing surface, creating a dusting of

color to achieve atmospheric effects, modulate color, and add texture to the art. Other areas of

the exhibit explain the colors, tools and products used by the artist, showing examples of not only

brushes and pigments but also an entire period lithographic press similar to the one Toulouse-

Lautrec would have used to make his famous posters, on loan for the show from the local Il

Bisonte press in the Palazzo Serristori.

His insecurity about his appearance barred him from the demimonde and Parisian high society

and led to the hills and cobbled streets, the bars and brothels of Montmartre – the quintessential

monde de la nuit of Belle Époque Paris.

Mid-exhibit, patrons are invited to sit at a simulated Montmartre café wallpapered in vintage lifesize

photographs, with miniature bistro tables and chairs, in front of a well-lit stage where videos

of contemporaneous can-can dancers fill the screen. Alas, there is no table service, but if there

were, surely the Tremblement de Terre (the “Earthquake”) would be on the drink list, Toulouse-

Lautrec’s signature cocktail of equal parts absinthe and cognac.

Toulouse-Lautrec took art from life. The further he explored the limits of Parisian nightlife, the

more frequently appeared his renditions of the dancers and performers whom he befriended

along the way: Jane Avril, La Goulue (Louise Weber), May Milton, Marcelle Lender, and his lover,

Suzanne Valadon, along with his best-known patron, Aristide Bruant.

Toulouse-Lautrec suffered tremendously from both disease and alcoholism as he repudiated

love and sought to ease his pain. His last years were spent in and out of hospitals, undergoing

treatments harsh enough to shatter anyone’s confidence. Nonetheless, he continued to create

prodigious works of art, notably his “Au Cirque” series.

Produced by Arthemisia, the exhibit blends aesthetics with approachable scholarship in a

multimedia format. Those who may know Toulouse-Lautrec only from the continuing popularity

of his posters depicting Parisian nightlife receive a basic primer on his facts at the start of the

exhibit, then progress into a gallery of art and decorative art indicative of the Belle Époque,

including graceful furniture and Tiffany lamps. Vintage video makes regular appearances,

transporting the visitor to the streets of Paris at the end of the 19th century with corseted and

bustled women, governesses with their young charges, and men in top hats at the edges of the

Tuileries or the Jardins du Luxembourg.

60 ROMEING

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November 2025 - Romeing Magazine

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