Falstaff Magazin Nordics 1/2025

/ dec–feb 2026

WINE FOOD TRAVEL

AUSTRIA

THE STATE

OF RED WINE

DENMARK

GOURMET

GETAWAYS

BAR GUIDE

THE BEST OF

THE NORDICS

FALSTAFF NORDICS APS | AMALIEGADE 6, 2. TV | 1256 COPENHAGEN, DENMARK

Winter Escapes

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naturally elegant

In 1947, seven growers whom all owned prized

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Timeless, naturally elegant champagnes in perfect balance.

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la réserve brut 375 ml

no 7372 alc 12% 239 sek

blanc de blancs 2018

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vintage brut 2016

no 7867 alc 12% 479 sek

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loving luxury

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PUBLISHERS’ LETTER

WELCOME

TO FALSTAFF NORDICS THE INTERNATIONAL

FLAGSHIP EDITION

DEAR READERS!

It is with great pride and anticipation that we present the very first issue of

Falstaff Nordics – an international flagship for Falstaff – the magazine for

culinary lifestyle, and a celebration of the Nordics and Baltic worlds of wine,

food, spirits, and travel.

From our base in Copenhagen, we are starting a new chapter that connects

this vibrant region to Falstaff’s global community. The Nordics are more than a

destination – they represent a way of life shaped by light, landscape, clarity, and innovation.

Up here, gastronomy is inseparable from nature; design and sustainability

are instinctive; and craftsmanship is a quiet art form.

As part of Falstaff’s growing international network, Falstaff Nordics unites decades

of expertise from our publications in Austria, Germany, Switzerland, Italy and

Slovakia with a distinctly Northern outlook – one that values authenticity, seasonality

and originality.

WOLFGANG M. ROSAM

wolfgang.rosam@falstaff.com

@RosamWolfgang

In this first issue, we travel from Copenhagen to Trondheim, Stockholm to Vilnius,

meeting the chefs, distillers, brewers, winemakers and hospitality leaders who shape

the region’s identity. Together, they tell the story of a dynamic North – where gastronomy

meets craftsmanship, and innovation extends from fine dining and boutique

hotels to craft spirits, fruit wines and pioneering non-alcoholic creations.

Distributed throughout Northern Europe and featured in VIP lounges across the

continent, Falstaff Nordics stands as both a showcase and a bridge – connecting our

readers worldwide to one of the most dynamic culinary and cultural frontiers today.

Welcome to Falstaff Nordics – where the North meets the world.

Photo: Stefan Gergely, Tove Oskarsson Henckel

Skål – Kippis – Skál – Terviseks – Prieka – Sveik

WOLFGANG M. ROSAM

Publisher

TOVE OSKARSSON HENCKEL

Editor-in-Chief

TOVE OSKARSSON HENCKEL

Editor-in-Chief

tove.henckel@falstaff.com

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

11

DECEMBER–FEBRUARY

CONTENTS

28

The Arctic circle offers culinary

delights and singular experiences

found nowhere else.

COVER

FOTO: ERIC MARTIN/LE FIGARO

MAGAZINE/LAIF

COVER:

WINTER ESCAPES

50

Danish hotels and inns are close

to nature, and characterized by

quiet luxury.

62

Fabrizio Ferla crafts dishes rooted in

Nordic soil at the Moment restaurant.

28 WHERE ARCTIC LIGHT MEETS

CULINARY FIRE

How the taste of the Arctic North is

shaped by heritage and culture

44 FOOD FOR THOUGHT

Exploring the cuisine and hospitality of

the Baltic capitals

50 DANISH BLISS

How the Danes perfected the art of

the staycation

58 SKREI FIDELITY

Skrei, Norwegian Arctic winter cod

from the Lofoten archipelago

62 ACIENT TRADITIONS,

NEW FLAVORS

Scandinavian chefs refine ancient

techniques into something new

68 RENEGADE REBORN

Matt Orlando’s cuisine turns conscious

cooking into contemporary art

72 FAMINE TO FEAST

How potatoes revolutionized the

Nordic diet

76 NORTH SEA BOUNTY

Three northern recipes from top

chefs of the island of Sylt

11 EDITORIAL

263 MASTHEAD

274 LAST WORD – INTERVIEW

132

Austria’s best red

wines are as

memorable as they

are diverse.

Photos: Asaf Kilger, Andreas Schoennemann, Moment Restautant, provided

12 falstaff dec–feb 2026

Celebrating Life’s

Finest

Moments

At Heritance Aarah, life’s finest moments are celebrated

with the perfect harmony of fine dining, bespoke

experiences, and a commitment to sustainability.

Embark on an extraordinary dine-around journey across

twelve distinct dining venues. Each experience is

enhanced by intuitive butler service. Relax, explore, and

indulge with the unmatched comfort of our Premium

All-Inclusive offering—where indulge meets purpose in a

Maldivian paradise designed just for you.

www.heritancehotels.com/aarah

DECEMBER–FEBRUARY

96

Careful soil cultivation

ensure the future of the

Champagne appellation.

84 HOW TO ... ENJOY OYSTERS

Serving oysters is easier than you think

92 ESSAY

How the Danes perfected the art of the

open Sandwich

WINE

94 WINE NEWS

Hans Wejnefalk Larsson presents the

latest from the wine world

96 TIMELESS ELEGANCE

Champagne houses cultivate a vibrant

culture that produces effervescent joy

104 THE SPARKLING

WINE TROPHY

Falstaff’s top-rated sparkling wines

108 GUARDIANS OF STYLE

The Champagne Palmer cooperative’s

quest for excellence

110 WINDS OF CHANGE

Italian wines shift towards freshness,

elegance, and finesse

120 A WONDROUS VINE

Riesling needs a location with

exceptional characteristics to thrive

132 RHAPSODY IN RED

Our annual blind tasting to determine

Austria’s best red wines

152 TOUR DE BORDEAUX

A trip to the legendary left bank

around the city of Bordeaux

SPIRITS

162 SPIRITS NEWS

Ludwig Andersson presents the latest

from the world of spirits

166 NORDIC EXCELLENCE

The best of the best from the Falstaff

Bar Guide Nordics 2026

178 HAVE ANOTHER

Malty treasures from Scandinavian

distilleries

186 SPIRIT OF THE NORTH

Aquavit is the liquid heart of Nordic

drinking culture

GOURMET

192 GOURMET NEWS

Tove Oskarsson Henckel presents the

latest from the gourmet world

194 LEONORE ESPINOSA

The new taste of tradition

200 REVIEWS: THE HOT DOZEN

Twelve restaurants put to the test

TRAVEL

210 TRAVEL-NEWS

Regitze Cecile Rosenvinge presents

her travel highlights

212 POCKET WONDERLAND

The High Tatras offer everything you

need for the perfect winter escape

220 THE DOLOMITES – HYPE OF

THE MOMENT

Alto Adige is a winter paradise

234 ALPINE PERFECTION

Austria’s winter sports regions offer

endless bliss

252 THE ART OF CULTURE

Tips for a perfect weekend in Vienna

LIFESTYLE

264 SERIES: ART, POLITICS & FOOD

Juliette Binoche on her fondness for

the culinary arts

272 WATCHES

Even after 25 years, Richard Mille is

still the pinnacle of sports watches

THE NEXT ISSUE OF FALSTAFF WILL BE PUBLISHED ON MARCH 6TH 2026WINE

166

The best bars in the

Nordics, ranked.

178

Scandinavian whisky

makes waves on the

world stage.

212

Slovakia’s High Tatras offers wondrous

winter escapes.

Photos: Roederer, Copenhagen Distillery, Johannes Maxweller, Bachledka Ski&Sun


nordics / INTRO

WONDER ...

Photo: Steve Krull/Getty Images


dec–feb 2026

falstaff

17

nordics / INTRO

BLISS ...

Photo: Thomas M. Barwick INC/Getty Images


dec–feb 2026

falstaff

19

nordics / INTRO

… EUPHORIA

Photo: Getty Images


dec–feb 2026

falstaff

21

introduction / FALSTAFF NORDICS

THE DAWN OF

A NEW ERA

Falstaff Nordics joins a legacy built on taste, craftsmanship and discovery.

BY TOVE OSKARSSON HENCKEL


Photos: Alexandr Spatari/Getty Images, provided

FALSTAFF NORDICS

FEATURE

A look at the culinary landscape

above the Arctic circle, where

scarecity once defined flavor and

silence is the ulitmate luxury.

Wine Food Travel

PAGE

26

PAGE

104

WINE

Falstaff explores and select

some of the finest wines in the

world, from champagne to

Riesling, Austrian Reds and

the very best of Italy.

The first edition of Falstaff was

published in Austria in the

autumn of 1980, laying the

foundation for a success story

that continues to unfold over

four decades later. With its unique

combination of wine, culinary art and

travel, the magazine immediately struck a

chord with readers passionate about the

finer things in life. Now, Falstaff continues

that legacy with a new chapter: Falstaff

Nordics expands the brand’s presence to

the Nordic and the Baltic countries,

introducing their vibrant gourmet culture

to an international audience.

When founders Dr. Helmut Romé and

Hans Dibold launched Falstaff, they

published a mission statement that still

defines the brand: “to deepen the sense of

quality in life.” That commitment remains

unchanged. From the beginning, Falstaff

has dedicated itself to exploring craftsmanship,

authenticity and the joy of taste –

going with the times, but never losing its

essence. Its core themes – food, drink,

travel, and leisure – defined what Falstaff

would become: A guide to refined living,

built on inquisitiveness and style.

FROM MAGAZINE TO

GLOBAL BRAND

A decisive new era began in 2009, when

Wolfgang and Angelika Rosam took the

helm. With an updated layout and a

broader editorial scope – with an emphasis

on luxury travel, fine dining, wine, and

spirits – Falstaff went from successful

regional publication to international

brand. Just one year later, Falstaff

Germany debuted, followed by Switzerland

in 2014 and Italy in 2024, each

edition defined by its own national

character while remaining true to the

brand’s core values.

Today, Falstaff is far more than a

publication. It is a European community

of taste, uniting readers who share an

appreciation for craftsmanship, sustainability

and the art of living well. With a

combined circulation of more than

148,000 copies across the Germanspeaking

world, Falstaff continues to

grow – expanding its reach, audience and

influence.

<

dec–feb 2026 falstaff 23

introduction / FALSTAFF NORDICS

GOURMET

A look at culinary visionaries

from Denmark to Colombia, as

well as the hottest new

restaurants in the Nordics.

PAGE

66

SPIRITS

The best bars in the Nordics

get their time to shine, as does

Scandinavian Whisky and the

perennial northern spirit, akvavit.

FALSTAFF NORDICS –

A TASTE OF THE NORTH

The launch of Falstaff Nordics marks the

latest step in this international journey.

Based in Copenhagen, this new edition

brings together the best of Denmark,

Sweden, Norway, Finland, Iceland, Estonia,

Latvia and Lithuania – regions defined by

clarity, innovation and a deep connection

to nature.

Distributed throughout Northern Europe

and featured in VIP lounges across the

continent, Falstaff Nordics stands as both a

showcase and a bridge – connecting the

North’s unique sensibilities with the wider

world of living well.

A new era begins – and it begins in the

Nordics.

<

PAGE

156

THE STORY OF

JOHN FALSTAFF

<

TRAVEL

Check out the hottest

destinations this winter, from

Alto Adige to Vienna, Tyrol and

the High Tatras.

PAGE

208

Sir John Falstaff remains one of William

Shakespeare’s most dazzling creations

– a figure who embodies both the exuberance

of life and the moral ambiguity

of the eternal rogue. He is as charming

as he is corrupt, as full of personality as

he is of wine. The Bard drew inspiration

from the historical Sir John Fastolfe, a

knight famed for both his appetites and

his less-than-heroic retreat from the

Battle of Patay. Yet in Shakespeare’s

hands, the disreputable soldier became

something far greater: a symbol of wit,

contradiction, and human frailty.

The character of Falstaff captured the

essence of what it means to be gloriously

imperfect – to love, to laugh,

to live without restraint, even as the

consequences cast long shadows. More

than four centuries on, Sir John Falstaff

still strides across the stage, larger than

life, his laughter echoing through time

like a toast to our own humanity.

<

Photo: National Portrait Gallery, London/Scala, provided


Your Luxury Boutique Hotel in the Heart of Vienna

Kaerntner Ring 8 | 1010 Vienna | Austria

www.theamaruis.com

INDULGENCE À LA

SCHEIBLHOFER

Erich Scheiblhofer has crafted a world of

delectable delights in a scenic vineyard near

the Austrian Hungarian border.

The Resort includes the gourmet restaurant Infinity, a very well stocked wine cellar and a gigantic

spa, making it a dream destination for wine aficionados all year round.

Just a short distance from the summer

attractions of the popular Lake Neusiedl,

the tranquil village of Andau is

a jewel set in the Pannonian plains.

If if you wish to experience this very special

area, a favorite of Empress Sissi, there is one

place you can’t miss: The Scheiblhofer winery.

Even before they opened their unique spa

hotel The Resort, which offers excellent cuisine

and an extensive wine list, it drew visitors

all year round from near and far thanks

to the Scheiblhofer family’s warm hospitality

– and, above all, their exceptional wines.

A well-considered portfolio, grapes from

Burgenland‘s three most important wine regions

– Neusiedlersee DAC from the eastern

shore of the lake, Leithaberg DAC from the

western shore, and Mittelburgenland DAC in


WINERY SCHEIBLHOFER

the southwest – and the artistry of the cellar’s

mastermind, Erich Scheiblhofer, who consistently

tickles the taste buds of his large fan

base, are at the heart of the Scheiblhofer’s

world. The wines delight passionate connoisseurs

and novices alike and always leave you

wanting another glass – the best answer to

the question: Does it taste good or not?

»Think big« was one of the mottos of the

gregarious vintner and his family from the

very start – and when you‘re not at the center

of things, you must find other ways to

draw attention. The Scheiblhofers had

already succeeded at that with their winery

alone. But The Resort is their crowning

achievement: A luxury hotel with tasteful

rooms and suites and a 4,000-square-meter

spa area with indoor and outdoor pools,

right by the vineyards.

This is the perfect place to unwind or go

for a workout between wine tastings and

gourmet dinners – the ideal conditions for a

few relaxing days of serene indulgence. The

hotel restaurant, The Infinity, sets new culinary

standards and has been awarded two

toques in the new Gault&Millau Guide. And

the hotel itself equally impressive: The Resort

is the only one in Burgenland to have been

awarded a Michelin Key, a distinction that

stands for the highest quality and an exceptional

ambiance.

Erich Scheiblhofer’s vision of creating a

destination dedicated to the holy trinity of

hedonism – food, drink and travel – in Andau

has become a reality, thanks to his hard work

and excellent team. That‘s why it gets full

marks and a clear recommendation for a

wine tour.

INFO

ADVERTORIAL Pictures: © Steve Haider; provided

Scheiblhofer The Wine

Halbturnerstrasse 1a, 7163 Andau

scheiblhofer.at

Scheiblhofer The Resort

Resortplatz 1, 7163 Andau

theresort.at

Erich Scheiblhofer’s wines

please the palates of countless

wine connoisseurs, who

are always welcome at his

Andau winery.

dec–feb 2026

falstaff 27

nordics / WINTER WONDERLAND

WHERE

ARCTIC

LIGHT

MEETS

CULINARY

FIRE

Remote, peaceful and vast, the Arctic North offers rarities

like reindeer, wild herbs and cloudberries — a quiet winter

wonderland you can taste with every bite.

TEXT BIANCA BRANDON-COX

Photo: Icehotel/Erik Nissen Johansen


At the Icehotel in Jukkasjärvi,

chefs translate the frozen

wilderness into delicate,

luminous flavours.

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

29


W

ith glittering

mountain plateaus,

crystalline cold and

chefs guided by a

culinary philosophy

rooted in nature’s rhythm, the Nordic

winter landscape is emerging as an exclusive

yet unhurried alternative to the ever-popular

Alps. Instead of the familiar ski-resort

bustle, the North offers stillness, warm

hospitality and long, luminous nights –

where skiing and dining merge into one

seamless experience. Through the rise of

so-called Noctourism, visitors can experience

the quiet beauty of darkness and witness

the aurora borealis, bonfires crackling in

the frozen night and that comforting hush

that settles when the snow lies heavy on

the land. The region’s food culture has

become as distinctive as its landscape. Since

the New Nordic Food Manifesto of 2004

called for purity, sustainability and a

genuine sense of place, Scandinavian chefs

have learned to let the seasons speak

through their cooking. In winter, that

means drawing warmth from what the cold

allows – slow-cooked meats, root vegetables

and deep, patient flavors. As a result,

Nordic cuisine today is as varied and

expressive as the land itself: reindeer,

moose, Arctic char, cloudberries and

fermented delicacies all carry the long

craftsmanship traditions and

memories of a life once shaped

NORDIC CUISINE

TODAY IS AS

VARIED AND

EXPRESSIVE AS THE

LAND ITSELF CARRYING

THE LONG

CRAFTMANSHIP

TRADTITIONS.

A rising travel movement,

Noctourism focuses on

night-time experiences

that connect visitors

more deeply

to nature and

atmosphere.

The Northern light Aurora Borealis, is

a natural light phenomenon.

Photos: Asaf Kliger, Frederik Broman, Triple F/Norrland247/ Alexander Piragis/Shutterstock


Located in Arctic Sweden,

Aurora Safari Camp is

the world’s first glamping

destination designed around

the region’s unique northern

climate.

Kalix Löjrom, the

bright orange roe.

by hardship. – as does Kalix

Löjrom, the bright orange roe

that became the first Swedish

product to receive Protected Designation of

Origin status from the EU.

The trend is clear: Travelers are heading

north, where the climate is cooler, the

experience more authentic, the air cleaner

and nature itself sets the tone. It’s a place

to breathe, recharge, and truly savor the

moment and gastronomy.

A TASTE OF PLACE

Here, ingredients aren’t merely sourced –

they are the heirs to a culinary legacy.

Across the far North, food has long been a

matter of endurance, coaxing nourishment

from a frozen land. Generations survived

on what they could hunt,

preserve or ferment for the

winter. Smoking, curing, salting and

drying were not culinary fashions but

strategies of survival – shaping a taste that

remains smoky, earthy, durable and pure.

That deep-rooted knowledge of climate

and scarcity has evolved into a refined

culinary practice – one of simplicity,

integrity and a sense of place. When chef

Magnus Nilsson opened Fäviken in

Sweden’s remote Jämtland mountains, he

changed northern cuisine forever. His vision

of hyperlocal ingredients, ancient techniques

and the resolve to cook only what

the land allows became a blueprint for

modern Nordic cooking. Nilsson drew food

lovers from around the world with

<

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

31


THAT DEEP-ROOTED

KNOWLEDGE OF

CLIMATE AND

SCARCITY HAS

EVOLVED INTO A

REFINED CULINARY

PRACTICE.

<

dishes like freshly sawed marrow bones

and duck-egg ice cream prepared before the

guests’ eyes. Original yet deeply rooted in

the land, Fäviken came to embody an

uncompromising northern cuisine.

Although the restaurant closed in 2019, its

ethos of radical locality continues to shape

Nordic gastronomy – defining how chefs

think about sustainability, authenticity and

craft.

At Lapland Hotels Sky Ounasvaara,

perched high above Rovaniemi,

Finland, this thinking finds clear

expression in Finland’s Young

Chef of the Year 2025, Joel

Manninen, who lets the

surrounding wilderness dictate

Niehku Mountain Villa in

Riksgränsen combines

Arctic adventure with

refined comfort on the

edge of the Scandinavian

mountains.

Set above the treeline in

Rovaniemi, Lapland Hotels

Sky Ounasvaara combines

panoramic mountain

views with contemporary

comfort.

his menu. “We have some of the cleanest

air in the world,” he says. “That purity is

reflected in our ingredients.” In autumn,

mushrooms and berries dominate the plate;

in winter, reindeer and root vegetables take

center stage. His five-course menu includes

sautéed reindeer with mashed Puikula

potatoes, pickled cucumbers and lingonberries

– rustic, honest and deeply northern.

Further west, at Sweden’s Niehku

Mountain Villa, co-owner Jossi Lindblom

has turned a former railway depot into an

Arctic lodge serving straightforward

mountain fare. “Every year, I bring in

moose from my home village of Vittangi

after the autumn hunt,” he explains.

“Several of our team members fish in

the mountain lakes and forage in the

forests – we pickle and preserve

much of it for winter.” Their menu

draws on Kalix Löjrom from the

Bothnian Bay, the forests’ berries

Photos: Mattias Frederiksson (3), Mikael Tuominen, Jani Kärppä/Kota Collective Ltd (2), David Carier


The kitchen at

Niehku Mountain

Villa celebrates

Arctic ingredients

and contemporary

Scandinavian cooking.

and herbs, and the mountains’

game and fish – a vivid portrait of

the region’s richness. The reindeer

tartare with spruce oil has become their

signature, a dish that quietly speaks of the

North.

Cross the border into Norway, and the

story continues at Vauldalen Fjellhotell,

tucked away in the highlands near Røros

– a UNESCO-listed town rooted in

mountain culture. The scent of woodsmoke

greets you at the door, and dinner feels like

coming home. Each dish carries memories

of why it was eaten here for centuries.

Dinner might begin with a reindeer-andlamb

roll from Brekken, followed by

Tjälknöl – moose slow-cooked for twelve

hours and served with chanterelle sauce

and oven-baked potatoes. It’s humble local

cooking, elevated by memory and cooked

with the quiet confidence of generations

who know that flavors grow more intense

in the cold.

<

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

33


<

NATURE’S ESSENCE

The same philosophy extends to the

glass. Across the North, distillers and

vintners are giving a voice to forests,

meadows and berries, bottling the essence

of place with the same precision chefs

bring to the plate.

In Sweden and Finland, berry wines and

botanical infusions have become a point

of pride. Wild blueberries, cloudberries

and sea buckthorn yield small-batch

vintages that carry a bright northern

acidity, while cider producers in the

valleys of Norway and Sweden turn

heritage apples into crisp, mineral

expressions of their cool terroir.

In Trondheim, Norway, the legendary

Britannia Hotel shows how craftsmanship

and heritage come together in liquid form.

Its Britannia Bar is both an institution and

an innovation lab, a place for Executive

Bar Manager Øyvind Lindgjerdet, recently

crowned Norway’s Best Bartender 2025,

to redefine cocktail culture.

At Buustamon in Åre, traditional

craftsmanship and alpine simplicity create a

warm, authentic retreat.

BRITANNIA HOTEL

SHOWS HOW

CRAFTMANSHIP AND

HERITAGE COME

TOGETHER IN LIQUID

FORM.

“It’s about balance – art, history,

nature and a sense of place,” Lindgjerdet

says. His Bleken, named after

Norwegian painter Håkon Bleken and

awarded Norway’s Best Cocktail this

year, captures Britannia’s spirit perfectly:

infused with botanical aquavit, clarified

local butter and flowers from the region,

it exudes timeless elegance, as layered and

expressive as the fjords.

High in Sweden’s Åre mountains,

Buustamons Fjällgård distills its own

spirits and bitters using mountain spring

water and wild herbs. Their Buustasup

aquavit is infused with caraway, juniper

and a hint of birch – robust yet refined,

like the surrounding landscape. The

lodge’s signature cocktail, Buusta Mule,

blends this house spirit with ginger beer

and lime, while their warming bitter, Hojt,

is spiced with liquorice root and saffron

– a fiery echo of the mountain hearth.

Each sip carries the lodge’s rustic spirit:

bold, refreshing and unmistakably Åre.

Photos: Bianca Brandon Cox, EBS Photography (2), Asaf Kliger (2), Rebecca Lundh


Icehotel is the region‘s most

remarkable stays, a luxurious

sanctuary.

THE ICONIC

ICEHOTEL IN

JUKKASJÄRVI,

SWEDEN, IS A

PLACE OF FLEETING

BEAUTY.

Dog-sled, a traditional and sustainable way to

experience the Arctic landscape.

INTO THE WILD

In the fjällen – the Nordic

mountains – architecture works

with, not against, nature. The

region’s most remarkable stays are

never ostentatious but quietly luxurious,

sanctuaries of stillness designed to blend

into their surroundings and awaken the

senses.

The iconic ICEHOTEL in Jukkasjärvi,

Sweden, is a place of fleeting beauty: its

walls are carved from ice taken from the

nearby Torne River and melt back into

water each spring. Its menu celebrates that

transience with dishes served on sculpted

ice plates – Arctic char with frozen dill,

reindeer with lingonberries, and desserts

glazed in cloudberry and snow. Here, even

dining becomes a quiet reminder of how

fleeting beauty can be.

A short flight away, Arctic Bath floats

serenely on Sweden’s Lule River – a

circular composition of timber and glass

awarded a

Michelin Key

in 2025. By

day, guests drift

between sauna and ice

plunge under a seemingly

endless sky; by night, they dine on Norrbotten’s

fish, berries and herbs, transformed

into minimalist masterpieces. It is

Nordic wellbeing distilled – a place where

aesthetics, gastronomy and silence form

something greater than the sum of its parts.

Further north, Octola Private Wilderness

near Rovaniemi, Finland, offers a gentler

vision of the Arctic. Hidden within 700

hectares of pristine forest, its chefs turn

reindeer, Arctic char and wild mushrooms

into dishes that echo the untouched magic

outside. The slow-roasted reindeer fillet

with spruce butter and cloudberry glaze is

paired with birch-sap wine – a liquid

reflection of Lapland. Octola also pioneered

“clean air tourism,” as the world’s

<

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

35


Coffee or broth is often

enjoyed from a handcarved

kåsa, a timeless

link to Sami craft and

wilderness life.

<

first destination to monitor ultrafine air

particles; here, guests quite literally breathe

purity. In an age of sensory overload,

perhaps the rarest comfort of all.

Under the Arctic Sky

In the Nordic fjälls, darkness is not

absence but a singular atmosphere. Night

has its own rhythm – a blue, breathing

presence punctuated by the crackle of

bonfires and the slow dance of the aurora

borealis.

At Aurora Safari Camp on the frozen

Råne River in Sweden’s far north, evenings

unfold like scenes from a dream. Guests

gather around open fires between canvas

tents, sip cocktails made with spruce-shoot

syrup and frozen lingonberries and dine on

Sámi flatbread and reindeer rolls. It’s

wilderness hospitality reimagined – tactile,

intimate, lit by starlight.

In a region where survival was once an

art form, flavor became identity. Centuries

of hardship taught the North that comfort

lies not in abundance but in the ability to

turn simplicity into depth, making the most

of what’s available.

In the Tornedalen valley of Swedish

Lapland, Huuva Hideaway stands as a

quiet example of that truth – a place where

Sámi heritage and northern ingenuity meet.

Family-owned and rooted in the rhythms of

nature, Huuva turns each meal into a slow

ritual: ingredients gathered from forest and

HUUVA HIDEAWAY

IS A PLACE

WHERE SÁMI

HERITAGE AND

NORTHERN

INGENUITY MEET.

river, cooked over open flames

and served in the same landscape

that inspired them.

Destinations like Sweden’s Åre Nature

Studio pick up where Fäviken left off,

hunting, harvesting or fermenting everything

they can. Here, wilderness is not

just inspiration but the true pantry – with

moose and reindeer from nearby hunting

grounds, Arctic char and trout from Lake

Gevsjön. Guests can even combine fine

dining with hunting workshops, turning

each meal into a lesson in heritage,

seasonality and place.

Beneath the Arctic sky, flavors, sounds

and stories come into focus. Whether

around a fire in Tornedalen, a chef’s table

in Jämtland or a mountain inn near Røros,

the essence is the same: respect for nature’s

rhythm and the humility to let it lead the

way. Noctourism and New Nordic cooking

share that quiet conviction – that the real

art lies in awareness, in tasting the land as

it is, and finding beauty where light and

silence meet.

At Huuva Hideawa

every meal

is a slow ritual.

<

Photos: Tina Stafren, Huuva Hideaway, Marcel Siebert

36 falstaff

dec–feb 2026

”Smakar lyx”

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på Systembolaget:

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”Total känsla av lyx”

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Kvalitetsbetyg: 10/10

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”Den främsta av

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Bucket List

”2025 års bästa

non-vintage

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Official Partner:

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Alkohol är

beroendeframkallande.


FOODS OF THE FAR NORTH

The cloudberry, or hjortron,

is one of Lapland’s most

treasured wild ingredients,

found only in northern bogs

and fells.

BERRIES GROWN

IN NORTHERN LIGHT

In the far north, long summer daylight

grants berries a deep, intense flavor.

Forests and meadows offer small,

concentrated blueberries; bright, tart

lingonberries; golden cloudberries; astringent

sloes; and sea buckthorn with

its bright, citrus-like acidity. Rarer still is

the Arctic bramble, with quiet notes of

wild strawberry, raspberry, blackberry,

cinnamon – and a faint hint of gingerbread.

HERBS OF THE HIGHLANDS

The Nordic mountain landscape has

a modest but distinctive plant life,

and certain wild herbs play a quiet,

meaningful role in northern cooking.

Meadowsweet brings a gentle vanilla-and-almond

scent; mountain sorrel

adds clean, green acidity; angelica

carries light tones of anise, fennel, and

celery; and edible lichens appear in traditional

preparations across the region.

GAME OF THE OPEN LANDS

For centuries, Sámi communities – and

other natives of the far north – hunted

their food. Today, reindeer, moose, roe

deer, grouse, hare, and occasionally

bear appear on tables both in simple

rural kitchens and in contemporary

restaurants across the Arctic.

REINDEER – HUMANKIND’S

NORTHERN COMPANION

Reindeer have long provided food,

clothing, shelter materials, and tools

in Sámi culture. The meat is clear and

clean in flavor, lightly nutty and herbal,

with only a gentle game note. Because

it is naturally lean, it benefits from

careful cooking, often served rare and

seasoned sparingly. Smoking brings out

its essence rather than covering it. Reindeer

heart prepared this way is tender

and deeply colored. Suovas — lightly

salted inner round smoked slowly in a

traditional Sámi tent — is eaten sliced or

used in straightforward, hearty stews.

TJÄLKNÖL – A NICE MISTAKE

This chilled roast came about when

a home cook forgot a frozen piece of

meat in the oven overnight — a pleasant

mistake. The next morning it was placed

in brine, and a new style of cold cut

emerged. It is served thinly sliced and

cold, often with potato salad or gratin.

THE FLAVOR OF TREES

Forest flavors have a natural place in

northern cooking. Baltic herring and

freshwater fish may be smoked over

spruce or pine needles, and birch sap

is reduced into syrup or used in breads,

cordials, sparkling drinks, bitters, aquavit,

and cocktails.

CURIOUS NORTHERN FISH

Northern waters offer classic seafood:

gravlax and other cured fish; fermented

surströmming and rakfisk; and whole

dried or smoked fish such as pike, perch,

and whitefish – a particular point of

quiet pride.

<

Text: Jens Linder Photo: Nata Naumovec/Shutterstock

38 falstaff

dec–feb 2026

GRAND HÔTEL STOCKHOLM

GRAND SOLEIL –

A Riviera State of Mind at Grand Hôtel Stockholm

ADVERTORIAL Pictures: provided

For more than 150 years, Grand

Hôtel Stockholm has been the

heart of the city’s culinary scene.

Among its many treasures, Grand

Soleil stands out as a place where time

slows down, the light feels softer, and every

bite carries a touch of sunshine.

The name means big sun in French, and

that’s exactly the feeling it gives. Here, the

spirit of the Riviera meets Stockholm, with

sparkling views of the Royal Palace just

across the water. The menu, created by the

Grand Hôtel kitchen team, brings together

the best of the French and Italian coasts,

fresh ingredients, Mediterranean warmth

and a refined simplicity that invites you to

linger a little longer.

For those who love the charm of everyday

French dining, there’s Eat Like the French –

a comforting Plat du Jour that changes

weekly, served with a small carafe of red or

white wine (non-alcoholic options available)

for 195 SEK.

Served Monday to Friday, from 11:30 to

22:00, perfect for any occasion, whether a

business lunch or a cozy evening dinner.

Winter brings an inviting glow indoors,

while summer transforms Grand Soleil into

Stockholm’s most spectacular terrace by the

water. Whatever the season, it is a place to

pause, enjoy, and feel the light of the Riviera

in the heart of the city.

INFO

grandhotel.se



High above the Arctic

cirlce, the auroa borealis is

the main attraction of the

ongoing noctourism trend.

ADRESSES

The Lapland Hotel Sky Ounasvaara is located

right next to the Ounasvaara winter sports

center.

FINLAND

OCTOLA PRIVATE WILDERNESS

A private, design-forward Arctic sanctuary hidden

deep within the forests of Finnish Lapland. Octola

blends bespoke luxury with nature’s purity —guests

dine on wild ingredients and breathe some of the

cleanest air in the world.

The exact location remains undisclosed.

T: +358 44 5151796, octola.com

LAPLAND HOTELS SKY OUNASVAARA

Set high above Rovaniemi with sweeping views of

snow-covered forests, this hotel combines contemporary

comfort with Lapland’s culinary soul. Expect

reindeer dishes, local produce and warm northern

hospitality under the Arctic sky.

Juhannuskalliontie, 96400 Rovaniemi

T: +358 16 3234300, laplandhotels.com

SANTA CLAUS VILLAGE

Rovaniemi’s most iconic year-round attraction, where

visitors cross the Arctic Circle, meet Santa in his

official residence and send postcards from the Main

Post Office – a magical celebration of eternal Christmas

spirit.

Tähtikuja 1, 96930 Rovaniemi

T: +358 16 0531340, santaclausvillage.info

In the Icehotel you stay in a hotel made of ice –

a unique Arctic holiday.

ARCTIC TREEHOUSE HOTEL

A designer hideaway where modern Nordic

architecture meets Arctic serenity. Glass-walled

suites offer panoramic forest views, while Restaurant

Rakas serves refined, nature-inspired

Lapland cuisine.

Tarvantie 3, 96930 Arctic Circle (Rovaniemi)

T: +358 50 5176909, arctictreehousehotel.com

SWEDEN

ICEHOTEL

The world’s first hotel made entirely of ice and

snow – rebuilt each winter from the frozen Torne

River, and now featuring the year-round Icehotel

365. A masterpiece of art, nature and impermanence.

Marknadsvägen 63, 981 91 Jukkasjärvi

T: +46 980 66800, icehotel.com

NIEHKU MOUNTAIN VILLA

A former railway depot turned award-winning

Arctic retreat, Niehku combines mountain adventure

with refined gastronomy – featuring local

game, fish, and foraged ingredients.

Lokvändarvägen 20, 981 94 Riksgränsen

T: +46 980 43050, niehku.com

<

Photos: Octola Lodge, Jani Kärppä/Kota Collective Ltd, Karl&Moa

40 falstaff

dec–feb 2026


<

HUUVA HIDEAWAY

A family-run retreat in Tornedalen where Sámi

tradition meet modern Nordic comfort. Meals are

prepared over open fire using ingredients from the

surrounding forest and river.

Liehittäjä 28, 957 96 Övertorneå

T: +46 70 671 1105, huuvahideaway.com

AURORA SAFARIS

An intimate Arctic camp on the frozen Råne River

offering amazing views of the northern lights, wilderness

dining and firelit hospitality in luxury tents.

Gamla byavägen 19, 961 97 Gunnarsbyn

T: +46 72 925 8726, aurorasafaris.com

ARCTIC BATH

A floating wellness retreat on the Lule River,

combining striking architecture with slow living,

spa rituals and Norrbotten-inspired cuisine.

Ramdalsvägen 10, 961 78 Harads

T: +46 928 703040, arcticbath.se

TREEHOTEL

Architectural treehouses suspended above the

forest canopy – a fusion of playfulness, sustainability

and northern design.

Edeforsvägen 2A, 961 78 Harads

T: +46 928 10300, treehotel.se

COPPERHILL MOUNTAIN LODGE

A sleek ski-in/ski-out design hotel in Åre with

panoramic mountain views, Nordic spa, and a

focus on local, seasonal cuisine.

Åre Björnen 62, 837 97 Åre

T: +46 647 14300, copperhill.se

This elegant hotel, dating back to

1870, is a central meeting place

with a rich history.

Buustamons Fjällgård is a charming, cozy, and

authentic mountain lodge

BUUSTAMONS FJÄLLGÅRD

A classic mountain lodge with its own distillery,

serving reindeer dishes and homemade aquavit –

rustic charm at 732 meters above sea level.

Buustamon 142, 837 98 Åre

T: +46 647 531750, buustamonsfjallgard.se

ÅRE NATURE STUDIO

A culinary destination where terroir meets storytelling

– guests dine on wild ingredients sourced from

nearby forests, lakes and mountains.

Tångböle 727, 837 71 Duved

T: +46 70 576 9087, arenaturestudio.com

FJÄLLPUBEN

A beloved Åre restaurant where local flavors meet

a relaxed alpine atmosphere – think elk, trout and

cloudberries with a modern twist.

Årevägen 72B, 837 51 Åre

T: +46 647 50240, fjallpuben.se

GRANEN HOTELL & RESTAURANG

An intimate design hotel and restaurant in central

Åre, blending alpine charm with contemporary

Nordic dining.

Tottvägen 127, 837 51 Åre

T: +46 647 51560, aregranen.se

HÅLLFJÄLLET

A historic mountain lodge surrounded by pristine

wilderness, offering cross-country skiing, sauna

experiences and hearty local food.

Hållfjället 220, 837 96 Undersåker

T: +46 647 690 466, hallfjallet.se

FÄVIKEN’S LANTHANDEL

A modern countryside artisan food store inspired

by Fäviken’s philosophy of local produce, honest

flavors, and a deep sense of place.

Byvägen 107, 837 96 Undersåker

T: +46 647 3007

favikenslanthandel.se

NORWAY

ØYNA KULTURLANDSKAPSHOTELL

A design-driven eco-hotel overlooking the Trondheimsfjord,

known for its panoramic restaurant and

deep connection to the surrounding farmland.

Øynavegen 60, 7670 Inderøy

T: +47 97 33 7301, oyna.no

BRITANNIA HOTEL

A historic grand hotel and Michelin Key property in

Trondheim, blending timeless elegance with

modern Nordic cuisine and world-class hospitality.

Dronningens gate 5, 7011 Trondheim

T: +47 73 80 0800, britannia.no

VAULDALEN FJELLHOTELL

A heritage mountain inn near Røros offering warm,

traditional hospitality and dishes rooted in centuries-old

recipes from the highlands.

Mellomriksveien 912, 7370 Brekken

T: +47 72 41 3100, vauldalen.no

<

Photos: Viktor Ohlin, EBS Photography, Britannia Bar


HENRIETTE STADTHOTEL VIENNA

A SUSTAINABLE HOME

AWAY FROM HOME

For Verena Brandtner-Pastuszyn and Georg Pastuszyn, sustainability and

circular living are more than just buzzwords: Their Henriette Stadthotel

in Vienna has followed the economy for the common good for years.

ADVERTORIAL Photos: © Henriette Stadthotel/Patrick Johannsen Fotografie | © Henriette Stadthotel/Supersusi.com | © Der schöne Ernst/Supersusi.com

Circular Living room with 120-year-old parquet flooring and a washbasin made from old refrigerators. Henriette CEOs Verena Brandtner-Pastuszyn and

Georg Pastuszyn. Bar ‘Der schöne Ernst’ (The Handsome Ernst).

FALSTAFF Ms. Brandtner-Pastuszyn, your

ambition is to make the Henriette Stadthotel

a home away from home – when did

you realize that would mean embracing

circular living?

VERENA BRANDTNER-PASTUSZYN

Quite recently. A home is where you feel

comforted, and gain strength for the day.

This includes warm-hearted people, good

organic food, and a cozy atmosphere –

something we strive for with our interiors

and carefully selected materials. Circular

living is, in fact, the logical conclusion of

our journey: our first steps included chemical-free

cleaning and natural bedding,

among others.

How do you adapt this principle to day-today

hotel operation? First, you need to be

mindful of circular use. For example, our

boxes are simple metal frames with flexible

plug connections: If we no longer need

them, they can be turned into shelves. And

the manufacturer takes old panels back to

make new furniture.

You used several unusual pieces for your

renovations – like parquet floors from a

120-year-old office building, or basins

made from recycled refrigerators. Which

impressed you the most? Both are among

my absolute favorites. The floors because

their quality is incredible and very hard

to find today. And the basins surprised

me with their terrazzo character and bright

colors.

How do you ensure your concept transcends

trends and truly reflects your values?

We have followed the principles of the economy

for the common good for years and

only feel successful when business is up

and we can do good for people and the

planet. We have implemented around 200

sustainable practices, each with a measurable

impact. For us, it’s about doing good,

bringing joy, and doing no harm.

Finally: Your new bar »Der schöne Ernst«

(Handsome Ernst) is a haven of Viennese

joie de vivre. How can this lightheartedness

fit with the gravity of your sustainability

mission? We do what we do not because we

want to be sustainable, but because it

makes sense to us. We do not have a »sustainability

mission« per se. To us, sustainability

means abundance, and enjoyment.

INFO

hotelhenriette.at

dec–feb 2026

falstaff 43

nordics / BALTICS

FOOD FOR

THOUGHT

The Baltics are far from monolithic – while some differences are subtle, each has

their own unique character. Falstaff traveled through all three capitals to explore

their distinct food and hospitality.

TEXT AIVAR HANSON

Photo:: Latvia.Travel/Aleksejs Bergmanis


Centrally located among the

three Baltic capitals, Riga

airport is well connected to

the rest of the world.

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

45

nordics / BALTICS

Tallinn is architecturally

diverse, with a medieval Old

Town, baroque jewels like

Kadriorg Palace (pictured),

and ultra-modern buildings.

The Baltic nations of Estonia,

Latvia, and Lithuania hold

an interesting position: While

fully integrated into the EU

and other western organizations,

they are still somewhat unknown,

even among fellow Europeans. This is a

pity: Situated right on the crossroads of

Scandinavia and Eastern Europe with a

smattering of German influence courtesy of

the medieval Hanseatic League, they are

rich in history and cultural heritage, and

anyone willing to explore the three will be

greatly rewarded.

The three capitals of Tallinn, Riga and

Vilnius each have their own individual

style. Sitting opposite Helsinki on the other

side of the Gulf of Finland, it’s no surprise

that Tallinn feels strongly Nordic, with a

charming medieval Old Town listed as a

UNESCO World Heritage Site. Riga, on the

other hand, is defined by one of the largest

concentrations of Art Noveau buildings in

Europe, supplemented by medieval

German-Baltic townhouses and 20th

century modernism, making for an

appealing, eclectic mix. Southernmost

Vilnius feels warmer, with many references

Tallin Restaurant Fotografiska

serves food and drinks inspired by

photograpic exhibitions.

to its past as part of the Polish-Lithuanian

commonwealth – both culturally and

architecturally, as the city is centered

around an impressive ensemble of baroque

buildings. However, this impression is only

skin deep: A week-long trip is just right to

experience the full spectrum of what the

Baltics have offer.

Train connections between the three

countries are infrequent, slow and inconvenient.

Air traffic, however, works quite

well, but the most convenient way to get

around remains by road. Driving a rental

car or taking an overland bus does not take

much longer than flying if you consider the

time spent in airports: The journey from

Tallinn to Riga takes 4.5 hours, while the

journey from Riga to Vilnius takes 4

hours.

EAT LIKE A LOCAL

As soon as you arrive in each capital, you

will notice a distinct local color that sets

each apart. Estonians in Tallinn tend to

keep to themselves with Nordic restraint,

while larger Riga is bustling with cosmopolitan

vibes, with Latvians are often more

friendly and willing to chat. Finally, Vilnius

awaits as a sprawling, green city where the

pace of life is more relaxed, with numerous

outdoor cafés and terraces beckoning – if

the weather allows.

To gain insight into the local food

culture, it’s best to befriend some locals, as

Baltic gastronomy rarely serves its own

regional delicacies. Home cooking is still

very much served at home, with restaurants

more for celebrating special occasions.

Local markets do however offer a

comprehensive overview of what’s popular.

In Riga, the Central Market is located right

next to the bus station and is a great place

to grab a bite, with numerous traditional

Photos: Kaupo Kalda, Laurie Iaan, Grand Palce Hotel, Dzeina Saulite (2), Latvia.Travel


The Hotel Grand Palace in Riga is a

popular destination for history lovers,

foodies and drink connoisseurs.

Head chef Timofei

Monahhov at the Seasons

restaurant of the Riga Hotel

Grand Palace crafts dishes

inspired by paintings.

delicacies available to on the spot. A great

example is Perons Nr. 1, where all food is

sold by weight rather than by portion. Ask

for Kurzeme Stroganov – similar to the

world-renowned standard, this version uses

pork instead of beef and contains sour

cream and pickled cucumbers.

Vilnius also boasts some decades-old

market halls, supplemented by the recently

opened Senatorių Pasažas (Senators’

Arcade). With its many restaurants, cafés

and wine bars, it’s ideal for culinary

exploration,with abundant take-away

options available.

You will likely find cepelinai (potato

dumplings): a national dish of Lithuania;

they are usually filled with minced meat

and are typically served with bacon and

sour cream, not unlike pierogi.

The most popular market in Tallinn is

Balti Jaama Turg, conveniently located next

to the railway station. The choices here are

myriad, but traditional local food often

proves elusive: Estonians jokingly refer to

hamburgers as their national dish due to

their enormous popularity. If you’d like to

put that to the test, try VLND Burger,

which claims to offer the best in Estonia.

However, wild game is highly popular in

Estonia during winter, and one of the best

places in Tallinn to enjoy boar or venison is

Humalakoda, a craft beer brewery with its

own restaurant. This allows you to taste

another local mainstay: Craft beer is a

source of pride for all three Baltic countries,

and there are countless different

producers and even more labels on offer.

GETTING

AROUND

BUS TICKETS

Numerous local and international car

rentals serve the Baltics. Several bus

companies operate between Tallinn, Riga,

and Vilnius. Lux Express offers the most

comfortable buses, while Flix Bus is the

best known. There are 10 Lux Express

connections between Riga and Tallinn and

six between Riga and Vilnius every day.

Lux Express: luxexpress.eu

Flix Bus: flix.com

<

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

47

nordics / BALTICS

Nineteen18 is one of the

best dining experiences that

Lithuania has to offer.

Nineteen18 is one of the

best dining experiences

that Lithuania has to offer.

<

TASTY SOUVENIRS

Another world class Baltic product are the

various artisanal berry wines and ciders:

Strong and full of character, once you’ve

tried them, you will certainly want to take

some home. Latvia, for instance, offers

Rizhskiy samogon (Riga’s moonshine) or

Abava berry wines and ciders. From

Lithuania, try Šušvės mead or Geri Metai

rowanberry wine. And Estonia produces

Tuletorni craft beer, Tori Siidritalu ciders,

berry wines, and white wine made with

Solarise grapes.

However, if your souvenir must be food,

the choices are more limited. All three

nations lack a strong culinary identity, as

small countries greatly influenced by their

neighbors and historical peculiarities:

The best way to

travel from one

Baltic capital

to another is by

bus. Lux Express

offers the most

comfortable

ride.

Tallinn‘s cuisine, for instance, has been

formed by its past as a medieval Hanseatic

city, with numerous northern German

favorites like pickled herring and sausages

offered in local variations.

However, each country does have at

least one distinct dish, something special

that even their closest neighbors do not

have. In Lithuania, this is šakotis, or tree

cake, which is baked on a rotating spit in

an oven or over an open fire. Latvia has

gotina, a candy made from milk and

butter. And one of Estonia‘s favorite

foods is vürtsikilu (spiced Baltic

sprat): Served on black rye, it can

also be purchased in canned form.

Speaking of rye: Estonia boasts

numerous different types of bread,

with the newest and most fashionable

being Aarde Pagari – a delectable

cross betwen sourdough and dark

bread. Additionally, Tallinn’s marzipan is

worthy of note – a local delicacy since

Hanseatic days, they’ve had centuries to

perfect it. But whichever delicacy strikes

your fancy, the real treat is what you

discovered – with so much to offer, the

Baltics won’t be a well-kept secret much

longer.

Photos: Go Vilnius, Lux Express (2), Ertilo Namas Restaurant (2)


ADDRESSES

HOTELS

Hotels in the Baltics offer consistently good value,

are well run, and offer a wide range of choices. Many

operate restaurants that are among the best in town:

VILNIUS

PACAI

This historic hotel in the Old Town is part of the Relais

& Chateaux chain and combines the elegance

of bygone times with modern comfort.

Didžioji 7, hotelpacai.com

GRAND HOTEL VILNIUS

A timeless, iconic luxury hotel renowned for its

superlative service.

Universiteto g. 14, grandhotelvilnius.com

STIKLIAI HOTEL

A historic hotel in the Old Town is part of the Relais

& Chateaux hotel chain where the elegance of

bygone times is combined with modern comforts.

Gaono st. 7, stikliai.com

RIGA

A22

A modern hotel in the Art Nouveau style typical of

Riga, just outside the city center. Suitable for those

who appreciate top-level comfort and good food.

Ausekļa iela 22

a22hotel.com

GRAND PALACE

Formerly the Latvian Central Bank, this boutique

hotel is the very lap of historic luxury. The restaurant‘s

head chef serves unique dishes inspired by

famous works of art.

Pils iela 12

grandpalaceriga.com

LE DOME

With just 15 rooms, this tiny boutique hotel boasts

an impressive roof terrace and a private spa, located

in a centuries-old building in Riga‘s Old Town.

4 Miesnieku st,

domehotel.lv

TALLINN

THE BURMAN HOTEL

Exclusive and historic, this boutique hotel has a

small casino, three different restaurants and its

own bakery in Tallinn‘s Old Town.

Rataskaevu tn 7

theburmanhotel.com

A22 is an Art Noveau jewel typical of Riga,

offering supreme comfort and cuiine.

NUNNE BOUTIQUE HOTEL

A modern accommodation in Tallinn‘s Old Town

built right into the medieval city wall.

Nunne 14, nunne.ee

RADISSON COLLECTION HOTEL TALLINN

Located in the heart of Tallinn and decorated by

local Estonian designers, this hotel is one of the

best in the country.

3 Ravala St, radissonhotels.com

RESTAURANTS

VILNIUS

NINETEEN18

Here, produce from local farms is transformed into

Lithuania‘s finest menu.

Senatorių Pasažas, Dominikonų st. 11

+370 608 08950, nineteen18.lt

DEMO RESTAURANT

A café by day and a restaurant by night, chef-owner

Tadas Eidukevitcius serves up some of Lithuania‘s

most creative dishes.

T. Ševčenkos g. 16A

+370 (666) 88 668, demoloftas.lt

ERTLIO NAMAS

In a historic building that once belonged to a

master craftsman, dishes inspired by centuries-old

recipes are prepared using modern techniques.

Šv. Jono g. 7

T: +370 637 33300

ertlionamas.lt

ETNO DVARAS

There are seven Ethno Manor restaurants all over

the city, decorated in traditional style and serving

dishes honoring Lithuanian heritage.

etnodvaras.lv

RIGA

MAX CEKOT KITCHEN

One of Latvia‘s most talented chefs serves his signature

dishes in a former woodworking factory.

Jelgavas iela 42

+371 20 112 102

maxcekot.com

MILDA

Fine dining restaurants serving Baltic fare are

still uncommon, even in their home countries.

Currently, this may be the only one of its kind

serving authentic Latvian cuisine.

Kungu iela 8

T: +371 25 713 287

restoransmilda.lv

FERMA

Their open kitchen allows you to watch as mainly

local ingredients are transformed into intricate,

thoughtful dishes.

Valkas iela 7, Centra rajons

+371 22009000, fermarsestorans.lv

LIDO

This chain of self-service restaurants offers a

wide selection of traditional Latvian dishes.

lido.lv

TALLINN

O2

Estonian cuisine with an Asian touch. Head chef

Martin Meikas is an authority on local cuisine.

Maakri 23a, Neutra Torn

+372 58 020 020, O2restoran.ee

FOTOGRAFISKA

Located in a photographic art center, this gem

offers dishes sourced from their own farm,

accompanied by an excellent wine list.

Telliskivi 60a-8

+372 5192 6307, tallinn.fotografiska.com

RADO

A restaurant in Tallinn‘s Old Town that is a proud

practitioner of “from market to table”

Vene 7

+372 5858 8995, radorestoran.ee

KOLU KÕRTS

An old roadside inn on the grounds of the Estonian

Open Air Museum, Kolu Körts specializes in

authentic national cuisine.

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12

+372 5649 118, evm.ee

<

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nordics / DENMARK

DANISH

Long before staycations became a trend, Danes had mastered the art of

getting away. This deeply rooted tradition still shapes the nation’s hotels and

inns today: understated, nature-bound and quietly luxurious.

TEXT JESPER UHRUP

The Danish countryside — where

crisp sea air meets quiet beaches and

charming country inns offer truly cosy

weekend retreats.

Photo: Ditlevsen/Shutterstock

50 falstaff

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BLISS

dec–feb 2026

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51

nordics / DENMARK

Simon Juel Petersen, head

chef, and Kasper Tind

Hasse, managing director,

at Falsted Kro.

WITH ITS WALLED

KITCHEN GARDEN,

REFINED CUISINE AND

GLOWING SENSE OF

HYGGE, FALSTED KRO

QUICKLY CAME TO

EMBODY THE CHARM

OF THE DANISH

COUTRYSIDE, SERVED

ON AN PLATE.

For such a

small

country,

Denmark holds a

remarkable variety of

landscapes – windswept coasts, rolling

fields, tranquil islands and wooded hills,

each drawing those looking for peace,

pleasure, and inspiration for generations.

There are few pleasures greater than

stepping inside when the cold bites, the

wind howls, and twilight settles in – to be

greeted by the crackle of a fireplace and

the embrace of deep, soft armchairs. That,

in essence, is the spirit of the Danish

winter getaway.

REDEFINING

HOSPITALITY

Nowhere captures this

spirit quite like the scenic

island of Funen, with its orchards,

half-timbered villages, and meadows that

roll softly to the sea. Even in winter, the

landscape feels mild and welcoming.

It was here that Lene and Sven Grønlykke

transformed a dilapidated roadside inn

originally built in 1744 by renovating it

and hiring French chefs in 1971. The result

was nothing short of revolutionary: Until

then, Denmark’s many country inns were

places to eat – but not to dine, their menus

dominated by hearty fare that often relied

Photos: Falsled Kro/The Travel Book (4), Anders Schoennemann (3)


on frozen and canned goods.

With its walled kitchen garden

supplying fresh ingredients,

refined Franco-Danish cuisine and

glowing sense of hygge, Falsled

Kro quickly came to embody the

charm of the Danish countryside,

served on a plate.

For decades, Falsled Kro was one of the

very few true gourmet getaways outside

Copenhagen. Only over the last few

decades did more destinations emerge as

Danish gastronomy blossomed under the

New Nordic wave. Old inns and seaside

hotels like Ruths Hotel, Henne Kirkeby

Kro, Munkebo Kro found a new lease on

life – and, for the first time, these destinations

stayed open year-round.

Winter’s ingredients now shape their

menus: game and wild mushrooms, often

cooked over open fire, are served with rich,

dark sauces and earthy root vegetables.

Denmark’s 7,000-kilometre coastline

ensures that fish and seafood are at their

very best in winter, yet traces of summer

linger: preserves from the kitchen garden

– berries, fruits, and vegetables – find their

way onto the table, and the apple brandy

served by the iconic fireplace at Falsled Kro

is comes from an orchard just outside the

window.

Chef-owner Paul Cunningham

and head chef Alan Bates

carry forward Henne Kirkeby

Kro’s spirit of creativity,

warmth, and a deep respect

for nature’s rhythm.

DUNES TO MUSEUMS

In summer, Skagen – especially Old Skagen,

home to Ruths Hotel – is one of Denmark’s

most visited spots. The small fishing village

has long attracted both visitors and artists

with its unique light, a legacy that endures

in the preserved homes of painters like

Holger Drachmann and the Krøyers, and in

the Skagen Museum, where masterpieces

depicting the area hang.

In winter, Skagen is wild and windswept

– and blissfully quiet. Long walks along the

beach or across the Råbjerg Mile dunes

stimulate both appetite and spirit.

Further southeast, the landscape softens

into the gentle curves of Mols Bjerge, a

national park of forests, fields and glittering

coves. At its heart lies Molskroen,

which serves modern Danish cooking

shaped by the seasons. From here, the city

of Aarhus is within easy reach, offering

culture in abundance – from the ARoS Art

Museum to the Moesgaard Museum,

<

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53

nordics / DENMARK

TO TRAVEL THROUGH

DENMARK IS TO

EXPERIENCE SUBTLE

CONTRASTS AND

ENDURING CHARM.

Svogerslev Kro is housed in a historic postal inn

dating back to the 18th century.

At Svogerslev Kro, timeless Danish flair meets fresh Nordic fare.

<

home to the 2,000-year-old Grauballe

Man, the world’s best-preserved bog body.

At Christmas, the open-air museum Den

Gamle By transforms into one of Denmark’s

most enchanting festive attractions,

all lights and yuletide cheer.

BIRDS AND KINGS

The mood changes once more as the road

turns westward towards the North Sea.

Here the horizon widens, the air tastes of

salt, and the land feels gloriously open.

Henne Kirkeby Kro stands as a testament

to nature’s raw beauty – vast skies, long

horizons, and abundant birdlife.

Behind the whitewashed walls of this

former roadside inn lies one of Denmark’s

most extraordinary kitchens – holder of

two Michelin stars and surrounded by a

vast garden that keeps it supplied all year.

Once beloved by the renowned Danish

“bird painter” Johannes Larsen (1867–

1961), Henne Kirkeby Kro remains faithful

to its origins: rustic, wild, and deeply

Danish.

In Zealand’s heartland,

Svogerslev Kro has revived the

classic Danish roadside inn with

modern flair, courtesy of chef Peter

Møller. Just outside Roskilde and a

stone’s throw from its UNESCO-listed

Cathedral where Denmark’s kings and

queens rest, its rustic charm is supplemented

by flame-broiled pepper steaks

served tableside and a touch of French

inspiration. Nearby lies the Viking Ship

Museum, a proud testament to Denmark’s

seafaring past.

FJORDS AND ISLANDS

While many provincial gourmet destinations

can feel sleepy off-season, Præstø

defies the pattern: The town remains lively

year-round, its setting by Præstø Fjord both

peaceful and picturesque. Here, Hotel

Frederiksminde offers a romantic retreat,

replete with a Michelin-starred restaurant

serving seasonal local produce from

fjord-caught fish to garden herbs.

And then, to the east jutting out of the

Baltic Sea, Bornholm stands apart – an

island of cliffs and coves, sunlight and

storms. More than half a million visitors

arrive each summer, but in the quieter

months, the island belongs to those who

seek solitude and sea air. The cold sea

delays summer’s warmth, but also grants

the island a long, mild autumn – and

sometimes a spectacularly stormy winter.

For years, Bornholm’s hotels closed once

the tourists departed, but that has changed.

The famed Kadeau sparked a gastronomic

renaissance in 2007, turning Bornholm into

a year-round destination for fine dining

and coastal serenity. At Nordlandet, a

lovingly restored boutique hotel overlooking

the sea, the atmosphere is pure bliss:

Nordic design, warm light, a bistro-style

menu built on local produce, and a wine

list that ranks among the island’s finest.

To travel through Denmark is to

experience subtle contrasts and enduring

charm – where every landscape has its own

rhythm, and escaping from it all has

become a cherished art. Here, hospitality

stems from history and soil, light and

weather. Each inn, each island, each table

tells a story – proof that in Denmark, the

simple pleasure of getting away has always

been a way of coming home.

<

Photos: Svogerslev Kro (3)


BERLIN SERIES

Symbiosis of nostalgia & modernity.

nordics / DENMARK

SELECTED COUNTRY RETREATS

HENNE KIRKEBY KRO, WEST JUTLAND

A quiet revelation on the wild North Sea

coast. Behind the façade of an 18th-century inn lies

a bold and beautiful retreat, its interiors filled with

Danish design and modern art. Surrounded by an

immense kitchen garden, the two-star restaurant

creates poetic dishes grounded in nature and

crafted with precision.

Strandvejen 234, 5864 Henne

hennekirkebykro.dk

RUTHS HOTEL, SKAGEN

A century-old icon at Denmark’s northern tip,

where the Skagerrak and Kattegat meet beneath

ever-changing skies. The hotel combines classic

coastal elegance with modern comfort, offering

both a Michelin-recommended gourmet restaurant

and the beloved Ruths Brasserie. Here, candlelight

seafood dinners meet the quiet rhythm of the dunes.

Hans Ruths Vej 1, 9990 Skagen

ruths-hotel.dk

MOLSKROEN, EBELTOFT

At the foot of Mols Bjerge National Park,

Molskroen blends timeless hospitality with

refined Danish cuisine. Its Michelin Key distinction

speaks to a perfect balance of comfort and

culinary art. Guests can enjoy a signature tasting

menu or a relaxed afternoon tea in the fireside

lounge, with views of fields rolling down to the sea.

Hovedgade 16, Femmøller Strand, 8400 Ebeltoft

molskroen.dk

FALSLED KRO, FUNEN

Romance, history and fine dining come

together in this 1744 country inn, the only five-star

hotel outside Copenhagen and among the first to

earn the Michelin Key. The kitchen draws on classic

Nordlandet, a refined bistro kitchen

led by Anne Bruun Jessen.

and one of the island’s finest wine lists.

French technique, elevated by seasonal produce

from its own gardens. Few places express Danish

hygge with such elegance.

Assensvej 513, 5642 Millinge

falsledkro.dk

HOTEL FREDERIKSMINDE, PRÆSTØ

Overlooking the calm waters of Præstø

Fjord, this elegant hotel offers a sense of timeless

tranquility. Its Michelin-starred restaurant is one

of Denmark’s most admired, blending creativity

with classical finesse. The atmosphere is intimate,

romantic and deeply rooted in the surrounding

landscape.

Klosternakken 8, 4720 Præstø

frederiksminde.com

Henne Kirkeby kro i beautifully

situated by the North Sea coast.

NORDLANDET, BORNHOLM

High above the Baltic Sea, the former Hotel

Romantik has been transformed into a modern

boutique hideaway. With panoramic ocean views,

a refined bistro kitchen led by Anne Bruun Jessen,

and one of the island’s finest wine lists, it captures

the wild serenity of Bornholm in every detail.

Strandvejen 68, 3700 Allinge-Sandvig

hotelnordlandet.com

SVOGERSLEV KRO, ROSKILDE

Tradition meets modern bistro spirit at this revived

roadside inn near Roskilde. Its rustic dining rooms

glow with warmth, while dishes like flambéed

pepper steak or smørrebrød at lunch channel Denmark’s

culinary heritage. A relaxed, family-friendly

stop just steps from royal and Viking history.

Svogerslev Hovedgade 45, 4000 Roskilde

svogerslevkro.dk

<

Photos: Anders Schoennemann, Nordlandet (2)


95–100 Points 90 – 94 Points 85 – 89 Points 80 – 84 Points

The taste of Mosel!

Meet 25 Mosel producers at

Cool Climate Wine Summit

Copenhagen, Jan 9-11

WINE FROM HEROES

For 2,000 years, Mosel winegrowers work with devotion at dizzying heights on steep slopes.

We cultivate our steepest vineyard sites by hand, creating Riesling wines of stunning delicacy.

From fruity Kabinett to dry crus and noble Auslese.

For more information contact Moselwein e.V., Germany, info@weinland-mosel.de

www.weinland-mosel.de

nordics / NORWAY

Traditional dried stockfish from

the Lofoten archipelago enjoys

Protected Geographical Indication

(PGI).

NORWAY

SKREI FIDELITY

The mountainous Lofoten archipelago is famed for both its rugged

landscape and a storied delicacy: Skrei, Norwegian Arctic winter cod.

TEXT LISA ARNOLD

Y

ou’ll find it every winter on

the menus of upscale fish

restaurants the world over:

skrei, also known as winter

cod (Gadus morhua). But

what makes it so special? Unlike “normal”

cod from the North Atlantic and

its smaller cousins from the Baltic Sea,

they live above the Arctic circle in the

icy Barents Sea. As soon as skrei reaches

maturity after five to seven years, they

migrate south to spawn in the waters off

the northern Norwegian coast, where the

Gulf Stream ensures a stable water temperature

of seven degrees Celsius. This journey

of over a thousand kilometers takes

place between January and April and

makes their meat particularly firm. Fillets

are so tender that they fall apart under

the fork, and skrei tongue is considered a

delicacy when fried.

The largest skrei (which means “wanderer”

in Norwegian) can be found in the

waters around the Lofoten Islands, and the

neighboring Vesterålen Islands. The name

‘Lofoten’ translates as “lynx‘s paw” and

refers to the shape of the archipelago, which

consists of around 80 islands and juts out

into the Norwegian Sea. The largest and

The oldest glassworks in

northern Norway (Glasshytta

Vikten) are located on the

island of Vikten.

easternmost island is called Austvågøya

and has the town Svolvær, the only town

on the islands with just under 5,000 inhabitants.

In addition, one of Norway’s 18 national

tourist routes (Nasjonal turistveg

Lofoten) begins at the northeastern tip

of Austvågøya, by the Raftsundet strait

Photos: Ruben M Ramos/Shutterstock Lisa Arnold (2), Dan Mariner (2)


that separates the Lofoten and Vesterålen

archipelagos. The 230-kilometer route

connects numerous islands, towns, and

attractions. Halfway along the route is the

Lofotr Viking museum, and at the very end,

the village of Å i Lofoten offers fascinating

insights into island life with its year-round

fishing village museum (Norsk Fiskeværsmuseum)

and the world‘s only stockfish

museum.

THE COD SQUAD

For centuries, the lucrative first months

of the year shaped the lives of Lofoten

fishermen. There were times when up to

30,000 mariners manning 6,000 boats

were catching cod in these waters. As they

only stayed here during skrei season, they

did not build proper dwellings, but rather

stayed in simple “rorbuer” (fishing huts) –

small wooden cabins painted red with fish

oil. Many of these are now rented out as

vacation homes.

Today, there are still around 2,000 commercial

fishermen in Lofoten, and skrei has

achieved the status of a certified specialty:

In order for cod to be sold under this name,

it must have been caught under certain

conditions: no nets, only sustainably with a

line or fishing rod. The Norwegian Seafood

Council (NSC) regulates procedures and the

speed of fish processing.

Dating back to the time when there were

no refrigerators or freezers, two traditional

methods of preservation by drying were

developed: Either by hanging fish whole on

huge wooden racks to make tørrfisk (stockfish);

or salted, cut in half, and laid on

rocks to dry, resulting in what is known as

klippfisk. Skrei preserved in such manners

was already being shipped to southern Europe

in medieval times, making it Norway‘s

oldest export product. These traditional

methods are still used today, and stockfish

from Lofoten (Tørrfisk fra Lofoten) has

enjoyed Protected Geographical Indication

since 2014, same as Champagne or prosciutto

di Parma.

Along the island chain

you’ll find several restaurants

that serve

stockfish and other

regional dishes.

The fact that

the Michelin

Guide does not

In Svolvær, the capital

of Lofoten, numerous

boat tours are available,

ranging from fishing

trips to excursions to

the Trollfjord, where

numerous white-tailed

sea eagles roost.

Blessed with art and

culinary delights, the

town of Henningsvær

is about a fifteen-minute

drive off the main E10 route.

Inset: The Fiskekrogen always

has cod on the menu.

(yet) rate restaurants north

of Trondheim does not mean

that there are no places for

discerning palates in the northern

half of the country. The most

exclusive dining experience is offered by

Roy Magne Berglund: His Lofoten Food

Studio is set up in his own garage and consists

of an open kitchen surrounded by a

chef‘s counter with fifteen seats. Gourmets

from all over gather here to experience the

culinary entertainer‘s showmanship. He

really does everything on his own: cooking

each dish, pouring each glass, shaking each

cocktail, and washing each plate. Nevertheless,

he manages to keep the entire service

running smoothly.

The brothers Thomas and Jørgen Asheim

run Fiskekrogen with the same personal

touch – originally their parents’ restaurant,

it opened 35 years ago, making it the

oldest existing restaurant in Henningsvær.

This picturesque fishing village in the south

of the Lofoten Islands has a lot to offer in

terms of cuisine and culture considering its

small population (around 500).

Besides the fish restaurant, there is,

among other things, a youthful looking

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nordics / NORWAY

The typical architecture of the

fishermen‘s huts called “rorbuer”

– meaning renovated or newly built

– is currently all the rage. Right:

Stockfish is used to decorate the

Gadus restaurant in Reine.

<

“climbing café” (“Klatrekaféen”), where

vacationers gather to enjoy burgers, fish

soup, or cappuccino. The town also has two

galleries: the museumesque Galleri Lofoten,

which boasts the country‘s largest collection

of early 20th century northern Norwegian

art, and the contemporary Kaviar Factory,

which has already exhibited works by Ai

Weiwei, Marina Abramovic, and Yoko Ono.

Those who follow the Panorama road to

its western end can treat themselves in Sørvågen

– Conveniently located at the harbor,

the restaurant Maren Anna awaits. Named

FOR CENTURIES, THE

ISLANDS WERE

DEFINED BY SKREI:

THERE WERE TIMES

WHEN UP TO 30,000

MARINERS WERE

CATCHING COD.

after a sailing boat, they offer stockfish, cod

tongue, and catch of the day. Want more?

The nearby boutique hotel Holmen Lofoten

organizes long culinary weekends several

times a year under the motto “Cuisine at

the Edge of the World”, with guest chefs

and artisans who give lessons in carving,

leather crafting, or paper making during

the day. Fish is no longer the sole source of

income for the people of Lofoten – but the

island would not be as idyllic, creative, and

delicious today if the skrei had chosen

another place to spawn. <

HOTELS

HOTEL NUSFJORD VILLAGE & RESORT

Nestled in one of Norway’s best-preserved fishing

villages, this luxury resort beckons with red cabins,

wooden piers, and tranquil fjord views.

Nusfjordveien 110, 8380 Ramberg

T: +47 76 093020, nusfjord.com

TREVAREFABRIKKEN

A former industrial building which served as a

carpentry workshop (hence the name, which

translates as “wood products factory”) and later

manufactured cod liver oil, is now home to stylishly

designed hotel rooms and a popular pizzeria.

Dreyers gate 72, 8312 Henningsvær

T: +47 96 008000,

trevarefabrikken.no

HATTVIKA LODGE

Traditional fisherman’s cabins meet sleek Scandinavian

design in the heart of Lofoten. A farmhouse-style

restaurant serves seasonal, locally

sourced dishes, and direct access to hiking and

kayaking makes it ideal for modern explorers.

Hattvikveien, 8373 Ballstad

T: +47 907 99 855

hattvikalodge.no

HOLMEN LOFOTEN

Opened in 2018, this boutique hotel on a small

island near Å is the brainchild of Ingunn Rasmussen,

the daughter of a Lofoten fisherman. She has

lovingly renovated the fishermen’s cabins and added

a few spectacular suites for good measure.

Flathaugen 36, 8392 Sørvågen

T: +47 93 442301, holmenlofoten.no

RESTAURANTS

ØRSEN SPISERI

A former shipyard dating back to 1828 now hosts

this renowned restaurant, which can afford to offer

a short, but delectable, menu: just four classic

dishes featuring fish and meat, as well as desserts

inspired by regional cuisine.

Gunnar Bergs vei 2, 8300 Svolvær

T: +47 76 069931, svinoya.no

FISKEKROGEN

Founded in 1989, the fish restaurant is now run

by the second generation with dedication and

hospitality.

Dreyersgate 29, 8312 Henningsvær

T: +47 760 74652, fiskekrogen.no

LOFOTEN FOOD STUDIO

Chef Roy Magne Berglund welcomes foodies to

the table surrounding his open kitchen, preparing a

tasting menu made from

regional ingredients right before their eyes.

Jacob Jentofts vei 29, 8373 Ballstad

T: +47 91 108430, lofotenfoodstudio.no

MAREN ANNA

If you make it to the end of the Lofoten Panorama

Road, you will find this first-class fish restaurant

serving stockfish and other seafood specialties.

Gamle Sørvågen 12, 8392 Sørvågen

T: +47 76 092050, marenanna.com

GETTING THERE

The small airport in Svolvær (SVJ) is served by

Widerøe airlines from Oslo during certain months.

Harstad/Narvik Airport (Evenes, EVE) has several

daily connections to Oslo, as well as seasonal direct

flights from Copenhagen via SAS. Sweden has rail

connections to Narvik, including a direct overnight

train – a scenic alternative route. A rental car is

required to drive the Lofoten Panorama Road.

Photos: Lisa Arnold (2)


CORA CORA MALDIVES

COR AMAZING!

Ten Reasons to visit Cora Cora Maldives – It’s Freedom Time!

A five-star luxury resort on the pristine Raa Atoll, here are ten motives

to live, learn, and love at Cora Cora Maldives.


PARADISE PERFECTED Cora

Cora Maldives is a natural island

with palm-fringed, powder-white

sands gently lapped by the Indian

Ocean. The house reef is easily accessible

from the beach and home to hundreds of

colorful species.

FOOD Make pizza and pasta at

Acquapazza ® ,home to a pizza oven shipped

from Rome, or enjoy dishes inspired by the

spice route at Tazäa ® . Ginger Moon® has

an all-female staff serving Asian street food;

and the Teien ® offers Teppanyaki, Sushi, and

Kushiyaki.

COCKTAILS The Acquapazza ® Bar offers

advanced mixology, with premium spirits,

beer, and liqueurs available at Acquapazza ®

BEACH CLUB AND OTHER OUTLETS.

Unlimited cocktails & mocktails, soft

drinks, tea & coffee are available from the

Premium All-Inclusive Gourmet Meal Plan ® .

ACTIVITIES Learn to play the guitar or

take a class with the fastest speed painter in

the Maldives. Spices are explored at candlemaking

workshops, or learn how spin turntables

like a professional DJ.

AQUATIC CHARMS Our PADI-certified

diving school is a gateway to Raa Atoll’s

incredible array of marine life, while sunset

cruises offer a chance to see dolphins at

play. Paddle-boarding, jet skis, kayaks, and

windsurfing can also be arranged.

MOKSHA ® Spa & Wellbeing Centre Overthe-water

treatment rooms offer our signature

herbal compression massage. Soothe

sore muscles with aromatherapy massages,

boost skin hydration, and purify problem

areas.

CORA KIDS®RELAX while the little ones

have fun in our activity-filled club, open to

ages 3 to 12. Featuring dancing, yoga, nail

painting, and hair styling, drop in for a session

or let the kids hang out all day.

THE DUTCH Onion Museum® displays

over 400 artefacts, including Chinese porcelain.

A guided tour explores the foundations

of a mosque, an Islamic graveyard, and two

well-preserved ritual bathing pools.

SUSTAINABILITY Cora Cora Maldives

sources many products locally, including

organic fruit and fresh fish. A bearer of the

Green Globe certification, responsible waste

management, treated wastewater, and biodegradable

chemicals are just part of an

ongoing sustainability journey.

UNIQUE DINING EXPERIENCES At

Tazäa ® the Fisherman’s Catch BBQ is a particular

highlight, with a lavish buffet of the

best of the ocean. Every Thursday, a Maldivian-themed

night sees resort staff wear traditional

clothes and perform Bodu-Beru (a

Maldivian dance).

INFO

coracoraresorts.com


nordics / NEW NORDIC CUISINE

ANCIENT

TRADITIONS,

NEW

FLAVORS

Pickling, fermenting, and smoking used to be a necessity in the Nordics –

to preserve food for the long, harsh winters. After years of faithfully

following the New Nordic Manifesto, many chefs are now looking for

inspiration further afield, while others are delving even deeper into the

past, refining age-old methods into something entirely new.

TEXT RASMUS PALSGÅRD

Photo: Kadeau


Chef owner Nicolai

Nørregaard in Kadeau’s

garden on Bornholm,

where wild herbs, flowers,

vegetables and shoreline

greens form the heart of

his cuisine.

dec–feb 2026

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The dining room walls are

painted in muted natural

tones ranging from reddish

brown to deep moss green.

Dried branches, herbs, and

flowers hang from the walls, while small,

matte, lamps cast a soft, moonlike glow

akin to sitting in a forest cave by a

campfire on a dark autumn night. A

spotlight above our bare wooden table

illuminates the dish before us – thin layers

of beetroot, pear, and plum encircled by a

foaming cheese sauce dusted with dried

spruce. On paper, it may sound modest, but

it reveals an astonishing complexity of

layers and techniques that raises the dish to

new heights. Each element has been dried

and rehydrated in different ways, allowing

At Kadeau, found in Copenhagen and on the

island of Bornholm, the menu is deeply rooted in

the principles of New Nordic cuisine.

their acidity, sweetness, and texture to shine

while forming a harmonious and deeply

nuanced flavor universe.

This dish embodies the philosophy of

Kadeau Copenhagen, the two-star Michelin

restaurant that recently unveiled its

Preservation Menu, which is offered from

autumn to spring, when the first signs of

life once again emerge from the soil.

Kadeau’s guiding principle is to showcase

the rich bounty of Bornholm – the small

Danish island where Kadeau originated – in

close collaboration with its own gardens.

This approach has led to one of the most

distinctive and refined culinary languages in

the Nordic region, supported by an

extraordinary pantry of preserved

ingredients.


KADEAU DOESN’T

PRESERVE

INGREDIENTS OUT OF

NECESSITY, BUT OUT

OF CONVICTION.

“We have around 400

different products in our

preservation library. Some

are made from the same

base ingredient but

treated with different

methods. During the

growing season, we pickle,

preserve, and ferment about

ten tons of produce, ensuring

a broad selection of ingredients

for the cold, dark months when

nature has little to offer,” explains Nicolai

Nørregaard, chef and co-owner of Kadeau

Copenhagen and Bornholm, the latter

being where it all began back in 2007.

Photos: Kadeau, Soren Reed (4), Restaurant Moment (2)

THE OLD WAYS

In a world where we have access to

everything all the time, Kadeau doesn’t

preserve ingredients out of necessity – but

out of conviction. For Nørregaard, local

produce is a way to express a unique

identity on the plate.

“My grandfather was a huge influence

on my culinary upbringing. He was a

postman, but whenever he was off work,

he’d be in the kitchen. There was always

hot food on the table twice a day, and there

was always something pickled. He spent a

lot of time in his vegetable patch and

preserved much of his harvest for winter.

That has really stayed with me – it creates

a special kind of flavor that I find endlessly

fascinating to work with,” he says.

Kadeau’s approach was undoubtedly

influenced by Copenhagen’s Noma, which

preceded it by four years. Named the

world’s best restaurant an incredible five

times, it shifted local perceptions of fine

dining, previously dominated by French

cuisine. Noma gave the Nordics a newfound

appreciation for local flavors, paving

the way for others who could see both the

potential and the purpose in traditional

cuisine. “When we opened Kadeau, it was

definitely this way of thinking about food

that inspired me. I grew up with these

traditions, but it was the New Nordic

movement that, in many ways, made it

possible,” says Nørregaard.

SUSTAINABLE FLAVOR

At Kadeau, it quickly becomes apparent

that certain ingredients play a recurring

role. One of them is the plum – a somewhat

overlooked fruit that rarely steals the

spotlight but, when handled properly, can

unfold extraordinary flavors and textures.

“Plums are a cornerstone of our kitchen.

Fresh, they don’t do much for me, but once

you process them, magic happens. The

classic example is plum jam, but we’ve

In the kitchen of Restaurant

Moment, Fabrizio Ferla crafts

dishes rooted in the soil –

evolving, intuitive, and free

from manipulation.

taken the idea much further to explore

their full potential. One approach is to

steam them briefly, peel the skin, brush

them with fig-leaf oil and honey, then

semi-dry and freeze them. The result is a

wonderful balance of acidity and sweetness,

with a chewy texture that adds depth. We

also use the kernel inside the stone, which

has a marzipan-like flavor, and the plum

blossoms for oils and schnapps,” says

Nørregaard.

Further west, in the eastern part of

Jutland, Restaurant Moment has earned

repeated praise for its uncompromising

approach to sustainability – and here, too,

preservation plays a key role. For Italian-born

head chef Fabrizio Ferla, pickling,

fermenting, and smoking are not only ways

to create new and exciting flavors, but

<

dec–feb 2026

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65


Inside ÄNG’s

glass pavilion,

gastronomy

meets art in

harmony with

the surrounding

meadows.

A DIFFERENT KIND OF LUXURY

At Moment, Ferla also works with

sustainably sourced meat, including wild

goose. Here, he draws inspiration from

traditional Nordic smoking techniques.

“I’ve experimented with handling goose

breast the same way as certain Italian

charcuterie. We salt and grill them slowly,

surrounded by smoke. When they reach

52°C, we remove the breasts and preserve

them in their own fat. That way, they keep

for a long time – and we can enjoy geese

for months,” he explains.

At Kadeau, guests might also encounter

caviar, scallops, or truffles – but for

Nørregaard, the true luxury lies elsewhere.

“For me, the real luxury is our preservation

kitchen. We harvest the seeds from our

own garden, dry them, and sow them

again. We nurture the plants throughout

the season before harvesting, drying,

pickling, or fermenting them. That level of

care, from beginning to end, is what makes

it truly special.” <

>

also a natural part of a sustainable

culinary philosophy.

“During the growing season, we cultivate

far more than we can use for our guests in

summer. It makes perfect sense to preserve

as much as possible – that way, we make

full use of what we grow while also giving

our guests unique flavors during winter,” he

explains.

Preserving ingredients also allows Ferla

to combine products that would otherwise

never meet. “It’s hard to serve green

strawberries with pumpkin, but if you

pickle the strawberries or tomatoes while

they’re at their peak, they can bring new

life to winter ingredients. By February, it’s

our pantry that brings color and flavor

back to the kitchen.”

Like Nørregaard, Ferla grew up around

strong preserving traditions – in his case, in

Piedmont, Italy. “I grew up with vegetables

in jars, and I want to carry that legacy

forward. In a way, I’m serving my childhood

memories to my guests.”

R ESTAURANT

MOMENT IS

UNCOMPROMISINGLY

SUSTAINABLE, AND

HERE, TOO,

PRESERVATION

PLAYS A KEY ROLE.

Naturaj grows its own produce and raises its own

pigs, bringing real sustainability to the table.

EXPERIENCE

THE

PRESERVED

Preservation techniques are

generally thriving across the Nordic

region. The Danish smørrebrød

tradition, for instance, is defined by

the art of pickling – many open-faced

sandwiches feature acidic flavor profiles,

from pickled herring to all kinds of

vegetables, smoked fish,

and more.

At the gourmet level, a number of

restaurants excel in the art of

preserving ingredients for the colder

months. Among them are Domestic

in Aarhus, Denmark, Äng in Halland,

and Naturaj in Sundsvall,

both in Sweden.

Photos: ÄNG (2), Naturaj


The Arla Unika products are developed in cooperation with passionate dairymen,

experimental product developers, skilled chefs and innovative entrepreneurs. In this

cooperation, we find the inspiration and compe tencies needed to develop innovative

dairy products at the highest culinary level. Together, we conceive ideas, testing our

way ahead, get inspired, and try again and again. Until we have created an Unika.

Read more on arlaunika.com

nordics / NORDIC VISIONARIES

Photos: Emily Wilson Photography (2)


MATT ORLANDO

RENEGADE

REBORN

When Matt Orlando closed Amass, one of

Copenhagen’s most forward-thinking restaurants, it

wasn’t defeat—it was a pivot. Now, the American-born

former Noma head chef refines a decade of ideas into

something leaner, wiser, and more circular than ever.

TEXT TOVE OSKARSSON HENCKEL

“The dining room itself will be a living

fermentation room,” he says. “All our

misos, garums, pickles – they’ll be here,

visible. People can see what we’re doing,

ask questions. It’s a chance to communicate,

not preach.”

He pauses, looking out across the

unfinished floor. “We’re calling her ESSE.

She’s the next evolution of Amass – more

focused, more circular, more alive.”

Precision, depth, and respect

for ingredients – Matt

Orlando’s cuisine turns

conscious cooking into

contemporary art.

It’s a grey afternoon in Copenhagen’s

Nordhavn, and, six weeks before

opening, Orlando’s restaurant feels

more like an art installation in

progress. Big, wooden lamps are

lying on the floor, waiting to be hung.

“Those are made by my friend Thomas

Dambo,” Orlando says, nodding upward.

“He builds giant trolls from leftover

construction wood. These lamps are made

from what’s left after the trolls – the third

life of the wood.”

He gestures toward a sectioned-off

corner: “That’ll be the lounge-couches

made from recycled water bottles, ninety-nine

percent recycled plastic frames.

You’ll be able to drop in for a glass of wine

and a snack, no reservation. We’re in a

neighborhood, not a museum.”

Around us, the space takes shape as he

describes his vision: a fermentation wall, a

four-seat bar, forty-two covers in total.

CHANGE IS CONSTANT

Named after the Latin verb for “to be, to

exist,” ESSE’s unfinished walls may still be

raw concrete, but Orlando’s mind is miles

ahead. To understand ESSE, you have to

look back – to the restaurant that made his

name, and the unexpected detour that

shaped his next move.

When Orlando closed Amass in 2022,

it wasn’t failure – it was business. The

restaurant was thriving, but its sister

brewery, Broaden & Build, had collapsed

under the pandemic. “I could’ve worked

fifteen years for free just to repay a loan for

a business that no longer existed,” he says.

“Closing was the only responsible choice.”

For the American-born chef – who

trained at The Fat Duck, Le Bernardin, Per

Se and later became head chef at Noma –

the decision was both an ending and a

Revival. Within months, he was in Singapore,

building a new restaurant from

<

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nordics / NORDIC VISIONARIES

The dining room itself is a

living fermentation room.

All misos, garums,

pickles are visible.

“SO THIS,” SAYS MATT

ORLANDO, HIS VOICE

ECHOING AGAINST THE

BARE CONCRETE, “IS

THE MAIN ENTRANCE.

WHAT YOU SEE IS WHAT

YOU GET.”

Natural materials and soft light create an

atmosphere of effortless sophistication.

<

scratch alongside visionary

Will Goldfarb of Room for

Dessert and entrepreneur Ronald

Akili of Potato Head, both in Bali.

For eighteen months he commuted

between Denmark and Asia. His family

stayed home, and the experience became a

crash course not only in operations – he

served as both chef and general manager –

but in cultural nuance.

“How people communicate, how they

absorb information – it’s all different,” he

says. “It made me more rounded, both

personally and professionally. When I came

back to Denmark, I appreciated what I had

here even more: the network, the creativity,

the space to experiment.”

Returning home in late 2023, Orlando

didn’t want to recreate Amass. Instead,

ESSE is what he calls “a distillation of

Amass”– stripped of inefficiencies and

sharpened around its core values.

While Amass projected energy outward

toward the garden, ESSE turns inward.

Every element – the lamps of recycled

wood, the furniture

from reclaimed plastic,

leather book covers

pressed from shredded offcuts

– is part of a circular philosophy. Even the

walls and textures are a quiet manifesto.

VIRTUOUS CYCLE

It is easy to understand Orlando’s

enthusiasm over his new restaurant. New

ideas, new energy and a beautiful room

filled with expectations, literally – and

physically: The high ceiling brings an airy

and light atmosphere full of promise.

During our interview, Orlando also

highlights how he moved away from the

language of alarmism. “I’m tired of

fear-based communication,” he mentions.

“People tune out. We want to inform

guests on their terms, never preach.”

Before starting his new project, Orlando

had stints at four restaurants who share his

core values: SEM in Portugal, Nola in

Helsinki, Domestic in Aarhus, and Silo in

London.


Photos: Emily Wilson Photography (7)

“We all know each other, of course, but I

had never cooked there, and cooking is the

most intimate way to understand because

everyone does it a little differently. You

exist in a different system and understanding

your system is the starting point. And

it was fascinating to see how people engage

in different ways.”

The new experiences of the last years

have shaped the way he wants to work in

ESSE. Behind the scene, the kitchen runs

strictly sustainably. No single-use plastic,

aluminum foil or baking paper. No vacuum

machines. All fermentation happens in jars,

using water-based methods. Packaging is

treated as the restaurant’s biggest wastemaker:

several suppliers now deliver dry goods

in reusable containers, which are emptied

and returned.

Despite being out of Denmark for several

years, seventy percent of Amass’s former

staff have rejoined – many returning from

abroad. Continuity, culture, and shared

understanding form the backbone of the

new operation.

The menu doesn’t highlight “byproducts”

any longer. A dish once described as

“tomato skin oil” now simply reads

“tomato oil.” Only the “fishbone noodles”

– made from dried, ground fishbones –

openly reference their unconventional

origin. “The goal is to normalize circular

cooking,” Orlando explains. “If we treat it

as ordinary, it becomes ordinary.” And

above all: flavor first.

“We’ll never do something just because

it’s sustainable,” Orlando insists. “If it’s not

exceptionally good, it undermines the

whole movement. The only way to change

behavior is through taste.”

On the menu, ideas become edible. A

pumpkin dish uses the entire vegetable:

blackened-skin miso, soft flesh, and

lactic-fermented seeds. The fermented

potato bread returns, served with vegetable-skin

XO butter and herb-stem oil.

Pomme purée comes enriched with reduced

buttermilk, a byproduct of house-made

butter. The dessert features “chocolate with

no chocolate”– a barley-based innovation

from Orlando’s research venture Endless

Food Company, already used in 7-Eleven

cookies across Denmark. Everything tastes

like a new version of the possible.“Cooking

like this isn’t harder – it’s more exciting,”

WE’LL NEVER DO

SOMETHING

JUST BECAUSE IT’S

SUSTAINABLE.IF

IT’S NOT EXCEPT

IONALLY GOOD,

IT UNDERMINES

THE WHOLE

MOVEMENT.

Every plate by Matt Orlando reflects thoughtful

craftsmanship. It is delicious, precise, progressive,

and grounded in the Nordic landscape.

Orlando says. “When you limit yourself,

you become more creative. You open doors

you didn’t even know were there.”

And beyond the restaurant, Orlando is

also shaping education. With Copenhagen’s

Hotel and Restaurant School, he’s helping

develop a sustainability curriculum focused

on upcycling.

And that’s perhaps the essence of Matt

Orlando’s circular philosophy. Not a

revolution shouted from rooftops, but a

quiet refinement of pleasure and principle.

The essence of ESSE: a restaurant that tells

a story, not only by food but by creating

subtle awareness - one step at the time.

<

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nordics / SCIENCE

FAMINE TO FEAST

Potatoes may be considered a plain

staple, but there is no doubt they

changed the face of cooking. In

Scandinavia, the humble tuber both

fed its people – and made them drink

more, and cheaper.

TEXT MARLIES GRUBER

ILLUSTRATION GINA MÜLLER / CAROLINESEIDLER.COM

72 72 falstaff dec–feb 2026 2026

dec–feb 2026 2026falstaff

73 73

nordics / SCIENCE

The potato looks back on a long

history: First cultivated in the

Andes millennia ago, it came to

Europe by coincidence. Christopher

Columbus brought it back

with him after discovering the “New World”,

inadvertently setting off the first wave of globalization

in European kitchens along with

his other cargo – cocoa, maize and tomatoes.

It would take several generations, however,

for the potato to gain traction. Initially, Europeans

distrusted this member of the famously

toxic nightshade family (Solanaceae),

proving themselves highly hesitant to cultivate

the crop. But potatoes proved their value

during times of upheaval and famine. Unlike

wheat and other cereals that grow above

ground, subterranean tubers are left intact

when battles rage and armies march over

fields. They remain safely underground even

in winter, and would offer emergency sustenance

in case the farmstead was burned and

grain silos were plundered. A single small

garden could produce enough to feed a decent-sized

family and their livestock. After

all, potatoes offer two- to four times as many

calories as wheat would when planted on the

same area; they grow even in nutrient-poor

soil; and they do not need to be threshed to

access the edible part.

Potatoes reached Scandinavia in the 18th

century, but their welcome was far from

warm. People eyed the strange new crop

with suspicion – and with good reason,

since early experiments with the leaves and

stems led to bouts of poisoning. Only

toward the end of the century did the humble

tuber begin to take root. By the 1830s

it had secured its place as a dependable

staple across the region, quietly displacing

grain with its generous yields and stubborn

reliability throughout northern Europe.

When cultivation began on a larger scale,

the crop brought about a quiet revolution

in food security. While dependence on

the potato contributed to Ireland’s Great

Famine of the 1840s, the new crop had the

opposite effect in the North, helping to

ease or avert several famines across the

region. The hardy tuber thrived in colder,

wetter soils, withstood frost better than

grain, and yielded a crop even in difficult

years. In doing so, it quite literally saved

lives during the seasons of scarcity that


THE POTATO REPLACED MUCH OF THE MONOTONOUS

BREAD AND PORRIDGE THAT HAD LONG DOMINATED

THE PEASANT DIET. IT COULD BE BOILED, BAKED, FRIED,

OR STIRRED INTO SOUPS AND STEWS, AND SOON

BECAME A CORNERSTONE OF NORDIC HOME COOKING.

had long haunted the region.

The potato replaced much of the monotonous

bread and porridge that had long

dominated the peasant diet. It could be

boiled, baked, fried, or stirred into soups

and stews, and soon became a cornerstone

of Nordic home cooking. Meals grew more

varied – and more filling. Because the potato

was cheap and easy to grow, grain could

instead be sold or used as feed, bringing a

modest rise in prosperity.

Yet the same crop also worsened an old

problem: drinking. Before the potato’s rise,

spirits were distilled mainly from grain –

competing directly with the food supply.

But once potatoes began to be used in the

early19th century, production costs plummeted.

The tuber’s starch could be easily

fermented after boiling, producing large

quantities of strong, inexpensive liquor.

Before long, farms across the Nordics

were distilling their own – a practice

known in Sweden as hembränning. Consumption

soared until the new abundance

began to worry both priests and politicians.

Soon, temperance movements took

shape, and the state moved to curb the

excess. And in time – after political battles,

social reforms, and more than a few hangovers

– Scandinavians became somewhat

more moderate in their drinking – though

hopelessly dependent on boiled potatoes.

EVERYDAY DELICACY

Once an exotic newcomer, potatoes eventually

inspired a wealth of local specialities.

They appear in countless forms:

Finland’s karjalanpiirakka – delicate rye

pastries filled with mashed potatoes and

served with rich egg butter – is eaten at

breakfast, lunch or as a snack. Sweden’s

Janssons frestelse, a creamy gratin of potatoes,

Swedish anchovies and onions, shows

how modest ingredients can be refined.

Denmark has its brunede kartofler, caramelized

in butter and sugar for Christmas,

and the everyday kartoffelmad – cold slices

of potato on buttered rye with onion or

chives, the essence of smørrebrød simplicity.

In Norway, grated or mashed potatoes

become raspeballer dumplings or thin lefse

flatbreads, served with butter, sugar or

cured meats. Even in Iceland, where soil

and weather set strict limits, potatoes

found a place in dishes like plokkfiskur – a

hearty mix of fish and mashed potatoes

that still defines comfort food there.

RELEVANT NUTRIENTS

Consisting largely of starch, potatoes are

very filling – but that’s not all. Thanks to

consistently high consumption, they

remain a major source of vitamin C for

many. They are also great sources of magnesium

and potassium, making them invaluable

for managing hypertension: Potassium

helps counter sodium, thus regulating

blood pressure. Potatoes also help with

protein intake: While they themselves only

have about two percent, it is of high biological

value. And when combined with eggs,

they yield more for the body’s own protein

production than even beef or milk. And

finally: the persistant claim that potatoes

make you fat is a myth, as they consist of

80 percent water. Whether they encourage

weight gain depends entirely on their

preparation. <

dec–feb 2026

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nordics / RECIPES


Falstaff Recipes

For more recipies, visit

falstaff.com/en/recipes

A veritable paradise for

foodies, the island of Sylt

fuses casual maritime charm

with haute cuisine. Three top

chefs of the island shared

their best recipes with Falstaff

– a love letter to the island.

PHOTOS LENA STAAL

CONCEPT & PRODUCTION BIANCA DEMSA

FOOD STYLIST GITTE JAKOBSEN

NORTH SEA

BOUNTY

dec–feb 2026

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nordics / RECIPES


RAW, MARINATED

SYLT OYSTERS

(SERVINGS: 6)

Johannes King recommends improving the typical iodine taste of

raw oysters with a vinaigrette. Important: After opening, drain the

water and only then remove the oyster – this way, the vinaigrette is

not diluted. For this recipe, he prefers Sylt Royal oysters for their

delicate, nutty aroma.

INGREDIENTS FOR OYSTERS IN A

PEA VINAIGRETTE

200 g Frozen green peas

2 tbsp Water

2 tbsp Sunflower oil

2 tbsp Grape seed oil

1 pinch of Sea salt

1 pinch of Granulated sugar

6 Oysters

PREPARING OYSTERS IN A

PEA VINAIGRETTE

– Let the frozen peas thaw slightly, add the water

and run everything through a juicer.

– Pour the resulting juice in a saucepan and mix in

the oils and seasonings.

– Heat to simmering, add a sprig of mint and let it

seep for about 10 minutes.

– Remove the mint and sprinkle the vinaigrette

over the oysters.

down sieve, so excess water can drip off.

– Cut the oysters first into strips, then into small

cubes. Marinate in ground white peper, lime juice

and grated lime peel.

– Beat the crème cru very lightly with a whisk.

– Fill the oyster tartare back into a half shell, add a

few dabs of crème cru, then garnish with very finely-cut

strips of tarragon.

FALSTAFF WINE RECOMMMENDATION

Kiedrich Riesling trocken 2023

Weingut Eva Fricke, Eltville, Germany

Delicate aroma of kumquats, orange zest, lemon

balm, and wet stone. On the palate, meadow

herbs, firm acidity, attractive creaminess, and a

long, mineral finish. The salty minerality of the

wine pairs perfectly with oysters.

evafricke.com, €23

Photo: Florian Arvanitopoulos/Fotostudio-Arva.de

INGREDIENTS FOR OYSTERS WITH APPLE,

CUCUMBER, AND GINGER

⅓ Apple (preferably Granny Smith)

50 g Cucumber

10 g Fresh ginger

6 Oysters

PREPARING OYSTERS WITH APPLE,

CUCUMBER, AND GINGER

– Peel the apple and cucumber, remove the seeds

and cut into fine strips. Mix both in a bowl.

– Grate the ginger very finely, then lay on some

kitchen paper. Press out the juice and add to the

apple and cucumber strips. Mix well.

– Finally, place a little heap of the mixture atop

each oyster.

INGREDIENTS FOR OYSTER TARTARE

WITH CRÈME CRU

6 Large, meaty oysters

White pepper

Juice and grated peel from an untreated lime

100 g Créme cru

Fresh tarrragon

PREPARING OYSTER TARTARE

WITH CRÈME CRU

– Shuck the oysters, then lay them atop an upside-

Recipe by Johannes King

Sylter Manufaktur Johannes King

Keitum, Sylt, Germany

Johannes King looks back on 20 successful years

as head chef at the Söl'ring Hof. Born in Swabia,

the two-star chef is an entrepreneur and restaurateur,

as well as a passionate gardener and collector

of herbs and flowers. His Sylter Manufaktur

Johannes King includes a gourmet shop that delights

customers with exquisite delicacies.

dec–feb 2026

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STEAMED SKREI FILLET

with mussels, dill and North Sea Shrimp

(SERVINGS: 4)

Nils Henkel's cooking focuses on sustainability and seasonal ingredients.

This recipe may seem complex, but there’s room for omitting or substituting

individual components.

INGREDIENTS FOR THE SAFFRON-MUSSEL

BROTH

350 g Sea mussels

35 g Fennel

20 g Celery

20 g Shallots

25 g Canola oil

6 White peppercorns

3 Dill sprigs

1 Bay leaf

1 tsp Fennel seeds

¾ tsp Coriander seeds

1 g Saffron

100 ml Riesling

750 ml Fish stock

150 ml Milk

Salt, White pepper, Dill oil

PREPARING THEE SAFFRON-MUSSEL BROTH

– Wash the mussels well. Cut the vegetables into

small pieces and sauté in canola oil.

– Add the mussels, herbs and spices, sauté for a

few minutes, then deglaze with the Riesling.

– Reduce to half, then pour in the fish stock and

simmer for 20 minutes.

– Remove the mussels, then pass the broth

through a micro sieve. Add the milk and season

with salt and pepper.

– Note that the mussels are not used in this dish.

Due to cooking time they become very firm;

but they make a fine filling for ravioli.

INGREDIENTS FOR THE DILL OIL

200 g Dill

50 g Parsley leaves

400 g Canola oil

PREPARING THE DILL OIL

– Boil the dill and parsley in heavily salted water

for about a minute, then blanch in ice water.

– Press out excess moisture, then purée along

with the canola oil for 3 minutes at maximum

power.

– Let the purée rest for 24 hours in a cool spot,

then run it through a micro sieve.

INGREDIENTS FOR THE

STEAMED SKREI FILLET

300 g Fillet of winter cod (Skrei)

100 g Breadcrumbs (preferably panko)

100 g Beurre noisette

1 pinch Saffron powder

12 Sea mussels

8 Spring leeks

20 g Beurre noisette

2 Dill sprigs

Salt, and white pepper

Canola oil for coating

PREPARING THE STEAMED SKREI FILLET

– Season the fish with salt and pepper, coat with

canola oil and the wrap tightly in cling wrap.

– Chill the fillet for about 24 hours; the salt will

give it a firmer texture. Sauté the breadcrumbs in

100 grams beurre noisette along with the saffron

powder until crispy, then let them drain on

kitchen paper.

– Steam the mussels for about 3 minutes ati 85° C

until open.

– Keep the mussel water and place the shucked

mussels in it.

– Wash and clean the spring leeks, sauté in

20 grams beurre noisette and season with salt

and pepper.

INGREDIENTS FOR THE POTATO LEEK PURÉE

100 g Leeks – just the greens

100 g Butter, room temperature

100 g Mealy potatoes, peeled

Salt and Pepper

Milk

PREPARING THE POTATO LEEK PURÉE

– Chop the leek greens very finely, then blanch by

boiling in salted water for 2 minutes, then plunging

them in ice water. Press out excess moisture.

– Take your leeks and knead them into the soft

butter, then mix in a food processor until very

fine. Take this mass and pass it through a fine

sieve. Meanwhile, boil the potatoes in salted

water until soft, then dry them in the oven at low

Recipe by Nils Henkel, Tipken’s by Nils Henkel

Keitum, Sylt, Germany

Nils Henkel's two restaurants on Sylt, the Bootshaus

and Tipken's by Nils Henkel both bear his unmistakable

signature. Under the eye of chef René

Verse, the highest standards are a given. Their

fresh, colorful creations flatter the senses, and the

relaxed ambiance makes every meal a delight.

heat. Pass the potatoes through a fine sieve as

well.

– Mix the puréed leeks in with the hot mashed

potatoes and season with salt and pepper.

– The finished purée should be creamy and just

a little runny. If necessary, add a bit of milk.

INGREDIENTS FOR THE DILL MAYONNAISE

1 Egg yolk

1 Tbsp Yogurt

200 g Dill oil (see previous)

2 tsp Lime juice

Salt

PREPARING THE DILL MAYONNAISE

– Mix the egg yolk and yogurt in a blender.

– Then add the dill oil slowly and emulsify.

– Add lime juice and salt to taste.

INGREDIENTS FOR THE SHRIMP SALAD

120 g North Sea shrimp, peeled

50 g Mayonnaise

1 Tbsp Celery cubes

1 Tbsp Dill, finely chopped

PREPARING THE SHRIMP SALAD

– Mix the North Sea shrimp, mayonnaise, celery

and dill well.

INGREDIENTS FOR PLATING

200 g Saffron-mussel broth (see previous)

40 g Dill oil (see previous)

2 radishes, thinly sliced

PLATING

– Cut the skrei fillet into 4 portions while still in

the cling wrap, then steam for about 6 minutes

at 85 °C. Remove the cling wrap.

– Spread some potato leek purée into warm, deep

dishes with a spoon. Place the skrei in the center

atop the purée, then place a spoonful of the

shrimp salad both to the left and right of the

fillet. The spring leeks are placed between the

skrei and shrimp salad.

– Each serving gets three warm mussels, three radish

slices and three dabs of dill mayonnaise.

– Top the skrei with one spoonful of warm breadcrumbs.

Mix the hot saffron-mussel broth with

the dill oil, then pour into the dishes.

FALSTAFF WINE RECOMMENDATION

Chardonnay North / South – Der Schmutzige

2020, Mayer Weine, Grünstadt-Asselheim,

Germany

Felix Mayer's unfiltered wines are produced naturally

and without additives. In a large glass, they

reveal warmth and tropical fruit aromas. The

creamy texture is complemented by mineral

notes and is ideal with skrei, mussels, and North

Sea shrimp. felix-weine.de, € 35,70


nordics / RECIPES

Photo: Axel Steinbach Fotografie

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

81

nordics / RECIPES


KRAPFEN & ROSE HIPS

(SERVINGS: 18)

Only after the first frost do rose hips develop their full sweetness: the skin

becomes tender and glassy and yields to light pressure. In theory, they can be

harvested throughout winter. Combined with the sweetness of the krapfen,

the result is an original dessert that perfectly sweetens long nights.

INGREDIENTS FOR PRESERVED ROSE HIPS

50 g Whole rose hips

75 ml Caster sugar

PREPARING THE PRESERVED ROSE HIPS

– Wash the rose hips well, halve them and remove

the seeds. It is best to wear gloves, as the seeds

can be itchy.

– Place the halved rose hips in a preserving jar,

melt the sugar in a pan, then pour it over the rose

hips.

– Let them seep for 24 hours.

INGREDIENTS FOR THE CHOUX PASTRY

40 ml Milk

40 ml Water

15 g Butter

¼ tsp Salt

¾ tsp Sugar

40 g Flour

1 Egg

PREPARING THE CHOUX PASTRY

– Bring the milk and water to a boil in a small saucepan

along with the butter, salt and sugar.

– Reduce the heat, then sieve the flour into the hot

liquid while stirring constantly. Let the mass cook

until a white layer develops on the bottom of the

saucepan.

– Place the mass in a large mixing bowl and let it

cool for 5 minutes.

– Use a hand mixer to beat in the egg. Keep going

until a uniform dough develops.

– Fill the dough into a piping bag.

PREPARING THE KRAPFEN

– Pipe 3-centimeter blobs of choux pastry onto a

baking sheet.

– Place 1 pastry dough disc on each blob and bake

for about 15 minutes at 160 °C.

INGREDIENTS FOR THE ROSE HIP JELLY

100 g Rose hip pulp

40 g Sugar

1 g Agar-Agar

1 Sheet of gelatine

PREPARING THE ROSE HIP JELLY

– While still at room temperature, mix the rose hip

pulp with the sugar and agar-agar in a saucepan.

– Heat for 2 minutes while stirring constantly. Add

the gelatine and keep stirring, until it is completely

dissolved.

– Pour the rose hip jelly on a flat baking sheet and

let it cool. Next, put the jelly into a food processor

and blend well to a uniform consistency.

– Fill the finished rose hip jelly into a piping bag.

INGREDIENTS FOR THE ROSE HIP MOUSSE

50 g Rose hip pulp

25 g Smetana

25 g Sugar

1 Sheet of gelatine

75 g Heavy cream

PREPARING THE ROSE HIP MOUSSE

– Heat the rose hip pulp, smetana and sugar in a

saucepan.

– Soften the gelatine in cold water. Press out excess

moisture well and add to the saucepan.

Keep stirring until the gelatine is completely dissolved.

Let the mixture cool, then stir again.

– Whip 50 grams of the cream and fold it in. Refrigerate

the mousse.

– As soon as the mousse is solid, fold in the rest of

the cream, then fill the mousse into a piping bag.

INGREDIENTS FOR PLATING

Icing Sugar

PLATING

– Poke a hole in the underside of the baked krapfen

and fill them with mousse.

– Dust with icing sugar.

– Pipe a dot of rose hip jelly on top of each krapfen,

and place a preserved rose hip half on top of the

jelly.

Photo: Ydo Sol Images

INGREDIENTS FOR THE PASTRY DOUGH

40 g Brown sugar

40 g Soft butter

40 g Flour

PREPARING THE PASTRY DOUGH

– Knead all the ingredients into a dough and then

roll it out to a thickness of 2 millimeters.

– Use a cookie cutter to punch out discs with a

diameter of 3 centimeters, then refrigerate.

INGREDIENTS FOR THE KRAPFEN

Choux pastry (see above)

Pastry dough (see above)

Recipe by Jan-Philipp Berner, Söl'ring Hof

Rantum, Sylt, Germany

Since 2013, two-star chef and host Jan-Philipp

Berner has been delighting guests at the Söl'ring

Hof, an exclusive gem in a unique, secluded location.

Surrounded by Sylt's natural beauty, the

island's produce forms the basis of his seasonal,

creative cuisine. In his cookbook Sylt, he offers his

personal insight into the culinary world. Published

by Südwest Verlag.

FALSTAFF WINE RECOMMENDATION

Niepoort Tawny 20 Years

Niepoort, Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal

Elegant, fresh nose with notes of roasted nuts,

nougat, dates, pomegranate, plum jam, and candied

wild berries. The whole is underpinned by a

fresh, ethereal herbal spice. Beautiful fullness on

the palate, complex and balanced. Long finish.

gute-weine.de, € 59,90

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

83

nordics

how

to …

STEP BY STEP

Photo: Stine Christiansen


enjoy

PART

SERIES

1

how

to …

GET THE MOST

OUT OF

OYSTERS

oysters

Oysters can be divisive – some adore them, others less so. And even

among aficionados, few would dare serve them to others. That fear

is unfounded: Oysters are far less complicated than their reputation

suggests and surprisingly easy to open with the right technique.

TEXT LARISSA GRAF

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

85

nordics / STEP BY STEP

Oysters are bred in calm

bays and estuaries and do not

require feeding or regular care,

maturing on their own after a

period of 2–5 years.

PURCHASING

AND STORING

OYSTERS

Oysters are best procured at your fishmonger

of choice. While their powerful

adductor muscles keep their shells closed

and prevent drying out for up to two weeks

in the right conditions, it’s still best to enjoy

them as fresh as possible. As oysters

should remain alive until consumption,

store them with ample access to air: The

best method is to place them curved side

down in a sheet pan or casserole dish lined

with a damp kitchen towel. Then cover

with another damp towel and place in the

refrigerator. You should check if your oysters

are still alive before consumption – if

they open easily, they are dead and should

be discarded. Fresh oysters can be frozen

for later use – but only if you boil them

prior to consumption. They can last up to

three months in the freezer.

There are many misconceptions

surrounding oysters: that they

are highly perishable, hard to

open, or a strictly seasonal

delicacy. This is a shame, as

there are but a few dishes that can elevate

an event with so little effort as oysters. A

glass of Champagne, a few oysters on the

half shell, some lemon juice or a vinaigrette

– and presto! The perfect summer snack,

with prestige and class to spare. And if you

dislike eating them raw, cooked or grilled

oysters are a treat as well.

A mollusk belonging to the Ostreidae

family, oysters are found in coastal regions

across the globe. Europe is home

to two species: the native European flat

oyster (Ostrea edulis) and the Pacific oyster

(Crassostrea gigas). The former once dominated

European waters, but centuries of

overfishing, disease, pollution and climate

change brought it close to extinction. Pacific

oysters were introduced in the 1960s

as a replacement, as they grow larger and

are more resistant to adverse conditions.

Many soon escaped their farms and further

displaced native species – leading to their

classification as invasive in several regions,

including Scandinavian waters.

Native European flat oysters also survive

in the cold, clean waters of Denmark, Sweden

and Norway – particularly in the Skagerrak

and Kattegat. Cold water produces

slow-growing, exceptionally pure-tasting

specimens, but quantities are limited and

prices reflect their rarity.

GUILT-FREE INDULGENCE

Unlike most seafood, you can enjoy oysters

with a clear conscience, as confirmed by

the fishing guide of the WWF. They usually

come from France, the Netherlands or

Ireland, where oyster farms are usually

located in estuaries and production is both

extensive and sustainable, as oysters need

no feeding and are harvested by hand.

Oysters caught in the wild are available,

but rare: They are usually Pacific oysters,

so consuming them helps restore balance

to coastal ecosystems. In addition, oysters

and other mollusks help improve water

quality: All species subsist on plankton,

Photos: Slavenko/Shutterstock, Unsplash, StockFood/Eising Studio Food Photo & Video


ALPINE

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BOOK YOUR ESCAPE NOW AT TROFANA ROYAL


PREPARATION /

TECHNIQUES

2

1

HOW TO SHUCK AN OYSTER

Start by checking the oyster. Tap it lightly if it’s

slightly open: if it doesn’t shut quickly, it’s no

longer alive and should be discarded. The same

applies to oysters that open with no effort. Rinse

under running water and remove grit with a clean

brush. Let it drain on a paper towel (1+2). Place

curved side down on a clean surface. Hold the

oyster knife in your dominant hand, gripping the

oyster firmly with the other. Don‘t slip! You can

protect your hand with an oyster glove or a folded

kitchen towel. Insert the knife at the hinge, angling

it down slightly, and work it between the two shell

halves (3). Then draw the blade along the entire

length of the mantle, separating the meat from

the shell (4). Pull off the top shell and remove

any shell fragments with a small brush (5). Drain

some of the brine if you wish, then carefully cut

the meat free of the shell with your knife. Finally,

sever the adductor muscle. As this usually kills

the oyster, the final step should only be taken

shortly before serving (6).

It is not always clear when oysters die

during preparation. It usually happens

when the adductor muscle is severed (6),

but they can survive until consumption.

6

5

3

4

which they filter out of seawater along

with pollutants, heavy metals, and bacteria.

Therefore, seawater surrounding oyster

farms must be pristine and free of contaminants,

and is monitored regularly.

Sometimes, oysters are finished before

harvesting by placing them in special affinage

pools called “claires”, a process commonly

associated with the French Atlantic

coast. “Fines de Claire”oysters spend a minimum

of 28 days in the pool; “Spéciales

de Claire” spend roughly the same time,

but with significantly more room for each

oyster, allowing them to become larger and

fleshier. “Pousse en Claire”oysters spend

several months in the claire and are given

abundant space, making them particularly

substantial. Otherwise, oysters are generally

named after their place of origin, like

“Marennes-Oléron” oysters from western

France, or the “Sylter Royal” from the eponymous

German island in the North Sea. A

notable exception is “Gillardeau” oysters,

which are named after the oyster breeder

Gérard Gillardeau, whose company made

a name for itself by offering exceptional

quality for over a century. Oysters are

classified according to a system similar to

paper: the smaller the number, the bigger

the oyster. The largest are classified 0 and

weigh over 150 grams, while the smallest,

size 5, weigh merely 30 to 45 grams.

Number 3 is considered ideal, averaging

between 66 and 85 grams

<

DOS AND

DON’TS

Do enjoy fresh oysters without the

obligatory squeeze of lemon juice

once in a while. They taste just as

good on their own!

Do chew oysters well instead of

swallowing them whole; that way,

their full flavor can unfold.

Don’t store them in plastic containers

or bags. Oysters need air to breath!

Don’t place oysters in freshwater –

it can kill them.

Photos: Slavenko/Shutterstock, Unsplash, StockFood/Eising Studio - Food Photo & Video

88 falstaff

RELAY ON A MISFIT

AND LONER.

DISCOVER THE CREATIONS

OF A VISONARY FREE SPIRIT.

ENJOY THE WINES OF

KOLFOK

SAME AS IT NEVER WAS - ANYTHING BUT

USUAL. WINES FROM ORGANIC VINES,

ALL DONE HANDCRAFTED, LOW

INTERVENTION AND RELAXED - JUST REAL.

Denmark:

simplygrapes.dk

Norway:

bonafidewines.no

Sweden:

bouquet17.se

Finland:

careliawines.fi

Lithuania:

facebook.com/dioniso.reivas

Kolfok Weine | Stefan D. Wellanschitz | Lange Zeile 28 | A-7311 Neckenmarkt | kolfok.com


OYSTERS KILPATRICK

Despite its Irish-sounding name, this recipe was actually

developed in the U.S. around the turn of the 20th century – at

the Palm Court Restaurant in San Francisco‘s Palace Hotel. It

remains highly popular in Australia, as oysters are abundant

and affordable near the coast. Originally, the recipe was fairly

simple, consisting of oysters – either grilled or broiled – topped

with bacon and Wocestershire sauce. Nowadays, there

are myriad variations – all of them great as hors-d‘oeuvres!

INGREDIENTS

12 Oysters

175 g Bacon

3 tsp Worcestershire sauce

1 tsp Soy sauce

2 tsp Brown sugar

20 g Cold butter, in small cubes

1/2 tsp Tabasco

3 Lemons, sliced

1 kg Coarse salt

PREPARATION

– Shuck the oysters (see previous page for how) and drain the

brine. Fill a casserole or sheet pan with a layer of coarse salt

and place the oysters on top – the salt serves to stabilize the

shells and keep the oysters in place.

– Cut the bacon into strips and fry in a pan with a bit of oil until

browned.

– Mix the Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce and brown sugar in

a saucepan; place the pan on the stove and let it simmer for a

bit, then add the butter piece by piece, mixing with a whisk.

Remove from the heat and mix in the Tabasco.

– Sprinke the sauce on the oysters, then place the strips of

bacon on top. Place the sheet pan or casserole in the oven

and roast at maximum heat for 2–3 minutes.

– Serve with lemon slices.

DELIGHT THROUGH THE AGES

For millennia, coastal dwellers on all continents

have enjoyed oysters: in Europe, usually

raw; in Asia, cooked; and the Native Americans

have a penchant for the grilled variety.

They are easy to collect safely in tidal zones,

and for a long time, they were a cheap, everyday

staple in most fishing villages. Conversely,

they were considered a luxury in cities farther

inland, as they had to be transported quickly

before they had a chance to spoil. In ancient

Rome, oysters were imported from Gaul and

Brittany as they were an essential part of every

banquet. Even then, they were considered

an aphrodisiac – a myth that persists to this

day despite the lack of scientific evidence.

Another enduring old wives‘ tale is that

oysters should only be eaten in months containing

the letter “r”. This rule of thumb can

be traced back to 18th century Europe, when

only domestic oysters were available. As these

spawn in summer, their texture and flavor

would change between May and August,

becoming milky, watery, or bitter. Also, overfishing

was a problem at the time, making a

PAIRING

Oysters go best with mineral-driven,

dry white- and sparkling wines. Classic

pairings include Blanc de Blancs Champagne

or Muscadets. If you‘d like to try

something different, opt for Fino Sherry,

dark beer or stout, vodka, a Dirty Martini

or even a peaty Scotch.

closed season a necessity for the oyster population

to recover. Nowadays, we consume

almost exclusively farm-bred Pacific oysters,

where the taste barely changes over the seasons,

rendering the rule moot.

When correctly handled, oysters aren’t as

fragile or prone to spoiling as their reputation

suggests. They should be kept refrigerated

with ample access to air; furthermore,

they must be consumed alive. You can

easily tell a live oyster from dead one as the

former is impossible to open without tools

– their adductor muscle, which opens and

shuts the shell, is extremely strong. Opened

oysters should contract slightly when

sprinkled with lemon juice. And if you have

leftovers after a party, oysters can be cooked

in myriad ways – there are fantastic recipes

from all over the world!

<

Photo: stockcreations/Shutterstock


nordics / ESSAY

THE ART OF THE OPEN

SANDWICH

Few culinary traditions capture the Danish spirit as gracefully as smørrebrød.

Layered on dark rye and adorned with vibrant toppings, these open sandwiches

are as much art as sustenance – a harmony of flavor, texture, and Nordic

restraint. From the humble lunches of 19th-century workers to today’s refined

cafés pairing each creation with beer and aquavit, smørrebrød remains a

national treasure: generous, elegant, and unmistakably Danish.

Strolling through a Danish town –

perhaps along an old, cobbled

street lined with half-timbered

houses – you will, without doubt,

sooner or later stop in front of a

shop window filled with artfully made

sandwiches of every kind: fresh, colorful,

finely decorated and appetizing – smørrebrød,

in short – one of the most quintessentially

Danish phenomena imaginable.

The word itself comes from Danish smør

(butter) + brød (bread), but the reality is far

more refined than that. Smørrebrød are

utterly elaborate – almost like savory pastries

– and come in countless varieties.

Many countries, of course, have their

own singature variants. In Europe alone,

you’ll find Swedish sandvikare, Norwegian

skiver, Finnish avoin voileipä, British sandwiches,

Spanish bocadillos, Italian panini,

French tartines, German Butterbrote, Austrian

belegtes Brot, Polish kanapki, and

Dutch boterhammen. Yet the Danish version

is undoubtedly unique in being both

substantial and elegant.

DANISH DELI

The smørrebrød should not be confused

with the world-famous Swedish smörgåsbord,

which despite its name – literally

meaning “sandwich table” – consists of a

buffet with an abundance of small dishes,

from gravlax and pickled herring to roast

beef and smoked salmon. True, many of the

same ingredients appear on smørrebrød,

but not in the form of sandwiches.

Back to the walk. In the shop before you

– the smørrebrødsforretning – you will face

a large selection. To pick, you’ll need to fill

out a smørrebrødsseddel — an order sheet

where you tick your choices, and generally

includes the following classics:

Leverpostej is one of Denmark’s most

beloved smørrebrød, and features either

warm or cold liver pâté on rye, often topped

with crisp bacon and sautéed

mushrooms. Roast beef, also on buttered

rye bread, is another: the classic version

comes topped with remoulade sauce,

freshly grated horseradish, crispy onions

and pickled cucumber.

Dyrlægens natmad (lit. “the veterinarian’s

midnight snack”) is a beautifully layered

creation with – going from top to bottom –

liver pâté, salt-cured beef, aspic, raw onion

and pickled cucumber. Rullepølse (spiced

meat roll) uses a similar combination, but

the main ingredient is thinly sliced, spiced,

boiled and pressed cold cuts, either of pork

or lamb.

Fiskefilet consists of breaded and fried

fish fillet (plaice is standard) on rye with

remoulade sauce, lemon, lettuce and dill.

Karrysild (curried herring) also enjoys enduring

popularity: pickled herring in a mild

curry sauce with apple, onion and sometimes

capers, served on rye, often with a

boiled egg.

Photos: siamionau pavel/Shutterstock, Maria Annas


JENS LINDER

(b. 1964) is a chef and

award-winning food

writer for the Swedish

newspaper Dagens

Nyheter, as

well as the author

of around twenty

cookbooks.

As the name suggests, Tatar is finely

chopped raw beef on rye, topped with a

raw egg yolk, capers, chopped onion and

horseradish, sometimes complemented with

beetroot or small gherkins. And no selection

would be complete without smoked or

cured salmon on rye with dill and lemon,

sometimes with prawns and a spoonful of

horseradish cream or mustard dressing.

Two poetically named variations are Stjerneskud

(shooting star), a festive smørrebrød

featuring both steamed and fried fish fillets,

hand-peeled prawns, mayonnaise, lemon

and dill, often served on white bread instead

of rye; and Sol over Gudhjem (“sun over

Gudhjem”), which is smoked herring on rye,

topped with a raw egg yolk (the sun) and

finely chopped onion and chives – a classic

from the island of Bornholm, it’s as pretty as

it is iconic.

STILL BEST ENJOYED

WITH BEER AND

SNAPS, CERTAIN

AKVAVITS ARE SAID TO

PAIR ESPECIALLY WELL

WITH CERTAIN

SMØRREBRØD.

BIRTH OF AN ICON

Yet for all its luxe combinations, the origins

of smørrebrød are quite humble. It first

appeared in the early 19th century as a simple

leftover lunch for workers and farmers:

The coarse sourdough rye bread of the time

was spread with a layer of butter and topped

with the remains of yesterday’s dinner,

then wrapped in paper or cloth and eaten

cold during the working day. As industrialization

spread through Denmark, the idea

gradually spread to the growing number of

factory workers needing a quick and filling

meal. In time, inns began serving such

popular sandwiches with beer or snaps.

Eventually, small shops and stalls

appeared in Copenhagen, selling these

sandwiches as smørrebrød. Often run by

women, these snacks were inexpensive but

held in high regard, beautifully decorated

and delicious. Toward the end of the century,

cafés moved smørrebrød in a more luxurious

direction, with sifted bread, elaborate

toppings and ever richer garnish.

And so, smørrebrød remain today –

popular, yet refined. Still best enjoyed with

beer and snaps, certain akvavits are said to

pair especially well with certain smørrebrød:

A classic roast beef with remoulade is

said to unfold its true character with a

cumin-spiced akvavit and a dark lager, as

the beer’s roasted malt harmonizes with the

meat and the sweetness of the remoulade.

The golden curried herring, on the other

hand, comes to life with a dill-spiced akvavit

and a light pilsner, as the clean bitterness

of the latter refreshes the palate between

the herring’s sweet-and-tangy tones.

And mild smoked salmon with horse radish

is best served with a fennel- and anisespiced

akvavit and some wheat beer for a

gentle interplay of herbs and fruit.

So, step inside the shop and take your

pick! And don’t forget, “En bajer og en lille!”

– beer and snaps!

<

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

93

Wine Editor

HANS WEJNEFALK

LARSSON

WINE

A GREAT YEAR FOR

DANISH WINE

Denmark’s wineries are looking forward

to one of their best harvests,

thanks to some highly opportune

weather this year. The EU recognized

Denmark as a wine producing nation in

2000, as producers began planting varieties

like Solaris and Rondo tailored to the harsh

Scandinavian climate. Today, the country

boasts around 175 hectares of vineyards and

125 licensed producers, although just a

handful of major players like Dyrehøj

Vingaard, Skærsøgaard, and Lille Gadegård

dominate production. Over the years, production

has shifted from mainly red to white

and sparkling wines.

FINALLY! SWEDEN

ALLOWS DIRECT

WINE SALES

After years of debate, Sweden has finally

legalized direct sales of alcohol: As of 1

June, wineries across the country are allowed

to sell their wares directly. While many

vintners have reported a noticeable boost in

sales and greater engagement with customers,

the reform comes with restrictions:

Both the timing of purchases and the quantities

permitted are regulated in line with

national policy. Even so, the move marks a

major shift for small producers who have

long campaigned for the right to sell their

wares directly rather than relying solely on

the state monopoly, Systembolaget.

SANTORINI WINES

INCREASINGLY RARE

Famed for its volcanic soils, the Greek

island of Santorini is facing its smallest

harvest in memory: a mere 350 tons. The

result of drought and vintners selling land

to hotel developers, a few projects aim to

stem the decline; meanwhile, enjoy their

world-class Assyrtiko wines while you can.

94 falstaff

dec-feb 2026

NEWS

SEEDS OF CHANGE IN BORDEAUX

Photos: Goskova Tatiana/Shutterstock , Charlie Bennetcharliebennet.com, Jerker Andersson, Alexandra Lebon, provided

One of the world’s most

prestigious wine regions

is going through changes.

In August, the influential

Guinaudeau family

announced that all their

wines — including

Château Lafleur — will be

labelled Vin de France.

This designation is far

less stringent than

Appellation d‘Origine

Contrôlée, allowing greater

freedom in grape

selection and style.

A QUARTER OF AUSTRIAN

WINE IS ORGANIC

PIEMONTE GOES

WHITE

Best known for its rolling hills

and the iconic red wine grape

Nebbiolo, change is afoot in

northeastern Italy’s Piemonte

region. According to the latest

data, white wine varieties like

Cortese, Arneis, Erbaluce,

Nascetta and Timorasso

account for approximately

31 – 40% of all planted grapes

in the region, while red varieties

have decreased by 11%

since 2008.

Austria has taken Europe’s organic wine movement to new

heights: A full 25% of the country’s vineyards are now certified

organic, putting it well ahead of major producers like France

(17.4%) and Spain (17.8%). The surge reflects a broader European

shift toward greener farming, but Austria’s pace sets it apart.

Organic viticulture emphasizes soil vitality, vine health,

and sustainability — and in Austria, it’s no longer a niche, but

a quarter of the industry. austrianwine.com

THERE’S A NEW DOCG IN ITALY

Cirò, in Calabria’s Crotone province, has

just made history: It is now very first in

the region to have Italy’s top-tier DOCG

designation, joining only 78 other appellations.

Shaped by the Ionian Sea and the

Sila Mountains, Cirò’s warm climate is

perfect for Gaglioppo, a little-known

native grape that produces wines bursting

with raspberry and redcurrant flavors,

backed by firm tannins and a

refreshing acidity. Tucked away in Calabria’s

north-east — the “toe” of Italy’s

boot —Cirò has now proved it can stand

among the country’s elite wine regions.

MERGERS AND AQUISITIONS

AMONG THE MONOPOLES

The Vranken-Pommery Monopole group

has divested itself of the Heidsieck & Co.

Monopole brand, selling it to the

champagne conglomerate Lanson-BCC.

Proudly calling itself „Le groupe 100%

Champagne“,the latter now boasts nine

brands, offering champagnes from

Lanson, de Venoge, Besserat de Bellefon,

Boizel, Alexandre Bonnet, Maison Burtin

(with Alfred Rothschild), Philipponnat,

and Chanoine Frères in addition to their

latest aquisition.

lanson-bcc.com


wine / CHAMPAGNE

CHAMPAGNE

TIMELESS

ELEGANCE

Tradition and modernity have

been intertwined in Champagne

for centuries, with vintners and

Champagne houses creating a vibrant

culture that produces wines of

unmistakable elegance. Recognized as

a UNESCO World Heritage Site for the

last 10 years, Champagne remains a

sparkling symbol of the French way of

life – fascinating and timeless.

TEXT GERHILD BURKARD

Modern Champagne production

combines centuries of tradition with

cutting-edge technology.

Photo: Michael Boudot

96 falstaff

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wine / CHAMPAGNE

THE BOURGEOIS-DIAZ

FAMILY’S STYLE

IS CHARACTERIZED

BY BIODYNAMIC

PRECISION AND

GREAT RESPECT FOR

THE TERROIR.

J

ust under 50 kilometers from

Paris, on the western edge of the

Champagne appellation, lies the

Bourgeois-Diaz winery in the

tranquil village of Crouttes-sur-Marne.

Their picturesque vineyards

on the gentle slopes of the Marne Valley

offer sweeping views of the river bends.

The special microclimate, characterized

by rivers, forests, and calcareous and clay

soils, gives the wines remarkable minerality

and depth.

For four generations, the Bourgeois-Diaz

family has been cultivating their seven

hectares biodynamically. Jérôme Bourgeois

and his wife, Charlotte, are among those

independent winegrowers who have made

a name for themselves in Champagne through

focused, consistent work. “Respect

for the terroir and a balanced blend of

fruit, complexity, and enjoyability – that,

for me, is the essence of my Champagnes,”

Jérôme explains. “I achieve this through

homemade biodynamic additives, careful

observation of nature, and minimal

intervention in the cellar.” His Blanc de

Noirs Brut Nature 2022, made from 100%

Meunier, impressed juries with its refined

Jérôme and Charlotte Bourgeois‘

vineyards produce a new generation

of unconventional

Champagnes from

biodynamic

viticulture.

Leclerc Briant is one of

the pioneers of organic

and biodynamic viticulture

in Champagne.

Photos: Michael Boudot, Serge Chapuis, Jefflanet, Leclerc Briant, Champagne Louis Roederer

98 falstaff

dec–feb 2026

Sustainable viticulture and careful soil

cultivation ensure the future of the

Champagne appellation.

clarity and juicy elegance. His commitment

to agroforestry is also particularly noteworthy:

by planting trees between vines,

he actively contributes to biodiversity and

soil fertility. And Bourgeois-Diaz aren’t the

only biodynamic producers making waves:

Pierre Deville and Augustin consistently

receive high ratings, while Leclerc Briant,

one of the pioneers of this movement,

stood out with its Blanc de Blancs Millésime

Extra Brut 2018. All these wines share

a complexity, energetic finesse, and often

surprising variations far removed from the

mainstream – an iteration of Champagne

that is constantly evolving with courage

and creativity.

SUSTAINABLE FUTURE

Organic and biodynamic farming methods

have also long been established among the

major players. For Louis Roederer it’s a priority:

Its 2016

vintage of its

prestigious Cristal

cuvée was their fifth

biodynamic edition. Its

racy elegance, precise tension,

and distinctive mineral depth were particularly

praised.

For cellar master Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon,

organic farming is just one of the elements

required for securing the long-term future

of Champagne. “For me, it‘s also about

biodiversity and the genetic heritage of our

vines,” he emphasizes. Roederer has been

operating its own nursery since 2008, where

vines are selected and preserved.

Under the leadership of the CIVC (Comité

interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne),

several producers have joined forces

to build the most diverse vine bank possible.

This shared resource is designed to

<

Louis Roederer has committed to

biodiversity in its vineyards as a way

to ensure the future of Champagne for

generations to come.

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

99

wine / CHAMPAGNE

The Maison Drappier proudly

celebrates a decade of carbon

neutrality this year.

<

ensure the most suitable specimens can

return to the vineyard anytime – an investment

in quality, resilience, and the future

of the appellation.

Other sustainable initiatives are also

coming into their own: Champagne Drappier

recently celebrated ten years of CO 2

neutrality and achieved high ratings for its

Quattuor Extra Brut NV. Moët Hennessy

is investing heavily in climate protection,

biodiversity, and carbon storage. In the

latest Falstaff Trophy, the maison received

top marks for its Krug Grande Cuvée

173ème Édition Brut NV and Dom Ruinart

Blanc de Blancs Brut 2013 – a success sadly

overshadowed by the tragic death of Ruinart‘s

long-standing cellar master Frédéric

Panaïotis, in charge of Ruinart‘s oenological

identity since 2007.

At the same time, the Champagne region’s

own “Viticulture Durable en Champagne”

label, has become increasingly relevant:

43 percent of Champagne’s 34,200

hectares of vineyards are now certified.

The production of organic Champagnes

is rising steadily and currently stands at

around eight percent. Last year, the CIVC

association‘s sustainability criteria were

expanded to include social aspects and improved

working conditions. Champagne

is thus broadening its approach to make

its unique cultural landscape sustainable

for the future.

BITTER TRUTHS

However, behind the glitz and the

glamour lies a harsh reality: according

to the Comité Champagne, only

CHAMPAGNE POMMERY IS NOT

ONLY KNOWN FOR ITS

CHAMPAGNE CUVÉES, BUT ALSO

FOR ITS 18 KMS OF CHALK CELLARS.

271.4 million bottles were exported in

2024 – a global decline of nine percent

compared to the previous year. Frosty

spring nights and wet summers led to

significant crop losses in 2024. To ensure

a balance between supply and demand,

the Comité limited the harvest to 10,000

kilograms per hectare in 2024 and 9,000

kilograms per hectare in 2025.

In this demanding environment, some

producers are making particularly impressive

commitments to uncompromising quality.

Among them is Laurent Perrier with

<

Photos: Philippe Martineau, Francois Nascimbeni/AFP/picturedesk.com, Leif Carlsson (2), Pol Roger, travelstock44/Lookphotos/picturedesk.com

100 falstaff

dec–feb 2026

THE ART OF WINE.

DOWN TO EARTH.

Nestled between the continental

warmth and cool northern currents,

Austrian wines flourish in the heart of

Europe. These ideal climatic conditions

foster the growth of noble and elegant

wines with EU-protected designation

of origin. You can always spot them by

the red-white-red capsule tops and the

official quality wine check number on

the label.

austrianwine.com

wine / CHAMPAGNE

<

its outstanding Grand Siècle Iteration

N°24: The cuvée, blended from the 2004,

2006, and 2007 vintages, embodies the

elegance and consistency that has characterized

the house for decades and captivates

with complexity, a multi-layered character,

and long-lasting finish. Also highly

rated were prestige vintage Champagnes

like Pol Roger‘s Winston Churchill 2015

Brut, Pommery‘s still lively and gracefully

matured Cuvée Louise Brut 2006, and

Billecart-Salmon‘s Nicolas François Extra

Brut 2012, a tribute to the founder of the

maison.

Each composed

of three old

vintages, the

prestigious

cuvées Grand

Siècle Iteration

mature in the

cellars of the

Montagne de

Reims.

LA VIE EN ROSE

Rosé Champagnes continue to reach new

heights in both quality and popularity,

experiencing a global boom. Among those

that impressed in the tasting were Laurent-Perrier

with its rare Alexandra Rosé

Millésimé 2012 Brut, Louis Roederer’s Brut

Rosé Brut 2017, and Charles Heidsieck

and its Rosé Réserve Brut NV. At Charles

Heidsieck, Élise Losfelt handed over the

position of cellar master to Émilien Erard

after two years. Erard has been working

in a management position at the

company since 2018.

Looking back on 150 years of

history, Pol Roger is one of the

few champagne houses that are

still entirely a family business.

CHAMPAGNE – PAST, PRESENT

AND FUTURE

Despite challenges like extreme weather,

declining sales, and global crises, Champagne

houses and independent winegrowers

remain committed to their high standards.

With a spirit of innovation, precision

craftsmanship, and uncompromising

quality, they are looking to the future.

Fortunately, the 2025 vintage already promises

exceptional quality despite an early

harvest. New, fresh ideas and diversity in

the vineyard, social responsibility and care

for the terroir show that Champagne is not

only a symbol of luxury and elegance, but,

above all, a promise to preserve UNESCO

World Heritage while continuing to provide

sparkling moments of joy. <

Photos: Philippe Martineau, Francois Nascimbeni/AFP/picturedesk.com, Leif Carlsson (2), Pol Roger, travelstock44/Lookphotos/picturedesk.com


“Hip Hip Hurra”

Peder Sverin Krøyer - “Hip Hip Hurra” - Photo: Göteborg Kunstmuseum, Sweden.

champagne-skagen.com

wine / SPARKLING

CHAMPAGNE:

SPARKLING

SENSATIONS

In time for the holiday season, we’ve tasted and tested the

very best Champagnes available – each of these bottles are

worthy of any celebration!

100 Points

Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Itération

N°24 Magnum Brut NV

Champagne Laurent-Perrier,

Tours-sur-Marne

12 Vol.-%, (Vintages 2004/2006/2007) Medium

golden yellow, with a fine, lively mousse.

A complex and multi-layered bouquet, with

notes of hazelnut and orange zest, hints of

coffee, nougat and baked apple. Silky and

very fine on the palate, with a creamy

mousse, perfectly ripe acidity, hints of stone

fruit, candied citrus fruit and wonderful notes

of maturity, lingers for an extremely long

time. Grandiose!

laurent-perrier.com, ca. € 549

98 Points

2013 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs

Extra Brut

Champagne Ruinart, Reims

12,5 Vol.-%,Pale white gold, silver reflec-

tions. Captivating toasty notes on the

nose, with arancini, nougat, honey, orange

zest, yeasty nuances and hints of chamomile,

complex and harmonious. On the palate,

a fine mousse, well-integrated acidity

and a long, lingering finish. Drinks perfectly

now.

ruinart.com, ca. € 285

2016 Roederer Cristal Brut

Champagne Louis Roederer,

Reims Cedex France

12,5 Vol.-%, Brilliant golden yellow color.

On the nose, complex aromas of white

fruit, juicy mirabelle plum and peach, accompanied

by woodruff, almond blossom

and ethereal citrus notes. With hints of

butter cake, wet stone and a fine sea breeze.

The palate is multi-layered and vivid,

supported by lively, refined acidity and

chalky, racy tension. The finest, supple

foam lends additional elegance. Concentration

and freshness merge on the long,

saline-mineral finish.

An electrifying Champagne full of depth

and exceptional refinement – already seductive,

with great ageing potential.

louis-roederer.com, ca. € 260

97 Points

Krug Grande Cuvée 173ème Édition

Brut NV

Champagne Krug, Reims

12,5 Vol.-%, Bright golden yellow color. Intense

flavors of ripe yellow stone fruit, pineapple

confit, crème brûlée and almond paste,

complemented by fresh brioche and

lemon curd. Full-bodied on the palate with a

very fine acidity. Chalky-salty notes and fine

tannins lend structure. Youthful, savory

freshness and lemon confit merge into opulent,

woody-spicy elegance. Long-lasting

pleasure.

krug.com, ca. € 240.91

96 Points

2014 Champagne Deutz Amour de

Deutz Millésime Brut

Champagne Deutz, Aÿ

12 Vol.-%, Pale golden yellow, silver reflections,

fine, persistent mousse. On the nose,

delicate nuances of madeleines and a hint

Photos: Tony Chen/Unsplash, provided


of stone fruit, underlaid with notes of ripe

mango and papaya, blossom honey and a

mineral touch. Taut on the palate, mediumbodied,

notes of white apple, full of finesse,

very well-balanced hints of yellow tropical

fruit and white nougat on the salty finish. A

delicate, almost tender, youthful style.

champagne-deutz.com, ca. € 189

2015 Champagne Bollinger La Grande

Année Brut

Champagne Bollinger, Aÿ

12,5 Vol.-%, A complex bouquet with aromas

of plum, fig, violet, sweet spices such as vanilla

and liquorice as well as undergrowth,

mushrooms and moss. Full-bodied and filling

on the palate, supported by a delicate

mousse. A good balance between acidity

and dosage, with a finish of savory, yeasty

roasted flavours of baked rye bread, candied

kumquat and good length.

champagne-bollinger.com, ca. € 199.98

95 Points

Champagne Palmer & Co Amazone de

Palmer NV

Champagne Palmer & Co, Reims

12 Vol.-%, A lovely note of fresh Viennoiserie

is as reminscent of butter as it is of

lemon. Beneath that is a fresher, cooler

note of green apple and wet chalk. The palate

picks up that rich pastry note and adds

lively lemon zest and a sense of creaminess.

This is elegant, concentrated and vivid

with very fine mousse. Lovely depth

adds extra dimension and gives much

length to the fresh, bright finish.

champagne-palmer.fr, ca. € 131.78

2018 Veuve Clicquot

La Grande Dame Brut

Champagne Veuve Clicquot, Reims

12,5 Vol.-%, Yellow-fruity, elegant and nuanced

with hints of quince jelly, chamomile,

brioche and dried apricots. Complex, longlasting

and powerful on the palate, with a

perfect balance between ripeness and acidity.

The well-placed dosage supports the fine

texture and lets the flavours shine. Fine

yeast perfume in the finish – an elegant,

true grande dame.

veuveclicquot.com, ca. € 212.71

94 Points

Champagne Bollinger Special Cuvée

Brut NV


12 Vol.-%, Medium golden yellow. Fine bubbles.

Candied citrus zest on the nose, light

stone fruit, green apple, subtle hints of pastry

and honey. Slender and elegant on the

palate with a sweet center and very fine,

creamy mousse. Harmonious and saltycitrusy

on the juicy finish. Hardly better

value for money.

champagne-bollinger.com, ca, € 36.29

Champagne Charles Heidsieck Rosé

Réserve Brut NV

Charles Heidsieck, Reims

12 Vol.-%, Light salmon pink in color with silvery

reflections, and a delicate, finely sparkling

mousse. On the nose, a hint of mandarin

zest and raspberry, mineral, with candied

lime zest, and delicate pastry notes. The textural

palate is elegant, fresh and persistent

with notes of white stone fruit and some

pineapple, a multi-faceted food wine.

charlesheidsieck.com, ca. €77.21

93 Points

Champagne Bollinger Rosé Brut NV


12 Vol.-%, Medium salmon pink, orange reflections,

delicate mousse. Fine red berry

nuances, white stone fruit, preserved cherry,

mineral touch. Juicy, elegant, fresh acidity,

salty-mineral finish, has length, a precise

food companion.

champagne-bollinger.com, ca. € 75.39

Champagne Charles Heidsieck Blanc

de Blancs Brut NV


12 Vol.-%, Brilliant golden yellow hue. Fine

notes of Amalfi lemon and fresh yeast bread

on the nose, with hints of vanilla cream,

roasted nuts and candied peach. Velvety

mousse on the palate with a creamy, delicately

sweetish attack, accompanied by juicy

salted lemon, which provides refreshing tension.

Complex, long finish of white nougat

and an elegant mineral touch.

charlesheidsieck.com, ca. € 66.30

Champagne Bollinger PN VZ 19 Blanc

de Noirs Brut NV


12,5 Vol.-%, Light golden yellow, silver reflections,

very fine mousse. Delicate notes of

plums and yellow plum, a hint of madeleines,

candied lime zest, mineral underpinnings.

Juicy, elegant, white stone fruit, integrated

acidity, nutty touch, approachable

and easy to drink.

champagne-bollinger.com, ca. € 139

Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut

Réserve NV


12 Vol.-%, Medium golden yellow, silver reflections

and a fine, lively mousse. An inviting

bouquet, with delicate aromas of walnut

and madeleines, yellow apple, mango,

blossom honey and candied orange zest.

Complex and freshly structured on the palate,

with notes of white stone fruit. An elegant,

versatile food wine, already accessible.

charlesheidsieck.com, €52.66

Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur Brut NV

Champagne Ayala, Aÿ

12 Vol.-%, Light golden yellow with silvery reflections,

and a delicate mousse. On the

nose, aromas of fresh yellow apple, some biscuit,

and nuances of orange zest. The medium-bodied

palate has integrated acidity,

with white stone fruit, fine blossom honey

and lime notes, a versatile food wine.

champagne-ayala.fr, ca. € 54.47

92 Punkte

Champagne Pierre Péters Cuvée

de Réserve Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru

Brut NV

Champagne Pierre Péters

Le Mesnil sur Oger

12 Vol.-%, Medium green yellow, silver reflections,

persistent mousse. Mineral, a hint of

herbs and lime zest, fine touch of white

peach, inviting bouquet. Taut, tightly woven,

delicate apple notes, fresh and mineral, an

appetizing, elegant style with definite

ageing potential.

champagne-peters.com, ca. € 61.37

Champagne Deutz Rosé Brut NV

Champagne Deutz, Aÿ

12 Vol.-%, Medium salmon pink, copper gold

reflections, delicate mousse. Delicate notes

of fresh orange zest, a hint of red berry confit,

subtle smoky minerality, fresh bouquet.

Complex, with nuances of red berries, fresh

orchard fruits, lively acidity, balanced, mineral

and lemony finish, versatile.

champagne-deutz.com, ca. € 66.56

91 Points

Champagne Côte Brute Brut NV

Champagne Le Brun de Neuville, Bethon

12,5 Vol.-%, Light golden yellow in color. The

nose is fresh, with aromas of green apple,

walnut, lime, some peach and mineral nuances.

The palate is rather slender with a subtle

sweetness, fine mousse and notes of

pastry and berries on the saline finish.

lebrundeneuville.fr, ca. € 44

<

dec–feb 2026

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105

wine / SPARKLING

BEST OF

BLANC DE BLANC

96

94

93

2018 CHAMPAGNE LECLERC

BRIANT BLANC DE BLANCS

MILLÉSIME EXTRA BRUT

Champagne Leclerc Briant

Light yellow gold in color with silvery

reflections, and a fine, persistent

mousse. On the nose, fine, inviting

aromas of mango and papaya, candied

orange zest, and a hint of white

nougat. The palate is firm, tight-knit

and finely structured, saline-mineral

with a hint of walnut, showing great

balance, freshness and persistence,

easy to drink, incredibly versatile.

leclercbriant.fr

ca. € 125

CHAMPAGNE DRAPPIER

QUATTUOR EXTRA BRUT NV

Champagne Drappier

Medium straw yellow. Complex aroma

of lemon jam, ripe mirabelle

plum and vanilla, accompanied by

delicate wood spice and a hint of red

fruit. Finely sparkling on the palate,

with lively, precise acidity accompanied

by delicate, tart notes of grapefruit.

Lavender honey and subtle

toasted aromas on the finish. Good

length. A characterful companion to

food.

champagne-drappier.com

ca. € 99.83

2020 ANTOINE CHEVALIER

CARKONNIA BLANC DE BLANCS

EXTRA BRUT

Champagne Antoine Chevalier

Pale, brilliant lemon yellow. The

nose is layered with white peach,

mirabelle plum and apricot, accompanied

by exotic nuances and a delicate

woody savoriness. Grippy and

full-bodied on the palate, with a

biting acidity and medium mousse.

Tart notes of tobacco and smoke

linger. Needs air to fully develop.

Fascinating, powerful character.

champagneantoinechevalier.com

ca. € 64.90

96

94

93

2014 CHAMPAGNE DEUTZ

AMOUR DE DEUTZ MILLÉSIME

BRUT

Champagne Deutz

Pale golden yellow, silver reflections,

finemousse. Delicate nuances

of madeleines and a hint of stone

fruit on the nose, underlaid with ripe

mango and papaya, honey and a

mineral touch. Taut on the palate,

medium-bodied, notes of white

apple, balanced hints of tropical

fruit and white nougat on the salty

finish. A tender, youthful style.

champagne-deutz.com

ca. € 189

CHAMPAGNE VALENTIN

LEFLAIVE 16/40 GRAND CRU

EXTRA BRUT NV

Valentin Leflaive Champagne

Light golden yellow, with silvercolored

reflections and a fine mousse.

Delicate yellow orchard-fruit

nuances, ripe pear touches, some

yellow greengage, delicate hints of

baked goods and orange zest. Complex,

with Golden Delicious apple,

fine fruit and integrated acidity, it is

developed and in a gastronomically

versatile style. Salty finish.

valentin-leflaive.com

ca. € 389

CHAMPAGNE CHARLES

HEIDSIECK BLANC DE BLANCS

BRUT NV

Charles Heidsieck

Brilliant golden yellow color. Fine

notes of Amalfi lemon and fresh

yeast bread on the nose, with hints

of vanilla cream, roasted nuts and

candied peach. Velvety mousse on

the palate with a creamy, delicately

sweet attack, accompanied by juicy

salted lemon, which provides refreshing

tension. Complex, long finish of

white nougat and an elegant mineral

touch.

charlesheidsieck.com, ca. €66.30

95

94

93

2015 CHAMPAGNE POL ROGER

BLANC DE BLANCS BRUT

Champagne Pol Roger

Bright, golden yellow with silver

reflections. Complex bouquet with

notes of fresh bread, acacia blossom

and candied lime, underpinned

by ripe mango and lemon balm. Creamy

mouthfeel, carried by the finest

mousse, with a juicy, cultivated acidity

and subtle, chalky depth. Finish

is reminiscent of light salted caramel.

Already matured and noble,

with definite ageing potential.

polroger.com, ca. € 95

2016 CHAMPAGNE JACQUART

BLANC DE BLANCS BRUT

Champagne Jacquart

Fine mousse, very delicate, vinous

nose – complex and multilayered

with notes of mandarin, pear, chalk,

toffee, brioche, quince bread and

fresh salted butter. It continues to

develop with air. Extremely animating

on the palate, the dosage is perfectly

balanced, the texture is silky.

Delicate, playful and slender, with

great length and a fine yeasty finish.

champagne-jacquart.com

ca. € 72.95

LAURENT-PERRIER BLANC DE

BLANCS BRUT NATURE NV

Champagne Laurent-Perrier

Pale silver, green reflections. On the

nose, notes of green apple, tropical

nuances, white flowers, lime, toasted

nuts and a mineral touch.

Straightforward and taut on the

palate, with a fine mousse, subtle

pastry notes, a lemony touch, concise

acidity and a long, juicy, slightly

salty finish.

laurent-perrier.com

ca. € 92.50

<

Photos: provided


BRÜNDLMAYER

BRÜNDLMAYER –

K A MPTA L’S FINEST

The name Bründlmayer is regarded worldwide as a synonym

for consistent top quality.

Willi Bründlmayer,

Andreas Wickhoff MW

and Thomas Klinger in

front of the remuage

rack house, the

“Sektrüttelhaus”.

ADVERTORIAL Pictures: A (2), Moritz Ablinger (1)

Almost every wine, from the lightest

Grüner Veltliner to the red

wines and sparkling wines, has

the potential to be the best of its

vintage in its category,« writes Peter Moser

in the Falstaff Wine Guide. This comprehensive

package is made possible by the region

of origin of these fine wines, the Kamptal.

The unique geology and microclimate allow

most of the grape varieties cultivated in

Austria to find an ideal location here. The

vineyards of the Bründlmayer family are

located on the hills surrounding the Lower

Austrian wine town of Langenlois. Characteristic

of Weingut Bründlmayer are the

magnificent hillside and terraced sites on

gneiss and paragneiss soils, complemented

by deep loess and clay soils.

The most important grape variety is the

native Grüner Veltliner. From pleasantly

light-footed examples such to complex single-vineyard

wines the thick-skinned, spicy

Grüner Veltliner produces an incredible

diversity of flavors. It expresses the character

of its vineyard like hardly any other

variety. The harmonious Grüner Veltliner

Langenloiser Alte Reben, made from selected

grapes from different vineyards in Langenlois,

delights wine lovers and experts

alike every year. The 2023 vintage was once

again crowned the winner of the Falstaff

DAC Local Wine Cup.

Also of central importance to the estate

is Riesling, which traditionally thrives on

meager rocky soils, especially in the

famous Heiligenstein. The Heiligenstein

vineyard in Zöbing, right next to Langenlois,

is Austria’s grand cru for Riesling and

ranks alongside the legendary Riesling

vineyards in Germany and Alsace. Two of

Bründlmayer’s most fascinating wines

come from this site. The classic Ried Heiligenstein

1ÖTW offers a salty, refined foretaste

of the sensory peacock’s tail that the

Riesling Heiligenstein 1ÖTW Alte Reben

then has to offer. Despite its complexity,

this wine has a lightness, freshness, and

balance that only the very greatest representatives

of the Riesling variety deliver.

Willi Bründlmayer is also considered

Austria’s pioneer of high-quality sparkling

wine. Using Burgundy varieties such as

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as base wine he

is following the French model. Today,

Bründlmayer is considered the Austrian

benchmark by lovers of sparkling wines.

INFO

bruendlmayer.at


wine / CHAMPAGNE

CHAMPAGNE PALMER:

GUARDIANS

OF STYLE

When the Champagne Palmer cooperative was founded in

1947, the seven founders had a vision: Together, we can

achieve more. Now, nearly 80 years later, their brand has

succeeded beyond their wildest expectations.

TEXT MARIE OSKARSSON

There are few wine regions

with as many cooperatives as

Champagne. After all, pooling

resources makes a lot of sense,

and helps individual producers

by sharing equipment and marketing costs.

But when the founders of the Champagne

Palmer cooperative in Reims joined forces

in 1947, they had entirely different motives.

They realized that greater achievements

could be made through collaboration.

“The founders’ goal was the product itself.

They were seven winegrowers with Premier

Cru and Grand Cru sites in Montagne

The Palmer cooperative in Reims consists of 350 growers

managing 440 hectares.

de Reims – friends – who produced their

own Champagne, but wanted to achieve

more. They wanted their own cuvée, a

top-quality Champagne and a brand,” says

Rémi Vervier, CEO of Champagne Palmer.

“This was shortly after World War II, and

England has traditionally been a major

market. That’s why they chose an English

name – they were aiming for the export

market from the start,” continues François

Demouy, the cooperative’s Communications

Manager.

In 1959, they purchased a Champagne

house with five kilometers of cellars in

Reims – perfect for storing Champagne.

Since then, the operation has expanded significantly.

Champagne Palmer has now taken

over the entire block – and has additional

production facilities outside the city.

Today, the cooperative consists of around

350 growers on long-term contracts (20 years),

who collectively manage 440 hectares

and sell their entire harvest to the cooperative.

The vineyard plots in Montagne de

Reims remain the heart of Champagne Palmer,

but they also have vineyards in Côte de

Sézanne, Côte de Bar, and the Marne Valley.

“We are one of the specialists in Montagne

de Reims,” says Vervier. “The winegrowers

are very proud to be part of Palmer.”

HOUSE STYLE

The founders’ vision – to create a cuvée of

the highest quality and a maison that could

become a real brand together – has, in

many ways, been realized. For connoisseurs

and critics, Champagne Palmer stands for

well-crafted Champagnes with a consistently

high standard.

Should one forget Champagne Palmer’s

characteristic flavor profile, they maintain

a gigantic wine library where all vintages

from 1947 onwards are preserved, both in

75 cl and magnum bottles. There, the cooperative’s

oenologists can go back to

the roots for reference, if needed.

“We can go all the way back

to 1947 to see how the wines

have evolved and ensure that the

house’s signature remains the

same. We use the same recipe as

70 years ago – we love our reserve

wines,” Demouy remarks.

“Great years are wonderful for

everyone in Champagne, but it’s during

the tougher years that the difference

shows,” adds Vervier. “We now have five

oenologists at Palmer, and what we create is

continuity. We are guardians of a style, not

artists.”

Even so, getting the cuvée just right can

be challenging: “There’s a lot of pressure

every year when we make the blend,” Vervier

admits. “That’s why we’re five people,

and we all have to agree. Twice a year, we

go back to the cellar to see how the wines

are developing and decide what to do.

Everyone must know the house style inside

and out”

Photos: Champagne Palmer, Simon Guillemin, Emmanuel Goulet (2)


But even a Champagne

house like Palmer,

which carefully upholds

Champagne’s time-honored

traditions, has to go

with the times; Climate change

and increasing demands for

sustainability are becoming ever bigger

issues. “You always have to stay curious

when working with nature, because nature

constantly gives us new conditions. And

climate change brings new challenges,”

says Vervier.

KEEPING WITH THE

TIMES, CHAMPAGNE

PALMER HAS HELPED

ITS GROWERS

TRANSITION TO

SUSTAINABLE

VITICULTURE.

The character of Champagne

Palmer is safeguarded by a wine

library documenting all vintages

since its founding in 1947.

“We see the effects primarily as unpredictable

extreme weather. For example,

we’ve had hail and frost in June,” Demouy

continues. “Fifteen years ago, it took us

four weeks to harvest. Today, we have at

most ten days to bring in the grapes because

of climate change. Everything moves

faster.”

The 2025 harvest was a stark reminder

of that simple fact, finishing earlier

than ever – before September. “It’s usually

said that it’s 100 days from blossoming to

harvest, but this year, it was only 82 days!

Ten years ago, we had a harvest window

of 8–10 days per vineyard. Today, there

are just two or three days when the grapes

are perfect,” Vervier explains. “Everything

moves so fast! Sustainability is everything.

It’s important to all of us.”

That is especially evident when looking

at how the cooperative has supported growers

in making the transition. Today, 90

percent of Champagne Palmer’s vineyards

are sustainability certified. For Vervier and

Demouy, it is the best way to future-proof

the founders’ vision of a Champagne of the

highest quality and a brand that keeps up

with the times.

<

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wine / ITALY

Castiglione Falletto, a

classic wine village in

southern Piemonte. Its

vineyards grow grapes for

the delicious Barolo.

Photo: Francesco Rava


WINDS

OF CHANGE

QUO VADO, VINO

ITALIANO?

Dominated by full-bodied reds until recently, Italy is producing

more and more quality white wines. Sparkling wine is a hit

throughout the country, and the new breed of reds emphasizes

freshness, elegance and finesse.

TEXT OTHMAR KIEM

dec–feb 2026

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wine / ITALY

Just a generation ago, Italy was

considered Europe’s great red wine

country. Chianti Classico, Barolo,

Brunello, Amarone – they shaped

the image of a nation whose wine

culture seemed deeply rooted in ruby red.

But the present day tells a different story: in

terms of total volume, red wine still has a

slight edge, but nowadays, more regions

produce whites. In fact, thirteen of Italy’s

twenty wine regions primarily produce

white wine, including some that are famous

for red varietals, like Piedmont and Sicily.

The leading red wine region remains

Tuscany, which is joined by the southern

regions of Abruzzo, Molise, Apulia,

Basilicata, and Calabria, as well as,

surprisingly, the Aosta Valley in the

northwest, which would actually be more

suited to cultivating white wine.

WHITE WINE FEVER

The newfound success of Italian

white wine is no coincidence.

Modern cellar technology, the

quest for freshness and

precision, and a growing

demand for lighter styles

have led to high worldwide

demand for wines

from Soave, Verdicchio,

and Fiano di Avellino.

On the Tuscan coast,

Vermentino is experiencing

rapid growth. The

north has also reinvented

itself: Alto Adige, with its

numerous grape varieties, and

Friuli’s refined interpretations of

Friulano and Sauvignon have long

set international standards.

BOLLICINE: A NEW NATIONAL

OBSESSION

Meanwhile, bollicine, as Italians affectionately

call sparkling wines due to their

bubbles, are taking the country by storm. It

was initially prosecco that paved the way

with its global triumph. In 2024, production

of Prosecco DOC rose to a record 660

million bottles. In comparison, the approximately

90 million bottles of Conegliano

Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG

and 30 million bottles of Asolo DOCG

seem almost insignificant. In the wake of

Sparkling wine – also known as Bollicine –

is on the rise all over Italy.

this success, sparkling wines are now being

produced almost everywhere: whether

Metodo Classico from Franciacorta,

Trentodoc, Oltrepò Pavese, or new,

surprisingly successful varieties from

previously unknown regions. Italy has

democratized sparkling wine – light,

accessible, and for every occasion.

Several Italian regions now

produce excellent chardonnays,

like Vie di Romans in Friuli.

RED DAWN

The winds of change are also blowing

through the realm of red wines. The era

of heavy, hyper-concentrated reds is over,

with vintners generally moving towards

juicy, drinkable wines, and top vintages no

longer have to be a deep, dark hue to

qualify. The success of red wines from

Mount Aetna is well-deserved: Nerello

Mascalese wines from airy, high altitudes

are delicate, with captivating acidity and a

mineral touch; a red that combines

lightness with character.

Nebbiolo is enjoying renewed popularity in

its lighter, more transparent form. Alpine

Nebbiolo from Valtellina shows pronounced

acidity, salinity, and firm tannins. The

same applies to wines from northern

Piedmont, from Ghemme and Gattinara. In

the Langhe, Nebbiolo d‘Alba and Langhe

Nebbiolo are more beloved than ever –

they are now more affordable and accessible

earlier, yet still bear the DNA of the

great vineyards.

Photos: Yana Iskayeva/Getty Images, Vie di Romans, Udo Bernhart, Tenuta di Carleone (2),


ITALY IS GRADUALLY SHIFTING TOWARDS

WHITE- AND SPARKLING WINES.

THEIR REDS, HOWEVER, REMAIN WORLD-CLASS.

Sean O’Callaghan and Karl Egger

of Tenuta di Carleone.

The barrel cellar of Cantina Terlano,

which is well-known for its long-lived

white wines.

Even Tuscany, long synonymous

with powerful

Sangiovese or Cabernets, is

discovering its “lighter” side. Sean

O’Callaghan of Tenuta di Carleone

in Radda, Chianti, has proven with projects

like “Il Guercio” how much freshness

and juiciness the Sangiovese grape has to

offer when fermented whole and aged in

concrete vats. He has many imitators: other

young producers are following the example

of classics such as Montevertine’s Pergole

Torte, which has always focused on refinement

over body.

SHIFTING TASTES

All these developments show that Italian

wine production has undergone a major

transformation in recent years. From the

white wine boom to the sparkling wine

hype and the return to finer, more delicate

reds, the new direction is clear. The country

is hitting all the right notes: from lively to

complex, from elegant to charming.

<

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wine / ITALY

Frescobaldi

created the best

rosé of the year.

Pictured: Lamberto

Frescobaldi.

THE BEST

ROSÉ WINES 2026

95

AUREA GRAN ROSÉ TOSCANA

ROSATO IGT 2023

Marchesi Frescobaldi, Tuscany

94

93

93

93

93

FIVE ROSES ANNIVERSARIO

SALENTO ROSATO IGT 2024

Leone de Castris, Apulia

PIETRADOLCE ETNA ROSATO DOC

2024

Pietradolce, Sicily

PUNGIROSA BOMBINO NERO

CASTEL DEL MONTE DOC 2024

Rivera, Apulia

VILLA GEMMA TERRE DI CHIETI

CERASUOLO D’ABRUZZO SUPERIO-

RE DOC 2024 Masciarelli, Abruzzo

Y BY 11 MINUTES ROSÉ

TREVENEZIE IGT 2022

Pasqua Wines, Veneto

Right by Mount Aetna,

Pietradolce produces

amazing reds and whites, as

well as impressive rosés.

Photos: Alfio Garozzo, Frescobaldi, Francesco Rava, Clay McLachlan


The latest vintage of fatherand-son

team of Alfredo and

Luca Roagna shows that

their Crichet Pajè is

still one of Italy‘s top

wines.

THE BEST RED WINES 2026

NORTHERN ITALY

100

100

100

99

99

99

99

BARBARESCO DOCG CRICHET

PAJÈ 2016

Roagna, Piedmont

BAROLO DOCG ARIONE 2021

Conterno Giacomo, Piedmont

BAROLO DOCG BUSSIA 2021

Giuseppe Rinaldi, Piedmont

BAROLO DOCG BRICCO BOSCHIS

2021

Cavallotto, Piedmont

BAROLO DOCG CANNUBI 2021

Elio Altare, Piedmont

BAROLO DOCG CERRETTA 2021


BAROLO DOCG FRANCIA 2021


98

98

98

98

98

98

98

BAROLO DOCG 2021

Bartolo Mascarello, Piedmont

BAROLO DOCG

AEROPLANSERVAJ 2021

Domenico Clerico, Piedmont

BAROLO DOCG ALESTE 2021

Luciano Sandrone, Piedmont

BAROLO DOCG BRUNATE 2021


BAROLO DOCG CANNUBI 2021

Azienda Agricola E. Pira E Figli

Piedmont

BAROLO DOCG MARGHERIA 2021

Azelia, Piedmont

BAROLO DOCG UNOPERUNO 2021

Elio Altare, Piedmont

98

98

98

98

98

CAMP GROS BARBARESCO

RISERVA DOCG MARTINENGA 2020

Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di

Grésy, Piedmont

COLONNELLO BAROLO DOCG

BUSSIA 2021

Poderi Aldo Conterno, Piedmont

LA MATTONARA AMARONE DELLA

VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO RISERVA

DOCG 2011

Zýmē di Celestino Gaspari, Veneto

LA POJA CORVINA VERONESE

VERONA IGT 2019

Allegrini, Veneto

PÒNKLER PINOT NERO SÜDTIROL

DOC 2019

Franz Haas Winery, Bolzano

99

99

99

99

BAROLO DOCG MONVIGLIERO 2021

Comm. G.B. Burlotto, Piedmont

BAROLO DOCG ORNATO 2021

Pio Cesare, Piedmont

ROMIRASCO BAROLO DOCG BUSSIA

2021 Poderi Aldo Conterno, Piedmont

SIBI ET PAUCIS BAROLO DOCG LE

VIGNE 2015

Luciano Sandrone, Piedmont

98

98

98

BAROLO RISERVA DOCG VIGNA

RIONDA 2019

Massolino Vigna Rionda, Piedmont

BAROLO RISERVA DOCG VIGNOLO

2019

Cavallotto, Piedmont

BERTANI – AMARONE DELLA

VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO DOCG

2015

Angelini Wines & Estates, Veneto

98

98

98

TRE TINE BAROLO DOCG 2021


VECCHIE VITI BARBARESCO DOCG

PAJÈ 2019

Roagna, Piedmont

VECCHIE VITI BAROLO DOCG

PIRA 2019

Roagna, Piedmont

dec–feb 2026

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wine / ITALY

Schulthaus castle in Eppan, Bolzano.

The surrounding vineyards produce

the well-known Pinot Blanc of the St.

Michael-Eppan Winery.

THE BEST WHITE WINES 2026

99

RARITY WEISSBURGUNDER

SÜDTIROL TERLANER DOC 2012

Cantina Terlano, Bolzano

97

CORTESAR FRIULI ISONZO DOC 2018

Vie di Romans

Friuli-Venezia Giulia

97

VIGNA PIRCHSCHRAIT

GEWÜRZTRAMINER SÜDTIROL DOC

2009 J. Hofstätter, Bolzano

98

CURIE FRIULI ISONZO DOC 2018

Vie di Romans

Friuli-Venezia Giulia

GRAN LAFÓA SAUVIGNON RISERVA

97 SÜDTIROL DOC 2022

96

Schreckbichl – Colterenzio, Bolzano

CURLAN CHARDONNAY RISERVA

SÜDTIROL DOC 2021

Cantina Girlan, Bolzano

98

PRIMO I GRANDE CUVÉE SÜDTIROL

TERLANO DOC 2022

Cantina Terlano, Bolzano

KREUZWEG FAMILY RESERVE CHAR-

97 DONNAY RISERVA SÜDTIROL DOC 96

2021 Castelfeder, Bolzano

ORNELLAIA BOLGHERI BIANCO

DOC 2022

Ornellaia, Tuscany

98

97

THE WINE COLLECTION SAUVIGNON

SÜDTIROL DOC 2021

St. Michael-Eppan Winery, Südtirol

APPIUS WEISS SÜDTIROL DOC 2020

Kellerei St. Michael-Eppan

Bolzano

NAMA CHARDONNAY SÜDTIROL

97 DOC 2021

96

Nals Margreid, Bolzano

TROY CHARDONNAY RISERVA

97 SÜDTIROL DOC 2021

96

Cantina Tramin, Bolzano

PITRAIA VERMENTINO DI GALLURA

SUPERIORE DOCG 2021

Tenute Gregu, Sardinia

TAL 1930 SÜDTIROL DOC 2021

Cantina Produttori Bolzano

Bolzano

Photo: Klaus Peterlin,


Casanova di Neri – with

Gianlorenzo, Giovanni und

Giacomo Neri pictured in the

circle– took the top spot once

again with its Cerretalto.

THE BEST RED WINES 2026

CENTRAL- AND SOUTHERN ITALY

Foto: Casanova di Neri (2)

100

100

100

100

99

99

99

99

99

CERRETALTO BRUNELLO DI

MONTALCINO DOCG 2019

Casanova di Neri, Tuscany

FILO DI SETA BRUNELLO DI

MONTALCINO RISERVA DOCG 2019

Castello Romitorio, Tuscany

IPSUS CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN

SELEZIONE DOCG 2021

Il Caggio, Tuscany

SANTA CATERINA D’ORO

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO

RISERVA DOCG 2019

Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona, Tuscany

ASIRAM TOSCANA IGT 2019

Tenuta La Massa, Tuscany

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO DOCG

2019

Biondi-Santi Tenuta Greppo, Tuscany


2020

Poggio di Sotto, Tuscany

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO

RISERVA DOCG 2019

Poggio di Sotto, Tuscany

GALATRONA VALDARNO DI SOPRA

DOC 2023

Petrolo, Tuscany

99

98

I SODI DI SAN NICCOLÒ TOSCANA

IGT 2021

Castellare di Castellina, Tuscany


2020 Giodo, Tuscany

DEDICATO A WALTER BOLGHERI

98 SUPERIORE DOC 2021

98

Poggio al Tesoro, Tuscany


98 SELEZIONE DOCG 2015

98

Il Caggio, Tuscany


98 SELEZIONE DOCG 2016

98

Il Caggio, Tuscany

98

98

98

98

98


SELEZIONE DOCG 2019

Il Caggio, Tuscany

KURNI MARCHE ROSSO IGT 2023

Oasi degli Angeli, Marche

LE PUPILLE SYRAH TOSCANA IGT

2021 Fattoria Le Pupille, Tuscany

MADONNA DELLE GRAZIE BRUNEL-

LO DI MONTALCINO DOCG 2020

Il Marroneto, Tuscany

MASSETO TOSCANA IGT 2022

Masseto, Tuscany

98

98

98

98

98

98

ORENO TOSCANA IGT 2023

Tenuta Sette Ponti, Tuscany

ORNELLAIA BOLGHERI ROSSO

SUPERIORE DOC 2022

Ornellaia, Tuscany

REDIGAFFI MERLOT TOSCANA IGT

2023

Tua Rita, Tuscany

SETTE TOSCANA IGT 2022

Tenuta Sette Ponti

Tuscany

SOLAIA TOSCANA IGT 2022

Marchesi Antinori

Tuscany

TENUTA DI TRINORO TOSCANA

ROSSO IGT 2022

Tenuta di Trinoro, Tuscany

VECCHIE VIGNE BRUNELLO DI

MONTALCINO DOCG 2020

Siro Pagenti, Tuscany

VIGNA DEL SUOLO BRUNELLO

DI MONTALCINO DOCG 2020

Argiano, Tuscany

VIGNETO LA CASUCCIA CHIANTI

CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE DOCG

2022

Castello di Ama, Tuscany

dec–feb 2026

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The vineyards of Ca’ del Bosco

in Franciacorta, with Lake Iseo in

the background.

THE BEST SPARKLING WINES 2026

100

98

97

GIULIO FERRARI RISERVA DEL

FONDATORE TRENTO DOC 2016

EXTRA BRUT Ferrari Trento, Trentino

VINTAGE COLLECTION FRANCIA-

CORTA DOCG 2016 DOSAGE ZÉRO

NOIR Ca’ del Bosco, Lombardy

CUVÉE ANNAMARIA CLEMENTI

FRANCIACORTA RISERVA DOCG

2016 EXTRA BRUT

Ca’ del Bosco, Lombardy

96

96

96

CUVÉE ANNAMARIA CLEMENTI

FRANCIACORTA ROSÉ RISERVA

DOCG 2016 EXTRA BRUT


EMOZIONE 40 ANNI FRANCIACORTA

RISERVA DOCG 2008 MILLESIMATO

BRUT Villa Franciacorta, Lombardy

GIULIO FERRARI ROSÉ RISERVA

TRENTO DOC 2016 EXTRA BRUT

Ferrari Trento, Trentino

97

96

96

EBB FRANCIACORTA DOCG 2019

EXTRA BRUT Mosnel, Lombardy

CABOCHON DOPPIOZERO FRAN-

CIACORTA DOCG 2018 BRUT

NATURE Monte Rossa, Lombardy

CABOCHON FUORISERIE N. 025

FRANCIACORTA DOCG BRUT

Monte Rossa, Lombardy

96

96

RISERVA FRANCO ZILIANI

FRANCIACORTA DOCG 2011

EXTRA BRUT

Berlucchi Franciacorta, Lombardy

VINTAGE COLLECTION

FRANCIACORTA DOCG 2020

EXTRA BRUT


THE BEST SWEET

WINES 2026

The Cantina Tramin – with Cellar

Master Willi Stürz pictured in

the circle – makes amazing

Gewürztraminer, among others.

97

96

96

96

95

95

95

EPOKALE SPÄTLESE GEWÜRZ-

TRAMINER SÜDTIROL DOC 2017

Cantina Tramin, Bolzano

BEN RYÉ PASSITO DI PANTELLERIA

DOC 2023

Donnafugata, Sicily

ROSENMUSKATELLER MITTERBERG

IGT 2023

Ansitz Waldgries, Bolzano

VIN SANTO DI MONTEPULCIANO

DOC 1993

Montemercurio, Tuscany

SAN GIOVANNI MOSCATO PASSITO

PIEMONTE DOC 2012

Tenuta Olim Bauda, Piedmont

TERMINUM GEWÜRZTRAMINER

VENDEMMIA TARDIVA SÜDTIROL

DOC 2023

Kellerei Tramin, Bolzano

VIN SANTO DEL CHIANTI

CLASSICO DOC 2014

Rocca di Montegrossi, Tuscany

Photos: aquilamattia.it, Florian Andergassen, Alexa Rainer


TENUTA DI CARLEONE

THE NEW DRINK ABILITY

An interview with Sean O’Callaghan, oenologist and production manager

at Tenuta di Carleone in Radda in Chianti, Italy. Founded and run

by Austrian entrepreneur Karl Egger and his family, their exceptional

Chianti Classico wines are well known among connoisseurs.

ADVERTORIAL Pictures: Benedetta Falugi

FALSTAFF Mr. O’Callaghan, there’s

been a lot of talk lately about the

new lightness of wine, as well as

making wines more accessible

and drinkable. Tenuta di Carleone

is one of the pioneers of

this style. What’s it all about?

SEAN O’CALLAGHAN For us,

it’s all about enjoyment. In

my opinion, the best wine is

always the one where you

don‘t even notice that the bottle

is empty. But I wouldn‘t call

it lightness; it’s not just about

that. The wine still has to have

character and complexity. The term

“new drinkability” is more accurate.

One of the main problems is alcohol content,

as wines are getting stronger. But

young people don‘t want wines with 15 or

16 percent alcohol; they prefer wines with

12–13 percent. We have climate change to

thank for the higher sugar content and,

consequently, higher alcohol levels. So we

need to rethink and respond.

What exactly do you do in the vineyard?

When I worked at Riecine in the 1990s, we

limited the yield to four per vine and delayed

the harvest until the end of October.

Back then, however, Septembers were cool,

whereas today we have hot Septembers and

even at our higher altitudes, grapes ripen

much sooner. To prevent the sugar concentration

in individual grapes from becoming

too high, we are leaving more on the vine

again. As a result, none of our wines of the

2025 vintage have more than 13.5% alcohol.

I’m very happy about that!

Founded in 2021 by entrepreneur

Karl Egger (left), Sean O’Callaghan (right)

has left his mark on Tenuta di Carleone with

his own Sangiovese style.

Does that mean the old paradigm from the

1980s and 1990s that top wines can only

be made with the lowest yields no longer

applies?

Naturally, I can still aim for high concentration

and create a wine with a dark color

and high alcohol content. But the question

remains: Do I want that? We don’t. The

result is wines that may impress at first, but

don’t follow through. We want to produce

elegant wines that are enjoyable to the last

drop.

Do you use special techniques in

the cellar?

Yes, I love working with whole

grapes during fermentation. I

believe that gives the wines

more complexity. For our

top wine, the UNO, I use up

to 30 percent whole grapes.

It’s vital that the wine

spends enough time as must.

You just mentioned the UNO.

You also produce the Guercio,

as a kind of antithesis.

Yes, UNO is our great classic

Sangiovese. Guercio is my personal

playground. I try all sorts of experiments

there, varying the number of whole

grapes, or ageing only in concrete

tanks. There is no set procedure, it depends

on the vintage, the grapes, and my

inclinations. But our most important

wine is the Chianti Classico, which is our

flagship. I always say that it’s like Champagne,

where the base cuvée is the most

telling: this is where you recognize the

house style, which you may or may not

like.

Is Tenuta di Carleone planning to launch a

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione in 2026?

Yes, but that’s a story for another time.

INFO

More Information at

tenutadicarleone.com


wine / RIESLING

A

WONDROUS

VINE

Originating from wild vines, Riesling comes in many styles: fruity,

spicy, fresh and tart, or with a sweetness that melts in the mouth.

Regardless, it requires one fundamental element: an exposure

with exceptional characteristics.

TESTO PETER MOSER, ULRICH SAUTTER

Riesling loves water: it’s no

coincidence that its origins are

linked to the Rhine, Main, Nahe,

Moselle, and Danube rivers.

Photo: Andreas Durst


dec–feb 2026

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wine / RIESLING

A legendary Riesling from

the Kellerberg vineyard

in the Wachau

region: The F. X.

Pichler winery in

Dürnstein, Austria.

The tip of the shoot is yellowgreen

and covered with felt-like

white and reddish hairs. The

leaves are medium in size, with

a pitted surface and a fuzzy

underside. The grapes are either small, with

well-formed, dense clusters, or composed of

small, round, green-yellow grapes that are

sometimes dotted with black. The ampelographers

of the well-known Ulm Color

Atlas describe the characteristics of Riesling

as follows, emphasizing that the flavor of

the grapes is “juicy, fruity, and tart,” and

“when fully ripe, spicy and sweet.” For

Jancis Robinson, the Grande Dame of

international wine criticism, Riesling is “a

star,” and her colleague Hugh Johnson

considers it “the greatest and most versatile

white grape variety in the world.”

DEGREES OF MATURITY

The versatility Johnson refers to has two

aspects. Firstly, Riesling is the only grape

that changes its aroma profile like a chameleon,

depending on its degree of ripeness.

The transition goes from main harvest to

IN THE WORDS OF

HUGH JOHNSON,

RIESLING IS “THE

GREATEST AND

MOST VERSATILE

WHITE GRAPE

VARIETY IN THE

WORLD.”

late harvest and finally, the harvest of shriveled

grapes affected by noble rot, which

alters the fruit as well as the type and concentration

of aromatic monoterpenes present

in Riesling must – essential oils similar

to those found in herbs and citrus peel.

The German classification system is a

logical consequence of this versatility, indicating

the various intermediate steps on the

aromatic scale: from Kabinett to Spätlese

(late harvest), from Auslese (select harvest)

to Trockenbeerenauslese (select dried grape

harvest). As if nature intended it, each of

these categories has its own specific balance

between acidity, extract, and sweetness. The

most experienced producers, particularly in

the Moselle, take these distinctions to the

extreme, producing, for instance, not just

select harvests but also Goldkapsel (gold

capsule): a wine whose botrytis content is

selected with greater rigor, resulting in a finer

and more subtle wine – without moving

to the next level on the scale, which would

be Beerenauslee (select grape harvest) as

that would require even more oiliness and

sweetness.

Photos: Weingut F.X. Pichler (3), Julius Hirtzberger, Egon Müller, Lachlan Blair/LOXPIX


The second aspect of Riesling‘s versatility

is terroir. On limestone soils such as

in Alsace, Riesling develops a completely

different structure than on slate, which is

common in the Moselle, Mittelrhein, Nahe,

or Rheingau regions. Granite soil, found

in Wachau and Ortenau in Baden, the variegated

sandstone of the Palatinate, and

volcanic terroir also contribute to unique

and distinctive flavor profiles.

GERMANY

Historical records show that Riesling has

been cultivated along the Rhine and Moselle

rivers since at least the 15th century.

It is likely that the variety was first grown

along the Rhine; genetically, it is a natural

cross between white Heunisch and seeds

from Traminer and wild grapes. The wild

grapevine (vitis sylvestris), an ancestor of

Riesling, was still widespread in the floodplains

of the Rhine in the 19th century.

As a general rule for German Rieslings,

the further south you go, the higher the

percentage of dry wines. The Moselle and

its two tributaries, the Saar and Ruwer,

produce fruity, sweet

Rieslings with a unique

character. Curiously, these

wines have only a limited appeal

in their homeland; Germans mostly prefer

dry Moselle Riesling, and thanks to global

warming, this type of wine is becoming

increasingly popular. The Mittelrhein

and Nahe regions also produce Riesling

varieties characterized by fruity and dry

flavors on slate soils similar to those of

the Moselle. In the Rheingau, however, dry

Riesling is significantly more prominent

than sweet varieties. This tendency is even

more pronounced in Rheinhessen and the

Palatinate, where dry wine production

far outweighs its sweet cousin. In Baden-

Württemberg, fruity or even sweet Rieslings

are the exception, not the rule.

Riesling cultivation in Germany takes

place almost exclusively on steep slopes

or terraced vineyards. The view from

the Bremmer Calmont vineyard on the

Moselle, considered the steepest in Europe,

are truly spectacular. Only Rhein hessen

and the Palatinate have the favorable

<

Rieslings from the

Hirtzberger winery in Spitz,

Wachau, are famed for their

incredible aging potential.

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

123

wine / RIESLING

The Dönnhoff winery

is one of the standouts

in the Nahe Valley

(pictured: The small

tower overlooking the

Schlossböckelheim

Felsenberg vineyard).

Frozen grapes being pressed at

the Dönnhoff winery.

<

conditions on slightly sloping terrain

needed. Here, soil defines the suitability for

an extraordinary Riesling, such as the limestone

in the Morstein vineyard in Rheinhessen,

or the basalt under the Forster

Pechstein in the Palatinate.

The Mittelhaardt, around Forst and

Deidesheim, is where German Riesling can

take on characteristics akin to Pinot. A

good example is the Kirchenstück vineyard

in Forst, which was already marked on

Bavaria’s tax revenue map of 1828 as the

best in the Palatinate and therefore paid the

maximum rate.

Thanks to global warming, steep slopes

remain in high demand despite rising

temperatures, as they offer winegrowers

maximum flexibility in choosing when to

harvest. Furthermore, the maximum altitude

for cultivation is rising. Eva Clüsserath

of the Ansgar Clüsserath winery in Mosel,

known for her crisp and spicy Kabinett, has

focused her efforts in recent years on plots

at the top of the Trittenheimer Apotheke.

Even cool side valleys that were left uncultivated

for decades are becoming attractive

again. One example is the Sorentberg winery

near Reil in Mosel, which drew on exper-

tise from the Italian Alps to reactivate old

vineyards; Ivan Giovanett of the Castelfeder

winery collaborated with his former classmate

Tobias Treis from Reil to restore the

site with its red slate soil. In addition, Roman

Niewodniczanski of the Van Volxem

winery in the Saar replanted ten hectares

in one fell swoop on the cool slopes of the

Ockfener Geisberg back in 2016. By 2023,

he was able to harvest Großes Gewächs

there for the first time, justifying every cent

of his colossal investment.

ALSACE

Alsace – and the same goes for neighboring

Baden on the right bank of the Rhine – has

its very own Riesling culture, with extremely

dense and powerful wines. When young,

they are characterized by an imposing minerality,

which often leads to misunderstandings.

Criticizing them for lacking the light

elegance of the Mosel or the robustness

of the Rheingau fails to take their stylistic

roots into account, which are firmly rooted

in the concept of terroir. Alsatian Riesling is

not defined so much by the grape variety as

it is by the concept of cru: examples include

Clos Sainte Hune (Trimbach), Kastelberg

Photos: Peter Bänder, Stefan Haehnel, Andreas Durst, Heroes of Riesling, Sandra Fehr (3), Bender

124 falstaff dec-feb 2026

98

POINTS

2021 Ried

Nussberg

Sauvignon Blanc,

Große STK Ried:

Awarded 98

Falstaff Points,

ranking this single

vineyard wine

among the world’s

finest Sauvignon

Blancs.

SÜDSTEIERMARK

COOL CLIMATE. HANDCRAFTED

WINES. UNIQUE TASTE.

AUSTRIA / STYRIA: WEINGUT GROSS – AN ORIGIN FOR HIGH QUALITY, COOL CLIMATE SAUVIGNON BLANC.

In the heart of Ried Nussberg you’ll find the Weingut Gross, where time and origin shapes the wine. Vintners Johannes and Martina work

their vineyards organically and share a deep connection with nature. Their white wines – above all Sauvignon Blanc – are the result of precise

craftsmanship, a sensitive approach, and, last but not least, sufficient time to develop in the cellar. Through this philosophy Weingut

Gross has found balance in their wines.

WEINGUT GROSS RATSCH 26; A-8461 EHRENHAUSEN A.D. WEINSTRASSE WWW.GROSS.AT AUSTRIA/ STYRIA

wine / RIESLING

(Kreydenweiss), and Schlossberg (Weinbach).

These wines age exceptionally well;

they need ten or twenty years to mature, or

you risk missing out on their full charm.

AUSTRIA

Until the 1840s, Riesling was only sporadically

cultivated in Austria, as the geological

and climatic conditions were long considered

unsuitable. It was Austrian Archduke

Johann who started the trend by cultivating

Riesling at his model winery in Pickern, near

Maribor in present-day Slovenia; his wines

were so successful that he quickly attracted

imitators. He got started with noble cuttings

from Johannisberg Castle in the Rheingau,

which was owned by the House of

Habsburg- Lorraine since 1815 and leased to

Chancellor Klemens von Metternich. Archduke

Johann named his new Riesling vineyard

in Pickern after its German origin and

his own name, calling it “Johannisberger”.

In 1872, Baron von Babo, an oenologist

and director of the viticulture school in

RIESLING WAS

POPULARIZED IN

AUSTRIA BY

ARCHDUKE

JOHANN.

Klosterneuburg, near Vienna, reported that

Riesling “was spreading incredibly rapidly

in Austria- Hungary. It has become apparent

that, with appropriate treatment, it is possible

to produce a wine with a bouquet as rich

as that of the Rheingau.”

The areas cultivating Riesling in Austria

steadily expanded between 1999 to 2020,

and currently stand at 2,025 hectares,

making up 4.6% of the country‘s total

vineyards. This development was encouraged

in the wake of Austria‘s “wine scandal”

of 1985, where it was discovered that

numerous vintners had been adulterated

their product with diethylene glycol as

a sweetening agent; as a result, Austrian

oenophiles and producers switched to completely

dry white wines. The Wachau region

became a pioneer with its natural wines,

classified since the 1980s with the categories

Steinfeder, Federspiel, and Smaragd.

In particular, the 1990 Riesling Smaragds

made waves. Wines grown on crystalline

rock soils such as Singerriedel, Achlei-

<

The Wegeler vineyards are located in Mosel

and Rheingau. Pictured: their slate-roofed

manor in Bernkastel.

Photos: Ralph Darabos, Büro Medienagenten, Maxim Grünhaus


RABL WINERY

Jonas Rabl-Sander, his wife,

Johanna, and her brother

Tobias are the new generation

at the Rabl Winery. (pictured

from left to right).

A NEW GENER ATION

AT RABL WINERY

Rudi Rabl’s wines won numerous awards, achieving worldwide renown for

his winery in Langenlois, Austria. Now, his children have taken over.

ADVERTORIAL pictures provided.

The list of accolades that Rudi Rabl

has received for his wines and

achievements is long: Both at

home and abroad, he is synonymous

with excellent white wines. The highlight

was undoubtedly being named White

Wine Maker of the Year both in 2019

and 2021 at the renowned IWSC - International

Wine & Spirit Competition in

London. After running his historic

winery, which dates back to the 18th

century, since 1986, he is now gradually

handing over the reins to his two children,

Johanna and Tobias, and Johanna‘s

husband, Jonas. This new generation is

a breath of fresh air: They had an

excellent teacher in Rudi Rabl, and

are eargerly continuing the family

winemaking tradition.

Their roles are clear. Johanna, a

graduate of the Vienna’s BOKU

University of Life Sciences, handles

many small details like logistics,

sales, and marketing, which often go

unnoticed from afar. She has given the new

website and online shop a modern look,

and also contributes her expertise as a food

scientist. Her brother Tobias is responsible

for the more practical and therefore more

visible part of the winery. As a graduate

of the renowned viticulture school in

Klosterneuburg, Austria, his place is in

the cellar and vineyard. Together with

his father, he ensures the excellent quality

of their wines. Jonas takes care of the

estate’s verjus. A trained chef and former

chef de partie at Vienna’s awardwinning

three-star restaurant Steirereck,

he knows all about maintaining

harmony between the kitchen and

the cellar. Together, they form a

dynamic trio that brings new

momentum and opens up new perspectives

from time to time.

Besides their exceptional range

of mainly Grüner Veltliner and

Riesling, white wines which reflect their

origin in the beautiful Kamptal region, and

four cool-climate red wines, the Rabls have

now rediscovered sparkling wine. Their

Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs, both

from 2021, are represented in the Salon,

with the Blanc de Blancs even voted

second-best sparkling wine in the Austrian

Reserve category. This fall, their sparkling

wine range will be expanded to include a

Brut Rosé, which is eagerly awaited.

Rudi Rabl may consider himself fortunate:

Thanks to his children and son-in-law,

the future of the winery is assured, and

people around the world can continue to

enjoy Rabl wines.

INFO

Rabl Winery

Weraingraben 10, 3550 Langenlois, Austria

weingut-rabl.at

falstaff 127

wine / RIESLING

Owned by the von Schubert family since 1882,

Maximin Grünhaus is a legendary winery on

the Ruwer, a tributary of the Moselle.

<

ten, Kellerberg, and Schütt have also

received international recognition, with

names like Hirtzberger, Prager, F.X. Pichler,

and Knoll featuring prominently on wine

lists. Today, the picturesque Danube valley

between Melk and Krems is considered the

major center for Austrian Riesling production,

while the area dedicated to this variety

in the Wachau, at around 237 hectares,

remains relatively small.

Remarkable Rieslings are also

produced on the slopes of the

Danube‘s tributaries. The

Kamptal cultivates the

variety on 364 hectares;

among the most famous

vineyards are Heiligenstein

and Gaisberg, where

renowned producers such

as Willi Bründlmayer,

Johannes Hirsch, Schloßweingut

Gobelsburg, and

Alwin Jurtschitsch produce

high-quality Rieslings. In the

Krems tal valley, which is right next to

the crystalline rock soils of the Wachau,

Steiner Pfaffenberg, Ried Kögl, and Senftenberger

Ehrenfels are considered the

premier producers; among the recognized

Riesling experts are the Malat, Mantlerhof,

Salomon-Undhof, Stadt Krems, Nigl, and

Proidl wineries. Even

the small Traisental

valley on the right bank

of the Danube produces intriguing

Rieslings, with Markus Huber, Hans

Schöller, and Ludwig Neumeister among

the best. Here, in the large Weinviertel

(lit. “wine district”) growing region, the

crystalline rock soils favor the production

of wines of astounding quality. In Röschitz,

you'll find producers like Gschweicher,

Stift, and Respizhof-Kölbl, with Ebner-

Ebenauer and Weinrieder further afield

near Poysdorf.

In Styria, the exclusive slate soils of

Sausal allow for the production of top

Rieslings, continuing the tradition of Archduke

Johann. Gerhard Wohlmuth in Fresing-

Kitzeck has managed to match the country’s

very best, even in blind tastings. <

Nicknamed “HO,” Hans Oliver Spanier has

led his family winery, Battenfeld-Spanier,

and that of his wife Carolin (Kühling-Gillot)

to the top by utilizing biodynamic methods.

Photos: Ralph Darabos, Büro Medienagenten, Maxim Grünhaus


PACHMAIR 1453 APART RESORT

ALPINE LUXURY IN THE

HEART OF THE ZILLERTAL

Set amidst the wintery panorama of the Zillertal, the PACHMAIR 1453 apart

resort redefines contemporary alpine luxury. Clear architecture, premium

natural materials and a sense of freedom come together to create a retreat

for those seeking winter indulgence at the highest level.

ADVERTORIAL Pictures: (c) Jukka Pehkonen

At the core of the resort lies its

wellness world: AQUAlpin offers

a spacious 17m panoramic infinitypool,

cosy loungers and

soothing alpine warmth after active days in

the snow. The adults-only SPAlpin elevates

the experience with three themed saunas, a

steam bath and quiet zones with 360° panoramic

views – a haven for deep relaxation

and luxurious tranquillity.

Culinary delights await in ANNA’s

STUBN, where modern interpretations of

Tyrolean cuisine meet regional ingredients

and creative compositions that embrace contemporary

food trends in an elegant way.

The rooms and apartments feature natural

materials, generous layouts and a modernalpine

design that blends warmth, clarity

and understated elegance.

With top ski areas such as Hochzillertal,

Mayrhofen and the Hintertux Glacier just

minutes away, winter adventures begin right

outside the door.

PACHMAIR 1453 apart resort: Where

wellness, winter and alpine elegance seamlessly

intertwine.

INFO

Pachmair 1453

pachmair.com


wine / BEST OF RIESLING

BEST OF

RIESLING

100

99

99

2023 ZELL KREUZBERG

RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS,

Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier,

Hohen-Sülzen (Rheinhessen,

Germany)

Strong and complex aroma, fresh

with white flowers as well as chamomile,

citrus, oranges, toasted sesame,

mint, menthol, candied pineapple.

Tight and athletic on the palate, vigorous

with very high tension, silky but

robust phenols, subtle acidity with

traction, calcareous freshness and a

long, salty finish of great elegance.

battenfeld-spanier.de, €230

RIESLING WACHAU DAC RIED

KELLERBERG 2023

Weingut F. X. Pichler, Dürnstein

(Wachau, Austria)

Light green-yellow, with silver

reflections. Delicately flavored with

orange peel, a hint of tangerine,

accompanied by fine yellow tropical

fruit, delicate with notes of peach.

Complex, juicy, elegant, nuances of

white fruit, a refined acidic structure,

lingers in the mouth for minutes,

delicate style, very seductive.

fx-pichler.at, €85


SINGERRIEDEL SMARAGD 2023

Weingut Hirtzberger, Spitz

(Wachau, Austria)

Green-yellow, with silver reflections.

Delicate hints of peach, a hint of

herbs, notes of yellow apple, a

touch of minerality, still a bit timid.

Compact, fine, elegant, with delicate

fruit, refined acidity, notes of pineapple,

minerality and a very persistent,

very convincing style with enormous

aging potential.

hirtzberger.com, ca. €120

100

99

98

2023 BERNKASTEL DOCTOR

RIESLING TROCKENBEEREN-

AUSLESE, Weingüter Wegeler –

Gutshaus Mosel, Bernkastel

(Germany)

Golden yellow, tending towards

amber. Intense aroma characterized

by spices and slate, with notes of

candied orange and fine Botrytis. On

the palate, it has a lively and fresh

acidity, a penetrating extract, delicate

phenolics, lemon cake, consistent

freshness, full of tension, extremely

dense and a long, grandiose finish.

wegeler.com, €290

RIESLING WACHAU DAC WACHS-

TUM BODENSTEIN SMARAGD

2023, Weingut Prager, Weißenkirchen

(Wachau, Austria)

Green-yellow, with silver reflections.

Delicate peach fruit, orange peel, a

touch of floral honey, with a mineral

base. Full-bodied, juicy, with fine

yellow tropical fruit, structured and

lively, great finesse and balance,

with a salty finish that shows length

and potential, and great promise for

the future.

weingutprager.at, €47


STEINERTAL SMARAGD 2023

Weingut Alzinger, Unterloiben

(Wachau, Austria)

Light green-yellow with silver

reflections. Delicate fruit aromas, a

hint of peach, fresh minerality, a

touch of orange peel, floral nuances.

Juicy, elegant, with pleasant white

fruit, finely structured, fresh and

delicate style, already very drinkable,

clear as a mountain stream, with

definite potential for the future.

alzinger.at, €38

100

2023 KIEDRICH GRÄFENBERG

RIESLING TROCKENBEEREN-

AUSLESE, Weingut Robert Weil,

Kiedrich (Rheingau, Germany)

Aroma of dates and dried apricots,

accompanied by dried pears, but

also chamomile and smoked slate.

Concentrated and dense on the

palate, extremely rigorous, vibrant,

with a bright acidity, playfulness,

and concentration. Very clear, very

elegant, powerful, yet incredibly

subtle.

weingut-robert-weil.com, €390

99

2023 FORST KIRCHENSTÜCK

RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS,

Weingut von Winning, Deidesheim

(Palatinate, Germany)

Barrel sample: Grapefruit, lime,

a fresh breath comes out of the glass,

soon accompanied by an intense, smoky

minerality. The texture is impressive on

the palate; marked by a fine mineral extract,

which is elegantly integrated and

supported by refined acidity.

A wine of great fluidity, smooth

and exceptionally long.

von-winning.de, €90

98

2021 SCHLOSSBÖCKELHEIM

FELSENBERG FELSENTÜRM-

CHEN GG, Dönnhoff,

Oberhausen an der Nahe

(Germany)

A scent of dried lemon peel and

rock dust, grapefruit, barely open,

leaning more toward spice than

fruit. The palate unfolds with a lot

of drive: fine phenols, intense mineral

substance, firm acidity, and a

subtle layer of smoothness underneath

it all. 25 years of potential or

more.

doennhoff.com, €55

Photos: PFALZWEINFOTO | André Kunz,Stefan Feichtinger, provided


HOTEL PLANTIZ

ANSITZ PLANTIZ –

STYLE AND SUBSTANCE

No ostentatious luxury, no fleeting trends – the historic Ansitz Plantiz values

what really matters: time, quality, and a touch of class.

ADVERTORIAL Pictures: Karl Steinegger, provided

Perched high above Merano, Ansitz

Plantiz is a passion project that

grew over many years. A sense of

timelessness shapes every facet:

here, the good life is a ritual that slows

down time and creates depth.

Each of the 50 rooms and suites has its

own character – some have infinity pools,

private saunas, or direct access to the garden,

a living entity cultivated over generations.

The historic wine cellar is a treasure

trove of over 23,000 bottles collected over

decades. These go well with the menus crafted

from regional ingredients served in stylish

garden restaurant.

Ansitz Plantiz also maintains several classic

cars guest can use, including a 1967

Pagoda 230SL and a 1976 Alfa Romeo

2000 Berlina. Here, driving gives you pause

for reflection – a passion

that never fades. The wellness

area does the same. The

Golden SPA offers a marble saltwater

pool, heated outdoor pool, whirlpools,

saunas, and a roof terrace with

mountain views, complemented by mental

wellness coaches who promote genuine

inner peace.

The historic city center with its

atmospheric Christmas market is

just a 10-minute stroll away, and the

gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle are

equally close, where the LUMAGICA light

park shines during Advent with over 300

illuminated sculptures. A 5-minute drive,

and you’re at the Merano 2000 cable car

station – another 7 minutes and you’re

2,100 meters above sea level, in the heart

of the ski slopes. New Year’s Eve is truly

special. Each one has its own theme – this

year, it’s the musical »Grease«, expressed

with a culinary and musical celebration.

INFO

ansitz-plantiz.com


wine / THE RISE OF AUSTRIAN REDS

RHAPSODY

IN

RED

Our annual blind tasting a few weeks ago to determine Austria‘s best red wines once again

showcased the current state of the art. With well over a thousand entries, the many different

styles encouraged the author to draw on the world of music to sum up his impressions.

TEXT PETER MOSER

Photo: Shutterstock

132

falstaff

dec–feb 2026

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

133


Falstaff has been proudly

covering the Austrian red wine

scene for 46 years, honoring the

best with its annual Falstaff Red

Wine Awards: A celebration of

the variety and quality found in the

country’s vineyards. A wide range of

categories are discussed and awarded prizes

each year, from young wines to ten

different varietals to Reserve Trophies for

mature wines like cuvées or single-varietal

Blaufränkisch. Anyone awarded a coveted

Falstaff Winner at this tasting is sure to

attract the attention of the industry. Over

the course of this competition’s nearly

fifty-year history, it has been possible to

track new trends and impulses for both

quantity and quality: As in every sector,

there have been bandwagons that winemakers

have jumped on and gradual learning

processes among producers, critics, and,

ultimately, the most important players in

this game: consumers. And as the wine

world is constantly evolving, we can look

forward to a new chapter every year. One

thing is certain, however: the range of

interesting red wines from Austria has

never been greater than it is today.

Carnuntum’s Gerhard Markowitsch is known for

full-bodied, elegant red wines with complexity

and spice.

T

HANKS TO MANY

INNOVATIVE

WINEMAKERS, THE

WORLD OF AUSTRIAN

RED WINE IS MORE

DIVERSE TODAY THAN

EVER BEFORE.

SMALL BEGINNINGS

At the end of the 1970s, Austrian interest

in red wine began to grow on a modest

scale. A few ambitious pioneers, some of

whom even traveled as far as Bordeaux,

realized that for the best results, it was

advantageous not to press red grapes the

same way as utilized for white wines.

Working with indigenous varieties such as

Blauer Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, Blauburgunder,

and St. Laurent, by the 1980s, the

first brave souls ventured into using small,

new wooden barrels and biological acid

reduction. With Bordeaux as the template,

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot were also

approved as quality wine varieties toward

the end of the 1980s. Once the storm

clouds of the diethylene glycol scandal had

cleared in 1986, red wine gained momentum.

Indeed, Austria‘s first truly good red

came from that vintage: Ernst Triebaumer‘s

1986 Blaufränkisch Mariental from Rust

seemingly came from another wine planet.

Still, red wine accounted for only about ten

percent of Austria‘s vineyards at that time,

and Burgenland continued to produce

more white than red until 2003. From the

1990s onwards, vines were planted

Albert Gesellmann from Deutschkreutz relies

on maturation in wooden barrels both large and

small.

Grape selection is

meticulous and begins as

early as in the vineyard.

Photos: Feichtinger, Herbert Lehmann (3), Albert Gesellmann, Seidl+Seidl


Con con ea doluptaquam,

Blaufränkisch totatem porpores grapes grow et vel on

ipsunt slate aut soils dolo in Eisenberg que invent, in

temporeperum southern ea vellaborenes Burgenland.

inctota sperio cumque ipi

diligently from the southernmost Burgenland

to the Weinviertel (lit. “wine district”)

in northernmost Lower Austria. The

relatively inexperienced public, only

familiar with red wine thanks to occasional

vacations in Italy, took a surprising liking

to deep dark, concentrated creations that

were anything but lacking in tannins and

careful aging. It was a learning process for

both sides, with a focus on intensity,

maturation, fruit, and spice.

THE ROAD TO DAC

Thanks to two excellent vintages in 1999

and 2000, the cream slowly started to rise

to the top. Individual groups formed, and

wine-growing regions began to distinguish

themselves through a common style. In

1992, the small Carnuntum region brought

Blauer Zweigelt to the fore, and by 1989,

the Blaufränkischland association was

established in Central Burgenland to

promote that varietal. At the top of the

quality and price spectrum were barrique-aged

cuvées with imaginative names

such as “Mystique,” “Comondor,” and

“Perwolff”; the names of vineyards were

also popular, such as Hallebühl, Salzberg,

and Rosenberg. But the realization that the

right grape variety in the right location

produces a distinctive wine with terroir

notes also began to take hold. In 2005,

Central Burgenland became the first

wine-growing region to introduce a DAC

(Districtus Austria Controllatus) status for

AUSTRIA’S

DELICATELY SPICY

GRAPE VARIETY

BLAUFRÄNKISCH

CONTRIBUTES AN

INTERESTING ASPECT

TO THE WORLD OF RED

WINE.

red wine. This meant

that anyone who wanted

to label their wine with its region of origin

could only use the designated grape variety.

DAC is issued in three categories:

Gebietswein (from a specific area),

Ortswein (from a specific municipality),

and Riedwein (single vineyard, similar to

the French cru). Apart from Neusiedlersee

DAC, where Zweigelt is specified, Blaufränkisch

is the only variety permitted as

DAC in all other appellations in

The Esterhazy winery,

provides extensive

information on their terroir in

addition to tastings.

<

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

135


The powerful Cuvée Batonnage is made by four

winemakers as a joint effort. (from left: Markus

Altenburger, Erich Scheiblhofer, Christian

Tschida und Gerhard Kracher).

<

Burgenland, such as Eisenberg,

Mittelburgenland, Rosalia (which

also permits Zweigelt) and Leithaberg.

As a result, the variety has

experienced something of a boom.

In Lower Austria, reds are only

classed as Riedweine in two

appellations: Carnuntum permits

Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch; and the

Thermenregion produces Pinot Noir

and St. Laurent Riedwein, Zweigelt as

Ortswein, and Blauer Portugieser as a

Gebietswein. In Wagram, Zweigelt and

Pinot Noir are produced as Ortswein, and

St. Laurent as Gebietswein. Better known

for its fine white wines, the Wachau region

allows the varieties St. Laurent, Pinot Noir,

and Zweigelt as DAC Gebietswein – but

actual examples are rare.

BEYOND CLASS

Since DAC wine certification is subject to

technical and sensory tests that require

legal adherance to certain taste and style

parameters, some producers choose not to

pursue designations of origin. This is

because it is not uncommon for wines

produced by less conventional methods to

fall short of official requirements. Wineries

that operate according to biodynamic

principles find it difficult to obtain certification

as a quality wine, and some individualists

skip this procedure altogether and try

At the Andau winery, every

wine lover will find something

to their liking.

their luck on the free market. Orange and

natural wines have pushed discussions

about what is typical of a region or variety

into the background. However, when

certification tastings devolve into a tribunal

on deliberate stylistic choices that are by no

means mistakes – such as more tannins, less

sulfur, reduction notes, etc. – they do the

Austrian wine scene a disservice. Ultimately,

this only leads to the formation of cliques

and pointless debates pitting a conventional,

often somewhat short-sighted majority

against a minority that, at first glance,

seems radically different in its approach.

However, in times of declining wine

consumption, diversity is particularly

important. Who decides whether a

light-footed, handcrafted natural wine

with rough edges has less to offer than

a technically perfect, polished DAC

wine? Whether one or the other shows

more liveliness or better reflects its

terroir is ultimately in the eye of the

beholder. In the end, all good winemakers

value certain principles to achieve

<

Photos: Batonnage Club, Herbert Lehmann, Weingut Scheiblhofer


The finest

choice for the

best days of

the year!

Falstaff-winner

& the best Austrian

sparkling wine!

2018 Blanc de Blancs

Sekt Austria Große Reserve

96 of 100 points


<

the best results: Sustainable use of

resources, hand selection instead of

machine harvesting, organic farming

wherever possible – a quarter of Austrian

wine production is now certified organic –

are concepts that have long been beyond

dispute.

Michael Schwarz

from Andau

produces wines

intended as the ideal

pairing for hearty

food.

MUSIC FOR EVERYONE

And that brings us back to the comparison

with the world of music mentioned at the

start. Some people like opera and operetta,

while others wouldn’t be caught dead at a

classical concert. Some jam to rock and pop,

jazz and funk, but avoid country like the

plague, which in turn attracts its own mass

audience. It may be surprising, but the

number of people who find something

appealing in each of these very different

music styles is greater than you might think.

Fortunately, it’s not much different when it

comes to enjoying wine, and diverse cuisine

requires an equally eclectic oenological

Amphorae have long since

moved from the realm of

experimentation to a part of

modern winemaking.

universe. Today, winemakers present

themselves as philosophers, sommeliers as

communicators and cultural mediators; it is

up to them to introduce the public to the

myriad melodies found among the many

Austrian red wine styles.

The following Best Of lists, which

represent our favorites from the current

offerings, have been divided into three

stylistic groups: To keep with the theme,

we’ve called them Classic, Hard Rock, and

Funky Reds. Classic consists of elegant,

balanced wines – whether cuvées or single

varietals – which convey the cool climate

approach popular in Austria with careful

maturation, elegance, freshness, and

development potential. The second group

– Hard Rock – boasts concentration,

intensity, and spice, and is characterized by

fruity sweetness and nougat finish, channeling

an international style influenced by the

New World. Finally, Funky Reds represent

the avant garde: Many of these unconventional

creations are light-footed, uncomplicated,

and individualistic; often organic or

biodynamic; one might even say funky, or

freaky. And as different as these wines may

be, they are all indispensable elements of

the Austrian red wine symphony.

<

Photos:Weingut Schwarz, Fueloep.com, Frank Schindler

138 falstaff

dec–feb 2026

TEMENT

NATURE LEADS.

WE FOLLOW.

At the southernmost edge of Austria, the Tement

winery crafts expressive cool-climate wines, shaped

by its terroir and biodynamic principles.


In the hills of southern Styria, where

the vineyards meet the Adriatic breeze,

the Tement family has turned steep

slopes and sparse soils into one of

Austria’s most respected cool-climate estates.

Founded by grandfather Josef in the 1950s,

the winery is today led by the next generation,

rooted in handcraft and following strict

biodynamic Demeter viticulture.

FAMILY. TERROIR. HARMONY.

Vines grow between 300 and 500 metres, set

on soils millions of years old – from limestone

and marl to gravel, red sand and slate.

Warm Mediterranean days and cool Alpine

nights shape the elegant precision of the

region’s Sauvignon Blanc and Morillon, the

local name for Chardonnay. Each site carries

its own topography and microclimate, and

the Tements translate those characteristics

into their wines, revealing terroir yet always

speaking with one unmistakable voice. Each

hectare is farmed by hand, with spontaneous

fermentation and minimal intervention.

As members of Demeter, respekt-BIODYN

and Steirische Terroir & Klassikweingüter,

the Tements cultivate with deep respect for

natural rhythms. Southern Styria reflects this

philosophy, a landscape of rolling hills and

quiet villages, where wine and nature shape

each other. Visitors can experience this first

hand at the winery’s own Winzarei houses,

where the morning silence tells the same

story as the wines: all in harmony.

INFO

tement.at

dec–feb 2026

falstaff 139

wine / AUSTRIAN REDS

BEST OF

HARD ROCK REDS

99

96

96

2021 BATONNAGE

Wild Boys of Club Batonnage,

Burgenland

Dark ruby garnet, violet reflections,

slight ochre rim. Nuances of nougat

caramel, blueberry jam, blackberries,

candied violets, bourbon vanilla

underpinned by a hint of black olives.

Powerful, complex, black cherries,

delicate plum notes, fine acidity,

youthful tannins on the finish, dark

minerality, cherries and blackberries

in the aftertaste, hint of chocolate,

shows length and great development

potential.batonnage.com, €140.40

ZWEIGELT SCHWARZ ROT 2023

Weingut Schwarz

Andau, Burgenland

Dark ruby garnet, opaque core, violet

reflections, delicate lightening at the

rim. Fine tobacco spice, a hint of

blackberries and currants, subtle

vanilla nuances, some nougat, floral

notes of violets. Good complexity,

firm, elegant, touch of blackberry, has

a good acid structure, present, supporting

tannins, black cherries on the

finish, salty minerality, confident

aging potential.

schwarz-weine.at, €46.50

M1 2022

Weingut Gerhard Markowitsch

Göttlesbrunn, Carnuntum



rim. Delicate notes of nougat, blackberries,

heart cherries, hints of licorice

and cassis, underpinned by fine precious

wood spice, mineral touch.

Powerful, black cherries, plums, fine

acidity, extract-sweet core, supporting

tannins, mineral and very good

adherence, chocolatey finish, confident

aging potential.

markowitsch.at, €75

98

2022 WERNER ACHS RESERVE

Weingut Werner Achs

Gols, Burgenland


delicate lightening at the rim. Delicately

spicy nuances of cranberries and

licorice, black cherries, notes of precious

wood, inviting bouquet. Juicy, very

powerful, ripe plums, supporting

tannins, some nougat, dark minerality,

lingering finish, sweet blackberry jam,

still some tannins noticeable, salty

touch on the finish, needs further

aging. wernerachs.at, €95

(magnum only)

96

2021 NETZL PRIVAT

F. & Ch. Netzl

Göttlesbrunn, Carnuntum



rim. Multifaceted, cranberries and

mint, ripe plums, nougat underpinned

by licorice and cherries. Juicy,

complex, spicy, ripe cherries, wellintegrated

acidity, dark nougat, present

tannins, mineral, shows length

and potential, a full-bodied companion

at the table, already drinkable,

further development potential.

netzl.com, €58

95

2023 THE SHIRAZ

Weingut Scheiblhofer

Andau, Burgenland

14.5% Deep dark ruby garnet, opaque

core, violet reflections, delicate lightening

at the rim. Black olive tapenade,

a hint of licorice, cranberries,

meadow herbs, subtle nougat notes.

Juicy, cherries, blueberries, firm, fine,

present tannin structure, mineral,

herbal notes also in the finish, blackcurrants,

a complex food companion

with potential, will benefit

from bottle aging.

scheiblhofer.at, €26

97

96

94

2023 RÊVE DE JEUNESSE 44

René Pöckl

Mönchhof, Burgenland

Deep dark ruby garnet, opaque core,

violet reflections, delicate lightening

at the rim. Inviting bouquet of cassis

and blueberries, nuances of black

fruit, subtle dark chocolate, precious

wood spice. Good complexity, tightly

knit, black berry fruit, wellintegrated,

supporting tannin

structure, mineral, nougat in the

finish, a multifaceted and complex

food companion. poeckl.at, €59

MASSIVE A. RED

Weingut Artner

Höflein, Carnuntum

14.5% Dark ruby garnet, violet reflections,

delicate ochre rim lightening.

Fine nuances of vanilla and nougat,

ripe cherries, a hint of plum, fine precious

wood notes, inviting bouquet.

Powerful, juicy, fine red berry nuances,

velvety, supporting tannins,

mineral and elegant, a full-bodied

accompaniment to food with assured

aging potential.

artner.co.at, €60

2020 UNPLUGGED MERLOT

Hannes Reeh

Andau, Burgenland


reflections, delicate ochre rim brightening.

Nougat and licorice, black

forest berries, underpinned by fine

herbal spice and blackberry jam.

Powerful, complex, juicy, dark cherries,

ripe, supporting tannins, chocolatey

and lingering, showing length

and potential.

hannesreeh.at, €23

Photos: provided


THE BUTCHER IDENTITY.

THE SCHWARZ SIGNATURE.

WHO LIKES RED AND WHITE WINE

SHOULD GO FOR BLACK* OR TO THE BUTCHER

* n.b. the German translation

for black is SCHWARZ

www.schwarz-weine.at


99

2023 BLAUFRÄNKISCH

PERWOLFF

Weingut Krutzler

Deutsch-Schützen, Burgenland


delicate lightening at the rim. Fine

blackberry notes, floral touch,

subtle wood spice, heart cherries,

some orange zest, delicate cardamom,

multifaceted bouquet. Good

complexity, black cherry, fine tannin

structure, subtle extract sweetness,

mineral, harmonious, already drinkable,

assured aging potential.

krutzler.at, €65

BEST OF

CLASSIC REDS

98

2021 STEINZEILER

Weingut Kollwentz

Großhöflein, Burgenland


delicate lightening at the rim.

Delicate tobacco-tinged notes of

cassis and nougat, some cranberries

and plums, a hint of precious wood,

inviting bouquet. Complex, firm,

tightly knit, ripe red cherries, mineral

finish, delicate chocolatey aftertaste,

very good length, assured

aging potential.

kollwentz.at, €71

07

96

2022 PINOT NOIR RIED KÄSTEN-

BAUM

Weingut Reinisch

Tattendorf, Thermenregion

Deep ruby garnet, violet reflections,

broader ochre rim lightening. Floral

nuances, a hint of hibiscus, red berry

notes, mandarin zest, bouquet rich

in finesse. Powerful, lively berry fruit,

red cherries, nuances of red currants,

fine tannins, salty finish, a

delicate accompaniment to food,

assured aging potential.

j-r.at, €76.90

99

97

96

2021 G

Weingut Gesellmann

Deutschkreutz, Burgenland

Deep dark ruby garnet, opaque core,

violet reflections, delicate lightening

at the rim. Fine nuances of bourbon

vanilla, a hint of bergamot, nougat,

fresh red cherries, cloves, multifaceted

bouquet. Powerful, firm, juicy,

complex, extract-sweet texture, fine

acidity, perfectly ripened tannins,

mineral-salty, red berry finish, a hint

of nougat, lingers for minutes, great

promise, but needs time.

gesellmann.at, €76

2021 BLAUFRÄNKISCH

MARIENTAL

Weingut Ernst Triebaumer

Rust, Burgenland


delicate lightening at the rim. Multifaceted

bouquet, delicate herbal

spice, ripe cherry fruit, blackberries,

licorice, a hint of nougat. Good complexity,

tightly knit, firm, fresh acidity,

well-integrated tannins, mineral,

heart cherries on the finish, complex

and persistent, a multifaceted

accompaniment to food.

triebaumer.com. €58

2021 BLAUFRÄNKISCH CUPIDO

Weingut Silvia Heinrich

Deutschkreutz,



blackberry notes, delicate orange

and nougat, candied violets, fresh

plums, lively, inviting bouquet. Juicy,

elegant, good complexity, fruit

sweetness, fine acidity, supporting

tannins, blackberry notes on the

finish, delicate nougat in the aftertaste,

mineral upon the return, confident

aging potential.

weingut-heinrich.at, €75

99

97

96

2023 BLAUFRÄNKISCH LUTZ-

MANNSBURG ALTE REBEN

Weingut Moric

Großhöflein, Burgenland


subtle lightening at the rim. Fine

wild berry jam, fresh cherries, nuances

of cranberries and blackberries,

delicate herbal spice, orange zest,

mineral touch. Juicy, elegant, very

complex, red berry nuances, fresh

structure, fine tannins, salty-lemony

finish, lightand multifaceted, lingers

for minutes, great aging potential.

moric.at, €120

2023 CENTUM CUVÉE

Scheiblhofer/Prieler/Gesellmann/Kopfensteiner,

Burgenland

Dark ruby garnet, deep core, violet

reflections, delicate ochre rim lightening.

Fine plum, blackberry jam,

nuances of pickled cherries, mineral

aspects, underpinned by a touch of

precious wood. Complex, juicy, ripe

blueberries and cherries again, fresh

structure, ripe, supporting tannins,

fine extract sweetness on the finish,

lingers long, already harmonious,

has definite aging potential.

weinburgenland.at, €165

2018 ANTON BAUER PRIVAT

Anton Bauer

Feuersbrunn, Wagram

Strong ruby garnet, deep core, violet

reflections, delicate ochre rim brightening.

Nuances of blueberries and

licorice, delicate currants, a hint of

tobacco and precious wood, candied

orange zest. Full-bodied, dark cherries,

fine extract sweetness, silky,

ripe tannins, mineral, delicate nougat

notes on the finish, good persistence,

a multifaceted, harmonious

wine with further aging potential..

antonbauer.at, €80

Photos: provided



BEST OF

FUNKY REDS

98

98

96

2021 BLAUFRÄNKISCH RIED

OBERER WALD

Weingut Feiler-Artinger

Rust, Burgenland


delicate ochre at the rim. Fresh

cherries, red berry jam, licorice

notes underpinned by candied mandarin

zest, delicate nougat. Full-bodied

with sweet cherries, silky

tannins, mineral, good freshness,

very persistent, an elegant companion

to food, assured aging potential,

full of finesse and elegance.

feiler-artinger.at, €32.50

2022 BLAUFRÄNKISCH RIED

SPITZERBERG-OBERE SPITZER

Weingut Dorli Muhr

Prellenkirchen, Carnuntum

Strong carmine garnet, violet reflections,

broad ochre rim brightening.

Fine red wild berry jam, delicate

cherry notes with currants and

fresh orange zest and a mineral

undertone. Medium-bodied, harmonious,

red berry texture, fine acidity,

pickled cherries on the finish, lemony

nuances in the finish, delicate,

style, already well developed.

dorlimuhr.at, €120

2021 BLAUFRÄNKISCH TRIPLE B

Claus Preisinger

Gols, Burgenland

Strong carmine garnet, violet reflections,

broader ochre rim brightening.

Nuances of blackberry, tobacco, and

herbal spices, hints of red berries,

some raspberry pulp, floral undertones.

Full-bodied, ripe heart cherries,

mineral texture, good

freshness, lively, salty, extremely

light-footed and complex, a refined

accompaniment to food.

clauspreisinger.at, €49

98

97

96

2022 BLAUFRÄNKISCH EISEN-

BERG DAC RESERVE RIED

REIHBURG

Weingut Wachter-Wiesler

Deutsch Schützen, Eisenberg


delicate lightening at the rim. Dark

cherry confit underpinned by fine

herbal spice, hints of blueberries

and orange jam, inviting bouquet.

Good complexity, supporting

tannins, light-footed, yet with a deep

red berry core, long-lasting, inviting

and yet with great aging potential.

wachter-wiesler.at, €65

2021 LEITHABERG DAC RIED

JUNGENBERG

A.& H. Nittnaus

Gols, Burgenland


broader ochre rim lightening. Fine

herbal spice, dark cherries, some

blackberry jam and licorice, delicate

mineral touch. Juicy, round and elegant,

ripe currants, nuances of extract

sweetness, freshly structured, silky

and long-lasting, already very drinkable,

with further aging potential.

nittnaus.at, €61

019 RIED SALZBERG

H. & G. Heinrich

Gols, Burgenland



dark berry fruit, subtle wood spice,

candied violets, some nougat, balanced

bouquet. Good complexity, delicately

animalistic, well-integrated

tannin structure, hint of blueberry,

mineral, multi-layered, multifaceted

food companion, further potential.

heinrich.at, €68

98

96

95

2023 SANKT LAURENT RIED

REPISTYE

Hannes Schuster

St. Margarethen, Burgenland


broader lightening at the rim. Floral

undertones of red cherris, delicate

wild berry jam, subtle herbal spice,

mineral touch, hints of mandarin

zest. Complex, juicy, ripe cherries,

fine extract sweetness, red berries

on the finish, elegant and long-lasting,

seductive, a graceful wine

with assured development potential.

rosi-schuster.at, €75

2023 SYRAH FELSEN II

Christian Tschida

Illmitz, Neusiedlersee

Bright ruby garnet, violet reflections,

delicate lightening at the rim.

Delicate notes of candied violets, a

hint of kumquat, red berries, a touch

of olives in the background, mineral

touch. Tight, dense, fresh, a hint of

blueberries, cool minerality, graceful,

precise varietal character, salty

finish, tightly knit and long-lasting.

christiantschida.at, €45

20216 GÜTERWEG BLAUFRÄN-

KISCH BODIGRABEN.

Kolfok, (Stefan Wellanschitz),

Neckenmarkt, Burgenland


broader lightening at the rim. Mineral,

delicate herbal spice, blackberries,

dark cherries, still somewhat

reserved. Juicy, ripe plums, extract

sweetness, ripe tannins, chocolatey

notes, lingering, a multifaceted food

companion, further aging potential.

kolfok.com, €55

Photos: provided


SILVIA HEINRICH WINERY

Vintner Silvia

Heinrich creates

amazing

Blaufränkisch

wines, thanks

to the 80-yearold

vines in her

vineyard.

Cupido 2019 – 99 Falstaff

points and winner of the

Falstaff Reserve Trophy.

THE BLAUFR ÄNK ISCH-

WHISPERER

In Deutschkreuz, the heart of Austria’s Blaufränkisch country,

Silvia Heinrich runs a winery that has been in her family for

generations with impressive consistency.

ADVERTORIAL Pictures: Laura Jagoschuetz, Mili Badic

Silvia Heinrich has an uncompromising

approach to wine: 100%

hand-picked, 100% handmade,

100% passion. Since taking over

her family’s winery in 2010, she has made

every decision herself – from the vineyard

to the bottling. An expert on Blaufränkisch,

Heinrich vinifies the grape variety in seven

distinct variants – from characterful entrylevel

wines offering outstanding value for

money to award-winning premium wines

such as her Blaufränkisch Cupido, or

cuvées like Elegy and Tre Grazie. The latter,

a limited-edition made from Cabernet Sauvignon

and Cabernet Franc, is a masterpiece

of the 2019 vintage and will be released

exclusively in magnums at the end of the

year after six years of aging.

ROOTED IN HERITAGE,

DRIVEN BY INNOVATION

The foundation of her success lies in the

old vines planted by her parents and grandparents.

»This is our heritage – and my daily

motivation to do everything right,« she

explains. State-of-the-art technology, such

as a new optical grape sorting system, complements

traditional methods and ensures

the quality for which Heinrich’s wines are

known, which will be certified organic starting

with the next harvest.

The next generation is already at work,

with Heinrich’s daughters Julia and Anna

adding fresh ideas. Together, they created

the non-alcoholic verjus varieties Sour and

Rosé – 100% Blaufränkisch, 100% natural,

but 0% alcohol – with labels designed

by daughter Anna. At her request, Heinrich

vinified a Blanc de Noir for the first time as

a white-pressed Blaufränkisch – a playful

exception to her otherwise entirely red

wine lineup.

One thing is clear: The Heinrich winery

crafts exceptional red wines enjoyed

around the globe. Only the Baltic States

and the Nordic countries still lack an

importer for Heinrich wines.

INFO

Silvia Heinrich Winery

Karrnergasse 59

7301 Deutschkreutz

weingut-heinrich.at


wine / ADVERTORIAL

Oregon has earned a

global reputation for

its Pinot Noir.

THE BEST

OF THE WEST

The Pacific Northwest has become one of the most dynamic wine regions in

North America. Oregon and Washington State embody this new spirit of American

viticulture: bold, terroir-focused, and uncompromisingly independent.

TEXT DOMINIK VOMBACH

Photo: Oregon Wine Board


dec–feb 2026

falstaff

147

wine / ADVERTORIAL

Oregon’s Antica

Terra project

has been defying

conventional

Burgundy wisdom

for 20 years, with

Maggie Harrison

(insert) leading

the way.

Over the past few decades,

America‘s Pacific Northwest

has become one of the most

exciting wine regions in the

New World, with Washington

State and Oregon at the forefront of a

young, dynamic wine culture. What

connects these neighboring regions is much

more than geographical proximity: it is an

attitude. Instead of stodgy tradition, both

are shaped by openness and cooperation.

Wineries here see their work as more craft

than art, characterized by a keen awareness

of their own terroir.

around 20 years ago and deliberately

broke with traditional Burgundy

conventions. She blends vintages, works

with micro-parceled yields, and emphasizes

texture and expression rather than typicity

– resulting in wines that are now among

the most sought-after in the U.S. Besides

the Willamette Valley, where excellent

Chardonnays are increasingly common,

new winegrowing regions in southern

Oregon’s Umpqua and Rogue Valleys

increasingly cultivate heat-loving varieties

like Syrah and Tempranillo, expanding the

variety Oregon has to offer.

<

OREGON: PINOT NOIR

REVOLUTION

Oregon is considered a pioneer in the

modern, high-quality cultivation of Pinot

Noir outside of Europe. Less than two

hours‘ drive south of Portland, the Willamette

Valley offers ideal conditions with its

cool, maritime climate and volcanic soils.

Producers like Cristom Vineyards in Salem

have been setting standards there since the

1990s: their single-vineyard labels like Jessie

Vineyard or Eileen Vineyard combine

finesse, excitement, and impressive longevity.

Another trailblazer was Maggie Harrison,

whose Antica Terra project started

Photos: Antica Terra, Jeremy Fenske, Blue Wine Creative


wine / ADVERTORIAL

Above the clouds,

with Mount Rainier

watching over the

horizon, Washington’s

wines mirror their

birthplace

<

Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville is

Washington State’s founding winery and a

cornerstone of American viticulture.

WASHINGTON STATE: WORLD

CLASS REDS

The latter two are the great strength of

Washington State, the country‘s second-largest

wine producer – and for good reason.

Most of its vineyards are located east of the

Cascade Mountains in the Columbia,

Yakima, and Walla Walla valleys, where the

climate is dry and continental, with hot

summer days, cool nights, and cold winters.

These temperature fluctuations encourage

intense aromas and freshness, which is why

their Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots, and

Syrahs reach world-class levels.

Chateau Ste. Michelle played a decisive

role in this development, having significantly

shaped quality viticulture in Washington

State since the 1970s. Today, the established

producers are

joined by a growing

number of smaller,

terroir-focused estates

who are making their mark

on the region. A great example

is Reynvaan Family Vineyards:

Their Syrahs from the Rocks District of

Milton-Freewater, a small appellation on

the Oregon side of the southern Walla

Walla Valley impressively demonstrates

how much character, depth, and individuality

that varietal can achieve. Together,

Oregon and Washington State show how

strongly the Pacific Northwest has shaped

the image of modern American viticulture

– authentic, experimental, and deeply

connected to its own terroir.

<

Photos: Jav Cid Photography, Chateau Ste Michelle


HOTEL SONNENHOF

TIME OUT AT

AUSTRIA’S GOURMET

HOTEL OF THE YEAR

Hotel Sonnenhof – Your Retreat in Tyrol on the Border

between Austria & Germany.

ADVERTORIAL Photos: Jörg Lehmann, Ratko Medienagentur

Nestled in a sun-drenched valley,

near two crystal-clear mountain

lakes, lies the Sonnenhof – a

place where alpine nature, fine

cuisine, and relaxed comfort naturally

come together. Right on the border with

Germany and near Neuschwanstein Castle,

yet already in Austria, here you can experience

a pleasurable time out surrounded by

nature and long moments of happiness.

The focus is on good taste: Our internationally

awarded wine list (Best Wine List

in Austria) brings top wines from all over

the world to your glass – from big names

to exciting discoveries and natural wines.

To do this, choose between two excellent

restaurants: a fine à la carte restaurant

for individual moments of indulgence

and a fine dining restaurant for special

evenings. Those who prefer something

uncomplicated, yet high-quality, can opt

for our half-board with cleverly composed

menus and traditional Tyrolean dishes

with a twist.

Around the house, numerous opportunities

open up: scenic hikes, gentle walks

along the mountain lakes, and dreamy

From left to right: Christina and Rainer Müller,

Patrick and Madlen Müller.

cross-country skiing routes through the

sunny valley. After active hours in nature,

the spacious wellness area with indoor and

outdoor pools as well as various saunas

awaits you – always with a view of the surrounding

mountains. Here, relaxing comes

easily, and settling in even more so.

INFO

HOTEL SONNENHOF

Füssener-Jöchle-Straße 5,

6673 Grän Tannheimertal

T: +43 5675 6375

post@sonnenhof-tirol.com

sonnenhof-tirol.com


wine / BORDEAUX – LEFT BANK

Right on the Atlantic coast, Bordeaux is the quintessential

French wine region. On this trip to the legendary left bank

around the city of Bordeaux, we discover complex world-class

reds, full-bodied whites, and noble, sweet vintages.

TEXT PETER MOSER

An exotic vista on the Médoc’s

château road : Château Cos

d‘Estournel in Saint-Estèphe.

Photo: Oliverasoscar/Shutterstock


TOUR DE

WINETOUR

BORDEAUX

LEFT BANK

BORDEAUX

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

153


The magnificent Château

Ducru-Beaucaillou lies

on the château road in

Saint-Julien.

Bustling Bordeaux is more

than just superlative wine

– it’s a perfect marriage

of contemporary chic and

medieval charm.

W

ith over 100,000

hectares of vineyards,

Bordeaux and

its many appellations

is one of the

largest wine-producing regions in the

world. It is impossible to fully explore this

oenophile‘s paradise in a single trip. So this

time, we‘ll explore the so-called “left bank”

of the Garonne river, to the left of the river

Gironde and the Atlantic coast.

Downstream all the way to the mouth of

the river, you‘ll find the sweet wine regions

of Sauternes and Barsac, the Pessac-Léognan

appellation in the south, but also the city of

Bordeaux and finally the Médoc, where the

famous wine-growing regions of Margaux,

Saint-Julien, Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe

stretch out to the north. Cabernet Sauvignon

dominates here, while Merlot and Cabernet

Franc reign on the „right bank“ of the

Gironde and the Dordogne river, featuring

the well-known regions of Saint-Émilion,

Pomerol, Fronsac and the Côtes.

Photos: Eo naya/Shutterstock, Deepix, Cite du Vin, Chateau Haut Brion, Iluustration: Stefanie Hilgarth/carolineseidler.com

154

falstaff

dec–feb 2026

CITY OF WINE

Our starting point is the lively city of

Bordeaux, which in recent years has been

transformed from an ugly duckling into a

real beauty. In days gone by, people tended

to steer clear of the old lady, but today,

Bordeaux is modern, young and dynamic.

Here, you‘ll find great food, wine bars,

and Michelin-starred restaurants on every

corner, and you can stroll along the lovely

riverside promenades.

A new, modern district has been created

around the Cité du Vin, numerous new hotels

beckon, and the Les Halles de Bacalan

market opposite the wine museum is the latest

star attraction and a must-see for every

visitor. In the middle of this vibrant town,

some world-famous wineries like Château

Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion are

hidden away in the suburbs. Another urban

winery just a stone‘s throw away is Carmes

Haut-Brion. And the vines of Château Pape-Clément

grow right next to the Rocade

urban freeway.

All 45 hectares of

vineyards producing

Premier Grand Cru

Classé Haut-Brion

are within Bordeaux‘

city limits.

REDS TO THE NORTH

From Bordeaux city, follow the river and

the Gironde on the left side to the north

and take the famous château road towards

Margaux. This southernmost appellation of

the Médoc is home to 56 châteaux – including

viticultural all-stars e like Châteaux

Margaux, Premier Grand Cru Classé since

1855– another 20 are classified growers,

and with 21 in total over a vineyard area

of 1500 hectares, it‘s the largest number

of Grands Crus Classés in the Médoc.

Architecturally, the châteaux range from

medieval forts to neoclassical palaces, and

their famous parks and gardens have long

been recognized by UNESCO as a World

Heritage Site. The red wines of Margaux

are famous for their charm, silky tannins

and profound finesse.

A few kilometers to the north is Saint-Julien,

the smallest appellation with 910

hectares and eleven Grands Crus – including

five Superseconds such as Durcu-Beaucaillou,

Gruaud-Larose and the three

Léovilles (Las Cases, Poyferré and Barton).

The reds here are tighter, spicier and more

complex than in Margaux, with a number

of Merlot vines alongside the dominant

<

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

155


Château Haut-Bailly in

Pessac-Léognan keeps

its new cellar tastefully

concealed under a small,

green hill.

<

Cabernet Sauvignon providing a certain

suppleness.

Next stop is the Holy Grail for friends

of Cabernet Sauvignon: Some of the

world‘s most famous vineyards are located

around the small port town of Pauillac.

Pichon-Baron and Pichon-Comtesse

form the entrance toward the south along

the château road, and if you look to the

right towards the Gironde, you can see

the tower of Château Latour. The other

two Premiers Grands Crus, Mouton-Rothschild

and Lafite-Rothschild, are located

to the north of town. A total of eighteen

classified growers are based in the

Cabernet stronghold. The wines here are

full-bodied with firm tannins, have great

ageing potential and are marked by hints

of cassis and tobacco.

robust, pithy tannins and a salty minerality.

The Pessac-Léognan region extends

to the south of the city of Bordeaux. The

top winery there is Château Haut-Brion,

the only one to be classified as a Premier

Grand Cru Classé in 1855. There are

sixteen wines classified as Crus Classeés de

Graves in this area, although a distinction is

made between white and red wines.

Six estates are classified for both, seven

only for their reds and three only for white

wine – the only place in the world to do so.

In addition to the Haut-Brions, the Domaine

de Chevalier, Château Smith Haut Lafitte,

Cos d’Estournel also

offers fine dining – and

unforgettable stays at

La Maison.

Malartic-Lagravière and Haut-Bailly are

worthy of attention.

The sweet finale is half an hour‘s drive further

south toward Sauternes. Here, autumn

mists ensure the occurrence of noble rot,

which enables the production of full-bodied

sweet wines from the Sauvignon Blanc and

Sémillon varieties. A total of 27 estates were

classified here in 1855; Château d‘Yquem

is a Premier Cru Supérieur soloist, there are

eleven Prémiers Crus and 16 Deuxième Crus

found here. The “left bank” has everything

to offer: great reds, mineral dry white wines

and great sweet wines.

<

EXOTIC CHÂTEAUX

On a small hill opposite Lafite-Rothschild,

you‘ll find perhaps the most visually exotic

estate in the Médoc, Château Cos d‘Estournel,

a palace fit for an Indian maharajah.

It is one of the most important wine

estates in the Saint-Estèphe appellation

and an essential stop on any tour. Further

north, you‘ll see the impressive Château

Montose on the banks of the Gironde

and the classic Calon-Ségur. Their wines

show good freshness, dark berry fruit,

Photos: Iwan Baan, Grégoire Gardette (2), Victor Cornec


PROWEIN

PROWEIN

DÜSSELDORF 2026

For over 30 years, ProWein drives the wine and spirits industry forward.

Its March timing – set early in partnership with exhibitors – ensures each

new vintage has the time it needs to reveal its true character.

ADVERTORIAL Images provided

ProWein Düsseldorf has long been

a catalyst for innovation, spotting

emerging trends early and giving

them the visibility they need to

grow. From sustainable vineyard practices to

lightweight packaging, what once seemed

future-focused is now standard – and

increasingly shapes buying decisions. The

next edition of ProWein Düsseldorf, taking

place from 15–17 March 2026, will advance

significantly once again. A strengthened

ProSpirits across two dedicated halls and the

established no/low tasting zone are joined by

a greatly enhanced FairMatch tool within

the ProWein app, streamlining preparation,

matchmaking and contact management

while enabling year-round use. The app

also offers comprehensive exhibitor and

product details.

With its newly designed Agora stage,

ProWein Düsseldorf provides a powerful

platform that carries socially relevant

industry topics well beyond the fair itself.

While the event remains firmly focused on

an efficient B2B environment, the upgraded

»ProWein goes City« initiative – developed

together with the city – will bring the

industry’s unique spirit to consumers ahead

of the show. Düsseldorf will once again

become the global hub of wine and spirits

during this period.

BUILT FOR BUYERS

In 2026, ProWein Düsseldorf will unveil a

future-ready hall layout with shorter distances,

fully preserved exhibition space and

improved stand allocations. Under the motto

Shape.Create.Elevate., a needs-driven hosted-buyer

programme and an expanded concierge

service form the new core. Established

formats such as ProWein Zero, ProWein

Sparkling and ProWein Spirits continue to

offer guidance and inspiration. Over three

days, leading thinkers and industry voices

will share insights and visions on the Pro-

Wein Agora. With 4,000 exhibitors from

more than 60 countries, the fair delivers a

compelling blend of international reach and

portfolio depth.

The Cool Climate Summit in Copenhagen

in January 2026 offers an early glimpse of

what lies ahead. As a partner of this unique

event, ProWein Düsseldorf is delighted to

welcome an exciting selection of cool-climate

producers – including several from

Denmark – to its dedicated area.

INFO

Further information at

prowein.com



The city of Bordeaux

has numerous fine dining

options: Among the best is

Pressoir d’Argent at

Le Grand Hotel.

ADDRESSES

on to great red and white Cos wines, you can also

relax and stay overnight at the Maison d‘Estournel.

Cos S, 33180 Saint-Estèphe

T: +33 556 731550, estournel.com

CHÂTEAUX

CHÂTEAU MARGAUX, MARGAUX

One of the oldest and most renowned estates in

the Médoc, now run by the third generation of the

Mentzelopoulos family. Famous for its silky, elegant

reds and its Pavillon Blanc one of the best

white wines made from Sauvignon Blanc.

Château Margaux, 3460 Margaux

T: +33 557 888383, chateau-margaux.com

CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE-LAS-CASES

SAINT-JULIEN

If there is one winery that deserves to be promoted

to Premier Cru , it’s Leóville-las-Cases, right next

to Château Latour and the first among equals in

Saint-Julien. Since 1902, they’ve been making Clos

du Marquis, another excellent terroir wine.

Rue de l’École, 33250 St.Julien-Beychevelle

T: +33 556 732526, domaines-delon.com

CHÂTEAU LATOUR, PAUILLAC

A vineyard since 1331, the estate was acquired in

1993 by billionaire François Pinault and has been

managed by Frédéric Engerer since 1998. Château

Latour was an early adopter of biodynamic principles,

and its red wines have set the standard for the

Left Bank year after year.

27, route des Châteaux, 33250 Pauillac

T: +33 556 731980

chateau-latour.com

CHÂTEAU MOUTON-ROTHSCHILD, PAUILLAC

Legendary for its first-class wine and labels designed

by famous artists. Baron Nathan de Rothschild

acquired the estate in 1853, and in 1973 Baron Philippe

achieved the unprecedented feat of promoting

Mouton from Deuxième Cru to Premier Cru.

Château Mouton-Rothschild, 33250 Pauillac

T: +33 556 732129,

chateau-mouton-rothschild.com

CHÂTEAU LAFITE-ROTHSCHILD, PAUILLAC

In Bordeaux’ original 1855 classification, Lafite ranked

first among the Premiers Grands Crus, and

thanks to its uncompromising standards, it still

lives up to this claim. With Saskia de Rothschild at

the helm, a new generation is now in charge.

Château Lafite-Rothschild, 33250 Pauillac

T: +33 556 731818, lafite.com

CHÂTEAU COS D’ESTOURNEL,

SAINT-ESTÈPHE

Unique in many ways, this winery has been the passion

project of Michel Reybier since 2000. In additi-

Château d’Yquem in Sauternes is known for the best

sweet wines in Bordeaux.

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRION, PESSAC

The beautifully renovated Pavillon Catelan at the

entrance to the château, serves as the estate’s visitor

center, where private tastings can be organized.

The wine cellar offers labels from all of the Clarence

Dillon family estates.

135 avenue Jean Jaurés, 33608 Pessac

T: +33 556 002930, haut-brion.com

CHÂTEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE, LÉOGNAN

Since the Cathiard family took over in 1991, this

winery has set new standards with both its dry

whites and reds. With its restaurants, hotel, and

spa, it offers a complete sensory experience.

Smith Haut Lafitte, 33650 Martillac

T: +33 557 831122

smith-haut-lafitte.com

CHÂTEAU D’YQUEM, SAUTERNES

Visible from afar, this viticultural bastion towers

over its vineyards. This is where the world‘s finest

sweet wines are produced. Yquem can only be

described in one word: perfection.

Château d’Yquem, 33210 Sauternes

T: +33 557 980707, yquem.fr

HOTELS & FOOD

LE GRAND HOTEL

The flagship of the Intercontinental Group offers

every conceivable comfort, and its central location

opposite the Opéra National is an ideal starting

point for exploring Bordeaux. It boasts two restaurants,

including Pressoir d‘Argent (curated by

Gordon Ramsay), a legendary rooftop bar, excellent

service, and a fantastic spa.

2-5 place de la Comédie, 33000 Bordeaux

T: + 33 557 304444, ihg.com

<

Photos: Yoris Photographer, Pepa, Tim Graham/robertharding/ Picturedesk


VOLVO ES90

SOME THINGS ARE BETTER

LEFT UNHEARD

In a world filled with constant noise, silence has become the ultimate luxury.

Surrounded by the hum of daily life, we’ve almost forgotten what true quiet

feels like. Enter the new Volvo ES90 – a car that transforms motion

into calm and technology into tranquility.

Volvo ES90 Technical data Engine:

Single (rearwheel drive) or twin

(all-wheel drive) electric motor.

DC charging: 310 or 250 kW max.

Range 10 min charge: 260 – 300 km.

Range: 651 – 755 km.

ADVERTORIAL Photos: provided

Today’s discerning drivers are redefining

what matters most. It’s no

longer about power or performance,

but serenity, comfort, and

the art of effortless travel.

The fully electric ES90 embodies this philosophy.

Every surface, fabric, and material

has been meticulously tuned to create perfect

acoustic harmony. Combined with air

suspension and a seamless interface, the

result is a whisper-quiet cocoon that turns

every journey into an act of relaxation.

With a range of up to 700 kilometers and

rapid charging that adds a range of 300

kilometers in just ten minutes, the ES90

proves that the limits of electric mobility are

no longer technical – they’re human. The

conversation has shifted from what’s under

the hood to what happens inside the cabin.

In today’s premium segment, the true

measure of excellence lies not in numbers

but in the experience: the tactility of materials,

the clarity of sound, the intuition of

design. Engineers, designers, and acoustic

specialists have become the new artisans of

automotive luxury.

And while the ES90 represents the future

of quiet sophistication, it remains anchored

in Volvo’s enduring commitment to safety.

Beneath its elegant surfaces lies the strength

of Swedish steel – designed to protect,

always.

The golden age of hand-crafted beauty

may belong to the past, but the age of intelligent

comfort is now. With its soft, nearsilent

glide and a superb Bowers & Wilkins

sound system that makes even silence sound

divine, the ES90 redefines what modern

luxury feels like. Perhaps the next indulgence

is already on the horizon: fine dining

delivered to your car as it recharges. A new

era of travel – quiet, conscious, and beautifully

composed– has begun.

INFO

volvocars.com


wine / BORDEAUX– LEFT BANK

Wine and dine: Der Grand Cru Classé

Marquis de Terme is a gourmet’s

dream come true.

<

HOTEL RENAISSANCE BORDEAUX

Part of the Marriott group, this new hotel s located

practically opposite the Cité du Vin in a lively, upand-coming

neighborhood. Great terrace with

views of the old harbor and the gourmet center Les

Halles de Bacalan.

15, rue de Gironde, 33000 Bordeaux

T: +33 519 800200, marriott.com

RESTAURANT LE PAVILLON DES BOULEVARDS

Young chef Thomas Morel and his charming spouse,

Celia, offer modern, graceful, yet highly elaborate

cuisine in an appealing atmosphere at this restaurant,

which has held a Michelin star since 1989.

120 Rue de la Croix-de-Seguey, 33000 Bordeaux

T: +33 556 815102, pavillondesboulvards.fr

LA TUPINA

This auberge has been a fixture of Bordeaux‘s food

scene for decades. Not far from the Grande Cloche,

chef Franck Audu celebrates the classic rustic cuisine

of southwest France, continuing a tradition

established by Jean-Pierre Xiradaks in 1968.

6 Rue Porte de la Monnaie, 33000 Bordeaux

T: +33 556 915637, latupina.com

RESTAURANT L’OBSERVATOIRE DU GABRIEL

A culinary outpost of Château Angélus within city

limits. Michelin-starred chef Bertrand Noeureuil

creates works of art on a plate, while the wine list

is personally curated by Stéphanie de Broüard-

Rivoual – with over 1,000 items, it has something

for everyone.

10 Place de la Bourse, 33000 Bordeaux

T: +33 556 300080, le-gabriel-bordeaux.fr

CHÂTEAU CORDEILLAN-BAGES

In the Bages neighborhood of Pauillac, the Cazes

family runs both the famous Lynch-Bages winery

and this veritable culinary hub of the Médoc region.

The Cordeillan-Bages is the region‘s five-star hotel,

and nearby, the Café Lavinal is a top culinary destination.

Head sommelier Arnaux Le Saux has

around 1,800 items on his impressive wine list.

Route de Châteaux, 33250 Pauillac

T: +33 556 592424, cordeillanbages.com

RESTAURANT LE SAINT-JULIEN

Claude and Rosy Broussard have been running this

classic country inn serving traditional cuisine since

1996, emphasizing that true gourmet indulgence

takes time.

11 Rue de Saint-Julien, Saint-Julien Beychevelle

T: +33 556 596387, restaurant-le-saint-julien.com

RESTAURANT (AU) MARQUIS DE TERME

Thibaud Guena offers Michelin-starred cuisine both

on the terrace of the winery’s courtyard and within

the elegant premises of a restaurant. Grégory

Coutanceau of La Riochelle (Les Flots) is the chef

de cuisine.

Marquis de Terme, 3 Rte de Rauzan,

33460 Margaux

T: +33 557 082533, au-marquis-de-terme.com

LES SOURCES DE CAUDALIE

This five-star hotel and spa, with its renowned

vinotherapy center and two restaurants, is located

less than twenty minutes by car outside the city

amidst the vineyards of Pessac-Léognan.

Smith Haut-Lafitte, 33650 Martillac

T: +33 557 838383, sources-caudalie.com

CHÂTEAU LAFAURIE-PEYRAGUEY

Winery, luxury hotel, and top tier restaurant: Swiss

entrepreneur and Lalique owner Silvio Denz has

fulfilled his lifelong dream here.

Peyraguey, 33210 Bommes, Sauternes

T: + 33 524 228011

chateau-laforie.peyraguey.com

<

A great starting

point for exploring

Sauternes: Château

Laforie-Peyraguey

and its Restaurant

Lalique.

Photos: Edouard Nguyen, Marquis de Terre, Agi Simoes/Reto Guntli, Karine Faby Photographer


SATTLERHOF

A FARM ROOTED IN TIME

What began as a modest family vineyard in the 1960s in Südsteiermark has become

a name whispered among wine lovers worldwide. Three generations, one vision:

to cultivate uncompromising quality, rooted in heritage and guided by nature.

Alex and Andreas Sattler


At the edge of a small village,

where steep hills fold into sun

and soil, stands a farm that tells

a story in every stone. Three

generations have shaped it – hands, hearts,

and harvests intertwined. What once was a

modest vineyard is now a living dialogue

between tradition and transformation.

Old vines reach deep into the earth, holding

the memory of decades. Their strength

defines the wines: structured, precise, yet

full of quiet emotion. Here, biodynamic

cultivation is not a label but a rhythm. Every

step – compost, soft pruning, gentle pres-

sing – belongs to a greater

cycle that returns more

than it takes.

Selection massale preserves the identity

of each vine, ensuring that no two rows are

ever the same. Diversity is not managed;

it’s celebrated. The Brothers Alex and Andreas

Sattler work the land, where people,

plants, and animals share a single breath.

Above the cellar, a Michelin-starred restaurant

brings the circle to completion. The

wines find their echo in every plate, every

season, every story told around the table.

A place that began with soil and vision

has become a secret passed

from hand to hand – a whisper

of authenticity in a world too loud.

Imported by Ferment Norway, Lively

wines Sweden and Sigurd Müller Denmark.

INFO

sattlerhof.at


Editor of

Spirits

LUDWIG ANDERSSON

SPIRITS

FROM A SAUNA

TO THE WORLD

A

Finnish craft producer born from a

bold idea, Kyrö Distillery began

when five friends sat in a sauna

wondering why no one makes whisky from

the abundant rye in the area; soon after,

they were distilling in an abandoned dairy

near Isokyrö. It didn’t take long for them to

make their mark: their Kyrö Gin was

named the world’s best for Gin & Tonic in

2015, selling out in just two days. Kyrö

Malt Whisky followed in 2019, followed by

Kyrö Sauna Stories in 2024: Finished

within the heat and steam of Finland’s favorite

pastime, it even inspired the novel Sauna

Bar concept. Today, Kyrö is known for

its use of hardy, 100% Finnish wholegrain

rye for all its products – whisky, gin,

liqueur, and vodka – and for a creative spirit

that remains deeply rooted in the

warmth, boldness, and camaraderie of the

sauna. kyrodistillery.com

PRECISION FOR

THE PALATE

A Swedish glassware company that

blends quality with personal

expression, BOBO balances between

tradition and rebellion, technical

perfection and playful curiosity.

Equally suited to white tablecloths

and everyday settings, BOBO was

Inspired by poet Gérard de Nerval’s

eccentric walks with his pet lobster,

and seeks to enhance the drinking

experience rather than dominate it.

Thin walls, seamless rims, and a

pared-down form allow the glass to

disappear into the background, letting

the contents take center stage.

bobo.store

THE WORLD’S BEST BARS

GETS SOME NORDIC FLAIR

The World’s 50 Best Bars

is an annual list that

ranks the world’s finest

establishments, based on

votes from over 800

international experts.

This year’s edition has

the Nordic region well

represented by Oslo

bars Himkok at No. 14

and Svanen at No. 32.

Stockholm also made a

strong showing with

Röda Huset at No. 35 and

Tjoget at No. 76. Copenhagen claimed a spot

with Bird at No. 66. theworlds50best.com

162 falstaff

dec–feb 2026

NEWS

MARION MOUTTE IS BARTENDER OF THE YEAR

From western Switzerland

to the top: Marion Moutte of

the Lausanne Cocktail Club

has made it! After taking off

at World Class, Moutte's

creative concoctions also

impressed the FALSTAFF

jury. As Switzerland's best

bartender, Moutte repeatedly

showcases her “cuisine

style” and her experience in

Michelin-starred restaurants.

Flavor, c'est très

important!

lausanne- cocktail-club.ch

NORRTÄLJE BRÄNNERI RÖKIG

Known for its punsch and fruit brandy, the

Norrtälje distillery now unveils its very first

peated Single Malt. Made from organic

monastery-grown barley and aged for six

years in bourbon casks, it marks a new

chapter in this family farm’s whisky

journey. norrtaljebranneri.se

Photos: Tuukka Koski/Koski Syvari, BoBo Glassware, Maksym Fesenko/Edu Gonzalez/Shutterstock, provided

THE WORLD’S NORTHERN-

MOST WHISKY DISTILLERY

Glacial meltwater, local barley, and small

casks are central to Bivrost’s identity:

deeply rooted in Nordic mythology,

emphasizing origin, craftsmanship, and

the unique conditions of its location. At

their Aurora Distillery, arctic temperature

shifts accelerate maturation, resulting in a

distinct development. Bivrost also runs an

Arctic barley project using the six-row

varieties Heder and Brage – rich in character

despite low yields. bivrost.com

MYKEN PEATED

A whisky producer with a few years under its

belt, Northern Norway’s Myken distillery

uses desalinated seawater, reflecting a commitment

to Arctic authenticity. Inspired by

Scottish tradition, their stills are heated over

open flames—a rare and labor-intensive

method. In addition, Myken’s peated Single Malt

is matured in old bourbon casks and barrels

that previously held the French fortified wine

Pineau des Charentes, adding layers of

complexity. myken.no

WELL-AGED GIN,

THE SWEDISH WAY

Back in 2016, Hernö began experimental

barrel aging for its Sipping Series; and

after significant growth, the 2025 edition

is a special milestone. The original 2016

cask has now matured for nine years and

is being paired with a gin that underwent

a 35-day finish in a sherry cask for a

superlative drink. hernogin.com

LIHNELL VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE

1936

Swedish Single Malts aged for over a

decade are exclusive, and this one is

exceptionally rare. Hailing from Örebro,

this 12-year-old whisky spent its entire

maturation in a vintage champagne cask

from 1937(!). Remarkably, the cask survived

intact without drying out, offering a

striking contrast to the heavily peated

contents. This is a Single Cask release,

yielding just 339 bottles. lihnells.se

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

163

12 COUNTRIES

4 LANGUAGES

300.000 CIRCULATION

3 MIO READERS

& USERS

FALSTAFF = COMMUNITY!

“As we continue our journey to

become No. 1 in Europe, we take

pleasure in inspiring and guiding our

readers through the world of good

living and leisure!”

WOLFGANG ROSAM, PUBLISHER OF FALSTAFF


Norway

Sweden

Finland

Estonia

Lithuania

FALSTAFF IS

PUBLISHED IN THESE

COUNTRIES:

AUSTRIA

Denmark

Latvia

GERMANY

SWITZERLAND

ITALY

Germany

SLOVAKIA

DENMARK

Slovakia

SWEDEN

Switzerland

Austria

NORWAY

FINLAND

ESTONIA

Italy

LATVIA

LITHUANIA

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

165

spirits / BAR GUIDE 2026

NORDIC

EXCELLENCE

The 2026 Falstaff Bar Guide not only lists the best of the best

– it also honors the standouts of the cocktail scene. These are

the ones to watch this year.

Check out the entire Falstaff Nordics

Barguide 2026 online unter

go.falstaff.com/barguide-nordics-2026

Oslo’s Pier 42

pairs transatlantic elegance

with Nordic restraint.

Photo: Francisco Nogueira

166

falstaff

dec–feb 2026

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

167

spirits / BAR GUIDE 2026 DENMARK

TOP 10

C O C K TA I L BARS

DENMARK

BEST NEWCOMER

DENMARK

HELENE ROSENFELDT

BAR NU

From Odense to Copenhagen, Helene Rosenfeldt

embodies the new generation reshaping Denmark’s

bar culture. At Bar Visit and now Bar Nu,

she brings artistry and precision to every creation

– from menu design to the glass itself. Her background

in graphic design lends her cocktails a

visual harmony matched only by their flavor.

Already recognised in competitions, Helene

stands out for her curiosity, courage, and creative

discipline – an emerging voice in modern Scandinavian

mixology. bar-nu.dk

RATING

Drinks

Ambiance

Service

Selection

TOTAL

48 of 50

19 of 20

19 of 20

8 of 10

95 of 100

Ruby

1203 Copenhagen 97 Points

Bird Downtown


Duck and Cover


Victory


Bird


BEST AMERICAN BAR

DENMARK

RUBY, COPENHAGEN

For nearly two decades, Ruby has been the gold

standard in Copenhagen’s cocktail world. Set

within an elegant 1850s townhouse, it balances

vintage charm with contemporary Nordic ease.

Guests flow from the lively main bar to the softly

lit basement or leafy courtyard, discovering the

city’s most timeless gathering place. Blending

artistry with authenticity, Ruby remains a modern

classic – intimate, vibrant, and effortlessly at

home in the heart of the capital. rby.dk

RATING

Drinks

Ambiance

Service

Selection

TOTAL

49 of 50

20 of 20

20 of 20

8 of 10

97 of 100

TATA Cocktail Bar


Balderdash


Gensyn Bar

1958 Frederikshavn95 Points

Nu

5000 Odense 95 Points

Bar Deco


95–100 Points

90–94 Points

85–89 Points

80–84 Points

Rankings are

derived from the

total points

received. If tied,

the bar with the

higher drinks

rating takes

precedence.

Photos: Bar Nu/Helene Rosenfeldt, Ruby Group, Richard Iohs, Stephan Lemke, Goran Aziz, Bjorn Jeff Jacobsen

168 falstaff

dec–feb 2026

RATING

Drinks

Ambiance

Service

Selection

TOTAL

50 of 50

19 of 20

18 of 20

9 of 10

96 of 100

BEST HOTEL BAR

DENMARK

VICTORY, 25HOURS HOTEL

COPENHAGEN

BEST BARTENDER

DENMARK

HARRY BELL, BIRD

A cornerstone of Danish mixology, Harry Bell has shaped

Copenhagen’s cocktail scene with intelligence, warmth, and

quiet brilliance. From leading the team at Tata to co-founding

Bird Uptown, he’s elevated the craft through creativity

and calm authority. More than a bartender, Harry is a mentor,

an innovator, and an ambassador whose intuitive sense

of balance and impeccable technique continue to inspire

both guests and peers. birdcph.dk

Rising above Papirøen’s waterfront, Victory has quickly

become one of Copenhagen’s most magnetic bars.

With panoramic views of the harbor and a cosmopolitan

pulse, it embodies sophistication, spontaneity, and

a touch of playfulness. Whether sipping a craft cocktail

or a creamy pint of Guinness, guests are met with

genuine warmth and flawless service. Victory is more

than a hotel bar – it’s a lively meeting place where

design, comfort, and craftsmanship converge.

victorycph.dk

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

169

spirits / BAR GUIDE 2026 SWEDEN

BEST HOTEL BAR

SWEDEN

LE HIBOU, BANK

HOTEL STOCKHOLM

Perched above Stockholm, this rooftop

sanctuary at the Bank Hotel pairs intimate

elegance with an unmistakable sense of

occasion. Capturing sophistication and soul in

equal parts, guests sip meticulously balanced

cocktails while taking in panoramic vistas,

guided by a team whose artistry feels effortless.

Stylish yet welcoming, Le Hibou embodies

Scandinavian glamor at its most refined

– where design, flavor, and atmosphere unite

in perfect harmony. bankhotel.se

RATING

Drinks

Ambiance

Service

Selection

TOTAL

48 of 50

20 of 20

20 of 20

10 of 10

98 of 100

BEST AMERICAN

BAR, SWEDEN

CADIERBAREN,

GRAND HÔTEL

STOCKHOLM

Within the iconic Grand Hôtel, Cadierbaren

blends classic grandeur with contemporary

flair. Every element – from the

luminous interiors to the thoughtfully

drinks – reflects craftsmanship at its highest

level. Led by a worldclass team, it

delivers an experience that is both welcoming

and refined. Whether for an aperitif

or a nightcap, Cadierbaren remains

the beating heart of Stockholm’s cocktail

culture – a benchmark of true hospitality.

grandhotel.se

RATING

Drinks 50 of 50

Ambiance 20 of 20

Service 20 of 20

Selection 10 of 10

TOTAL 100 of 100

Photos: Gerard De Geer (2), Johannes Maxweller, David Thunander, Le Hibou, Grand Hotel Stockholm, Erik Andersson/Röda Huset (2)

170 falstaff

dec–feb 2026

TOP 10

C O C K TA I L BARS

SWEDEN

Cadierbaren

111 48 Stockholm 100 Points

Tjoget


A bar called Gemma


Le Hibou at Bank Hotel


BEST NEWCOMER

SWEDEN

EMBLA TRYGG

A BAR CALLED

GEMMA

Fearless, curious, and endlessly inventive,

Embla Trygg is redefining the next

generation of Swedish bartending. At

Gemma, she channels imagination into

precision, transforming bold ideas into

elegant, expressive drinks. Her intuitive

feel for flavour and form brings freshness

to every creation, while her drive

to experiment keeps her always one

step ahead. Dynamic and dedicated,

Embla is more than a rising talent –

she’s shaping the language of modern

mixology. abarcalledgemma.se

Röda Huset


Othilia


Stjärtilleriet


Bar Bruno

411 15 Gothenburg 96 Points

Gondolen


Bar Afterglow


95–100 Points

90–94 Points

85–89 Points

80–84 Points

Rankings are

derived from the

total points

received. If tied,

the bar with the

higher drinks

rating takes

precedence.

BARTENDER

OF THE YEAR

SWEDEN

ERIK ANDERSSON

RÖDA HUSET

With effortless grace and profound

understanding, Erik Andersson personifies

the modern Scandinavian bartender.

From Facit Bar and Cadierbaren to Röda

Huset, he brings refinement, creativity,

and warmth to every encounter. His ventures

– from bespoke glassware to his

own gin – reveal a mind that never stops

exploring. Andersson has become the

quiet authority and standard-bearer for

Swedish bartending. rodahuset.nu

dec–feb 2026

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171

spirits / BAR GUIDE 2026 NORWAY

TOP 10

C O C K TA I L BARS

NORWAY

BEST AMERICAN BAR

NORWAY

HIMKOK, OSLO

A trailblazer in Scandinavian mixology, Himkok

remains Norway’s most decorated bar – and for

good reason. Translating to “moonshine,” it offers

a complete experience: from its intimate bar and

buzzing courtyard to an on-site distillery and

barbershop. Minimalist design meets boundless

creativity, showcasing local ingredients with clarity

and purpose. Himkok is not just a destination

but an outlook – where innovation, precision, and

Nordic authenticity flow together seamlessly.

himkok.no

RATING

Drinks 50 of 50

Ambiance 20 of 20

Service 20 of 20

Selection 10 of 10

TOTAL 100 of 100

HIMKOK Storgata Destilleri

0184 Oslo 100 Points

Svanen

0154 Oslo 98 Points

Britannia bar

7011 Trondheim 97 Points

Pier 42

0154 Oslo 97 Points

Espier Bar

4008 Stavanger 95 Points

Den Grimme Ælling

0154 Oslo 93 Points

BEST NEWCOMER

NORWAY

EMELIE DAHLE

PJOLTER & PUNSJ

With her infectious positivity and radiant spirit,

Dahle brings both energy and warmth to her role

at Pjolter & Punsj in Stavanger. Originally comming

from the craft beer scene, she has ventured

into the cocktail world with fearless curiosity – and

is already making waves. Dahle has already won

the 2024 Femme Fatale competition, was nominated

for “Rising Star” at the Finnish Bartenders’

Choice Awards, and ranked among the Top 24

globally in the Jameson Black Barrel competition.

Defined by passion, humility, and a genuine love for

her craft, Dahle embodies the next generation of

Nordic bartenders – bright, bold, and full of heart.

facebook.com/pjolterogpunsj

Kombo

7011 Trondheim 93 Points

Nedre Lokka

0550 Oslo 92 Points

Pjolter & Punsj

4006 Stavanger 92 Points

Harlem Bar

0181 Oslo 91 Points

95–100 Points

90–94 Points

85–89 Points

80–84 Points

Rankings are

derived from the

total points

received. If tied,

the bar with the

higher drinks

rating takes

precedence.

Photos: Himkok, Emelie Dahle, Francisco Nogueira, Amerikalinjen Hotel, Svanen Oslo

172 falstaff

dec–feb 2026

RATING

Drinks

Ambiance

Service

Selection

TOTAL

48 of 50

20 of 20

19 of 20

10 of 10

97 of 100

BEST HOTEL BAR, NORWAY

PIER 42, AMERIKALINJEN HOTEL OSLO

Inside the historic Amerikalinjen Hotel, Pier 42 channels the glamor of Manhattan’s

golden age through a distinctly Nordic lens. Inspired by the original pier where most

Scandinavians first arrived in the U.S., it tells a story of connection and discovery. The

bar’s design pairs transatlantic elegance with Scandinavian restraint, while its themed

menus showcase remarkable creativity and care. Pier 42 stands as a testament

to hospitality with heart – polished, poetic, and unforgettable. amerikalinjen.com

BEST BARTENDER

NORWAY

CARMINE DI MARINO

SVANEN, OSLO

From Salerno to Oslo, Carmine Di Marino has built

a stellar reputation for dedication, warmth, and

skill. After gaining experience with Jamie Oliver’s

team in York and a sojourn in The Hague, he found

his home at Svanen. Since 2018, he has been a guiding

presence in Norway’s cocktail scene – admired

for his relentless curiosity and Italian generosity.

Equal parts precision and personality, Di Marino

exemplifies hospitality as both craft and calling.

svanenoslo.no

dec–feb 2026

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spirits / BAR GUIDE 2026 FINLAND

RATING

BEST AMERICAN

BAR, FINLAND

THE FIRM, HELSINKI

Stylish yet approachable, The Firm has

redefined Helsinki’s cocktail culture.

Sharing ownership with The Bull and

The Firm, it offers a cozy, cocktail-centric

escape where precision meets personality.

Behind the bar, a skilled team

conducts the evening with effortless

rhythm, blending fine craftsmanship

and genuine warmth. With its polished

design, inventive drinks, and inviting

energy, The Firm captures the essence

of contemporary Finnish hospitality –

confident, relaxed, and refreshingly

modern.

thebullandthefirm.fi

Drinks

Ambiance

Service

Selection

TOTAL

49 of 50

19 of 20

20 of 20

9 of 10

97 of 100

TOP 10

C O C K TA I L BARS

FINLAND

Bar Mate

00130 Helsinki 97 Points

The Firm


Kupoli


Chihuahua Julep


Bardem


Trillby & Chadwick


Runar


BEST NEWCOMER

FINLAND

EEMELI HÄYRYNEN

HOGOHUONE

A storyteller at heart, Eemeli Häyrynen

brings charisma, precision, and purpose

to Hogohuone. After helping launch

Kupoli, he now channels his artistic

background into creating memorable

experiences. Passionate about sustainability,

he has adopted zero-waste

methods and foraging with almost scholarly

enthusiasm, weaving nature into

every glass. Thoughtful, expressive, and

deeply rooted in Nordic culture, Häyrynen

is an emerging talent whose journey

is just beginning. hogohuone.com

Liberty or Death


Tiima

33100 Tampere 91 Points

Delorean

40100 Jyväskylä 90 Points

95–100 Points

90–94 Points

85–89 Points

80–84 Points

Rankings are

derived from the

total points

received. If tied,

the bar with the

higher drinks

rating takes

precedence.

Photos: Silja Minkkinen, Mikko Laitinen (2)

174 falstaff

dec–feb 2026

Seeking dreamers for timeless

moments of indulgence.

Gourmet retreat in South Tyrol.

alpentesitin.it

spirits / BAR GUIDE 2026 FINLAND

BEST BARTENDER

FINLAND

MIKA AMMUNÉT, BAR MATE

A visionary of Finnish mixology, Mika Ammunét continues

to push the boundaries of flavor and sustainability.

After winning World Class Finland 2021 and placing

sixth globally, he founded Bar Mate, pioneering draft

carbonated cocktails and a low-waste ethos. His approach

fuses technical mastery with an inventive flair, crafting

drinks that are both refined and novel. Warm, curious,

and endlessly creative, Ammunét has become a

defining voice in Finland’s evolving cocktail landscape.

barmate.fi

RATING

RATING

Drinks

Ambiance

Service

Selection

TOTAL

49 of 50

19 of 20

20 of 20

9 of 10

97 of 100

BEST HOTEL BAR, FINLAND

KUPOLI, NH COLLECTION HELSINKI

GRAND HANSA

Crowning the NH Collection Helsinki Grand Hansa Hotel, Kupoli

dazzles with architectural grace and sweeping skyline views. Inside

its majestic dome, Nordic refinement meets international flair in an

atmosphere of serene sophistication. Every cocktail tells a story of

place – celebrating northern ingredients with meticulous attention to

detail. From concept to service, Kupoli is the height of Finnish elegance:

poised, luminous, and unforgettable. kupolibar.com/fi

Drinks

Ambiance

Service

Selection

TOTAL

49 of 50

19 of 20

19 of 20

9 of 10

96 von 100

Photos: Henri Hyokyvirta, Timo Jalkanen, NH Collection Helsinki Grand Hansa (2)


Willkommen

im Norden, Falstaff!

År 2007 lanserades det första vinet från den österrikiska familjefirman

Weingut Leth i Sverige, och vi är nu glada att få välkomna deras

landsmän på Falstaff till Norden!

Leth Grüner Veltliner Familien Reserve är, som namnet antyder, ett av

familjens prestigeviner. Det görs av ekologiskt odlade druvor från deras

egna odlingar, varsamt utvalda och skördade för hand.

Resultatet blir ett friskt och smakrikt vin med toner av vitpeppar, päron

och grapefrukt. Ett utmärkt matvin till fisk och skaldjur. Eller varför

inte till en krispig wienerschnitzel – en österrikisk klassiker!

”Gott till grillad sparris”

EXPRESSEN 12/6 2025

”Ett mycket bra och mångsidigt matvin”

SMÅLANDSPOSTEN 10/5 2025

129 kr

2024 LETH GRÜNER VELTLINER

FAMILIEN RESERVE

VARUNR. 76570. 13% VOL.

WWW.DOMAINEWINES.SE

Varannan förare som

omkommer i singelolyckor i

trafiken är alkoholpåverkad.

spirits/ WHISKY

HÅVE

ANØTHER!

For years, the spirits world has been quite dependent on grain from the

far North. But it took quite a while (and some legal adjustments) for this

malty treasure to find its way into Scandinavian distilleries. Now they

are ready to defend their new style of Single Malt.

TEXT ROLAND GRAF

Photo: Copenhagen Distillery


The main assets of the

Copenhagen Distillery are its

small and peculiar casks – a lot

of them made from Hungarian

Oak. Their impact is a roasted and

deep-rooted taste.

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

179

spirits/ WHISKY

Dairy distillery: The Kyro

team makes whisky

(among other spirits) where

once yoghurt was made.

When

Europe’s

bar scene

discovered

American

Rye Whiskey as one of the

mainstays of pre-prohibition tippling

– the Golden Age of cocktails – few were

aware, that they were, in fact, re-importing

an old friend. A lot of these U.S. bottlings

simply would not exist if not for Scandinavian

grain in their mash. In Kentucky,

distillers are particularly keen on Finnish

rye malt (e.g. “Viking” from Lahti),

whereas craft distillers appreciate the fact

that Nordic imports are not genetically

modified – as a lot of American grain is.

“If this quality is so high in demand, why

don’t we use the rye in Finland?” Kai

Kilpinen asked himself. He promptly

founded the Helsinki Distillery Company

in 2014 – the first new distillery in the

Finnish capital for over a century – and

today exports his whisky as far as Japan.

The Kyrö distillery is even closer to the

Arctic Circle, operating out of a former

yoghurt factory since 2020. Their steady

growth saw their grain consumption go

from 20 tons to 700 tons in just five years.

And it’s no coincidence that Kyrö also uses

rye as their sole grain source.

Finnish Rye. famous

ruisreikäleipä (rye bread) in

liquid form.

THE MALT FROM THE COLD

Rye is very resilient and mostly grown as a

winter crop: sown at the end of September,

it battles through winters that can reach

-28 degrees and can thrive even in northern

Finland. But its main selling point is

another: from a distiller‘s perspective, rye

produces the best results when grown in

cold regions, as the starch content is

correspondingly low and the mash “gelatinizes”

less in the still. And while that would

be a problem for bakers, distilleries around

the world love grain from the “rye belt” of

Denmark, Sweden and Finland.

Connoisseurs have long been aware of

Nordic rye’s remarkable qualities, which

greatly benefited exports. And once Distill

Ventures, the innovation subsidiary of

beverage giant Diageo, got involved, it did

not take long for Denmark’s Stauning


Unusual casks shape the taste of

Swedish distillery Agitator.

rooted in Danish tradition”

says founder Henrik Brinks

in Copenhagen’s Amager

Øst district. Back in 2020,

they bottled their first whisky in

a klukflaske – a collector’s item

reminiscent of traditional Danish

containers. 100% organic barley was used

and its Danish character was enhanced by

smoking the Hungarian oak barrels – not

the malt! – with beech wood fires. This

technique was inspired by the smokehouses

of Bornholm, where they usually cure

salmon, mackerel or mussels.

Over in Sweden’s distilleries, giving the

whiskey a genuinely Scandinavian touch

also comes down to the choice of barrel.

“We gladly challenge convention because

we are convinced that whisky can be made

in new exciting ways,” explains Oskar

Bruno, founder and master distiller at

Agitator in Arboga, part of Västmanland

province. “Rök”, the Swedish word for

<

Photos: Kryö Distillery, Veera Kuiala, Fabrik ov, Agitator (2), Copenhagen Distillery (2)

Whisky to become a global player.

Even after the seed money from

the world’s largest spirits

company dried up earlier this

year, Stauning is set to continue

its path – at least in Europe, as

U.S. exports are currently

mostly cut off. To mark their

20th anniversary, they’ve even

introduced a new bottle design: “Our

new look honors classical whisky cues

while reflecting our future – thoughtful,

design-forward and defiantly Danish”, says

co-founder Alex Munch almost defiantly.

After all, what started as the crazy goal of

nine friends in Jutland to distill maybe

three or four hundred liters of whiskey

became is now “one of the world’s most

acclaimed New World whisky producers”.

STATEMENT IN A KLUKFLASKE

While Stauning is the largest producer in

Denmark, it is by no means the only one.

The capital is no stranger to malt whisky in

striking bottles either, with the Copenhagen

Distillery’s cube-shaped bottles an iconic

sight ever since the Nordic whisky trend

started. “All our experiments must be

Smaller ageing vessels offer

a deeper flavor for the

bottlings of Copenhagen

Distillery.

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

181

spirits/ WHISKY

The Danish whisky clique Stauning brought

their fondness for floor-malted rye to the world.

Sweden’s 1995 accession to

the EU broke the state

monopoly on distilling; similar

regulations hindered Finnish whisky

for decades. But Nordic distillers soon

found their own way, gaining well-earned

confidence. Which was clearly on display

when 14 European distilleries protested a

trade agreement with Canada which

banned the use of the word “rye” on

whisky labels coming from Europe: Danish

distillers like Stauning, Reinhart and Thy

signed a resolution together with their

Finnish fellows Kyrö and Helsinki Distilling

as well as the Swedish whisky houses Spirit

of Hven, Norrtälje Bränneri and Agitator.

“People in other markets don’t want

Danish whisky to taste like Scotch whisky”,

stresses Axel Munch of Stauning.

To emphasize what sets them apart, he

proudly had “R.Y.E.” printed on the new

labels – using capital letters as a strong

confident statement from a young,

but undefeated spirit category from the

Nordics!

<

<

“smoke” features prominently

on their label, the phenolic taste

itself coming from the former Islay

whisky casks used for ageing. Even

more distinct is their “Chestnut

Cask” single malt, named after the

wood used for maturing. Agitator

started exporting to Germany last year,

following the footsteps of another storied

collegue from the Valbo area: Mackymra,

which has been distilling with local

ingredients like peat from nearby Österfärnebo,

since 1999.

IN RYE WE TRUST

Their classic recipe, based on malted

barley, made Mackmyra popular among

hard rock fans with bottlings labeled

Motörhead or Scorpions. Unfortunately,

Lennart Hero, the principal owner, passed

away this year at the age of 76, but his

brainchild carries on with a broad portfolio

and Glenn Ström, one of the pioneers of

Scandic whisky, as the new CEO.

The last few decades have been quite a

wild ride for very young Nordic spirits

scene – it only started taking off once

Despite Finnish alcohol

regulations, the Helsinki

Distillery pursues its dream

of making whisky out of

abundant regional grains.

Photos: The Stauning (2), Helsinki Disitillery (2)


CULINARY DELIGHTS AWAIT.

WITH AWARD-WINNING CUISINE AND WINE TREASURES.

AT AN ALTITUDE OF 1.750 TO 2.000 METRES.

Legendary

Pleasure

BURGHOTEL-LECH.COM

LECH AM ARLBERG

spirits / BEST OF NORDIC WHISKEY

BEST OF

NORDIC WHISKEY

95

94

92

THY PX & OLOROSO

49.5 % vol.

Gyrup, Denmark

The nose opens with rich aromas of

dark chocolate, dried figs, gentle

smoke and raisins, anchored by roasted

barley and the scent of freshly

brewed coffee. On the palate, soft

brown sugar melts into apricot,

honey and a touch of vanilla, creating

a smooth texture. The whisky

unfolds with warmth and layered

complexity, each note revealing

depth, balance and quiet elegance.

thy-whisky.dk, €100

TEERENPELI SINGLE MALT 10 Y

43 % vol.

Lahti, Finland

Golden hue, opens with aromas of

malted biscuits, cloudy apple juice,

toffee, butter and a touch of fennel.

The palate reveals sweet pineapple,

cashew cream, vanilla and a trace of

peat. Its oily texture carries notes of

oak, zesty fruit and sweet malt. A

hint of black pepper leads to a medium-long,

gently dry finish with

subtle herbal bitterness and a graceful

balance.

teerenpelidistillery.com, €125

AGITATOR THE SWEDISH MALT

43 % vol.

Arboga, Sweden

An inviting nose with a touch of

sooty smokiness, distinctly different

from traditional Scotch styles!

Beneath the veil of smoke you’ll find

red apples, apricots, nuts, and

a malty taste. Lingering flavors of

hard spices and apple pie remain –

long after the last sip.

agitatordistillery.com

€32.58

95

93

91

HIGH COAST ALBA II

49.7 % vol.

Bjärtrå, Sweden

Aromas of toffee and butterscotch

mingle with malty richness. Pear

adds freshness to the dried fruit. On

the palate, maple syrup merges

with vanilla fudge and soft chocolate,

lifted by orange nougat. The

sweetness remains balanced, with

dessert-like notes harmonising with

vibrant malt and fruit.

highcoastwhisky.se, €72.66

AURORA SPIRIT BIVROST

YGGDRASIL

46.0 % vol.

Lyngen, Norway

This whisky displays refined complexity

and a velvety mouthfeel,

opening with aromas of dried fruits,

orange blossom, roasted nuts and a

wisp of bonfire smoke. The nose

recalls an old Spanish bodega, while

the palate reveals toasted oak,

caramelised mandarin and eucalyptus,

framed by soft, elegant peat.

bivrost.com, €850

STAUNING R.Y.E

48 % vol.

Skjern, Denmark

Almost radiating ember colour in

the glass – nice! Sawdust and nuts

show a quite young whisky influenced

by a lot of wood spiciness (think

of suede leather, green hazelnuts

and elderwood). Creamy, slightly

sweet and caramel-like on the

palate. A beginner’s dram, based on

inviting, confectionary accords.

stauningwhisky.com

€66.29

94

92

91

COPENHAGEN DISTILLERY RAW

59.7 % vol.

Copenhagen, Denmark

Confectionary in a bottle! Reminiscences

of brownies, marzipan

rolls and mousse au chocolat with

sour cherries, but also dried pear.

Tamarind complexity in a

sweet-and-sour style. If you

break down the ABV, you are

regaled with a plethora of

nutty chocolate notes.

For connoisseurs!

copenhagendistillery.com

€200

COPENHAGEN DISTILLERY RARE

49.7 % vol.

Copenhagen, Denmark

Beautiful color! Orange hues shining

through golden brown. An attractive

nose of papaya and orange, on top

of a core of molten dark chocolate.

A creamy film covers your

palate, chocolate and cocoa

make up most of its character

– there is a nice not of sweet

treacle in the finish.


€320

MACKMYRA SVENSK EK

46.2 % vol.

Gävle, Sweden

Nice amber color, combined with all

the spices found in Christmas gingerbread,

including star anise,

cloves and cinnamon. Sweet scents

of plum wine and Pineau de Charente

make you curious. The aromas

extend to the palate, enhanced by

oak spice, which makes up most of

the finish.

mackmyra.se

€52.78

<

Photos: provided


spirits / AKVAVIT

Spirit

of the

North

Aquavit is more than a drink – it’s the liquid heart of

Nordic drinking culture, distilled from centuries of history,

tradition, and a proud sense of place.

TEXT SUNE URTH

Photos: domnitsky/Magnus Cramer Images/Shutterstock


dec–feb 2026

falstaff

187

To understand aquavit is to

understand Scandinavia. Like

Scotch, Bourbon, or Ouzo, it’s

one of those drinks inextricably

linked to its place of origin –

Just a sip of its golden-hued, spicy cheer is

enough to transport you to the the bustling

smørrebrød tables of Copenhagen, or a

remote winter fjord in Norway. Available

in every bar and at every wedding from

Falster to Svalbard, aquavit is as Nordic as

the aurora borealis.

FROM THE MONASTERY

TO THE BAR

The saga begins not in a tavern, but in the

monastery. Centuries before aquavit was

first created, its key botanicals – caraway

and dill – were mainstays in Norse herb

plots and monastic gardens, used for

healing, cooking, and preserving food. It

was the art of distillation, which arrived in

Scandinavia around the 13th century, that

provided the catalyst: Monks and alchemists

began experimenting, steeping these

native, familiar herbs in potent aqua vitae

(Latin for “water of life”) to make medicinal

tonics more palatable.

This was the genesis of aquavit‘s basic

character. The later rise of the Hanseatic

League – a loose confederation of German

city-states that dominated northern trade

– brought new spices like cumin, anise,

Centuries before aquavit was first created, its

key botanicals – caraway and dill – were

mainstays in Norse erb plots and

monastic gardens.

AQUAVIT BECAME

MORE THAN

A SPIRIT – IT BECAME

A SHARED RITUAL.

EVERY CELEBRATION,

FROM MIDSUMMER

TO CHRISTMAS.

Pickled herring on rye, a

staple of the Scandinavian

table. Best enjoyed with

chilled aquavit and good

company.

and fennel that allowed

for more complex

mixtures. By 1531, the

spirit was defined

enough to be mentioned

in a historic letter from

Danish emissary Eske Bille

to Olav Engelbrektsson,

Archbishop of Trondheim. He

wrote: “I am sending you some

water with the bearer of this letter.

It is called Aqua Vite and is a help for

all sorts of illnesses which a man may have

both internally and externally.”

For generations, the spirit’s very existence

was locked in a moral and practical

struggle known as the “bread or brandy”

debate. Distillation was dangerously

inefficient, and stills consumed the same

barley and rye that could bake dozens of

loaves of bread. During the famines that

frequently scarred the region, authorities

imposed total bans on distillation, prioritizing

sustenance over spirit. This conflict

between survival and intoxication is a

foundational, sombre chapter in aquavit‘s

past.

The 19th century democratized the spirit,

thanks to an agricultural revolution. The

arrival of the potato – a hardy, high-yield

crop that can grow even in poor soil –

resolved the age-old ethical dilemma by

ending food shortages; and aquavit had a

new, abundant base that finally made it a

true drink of the people.

From that point on, aquavit became

more than a spirit – it became a shared

ritual. Every celebration, from Midsummer

to Christmas, from weddings to wakes,

found its rhythm in the clink of small

glasses and a chorus of song. It is the toast

that marks the moment, the bridge between

food and friendship, the spark that binds

generations. To drink aquavit is to take

part in a living tradition that continues to

define the Nordic sense of togetherness.

Today Aquavit, in all it’s spellings, sits at

the heart of Scandinavian culinary culture

as companion, chaser, avec or amuse

bouche. Its intricate relationship with

Nordic cuisine has shaped the spirit as well

as the food for centuries. In recent years

cocktail bars have discovered the spirit,

and a whole new school of Scandinavian

mixology has seen the light of day.


2

Crown dill brings both freshness and depth to

aquavit – an herb that defines the spirit as much

as it decorates the Scandinavian table.

Photos: olko1975/BearFotos/ AMV_80/Shutterstock, Rostyslav/Adobe Stock

A TALE OF THREE GLASSES

Across the region, the core flavoring of

caraway and dill remains, but its execution

is wonderfully varied.

In Denmark, aquavit is the life of the

party. Typically clear, crisp, and dry, it’s

designed to be enjoyed as ice-cold shots

alongside pickled herring and open-faced

sandwiches. While classics like Aalborg

reign, a new generation of distillers is

refining the traditional formula. Copenhagen

Distillery’s Dill & Anise Aquavit is a

standout – a vibrant, aromatic craft

expression that showcases a modern,

culinary approach to the classic profile.

In Norway, aquavit is a contemplative

sip. Legally defined by its Protected

Geographical Indication (PGI), Norsk

Akevitt must be matured in small oak

casks, a rule that codifies a centuries-old

tradition. The result is a fuller-bodied,

amber spirit, where the spices are mellowed

with notes of vanilla and sherry from

the wood. It is sipped slowly at

room temperature, and is an

essential companion to Christmas

dishes like ribbe and pinnekjøtt. The

famous Linie Aquavit, which travels the

world in oak casks crossing the equator, is

the pinnacle of this aging tradition.

In Sweden, aquavit’s character changes

with the season, from dill-forward snaps

for Midsummer to a spicier variety for

August crayfish parties. Brands like O.P.

IN DENMARK, AQUAVIT

IS THE LIFE OF

THE PARTY. TYPICALLY

CLEAR, CRISP, AND

DRY, IT’S DESIGNED

TO BE ENJOYED AS ICE-

COLD SHOTS.

Anderson and Skåne offer

a spectrum of styles, from

clear and anise-heavy to lightly

aged and sweet.

THE LAW OF THE LAND

The spirit’s identity is now fiercely protected.

EU law dictates that aquavit must be

flavored predominantly with caraway and/

or dill. But Norway’s recent PGI status

creates a fascinating distinction: It mandates

that true Norsk Akevitt must be produced

and matured in Norway, in small oak casks,

preserving its distinct local character.

From a medieval herbal remedy distilled

by alchemists to a favorite forged by

scarcity to a globally protected trademark,

aquavit’s journey is a reflection of the

North itself: resilient, adaptable, and rich

in heritage. To raise a glass is to taste not

just caraway and oak, but centuries of

history, and the triumph of life over

hardship. Skål!

<

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

189

spirits / BEST OF AKVAVIT

BEST OF

AKVAVIT

94

92

92

NORRTÄLJE BRÄNNERI DILL

RÖNNBÄR SNAPS

37.5 % vol.

Söderby, Sweden

Expressive type – pure dill (like crayfish

broth) meets fruity notes of raspberry

and even yuzu in an exotic,

citric manner. Nice and easy on the

palate, building up in flavor as you

drink. The finish is dill again – quite

your Swedish summer sipper!

norrtaljebranneri.se

€18.10

STOCKHOLMS BRÄNNERI

AKVAVIT

45 % vol.

Stockholm, Sweden

Showing a very clear nose of dill,

with hints of camomile. There is a

hint of rooibos tea in the nose.

Subtle, these notes also turn up on

the palate. Its dry character shows

more pine and green herbs – making

it a very elegant option.

stockholmsbranneri.com

€35.20

SKREA BACKE

MARSTEN AKVAVIT

40 % vol.

Falkenberg, Sweden

Slightly golden hue and an aroma

that leans heavily toward fresh

lemon (albedo and peel), cedar and

well-tempered caraway. Incredibly

approachable, with an almost

caramel-like taste (“Fox”candy) at

first, continuing with a more astringent

finish of coriander seed and

dried raisins.

skreabackedestilleri.com

€33.54

94

92

91

SKREA BACKE

AKVAVIT

38 % vol.

Falkenberg, Sweden

Two faces in one Akvavit! Maritime

hints in the nose, reminiscent of nori

seaweed. The other aromatic part is

pure fruit – think raspberry and

umeboshi. A bit of liquorice

(“lakrids”) on the first taste combines

with a creamy sensation and a

very long lasting finale with pepper

and dill front and center.

skreabackedestilleri.com

€26.28

KATTILA AKVAVIT

40 % vol.

Espoo, Finland

A lot of aromas at first: lemon, caraway

and christmas spices like

cloves and allspice. Super mellow,

with the focus really on citrus and

warm spices. On the palate, the

citrus turns into lemon curd with

more of a coriander and cardamom

feel. There is also a hint of oak

maturation to round off the finish. A

very warming akvavit for yuletide.

kattilalaaksontislaamo.com

€42.74

COPENHAGEN DISTILLERY DILL

ANISE

41 % vol.

Copenhagen, Denmark

Flowery and creamy in the nose –

hints of poppy, dill blossoms and

aniseed cookies. Quite fruity on the

palate at first, citrus oil (kumquat

and mandarine) and whiffs of red

berries. Very smooth option for

aquavit novices.


€40

93

92

89

SATURNUS PIRATENS AKVAVIT

40 % vol.

Malmö, Sweden

Its noble hue of fair gold sets the

tone: Beautiful aromas of dill seed

resting on a cushion of yellow fruits

like grapefruit and Gallia melon.

Very interesting! The taste is an inviting

mix of caramel, dried fruit and a

cataract of carraway. The finish has

even more cumin than carraway. “A

beautiful pairing for dishes like

Humus or Shakshuka.”

saturnus.se

€25.37

COPENHAGEN DISTILLERY

LONGPEPPER

41 % vol.

Copenhagen, Denmark

A potpourri of dried herbs (dill),

earthy notes like chanterelle mushrooms,

a slight juniper-like gin vibe.

The aroma is quite dry and musklike.

Creamy mouthfeel; almost like

an Espresso Martini made with

robusta beans, until the pepper

kicks in. “Hot” and lasting character

– “Try a Red Snapper with it”!


€40

SATURNUS SALTÖ AKVAVIT

38 % vol.

Malmö, Sweden

Surprise, surprise! An almost hoppy

aroma makes for a curious note,

followed by a touch/hint of fennel

seed. Well rounded and slightly

chocolaty at first – then the caraway

kicks almost explosively to leave an

overwhelming impression, lasting

long after the last drop.

saturnus.se

€16.28

<

Photos: provided


GROSSARLER HOF

ALPINE RENDEZVOUS

Traditional and elegant, the Grossarler Hof is a wildly romantic retreat

for unforgettable moments amid the natural beauty of the Salzburg region.


Golden light, the clear contours of

the mountains against the blue

sky, and the scents of nature –

the tranquil Grossarl Valley is

truly magical place in autumn, its power

felt with every breath of clear mountain air.

In the middle of it all you’ll find the

Grossarler Hof, part of the Small Luxury

Hotels of the World – an alpine gem and

elegant retreat that channels the charm of

days gone by. A superior hotel located right

next to the Grossarl cable cars, it’s the ideal

starting point for outdoor adventures.

Inside, good taste and indulgence are celebrated

in the broadest sense – from the

contemporary alpine chic that defines the

interiors to the first-class cuisine sourced

from regional ingredients. In the Jagastub’n

restaurant, guests enjoy fine dining of the

highest standard, inspired by the seasons

and accompanied by exquisite wines from

the hotel’s own cellar.

To prepare body and mind for winter

and recharge your batteries, the Erlenreich

Relax & SPA offers saunas, whirlpools, and

soothing treatments for gentle relaxation

and regeneration. Those who can’t wait to

return can look forward to an exquisite

winter getaway: The special »4=3 Ski &

Wellness Shortbreak« offer grants the very

best outdoor activities, cuisine, and wellness

– and a free night’s stay.

INFO

Grossarler Hof

Unterbergstraße 76, A-5611 Großarl

grossarlerhof.at

dec–feb 2026

falstaff 191

Editor in Chief

for Falstaff Nordics

TOVE OSKARSSON

HENCKEL

GOURMET

FRANTZÉN

BRINGS

THE FIRE HOME

Michelin-starred chef Björn Frantzén,

named Falstaff Restaurant Personality

of the Year 2026 in Sweden, is opening

a contemporary grillhouse in central Stockholm

early next year. This homecoming is the latest

step following his global success, which saw the

Frantzén group operate three three-Michelin-star

restaurants worldwide. Frantzén’s new project

promises flame-broiled cuisine, a raw bar, and a

lively late-night atmosphere with a bold, Asiaand

North America-inspired concept he calls “a

modern and innovative twist on the classic grill”.

frantzengroup.com

TEMPLE OF TASTE

A creative playground turned temple

of taste, Noma Projects has unveiled a

new Flavor Shop in the greenhouse

behind its mother restaurant in

Copenhagen. A showcase for two

decades of innovation, the shelves

brim with all-time experimental

favorites from the House of Noma, like

mushroom garum and pumpkin seed

pralines. Guests can linger over tea or

coffee by Noma Coffee, drinking in the

spirit of experimentation. The shop

will remain open year-round, even

during Noma’s residency in

Los Angeles, California.

noma.dk

FILLED WITH FLAVOR

Award-winning Danish chocolatier Mikkel

Friis-Holm has expanded his repertoire with

chocolate bars — with gourmet flavors ranging

from Stauning Whisky, Herslev Beers, and dried

first-rate soy sauce from Yuasa in Japan’s

Wakayama Prefecture. friisholmchokolade.dk


NEWS

RE-NAA IGNITES THE

NORDIC DINING STAGE

After gaining three stars in the Michelin

Guide and 100 Falstaff Points, Re-naa in

Stavanger, Norway, has earned yet another

accolade: Under the guidance of chef

Sven-Erik Renaa, the restaurant has been

inducted into this year’s Les Grandes

Tables du Monde. Since 1954, Les

Grandes Tables du Monde has listed the

very best in the world of gastronomy,

those rarified establishments that exemplify

true hospitality, elevate cuisine to its

highest form, and create unforgettable

experiences. restaurantrenaa.no

AI WATER SOLUTION

Nordaq, a global leader in sustainable

filtered water solutions for hotels and

restaurants, has launched its first AIpowered

system for producing bottled

drinking water. It’s a major step in sustainable

hydration, with the Mandarin

Oriental Palace Lucerne becoming the

first property to implement it.

nordaq.com

ETT HEM SHINES BRIGHTLY

Photos: Jesper Rais, Noma Projects, Kristian Pohl/Zap, provided

A DANISH ICON

Danish chef Rasmus Munk of Copenhagen’s

Alchemist has made history by being named

the Best Chef in the World again at the 2025

Best Chef Awards, defending his title from

2024. First held in 2015, the awards honor

chefs showing exceptional creativity, innovation,

and excellence. Munk said he hopes to

inspire young chefs to view gastronomy as a

holistic, artistic language that sparks dialogue

and change. With his scientific approach

and bold vision, he continues to redefine

21st-century dining through art, sustainability,

and innovation. thebestchefawards.com

The Boutique hotel Ett hem in Stockholm

has enjoyed a stellar year: It’s earned a

Michelin Key, came in at #89 on The

World’s 50 Best Hotels list as the only

Nordic entrant to place, and received 93

points and three forks from the Falstaff

Nordics Restaurant Guide. Part of the

Small Luxury Hotels of the World, Ett hem

prides itself on its interior, feeling more like

a tasteful home than a hotel. etthem.se

DUAL-AGED DANISH CHEESES

Same same, but different: Arla Unika

latest cheese is available in two forms –

Stalddreng and Hyrden. Both come from

Tistrup Mejeri and are made from cow’s

and goat’s milk: Stalddreng matures for

8 weeks, Hyrden for 20. Available at

Arla Unika stores in Copenhagen and

Stockholm. arlaunika.com

HOBO OSLO’S KITCHEN VISION

Celebrated Swedish pastry chef Sebastian

Pettersson is the Culinary Director at

the newly opened Hobo Hotel in Oslo. His

mission: To embrace local culinary treasures

through foraging, fermenting, and

preserving the rich flavors found near

Norway’s capital. hobohotel.no

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

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gourmet / GAME CHANGER

Photos: The Grupo Leo Project (2)


LEONOR ESPINOSA:

THE NEW TASTE

OF TRADITION

Colombian chef Leonor Espinosa uses indigenous ingredients, flavors and techniques

as a force for social and how her country’s complex history has shaped its culinary

traditions – and continues to tell its story, one dish at a time.

TEXT TOVE OSKARSSON HENCKEL

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

195


The sun blazes from a clear blue

sky over San Luis de Sincé in

northeastern Colombia, the

hot, humid air enveloping the

lush landscape. A minibus

comes to a halt in the town square, and out

steps one of the small town’s most famous

daughters: Leonor Espinosa, champion of

Colombian cuisine and head chef of

Bogotá’s Leo.

As she enters a modest house on Carrera

10 – once the home of her grandparents – it

becomes evident why Espinosa is so deeply

rooted in her heritage. The colonial-style

interior is like something out of a historical

novel: airy and furnished mainly with dark

wood, with images of saints, the Virgin

Mary, and Christ on the cross featuring

prominently on the whitewashed walls.

Espinosa’s eyes well up as she shares

memories of her mother and grandmother

often scolding her for her playful mischief:

“Once, I put chili powder in my grandmother’s

bed because I was angry with her,”

Espinosa recalls, smiling.

Stepping into the small backyard, a

wooden shed houses a modest kitchen, while

a dark wooden rocking chair rests under

a sunshade. Here, her grandmother would

oversee the household, welcoming neigh-

I

WANTED TO CARVE

MY OWN PATH BY

HIGHLIGHTING

COLOMBIAN CUISINE

WITH AN INNOVATIVE

PERSPECTIVE.

AtSala de Laura, sommelier Laura Hernández

Espinosa and chef Leonor Espinosa reinterpret

Colombia’s biodiversity through liquid creations

and inventive cuisine.

bors, friends, and extended family for

meals. Young Leonor would often deliver

small treats to other families, a habit that

would shape her understanding of community

and generosity. “At first, I felt a little

embarrassed handing out food,” she says.

“But it was a wonderful way to meet

people, hear their stories, and learn their

customs. These experiences have inspired

my cooking ever since.”

The meals served at the Espinosa

household evoked nostalgia even then:

empanadas, bollos de mazorca, and rice

wrapped in banana leaves. Breakfasts

featured dried meats sautéed with onions

and tomatoes and served with yucca. “My

grandmother’s generosity permeated the

home. It wasn’t why I became a chef, but

the kitchen was a special place where I

could cook, laugh, or cry,” Espinosa

reflects.

FROM CORPORATE TO CULINARY

Despite an early appreciation for food,

Espinosa initially pursued a conventional

career at an advertising agency. However,

the draw of cooking proved irresistible.

“For me, food was a calling. Being a chef in

Colombia wasn’t respected, and my family

thought I was still a naive and impulsive

girl without stability. How

could I leave a secure job for

something I had no formal

training in?”

Her first venture, a Thai

restaurant, eventually failed.

Yet Espinosa’s determination

remained unshaken.

When her daughter Laura

started university, the family

relocated to Bogotá, where she

became a head chef and quickly

earned recognition with her neo-traditionalist

approach: “I wanted to carve

my own path by highlighting Colombian

cuisine with an innovative perspective –

while preserving its essence and traditions.”

In 2005, Espinosa opened Restaurant

Leo – an affectionate nickname of hers – in

central Bogotá, right between the National

Museum and the bullring. Sourcing

ingredients from local craft producers to

honor Colombian heritage, Leo swiftly

became a favorite among the country’s

political, cultural, and gastronomic elites

– and Espinosa became a celebrity.


By 2007, Leonor had founded the

Funleo Foundation, one of the first

initiatives in Latin America to use gastronomy

to drive social and environmental

change. With Espinosa’s daughter, Laura,

as its head, Funleo works closely with

small producers, rural communities, and

indigenous groups to preserve traditional

food and promote sustainable practices.

Approximately $70,000 per year is

invested directly into these local businesses,

who in turn supply around 70%

of Restaurant Leo’s ingredients. “We cover

transport, training and have created a

network of local producers. Growth is

challenging due to the training and

documentation required, but our dream is

for more restaurants to join,” Espinosa

explains.

<

Photos: The Grupo Leo Project (5)

ROOTED IN THE LAND

Traveling through rural Colombia is both

dramatic and revealing, as much about

discovering its people as it is about seeing

the sights. The roads are poor, requiring

the minibus to swerve between enormous

potholes. At a local cultural center,

traditional dishes like bollos, chica

morada, and homemade herbal schnapps

are served – emblematic favorites still

popular today. Traditional dances,

reminiscent of tango but softer and more

fluid, convey deeper social meanings – in

courtship, men followed the woman’s lead,

hinting at Colombia’s past as a matriarchal

society. Conversations frequently turn to

the guerrilla war that shaped Colombia for

half a century. Although a peace agreement

with the Marxist militia FARC was signed

in 2016, the violence left deep societal

scars. “The risk of kidnapping was so high

that it was impossible to travel in the

country. My parents and grandparents

could not meet. The only way to get there

was to be smuggled,” Espinosa remembers.

You can see how the conflict shaped

Colombia first hand at Restaurante Donde

Mingo in Nueva Granada, where the

town’s unique silent plays are the main

attraction: Protected as UNESCO intangible

cultural heritage, residents act out

memories without words. “In this town,

everyone becomes an actor for a week

each year,” Espinosa explains. “It is like a

painting, remembering the guerrilla war,

when silence was a way to survive.”

Leonor Espinosa’s

cuisine bridges

Colombia’s ancestral

knowledge with modern

culinary creativity.

T

HE MEALS

SEVERD AT THE

HOUSEHOLD EVOKED

NOSTALGIA. BOLLOS DE

MAZORCA, EMPANADAS,

AND RICE WRAPPED IN

BANANA LEAVES.

HEART OF HERITAGE

The journey continues along battered roads

to Magangué, a port on the Magdalena

River. Luggage is secured to a taxi boat, and

we set off for Sucre Sabe Diferente,

accessible only by water.

As the sun sets, high waters cover the

lowest trees, leaving only their crowns

visible. After ninety minutes, the boat glides

into a small port, a scene reminiscent of a

film set. Colorful colonial houses line the

square, streetlamps illuminate the plaza,

and stray dogs wander aimlessly. Lanterns

in front of local restaurants

cast a warm, inviting glow,

motorbikes cluster outside Hotel Venecia,

and Club Sucre, a former billiard hall and

local hangout, beckons as our next destination.

Espinosa relaxes amidst the dark,

cellar-like venue, lined with plastic chairs

and crates of beer, a poster of two bikini-clad

women behind the bar.

Once a flourishing riverside town with

two small airfields, seasonal downpours

would regularly inundate Sucre Sabe

Diferente’s streets, shaping both the rhythm

of life and the imagination of its inhabitants.

It was here that Gabriel García

Márquez, Colombia’s Nobel Prize–winning

author, spent part of his youth. Moving

here as a teenager in 1941 after his father, a

homeopath, first tried unsuccessfully to

open a pharmacy in nearby San Luis de

Sincé, the young García Márquez absorbed

the sights, characters, and stories that

would later inspire many of his novels. It

was also here that he met Mercedes

Barcha, who would become his wife; he

<

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

197


<

was fourteen and she nine at the time.

The town’s narrow alleys and riverbanks

still evoke tales of passion and tragedy –

including the story of a friend’s fatal

stabbing, which inspired Chronicle of a

Death Foretold – as well as the house

where Barcha grew up. These places and

memories, suspended in time, reveal how

deeply the town’s people and landscapes

became woven into the writer’s magical

realist world.

The village holds a special place in

Espinosa’s heart. She runs the Sabe

Diferente project here, which promotes

local cuisine and ingredients while uplifting

the community. Having spent much of her

childhood with her grandparents in the

area, the initiative is deeply personal to her.

“It’s not always about where you’re born,

but what shapes your perspective on life.

We often came here with all the cousins,

but I don’t think anyone enjoyed Sucre

Sabe Diferente as much as I did. Now it

feels as though the town has stopped in

time. Its biodiversity and cultural richness

are incredible, yet, like many other small

Colombian towns, no one is making the

Nueva Granada’s

silent theater turns

remembrance into

art and silence into

survival.

I

T’S NOT ALWAYS

ABOUT WHERE

YOU’RE BORN, BUT

WHAT SHAPES YOUR

PERSPECTIVE OF LIFE.

investments needed.” Flooding remains a

major challenge; access is only by boat, and

once there, movement is by foot, bicycle, or

motorbike. “In developing countries like

ours, culture is the last priority. Gastronomy,

our intangible heritage, receives almost

no support. Unlike Europe, where culture

drives development, we have more urgent

needs: education, healthcare, infrastructure.

After corruption, what’s left goes to

necessities, not culture.”

WILD INGREDIENTS AND

CULINARY INNOVATION

Over the next two days, the heat and

mosquitoes are relentless, yet the natural

beauty is almost euphoric. An excursion

in the delta introduces local wild ingredients

at Tipico Mojaneres. Sucran cuisine

has Caribbean influences, much like

Espinosa’s own.

The first two dishes showcase capybara,

the world’s largest rodent and a staple of

the wetlands: Espinosa serves it slow

cooked, pulled, and stuffed in pita,with a

side of rice; and steamed with coconut

milk. The main course is Pisingo, a small

local waterfowl marinated in spices and

coconut milk and served with crispy

plantain slices. And finally, there’s caiman,

a small alligator caught in the delta. “It’s

technically forbidden to eat such species,

but we only use locally available animals.

There are plenty of caymans and capybaras

here,” Espinosa notes. As she works closely

with local communities and is very mindful

of sustainability, Espinosa has special

permission to serve both cayman and

Pisingo at Restaurant Leo, with the cayman

farm-bred rather than wild. It is just

another way her close community relationships

have paid off. “Funleo has worked

across almost 70% of Colombia’s territory.

When I return after our projects, those

bonds remain,” she explains.

A VOICE AND A CALLING

Espinosa’s work continues to blend personal

history, national pride, and culinary mastery

into a heady mix. “I have a voice. We are

part of the food chain and carry responsibilities,

especially as hunger and environmental

challenges rise globally. I don’t want to

just criticize; I aim to highlight injustices I

see in gastronomy, politics, and society.

That is my work as a chef.”

Leonor Espinosa’s journey– from

mischievous child to internationally

acclaimed chef and social entrepreneur – is

a testament to resilience, creativity, and

cultural stewardship. Through Restaurant

Leo and Funleo, she elevates Colombian

cuisine, empowers communities, preserves

local ingredients, and demonstrates how

gastronomy can be a tool for meaningful

change.

<

Photos: Tove Oskarsson Henckel (4)


REVIEWS

EDITORS

Martin Backman (MB)

Pia Bendel (PB)

Aivar Hanson (AH)

Lassi Martikainen (LM)

Tove Oskarsson Henckel (TH)

Jesper Uhurp (JU)

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

PAULA

Paulas Passage 5,

1799 Copenhagen

Denmark

ĀKME

Sandkaj 39,

2150 Copenhagen

Denmark

UDTRYK

Teglgårdsstræde 8A

1452 Copenhagen K

Denmark

BAR ALLEGRINE

Kammakargatan 22

111 40 Stockholm

Sweden

NOOK

Högbergsgatan 62

118 54 Stockholm

Sweden

KROG AGRIKULTUR

Franska bukten 10

116 45 Stockholm

Sweden

BHOGA

Norra Hamngatan 10

411 14 Gothenburg

Sweden

SCHOU

Fløyfjellet 2

5014 Bergen

Norway

OMAKASE BY SERGEY PAK

Skostredet Hotel

Domkirkegaten 6

5017 Bergen, Norway

ESMES

Iso Roobertinkatu 24

00120 Helsinki

Finland

A.JU

Tartu mnt 82

10112 Tallinn

Estonia

SAINT-MALO

Vilniaus g. 37

01119 Vilnius

Lithuania

Bar Allergine is Swedish

celebrity chef Danyel Couet’s

latest – and only – project.

THE HOT DOZEN

The enduring popularity of Nordic gastronomy is well deserved,

as these 12 new restaurants demonstrate: Scaling new heights

with superlative skill, exceptional local ingredients, and innovative

concepts that merge casual charm with fine dining, they set the

tone in the North and beyond.

Photos: Mads Sommer Ankerlund, Paula, Mathilde Thykier


PAULA

Copenhagen, Denmark

1Once home to Copenhagen’s famed

brewery and now a lively hub of

residences, restaurants and bars, the

redeveloped Carlsberg Byen district offers

an impressive array of culinary destinations.

Among the latest is Paula, a restaurant that

offers casual dining at the highest level.

The successor of the acclaimed Studio,

ownership remains the same, but the new

concept marks a deliberate departure from

the fine dining model. Gone are the lengthy

tasting menus; instead, Paula operates as a

bistro— both in price and approach. Yet the

standard remains strikingly high. Head

Chef Stefan Hansen, whose past stints include

Michelin-starred kitchens such as Kong

Hans and Frederiksminde, brings precision

and polish to every plate. Guests can tailor

their evening as they wish, with both à la

carte dishes and flexible tasting options

such as a three-course menu for DKK 495,

or a five-course version for DKK 995. For

walk-ins, a single dish and a glass of wine

are perfectly acceptable. Hansen’s style

takes its cues from the classical Franco-

Danish repertoire, elevated with the freshness

and purity of New Nordic cuisine and

interspersed with Japanese flavors like yuzu,

sesame, miso and dashi. Their forcemeat of

white fish on bread croutons exemplifies

this marriage of craft and clarity. Paula’s

ethos is equally defined by sustainability:

The kitchen sources vegetables from small,

ambitious growers and eschews meat from

farms, relying primarily on wild game from

North Zealand. All seafood is caught sustainably.

The result is thoughtful, flavor-driven

cuisine at a fair price— a restaurant that

offers the finesse of fine dining without the

formality. (JU)

Offering fine dining standards in a casual

bistro environment, Paula is the best of

both worlds.

RANKING

Food

Service

Wine List

Ambience

TOTAL

47 of 50

18 of 20

15 of 20

7 of 10

87 of 100

PAULA

Paulas Passage 5,

1799 Copenhagen V,

Denmark

+45 287 97060

restaurantpaula.dk

ĀKME

Copenhagen, Denmark

2

Copenhagen’s new Nordhavn district

has rapidly become one of

city’s most intriguing destinations –

not least from a culinary perspective. Between

piers, container yards, cruise ships

and innovative sustainable housing projects,

you’ll find numerous quality restaurants

like Sushi Anaba, Vie, and, most

recently, Matt Orlando’s Esse. And right in

the middle is Ākme, occupying the space

where Mads Battefeld’s Sushi Anaba originally

stood before relocating elsewhere in

the neigh borhood. Indeed, both of its founders,

Emil Hassan Lyngbæk and Valdemar

Junge, used to work at Sushi Anaba, which

explains the distinctly Japanese foundation

of their new project. Their set menu follows

an omakase format with 14 courses

(DKK 1,300), yet unlike its predecessor,

Ākme adds a subtle French sensibility without

straying into fusion cuisine. The

dominant Japanese influence remains evi-

dent in their frequent use of raw fish, refreshing

dashi, seaweed, fresh wasabi, yuzu

– to say nothing of the precise, restrained

presentation. Yet despite its Japanese sensibilities,

most of the ingredients are Danish.

A serving of canette with mushrooms

channels the smoky depth of a yakitori

grill, while a pepper sauce with exotic

undertones reinforces the nod to Japan.

With just 16 seats – a counter and eight

additional covers in the adjoining room –

Ākme delivers an intimate and immersive

experience few can match in Denmark.

Dishes unfold before your eyes as the kitchen

slices, brushes, arranges – a choreography

of quiet concentration in the service

of excellence. At present, Ākme

stands among Copenhagen’s most captivating

restaurants, offering exceptional value

for the high quality it delivers. (JU)

RANKING

Food

Service

Wine List

Ambience

TOTAL

48 of 50

19 of 20

17 of 20

9 of 10

93 of 100

Ākme serves Danish ingredients

with Japanese sensibilities and a

touch of French flair.

ĀKME

Sandkaj 39

2150 Copenhagen

Denmark

+45 316 37473

akme.dk

95–100 points 90–94 points 85–89 points 80–84 points

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

201

gourmet / REVIEWS

UDTRYK

Copenhagen, Denmark

3When Udtryk received its first

Michelin star in spring 2025 – the

fastest ever awarded in Denmark –

it confirmed what many already suspected:

that Asian-inspired cuisine has never been

stronger on the Copenhagen dining scene.

Born in Hong Kong, Head Chef Edward

Lee previously worked under Eric Vildgaard

at Jordnær, and that legacy shows –

though Lee’s style is distinctly his own. The

opening tartlets, arranged with meticulous

precision, evoke Jordnær’s elegance, but as

the 18-course omakase menu (DKK 1,850)

unfolds, the flavors grow darker, deeper

and more assertive. Dishes featuring XO

sauce, intense soy reductions and plum koshu

reveal a bolder hand. Portions are small,

but flavor intensity is immense – from the

pork with its generous ribbon of fat to

Danish wagyu served atop creamy rice

infused with its own drippings. Lee’s kitchen

is defined by extraction and depth:

both meat and fish are dry-aged in glassfronted

cabinets within the wine cellar.

Even the turbot, served with a beurre blanc

made from a ten-year-old, rare rice wine,

reflects that pursuit of perfection. It’s one of

the finest turbot dishes in recent memory.

While the menu may seem exotic, Lee’s

sourcing remains deeply local. The rare

Danish wagyu exemplifies his staunch

commitment to small-scale producers. Sommelier

Morten Magh, among Denmark’s

finest, oversees the wine list. Notably, pairings

come in two portion sizes – a

thoughtful touch that accommodates both

alcohol tolerance and smaller wallets.

Udtryk is an extraordinary addition to

Copenhagen’s fine dining landscape: precise,

daring and deeply flavor driven. (JU)

At Udtryk, chef Edward Lee serves

exotic Asian dishes sourced locally.

RANKING

Food

Service

Wine List

Ambience

TOTAL

48 of 50

19 of 20

20 of 20

9 of 10

96 of 100

UDTRYK

Teglgårdsstræde 8A

1452 Copenhagen K

Denmark

+45 302 07906

norrlyst.dk/udtryk

BAR ALLEGRINE

Stockholm, Sweden

4When one of Sweden’s most prolific

chefs, Danyel Couet, decided to

pour all his energy into a single place,

the result was Bar Allegrine – today, his

one and only restaurant. And somewhere in

that shift, he’s found a new rhythm. Now

he’s back at the stove, fully present and an

unmistakable part of the restaurant’s daily

heartbeat. Recently, Bar Allegrine went

through a reset, and there is now a food bar

at the center of the room. Most couples are

seated here, swept up in the bustle of the

open kitchen. For larger parties, there are

tables – but the intimacy lingers. The menu

has evolved too: more small plates, more

playfulness. The grilled snail skewers with

forest mushroom emulsion offered a deep,

rounded umami in every bite, while the frog

legs with garlic, parsley, and butter, and rabbit

rillettes with caramelized Jerusalem artichoke

spoke in a more classic French dialect

– elegant, rich, perfectly executed. If you

want something more substantial, a couple

of mains anchor the menu – large enough

for two. The standout is a whole grilled sea

bass with perch mousseline and caponata –

a generous, beautifully balanced composition

in both taste and structure. The wine list

reflects Couet’s French roots, but offers

detours to other parts of the world. There’s

something here for both the curious and the

devoted wine lover, and the overall impression

is relaxed, yet thoughtful. The new,

expanded selection of wines by the glass in

various price ranges makes it easy to explore

– perfectly suited to this new, more vibrant

style, though even more wines by the

glass wouldn’t hurt. Bar Allegrine 2.0 feels

as much like a living room as it does a fine

dining restaurant. And there, in the middle

of the buzz, stands Couet with calm confidence.

It’s clear: he’s found his home. (PB)

RANKING

Food

Service

Wine List

Ambience

TOTAL

46 of 50

17 of 20

17 of 20

8 of 10

88 of 100

BAR ALLEGRINE

Kammakargatan 22

111 40 Stockholm

Sweden

+46 841 005909

allegrine.se

Bar Allegrine prides

itself on interaction at

the food bar, but also

has tables for groups.

Photos: Mads Sommer Ankerlund, Stefan Anderson, Jakob Fridholm, Fabian Björnstjerna


NOOK

Stockholm, Sweden

The new Nook evokes

industrial chic.

5Defined as a small and cozy enclosed

space, that was indeed the spirit

of the original Nook, which opened

in 2014 on Stockholm’s Åsögatan and quickly

gained a loyal following. Its appeal lay

in its reasonably priced three-course menus,

Asian-inspired fusion cuisine, and excellent

wine list. Nook moved to larger premises in

2022 but never quite found its footing, closing

shortly thereafter. However, a new

attempt opened in August on Högbergsgatan

in Södermalm, retaining the original

team of Alexander Bäckman and Gustaf

Larsson as well as the familiar concept of

two three-course menus complemented by a

few snacks. The new space trades the

somewhat tired white-tile aesthetic for a

darker, moodier palette with exposed ducts

and pipes. Regulars of the old Nook will

feel right at home at the new kitchen bar,

which once again encourages the lively

interaction that was a hallmark of the original.

The music is equally inspired, and their

playlists are even available on Spotify – perfect

if you want to recreate the vibe at

home. The initial menu options include a

SKR 595 menu featuring pike-perch sashimi,

Hubbard chicken, and a raspberry-fig

leaf dessert, or a SKR 645 menu with aged

beef, monkfish, and a hazelnut-plum dessert.

Nook has a penchant for layering flavors

around a main ingredient – you’ll find

dill, tomato, cucumber, dashi, sour cream,

birch bark oil, and nasturtium with the

pike-perch, while the beef comes with chanterelle,

string bean, iceplant, rose vinegar,

and lovage. Don’t be alarmed: the cooking

is precise, the flavors well-balanced, and

you might even be inspired to try a few

simplified combinations at home. (MB)

RANKING

Food

Service

Wine List

Ambience

TOTAL

44 of 50

18 of 20

16 of 20

8 of 10

86 of 100

NOOK

Högbergsgatan 62

118 54 Stockholm

Sweden

+46 870 21570

nookrestaurang.se

KROG AGRIKULTUR

Stockholm, Sweden

6Filip Fastén began his career at 13,

earning the title of Swedish Chef

of the Year at just 21 in 2014.

Together with Joel Åhlin, he opened Agrikultur

a year later, earning a Michelin star

in 2018 before closing in 2022. However,

the end would be short-lived: When Krog

Agrikultur finally opened this fall in the

Slussen redevelopment, Fastén managed to

merge fine dining with the relaxed spirit of

a wine bar and a touch of Mediterranean

charm. You can drop in for a quick glass at

the bar, spend an evening at the kitchen

counter, or around a table sharing small plates.

The cornflower blue interior is complemented

by natural wood and textile accents

along with sweeping views of Lake Mälaren,

creating an atmosphere that feels airy

and cozy. The menu retains some of Agrikultur’s

most successful concepts, like produce

from Lilla Labäck farm and a team

including Agrikultur alumna Desiree Jaks.

Its predecessor’s air of luxury has been subtly

toned down, yet seasonal produce, foraged

herbs, and home-made fermentations

are still combined into dishes rooted in

French and Italian tradition, but distinctly

Nordic in expression. The opening menu

had pork terrine with pickled turnips, cannelloni

filled with local brown crab and

braised boar paired with elderberries. Don’t

miss the desserts: The wild raspberries with

vernal grass ice cream perfectly capture

what Krog Agrikultur is all about – easily

one of the best of the year. As another nod

to the past, you’ll find Bar Agrikultur’s classic

snack of cucumber, smetana and honey,

alongside a short but well-curated wine list

with a small selection by the glass. The focus

leans toward France, Burgundy and other

classics, but with several mainly European

wines making delightful appearances. (MB)

RANKING

Food

Service

Wine List

Ambience

TOTAL

46 of 50

19 of 20

19 of 20

9 of 10

93 of 100

KROG AGRIKULTUR

Franska bukten 10

116 45 Stockholm

Sweden

agrikultur.se

Cornflower blue dominates the

Krog Agrikulur’s interior.


dec–feb 2026

falstaff

203

gourmet / REVIEWS

BHOGA

Gothenburg, Sweden

7Few reopenings in Sweden have been

as eagerly awaited as Bhoga: Closing

in late 2023 for a full renovation of

the stunning 17th-century premises, it

would be nearly 18 months before the

Michelin-starred favorite would reemerge in

mid-August. Behind Bhoga are Niclas Yngvesson

and Gustav Knutsson, known for an

ingredient-forward philosophy defined by

elegant simplicity and careful detail. Their

loyal regulars have quickly returned, even

though the reopening was kept quiet in true

Swedish “soft launch” fashion, as seen

recently at places like Nook and Agrikultur

in Stockholm. Inside, little has changed. The

room feels calm and subdued, the palette

light with natural colors – a fitting stage for

food that remains grounded in local produce

and precise execution. The style is recognizably

Bhoga: minimal, refined and quietly

confident. The opening appetizers set the

tone: a tartlet of kohlrabi, cucumber and

rainbow trout roe; lightly cured Baltic herring

with pickled mustard seeds, and a crab

croustade with saffron from Österlen. All

beautifully balanced and assured. Among

the mains, zucchini with dill pollen and fig

leaf oil, Hamachi in tomato water with coriander

and fermented plum, and turbot with

beans, parsley and jalapeños demonstrate

the same finesse. Dessert – Swedish berries

with strawberry ice cream and woodruff

crème diplomat – offers a clean, measured

finish. If the long closure has yielded little in

the way of evolution, it has at least preserved

Bhoga’s identity: precise, elegant, and

restrained. The experience remains accomplished,

though perhaps a touch too familiar

– a return that satisfies rather than surprises.

(TH)

Bhoga’s 17th-century premises

have been recently remodeled.

RANKING

Food

Service

Wine List

Ambience

TOTAL

47 of 50

19 of 20

17 of 20

9 of 10

92 of 100

BHOGA

Norra Hamngatan

Gothenburg city center

Schweden

+46 311 38018

bhoga.se

SCHOU

Bergen, Norway

8Towering over Bergen, Fløyfjellet –

or simply Mount Fløyen – rises 399

meters above sea level. Most visitors

arrive via the funicular, an eight-minute

ascent that grants a sweeping view over the

fjords and ends in one of Norway’s most

interesting new dining destinations: Schou.

Named after the architect who designed the

building in the 1920s, the recently renovated

premises now host a brasserie, fine

dining establishment, and bar overseen by

Chef René Leo Blume, formerly of Hotel

Atlantic in Hamburg and Zurich’s Wirtschaft

im Franz. The lively hum of the brasserie

drifts into Schou through a curtain

dividing the two, giving the latter warmth

without compromising ambiance. The tasting

menu has four courses, with a few à la

carte supplements. Among the highlights are

mahogany clam with fermented asparagus

sauce, dill oil and sea grapes – a dish of

remarkable finesse at only NOK 150 – as

well as langoustine (NOK 260) and scallop

(NOK 230). In a city where seafood often

comes at a premium, these prices are a breath

of fresh air. The wine list is equally flexible,

offering top-tier bottles by the glass,

such as Domaine Antonin Guyon Corton

Grand Cru Clos du Roi 2018 (NOK 335/10

cl). From the open kitchen, dishes arrive

straight from the pan – our cusk cooked to

perfection, accompanied by a silky, lemonaccented

sauce. Another inspired creation, a

DIY croissant with oxtail ragout, pickled

onions, dried shallot, beef-garum mayonnaise

and shimeji mushrooms, adds a playful

touch and personality. At Schou, pleasure

feels effortless: the cooking is precise yet

unpretentious, the mood generous and

genuine. This is a place for locals and visitors

alike – where Bergen’s culinary scene

looks out over the sea below. (TH)

RANKING

Food

Service

Wine List

Ambience

TOTAL

46 of 50

18 of 20

18 of 20

8 of 10

90 of 100

SCHOU

Fløyfjellet 2

5014 Bergen

Norway

+47 553 36800

floyen.no/schou

Schou offers a precise and

genuine gourmet experience.

Photos: Goteborg Film AB, Schou


#snowpolo

snowpolo-stmoritz.com

snowpolostmoritz

gourmet / REVIEWS

OMAKASE

Bergen, Norway

9Long celebrated for its seafood, Bergen

has a new benchmark with

Omakase by Sergej Pak. Its namesake

spent much of his life in Moscow refining

his mastery of sushi, and it shows:

Chef Sergey Pak’s omakase received a

Michelin star within months of opening,

and showcases impeccable ingredient handling

and technical finesse. The menu opens

with an oyster in ponzu, cherry blossom

vinegar, white soy and mirin, crowned with

black sturgeon caviar and trout roe. A refined

overture that sets the tone: balanced,

elegant, quietly complex. The thread of

gentle acidity and saline sweetness continues

throughout, anchored by Pak’s choice of

Akitakomachi rice seasoned first with cherry

blossom vinegar, then akasu red vinegar

for depth. Subsequent courses – scallop,

salmon, mountain trout and Bekkjarvik

shrimp with a vivid blue roe – showcasing

the local catch at its most pristine. A chawanmushi

with brown crab and shiitake

delivers an exquisite umami interlude. The

one questionable moment is the otoro and

uni finale. The marinade of soy, mirin, and

water conceals rather than highlights the

tuna’s natural texture – simplicity might

have achieved greater clarity. Dessert takes

the form of miso ice cream, a textural show

stopper that, while intriguing, lacks the

quiet resolution a traditional tamago might

have offered. Still, it’s a distinctive signature

that underscores Pak’s willingness to eschew

formality and go with his own rhythm. His

control of flavor and respect for raw materials

places him among the best sushi chefs in

the Nordics, his work displaying the confidence

that comes from precision, patience,

and years behind the counter. (TH)

Sergej Pak is among

the best sushi chefs in

the Noridics.

RANKING

Food

Service

Wine List

Ambience

TOTAL

48 of 50

20 of 20

17 of 20

9 of 10

94 of 100

OMAKASE BY SERGEY PAK

Skostredet Hotel

Domkirkegaten 6

5017 Bergen, Norway

+47 559 00300

debergenske.no

ESMES

Helsinki, Finland

latest hot opening,

Esmes arrives with a pedigree:

10Helsinki’s

It’s the brainchild of the team

behind 305, The Bull & The Firm, and Wellamo,

all widely recognized as among the

city‘s top dining spots. Instantly inviting,

the dining room’s large windows open onto

Iso Roobertinkatu, framing a small bar and

a handful of tables. At its center stands a

ten-meter-long, L-shaped oak counter that

dominates the premises, naturally merging

open kitchen and communal table. From

here, guests can watch the chefs at work,

plating and adding final touches. Just like

the interior, the menu is thoughtful and precise.

The opening tomato dish shows beautiful

restraint – simple, bursting with flavor,

and flawless in its execution. Likewise, the

grilled endives with burnt butter emulsion

and trout roe strike a refined balance. The

risotto uses Arborio rice cooked to perfection

in an umami-rich stock, lifted by the

clever crunch of crispy chicken skin. The

schnitzel arrives delicately puffed, topped

with wild garlic buds, apple, chanterelles,

and an anchovy butter sauce. The monkfish

is grilled until tender and flaky with a whisper

of smokiness on a hibachi and is served

with crayfish bisque and chili oil. Both

could use a touch more lightness and acidity

to reach even greater heights – but the oxidized

and caramelized pear that closes the

meal offers a delightfully fresh finish. The

wine list is still under development yet

already offers over fifteen by-the-glass options

– a welcome rarity in Helsinki. From

the kitchen to the sommelier and the floor,

service is witty, warm, and confident, delivered

by a team that clearly enjoys what they

do, contributing to Esmes well-deserved

buzz as one of the city’s most promising

new arrivals. (LM)

RANKING

Food

Service

Wine List

Ambience

TOTAL

45 of 50

18 of 20

17 of 20

9 of 10

89 of 100

ESMES

Iso Roobertinkatu 24

00120 Helsinki

Finland

+358 504 016311

esmeshki.fi

With over 15 wines by the glass,

Esmes is making waves in

Helsinki.

Photos: Maverix Media, Esmes

206 falstaff dec–feb 2025 95–100 points 90–94 points 85–89 points 80–84 points

HIGH TATR AS

SLOVAK IA

www.vt.sk

Tatranská Lomnica

Starý Smokovec

Štrbské Pleso

Holidays in the High Tatras are about experiences. That’s why our

three modern mountain resorts – Tatranská Lomnica, Štrbské

Pleso and Starý Smokovec offer top services. Discover perfectly

groomed ski pistes, comfortable and modern cable cars, culinary

specialities in mountain restaurants and great fun in an après

ski bar. Enjoy an adventurous snow groomer ride, an experiential

dinner, exciting day and night sledging or the unique Tatra Temple

of Ice in Hrebienok. And to spoil you even more, our TMR hotels

guarantee top services plus ski passes and water park tickets

included in the price.

New chairlift

at Štrbské Pleso

gourmet / REVIEWS

A.JU

Tallinn, Estonia

awaited in Tallinn,

A.JU set social media abuzz

11Eagerly

with sneak peeks and snippets

of information well before opening, promising

impressive décor and ambitious cuisine.

Now that it’s finally here, it doesn’t

disappoint. A self-described high-end casual

dining restaurant, A.JU fits the ongoing

trend in Estonia of avoiding the term “fine

dining” to maintain a more approachable

image among diners still suspicious of the

term. While a fixed tasting menu is offered,

à la carte dishes are far more prevalent, allowing

diners to order more or less, tailoring

their evening to their preferences and

budget. The tasting menu is well worth it,

however: attractively priced, it’s emblematic

of the playful approach of head chef

Joonas Koppel. For starters, he serves miniature

brains made of raspberry and choco-

late on a base resembling a video game

controller, while dessert consists of a panna

cotta shaped like kissing lips. This quirkiness

can be seen throughout the entire

menu: Reindeer tartare is served on actual

reindeer antlers, and each diner has a

hovering plate floating in front of them

that is used to serve finger food. You might

suspect that such gimmicks would distract

from the flavor, but this is not the case.

Joonas Koppel is representing Estonia at

the Bocuse d’Or this year, and his dishes

are technically flawless and always delectable,

with or without the special effects.

The restaurant bar offers drinks to match

the food, with signature cocktails complementing

one or more dishes on the menu

rather than competing with them. It is well

worth a visit in its own right, even if you’re

not hungry. (AH)

Design-forward and quirky, A.JU

lives up to the hype.

RANKING

Food

Service

Wine List

Ambience

TOTAL

47 of 50

18 of 20

18 of 20

10 of 10

93 of 100

A.JU

Tartu mnt 82

10112 Tallinn

Estonia

+372 532 25165

ajuresto.ee

SAINT-MALO

Vilnius, Lithuania

Francophile outpost

makes no secret of its allegiance:

As you approach, you 12This

can see the French flag proudly displayed

from afar. It’s fitting: Promising a culinary

journey through France without leaving

Vilnius, Saint-Malo is a culinary embassy

that avoids clichés by serving classic and

authentic dishes drizzled in butter. The

atmosphere – and flavors on offer – is refined,

combining Gallic elegance with Nordic

restraint. Just take their bread: Baked

in-house, it has a baguette-like crust and

genuine sourdough flavor – served wtih

truffle butter, it’s a revelation in itself. If

you only ordered that and nothing else, you

would still leave satisfied. But Saint-Malo’s

quest for excellence certainly doesn’t end

there. The mood is set by the background

music and the service. During our visit, the

sommelier and waiter had a heated debate

about which dishes on the menu should be

given a special recommendation. In the end,

both were right: The scallops baked in

mushroom sauce or the grilled squid with

creamy lemon sauce were both exceptional.

If the whole restaurant had to be summed

up in one dish, either would fit the bill.

Unsurprising for a French establishment,

the wine list is the size of a bible, and treated

with nearly as much reverence. All bottles

stem from France and are listed by region,

with short introductions describing the

unique attributes and terroirs of each. While

highly informative, there is no need to

study it in depth: Saint-Malo’s sommelier

Ignatij Semionov has just been named the

best in the Baltics. Their coffee deserves a

special mention, surpassing most restaurants

in France. Even if Saint-Malo were

located in Paris and not Vilnius, its savoirfaire

would set it apart. (AH)

RANKING

Food

Service

Wine List

Ambience

TOTAL

46 of 50

16 of 20

18 of 20

10 of 10

90 of 100

SAINT-MALO

Vilniaus g. 37

01119 Vilnius

Lithuania

+370 682 50300

saintmalo.lt

Unapologetically

French, Saint-Malo is a

culinary embassy.

Photos: A.JU, Saint-Malo



Between mountain herbs

and haute cuisine.

Surrounded by untouched nature, guests experience moments that last:

a quiet walk through the morning dew, a lovingly prepared meal with a

panoramic view, a glass of wine in the warm light of the evening.

The cuisine follows the rhythm of the seasons—honest, heartfelt, and inspired

by its surroundings.

A place where pleasure lifts the spirit. And where calm doesn’t mean silence,

but the comforting feeling of truly arriving

Discover the

summer!

Editor of

Hotels & Travel

REGITZE CECILIE

ROSENVINGE

TRAVEL

NORWAY’S MOST

REMOTE LUXURY

HOTEL IS OPENING

SOON!

Something’s up on the edge of the horizon:

In the wild Træna archipelago

on Norway’s Helgeland coast, Ytrí

Island Retreat is set to open in April 2026

as a sanctuary of refined simplicity. “Ytrí”

means “outermost” in Old Norse, which

couldn’t be more fitting – the next stop is

Greenland. With 38 rooms and suites framed

by floor-to-ceiling windows, the design

echoes regional tradition while embedding

itself into the landscape. Ytrí’s culinary vision

is equally ambitious, serving premium

local fish and seafood enhanced by Arctic

botanicals and foraged ingredients. If you

seek raw nature and refined cuisine in an

extraordinary setting, Ytrí promises to be

not just a hotel, but a destination. Reservations

are now welcome. ytri.no

TREEHOUSE OF WONDERS

A sustainable retreat in southwest

Sweden, the Trakt Forest Hotel is

owned by Sandra and Mattias

Sälleteg, the fourth generation to run

the neighbouring Sällehägnad farm.

Standing tall among the trees, this

destination offers so much more than

just a bit of calm in the Småland

woods; consisting of five elevated

wooden suites designed by architect

Gert Wingårdh, it provides a limitless

experience where nature is constantly

present. The restaurant, Traktköket,

features recipes that have

been passed down over the generations,

and their forest spa is the icing

on the cake. traktforesthotel.com

1HOTEL COPENHAGEN

NOW OPEN

Standing where Skt Petri used to, the leafy

façade of 1Hotel Copenhagen hides a calm,

stone-and-wood sanctuary – think moss-covered

walls, oak floors, and rooms that feel

like modernist forest cabins – a reflection of

Copenhagen’s effortless cool. 1hotels.com


NEWS

Photos: Ytri Island Retreat, 1Hotel, Trakt Forset Hotel, Lilløy Lindenberg, Furuhem, Max Ahrens, Kilsti Compact Lodge, Jaanus Jagomagi/Unsplash

A REMOTE ISLAND

ADVENTURE

A sanctuary amid untamed nature, the

remote island of Lilløy Lindenberg in

Norwary is perfect for small, intimate

groups: With room for up to 10 at a time, you

can either book a room for the night – or opt

for total seclusion by reserving the entire

island. Just a 40-minute drive from Bergen,

Lilløy feels like a portal taking you way back

to a cozier era where you’d gather around a

crackling fireplace, feast on local delicacies

and sleep under the stars. Foodies can

choose several culinary packages. Pure bliss.

thelindenberg.com

A GROWING INTEREST IN

NORTHERN LIGHTS

Interest in the Northern Lights is surging, particularly in Finland,

where bookings have increased by a 2.3% compared to

previous years. This surge is attributed to the growing trend

of “noctourism,” where travelers seek out nighttime experiences

like stargazing and whale watching in Arctic regions.

Destinations such as Tromsø in Norway are also witnessing a

rise in nocturnal tourism activities.

Source: euronews.com

THE STARS ALIGN FOR

HAMBURG’S GRAND DAME

At the legendary Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten,

chef Christoph Rüffer led Restaurant

Haerlin to three Michelin stars in 2025 – a

first for the house and a crowning moment in

its 125-year history. Nestled within the city’s

most storied hotel, Haerlin has long been a

sanctuary of precision and poetry on the plate.

Rüffer’s achievement elevates the restaurant

and the hotel’s legacy even further. It

reaffirms the Vier Jahreszeiten as one of

Europe’s great gastronomic landmarks. Here,

old-world elegance truly lives on with quiet,

confident brilliance. A milestone moment for

Hamburg’s culinary scene. fairmont.com

THE SPIRIT OF FÄVIKEN LIVES

ON IN BÅSTAD

Set to open soon in the coastal town of

Båstad, Furuhem is a new chapter for

Swedish chef Magnus Nilsson, who revolutionized

Nordic cuisine with his radical,

hyperlocal approach to sustainability

and sourcing ingredients at the storied

Fäviken. Located in the town’s former inn

which operated for 120 years(!) Furuhem

consists of a guest house and a farm-totable

restaurant celebrating conscious,

Nordic cuisine. Serving breakfast, lunch

and dinner daily, all fruits and vegetables

will come from Nilsson‘s own garden or

nearby farms. The restaurant can seat

up to 60, with 16 guest rooms available.

furuhem.com

CABINS WITH A VIEW

Kilsti Compact Lodge is a cluster of four

glass cabins and a sauna, built on the site

of a former mountain farm in Norway.

The views of Storfjorden and Geiranger

are spectacular and more than reason

enough to come here. Each cabin is

well-equipped and furnished like a small

apartement, including such luxe features

as a big terrace with a fireplace. Guests

can order a daily food box containing

breakfast and dinner made from local

ingredients. If you seek natural luxury,

you’ve found it! kilsticompactlodge.no

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

211

travel / HIGH TATRAS

The peaks and forests of the

High Tatras offer countless

sporting activities.

Photo: Martin Kolba


POCKET

WONDERLAND

The High Tatras are a winter paradise where every attraction is within easy

reach. Whether luxury and wellness, pristine nature, overnight stays above the

clouds, or innovative cuisine, Slovakia’s mountains have you covered.

TEXT ELENA STRÁPKOVÁ & JARMILA HORVÁTHOVÁ

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

213


it became the first five-star hotel of an international

chain in Slovakia. With rooms and

a luxurious spa offering the same amazing

view of the surrounding peaks from over a

century ago, it also boasts the best restaurant

in Štrbské Pleso: chef Miroslav

Zamišek offers a gourmet menu steeped in

regional heritage sourced from local

suppliers. Be sure to try his interpretation of

typical Slovak pierogi with homemade

sheep’s curd!

A small ski resort is next door, offering

10 km of slopes; the highest, Solisko, starts

at an altitude of 1825 meters. But Štrbské

Pleso offers so much more. A strategic

starting point for high-altitude hikes, the

lake is surrounded by an easy but scenic

nature trail, ideal for cross-country skiing.

Nearby you’ll find some iconic, though no

longer functional, ski jump ramps left over

from the 1970 World Ski Championships.

Finally, the Tatras Observation Tower has

barrier-free access and a heart-stopping

glass bridge over the Podtatranska basin

granting unforgettable views to all.

Being small has its advantages

– you’re close to

everything. Few places in

the world prove this better

than the High Tatra mountain

range in Northern Slovakia: Whether hiking

in summer and autumn, or skiing in winter

– adventure and recreation are usually just

a few kilometers away. In fact, it’s best to

just park your car upon arrival and leave it

there for your entire stay: Anything too far

to walk or ski can usually be reached via

the iconic Tatra tram – a rack railway

connecting most towns.

The best place to start is Štrbské Pleso:

Sitting at an altitude of 1,350 meters, it’s

the highest of all the Tatra villages, its

pristine mountain air and beneficial

microclimate making it popular for treating

respiratory problems since the 19th century.

The Grand Hotel Kempinski High Tatras

was one of the original health resorts and

lies directly on the shore of Štrbské Pleso;

after extensive renovation sixteen years ago,

The Hotel Lomnica is the “grande dame of

the Tatras”: The owners proudly display their

art collection throughout the rooms, while

celebrated chef Patrik Pokrývka handles

the menu.

PARK YOUR CAR

UPON ARRIVAL AND

LEAVE IT THERE: IF IT’S

TOO FAR TO WALK OR

SKI, IT CAN USUALLY BE

REACHED VIA THE

ICONIC TATRA TRAM.

A NIGHT IN THE CLOUDS

Heading east, you’ll find Starý Smokovec,

a former ski resort and excellent

starting point for assaulting the peaks

of the Hrebienok region, easily

reachable via cable car. In winter, the

Tatra Ice Dome is a big attraction here:

an impressive, 12-meter-high structure

hewn from 1880 ice blocks that weigh

225 tons, it has a different appearance

every year. In the high season and snowfall

permitting, you can get from Hrebienok to

Starý Smokovec via sleigh, as the road

transforms into a wide 2.5 km sled track in

winter.

One of the most beautiful towns in the

High Tatras is Tatranská Lomnica, which is

also the highest ski resort in Slovakia at

2,196 meters above sea level with the

longest piste in the country, a 5.5 kilometer-downhill

run. If you want to experience

something truly unique, take the cable car

to the top of Lomnický štít, at 2,633

meters. The view is truly breathtakin g –

and if you book well in advance, you can

even stay overnight in a miniature apartment

right in the cable car station! The

price includes a welcome aperitif, a

multi-course dinner in the highest café in

Photos: Hotel Lomnica (2), The Grand Hotel Bachledka Strachan, Bachledka Ski & Sun, provided


Slovakia and a hearty

breakfast. If you prefer

something a bit more

down to earth, try the

Grandhotel Praha: One of

the first luxury accommodations

in the High Tatras, it

exudes history while providing all the

amenities of today.

Another exceptional accommodation is

the gorgeous Hotel Lomnica – nicknamed

the “grande dame of the Tatras”, the

owners proudly display their extensive art

collection throughout the premises, while

their chef Patrik Pokrývka, a national

finalist of the Bocuse d’Or competition

ensures a superlative culinary experience.

And if Pokrývka’s tasting menu is a bit too

formal, there’s always Kuszmanov Bazár in

Lomnica – a beloved, rustic inn serving

craft beer and authentic Austro-Hungarian

cuisine.

BIRD’S EYE VIEW

A mere kilometer from Tatranská Lomnica

is Stará Lesná, a veritable wellness oasis in

the High Tatras. It has numerous fantastic

resorts for the weary traveler: Hotel

Kontakt was the first Slovak hotel with a

modern, extensive spa and wellness area,

while just around the corner, Hotel Lesná

was the first „adult friendly“ hotel in

Slovakia – as “adults only” is considered

discriminatory under Slovak law. In

practice, that means that children may stay,

but there are no special services and prices.

In the easternmost part of the Tatras, the

popular Bachledka Ski & Sun resort awaits

with something truly unique: the Treetop

Walk, an almost 1.5-kilometer-long wooden

walkway among the canopies. Climb the

32-meter-high observation tower and

experience the surrounding landscape as

only birds know it – and if you’re lucky

enough to come during the holidays, bask

in wonder as the entire structure is lit up

with thousands of tiny lights.

From here, it’s not far to the village of

Ždiar, which is seemingly out of a fairy tale:

Dotted with beautiful, ornate wooden

houses, it’s like an open-air museum. In

winter, snowfall is abundant, making for a

magnificent, magical sight – cottages in the

typical highland style jut out amid the

winter wonderland, like so many

<

Inset: The Grand Hotel Kempinski High Tatras. Above: The treetop walk at Bachledka Ski & Sun.

Below: The Grand Hotel Bachledka Strachan in the typical highland style of Ždiar.

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

215


Chef Jozef Breza of

Gašperov Mlyn has earned

countless accolades with

his zero waste approach

and use of regional

ingredients.

ADDRESSES

GRAND HOTEL KEMPINSKI HIGH TATRAS

A luxurious five-star hotel on the shores of

Štrbské Pleso with iconic views and a regenerative

microclimate.

Kúpeľná 6, Štrbské Pleso

kempinski.com/hightatras

<

gingerbread houses iced with snow. You

can stay right on the slopes at the Grand

Hotel Bachledka Strachan, the pride of the

prominent Strachan family, who have been

operating top-tier hotels in the area for

decades. Just a short distance away you can

find their Wellness Penzión Strachan, which

regularly ranks among the best in Slovakia.

GOURMET ESCAPADES

However, you needn’t go quite that far into

the mountains for exceptional scenery: The

gateway to the High Tatras is Poprad,

which has an international airport and good

train connections. Far more than just a

travel hub, its historic Spišská Sobota

district has one of the most charming

squares in Slovakia: featuring Gothic,

Renaissance and Baroque town houses,

even Queen Elizabeth II once visited.

If you’re looking for a truly relaxing stay,

try Doma u Nás (“at home with us”). The

owners have gone to great lengths to live up

to their name: The high-quality, minimalist

interiors eschew ostentatious displays for

the ultimate luxury of comfort, with the

scent of fresh coffee and homemade bread

wafting through the rooms at breakfast.

Being here is like a caress to the soul, a cozy

place to unwind after a strenuous ski- or

hiking tour – and with Erik Volko one of

the best and most experienced chefs in

Slovakia in the kitchen, something really

good on your plate is assured.

And last but certainly not least, the crown

jewel of Tatra’s gourmet scene: Gašperov

Mlyn, a repurposed mill in the small village

of Batizovce and the playground of chef

Jozef Breza, whose creative cuisine has

earned numerous accolades– from Falstaff,

La Liste and the Best Chef Awards. His

zero-waste approach and respect for local

ingredients goes far beyond tired clichés –

it’s an essential philosophy visible in each of

his creations, which utilize unusual herbs,

produce and ingredients that you have

likely never tasted before. His tasting menu

comes paired with conventional or natural

wines as well as non-alcoholic options,

curated by sommelier and owner Slavomíra

Raškovič .

From exhilarating ski runs to walking

among the clouds, intimate wellness oases

and nights under the stars, and award-winning

fine dining in picture postcard villages,

Slovakia’s High Tatras are like a snow globe

– compact, with magic around every corner.

Come and see for yourself!

The spa of the Grand Hotel Kempinski High

Tatras offers a breathtaking view.

GRANDHOTEL PRAHA

One of the first Tatra grand hotels, full of history

and close to the slopes.

Tatranská Lomnica 8

grandhotelpraha.sk

HOTEL LOMNICA

A beautifully renovated historic hotel with

first-class dining and a wonderful art collection

displayed throughout the premises.

Tatranská Lomnica 92

hotellomnica.sk

HOTEL KONTAKT

A wellness oasis in Stará Lesná; the first Slovak

hotel with a modern and extensive spa and

wellness zone – and still one of the best.

Stará Lesná 180, Stará Lesná

hotelkontakt.sk

HOTEL LESNÁ

An „adult friendly“ hotel with a unique L‘Occitane

branded spa, ideal for peaceful relaxation.

Stará Lesná 157, Stará Lesná

hotellesna.sk

GRAND HOTEL BACHLEDKA STRACHAN

A magical hotel in the unique village of Ždiar,

right next to the ski slopes in Bachledova dolina.

Bachledova dolina 695, Ždiar

hotelbachledka.sk

DOMA U NAS (AT HOME WITH US)

BOUTIQUE HOTEL & SPA

A stylish boutique hotel located in a 780-year

old house, with wonderful rooms and a restaurant

by chef Erik Volk in the historic center of

Spišská Sobota (Poprad).

Sobotské námestie 27, Poprad - Spišská Sobota

domaunas.sk

GAŠPEROV MLYN

An award-winning fine-dining experience by chef

Jozef Breza, featuring a tasting menu and

accommodations in a renovated former mill.

Štúrova 121/75, Batizovce

gasperovmlyn.sk

<

Photos: Gašperov Mlyn (2), Grand Hotel Kempinski High Tatras


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travel / ALTO ADIGE

THE DOLOMITES

HYPE OF THE

MOMENT

Perfect powder, sunny mountain views and hotels right on the slopes:

Alto Adige, with its spectacular mountain range, the Dolomites, is a

winter paradise. Still considered an well-kept secret, few places on

earth combine pleasure and sport so ideally.

TEXT KARIN CERNY

Photo: Lefay Resort & SPA Dolomiti


Pool with a view:

The wellness area at

Lefay Resort & SPA

Dolomiti spans 5,000

square meters.

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

221

travel / ALTO ADIGE

La Stüa de Michil is a

wood-paneled dream,

offering a superlative

dining experience.

Below: Traditional

Schlutzkrapfen are

the perfect snack

after a demanding day

of skiing.

The Dolomites and the surrounding

regions are popular for

extending the summer: Even

when autumn rears its head

elsewhere, sunny days still seem

endlessly long here in the Italian Alps. This

is probably why this region is still considered

a well-kept secret for winter getawas:

Italy isn‘t automatically associated with

skiing. Yet Alto Adige is home to some of

the most beautiful ski resorts in Europe,

with an extremely high chance of snow

from December to March. The winter sun

glistens on the white slopes as the sun

blazes down from an immaculate blue sky.

ALTO ADIGE IS HOME

TO SOME OF THE

MOST BEAUTIFUL SKI

RESORTS IN EUROPE,

WITH AN EXTREMELY

HIGH CHANCE OF

SNOW.

So why soak up the sun in the Caribbean

when you can spend your winter vacation

here with a tan guaranteed?

Northern Italy is dolce vita in the

mountains. While other regions dismiss you

with fast food, it’s a point of national pride

here to serve high-quality regional fare.

Even in the most rustic mountain huts, the

food will amaze you: from bacon dumplings

to Schlupfkrapfen – and the Comici

Hütte even serves fresh fish from their own

pond. Feasting and sport are not opposed

here – another reason why Alto Adige

stands apart. Currently, there are 17 restaurants

with Michelin stars in the area, which

Photos: IDM Südtirol-Alto Adige/Dietmar Denger, StockFood/ Arras, Gustav Willeit (2), Falkensteiner Hotel Kronplatz


Powder paradise: Alto

Adige enjoys consistent

and reliable snowfall from

December to March.

is remarkable. The region also

values quality staff: Ski instructors

have to complete a

two-year training course before

they can call themselves Maestro

di sci. The number and variety of

ski slopes is gigantic: 1,200 kilometers

of groomed pistes await, with the

Dolomiti Superski the largest skiing network

in the world. Better yet: You can use

all lifts with a single ski pass. What you

shouldn’t miss is Kronplatz, a winter sports

paradise at 2,275 meters above sea level

that‘s ideal for children and families with

its gentle hills and wide slopes. However, it

White slopes: The Kronplatz ski region is

perfect for both families and daredevils,

featuring both gentle inclines and black

diamond runs.

also has five black diamond runs guaranteeing

hair-raising descents, which is typical

for this region: Olympic runs lie next to family

slopes, so there’s something for everyone.

You simply split up for a few hours so

everyone gets their heart’s desire. Alto Adige

has another advantage: Not every Italian

region has Easter vacations, so the slopes

are much less crowded in spring than in

neighboring countries.

With almost 30 ski areas, Alto Adige

leaves nothing to be desired, and in Schnalstal

and Sulden, you can even ski on glaciers.

Some of the most exciting: Gran Risa

is one of the most technically interesting

<

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

223

travel / ALTO ADIGE

<

and challenging runs in the Alta Badia

ski region. In Gröden, the skiing elite meets

on the notoriously bumpy Saslong slope.

The Schnalstal Glacier lies at an altitude of

3,200 meters and its eight-kilometet so-called

smuggler’s run is famous for a reason.

The Holzriese descent in the Sesto Dolomites

has gradients of up to 71 percent and

takes you past the picturesque Three Peaks.

Want another record? With around 1,800

kilometers of trails, Alto Adige is a

cross-country skiing El Dorado that is also

ideal for ski tours.

And where do you stay? If you seek sophisticated

flair, head to Cortina d‘Ampezzo,

the Olympic town with an international

Find your center at

the peaceful Lefay Resort.

ASTOUNDING

ARCHITECTURE

ABOUNDS, WITH MANY

FASCINATING

BUILDINGS BLENDING

PERFECTLY INTO THE

RUGGED LANDSCAPE.

jet-set atmosphere. Or

head to the Alpe di Siusi,

the largest high plateau in Europe,

which offers a wide range of accommodations.

Yet Alto Adige is not just special

because of its culinary delights, but also

thanks to its flair for astounding architecture.

You’d be hard pressed to find so many

fascinating and unusual buildings that blend

perfectly into the rugged mountain landscape.

Featuring high-quality materials as standard,

large glass fronts capitalize on the

spectacular landscape, which is particularly

dramatic in winter.

You can also combine a city trip with a

ski tour: After enjoying the city of Bolzano,

simply head to the sunny Eggental, where

you‘ll find small, quaint villages yet to beoverrun

by tourists. Deutschnofen, for instance,

offers a fantastic panorama of Rosengarten,

Latemar and the twin mountains

Schwarzhorn and Weißhorn, and is also

enjoys 2,360 hours of sunshine annually –

the most in the region.

Wellness in Alto Adige is in a league of

its own: the biggest eye-catcher is the new

spa of the Alpin Panorama Hotel Hubertus,

which blends into the mountains with

its muted colors and natural materials, seemingly

weightless and stand ing on its

head. The COMO Alpina Dolomites on the

Seiser Alm also boasts a wellness area so

minimalist and luxurious that you’ll never

want to leave, featuring a 22-meter indoor-outdoor

pool and hay baths inspired

by local tradition. However, a winter vacation

in Alto Adige is not always about classic

skiing. Hotels like the Forestis with its

storied forest cuisine are luxurious mountain

hideaways perfect for unwinding in

peace and quiet. Here, you’ll get to enjoy

long walks, yoga classes, and healthy,

high-quality menus served with a view of

the mountains: Alto Adige lets you be

yourself and recharge your batteries. It’s

winter as it should be.

<

Photos: Lefay Resort & SPA Dolomiti (2)


travel / ALTO ADIGE

ADDRESSES

RESTAURANTS

FORESTIS DOLOMITES

Roland Lamprecht‘s “forest cuisine” at the five-star

Forestis Dolomites is spectacular. The dishes feature

the bounty of the region‘s forests: mushrooms,

berries, herbs, nuts – everything that Lamprecht

loved to gather with his mother as a child.

Palmschoß 22, 39042 Brixen

T: +39 0472 521008, forestis.it

LA STÜA DE MICHIL – SIMONE CANTAFIO

Chef Simone Cantafio makes visiting Stüa de Michil

at Hotel La Perla a delightful experience. He loves

contrasts and uses them skillfully. The elegant,

rustic restaurant provides the perfect setting.

Str. Col Alt 105, 39033 Corvara in Badia

T: +39 0471 831000, laperlacorvara.it

ATELIER MOESSMER NORBERT

NIEDERKOFLER

Three-star chef Norbert Niederkofler and his philosophy

of regionality have had a significant impact

on the region. Situated in a former textile factory,

the Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler demonstrates

why.

Walther-von-der-Vogelweide-Sraße 17,

39031 Bruneck T: +39 0474 646629,

ateliernorbertniederkofler.com

SUINSOM

Meaning “on the summit” in the local Ladin dialect,

Suinsom serves traditional local cuisine with a

Mediterranean influence. Authentic flavors that

combine the mountains and the sea.

Strada Puez, 12, 39048 Selva di Val Gardena

T: +39 0471 774100, tyrolhotel.it

SOFIE HÜTTE

Local delicacies served at 2,410 meters above sea

level. The wine cellar stocks over 300 fine wines

from around the world, as well as 20 different

champagnes and sparkling wines.

Streda Mastlè 64, 39047 St. Christina – Gröden

T: +39 335 5271240, seceda.com

GRÖDNERHOF

A romantic, rustic atmosphere awaits at chef Reimund

Brunner‘s “Anna Stuben”. High-quality ingredients

are transformed into small works of art.

Vidalong Straße, 3, 39046 St. Ulrich Gröden

T: +39 0471 796315, gardena.it

LÖWENGRUBE

One of the oldest restaurants in the city impresses

with creative cuisine and an atmosphere that has

something for everyone: from a trendy lounge to a

historic dining room or a rustic wine cellar.

Zollstange 3, 39100 Bozen

T: +39 0471 970032, loewengrube.it

STAFLER

At the Stafler Hotel and Restaurant, you can choose

between rustic local fare and fine dining, Alto

Adige style. Michelin-starred chef Peter Girtler is

known for his ambitious blend of flavors.

Via Mules, 10, 39040 Freienfeld bei Sterzing

Tel. +39 0472 771136 stafler.com

HOTELS

Wellness with a view: The COMO Alpina

Dolomites grants amazing panoramas

from their indoor- and outdoor pool.

COMO ALPINA DOLOMITES

The unbeatable location of this five-star hotel on

the Seiser Alm allows you to start your winter

vacation in a relaxed manner: slopes for downhill

skiing, snowboarding, and cross-country skiing are

all right outside. The wellness area is ideal for

recharging your batteries after a long day.

Via Compatsch, 62/3, Alpe di Siusi, Seiser Alm,

39040 Castelrotto, Kastelruth,

T: +39 0471 796, 004 comohotels.com

AMAN ROSA ALPINA

The luxurious Aman Rosa Alpina hotel reinterprets

classic Alpine elegance and, following extensive

renovation, presents itself as the ideal retreat for

all seasons. The restaurant invites guests on a

culinary journey – from traditional Alpine delicacies

to popular Italian classics.

Micurà-de-Rü-Strasse 20, 39036 Abtei

T: +39 0471 849500, rosalpina.it

<

Photos:The COMO Alpina Dolomites (2)


www.wagrain-kleinarl.at

travel / ALTO ADIGE

Suinsom marries Alpine and

Mediterranean influences, combining the

flavors of the mountains and the sea.

indoor pool, while panoramic outdoor pool guarantees

a dramatic view of the snow-tipped peaks.

Str. Nives 11, 39048 Wolkenstein in Gröden

T: +39 0471 795210, hotelgranbaita.com

LÜSNERHOF

A cozy hotel at an altitude of 1,100 meters in a

wonderfully peaceful setting, nature is palpable in

this retreat. The spa offerings reflect the natural

bounty of Alto Adige, as does the restaurant, where

all dishes are prepared exclusively with regional

and seasonal products from the surrounding area.

Runggerstraße 20, 39040 Lüsen

T +39 0472 413633, luesnerhof.it

ALPIN PANORAMA HOTEL HUBERTUS

The spa at the Alpin Panorama Hotel Hubertus is

an absolute must: it seemingly floats upside down

above the landscape. Akin to a bird‘s nest, you can

see the surrounding mountains from up high, and

the large glass fronts let you feel like part of

nature. In the kitchen, Antonio Triscari conjures up

creations that melt in your mouth.

Furkelstraße 5, 39030 Geiselsberg - Olang

T: +39 0474 592114, hotel-hubertus.com

<

LEFAY RESORT & SPA DOLOMITI

Located in a quiet part of Trentino, this hotel is an

ideal retreat with a large spa area. The tall glass

fronts are particularly impressive in winter, as they

dramatically frame the view of the sunset over the

mountains.

Via Alpe di Grual 16, 38086 Pinzolo

T: +39 0465 768800, dolomiti.lefayresorts.com

GARBERHOF

With an eye on the ancient architectural history of

the Vinschgau Valley, this hotel has been carefully

and sensitively modernized in the local traditional

style. Head chef Christian Lechthale serves Mediterranean-Alpine

masterpieces paired with fine

wines from the well-stocked wine cellar.

Staatsstraße 25, SS40, 25, 39024 Malles Venosta

T: +39 0473 831399, garberhof.com

fantastic cuisine, the ski slopes start right outside

the front door.

Palmschoß 22, 39042 Brixen

T: +39 0472 521008, forestis.it

HOTEL GRANBAITA

Thanks to new annexes and several modernizations,

this five-star hotel has achieved a good balance

between contemporary architecture and a cozy

alpine atmosphere. The spa area has a 31-meter

ALPINE LODGES

BERGHÜTTE OBERHOLZ

The Berghütte Oberholz lies at the foot of the

impressive Latemar rock formation. The menu

focuses on regional specialties, with a well-stocked

wine list. Easily reachable via the adjacent Oberholz

chairlift from Obereggen.

39050 Deutschnofen

T: +39 0471 618299, oberholz.com/berghuette

FUCIADE RIFUGIO

A lodge and gourmet paradise in the heart of the

Dolomites. Chef Martino sources his ingre-

<

ANDERS MOUNTAIN SUITES

Up 1,850 meters, Alto Adige hospitality meets

urban architecture. The heart of this designer

retreat with seven suites is an open-plan lounge

featuring a fireplace, a bar, and the restaurant area.

Each of the large apartments is two-stories high,

offering plenty of space.

Kreuztal, 4, 39042 Bressanone

T: +39 320 3911392, anders-suites.com

FORESTIS DOLOMITES

A five-star hideaway at 1,800 meters above sea

level, Forestis Dolomites showcases the art of simplicity

with sustainable construction and minimalist

aesthetics. Located in the middle of a dense

mountain forest with views of the Dolomites and

The Sofie Hütte serves local treats at 2,410

meters above sea level.

Photos: Sofie Hütte, provided


SCHLOSS FREUDENSTEIN

WHERE TIMELESS ELEGANCE MEETS

PR IVATE LUXURY

An intimate retreat where centuries of history embrace the quiet

pleasures of contemporary refinement through its hotel, restaurant &

bistrot, and bespoke events & wellness experiences.

A boutique escape for stays featuring gourmet experiences and

moments of wellness in our spa overlooking the vineyards.


Arefuge suspended in time, where

elegance is whispered and luxury

is revealed in the details.

Amid intimate and harmonious

spaces, every gesture of hospitality is designed

to create a truly unique experience.

Our 16 iconic suites capture the essence of

minimalist design, where comfort, style,

and art blend in perfect harmony.

The sensory journey continues through

the culinary experiences offered by our bistro

and restaurant, weaving together

authentic local flavors with contemporary

visions. The wellness spa completes a stay

that deeply rejuvenates both body and

mind. A boutique escape for stays fea-

turing gourmet experiences

and moments of

wellness in our spa overlooking

the vineyards. For reservations, please contact

our concierge. Schloss Freudenstein is

an exceptional venue for private events

and exclusive moments. The estate is part

of a refined collection of residences, including

Ansitz Zinnenberg, ideal for romantic

weddings and intimate celebrations. We

also offer the possibility to host private

gourmet events in complete privacy, supported

by a team of expert planners who

take care of every detail. Here, beauty,

seclusion, and impeccable service come

together seamlessly, creating a timeless

experience for every guest. Every

visit is though tfully curated to leave

a lasting impression, making each

moment truly unforgettable.

INFO

SCHLOSS FREUDENSTEIN

Matschatscherweg 6,

Eppan an der Weinstraße - Südtirol (BZ)

info@schlossfreudenstein.com

+39 0471 661308


travel / ALTO ADIGE

<

dients locally, and his dishes are influenced

by Ladin tradition, which he combines with Italian

classics to create unusual delights. Cozy and

inviting rooms.

Passo San Pellegrino, 38030 Soraga

T: +39 0462 574281, fuciade.it

JORA HÜTTE

Chef Markus Holzer is synonymous with high altitude

fine dining at 1,325 meters above sea level.

He learned the regional approach from Norbert

Niederkofler, so local classics such as Speckknödel

are made with the finest ingredients. Special theme

nights take place twice a week.

Am Erschbann 6, 39038 Innichen Hochpustertal

T: +39 335 6561256, jora.it

COMICI HÜTTE

Dolce Vita in the mountains! Fresh fish from Grado

and hand-picked mountain herbs meet champagne.

Snow-white tablecloths and rustic wood paneling.

The cellar holds the finest wines from the

best vineyards. Enjoy them surrounded by the

incomparable mountain panorama at the foot of

the legendary Langkofel.

Plan de Gralba 24,

39048 Selva di Val Gardena

T: +39 0471 1930388, rifugiocomici.com

The Hotel Granbaita strikes a winning

balance between contemporary

architecture and a cozy, alpine feel.

RAUCHHÜTTE

Open since 1965, this lodge on the Alpe di Siusi

serves homemade, regional cuisine in a cozy alpine

restaurant with mountain views. Famous for its

traditional dishes, Mediterranean

delicacies, and steaks, the Rauchhütte‘s sommelier

is always happy to recommend the perfect wine for

your meal.

Saltria 29, 39040 Seiser Alm (BZ)

T: +39 0471 727830

rauchhuette.com

<

FIVE

HIGHLIGHTS

THE BEST SKI SLOPE

Nine kilometers of ideal conditions with

a view of the Dolomites: the Trametsch

on the Plose massif is an experience.

THE BEST VIEWING PLATFORM

The Iceman Ötzi Peak towers over the

Grawandspitze on the Schnalstal Glacier

at 3,251 meters. It’s only a ten-minute

walk from the cable car station.

schnalstal.com

THE BEST SLED RUN

The Rosskopf is Italy‘s longest sled run

with lots of twists and turns. A 900-meter

drop over ten kilometers, floodlit

every Friday until midnight.

BEST DINNER WITH A VIEW

Sitting atop Kronplatz like a futuristic

crown, theAlpiNN is a great way to experience

Norbert Niederkofler‘s sustainable

cuisine. alpinn.it

FOUL WEATHER ALTERNATIVE

Designed by Zaha Hadid, the amazing

building alone is worth a visit to the

Messner Mountain Museum, which is

dedicated to the history of

alpinism.

Photos: Lefay Resort & SPA Dolomiti, Werner Dejori


HOTEL GOLDENER BERG

ECO LUXURY AT 1700M

Your premium boutique hotel in Oberlech, right on the Arlberg slopes and

surrounded by breathtaking mountain serenity – Hotel Goldener Berg.

ADVERTORIAL Pictures: Stefan Heimpel; provided

Breathe in the crisp mountain air

and let the magic of the Arlberg

embrace you. Perched high above

Lech, car-free and ski-in/ski-out,

Hotel Goldener Berg is your gateway to a

dream winter escape. Nestled in the largest

skiing area in Austria, enjoy seamless access

to an extensive network of slopes right from

our doorstep.

A TASTE OF THE ALPS

Start your day with our extensive breakfast

buffet, offering homemade jams, fresh

breads, and local delicacies to fuel your outdoor

adventures.

After skiing, unwind on large patios above

the rooftops of Lech with »slow food«

delights or indulge in our »dine around«

half-board. Choose from six distinctive res-

taurants: vegetarian fine dining, Austrian

specialties, modern health cuisine, or traditional

fondue. Afterwards, relax with a drink

at the cozy bar or explore one of the largest

wine cellars in Austria.

Rejuvenate in our expansive Alpine Spa, a

haven of relaxation and well-being. Immerse

yourself in the indoor and outdoor pools,

unwind in three saunas, or center your mind

with yoga. Our extensive wellness offerings,

including unique energy treatments, ensure

deep rejuvenation.

As an eco-certified hotel, we combine

luxury with environmental awareness, ensuring

your stay supports a sustainable future.

Experience Austrian hospitality at its

finest and embrace winter at its best!

INFO

Hotel Goldener Berg

Oberlech 117, A-6764 Lech am Arlberg

Tel. +43 5583 22050

happy@goldenerberg.at

goldenerberg.at


WHERE WINTER

FEELS WARM

Between vineyards and Dolomites, Klausen in South Tyrol slows the

pace-fine wine, true cuisine, and a winter touched by warmth.


KLAUSEN – SOUTH TYROL (IT)

ADVERTORIAL Pictures: © Thomas Rötting, Tobias Kaser, provided

In South Tyrol, Italy’s northernmost

region, winter feels different.

The Alps open to the south, and light

lingers longer here – soft, golden,

with a hint of the Mediterranean. In the

heart of this region lies Klausen, a small

town framed by vineyards, medieval lanes,

and the pale rock of the Dolomites. It is a

place where snow and sun meet, and where

calm carries warmth.

High above, on the mountain pastures,

the view stretches endlessly – white slopes,

wooden huts, and the Dolomites rising in

quiet grandeur. The air is crisp, the stillness

deep. Yet inside the huts, the fire glows and

life feels full. A bowl of barley soup, handmade

dumplings, a slice of buckwheat cake

– flavours that speak of mountain soil and

family kitchens. A glass of South Tyrolean

white wine, perhaps a Sylvaner or Kerner,

completes the moment: elegant, mineral,

unmistakably from here.

Klausen’s charm lies in its balance. Deeply

rooted in the mountains, yet open to

the South. The cuisine blends authenticity

and lightness, the lifestyle carries warmth

and ease.

Each season has its own rhythm – in

spring, the vineyards bloom and the air

smells of new beginnings; in summer, trails

lead across flowered alpine pastures and

the days glow with light; in autumn, forests

and vines turn golden and the valley shines

in colour; and in winter, a quiet brightness

settles over it all, resting gently on the vines

below.

Life moves slowly but never still – a quiet

balance between clarity and comfort. Here,

winter isn’t something to get through – it’s

something to embrace. A season of harmony,

where stillness holds flavour and light

feels like an invitation to stay.

With its sweeping view of the Dolomites,

Klausen glows in soft winter light – where

alpine calm meets the warmth of the South.

INFO

klausen.it

dec–feb 2026

falstaff 233

travel / AUSTRIAN ALPS

The Hotel Alpenstern in the

Bregenzerwald offers ski-in/ski-out

convenience in one of the snowiest

areas in the world.

Photo: Martin Morscher


ALPINE

PERFECTION

Perfect powder on the pistes, endless cross-country trails, sleigh rides, and

world-class cuisine: Austria‘s winter sports regions offer endless bliss.

TEXT KLAUS HÖFLER

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

235


One of only a few 5-star

superior hotels in Austria, the

Trofana Royal in Ischgl serves

exceptional cuisine in the

Paznaunerstube.

A

ustria is closer to heaven

than most places. Just go to

the Arlberg, where a short

ride in a cozy little cable car

brings you to the summit of

the Valluga: At a dizzying 2,800 meters above

sea level, it’s the highest station in the

entire ski region and the starting point for

one of the most legendary freeride descents

in the Alps. For comparison, Scandinavia‘s

highest mountain, Galdhøpiggen, is “only”

2,469 meters high.

The Valluga is not the only superlative

experience found around the Arlberg. With

a total of over 300 kilometers of marked

runs and over 200 kilometers of off-piste

The Hotel Goldener Berg in Oberlech offers

ski-in/ski-out convenience right on the slopes.

skiing, it’s the largest

contiguous ski area in

Austria. The culinary

delights on offer are also

world-class: The village

of Lech has the highest

density of award-winning

restaurants per resident in

the world. Despite a population

of only 1,600, there are

currently 18 restaurants with a top

Falstaff rating: Seven restaurants with

four Falstaff forks and eleven with threeforks,

including the Johannesstübli at the

Hotel Goldener Berg and the legendary

Burg in Oberlech, where the gourmet

Photos:Trofana Royal, Stefan Heimpel



menus at Lechtaler

Stube are complemented

by a

60,000-bottle wine

cellar including 4,500

rare vintages.

The Rote Wand in Zug is

another exceptional establishment:

Its Schualhus is a garden of

culinary delights, and their Chef‘s Table is

the playground of Julian Stieger, who honed

his skills in Copenhagen (Geranium), New

York (Eleven Madison Park), and Vienna

(Steirereck). Or you can head to St. Anton,

home to the Verwallstube, Europe’s highest

award-winning restaurant: At 2,085 meters

above sea level, its dining room is almost

level with Sweden’s highest mountain,

Kebnekaise (2,096 meters).

HIDEAWAYS IN THE SKY

That’s far from all: Exceptional hospitality

can be found all over the Austrian Alps.

West of the Arlberg you’ll find the Alpenstern

in Damüls, a haven in the Bregenzerwald

which offers ski-in/ski-out access to

one of the most abundantly snowy areas in

the Alps. Westerly winds make the clouds

linger on the peak of the Mittagsspitze,

dropping delicate flakes like powdered

sugar. Once named the snowiest village in

the world, Damüls locals can even measure

time by how much snow has fallen.

Snow is a very familiar friend east of the

Arlberg as well. In Ischgl, the ski lifts climb

to over 2,800 meters, dropping you off in

an otherworldly, high-altitude landscape

where Austria ends and Switzerland begins.

The stretch between Semnaun and Ischgl

used to be a popular smuggler’s route where

cigarettes, coffee, tobacco, and nylon

stockings were brought past customs in

heavy backpacks; today you’ll find “duty

free” signs along the 60-kilometer-route

instead. Currently offering 240 kilometers

of pistes, Ischgl lives up to its reputation for

glamorous après-ski lodges, international

pop concerts, and top-rated gourmet restaurants.

Hotels like the Seiblishof and the Trofana

Royal are first-class retreats: The

Seiblishof is right by the Silvrettabahn and

combines rustic Tyrolean style with modern

amenities, while the Trofana Royal is one of

The Arlberg boasts the largest contiguous

ski area in Austria. Inset: Hotel Alpenstern in

Damüls serves exceptional local cuisine.

THE STRETCH

BETWEEN SEMNAUN

AND ISCHGL USED TO

BE A POPULAR

SMUGGLER’S RUN, BUT

TODAY, “DUTY FREE”

SIGNS LINE THE ROUTE

TO SWITZERLAND.

the few 5-star superior hotels in Austria and

famous for serving outstanding cuisine in

the Paznaunerstube restaurant.

TYROLEAN MAGIC

Away from the hustle and bustle, the

Interalpen Tyrol near Telfs offers luxury and

wellness that are equally stellar. Featuring a

5,400-square-meter spa, an award-winning

Chef‘s Table, winter hiking trails right

outside the front door, and the slopes of the

Patscherkofel and the cross-country skiing

paradise of Seefeld nearby, no wish remains

unfulfilled. Even the Zillertal valley is only

an hour’s drive away, where a total of 544

kilometers of prepared pistes – the

<

Photos: Vorarlberg Tourismus/Josef Mallaun, Mia Feline


Time for

parents to relax

-

Adults only

And even

more

Familytime


The Hotel Sonnenhof (inset) in the

Tannheimer Tal has one of the best wine

lists in the world., while the Zillertal

(below) offers over 544 kilometers

of prepared pistes and fantastic

accomodations like the Neuhaus

(bottom).

<

distance between Oslo

and Stockholm – are spread

out on both sides of the

valley between Fügen,

Mayrhofen, and Tux.

Here, nature and gourmet

delights combine to create the

ultimate mountain experience.

Located high above Kaltenbach,

the Wedelhütte has established an

“alpine balcony”: You’ll find several sun

terraces with a view of the peaks where

you can enjoy home-cured salmon or

dry-aged steaks, with accompaniment

granted by Austria‘s highest wine cellar at

2,350 meters above sea level. Hotels like

Neuhaus in Mayrhofen offer the perfect

accomodation, as does the newly renovated

Pachmair in Uderns: Over 500 years

old, the house was first mentioned

in 1453 and continues to pamper its

guests to this day.

POWDER PARADISE

Further east, the merger of the ski regions

of Reiteralm, Planai, Hochwurzen, and

Hauser Kaibling around Schladming in

Styria has created a colorful cavalcade of

steep slopes and family runs, rustic lodges

and fine alpine cuisine, spectacular

viewpoints and fast sled runs. Even better,

the local ski lift pass is also valid for ski

resorts in neighboring Salzburg such as

Großarl, which also spans the entire valley:

If you start from the summit of the

Kreuzkogel, you can either head down to

Dorfgastein or back to the Großarl Valley,

as the two areas are connected. In between,

dozens of rustic ski lodges and establishments

like the Großarlerhof or Moar-Gut

invite you to stop for a bite.

The Panorama Link cable car connects

the nearby ski resorts of Wagrain with

Kleinarl and Flachauwinkl, while the

G-Link connects the Grießenkareck and

Grafenberg ski slopes, allowing you to

move between them as the bird flies.

Beyond the slopes, romantics can enjoy a

horse-drawn sleigh ride in Wagrain-Kleinarl:

wrapped up in warm blankets, you

glide and jolt through the pristine, white

clearings of the Kleinarltal valley towards

the tranquil Lake Jägersee. The very

definition of winter enchantment.

Photos: Zillertal Tourismus/Christoph Johann, Hotel Neuhaus, Radomir Gabric


<

ADDRESSES

GENIESSERSTUBE

Maximilian Stock presents his “Alpine Taste” philosophy

in the exclusive dining room of the Hotel Alpenhof, serving

exquisite dishes made with regional produce – from meat to

Alpine shrimp.

Hintertux 750, 6293 Tux

T: +43 5287 8550, alpenhof.at

GRIGGELER STUBA

Crab, quail, lobster, or venison with Asian aromas– the

dishes served by Sebastian Jakob‘s team in the elegant

wood-paneled dining room are legendary. They are accompanied

by one of the best wine lists in the world.

Oberlech 568, 6764 Lech

T: +43 5583 3140, burgvitalresort.com

GOURMETRESTAURANT STÜVA IM HOTEL YSCLA

Only the best is good enough for Benjamin Parth‘s exclusive,

world-class cuisine. French classics (those sauces!) and

cosmopolitan modernity define the focused menus.

Dorfstraße 73, 6561 Ischgl

T: +43 5444 5275, yscla.at

LECHTALER STUBE

Fine regional produce and game from their own hunting

grounds are the perfect accompaniment to the treasures from

their spectacular wine cellar. Under Hermann Lankmaier, rare

delicacies are celebrated – and even served on the sun terrace.

Oberlech 266, 6764 Lech

T: +43 5583 2291, burghotel-lech.com

PAZNAUNERSTUBE IM HOTEL TROFANA ROYAL

Since 1997, the Sieberers have showcased culinary

Tyrolean understatement with a glimpse into the world‘s great

cuisines. Breton lobster, French pigeon, sea bass: all first-class.


+43 5444 600, trofana-royal.at

ROTE WAND CHEF’S TABLE

In a class of its own, even for Arlberg: Julian Stieger presents

the ultimate in flavor, produce, and culinary craftsmanship

over 20 courses. The wine tasting is an experience, numerous

innovative ideas thanks to their Food Lab.

Zug 5, 6764 Lech

T: +43 5583 3450, rotewand.com

SCHLOSSHERRNSTUBE IM SCHLOSSHOTEL ISCHGL

Tradition and a laid-back atmosphere are just as important

to thee dining experience here as chef Patrick Raaß’s

artistry with turbot, caviar, saddle of venison, and curd cheese

soufflé.


T: +43 5444 5633, schlosshotel-ischgl.com

WUNDERKAMMER

A high-end version of an Austrian trattoria at the Hotel

Almhof Schneider: Underscoring their commitment to

excellence is one of the most spectacular drinks menus

(Sommelier of the Year!) in the country. Very successful

interior design. Tannberg 59, 6764 Lech

T: +43 5583 3500, almhof.at

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

241


<

CHEF’S TABLE IM BERGFRIED

Sebastian Stock serves a diverse and

creative nine-course tasting menu with accompanying

beverages at his Chef‘s Table. From the

visually stunning amuse-bouche to dessert, it

keeps you in suspense until the very end.

Lanersbach 483, 6293 Tux

T: +43 5287 87239, bergfried.at

DIE TISCHLEREi

Creative cuisine crafted from nature’s

bounty – from lakes, sea, meadow and forest.

Asian influences also occasionally shine through.

With four menus to choose from, the selection

is plentiful.

Roseggerstraße 676, 8970 Schladming

T: +43 3687 22192, dietischlerei.co.at

H 1117

High-altitude fine dining at the Hotel Höflehner

with views across half of the Enns Valley.

Christian Spreitz pampers guests with his own

regional philosophy and creative flair. 300 wines

await in the cellar.

Gumpenberg 2, 8967 Haus/Ennstal

T: +43 3686 2548

hoeflehner.com

LAMARKSTUBE

TV chef Alexander Fankhauser is responsible

for the reimagined Tyrolean dishes. The

well-stocked wine cellar complements his

sophisticated, refined cuisine.

Hochfügen 34, 6264 Fügenberg

T: +43 5280225, lamark.at

The legendary Burg Hotel in

Oberlech has an extensive

spa area.

LUTHER ALPENBRAS-

SERIE

A new culinary hotspot in

Schladming, where Celine and

Patrick Sit-Vrece serve regional fare

with a Mediterranean twist. You can

taste his previous experience in top-flight

establishments (Fabios, Ritz Carlton Vienna).

Hauptplatz 34, 8970 Schladming

T: +43 36872058, luther-restaurant.at

INTERALPEN

The luxury resort Interalpen-Hotel Tyrol has

enough dining rooms to cater to everyone. Their

varied menus range from goulash soup and fine

risotto to New York cheesecake.

Hans-Liebherr-Alpenstraße 1, 6410 Telfs

T: +43 5080 930, interalpen.com

URSPRUNG – RESTAURANT & WEINBAR

Venison burgers, homemade pasta with truffles,

and Kaiserschmarren – regional delicacies

taste twice as good with a glass of wine on

Ursprung’s sun terrace with a view of the Paznaun

Alps.


T: +43 5444 5232, post-ischgl.com

VERWALLSTUBE

Even the journey to the Verwallstube, up at

over 2,000 meters above sea level, is worthwhile.

The French-inspired cuisine made from premium

ingredients is truly impressive. Exquisite wines.

Galzig Bergstation, 6580 St. Anton am Arlberg

T: +43 5446 2352510, verwallstube.at

The Interalpen Hotel

Tyrol in Telfs has

multiple dining

rooms and an

award-winning

Chef’s Table.

STIAR

Kai Lindner brings together what goes well

together: diverse, aromatic Asian cuisine and the art

of charcoal grilling. Soups, bowls, salads, and pasta

dishes also enjoy an exotic touch.

Persuttweg 24

6561 Ischgl

T: +43 5444 5223, stiar.at

WEDELHÜTTE

Whether regional Zillertal cabbage dumplings,

Wedel-style modern beef tartare, a veggie burger,

vegan curry goulash, or a fine dining menu in the

gourmet lounge, the impressive view is a standard

accompaniment to cool drinks and fine wines.

Hochzillertal, 6272 Kaltenbach

T: +43 676 88632577, wedelhuette.at

ALMMONTE 96

Tired skiers can rest their muscles in the elegant

suites of the Präclarum design hotel and

recharge their batteries for the next day with juicy

steaks in the restaurant.

Widmoosweg 3, 5602 Wagrain

T: +43 6413 7286, almmonte.com

GENUSSWERKSTATT

The restaurant at Sportresidenz Zillertal offers

a different six-course menu every evening, along

with international and regional delicacies. Every

Wednesday, sushi variations take center stage.

Golfstraße 1, 6271 Uderns

T: +43 5288 63000508, die-genuss-werkstatt.at

JAGASTUB’N IM GROSSARLER HOF

The word “Alps” is omnipresent here: in this

Small Luxury Hotel‘s ambiance, and in the kitchen,

which utilizes ingredients ranging from local game

to Alpine herbs.

Unterbergstraße 76, 5611 Großarl

T: +43 6414 8384, grossarlerhof.at

ROCKY7 IM ZILLERGRUNDROCK

Alexander Hönigsberger‘s cuisine is contemporary,

creative, and sustainable. Presented in the elegant

yet informal setting of Rocky7, choose between

eight- and six-course menus (vegetarian

options available).

Zillergrund 903, 6290 Mayrhofen

T: +43 5285 62377, zillergrund.at

SIRLOIN GRILL & DINE

The steakhouse is a culinary highlight at the

Hotel Edelweiss, featuring an open kitchen with a

grill so you can watch your choice sizzle. Wagyu

from Goldegg, a perfect variety of cuts.

Unterbergstraße 65, 5611 Großarl

T: +43 6414 3000, edelweiss-grossarl.com

<

Photos: Kirchgasser Photography, Michael Königshofer



SKICIRCUS SAALBACH HINTERGLEMM LEOGANG FIEBERBRUNN

WINTER HOW IT

SHOULD BE

Powder snow, sunshine and a genuine sense of joy: the Skicircus Saalbach

Hinterglemm Leogang Fieberbrunn offers a blend of sports activities and laid-back

relaxation for anyone looking to experience winter in all its glory.

WHITE PEARL

MOUNTAIN DAYS

in the Skicircus

Saalbach Hinterglemm

Leogang Fieberbrunn

presented by Visa

from 20 to 29

March 2026

After a day of skiing in the Skicircus Saalbach

Hinterglemm Leogang Fieberbrunn, you can enjoy

popular mountain hut classics such as schnitzel

and kaiserschmarrn to recharge your batteries.

ADVERTORIAL Pictures: © saalbach.com, Georg Lindbacher (2), Moritz Ablinger (1)

Here in the Skicircus Saalbach Hinterglemm

Leogang Fieberbrunn,

winter is a big deal – yet the lifestyle

is still very easy-going.

MORE THAN JUST SKIING

270 kilometres of varied slopes and 70 state-of-the-art

lifts combine sporting challenges

with relaxed enjoyment.

Anyone who visits the Skicircus will

immediately understand why it’s more than

just a ski resort: it is a way of life between

mountain moments and refreshment stops.

From the first descent on perfectly groomed

slopes to the last stop for an afternoon

treat – enjoyment is simply part of the experience

here. Whether in a rustic alpine hut

serving regional classics or a modern mountain

lodge offering creative cuisine:

authentic flavours and a relaxed atmos-

phere go hand in hand. Around 60 huts

invite you to enjoy the moment – with

warm hospitality, good food and the feeling

of being in exactly the right place. If you

fancy a break from skiing, you can enjoy

winter hiking, relax in the wellness area or

have a leisurely drink at the bar.

From snowshoeing through snow-covered

forests and tobogganing under the stars to

yoga with mountain views, the Skicircus

proves that winter is about much more than

just the slopes. After a day filled with outdoor

activities, it’s easy to find relaxation in

one of the many cosy hotels.

Here, all is fair and nothing is mandatory

– the main thing is that it feels right.

This is what winter feels like in the Skicircus

Saalbach Hinterglemm Leogang Fieberbrunn

when you’re simply enjoying life: it’s

natural, heartfelt and unforgettable.

INFO

Discover the direct flights from Scandinavia &

the Baltics to Salzburg: skicircus.saalbach.com

dec–feb 2026

falstaff 243

GASTRONOMY

recommends

Featuring ratings by our readers, our Restaurant Guide

Nordics offers a comprehensive overview of the 440

best restaurants in Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Finland,

and the Baltics. These entries have impressed the

Falstaff community and are warmly recommended.

For more Nordic restaurant ratings, visit falstaff.com.

An intimate journey

for the senses

Step into Restaurant domæne, where

each visit becomes a journey. Surrounded

by the tranquil woods of Gødstrup,

our premises blend into the landscape,

offering a calm yet elevated setting

for your dining experience. Under

Head Chef Jens Vincent Hoff Olsen’s

guidance, the kitchen ennobles

the purest ingredients through an

elegantly minimalist, Nordic-meets-

French approach. Every dish is crafted

with care, every flavor deliberately

composed. Our sommelier-led drinks

list celebrates distinctive European

wines, artful non-alcoholic creations,

while our thoughtful service values

comfort over formality. Whether you

join us for a special evening or are

simply seeking something different,

Restaurant domæne invites you to

linger longer and return often.

RESTAURANT DOMÆNE

92 points in the Falstaff

Restaurant Guide Nordics

Gødstrupvej 62

7400 Herning

T: +45 7025 2326

restaurantdomaene.dk

BELLIES, A journey

through Stavanger’s

plant kingdom

At Bellies, premium plant-based

cuisine takes center stage. Our

kitchen explores the bounty of

Western Norway, transforming local

vegetables, mushrooms and foraged

ingredients into vibrant, modern dishes.

The tasting menus shift with the

seasons, offering a thoughtful and

playful journey through Stavanger’s

plant kingdom. With a warm atmosphere

and a focus on craftsmanship,

Bellies celebrates sustainable dining

rooted in Nordic terroir. The menu

changes depending on season and

availability, and the restaurant excels

at using Asian flavors like Szechuan

pepper and ssamjang, earning it a

Michelin recommendation.

BELLIES



Støperigata 6

4014 Stavanger, Norway

T: +47 940 77955

bellies.no

244

falstaff dec–feb 2026

Restaurang ÄNG

At ÄNG, we have the freedom to

explore cultures and culinary techniques

from around the world, but

we never truly leave home.

In the heart of Halland

We work mostly with what’s right

outside our door, refining it to its

greatest potential. Many of our

ingredients are freshly picked from

nearby forests, beaches, and fields

every morning.

Right next to ÄNG lies Ästad

Vingård, an organic Scandinavian

vineyard we collaborate with to continuously

add new wines to our cellar.

For accommodation, Ästad Vingård

offers several different room types to

choose from during your visit.

ÄNG



Ästad 10

432 77 Tvååker, Sweden

T: +46 340 46061

restaurangang.se

A taste of Northern

Norway

Espen Ramnestedt and his Swedishborn

wife, Eva Linda Ramnestedt,

have been running Restaurant Smak

in Tromsø since 2017, after previously

operating it in Bodø from 2010. Their

cuisine is both a showcase and a

celebration of the ingredients of

Northern Norway.

The menu follows the seasons

and changes every other week.

Espen’s culinary craftsmanship is

combined with Eva Linda’s hospitality

and expertise, together offering

you a fantastic culinary experience.

The small and cozy restaurant

serves both a small and large menu

consisting mainly of local ingredients

and has been popular with locals and

visitors alike for years.

RESTAURANT SMAK AS



Stakkevollvegen 39

9010 Tromsø, Norway

T: +47 77 677 74

restaurant-smak.no

ADVERTORIAL Pictures: Marius Fiskum (2), Mads Krabbe Fotografi, Marius Fiskum, Andrea Rocha, provided (3)

Thy on a plate

At Restaurant TRI on the Danish West

Coast town of Agger, Chef Nicolas

Min Jørgensen has created a menu

so deeply rooted in the region that

you can taste the land, waters, and

seasons found just outside the door.

The North Sea, the fjord, and the

lakes and wilderness of Thy National

Park surrounding Agger — this is the

taste of TRI. In summer, you’ll find

the light flavors of freshly caught

fish, seafood, and beach herbs; in

winter, wild game, pickled berries,

and vegetables. We work closely

with nature and local producers to

create a special TRI dining experience

for our guests.

Enjoy an ever-changing menu that

reflects nature and the seasons of this

unique part of Denmark — less than

two hours from Aalborg and Billund

airports.

RESTAURANT TRI



Vesterhavsvej 5a

7770 Vestervig, Denmark

T: +45 2270 7999

restaurant-tri.com

Seasonal dishes,

local excellence

Ruda Mat & Vin opened in March

2024 in new premises at Kræmer

Brygge in Tromsø, fulfilling the

longtime dream of owners Eva-Linda

and Espen of running a restaurant

that emphasizes local, flavorful

food, excellent drinks, and first-class

service, all in a relaxed atmosphere.

The focus is always on local

ingredients sourced from outstanding

nearby farmers, and they take

pride in presenting these top-quality

products to their guests.

Head chef Roghell, who trained as

Espen’s apprentice, brings his own

expertise and passion to the kitchen,

continuing the restaurant’s commitment

to culinary excellence.

Their philosophy is simple: happy,

satisfied guests give them energy and

make everything worthwhile.

RUDA



Stakkevollvegen 39

9010 Tromsø, Norway

T: +47 77 670111

ruda.no



GASTRONOMY

Kajo, a complete dining

experience in Tampere

At the core of Kajo’s practice is the

courage to innovate and create

some thing new. Their concept has

a strong foundation in responsibility

and sustainability. Pure flavors, bold

combinations and warm service take

guests on an unforgettable journey

of the senses. Their “Ode to Nature”

menu serves the best produce the

season has to offer. With the support

of producers and constant curiosity,

Kajo ensures that they never stop

learning and evolving. The aim is to

gain experience with each season‘s

ingredients, discovering new cooking

methods and making full use of byproducts.

The origins of the menu can

be traced back to the world outside

the kitchen – living in the moment,

listening to music and surrounded by

nature.

KAJO RESTAURANT



Rautatienkatu 12

33100 Tampere, Finland

T: +358 50 3298044

kajoravintola.fi

An Urban Cantonese

Experience with Soul

A modern take on Cantonese cuisine,

served in a warm and vibrant

atmosphere. Behind the kitchen is

Will King Smith, who reinterprets

classic dishes such as crispy Peking

duck and handmade dim sum with

personality and finesse. Take a

seat at the bar with views into the

kitchen to experience the energy up

close or settle into the cozy sofas

and round tables in the restaurant

itself. Weekends bring festive energy,

innovative award-winning cocktails,

and a kitchen that stays open late into

the night. Goldfinch is perfect both for

a casual weekday dinner and for an

evening where the mood lingers long

after dessert. All dishes are meant

for sharing, and you’ll probably want

three or four per person – if you can

manage to limit yourself to that.

GOLDFINCH



Kongens Nytorv 8

1050 Copenhagen, Denmark

T: +45 31 646661

goldfinch.dk

A Modern Taste of Local

Heritage with a View

Situated in the old harbor police

station, Head Chef Peter Yung and his

team bring new life to this beloved

local restaurant with modern, creative

cuisine deeply rooted in Danish seasonal

produce. Yung’s past stints in both

leading Danish international restaurants

has shaped his style, which is

both classic and playful – with dishes

that combine precision, personality,

and a love for global flavors mixed

with classic French cooking tradition.

Here, pike-perch ceviche shares the

plate with jalapeños, chulpe corn, and

coriander, and aromatic truffles top a

crunchy papadam. The menu offers

small sharing plates, grilled fish and

seafood, and seasonal ingredients

from coasts and fields – all served

with a view of boats drifting by just

outside the window.

KANALEN



Wilders Plads 2


T: +45 32 951330

restaurant-kanalen.dk

A House of Culinary Craft

and Artful Calm

In the heart of Bredgade lies Salon –

a house where French gastronomy,

Danish lunch tradition, and modern

art come together in vibrant harmony.

Here, Head Chef Julian Elkjær

continues the legacy of Claus

“Røde” Christensen with classic

haute cuisine craftsmanship, refined

technique, and signature dishes such

as “The Whale” – turbot and lobster

wrapped in buttery, crisp puff pastry

and served with an intense bisque.

The interior is classic and understatedly

luxurious, with an impressive

Danish art collection on the walls, soft

candlelight, and an air of calm and

intimacy. In addition to the restaurant,

the house also features three private

salons, offering room for more intimate

dinners, celebrations, or discreet

business conversations.

SALON



Bredgade 63


T: +45 33 151060

saloncph.dk

ADVERTORIAL Pictures: provided (7)



180° BY MATTHIAS DIETHER

ESTONIA’S CULINARY

LANDMARK

At 180° by Matthias Diether, craftsmanship, emotion, and precision meet in

flawless harmony. Led by Chef Matthias Diether, whose career has been defined

by an unrelenting pursuit of perfection, the restaurant stands as Estonia’s

most acclaimed fine dining destination.


Born in Berlin, Matthias brought

his deep-rooted culinary heritage

to Estonia nine years ago. Before

that, he ran his own Michelinstarred

restaurant in Germany, holding the

distinction for eight consecutive years.

When the Michelin Guide first arrived in

Estonia in 2022, 180° was among only two

restaurants to earn a star – and today, it

proudly remains the only two-star restaurant

in the Baltic States.

Adding to its honours, 180° is the sole

restaurant in Estonia to receive the maximum

50 points from Falstaff for its cuisine

– a recognition shared with only a select

few restaurants across Europe. Among

Estonia’s four chefs awarded a fork by The

Best Chef Awards, Matthias naturally takes

his place. Set in Noblessner, Tallinn’s most

exclusive seaside district, 180° was the pio-

neer that helped

define the

area’s identity.

As the first fine

dining restaurant

to open there, it set

the tone for

Noblessner’s evolution into

a vibrant hub of creativity and contemporary

luxury.

The restaurant’s name is no coincidence:

a breathtaking 180-degree panorama of

the harbour and open sea defines the experience.

At its heart lies an open kitchen,

visible from every table – a stage where

precision, rhythm, and passion unfold in

perfect sync. Watching the team at work

feels like witnessing a finely tuned performance

– one that blurs the line between

craft and art.

For Matthias, great

cuisine begins with great

ingredients. He unites

world-class produce with

Estonia’s finest local treasures

– fresh vegetables, wild berries

and herbs, artisanal dairy – crafting

dishes defined by refined textures and

unexpected layers of flavour. What Matthias

treasures most about Estonia is its sense

of calm and balance.

»Life here allows me to focus on what

truly matters«, he says – a philosophy that

echoes through every detail of 180°.

Here, time slows down. Creativity flows.

And every guest becomes part of the story.

INFO

180degrees.ee


GASTRONOMY

The Art of Effortless

Sophistication

A bright and refined restaurant,

Esmée was conceived as a modern

orangery with granite, green plants,

and a touch of sophisticated calm.

The kitchen reinterprets classic

French riviera flavors as well as

serving luxurious comfort food enhanced

with international nuances.

Here, you can enjoy everything from

a relaxed lunch to an entire evening

with champagne, excellent cocktails

and Andreas Bagh’s renowned

signature dishes. Esmée enhances

both everyday pleasures and grand

celebrations, making both especially

elegant. The restaurant offers cozy

sofa booths and a relaxed enclosed

courtyard that’s open all year, as well

as tables right on Kongens Nytorv,

where you can feel the vibrant pulse

of the city.

ESMÉE



Kongens Nytorv 8


T: +45 33 133713

esmee.dk

Between Olive Oil and

Baltic Breeze

Tucked away in Tallinn’s leafy Kadriorg

district, Mantel ja Korsten occupies a

charming green wooden house with a

red roof and a distinctive old chimney

that inspired its name. The restaurant

reflects the vision of owner Rain

Veskimäe, who has created a space

where Mediterranean flavors meet

Nordic restraint. The atmosphere is

relaxed yet elegant, the menu built

around seasonal Estonian ingredients

and thoughtful combinations that

highlight freshness and balance. The

wine list, carefully curated to pair with

the kitchen’s clean, sun-kissed flavors,

ranges from characterful natural

wines to classic European estates.

With its warm service, inviting interior,

and quietly confident style, Mantel ja

Korsten captures Veskimäe’s belief

that true hospitality is as much about

feeling as it is about flavor.

MANTEL JA KORSTEN



Jaan Poska 19a, 10126 Tallinn, Estonia

T: +372 665 9555

mantel-korsten.ee

Chef’S Corner

Restaurant & Bar

A friendly team welcome you to

this chic brasserie in the city center,

where you’ll do well to start with

a cocktail while choosing from the

classic brasserie-style menu. The

selection is vast, but the emphasis

is on steaks from Australia, Uruguay

and the United States, with those for

sharing a particularly popular choice.

Other options include everything

from tartares, burrata and oysters

to burgers, pastas and game – with

some seasonal options thrown in –

making this spot a hit with locals and

visitors alike. A carefully prepared

wine list, from big names to small

producers, as well as specially selected

wines from our partner Italian

wineries rounds off the experience.

CHEFS’S CORNER

RESTAURANT & BAR



Jeruzalemes iela 5, 1010 Rīga, Latvia

@cc.riga

T: +371 27 001101

chefscorner.lv

Fjellskål –

Seafood with Soul

Few places capture Bergen’s maritime

soul quite like Fjellskål. Family-run

since 1976, this seafood restaurant and

fishmonger stands at the city’s historic

Fish Market. Over 70 types of fish and

seafood glisten behind what may well

be Norway’s largest seafood counter,

while aquariums teem with live Norwegian

lobster, king crab and crayfish.

In winter, the selection includes

Arctic skrei – a seasonal premium

cod – along with live cod and snow

crab; in summer, wild Norwegian

salmon and minke whale take the

stage. With the shop right behind the

kitchen, Fjellskål takes fresh seafood

one step further – guests handpick the

ingredients and see the freshness for

themselves, as the chefs prepare it à

la minute. A true seafood destination

in the heart of Bergen, with the world’s

finest seafood.

FJELLSKÅL SJØMAT

RESTAURANT



Strandkaien 3, 5013 Bergen, Norway

T: +47 989 05898, fjellskaal.no

ADVERTORIAL Pictures: Lauri Laan, provided (5)

248

falstaff dec–feb 2026


ALSIK HOTEL & SPA

ALSIK’S NEW ERA OF

NORDIC HOSPITALITY

Head of Food & Beverage Mette Gassner and Head of Syttende Peter Rødsgaard

unite flavour, place and people on Sønderborg’s luminous waterfront.


Rising above Sønderborg’s historic

harbour, Alsik Hotel & Spa has

become a landmark of modern

Danish hospitality – a place where

gastronomy, design and the calm pulse of

the sea meet. Here, Nordic nature and

understated luxury set the tone for a hotel

experience that feels both grounded and forward-looking.

This year marks a new chapter

for Alsik’s culinary identity. Mette Gassner,

formerly of Ti Trin Ned in Fredericia,

where she co-led the Michelin-starred restaurant

for over two decades, has joined as

Head of Food & Beverage. Her mission: to

create unity - between restaurants, staff and

suppliers - and to root every detail of the

dining experience in authenticity and Danish

nature. »I want guests to feel relaxed, cared

for, and connected to place,« she says. »The

atmosphere should be calm and Nordic, but

alive – a reflection of who we are.«

Gassner’s approach is as intuitive as it is

ambitious. She speaks of creating one

rhythm across all outlets - from breakfast

to banquets – guided by seasonal produce,

smaller local producers and a belief that

less is more. Her leadership has already inspired

a renewed sense of purpose: lighting

softened, spaces made more inviting, and

menus evolving toward purer, more expressive

flavours. Even the coffee tells a story –

sourced from a small Danish roastery she

has known for years, chosen for quality,

passion and personality.

On the 17th floor, Peter Rødsgaard continues

to define the gastronomic pinnacle of

the house as Head of Restaurant Syttende.

A founding member of the Alsik team, he

has shaped Syttende into one of Denmark’s

most distinctive culinary destinations – a

celebration of craftsmanship, nature and

terroir. His tasting menus spotlight local

farmers and foragers by name, blending

refined technique with heartfelt regional

pride. »Our goal has always been to show

the richness around us - the vegetables, the

fields, the people,« he explains.

Together, Gassner and Rødsgaard are

shaping a new kind of synergy at Alsik: a

collaboration built on respect, transparency

and shared purpose. She brings the holistic

vision to life throughout Alsik’s universe –

from the 16th floor and below – while he

channels that same philosophy into fine

dining precision on the 17th floor. The

result is an evolving ecosystem of flavour

and feeling – one that captures the spirit of

Southern Jutland itself: grounded, elegant,

and quietly full of life.

INFO

alsik.dk


Taste Istria

Beyond ancient towns,

among emerald hills hills and and

the the blue blue sheen of of the the Adriatic,

Istria captivates the the most

demanding travelers ——

seekers of of hidden retreats,

connoisseurs of of rare rare delicacies,

and and lovers of of the the extraordinary.

www.istra.com

travel / LONG WEEKEND – VIENNA

THE ART

OF

CULTURE

Photo: WienTourismus / Christian Stemper


Defined by its imperial heritage and rich arts scene, Vienna is a cultural

powerhouse that counts the likes of Franz Schubert, Johann Strauss the

Younger, and Egon Schiele among its famous sons. The city’s culinary

heritage is no less illustrious – as one of the world‘s first fusion cuisines,

it combines the flavors and aromas of many former parts of Austro-

Hungary. A deep dive into life on the Blue Danube.

BY CHRISTOPH SCHWARZ

Vienna’s Ringstrasse set the

stage with numerous imperialera

buildings, including the

twin museums for Art History

and Natural History, both

must-see highlights of any trip.

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

253


FRIDAY

The City of Music

invites you to explore its

numerous monuments

and concert halls. And

for culinary art, try the

famous Sachertorte, or

some early fusion

cuisine like goulash or

Tafelspitz!

For over 450 years, the famous

Lippizaner horses have been the

stars of the Spanish Riding School,

demonstrating equestrianism in its

highest form daily.

Known the world over as the City of

Music, Vienna looks back on a long

and proud history, both as the capital

of the former Austro-Hungarian Empire, and

a cultural epicenter. These are the former

stomping grounds of the likes of Mozart,

Beethoven, Schubert, and Mahler – to say

nothing of non-musical titans like Gustav

Klimt, Sigmund Freud, and Ludwig Wittgenstein.

This year, the city had another reason to

celebrate: the 200th birthday of Johann

In 2025, Johann

Strauss the Younger

celebrates his 200th

birthday. A golden

statue in the Stadtpark

pays fond tribute to the

King of the Waltz – and

is one of the city’s most

photographed

monuments.

Strauss the Younger, the famed Waltz King.

Strauss was already a superstar in his lifetime,

shaping the popular music of his time and

composing both Die Fledermaus, the world‘s

best-known operetta; and the Blue Danube

Waltz, Vienna’s unofficial anthem. Throughout

the year, Vienna’s art and culture scene

paid homage to the master with performances

at the State Opera, the Volksoper, the Musikverein,

and the Konzerthaus. And December

still has quite a few surprises in store.

And so, our long weekend begins in

Vienna’s city center, right at the golden

Strauss monument in the Stadtpark – the

city‘s most photographed monument, even in

regular years. From here, it‘s just a few steps

to the Ringstrasse, where Vienna presents itself

in all its historical splendor. The State

Opera, the Burgtheater, Parliament, and City

Hall – a tour of the Ring (on foot or by

tram) will whet your appetite for culture.

And if you visit Vienna early in the year, you

can even enjoy the dazzling ball season – if

you book soon, you might still have a chance

to get tickets for one of the traditional

balls, including the famous Opera Ball.

Culinarily, we’ll start Friday in classic style

as well – in a coffee house where you can

enjoy the much-vaunted Viennese cakes. The

café at the Hotel Sacher, just behind the State

Opera, is the home of the storied Sacher Torte

– whose exact recipe remains a closely

guarded secret to this day. The Café Prückel

is a bit more casual, but has retained its

ambiance despite new owners and extensive

remodeling. The pastries served in cafés

throughout the city are part of the famed

Viennese cuisine that we will explore this

weekend. It is perhaps one of the oldest fusion

cuisines in the world, drawing on myriad

influences from the lands of the former Austro-Hungarian

Empire. It includes numerous

baked goods, goulash (originally from Hungary

but adapted to Viennese tastes), and

Tafelspitz (i.e., beef boiled in broth). >

Photos: WienTourismus/Paul Bauer / Gregor Hofbauer / Christian Stemper, Hotel Sacher, Steirereck

254 falstaff

dec–feb 2026

The Vienna State Opera on the

Ringstrasse is one of the most

renowned venues in the world – it’s

home to the Vienna Philharmonic and

host its traditional ball every year.

Left: The Café Sacher proudly upholds traditional

Viennese coffeehouse culture – along with a slice

of their world-famous Original-Sachertorte.

Below: The Steirereck has been among the

world’s finest restaurants for years.

dec–feb 2026 falstaff

255


Once the imperial summer residence,

Schönbrunn palace remains one of the city‘s

most impressive landmarks.

Delicous culinary heritage:

Tafelspitz is traditionally served in

a copper pot – and is best

experienced at Plachutta.

One of the city’s best kept secrets,

Meidlinger Markt boasts numerous young,

innovative restaurateurs offering a fresh

take on traditional market fare.

SATURDAY

After a leisurely brunch at a local market, dive

into Vienna’s imperial heritage. Then visit the

city’s authority on boiled beef to experience

local cuisine at its best.

One of Vienna‘s popular markets is the

perfect place for a relaxed Saturday

brunch. Avoid the famous Naschmarkt,

where you have to rub shoulders with

guests from all over the world as they push

through the narrow aisles between the stalls.

Instead, head further west and stroll through

the Meidlinger Markt, which has quietly

blossomed into a real gem in recent years.

More than 150 years old, it was seedy and

dreary for a longest time. But a new generation

of innovative restaurateurs have breathed

new life into the local market. Heu und

Gabel, for example, sees itself as an urban

wine tavern and has a choice menu with a

great Viennese breakfast, while Wirtschaft

am Markt is Vienna’s first market restaurant

to be listed in gourmet guides. Once you’ve

eaten, it is not far from here to Schönbrunn

palace, Empress Maria Theresa‘s former summer

residence. A guided tour is highly recommended,

as is a stroll through the extensive

palace gardens; covering 160 hectares, they

have even been designated a World Heritage

Site. Those who make it to the Gloriette at

the top of the hill can enjoy refreshments in

the café – a just reward, along with one of

the most beautiful views of Vienna.

A genuine bit of local culinary heritage

can be enjoyed not far away in the upscale

district of Hietzing: this is where the

Plachutta family of restaurateurs, who have

elevated boiled beef to an art form, have

their ancestral home. Their Tafelspitz, served

in a copper pot in steaming bouillon

(which also serves as a starter), never loses

its charm. Their knowledgeable waiters

help you choose your cut of meat, and

with options ranging from lean to juicy

and marbled, there is something for everyone.

Tafelspitz and Hüferscherzel, Beinfleisch

and Kruspelspitz are all served in their signature

copper pots, as is beef tongue.

But it’s not just Plachutta (which operates

several branches in the city, the original

being the most authentic) that keeps traditional

Viennese cuisine very much alive.

Reznicek is also worth a visit, where two

young rebels, chef Julian Lechner and sommelier

Simon Schubert, have embraced

classic Viennese fare. Then it’s on to one of

the city’s many bars – such as Dino’s Apothecary

Bar, where mixologist Heinz Kaiser

tinkers with essences, herbs, and clear solutions,

to craft amazing cocktails, just like in

a laboratory. And yes, if you’re still hungry

(or hungry again), you have to explore

authentic Viennese street food and visit a

sausage stand. Right in the heart of the city,

Bitzinger is a prime example: in front of

the Albertina Museum and open until 4

a.m., their iconic Käsekrainer sausages pair

perfectly with beer. And if you want to end

your evening in style, you can even opt for

Champagne. >

Photos: WienTourismus/Julius Hirtzberger / Gregor Hofbauer, Gerd Kressl / Mafia Mashi, edusma7256 / Shutterstock.com, Plachutta

256 falstaff

dec–feb 2026

AMADOR

AMADOR –

MASTER OF CONTR AST

From a vaulted wine cellar in Vienna, chef Juan Amador signs one of Europe’s most

distinctive three-star experiences – a rare Michelin landmark in Austria and a magnet

for gourmet travellers across the Nordics and beyond.

ADVERTORIAL Pictures: © Lukas Kirchgassner (1), Inge Prader (1)

In a brick-vaulted cellar at the Hajszan

Neumann winery in Vienna’s 19th district,

Restaurant Amador feels like a

modern speakeasy for serious gourmets.

Here, German-Spanish chef Juan Amador

stages the latest act of a remarkable

career: after earning three Michelin stars in

Germany, he created Austria’s first three-star

restaurant in 2019 – today still one of only

two in the country.

His cuisine is contemporary fine dining

with a clear signature. Classic French foundations

meet Spanish temperament and German

precision; every plate is built on a

focused idea, pushed to maximum clarity.

Guests encounter deep, concentrated flavours,

deliberate contrasts in texture and

temperature, and a choreography of courses

that feels playful yet controlled. Nothing is

left to chance, but the experience never

becomes academic.

In the kitchen, Amador is joined by Austrian

chef David Fleckinger, who has worked

at his side since the Mannheim days and

now leads the team on site. Together they

translate this vision into tasting menus that

shift with the seasons and with the inspirations

of the day.

The setting supports the drama: few tables,

warm lighting, glimpses of large oak casks

and a European-focused wine list with a

strong Austrian core. It is an intimate stage

for big gestures – a place where Vienna

shows that haute cuisine can be as ambitious,

and as personal, as anywhere in the world.

INFO

AMADOR

restaurant-amador.com



Drinks with a view:

Wieninger serves

some of its very

own excellent

vintages on the

Nussberg, along

with a breathtaking

panorama.

SUNDAY

Vienna and viticulture are inseperable: With

centuries of tradition and ample vineyards

within its limits, Vienna‘s local wine is best

tasted at a Heuriger.

Naturally, Vienna‘s city center could

keep you busy for much longer. A

weekend? Always too short. And

yet, on the third day, after a final tour of

the city – you might still squeeze in a visit

to the Albertina, the Kunsthistorisches

Museum, or the Museumsquartier – and

brunch at the Schwarze Kameel for their

legendary sandwiches (the ham is a must!),

gourmets and wine lovers are drawn to the

outskirts. After all, Vienna is one of the

few major cities in the world to boast sizeable

local wine production.

Stretched over 582 hectares spread

across ten of the 23 districts, the largest

producer is Döbling on the right bank of

the Danube, with around 275 hectares of

vineyards. This is where the former villages

of Nussdorf, Heiligenstadt, Grinzing, Sievering,

and Neustift are located, which still

retain their rustic charm to this day. The

best place for a tasting is in one of the socalled

Heuriger, a local variant of the wine

tavern Viennese treat as second living

rooms. The history of the Heuriger goes

back a long way and can be traced back –

once again – to the Habsburgs: it was

almost exactly 240 years ago, on

August 17, 1784, when the reform-minded

Emperor Joseph II issued a decree allowing

winegrowers to serve their own wine – an

instant hit among vintners and the general

public. Soon, crowds of day trippers were

flocking to the winegrowing villages outside

the city walls – and they still do so

today. The term “Heuriger” has two

meanings: it refers to the around 80 wine

taverns who continue to serve their own

wine; and the young wine itself – always

from the latest harvest, it is allowed to

bear this name for one year from St.

Martin’s Day (11. November) onward. You

should try a typical specialty like the

Gemischter Satz: unlike a cuvée, which

blends finished wines, it is a white wine

made from different grape varieties that

were planted together in the vineyard.

A great place to enjoy Vienna’s wine culture

is Wieninger am Nussberg, awarded

97 points by Falstaff in 2025. The food is

sourced from local businesses, and with

each glass, you get an amazing view of the

city, free of charge. Another great view can

be had from Buschenschank Wailand, located

in a nature reserve on Kahlenberg a

wooded hill right to the north. And while

sipping Vienna’s very own wine and enjoying

such a majestic panorama, planning

your next stay should come easy.

A bird’s eye view of

the Burtheater, one

of Europe‘s major

stages.

>

Photos: WienTourismus/Julius Hirtzberger / Gregor Hofbauer, Gerd Kressl

258 falstaff

dec–feb 2026


ADDRESSES

HOTELS

HOTEL SACHER

Vienna‘s premier address since 1876, the

Hotel Sacher is Viennese elegance personified. Its

world-famous café on the ground floor serves the

famous Sachertorte, while its Blaue bar remains

one of the city‘s most prestigious watering holes.

Philharmonikerstraße 4, 1010 Vienna

T: +43 1 514560, sacher.com

THE AMAURIS VIENNA

Fusing classicism with contemporary style,

this luxury boutique hotel will rejuvenate you with

its inimitable interiors, world-class spa, and gourmet

restaurant, Grasswing.

Kärntner Ring 8, 1010 Vienna

T: +43 1 22122, theamauris.com

HOTEL SANS SOUCI

Rooms and suites offering understated

luxury, decorated with works by renowned artists

such as Roy Lichtenstein and Steve Kaufmann.

Burggasse 2, 1070 Wien

T: +43 1 5222520, sanssouci-wien.com

ROSEWOOD VIENNA

A luxury hotel right in the beating heart of

the city, with exclusive, modern amenities in a

historic 19th-century townhouse.

Petersplatz 7, 1010 Vienna

T: +43 1 7999888, rosewood.com

GRAND FERDINAND

Viennese elegance reloaded is the telling

motto of this luxury hotel in a prime location on

Vienna‘s Ringstrasse in the city center. The Grand

Ferdinand hotel blends the aura of classic Vienna

with contemporary design.

Schubertring 10–12, 1010 Vienna

T: +43 1 91880, grandferdinand.com

HOTEL MOTTO

Urban elegance with a touch of Parisian flair

and Scandinavian hygge defines the hip and trendy

Hotel Motto.

Mariahilfer Straße 71a, 1060 Vienna

T: +43 1 5814500, hotelmotto.at

HOTEL DAS TYROL

A boutique hotel on Vienna‘s longest shopping

street and right by Naschmarkt. Unique and

individualistic.

Mariahilferstraße 15, 1070 Vienna

T: +43 1 58754150, das-tyrol.at

HOTEL IMPERIAL

One of the premier addresses of the city,

right on the Ring. Its imperial flair and high standards

have been legendary for decades.

Kärtner Ring 16, 1015 Vienna

T: +43 1 501100, mariott.com

CAFÉS AND BRUNCH

MEIEREI IM STADTPARK

Located within the Stadtpark with a view of the

Vienna river, the top-tier breakfast menu of

Meierei im Stadtpark never fails to satisfy.

Am Heumarkt 2a, 1010 Vienna

T: +43 1 7133168, steirereck.at

Heinz and Birgit

Reitbauer have been

running the awardwinning

Steirereck

since 2001.

The Sans Souci boutique

hotel combines design,

warmth, and Viennese city

flair to create an

incomparable winter

experience. The longest

hotel pool in the city forms

the sparkling centerpiece

of the Sans Souci Spa.

ZUM SCHWARZEN KAMEEL

A truly beloved institution since 1618, right in the

heart of Vienna. They serve everything from classic

Viennese breakfast to Gabelbissen, offering a culinary

showcase of the city‘s favorite dishes.

Bognergasse 5, 1010 Vienna

T: +43 1 5338125, schwarzeskameel.at

JOSEPH BROT BISTRO

Right by the Stadtpark, this exceptional spot serves sweet

and savory treats made from the finest ingredients.

Landstraßer Hauptstraße 4, 1030 Vienna

T: +43 1 710288, joseph.co.at

STRÖCK FEIERABEND

Open till the evening, Ströck Feierabend also has a

varied breakfast offering featuring organic freerange

eggs and organic, artisinal loafs made from

the best regional ingredients.

Landstraßer Hauptstraße 82 1030 Vienna

T: +43 1 204 39 99 93 057, feierabend.stroeck.at

RESTAURANTS

STEIRERECK IM STADTPARK

Still the gold standard, Steirereck embodies

hospitality as an art form, from their cheese cart to

their bread expert, Andi. Its world-class cuisine

never fails to impress, particularly their innovative

use of vegetables, earning it three Michelin stars.

Am Heumarkt 2a/Im Stadtpark, 1030 Vienna

T: +43 1 7133168, steirereck.at

AMADOR

Juan Amador is the proud chef of one of only

two three-star restaurants in the country (see

above for the other), and each of his creations is

brilliant. Expect culinary art of the highest level and

some remarkable reimaginings of classic dishes.

Grinzinger Straße 86, 1190 Vienna

T: +43 660 9070500, restaurant-amador.com

REZNICEK

Sommelier Simon Schubert and chef Julian

Lechner bridge the gap between the Old and the

New. Their cordon bleu is out of this world.

Reznicekgasse 10, 1090 Vienna,

T: +43 1 3104407, reznicek.co.at


EXCELLENT OUTSTANDING FANTASTIC VERY GOOD 95–100 Points 90 – 94 Points 85 – 89 Points 80 – 84 Points

>

Photos: Philipp Phahorak, Herbert Lehmann, Hotel Sans Souci

260 falstaff

dec–feb 2026

Blessed with beauty.

At the Hotel Grand Ferdinand, Viennese elegance makes its triumphant return to

the world-famous Ringstraße — honoring the past while moving forward with style.

Indulge in the perfect Wiener Schnitzel at our restaurant Meissl & Schadn, or enjoy

Mediterranean cuisine and flair on the terrace of our rooftop restaurant Limón.

www.grandferdinand.com

Schubertring 10-12, 1010 Vienna


GASTHAUS GRÜNAUER

A Viennese institution, Grünauer has been

the epitome of upscale Vienese tavern culture

(goulash!) for decades. Run by Christian Grünauer

and his wife, Katja – the third generation of his

family to do so.

Hermanngasse 32, 1070 Vienna

T: +43 1 5264080, gasthaus-gruenauer.com

PLACHUTTA

“The Home of Tafelspitz” serves the local

favorite soft, tender, and floating in copper pots,

accompanied by the classic accoutrements. Their

other classic Austrian dishes are made to a similarly

high standard.

Plachutta Wollzeile: Wollzeile 38, 1010 Vienna

T:+43 1 5121577, plachutta-wollzeile.at

Plachutta Stammhaus: Auhofstraße 1, 1130 Vienna

T: +43 1 8777087

plachutta-hietzing.at

PICHLMAIERS ZUM HERKNER

Homestyle Austrian favorites with no pretention,

including seasonal classics like venison

goulash, Beuschel, and Powidltatschkerl – served

on Heinz Herkner‘s legendary former premises

Idyllic outdoor seating and varied wine list.

Dornbacher Straße 123, 1170 Vienna

T: +43 1 4801228, zumherkner.at

BARS

TÜR 7

Behind a nondescript door, you’ll find some

of Vienna’s very best cocktails. Open till late.

Buchfeldgasse 7, 1080 Vienna

T: +43 664 5463717, tuer7.at

Reznicek offers a hyperseasonal

menu of revamped Austrian

classics, along with one of the

best wine lists in the country.

Located on Vienna’s

Ringstrasse, the

Grand Ferdinand

hotel combines

Viennese elegance

with modern spirit.

The perfect Wiener

Schnitzel can be

found at the

Meissl & Schadn

restaurant in the

Grand Ferdinand.

THE SIGN LOUNGE

Award-winning cocktail bar that prides itself

on its original creations; eminently instagrammable

and far from mainstream.

Liechtensteinstraße 104-106, 1090 Vienna

T: +43 664 9643276, thesignlounge.at

DINO’S APOTHECARY BAR

Nomen est omen: This top-flight bar is run

by a trained pharmacist, and the drinks are as original

and meticulous as you’d expect.

Salzgries 19, 1010 Vienna

T: +43 1 5357230

dinosapothecarybar.com

BRUDER / KÜCHE & BAR

Proud of fermenting and brewing their own

ingredients, Bruder creates original cocktails and

dishes from regional produce with great passion.

They also have an impressive list of natural wines.

Windmühlgasse 20, 1060 Vienna

T: +43 664 1351320, bruder.xyz

HEUNISCH UND ERBEN

This gourmet bistro is heaven on earth

for wine enthusiasts, with numerous rarities from

around the world.

Landstraßer Hauptstraße 17, 1030 Vienna

T:+43 1 2868563

heunisch.at

O BOUFÉS

The perfect spot for an atmospheric

evening: the wine bistro of Michelin-starred chef

Konstantin Filippou serves Mediterranean dreams

alongside excellent natural wines in a modern

atmosphere. Dominikanerbastei 17, 1010 Vienna

T: +43 1 512222910

konstantinfilippou.com/oboufes

WEIN UND CO SCHOTTENTOR

Recently refurbished, this branch of the

popular wineseller boasts over 1500 different

bottles spread out over two stories. The in-store

bar offers 35 different wines by the glass.

Universitätsring 12, 1010 Vienna

T: +43 50706 3142

weinco.at

SAUSAGE STANDS

EXTRA WÜRSTEL

Featuring organic fare and unconventional variations

like Bosna with kimchi or mayonnise made

out of fermented soybeans. Meatless alternatives

available.

Taborstraße 38, 1020 Vienna

BITZINGER

A Viennese institution serving traditional sausage

favorites right behind the State opera. Enticing

sausages and an impressive beer- and wine

selection. Albertinaplatz 1, 1010 Vienna

T: +43 1 5331026

bitzinger-wien.at

95–100 Points 90–94 Points 85–89 Points 80–84 Points 95–100 Points 90 – 94 Points 85 – 89 Points 80 – 84 Points

95–100 Points 90 – 94 Points 85 – 89 Points 80 – 84 Points 95–100 Points 90 – 94 Points 85 – 89 Points 80 – 84 Points

>

Photos: Konstantin Reyer, Meissl&Schaden, Hotel Grand Ferdinand

262 falstaff

dec–feb 2026

Wellness,

gourmet cuisine,

and winter magic.

For further information on

your getaway in Tyrol visit

www.interalpen.com

Interalpen-Hotel Tyrol GmbH, Dr.-Hans-Liebherr-Alpenstraße 1, 6410 Telfs-Buchen, Austria, Tel.+43 (0) 50809-30, reservation@interalpen.com, FN 45088g

2013-512_25 AZ_Falstaff_International_04+++.indd 1 17.11.25 11:38

DECEMBER – FEBRUARY 2026

IMPRINT

INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE

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dec–feb 2026

falstaff

263

lifestyle / JULIETTE BINOCHE

FALSTAFF SERIES

Part 1

“COOKING IS

A FORM

OF ITIMACY ”

Juliette Binoche learned how to cook from her mother at a tender age.

The celebrated French actress still loves the culinary arts, practicing them

often and with passion – both on and off screen.

TEXT JUDITH HECHT

On screen, a most enticing feast

sizzles, steams, and simmers;

and for a full 136 minutes,

you can practically smell the

fresh baguette, rosemary and

roasted meat in the movie theater. Critics

therefore strongly advised against watching

the French film La Passion de Dodin

Bouffant (English title: The Taste of Things)

on an empty stomach. D’accord: Watching

scrumptious dishes created miraculously in

copper pots simmering on a large, woodfired

stove is pure torture when you’re

hungry. If you’re full, however, this culinary

love story from 2023 is a real treat, even

if – or perhaps because – the food on screen

is truly mouth-watering.

Juliette Binoche plays the female lead, a

cook named Eugénie. She is the confidante

– and lover – of chef Dodin Bouffant,

who was known in France around 1885 as

“the chef of Kings and King of the chefs”.

Diplomats and ambassadors from the

world over would come calling at his

chateau in the idyllic Val de Loire, to enjoy

his – and Eugénie’s – supreme skill. While

Dodin is praised and celebrated, Eugénie

stays quietly in the background. But Dodin

is well aware that, without her by his side,

he would never have ascended to the lofty

culinary heights he has. It is Eugénie who

performs the real miracles in the kitchen:

loin of veal sautéed in butter with thyme

and mint; braised lettuce hearts; turbot in

vegetable-milk broth served in a fine sauce

Hollandaise; quails braised in wine;

seafood vol-au-vent; and – last but not

least – the French national dish pot-au-feu,

which she prepares with a steady hand and

much love for Dodin’s dinner parties.

<

Photo: Eamonn McCabe / Popperfoto / Getty Images


As the daughter of a theater director and an

actress, Juliette Binoche took to the stage

very young. Her career took of in 1988 with

the The Unbearable Lightness of Being.

She received the Academy Award for Best

Supporting Actress in 1996 for her role in

The English Patient.

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

265


The Taste of

Things is a tender

love story full of

cooking starring

Juliette Binoche

and Benoît

Magimel. Michelinstarred

chef Pierre

Gagnaire was the

culinary advisor.

Pot-au-feu

(according to an elaborate recipe by renowned chef Pierre Gagnaire,

and as prepared in the film, The Taste of Things)

FOR THE POT-AU-FEU

1 Beef shank

1 Veal knuckle

1 Oxtail

Beef shoulder, to taste

2 Pigeons

6 Marrow bones

Cloves, to taste

4 Onions

2 Garlic bulbs

Vegetables according to preference,

including carrots, beets, a parsnip, a large

celeriac, celery and leeks

1 Savoy cabbage

Herbs according to preference, including

thyme, bay leaves and curly-leaf parsley

Sheep‘s milk tomme (a type of soft cheese)

FOR THE ONION PUREE

2 kg Onions

Fresh butter

Champagne

Beef- and veal stock

PREPARING THE POT-AU-FEU

– Truss the meat, chop the beef shank into

medium-sized pieces and cut the veal

knuckle open. Place the meat in a pot

and cover entirely with salted water. Remember

to skim the surface regularly as

the meat cooks.

– Cut the onions in half and sauté briefly on a

greased sheet pan. Peel the vegetables. Stud

two of the peeled onions with cloves.

– Add the herbs, the garlic and some peppercorns

to the meat. Then add the vegetables

and roasted onion halves. Bring

the pot to a boil and cover with a dishcloth.

Let the pot simmer for 3 hours.

Then add the two pigeons.

– Just before serving, add the Savoy cabbage

and leave until cooked – this way, it

retains its color.

PREPARING THE ONION PUREE

– Cut the onions into rings. Take an airtight,

ovenproof dish and alternate 3 layers

of onions with one layer of fresh butter

until the dish is full. Add half a bowl

of consommé and a glass of champagne.

– Leave to cook in the oven for 36 hours at

very low heat.

SERVING

– Place a bit of onion puree into a soup

bowl. Chop up a selection of the boiled

meats and lay upon the onion puree bed.

Do the same with the vegetables.

– Cut the sheep’s cheese into small cubes,

sprinkle over the vegetables and then

place in the oven until the cheese melts.

Lay some marrow on top of the cheese.

– Add some mustard seeds and chopped

chives to the Pot-au-feu broth to

create a sauce. Pour a bit

over the marrow.

<

“I’M THE COOK”

Binoche was often asked by journalists

whether she had a culinary stunt double for

the film, considering the exceptional grace

and skill shown by her character, Eugénie.

“No, I’m the cook!”, was her amused reply.

“And whatever I couldn’t already do,

I learned for the film.” Her teacher was

none other than Pierre Gagnaire, famed

French chef and holder of numerous Michelin

stars. The film’s screenwriter and director,

Trần Anh Hùng, hired Gagnaire as a

culinary advisor, and even let him select the

recipes for the film. “We studied videos of

Gagnaire preparing the dishes for the movie.

So before we shot a scene, we already

had a rough notion of how they’re made.

If you’ve been cooking for a long time, you

often develop a feel for it, as your hands

tend to know more than you do yourself.”,

Binoche explains.

And cooking is something the

actress has done since childhood.

“My mother taught

me how to cook – not

as great as in the film,

but more everyday

dishes. But always

with refinement: a

bit of garlic, a few

herbs, occassionally

Photos: Landmark Media/Alamy Stock Photo, margouillat photo/Shutterstock, Cindy Ord/Getty Images, Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images


a bit of curry. These are tricks you learn by

meeting people, or from your parents – mine

loved to cook.” Her love for the performing

arts also came from her mother and father.

Jean-Marie Binoche was a filmmaker and

stage director, and her mother, Monique

Stalens, was an actress. As a result, little Juliette

took on her first stage roles while still in

school. To channel the soul of another person,

and actually become someone else – on stage,

at least – was not just a thrill to her, but also

helped her cope with the pain she felt after her

parents seperated.

ACTING AND LIVING

Her sensitivity, her thirst for truth and her

ability to grant depth to each and every one

of her characters would not go unnoticed

for long. By her early 20s, Binoche was getting

cast by directors like Jean-Luc Godard,

Louis Malle or Jacques Rouffio, despite

lacking any formal acting training. She

dropped out of the Conservatoire National

Supérieur d’Art Dramatique in Paris after

just a few months, as she considered the

curriculum too strict and rigid. How was

she to experiment and evolve artistically?

Even at the start of her career, she already

TIME AND AGAIN,

BINOCHE CHOSE

THE ROAD LESS

TRAVELED –

SURPRISING THE

AUDIENCE WITH HER

VERSATILITY.

understood that “acting is not something

you learn – it’s something you live.” For her,

that maxim meant continually pushing ones

boundaries, enduring silence, meticulously

observing oneself and others – and, above

all, always defying expectations. And over

time, Binoche proved she lived acting with

each role. Whether in Milan Kundera’s The

Unbearable Lightness of Being as a sensitive

waitress; in Les Amants du Pont-Neuf as a

painter going blind; in Three Colors: Blue as

a mother who lost her husband and child; or

in The English Patient as a Canadian nurse

in WW2 who is convinced she is cursed:

Binoche always chose the road less traveled,

surprisng the audience with her versatility.

Binoche at the opening of the

77th Cannes Film Festival

in 2024. This year, she was

president of the festival jury.

Alain Delon and Juliette

Binoche at the 1997 Rudolph

Valentino Awards in Paris.

Her performance in The English Patient

earned her the 1996 Academy Award for

Best Supporting Actress, making Binoche

the darling of Hollywood. But she decided

to turn her back on the glitz and glamor

of Tinseltown and return to France. That

decision barely slowed her down: She

garnered yet another worldwide hit in 2000

with the charming romance, Chocolat.

Starring alongside Johnny Depp und Judi

Dench, she played Vianne, a restless single

mother who settles in the small French

town of Lansquenet -sous-Tannes to open

a chocolaterie – just before Lent, thereby

scandalizing her devout neighbors. Binoche

was frequently asked what drew her to the

role of an itinerant chocolatier who drives

bigoted townsfolk up the wall with delicious

pralines, cocoa beans and hot chocolate.

Her answer was disarmingly simple: “I

absolutely adore chocolate above all, so I

was very eager for the role – even before it

was confirmed that Johnny and Judi would

be joining me.” And thus, Binoche found

herself on set in England making truffles

<

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

267


PROFILE:

JULIETTE

BINOCHE

From France to

Hollywood and back

In 2001, Chocolat recieved five

Oscar nominations, including

Best Actress for Juliette Binoche

and Best Supporting Actress for

Judi Dench.

• Juliette Binoche is one of the most

celebrated French actors of her generation.

Born on 9 March 1964 in Paris, she

came in contact with the performing arts

at a very early age – her mother was an

actress and her father, a director. She

made her stage debut as a teenager.

<

with chili and orange zests dipped in

dark chocolate shortly after the birth of her

second child.

WEDNESDAY IS CRÊPES DAY

Whenever she was home in Paris, Binoche

cooked for her son, Raphaël, and daughter,

Hana – just like her own mother did.

She also tried to pass on her passion for

cooking: “It was very important to me that

my kids should have fun peeling, cutting,

melting, boiling, tasting, and smelling. And

while they were still young – for at least 15

years – we made crêpes every Wednesday.

That was our ritual. A day, just for us. And

today, both of my kids love cooking, and

I’m very proud of that,” Binoche recalled in

an interview.

CULINARY RECONCILIATION

The celebrated actress finds it particularly

alluring when a man can cook well. “I

find that very attractive. There is something

heart felt, something special to it. It’s a form

of intimacy without words. An invitation.

Not a promise – but a promising first step.”

The actor Benoît Magimel, father of her

daughter, Hana, was clearly proficient in

this love language: “Benoît is an absolutely

amazing cook,” Binoche confirms. Nonetheless,

their relationship ended after five years.

After their seperation in 2003, things were

very tense and they hardly spoke to each

other. But that changed during the filming

of The Taste of Things: The director, Trần

Anh Hùng, gave the role of Chef de Cuisine

Dodin Bouffant to Magimel – quite a daring

decision, considering the history between

the leads. Binoche was very nervous about

acting in such close proximity to her ex,

particularly as they were portraying lovers

– who are in perfect harmony, no less. But

cooking together allowed the pair to make

peace after all those years. “To me, this was

a gift,” Binoche remarked. “ Me and Benoît

managed to make up. Love is greater than

conflict, or things left unsaid. It was a beautiful

thing to experience. And I hope the film

reflects that. Perhaps it can help others to

forgive and reconcile.”

<

• After several roles in French films,

Binoche had her big break with the 1988

film Les Amants du Pont-Neuf; her

international breakthrough followed with

her portrayal of Teresa in The Unbearable

Lightness of Being opposite Daniel

Day-Lewis. She then went on to work

with renowned directors like Kieslowski,

Haneke, Hallström and Kiarostami. Her

performance in The English Patient

(1996) earned her the Academy Award

for Best Supporting Actress. Among her

other notable films are Three Colors:

Blue (1993); Chocolat (2000); Camille

Claudel 1915 (2013); and, most recently,

The Taste of Things (2023).

• Binoche also performs on stage, and

has acted in productions in New York,

London, and Luxembourg. She also

paints and is an environmental activist. In

2025, she was President of the Jury at

the Cannes Film Festival.

• Binoche has a son and daughter and

lives in Paris.

Photos: mauritius images/Alamy Stock Photos/ Entertainment Pictures, Photo 12/Alamy Stock Photo


YOU LOOK PERFECT

PURE MERINO LUXURY

Crafted from pure Italian-spun Merino wool and responsibly made in the EU,

YOU LOOK PERFECT brings Nordic calm to everyday life – soft, timeless

pieces designed for home, travel and the moments in between.

ADVERTORIAL Images provided

YOU LOOK PERFECT

embodies a stylish & modern

interpretation of comfort – quiet,

refined and built to last. Each

piece is made from 100% pure Merino

wool, spun in Italy with a focus on

exceptional softness and natural

performance. Merino wool regulates

temperature, feels gentle against the skin

and maintains its shape, making it a fibre

well suited to the northern way of living:

simple, functional and effortlessly elegant.

Equally essential to the brand is

responsible production. All garments are

crafted within the European Union, where

skilled artisans work under fair conditions

and with meticulous attention to detail.

Short production routes and thoughtful

processes reflect a commitment to quality

and integrity. The designs follow a calm,

minimalist aesthetic – clean lines, soft

textures and a palette inspired by nature.

These pieces offer comfort at home yet

move seamlessly into everyday life. A

relaxed morning becomes an elevated look

for the office. A long journey feels lighter

and warmer. Weekends, workdays and

winter evenings all gain a touch of quiet

luxury.

THE PERFECT GIFT

This understated versatility has made

YOU LOOK PERFECT a favourite among

women who value authenticity and time-

lessness over trend. Each garment is created

to be worn often and cherished long,

forming a wardrobe foundation that grows

more personal with time.

The collection also makes a meaningful

Christmas gift. Soft, warm and made with

care, a YOU LOOK PERFECT piece is

more than loungewear – it is a gesture of

comfort and appreciation. For those who

seek something thoughtful, lasting and

beautifully simple, it is the perfect choice.

INFO

MORE INFORMATION AT

youlookperfect.at


be

****

Seehotel Grüner Baum

4830 Hallstatt · Marktplatz 104

SUPERIOR

eelounge phone: +43(0)6134/8263-0 · fax: DW-44

web: www.gruenerbaum.cc

the place to be

****

SUPERIOR

hotel · restaurant · bar · seelounge



phone: +43(0)6134/8263-0 · fax: DW-44

the place to be


SUPERIOR

hotel · restaurant · bar · seelounge ****



phone: +43(0)6134/8263-0 · fax: DW-44




phone: +43(0)6134/8263-0 · fax: DW-44

the place to be


BAROLO & FRIENDS

-44

IS BACK IN STOCKHOLM!

We are proud to announce the 8th edition of the

Barolo & Friends Event in Stockholm by I Vini del Piemonte.



A_RGA_Grüner-Baum_148x210mm.indd 1 13.02.25 15:

T

he event will be held on Monday,

February 16, 2026, at Münchenbryggeriet

and marks a significant

turning point for the promotion of Piedmontese

wines in one of the most strategic

markets for our region. This is where our

Consortium organizes several promotional

activities throughout the year in collaboration

with the press, sommelier schools, and

wine clubs, all aimed at promoting Piedmont

and its wines.

The Barolo & Friends event provides a

unique opportunity for the wine trade to

connect directly with producers from

across Piedmont. Professionals can discover

an exceptional range of territorial

wines, spanning from the world-renowned

Barolo to hidden gems and native appellations

that truly express this great winemaking

region. Wine experts will have the

chance to meet both established wineries

already imported into Sweden and new

producers looking to enter the market,

alongside participating in exclusive, in-

phone: +43(0)6134/8263-0 · fax: DW-44


SUPERIOR

hotel · restaurant · bar · seelounge ****

depth tasting sessions led by Ulrika Ferlin.

The day will culminate with a two-hour

session dedicated to Swedish wine lovers,

offering them the chance to fully immerse

themselves in a 100% Piedmont tasting

experience.

A NEW LOCATION AND NEW

OPPORTUNITIES

This year, we wanted to take a further step

forward by choosing a location that reflects

our ambition and the dynamism of your

wines. For the first time, the event will take

place at the prestigious Münchenbryggeriet.

This iconic space is not just a venue but a

statement of intent: contemporary and

bright, it offers the perfect environment to

present our wines to a selected audience of

professionals and enthusiasts.

INFO

REGISTRATION FOR PROFESSIONALS

AND TICKETS:

wine-vision.se/baroloandfriends2026



1 YEAR FOR € 29,90

PRINT & DIGITAL

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QR-CODE

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Subject to printing errors, mistakes, and price changes.

lifestyle / WATCHES

THE PINNACLE OF HIGH-TECH

SPORTS WATCHES

Ultra-high-end Richard Mille is all grown up: Over the last

25 years, the brand has amassed an impressive stable of

athletic ambassadors topping rankings and podiums

around the world.

TEXT ANDERS MODIG DAVIN

W

hat did Tadej

Pogačar, 2025

winner of Tour de

France, wear on his

wrist? Or a plethora

of super athletes like Rafael Nadal, Usain

Bolt, F1 drivers, skiers, and golfers – strap

on before going to work?

Richard Mille is renowned for both for

its technical innovations and the use of

extremely light and durable materials like

Quartz TPT, a protective composite of over

600 layers of parallel silica filaments that

gives each watch a unique appearance.

What’s more, such materials allows

Richard Milles to withstand extreme

conditions – whether racing downhill on a

bicycle, on the tennis court, the racetrack,

or wherever the world’s leading athletes

strive for excellence.

Richard Mille holds a place akin to Red

Bull in the watch world – but on the

extremely high-end spectrum, with patented

innovations, extreme durability,

supreme precision and price tags in the

hundreds of thousands. The most popular

models in sports are the RM 67-02, as well

as the RM 27 and RM 25 models developed

together with Rafael Nadal over the

last 15 years.

Launched in 2001, the brand’s namesake

sought to rejuvenate the watch world,

offering something fresh and original to

combat stodgy tradition and stale heritage.

Indeed, it was Mr. Mille himself who

initially put his brand on the map by

throwing his masterpieces on concrete

floors to demonstrate their resilience. Fast

forward 25 years and the brand is run by

the second generation, carrying on a

high-tech legacy at the intersection of

motorsports and aeronautics. Still designed

and crafted in the Swiss Jura mountains,

they remain right on the cutting edge with

specifications including aluminium-lithium

alloy baseplates, cable suspension mechanisms,

declutchable rotors, honeycombed

orthorhombic titanium aluminide with

carbon nanofiber cores, torque-limiting

crowns, and free-sprung balance with

variable inertia. And while that might not

mean much to the average layperson, it

only adds to Richard Mille’s mystique.

Richard Mille has

gained a reputation

among athletes,

becoming the

watch of choice for

extreme conditions.

<


In October, the Nordic Watch Awards

held a gala in Stockholm to honor the

very finest in northern horology. Open to

all Scandinavian watch brands, this

year’s winning watches were Radium’s

Crown Guard OP5 from Norway and

Sweden’s Tusenö Supervintage Negroni

and GoS Sarek Frost. The international

1

THE WINNERS OF THE NORDIC WATCH AWARDS

ury also gave a special Prize to Finland’s

Kari Voutilainen. “Our goal is to celebrate

and award the excellence of the

Nordic watch industry,” said organizer

Joakim Amorell, who is usually found at

Watches of Scandinavia, a boutique in

The Old Town of Stockholm that specializes

in Nordic brands.

TIME TO

TRAVEL

2

Photos: Philippe Louzon, provided (4)

Chef’s Choice

Precision is essential in the culinary

arts, so it’s no wonder watch brands love

teaming up with top chefs. Hublot set

the tone by collaborating with three-star

Michelin chefs like Andreas Caminada

and Anne-Sophie Pic, while Richard Mille

works with two-star chef Christophe

Bacquié. In Scandinavia, the Norwegian

watch brand Von Doren has equipped

Bjørn Svensson of Oslo Restaurant FAN

with a chronograph to help keep time in

the kitchen. “Timing is fundamental in

everything when you run a restaurant,

from when your produce arrives to how

long the lobster should be boiled,”

Svensson explained.

Pastry chef and chocolatier Amaury

Guichon and Ulysse Nardin started another

delectable partnership last August,

with the former creating a two-foot, fully

edible replica of the latter’s revolutionary

Freak watch.

Watches have a long history as travel

companions, going back to the 18th century

where marine chronometers helped

sailors establish their longitude at sea.

And they continue to be useful today: One

of the most practical complications for

the modern globetrotter is the GMT

watch, which has an extra hand that

makes a full revolution every 24 hours.

This makes it easy to display a second

time zone, which can be read at a glance

thanks to the markings on the movable

bezel. One of the most beloved is the

Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II (ca.

€ 46.500): Originally designed for Pan-Am

pilots in 1954, its iconic “Pepsi” bezel in

red and blue visualizes day and night.

A World timer on the other hand, features

an adjustable bezel marked with different

cities like New York or Delhi representing

various time zones. To see local

time, simply set your current city to 12

o’clock. Excellent examples are the

Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer

(€ 3.940), Patek Philippe 5330G-001 (ca.

€ 81.400), or Denmark’s Svend Andersen

Communication 45 (ca. € 54.000). Finally,

sunrise/sunset displays as seen in the

Krayon Everywhere (ca. € 600.000) take

mechanical magic one step further: They

can accurately display daytime and nighttime

if you you set your present longitude,

latitude, and date.

<

dec–feb 2026

falstaff

273

last word / INTERVIEW

TELL US, LARS

SEIER CHRISTENSEN …

LARS SEIER

CHRISTENSEN

is an entrepreneur and investor with

a passion for gastronomy. He co-owns

several renowned restaurants including

Geranium, Alchemist, Epicurus, and Café

Dan Turèll and was named

Falstaff Restaurant Personality of

the Year 2026 for his contributions

to Denmark’s

culinary scene.

WHAT MAKES A GREAT

RESTAURANT?

INTERVIEW TOVE OSKARSSON HENCKEL

FALSTAFF What sparked your passion for gastronomy and fine dining?

LARS SEIER CHRISTENSEN It wasn’t really a big thing for me when I was younger. But I spent many years building

Saxo Bank and was deeply involved in sales and client management, where dinners with major investors were an integral

part of the job. It’s a great way to build relationships – and as a side benefit, it introduced me to many outstanding restaurants

around the world. My passion for great food and wine really grew from there.

What drives your decision to invest in certain restaurants?

I’d describe myself as a “reluctant restaurant owner.” I need to be convinced that a concept will deliver an exceptional

experience and add something new or valuable to Copenhagen’s dining scene. Owning a chain of restaurants wouldn’t

appeal to me, even if it might be easier commercially. Since gastronomy isn’t my core business, any new venture must

resonate on a personal level – I want to enjoy spending time there myself.

What do you think makes Denmark’s culinary scene so strong?

It’s a bit like the “Björn Borg effect” in Swedish tennis – once you have a few role models, others follow, learn,

and create their own ambitious projects. Denmark has been fortunate to have several such figures. Of course,

René Redzepi and Noma played a defining role in putting Copenhagen on the map, but there are many

other world-class chefs who have inspired a new wave of talent and creativity.

What do you consider the key factors behind a restaurant’s success?

I’m not sure I’m the right person to advise the full-time experts. But for me, as in

any business, you have to love what you do and always strive to improve,

accepting only the best. If you focus relentlessly on quality and the

guest experience, appreciation will follow – but it’s not

something you can expect without that

unwavering commitment.

Photos: Søren Gammelmark (3), Lars Seier Christensen


Falstaff Magazin Nordics 1/2025

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