(52) The Cultured Traveller, December 2025-February 2026 Issue 52

➤ ISSUE 52

DEC 2025 - FEB 2026

UK £10 EU €10

Belgrade

A CITY WHERE RIVERS MEET

AND HISTORIES COLLIDE

LIJIANG ➤ WARSAW’S NEW MUSEUM OF MODERN ART ➤ GIORGIO ARMANI

GREECE’S ONLY TWO-MICHELIN-STAR FEMALE CHEF ➤ RANKIN

BUDAPEST’S NEW WANDERS-DESIGNED HOTEL ➤ FLORE

ISSUE 52 ➤ DECEMBER 2025 - FEBRUARY 2026

highlights

50 A CITY WHERE RIVERS MEET AND HISTORIES COLLIDE

Demelza Oxley’s exploration of the Serbian capital reveals a city forged by empires, yet today

fuelled by cultural momentum and youthful energy – a capital where rivers meet, histories

converge, and creativity now leads the conversation. From the monumental calm of Saint Sava to

the reimagined banks of the Sava, Belgrade emerges as a place both resilient and unmistakably

forward-looking.

78 JOURNEYING THROUGH YUNNAN'S LIVING HERITAGE

In the highlands of southwestern China, Nicholas Chrisostomou visits Lijiang – the gateway to a

world of dawn-lit lanes, mountain temples, and the elemental force of Tiger Leaping Gorge. From

the ancient Ming Dynasty town of Dayan, his journey unfolds between myth and landscape, in a

province where culture, altitude and ancestral rhythm shape his every step.

118 A SEASONAL SYMPHONY OF DUTCH CONSCIOUS DINING

In the heart of Amsterdam, set within one of the city's most storied hotels, Joe Mortimer is

humbled by a conscious dining experience that adopts a new way of thinking about how and what

we eat, while paying homage to time-honoured ways, natural cycles, and the seasonal produce of

land and sea.

64 INSIDE MARCEL WANDERS' NEW WHIMSICAL BUDA HOTEL

Following Marcel Wanders' dramatic transformation of a once-forgotten 19th-century Buda

landmark into one of the city’s most showstopping new hotels, Nicholas Chrisostomou steps

inside a theatrical world of contemporary design, and spends a few days in a celestial retreat

above the city: the Observatory Suite.

Black Dragon Pool Park in Lijiang, Yunnan Province

Southwestern China, photographed by Tianxin Weng

141

42

41

8 CONTRIBUTORS

CONTENTS

10 EDITOR’S LETTER

The Cultured Traveller checks into a dozen

new hotels around the world where style,

character and comfort define every stay.

12 NEWSFLASH

As another year winds to a close, the

planet illuminates with festive spectacle,

music, and celebration. From fire and light

to ice and colour, The Cultured Traveller

rounds up cultural happenings taking

place across the globe during the coming

months, including one of Japan's three

great annual float festivals, CHICHIBU

YOMATSURI; Tuscany’s winter horse

race, IL PALIO DI BUTI. And amid the

sandstone valleys of northwest Saudi

Arabia, DESERT X ALULA transforms

an otherworldly landscape into an openair

gallery of contemporary art.

68 SUITE ENVY

In the Design District of the Finnish capital,

Nicholas Chrisostomou stays in a quietly

captivating retreat at HOTEL ST. GEORGE

shaped by art, architecture, and soft northern

light, set beneath a landmark cupola.

72 BOARDING PASS

In a world where borders blur and digital

identities promise paper-free travel, the

modern passport remains both status symbol

and key to global mobility. The Cultured

Traveller examines the shifting hierarchy of

the world’s most powerful travel documents

and the ever-evolving trade in citizenship.

127

23

26 REST YOUR HEAD

From the timeless grace of

SANASARYAN HAN in Istanbul’s

bustling Old Town, to the sunlit seclusion of

THE HALCYON PRIVATE ISLES in The

Maldives and the contemporary glamour of

AMAN NAI LERT BANGKOK,

90

90 ART CULTURE

In the shadow of the Polish capital's landmark

Palace of Culture, Warsaw's luminous new

Thomas Phifer-designed MUSEUM OF

MODERN ART has reshaped the city's

cultural skyline and signalled a new chapter

in Poland’s architectural evolution.

6 ISSUE 52 DECEMBER 2025 - FEBRUARY 2026

99

99 MUSIC CULTURE

In between concerts and continents, The

Cultured Traveller catches-up with genredefying

violinist YURY REVICH, whose

dynamic career blends virtuosity with

visual art, humanitarian work, and a

relentless drive to reimagine what classical

performance can be.

107 FASHION CULTURE

When GIORGIO ARMANI died on the 4th of

September 2025, the tributes described not a

showman but a shaper. A man whose precision,

poise, and pared-down elegance transformed

the fashion world, Armani built a global empire

rooted in understatement, discipline, and the

quiet confidence of impeccable taste.

123 TASTE & SIP NEWCOMER

On the rooftop of The Peninsula Istanbul,

Nicholas Chrisostomou experiences renowned

chef Fatih Tutak’s Turk–Asian cuisine at

GALLADA – a refined, cultural crossroads of

flavour, memory and modernity.

127 TASTE & SIP HOT TICKET

A restored 19th-century storehouse on its

own tiny island, TAR blends heritage, Nordic

design and culinary ambition in a setting so

atmospheric and close to the city, that it feels

both a hidden retreat and Helsinki’s most

compelling new restaurant.

130 TASTE & SIP INTERVIEW

The Cultured Traveller chats with celebrated

chef GEORGIANNA HILIADAKI about

her bold new seafood venture, IODIO, and

how it marks a quieter, more personal

evolution in her ongoing redefinition of

modern Greek gastronomy.

138 CHRISTMAS SHOPPING GUIDE

From hand-painted chocolates and

contemporary art to design-forward

homeware, boutique beauty finds and luxe

fashion pieces, courtesy of Adrian Gibson,

this year’s Christmas gift edit celebrates

craftsmanship, character, and a little

seasonal sparkle.

145 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Web addresses for everywhere featured in

issue 52 of The Cultured Traveller magazine.

146 TRAVEL TIPS AT THE TOP

We ask the renowned British photographer

RANKIN, a dozen questions about what he

packs, how he stays creative, and the places

that always catch his eye as he criss-crosses

the globe.

28

19

31

61

27

DEMELZA OXLEY

➤ CITY FOCUS ➤ BELGRADE

British-born and Copenhagen-based freelance product

designer Demelza channels her spare time into

globetrotting and exploring her passions for design,

nature, and gastronomy. At the time of writing, she has

visited 60 countries and her portfolio includes crafting

materials for use in British Airways' First Class suites.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

PUBLISHER NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

DESIGN TAHIR IQBAL

EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON, LISA WEYMAN

ADVERTISING JEREMY GORING

RETOUCHING STELLA ALEVIZAKI

THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Demelza Oxley, Joe Mortimer, Adrian Gibson, Jayne Heslop

Tianxin Weng, Aleksandar Matic, Howard Healy

CONTRIBUTORS

JOE MORTIMER

➤ RESTAURANT REVIEW ➤ FLORE

Specialising in luxury travel and high-end hospitality

and former editor of DOTW News, Joe is an avid wine

enthusiast who spent most of lockdown studying for

his WSET Level 3 exams. When he is not operating

a corkscrew, Joe may be found wandering around the

Mendips or planning his next adventure.

ADRIAN GIBSON

➤ 2025 CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE

For more than two decades, London-based Adrian

worked as a fashion buyer for some of the world’s

leading stores, including Selfridges and Harvey

Nichols. An avid shopper, he enjoys nothing more than

meeting designers and supporting new talent wherever

and whenever he’s travelling the globe.

TIANXIN WENG

➤ PHOTOGRAPHED LIJIANG, CHINA

Guangzhou-born 'Dandy' has been passionate about

photography since he was a child. At the age of 28, he took

a leap of faith, leaving behind his career as a software

engineer to become a full-time photographer. Today he

embraces a nomadic lifestyle, is based nowhere, and has

been taking travel photos for more than a decade.

WITH THANKS TO

Tourism Organization of Belgrade, Jelena Stankovic, Alex He

Charmaine Lin, Vivian Ni, Amber Gong, Arsen Novosel

Natalia Psaropoulou, Aline Keuroghlian

The Cultured Traveller

is a British publication based in London

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THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

COCO LATTÉ, 5 MERCHANT SQUARE

LONDON W2 1AY, UNITED KINGDOM

COVER: St. Michael's Cathedral (Saborna Crkva), Belgrade

and the River Sava, photographed by Aleksandar Matic

for the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade.


Discover Vienna with

Anantara Palais Hansen Vienna

Unforgettable moments await with curated private tours, unique

signature experiences, and Michelin-starred cuisine at Edvard.

DISCOVER THE CULINARY DELIGHTS AT ANANTARA PALAIS HANSEN VIENNA HOTEL

Schottenring 24 · 1010 Vienna, Austria · T: +43 1 236 1000 · palaishansen@anantara-hotels.com

ANANTARA.COM

From left to right: Dayan Old Town,

Lijiang, China; Flore, Amsterdam;

Belgrade, Serbia; Giorgio Armani

EDITOR’S LETTER

AS THE YEAR TURNS AND

winter settles over much of

the world, this edition of

The Cultured Traveller leans

into journeys shaped by

memory, renewal, and the

quiet clarity that often comes

with colder days.

IN SERBIA, DEMELZA

Oxley’s exploration of Belgrade

reveals a city forged by empires

yet fuelled today by cultural

momentum and youthful energy

– a capital where rivers meet, histories converge and

creativity now leads the conversation (page 42).

Further east in Lijiang, I travel through Yunnan,

a highland province of dawn-lit lanes, mountain

temples and the elemental force of Tiger Leaping

Gorge. A region where culture, altitude and ancestral

rhythm shape every step, my journey unfolds between

myth and landscape (page 78).

In Amsterdam, Joe Mortimer steps inside the

micro-seasonal universe of Flore, a restaurant whose

philosophy of conscious dining feels perfectly attuned

to the present day. His review traces a culinary

narrative that honours land, sea and the cycles

that bind them (page 118). And in a year marked by

significant cultural losses, we pay tribute to Giorgio

Armani, whose long discipline of clarity, balance and

understatement redefined the modern silhouette and

quietly reshaped how the world dresses (page 107).

ISSUE 52 ALSO FEATURES TWO COMPELLING

conversations: a far-reaching interview with violinist

Yury Revich, whose cross-disciplinary vision bridges

festive craftsmanship (page 134).

music, art and humanitarian

work (page 99); and an intimate

exchange with Georgianna

Hiliadaki, the celebrated Greek

chef whose newest venture,

IODIO, charts a deeply personal

evolution in modern seafood

gastronomy (page 130).

LASTLY, IN ONE GLITTERING

sweep, Adrian Gibson’s Christmas

Gift Guide gathers the season’s

most imaginative finds into a

beautifully curated line-up of

AS WE LOOK FORWARD, TRAVEL FEELS

more purposeful than ever – not about distance

travelled, but about the clarity gained on the way.

Whether wandering through ancient streets, climbing

towards a temple in the clouds, or settling into a

dining room shaped by farms and oceans, the road

ahead invites us to move with curiosity, intent, and a

renewed sense of connection.

WHEREVER YOUR FUTURE TRAVELS TAKE

you, I wish you a peaceful Christmas, a bright

beginning to 2026, and a new year punctuated by

culture and adventure.

Nicholas Chrisostomou

Editor-in-Chief

@TCTEditor

nicholas@theculturedtraveller.com


news

AS ANOTHER YEAR GENTLY WINDS TO A CLOSE,

THE PLANET ILLUMINATES WITH FESTIVE

SPECTACLE, MUSIC, AND CELEBRATION. FROM

FIRE AND LIGHT TO ICE AND COLOUR, THE CULTURED

TRAVELLER ROUNDS UP CULTURAL HAPPENINGS TAKING

PLACE ACROSS THE GLOBE DURING THE COMING MONTHS

CHRISTMAS AT

POWIS CASTLE

CAMBRIDGE BOTANIC LIGHTS

BOTANIC LIGHTS

drinks, photographers linger on the

transforms Cambridge boardwalks, and the city’s winter skies

University Botanic

become part of the show. Now in its third

Garden into an

year, the 2025 edition runs for 17 selected

after-dark trail of colour, sound and sculpture, nights – its longest season yet – with timed

leading visitors through 40 acres of historic evening entry and off-peak sessions to widen

landscape past the Fountain, Lake and

access. Crucially, ticket income supports the

Glasshouse Range. Designed to enhance

garden’s conservation, horticulture and

rather than overwhelm the planting,

education work, linking a night of wonder to a

installations ripple across water, trees glow in living scientific collection.

shifting palettes, and gentle soundscapes Until 23 December 2025

thread the route. Families pause for hot

www.botanic.cam.ac.uk

IMAGE: KEITH HEPPELL

IN MID-WALES, 13THcentury

Powis Castle turns

into a glowing fairytale at

Christmastime, as this

National Trust stronghold is transformed by a

theatrical promenade of light and seasonal

sound. Terraces shimmer beneath canopies of

lanterns above the Severn Valley; clipped yews

and fountains are washed in colour; and the

castle’s red-sandstone façade flickers with

projection art. Indoors, oak-panelled state rooms

are threaded with garlands and berries,

fireplaces crackle, and choirs fill the Great Hall

with carols. Visitors wander candlelit paths,

pause for hot spiced cider, browse stalls curated

by Welsh artisans, and warm up in the courtyard

café. Family trails, late-opening evenings and

quiet sessions keep the experience inclusive

without losing the sense of wonder. Blending

centuries of history with contemporary craft and

careful storytelling, Powis delivers one of Great

Britain’s most atmospheric festive nights out.

Peak weekends usually sell out quickly, so book

timed tickets in advance.

Until 4 January 2026

www.powis.org.uk


NEWSFLASH

CHICHIBU YOMATSURI

NINETY MINUTES FROM central

Tokyo, The Chichibu Night Festival,

known locally as Yomatsuri, is an

annual two-day event that

celebrates Chichibu Shrine’s history, which dates back

more than 300 years. Widely considered to be one of

Japan's three great annual float festivals, it is held

every year on 2nd and 3rd December, with the main

action taking place on the second night. Six ornately

carved and beautifully decorated floats, or mikoshi,

are carried by teams of Japanese men through the

town. The floats are adorned with lanterns, tapestries

and gilded wood carvings, and accompanied by drum

and flute music. On the second day from 7pm, after the

floats have processed through the streets of Chichibu,

they are hoisted up the steep slopes to the plaza by

city hall. This is followed by a vast celebratory firework

display lasting more than two hours, while the streets

are lined with stands selling delicious festival foods

and amazake (sweet rice wine) to warm-up onlookers

during the cold December nights.

2–3 December 2025

www.chichibu-matsuri.jp/en

NEWSFLASH

HARBIN ICE AND SNOW FESTIVAL

EVERY WINTER, THE

northeastern Chinese

city of Harbin

transforms into a

shimmering Arctic dreamscape for the world’s

largest ice and snow festival. Over 15,000

sculptors and artisans carve vast crystalline

palaces, pagodas, and dragons from blocks

cut directly from the frozen Songhua River. At

night, these glittering structures come alive

with LED lights, painting the icy skyline in

electric colour. Beyond the main Ice and Snow

World, attractions include snow slides, ice

swimming contests, and intricate lantern

displays in Zhaolin Park. The craftsmanship is

astonishing – some sculptures soar higher

than ten-storey buildings. Despite sub-zero

temperatures, millions flock to Harbin each

year to marvel at its surreal, ephemeral

beauty. Blending art, engineering, and

endurance, this frozen city of light is a

spectacular celebration of winter itself.

Late December 2025 – Late February 2026

www.icefestivalharbin.com

VIENNA PHILHARMONIC NEW YEAR’S CONCERT

THE WORLD’S MOST

watched classical

performance rings in

the year from

Vienna’s Musikverein, where the Vienna

Philharmonic fills the Golden Hall with

waltzes, polkas and gallops by the Strauss

family and contemporaries. Maestro

Yannick Nézet-Séguin takes the podium

for 2026, shaping the orchestra’s

trademark lilt and sparkle in a programme

crowned (as tradition dictates) by The Blue

Danube and the Radetzky March.

Broadcast live to more than 150 countries,

the concert pairs gilded-age grandeur

with immaculate musicianship, its

rose-bedecked stage as much a symbol of

the occasion as the opening bars of

Johann Strauss II. Due to extraordinary

demand, tickets are allocated via an online

ballot, although there is also a preview on

30 December 2025 and a New Year’s Eve

performance on 31 December 2025. For the

purest expression of Viennese musical

style, nothing compares.

1 January 2026

www.wienerphilharmoniker.at/en


MUSCAT NIGHTS

OMAN’S CAPITAL

welcomes winter with

one of the Arabian

Peninsula’s most

atmospheric cultural gatherings. For over

two decades, the Muscat Festival has

celebrated the Sultanate’s traditions through

art, performance, and heritage. Staged in Al

Amerat Park and Naseem Gardens, it offers a

window into Omani life – from Bedouin poetry

recitals and maritime music to camel shows

and falconry displays. Craftsmen demonstrate

silverwork, weaving, and pottery, while food

stalls serve fragrant shuwa lamb and dates

dipped in local honey. Evenings bring concerts

beneath palm trees and fireworks over the

mountains that cradle the city. The festival’s

aim is not spectacle but understanding – an

invitation to appreciate Oman’s quiet pride, its

balance of modernity and continuity, and the

hospitality that defines this still-understated

Gulf nation. In cool desert air, Muscat becomes

a stage for culture, memory, and timeless

Arabian grace.

1–31 January 2026

www.experienceoman.om

CAPE TOWN STREET PARADE

A FEW DAYS INTO THE

new year, usually on

the first Saturday, the

Mother City's Bo-Kaap

district erupts in sequins, rhythm, and song

for the Cape Town Street Parade – or

Kaapse Klopse. Rooted in the 19th century,

when enslaved Africans were granted one

rare day of freedom, it has evolved into one

of the world’s most vibrant expressions of

emancipation. Thousands of musicians and

dancers in dazzling satin costumes fill the

streets, their faces painted white in

homage to early minstrel performers.

Brass bands and banjos set the beat as

families line the pavements and balconies.

Behind the spectacle lies a profound

message of unity and resilience, a

reminder of culture’s power to survive

oppression. Joyous, inclusive, and uniquely

South African, Kaapse Klopse remains both

a carnival and a cultural reclaiming of

identity – a New Year’s celebration that

sings of freedom.3 January 2026

www.instagram.com/

capetownstreetparade


15

FÊTE VODOUN

EVERY JANUARY, THE

small West African

coastal city of

Ouidah becomes the

spiritual heart of Benin during Fête

Vodoun – a national holiday that

celebrates the ancient faith from which

Haitian and Brazilian Vodou evolved.

Thousands of devotees dressed in white

gather along the palm-fringed Route des

Esclaves to honour ancestral spirits with

drumming, chanting, and trance-like

dance. Ceremonies at the Temple of

Pythons and on the beach include

offerings of palm wine and gin to the sea,

watched by crowds of worshippers and

curious travellers. Vibrant processions

feature masks, fetishes, and costumed

deities representing natural forces. Far

from dark or secretive, Vodoun in Ouidah

is joyous and life-affirming – a celebration

of connection between the living and the

divine, embodying West Africa’s syncretic

spiritual identity.

8–10 January 2026

www.benin-tourisme.com

FESTA DOS REIS

ON THE FIRST SUNDAY OF

the new year, the Atlantic

fishing town of Peniche

celebrates Festa dos Reis,

one of Portugal’s most heartfelt coastal

festivals. Rooted in centuries-old maritime

tradition, it marks the journey of the Three Kings

with parades, processions, and fireworks above

the harbour. Locals dress as biblical characters

while brass bands and tambourines accompany

the “Kings’ March” through cobbled streets.

Boats are strung with ribbons and lanterns for

the annual blessing of the fleet, and bakeries

hand out bolo-rei, a crown-shaped cake filled

with dried fruit and hidden charms. The festival

blends Catholic devotion with the humour and

hospitality of a seafaring town – strangers are

welcomed like family, and dancing in the main

square lasts until dawn. In a country famous for

soulful celebration, Peniche’s joyful Epiphany

gathering captures the enduring warmth of

Portuguese coastal life.

4 January 2026

www.cm-peniche.pt


NEWSFLASH

GRAND EGYPTIAN MUSEUM

AT THE EDGE OF THE GIZA

Plateau, facing the Great

Pyramids, Egypt’s longawaited

Grand Egyptian

Museum has finally and officially opened its

monumental doors, marking the dawn of a new

cultural era. Two decades in the making, the vast

480,000-square-metre complex is now the world’s

largest archaeological museum, home to more

than 100,000 artefacts spanning 5,000 years of

history. Designed by Heneghan Peng Architects, its

limestone façade evokes the geometry of the

desert, while vast glass walls frame views of the

pyramids beyond. Highlights include the complete

funerary collection of Tutankhamun displayed

together for the first time, the 3,200-year-old

statue of Ramses II dominating the atrium, and

newly curated galleries dedicated to Egypt’s Old,

Middle and New Kingdoms. More than a museum,

the GEM is a bridge between past and present – a

modern temple of knowledge, conservation and

national pride, illuminating the legacy of the world’s

oldest civilisation.

www.gem.eg

JAIPUR LITERATURE FESTIVAL

EVERY JANUARY,

the pink city of

Jaipur becomes

a global hub of

ideas during the Jaipur Literature

Festival – the world’s largest free

literary gathering. Writers, poets,

historians, and philosophers

converge at Hotel Clarks Amer to

debate art, politics, and identity

beneath the Rajasthani winter sun.

The atmosphere is electric yet

informal, as Nobel laureates share

stages with debut authors and

readers mingle with thinkers over

chai. The festival’s programming

extends beyond literature to music,

cinema, and climate discourse,

reflecting India’s vibrant intellectual

life. From dawn readings to latenight

concerts, JLF celebrates the

written word as a living, breathing

force that connects cultures.

It’s not just a festival – it’s a

democratic celebration of

creativity and conversation.

15–19 January 2026

www.jaipurliteraturefestival.org

TAMIL PONGAL FESTIVAL

ACROSS SRI LANKA’S

Tamil communities, the

four-day harvest festival of

Pongal marks the arrival of

the sun’s northward journey. It is a time of

thanksgiving, abundance, and renewal,

celebrated with both reverence and

exuberance. In Jaffna, courtyards are

decorated with vivid kolam patterns drawn

from rice flour, while families gather to cook

sweet rice in clay pots that overflow in

symbolic prosperity. Bulls are bathed and

adorned with garlands for Mattu Pongal, and

traditional games, dances, and community

feasts follow. Though rooted in agrarian ritual,

Pongal today unites rural and urban Tamils in

shared gratitude to the natural world. The

combination of faith, feasting, and festivity

makes it one of the Indian Ocean’s most

uplifting cultural experiences – an ode to sun,

soil, and the eternal rhythm of life.

14–17 January 2026

www.srilanka.travel


NEWSFLASH

IL PALIO DI BUTI

WHILE SIENA’S HORSE

race steals the headlines

in summer, Tuscany’s

winter palio in the

medieval village of Buti offers a rawer,

more intimate spectacle. Held every

January, the Palio di Buti sees rival

neighbourhoods race bareback horses

through narrow cobbled streets lined

with cheering locals. Originating in the 17th

century, the event blends medieval pageantry

with fierce community pride. Flag-throwers

and drummers lead processions through

the misty Arno Valley, while villagers spill

from taverns serving wild boar stew and

Chianti. The race itself lasts barely a minute,

but its tension and drama are legendary. As

the winning contrada parades its banner to

the parish church, bells ring and fireworks

crack across the Tuscan hills. Authentic,

unpolished, and deeply rooted in place,

Buti’s Palio distils centuries of Italian

tradition into one thrilling winter’s day.

18 January 2026

www.paliodibuti.eu

CELTIC CONNECTIONS

FOR THREE WEEKS

each winter, Glasgow

becomes the world’s

Celtic capital as

musicians from across the British Isles,

Ireland, North America and Scandinavia

gather for Celtic Connections. Founded in

1994, it has grown into Europe’s premier

celebration of folk, roots and world music,

hosting more than 300 events across concert

halls, churches and late-night clubs. The 2026

programme will feature collaborations

between Gaelic singers and Nordic

instrumentalists, alongside showcases of

traditional Scottish piping and contemporary

fusion acts. Audiences spill from the Royal

Concert Hall into nearby pubs where

impromptu sessions continue until dawn.

Workshops, ceilidhs and storytelling events

preserve oral traditions while embracing new

voices. In the dark heart of a Scottish winter,

Celtic Connections proves that folk culture is a

living, evolving art – one capable of warmth,

reinvention and endless rhythm.

16 January – 2 February 2026

www.celticconnections.com


19

NEWSFLASH

INTERNATIONAL

BALLET FESTIVAL

OF HAVANA

FOUNDED IN 1960 BY

the late Alicia Alonso,

Havana’s International

Ballet Festival is one of the

most prestigious dance gatherings in the world.

The biennial event unites leading companies

and soloists from more than 20 countries for

two weeks of performances across the Cuban

capital’s grand theatres, including the Gran

Teatro de La Habana Alicia Alonso and the

Teatro Nacional. The 2026 edition will

celebrate the festival’s 38th outing, combining

classical repertoire with new contemporary

commissions by Latin American

choreographers. Beyond the stage, open

rehearsals, exhibitions, and film screenings

invite audiences into Cuba’s vibrant dance

culture. Set against the city’s faded

neoclassical splendour and accompanied by

live orchestras, the festival embodies the

island’s artistic soul – resilient, passionate, and

richly expressive. 20 January – 4 February 2026

www.balletnacionaldecuba.cu

TIMKAT

THE MOST IMPORTANT

festival in the

Ethiopian Orthodox

calendar, Timkat

commemorates the baptism of Jesus in

the River Jordan. Each January, cities

across Ethiopia burst into colour and

devotion as priests carry sacred

replicas of the Ark of the Covenant, known

as tabots, through the streets. In Addis

Ababa and Gondar, the processions are

particularly spectacular, with worshippers

dressed in white robes embroidered with

gold, chanting and dancing to drums and

horns. On the eve of Timkat, thousands

gather beside pools and rivers for

all-night vigils before a mass baptism at

dawn. The atmosphere is joyous and

deeply spiritual, blending faith, music,

and community. For travellers, it offers

an extraordinary glimpse into one of the

world’s oldest Christian traditions – a living

pageant of belief and beauty under the

highland sun.

18–19 January 2026

https://visitethiopia.et


UP HELLY AA

EVERY JANUARY, THE

remote Shetland Islands

erupt in flames and Norse

pageantry during Up Helly Aa,

Europe’s most extraordinary fire festival. Rooted in

Viking heritage, it transforms Lerwick, the islands’

capital, into a living saga. For months, locals craft

ornate costumes and a full-sized replica longship,

keeping the identity of the festival’s chief – the

Guizer Jarl – a closely guarded secret. On the final

Tuesday of January, more than a thousand

torch-bearing “Vikings” march through the town in

perfect formation, singing battle songs before

hurling their blazing torches into the waiting ship.

As it burns, the crowd erupts in song and

celebration that continues until dawn across a

dozen local halls. A dazzling display of

craftsmanship, theatre, and island spirit, Up Helly

Aa honours Shetland’s seafaring past with

elemental grandeur and communal pride.

27 January 2026

www.uphellyaa.org

NEWSFLASH

DESERT X ALULA

AMID THE SANDSTONE

valleys of northwest

Saudi Arabia, Desert X

AlUla transforms an

otherworldly desert landscape into an

open-air gallery of contemporary art. A

collaboration between Desert X California

and the Royal Commission for AlUla, the

biennial exhibition invites international artists

to create monumental installations that

respond to the region’s geology, history, and

light. Previous editions featured mirrored

structures, soundscapes, and kinetic

sculptures emerging from the sands. Set

against AlUla’s ancient Nabataean tombs and

ochre cliffs, the works explore humanity’s

relationship with nature and time. The event

underscores Saudi Arabia’s growing cultural

ambitions while maintaining a poetic dialogue

with its environment. For visitors, wandering

through these luminous desert artworks is

both meditative and transformative – a

journey through silence, imagination, and art

on a monumental scale.

29 January – 5 February 2026

https://desertx.org

SHARJAH LIGHT FESTIVAL

EACH WINTER, THE

emirate of Sharjah is

transformed into an

immense open-air

gallery when its mosques, universities, and

heritage landmarks become canvases for

light. The Sharjah Light Festival unites

international artists, designers, and

technologists who project dynamic imagery

and colour onto the city’s architecture,

accompanied by original music and

soundscapes. Over eleven nights, more than

a dozen locations across the emirate –

including the Al Noor Mosque, Al Qasba

Canal, and the University City Hall – are

illuminated with mesmerising animations

inspired by Islamic art, astronomy, and

geometry. Families gather along the

Corniche, children chase beams across the

water, and photographers fill the streets

after dark. Emphasising science and

creativity as twin pillars of progress, the

festival elegantly bridges tradition and

innovation beneath the Arabian stars.

5–16 February 2026

www.sharjahlightfestival.ae


RIO CARNIVAL

CONSIDERED THE

world’s biggest and

most glittering carnival,

Rio is the party of a

lifetime for many, routinely attracting more

than a million people onto the streets of

the famous Brazilian city each day. The

celebrations begin with the crowning of

King Momo – the Fat King – who receives

an oversized silver and gold key from Rio’s

mayor before street bands, dancers and

revellers take over the squares and avenues,

led by traditional samba schools from the

city’s favelas. While the grand parade at

the Sambodromo remains the carnival’s

most iconic spectacle, the true spirit of the

festival unfolds across the neighbourhoods,

where hundreds of impromptu parties fill the

streets before and after carnival weekend,

bringing the metropolis to a colourful,

musical standstill. Visitors should also

experience a Bloco, or banda – the exuberant,

free street parties that pulse through every

corner of the city.

13–21 February 2026

www.riocarnaval.com

PERTH FESTIVAL

FEBRUARY SEES THE

Western Australian

capital become a

canvas for creativity

during the Perth Festival – the oldest annual

multi-arts festival in the southern

hemisphere. Founded in 1953, it transforms

the city’s parks, theatres, and riverbanks into

a celebration of performance, literature, film,

and design. International artists share the

stage with Indigenous storytellers, musicians,

and dancers, whose works illuminate the

landscapes and traditions of Noongar

Country. Open-air concerts beside the Swan

River, site-specific theatre beneath the stars,

and installations in the city’s laneways create

a seamless dialogue between art and place.

What sets Perth apart is its balance of global

ambition and local soul: a festival that feels

rooted in its environment yet outward-looking

in spirit. As summer light fades across the

Indian Ocean, Perth Festival reminds visitors

that culture here is as expansive as the

western sky.

6 February – 1 March 2026

www.perthfestival.com.au


23

NEWSFLASH

FÊTE DU CITRON

EVERY FEBRUARY, THE

Riviera resort town of

Menton bursts into

citrus-coloured brilliance

for the Fête du Citron, a celebration of the

region’s prized lemons. Giant sculptures

made entirely from oranges and lemons fill

the Biovès Gardens, while parades of

flower-decked floats roll along the seafront

accompanied by brass bands and dancers.

More than 140 tonnes of fruit are used to

create the festival’s ephemeral artworks,

whose themes range from mythology to

cinema. Locals sell lemon-infused pastries and

liqueurs, and the scent of citrus fills the winter

air. Originating in the 1930s, the festival has

grown into one of the Côte d’Azur’s most

delightful spectacles – part carnival, part art

installation. Under bright blue skies, Menton’s

streets gleam with sunshine, fragrance, and

the Mediterranean’s most vivid expression of

joie de vivre.


www.feteducitron.fr

IMAGE: CHRIS SYMES

AOTEAROA

NEW ZEALAND

FESTIVAL OF

THE ARTS

WELLINGTON’S

waterfront and

theatres become a

stage for bold

performance, visual art and ideas during

the New Zealand Festival of the Arts, a

triennial celebration of creativity that

returns in early 2026. Founded in 1986

and produced by Tāwhiri, it is the nation’s

most ambitious arts event, spanning

theatre, dance, music, digital installations

and literature. The programme embraces

both global and Pacific perspectives,

from Māori contemporary dance

collectives to international orchestras

and avant-garde theatre from Europe and

Asia. Public art projects spill into the

harbour precinct, while the city’s cafés

and laneways host late-night jazz

sessions and spoken-word salons. In a

country renowned for natural beauty, this

is a rare chance to experience its cultural

power centre in full bloom – a festival that

connects the South Pacific’s creative

currents to the wider world.


www.festival.nz


BLITZ: THE CLUB THAT SHAPED THE 80s

IMAGE: DEREK RIDGERS C/O UNRAVEL PRODUCTIONS

THE DESIGN MUSEUM’S

and Melissa Caplan, alongside instruments,

autumn exhibition revisits sketches, fanzines and early issues of The Face

the London nightclub that and i-D. Visitors encounter the 1970s Yamaha

ignited an entire decade. synthesiser used to record Journeys to Glory,

Blitz: The Club That Shaped the 80s charts how a dramatic ensembles worn on the dancefloor,

short-lived Covent Garden venue became the and film footage that captured a generation

crucible of the New Romantic movement,

inventing its own glamour. Curated by

launching the careers of Spandau Ballet, Visage Danielle Thom, this is the first exhibition to

and Boy George while redefining fashion, art and trace how one tiny club night transformed

music. More than 250 rare objects are gathered global pop culture.

from the personal collections of the original Blitz Until 29 March 2026

Kids – garments by Stephen Jones, David Holah www.designmuseum.org

Vivienne Lynn, Boy George, Chris Sullivan, Kim Bowen, Theresa Thurmer, and a Blitz attendee, 1980

GAAFU ALIFU ATOLL MALDIVES

rest your

➤ GAAFU ALIFU ATOLL ➤ BRUSSELS ➤ BANGKOK ➤ WASHINGTON, D.C.

➤ CRETE ➤ CRES ➤ AHMEDABAD ➤ MALLORCA ➤ BADEN-BADEN

➤ LYON ➤ NGORONGORO ➤ ISTANBUL

THE HALCYON

PRIVATE ISLES

SCATTERED LIKE DROPS OF TURQUOISE GLASS ACROSS

the Indian Ocean, the Maldives is a vision of unspoiled natural

beauty. Comprising 1,192 coral islands grouped within 26 natural atolls, this

island nation is defined by its lagoons, swaying palms, and expanses of white

sand that melt seamlessly into clear, cerulean water. Beneath the surface

lies a kaleidoscopic marine world, home to manta rays, reef sharks, and

vibrant coral gardens that make diving and snorkelling here an otherworldly

experience. Yet beyond its postcard perfection, the Maldives has cultivated

a refined sense of serenity – an effortless harmony between nature and the

understated elegance of its resorts. Time slows with the rhythm of the tides,

and days unfold to the hush of waves and the glow of endless horizons. Yet

seclusion remains the Maldives' truest luxury, for each island offers its own

rhythm, its own horizon, and the quiet promise of a real escape.

Set across two secluded islands in the Gaafu Alifu Atoll, The Halcyon

Private Isles redefines Maldivian seclusion through craftsmanship,

storytelling, and stillness. Inspired by the myth of Alcyone and the Golden

Age of exploration, the resort’s architecture flows with the rhythm of

the ocean – open-plan villas framed by grey-blues, timber, and natural

textures that blur boundaries between land and sea.

Its 38 expansive villas, each with a private infinity pool, range from

beachfront sanctuaries to overwater escapes and the three-bedroom

Halcyon Grand Estate, where gracious living meets horizon-wide

views. Every stay is shaped by the intuitive touch of a Halcyon

Butler, orchestrating experiences from sunrise yoga and marine-led

excursions to bespoke candlelit dinners beneath the stars.

Dining unfolds as a sensory voyage: Thari’s refined island cuisine,

Yuzu’s Peruvian-Japanese fusion, flame-grilled fare at The Firepit,

and the evocative glamour of Bell Bar, a tribute to explorer H.C.P. Bell.

Anchored by the overwater Halcyon Spa, wellbeing follows the tide –

meditative, restorative, and profoundly connected to nature. In every

detail, The Halcyon Private Isles invites unhurried discovery – a modern

refuge where tranquillity, artistry, and exploration intertwine.

www.thehalcyonmaldives.com

26

head

FROM THE TIMELESS GRACE OF

SANASARYAN HAN IN ISTANBUL’S OLD

TOWN TO THE SUNLIT SECLUSION OF THE

HALCYON PRIVATE ISLES IN THE

MALDIVES AND THE CONTEMPORARY

GLAMOUR OF AMAN NAI LERT BANGKOK,

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER CHECKS INTO

A DOZEN NEW HOTELS AROUND THE

WORLD WHERE STYLE, CHARACTER AND

COMFORT DEFINE EVERY STAY

BRUSSELS BELGIUM

THE STANDARD, BRUSSELS

BELGIUM’S CAPITAL HAS ALWAYS BEEN A LITTLE MORE

complex than first impressions suggest. Brussels balances

grandeur and grit, medieval lanes and modern skylines, EU bureaucracy

and offbeat creativity. Behind baroque façades and neoclassical

boulevards, the city thrums with comic-book murals, design ateliers and

the warm fug of waffles curling through arcades. At its heart, the

Grand-Place – UNESCO World Heritage since 1998 – stages a daily

theatre of gilded guildhalls, Gothic pinnacles and café terraces. Beyond

the centre, trams slide past leafy squares to quarters where Art Nouveau

townhouses sit beside contemporary studios, and dining ranges from

Michelin addresses to convivial brasseries pouring lambic and gueuze.

North of the historic centre, the city’s Northern Quarter has undergone

a striking transformation. The former World Trade Center towers,

long symbols of 1970s concrete austerity, are being reborn through

the ZIN project into a mixed-use district that blends housing, offices,

hospitality and public space. Wider pavements, new planting and active

ground floors signal a shift from monofunctional office zone to lived-in

neighbourhood – open, sustainable and unmistakably European.

At once irreverent and somewhat sophisticated, The Standard, Brussels

brings the brand’s signature energy to Europe’s political heart. Set within

the city’s striking ZIN redevelopment, this 28-storey property fuses postwar

modernism with Belgian brutalist flair, its bold concrete geometry

softened by rich textures, saturated hues and a distinctly playful spirit.

Interiors by Jaspers-Eyers and Bernard Dubois Architects frame custom

furnishings, curved forms and tactile finishes that reference everything

from 1970s America to 1930s Belgian design.

The hotel’s 200 rooms and suites balance sculptural woodwork, circular

motifs and subtle eccentricity, while upper-floor residences cater to

extended stays with panoramic skyline views. Dining is equally inventive:

Double Standard serves American and Belgian comfort classics beside

a mid-century bar, while Lila29 crowns the top floor with 360-degree

vistas and contemporary Mediterranean cooking. Designed as a living

social space rather than a static hotel, The Standard, Brussels channels

the brand’s ethos – creative, provocative, and unashamedly fun..

www.standardhotels.com

28

BANGKOK THAILAND

AMAN NAI LERT BANGKOK

FEW CITIES EMBODY CONTRAST QUITE LIKE BANGKOK.

Thailand’s capital hums with perpetual motion – long-tail

boats gliding down the Chao Phraya River, saffron-robed monks weaving

through morning markets, and skyscrapers of glass and steel rising

above golden temple roofs. Beneath this modern skyline, the city’s soul

remains unmistakably traditional: shrines fragrant with incense, street

vendors perfecting family recipes, and quiet courtyards tucked between

lanes of constant traffic. Yet Bangkok is also a city of reinvention, where

contemporary art spaces and Michelin-starred restaurants thrive

alongside shophouses and spirit houses, creating an energy that is both

timeless and electric.

In the heart of the metropolis, Pathumwan neighbourhood reflects this

balance of commerce, culture, and calm. And amid luxury malls and

leafy embassies lies verdant Nai Lert Park, one of central Bangkok’s

rare green sanctuaries. Once a private estate, this historic enclave

now shelters age-old banyans, lotus ponds, and tropical gardens that

feel a world away from the city’s bustle – a reminder that tranquillity

still thrives at the core of the Thai capital.

Aman Nai Lert Bangkok brings a new dimension of serenity to city

hospitality. Rising 36 storeys above Nai Lert Park, this sanctuary of

light and craft balances Aman’s signature restraint with Jean-Michel

Gathy’s narrative detail: a soaring atrium pierced by a 12-metre tree

sculpture

hung with 6,000 gold leaves; carved Chiang Mai wood panels in the

1872 Bar; and quietly opulent suites – just fifty-two of them, among

Bangkok’s largest – appointed in muted tones with pivoting light panels

to shape space and mood.

On the ninth floor, Arva serves seasonal Italian cuisine beside the

elegant 1872 Bar, while Sesui and Hiori on the nineteenth elevate

Japanese dining with omakase sushi and teppanyaki theatre. A

tri-level, 1,500-square-metre Aman Spa & Wellness unites Medical

Wellness by Hertitude Clinic with Thai healing traditions; the Banya

Spa House introduces a private steam, jacuzzi and lounge ritual to the

city. An elliptical pool curves around a century-old Sompong tree, the

fitness and movement studios complete the sense of calm control.

Refined, sculptural and serenely composed, Aman Nai Lert Bangkok

deftly renders modern urban living as hospitality art.

www.aman.com


29

WASHINGTON, D.C. UNITED STATES

ARLO WASHINGTON DC

WASHINGTON, D.C. HAS ALWAYS BALANCED SYMBOLISM

with substance. Purpose-built as the capital of a young republic,

its broad avenues and ordered geometry still mirror the ideals of clarity and

democracy envisioned by Pierre L’Enfant in the 18th century. The National

Mall anchors the city’s landscape, stretching from the Lincoln Memorial to the

Capitol, flanked by marble monuments, world-class museums and tree-lined

paths that speak to both history and aspiration. Yet beyond its monumental

core lies a city alive with character: red-brick rowhouses, leafy avenues, and a

thriving culinary scene where global influences meet Mid-Atlantic sensibility.

Each neighbourhood reveals a different facet of Washington’s personality –

from Dupont Circle’s cosmopolitan energy to Georgetown’s cobbled charm.

In Judiciary Square, the mood shifts again. Formal yet evolving, courthouses,

bar associations and law schools sit alongside restored landmarks and

where natural textures and soft light create warmth within industrial

contemporary institutions, giving the district civic gravitas with a renewed geometry. Public areas flow from a convivial bar and lounge to a

pulse. Metro access, new cultural programming and carefully refurbished fireside living room designed for conversation and art.

public spaces have made this historic quarter feel welcoming again, and a

place where Washington’s legal heart meets everyday rhythms. Museums, Guest rooms combine exposed brick, dark walnut floors and tile work

memorials and workplaces intersect here, shaping days that blend civic inspired by the building’s 19th-century originals. Chef Pepe Moncayo

ceremony with ordinary life and routines.

leads Arrels, the ground-floor restaurant celebrating open-fire Spanish

cooking, while his Bodega by Arrels serves coffee and grab-and-go fare.

One block from the Judiciary Square subway station, and once

The rooftop ART DC crowns the hotel with a bar, pool and skyline views,

the city’s oldest surviving apartment building, the 1888 Harrison

its menu shifting to Japanese-style hand rolls and yakitori. With rotating

Apartments have been reimagined as Arlo Washington DC, a 445-room art exhibitions, sustainable LEED design and a creative spirit that honours

lifestyle hotel blending heritage architecture with bold contemporary its past, Arlo Washington DC feels refreshingly original yet unmistakably

energy. Behind its Romanesque Revival façade, vaulted brick ceilings grounded in its history.

and original arches frame spaces by design studio Meyer Davis,

https://arlohotels.com/washingtondc

30

CRETE GREECE

JW MARRIOTT CRETE

RESORT AND SPA

THE LARGEST AND SOUTHERNMOST OF THE GREEK ISLANDS,

Crete is a world unto itself – mountainous, mythic and bathed in

luminous light. Its landscapes shift from snow-dusted peaks and fertile plains to

gorges, olive groves and shimmering coves. Ancient Minoan palaces, Venetian

harbours and Ottoman mosques trace a civilisation layered over millennia,

while village cafés and family-run tavernas preserve a rhythm unbroken by time.

Despite its scale, Crete retains intimacy; its warmth lies in the hospitality of its

people and the enduring connection between land and sea.

Facing the Bay of Souda, Marathi is a small coastal village near Chania, known

for its crystal shallows and calm, sheltered beaches. A handful of waterfront

tavernas serve fresh fish, while pine trees edge the sand and low hills rise

gently behind. A short drive away, Loutraki Beach offers a peaceful crescent of

fine sand and translucent water – a secluded spot favoured by locals for quiet

swims and unhurried afternoons.

Set on a sweep of coastline close to Loutraki, JW Marriott Crete Resort blends

architectural elegance with a deep reverence for its natural surroundings.

Designed by Athens-based Block722, the resort’s sculpted forms and planted

roofs flow organically into the landscape, with olive and carob trees threaded

between courtyards of marble and wood. Interiors mirror the island’s textures

in warm terracotta, sand and olive tones, accented by sculptural lighting and

handcrafted ceramics. Most of the 160 rooms, suites and villas include private

pools, their shaded terraces framing the shifting blues of the Aegean.

Culinary life revolves around the JW Garden, where herbs and vegetables

inspire six restaurants, from ANOEE’s open-fire cooking by chef Manolis

Papoutsakis to the sea-to-table refinement of Õnalos. A mixology programme

created with Line Athens infuses cocktails with local botanicals. At the heart of

the resort, ANOSEAS Spa offers Cretan healing rituals, hydrotherapy and yoga

decks overlooking the sea. Rooted in well-being and design, JW Marriott Crete

balances simplicity, sophistication and a tangible connection to the earth.

www.jwmarriottcreteresort.com


Jewel of Udaipur Suite

CRES CROATIA

THE ISOLANO, CRES

STRETCHING ALONG THE ADRIATIC’S SUNLIT EDGE,

Croatia unfolds as a land of crystalline seas, island-dotted

horizons and centuries of layered history. Its thousand islands and

rugged coastline are scattered with medieval towns, Renaissance ports

and pine-fringed coves where turquoise waters meet pale stone quays.

Inland, karst mountains, forests and lakes reveal a gentler beauty, from

the cascades of Plitvice to the Baroque squares of Zagreb. Once a

crossroads of empires, Croatia today exudes quiet confidence, balancing

heritage and hedonism in equal measure – a country defined by light,

water and the unhurried rhythm of Mediterranean life.

The island of Cres, one of Croatia’s northern Adriatic jewels, is defined

by contrasts – wild, windswept landscapes and tranquil, time-forgotten

villages. Olive groves and oak forests blanket its hills, while stone paths

wind to secluded bays where the sea glows deep cobalt. The Venetianbuilt

town of Cres, with its narrow lanes and waterfront cafés, preserves

a rhythm unhurried by time. Inland, shepherds still tend flocks among drystone

terraces, and griffon vultures wheel above limestone cliffs. Linked

by bridge to Lošinj yet retaining its quiet independence, Cres remains one

of the Adriatic’s most authentic and untouched escapes.

mirrors sea and sky. The boutique scale feels intentional. Each of the 49

guest rooms and four suites has a private balcony with panoramic water

views; five “infinity” rooms offer direct access to one of the hotel’s two

heated pools, bringing the horizon almost to your doorstep.

Restaurant Moise is led by chef Aleksandar Kerekes, whose finedining

credentials inform a menu rooted in local land and sea, paired

to Croatian wines. A sage welcome drink and rakija-forward cocktails

underline a sense of place, while a lobby-bar workshop invites guests

to blend their own Isolano botanicals to take home. Wellness flows

through the experience: a spa drawing on honey, sea salt and olive

oil, and NOHrD Fitness facilities for alignment and recovery. Elegant,

authentic and deeply grounded, The Isolano distils contemporary

Adriatic ease. www.marriott.com/rjkck

Blending modern craftsmanship with Cres’ island calm, The Isolano marks

Autograph Collection’s debut in Croatia. Conceived by designer Kristina

Zanic, its architecture and interiors echo the Adriatic’s natural rhythm:

Brac stone, hand-finished woods and a palette of white, sand and navy that

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER 33

AHMEDABAD INDIA

LE MÉRIDIEN AHMEDABAD

SET ALONG THE BANKS OF THE SABARMATI RIVER IN

western India, Ahmedabad is a city of vivid contrasts – ancient

yet progressive, spiritual yet decidedly modern. Founded in 1411 by Sultan

Ahmad Shah, it flourished as a centre of trade and textiles, later earning

the moniker “Manchester of India”. Today it is Gujarat’s largest metropolis

and a crucible of creativity, where heritage meets entrepreneurial ambition.

Across the skyline, Mughal domes and temple spires rise beside colonial

mills, glass-fronted offices and contemporary studios. Sabarmati Ashram,

once Mahatma Gandhi’s residence and nerve centre of the freedom

movement, remains a place for reflection.

At its heart lies the Historic City of Ahmedabad, inscribed by UNESCO in

2017 as India’s first World Heritage City. Within this labyrinth of pols – tightly

knit neighbourhoods linked by narrow lanes and shared courtyards –

carved havelis, stepwells and shrines testify to centuries of craftsmanship

and coexistence. Morning light catches latticed windows while evening

prayers echo between brick walls. It is a living museum and the prelude to

exploring the city’s historic core.

a palette of calm neutrals. The lobby’s striking installation – a cascade

of transparent and azure glass panels – recalls fabric drifting on a

river breeze, a lyrical nod to Ahmedabad’s weaving traditions and the

Sabarmati’s measured flow.

Dining spans four distinctive venues: The Market for global cuisine;

Bayleaf for Awadhi classics; Java+ for Illy coffee and pâtisserie, and

Drift – a poolside lounge that shifts effortlessly from daylight ease

to evening mood. The Explore Spa offers regional treatments, while

the outdoor pool and fitness centre anchor wellness. Guests also

enjoy complimentary access to Archer Art Gallery, Gujarat’s largest,

further connecting the hotel to the city’s creative pulse. Le Méridien

Ahmedabad fuses design, culture and craftsmanship with quiet

confidence – a contemporary expression of artistry and unhurried

discovery. www.lemeridienahmedabad.com

Le Méridien brings mid-century poise and an artful sensibility to

Ahmedabad. Within its serene interiors, 164 rooms and suites mirror the

city’s textile heritage through tailored silhouettes, hand-woven fabrics and


SON XOTANO

AT ONCE SOPHISTICATED AND ELEMENTAL, MALLORCA IS

the Balearic island where golden plains, limestone peaks

and Mediterranean light converge in effortless harmony. Beyond its

capital, Palma, the island reveals a quieter beauty – olive terraces,

stone villages, and coastlines carved by wind and sea. The Serra

de Tramuntana mountains, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, form a

dramatic backbone, their ridges tumbling towards fertile valleys

dotted with citrus groves. Artists and writers have long drawn

inspiration from this landscape, where the pace of life softens and

the scent of rosemary drifts through sun-warmed air. In every season,

Mallorca feels both timeless and vividly alive.

MALLORCA SPAIN

At the island’s tranquil centre lies Sencelles, a rural enclave surrounded

by almond orchards and rolling farmland. Winding lanes lead to

traditional fincas, dry-stone walls and sleepy village squares where

church bells punctuate the silence. It is Mallorca at its most authentic –

serene, rooted, and touched by the quiet grace of island life.

A 12th-century possessió in Sencelles reimagined for the present, Son

Xotano distils the soul of Annua Signature Hotels into its most personal

expression yet – a retreat of stillness, craftsmanship and quiet luxury.

Restored by Mallorcan studio ClapésPizà, the estate’s original stone

walls, vaulted ceilings and marès archways reveal a tactile narrative of

time, while interiors by Virginia Nieto Studio weave linen, clay, pine and

brushed metal into a language of calm. Each of the 22 rooms, including

14 suites, is a study in texture and light, with arched windows, open-sky

bathrooms, or walled patios shaded by olive trees.

Chef José María Borrás oversees the culinary direction, drawing

inspiration from island produce and memory itself. In El Celler, the

estate’s historic wine cellar, fire-grilled dishes meet softly lit conviviality,

while the vine-draped piazza hosts long, unhurried meals beneath the

stars. Wellness unfolds intuitively: massages in shaded courtyards,

yoga beneath pines, and treatments guided by nature’s rhythms.

Sustainability, too, is woven into every detail – from restored terraces to

rainwater harvesting and zero-kilometre sourcing. At Son Xotano, luxury

is expressed not in excess, but in presence. It is a place where time

lingers and every silence feels intentional.

https://annuahotels.com/en

35

BADEN-BADEN GERMANY

BRENNER'S PARK

HOTEL & SPA

GERMANY’S SOUTH-WESTERN STATE OF BADEN-

Württemberg is a region of rolling vineyards, dense forests and

elegant university towns, where innovation and tradition coexist with ease.

From Stuttgart’s automotive heritage to Heidelberg’s romantic riverbank

and Freiburg’s eco-conscious charm, the state brims with cultural texture

and natural beauty. The Black Forest’s misted peaks give way to lakes, spa

towns and castle-crowned valleys, while Michelin-starred kitchens and

family-run taverns showcase its culinary range. Rich in craftsmanship,

intellect and scenery, Baden-Württemberg embodies the cultivated heart of

southern Germany.

Nestled at the edge of the Black Forest, Baden-Baden has drawn seekers

of wellbeing since Roman times. Grand hotels, neoclassical colonnades and

leafy promenades frame its mineral springs, once favoured by European

aristocracy and artists alike. Today, the town’s elegant baths and galleries

sustain its reputation for refinement, while wooded hills and walking trails

begin just beyond the spa quarter. Equally cultured and restorative, Baden-

Baden remains a timeless retreat – where nature, art and indulgence meet in

graceful balance.

Between the leafy serenity of Lichtentaler Allee and the storybook charm of

Baden-Baden, Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa has recently reopened following

a meticulous two-year transformation. Oetker Collection’s grande dame

returns renewed yet unmistakably itself – a sanctuary of cultured living at

the gateway to the Black Forest. Interiors by Countess Bergit Douglas of

MM Design blend 19th-century Beaux-Arts grace with English eccentricity:

richly patterned textiles, antique desks and artisan-crafted chests create

27 distinctive room styles where no two suites are alike.

Behind its revived façade lies a world devoted to wellbeing. Brenners Spa

& Wellbeing unites high-tech diagnostics with holistic therapies, while the

adjoining medical care centre offers personalised programmes guided

by leading German physicians. Sustainability quietly underpins the hotel’s

renaissance, from locally quarried slate and up-cycled fittings to regional

sourcing and low-impact heating. Guests move easily between culture

and nature – from private access to the Festspielhaus to forest walks and

vineyard picnics. Once again, Brenners embodies the art of European

grand-hotel living: elegant, intelligent, and perfectly attuned to the rhythm

of Baden-Baden.

www.oetkerhotels.com

IMAGE: JAN DMITROVIC

36

We are thrilled to introduce the return of Coconuts, an iconic

venue in Cascais reopening its doors as an exclusive events

location. Coconuts captivates with its striking glass façade and

panoramic views over the ocean, providing the perfect setting

for a wide range of events, from weddings and corporate

meetings to fashion or automotive brand showrooms.

With capacity for up to 350 guests and a spacious hall featuring

direct large-scale access, the venue offers the versatility and

grandeur to host events where imagination knows no bounds.

LYON FRANCE

COUR DES LOGES

FRAMED BY THE RHÔNE AND SAÔNE RIVERS, LYON HAS

long been the meeting point of France’s geography and

spirit – a city shaped by commerce, craftsmanship, and culinary genius.

Once the silk-weaving capital of Europe, it remains a place where

elegance is stitched into daily life, from its Renaissance façades to its

bouchons serving time-honoured Lyonnaise recipes. The city’s rhythm

balances the classical and the contemporary: grand 19th-century

boulevards unfold from Roman amphitheatres, while the striking lines of

modern architecture rise beside medieval bell towers. A UNESCO World

Heritage Site since 1998, Lyon feels both rooted in history and quietly

avant-garde, its spirit defined as much by start-ups and galleries as by

old-world artisans and riverside cafés.

Across the Saône lies Vieux Lyon, the city’s most atmospheric quarter.

Here, cobbled lanes wind between ochre-toned mansions, Gothic spires,

and traboules – the covered passageways once used by silk workers. It’s

a district where history lingers tangibly in the air, and every turn reveals

another glimpse of the city’s Renaissance soul.

rediscovered antiques and soft, atmospheric lighting. Beneath

a 17-metre glass canopy, the hotel’s central courtyard forms a

dramatic heart where history, hospitality and art converge.

Chef Anthony Bonnet, who has led the kitchens for nearly two

decades, continues to honour Lyon’s gastronomic spirit at Les

Loges, where seasonal ingredients and classical technique are

served beneath the Renaissance vaults. The more casual Le

Comptoir offers contemporary takes on local flavours. And the

soon-to-open Pure Altitude Spa promises a serene retreat beneath

ancient stone arches. An elegant yet intimate dialogue between

past and present, Cour des Loges stands as a celebration of French

heritage, where every arch and courtyard tells a story reborn.

https://courdesloges.com/en

Behind the carved stone arches of a Renaissance ensemble in the old

town, Cour des Loges has reopened following an extensive restoration

that bridges six centuries of history. The 61 rooms and suites, each

uniquely designed, echo the craftsmanship of the 14th-century

buildings while embracing modern comfort through curated textures,


LEMALA OSONJOI LODGE

VAST AND VARIED, TANZANIA STRETCHES FROM THE PALMfringed

shores of the Indian Ocean to the great lakes and

volcanic highlands of its interior. It is a land of immense natural drama –

the Serengeti’s sweeping plains, Kilimanjaro’s snow-capped peak, and the

spice-laden islands of Zanzibar all part of its spell. Across this diversity

runs a quiet continuity: warm hospitality, deep cultural traditions, and an

unhurried rhythm shaped by the land itself. For travellers, Tanzania offers

a rare combination of wilderness and welcome, where the scale of nature

humbles and the experience of it restores.

Encircled by towering volcanic walls, the Ngorongoro Crater is one of

Africa’s most remarkable landscapes – a self-contained world alive with

wildlife. Formed two million years ago, this UNESCO World Heritage Site

shelters an extraordinary density of animals, from elephant herds and

black rhinos to prides of lion patrolling the grassy floor. Morning mists

drift across the rim before lifting to reveal acacia forests, alkaline lakes,

and endless movement below. Within the wider Ngorongoro Conservation

caldera. Guests are among the first to reach the Crater floor each

morning, entering a realm of lions, elephants and black rhino bathed in

the glow of Africa’s golden hour.

Area, Maasai communities live in harmony with their environment,

maintaining traditions as old as the land itself. It is a place where the

primal and the poetic meet.

Inside, twenty suites combine hand-finished timbers, charred wood and

panoramic windows framing the shifting light. Thoughtful touches – from

fireplaces and “secret nook” daybeds to artisanal glassware and woven

Perched high on the eastern rim of Ngorongoro Crater, Osonjoi redefines

what a safari lodge can be. Rising nearly 2,500 metres above sea level,

this solar-powered sanctuary is shaped by altitude, mist and moss as

much as by the wildlife below. Blending African-alpine design with deeprooted

sustainability, Osonjoi feels inseparable from its surroundings – a

throws – lend warmth to the high-altitude chill. Beyond the lodge, Maasailed

walks, forest bathing and private crater lunches create a rhythm of

experience both contemplative and exhilarating. A forest-spa suite also

houses the crater’s only indoor heated pool. Lemala Osonjoi is safari

lodge reimagined: intimate, intelligent, and profoundly connected to

place of rare stillness overlooking the world’s largest intact volcanic

place. www.lemalacamps.com

NGORONGORO TANZANIA

39

ISTANBUL TURKEY

SANASARYAN HAN

ISTANBUL’S STORY IS WRITTEN ACROSS CONTINENTS.

Divided by the Bosphorus and crowned by domes and

minarets, it is a city where empires have risen, fallen, and left indelible

marks upon the skyline. Once Byzantium, then Constantinople, and

now a metropolis of more than fifteen million, Istanbul bridges Europe

and Asia not just geographically but culturally, its soul balanced

between reverence and reinvention. Ottoman mosques neighbour sleek

galleries, calligraphers share streets with contemporary designers,

and fishermen cast lines beside ferries carrying commuters across the

strait. From morning markets to candlelit meyhanes, the city moves to a

rhythm that is uniquely, irresistibly its own.

Across the Golden Horn, the Old Town distils centuries of history into

a few square kilometres. Within its ancient walls, layers of civilisation

converge: Byzantine mosaics glint in the Hagia Sophia, while the

Blue Mosque’s domes echo the prayers of generations. At the Grand

Bazaar, jewellers and spice traders fill vaulted passages with colour

and scent, and in hidden courtyards, the hush of fountains

softens the city’s pace. Evening light gilds the rooftops of

Sultanahmet, and as the call to prayer drifts over the peninsula,

Istanbul’s oldest quarter feels eternal – the enduring heart of a

city forever reborn.

Stepping into Sanasaryan Han feels like crossing into a gentler

rhythm of Istanbul – one defined by grace, quiet confidence,

and the warmth of genuine hospitality. From the moment The

Cultured Traveller’s arrives, every encounter with the hotel’s

team is marked by effortless courtesy and an attention to detail

that feels both intuitive and heartfelt. Whether dining in Siran

Restaurant, being accompanied through the nearby Spice Bazaar

by a member of the concierge team, or sipping a cocktail in the

hotel's Library Bar, every member of staff is palpably invested in

making every moment meaningful – not through grand gestures,

but through sincerity.


Set within a sensitively restored 19th-century neoclassical

building, the hotel’s central atrium rises beneath a striking glass

installation that shimmers with the light of the day, creating a sense

of openness rare amidst the hussle and bustle of the Old Town.

Beautifully finished interiors blend modern restraint with Ottoman

echoes – soft curves, polished marble, rich woods, and delicate

textures that lend a subtle serenity to the space.

Upstairs, The Cultured Traveller’s one-bedroom Sanasaryan Han

Suite offers a perfectly proportioned luxury pied-à-terre, with a

tranquil bedroom, a marble-lined bathroom with a hammam-like

air, and thoughtful touches that make returning each evening a

pleasure. Yet it is the human element that truly defines this hotel.

Sanasaryan Han may be a haven of design and comfort, but it is

the warmth of its people – their pride, attentiveness, and quiet

generosity – that lingers long after departure.

www.theluxurycollection.com


41

BELGRADE

SERBIA

BELGR

a city where rivers meet a

CITY

FOCUS

ADE

nd histories collide

ON THE BANKS OF THE DANUBE AND SAVA, DEMELZA OXLEY EXPLORES

A MODERN CAPITAL FORGED BY EMPIRES AND REBORN BY CREATIVITY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALEKSANDAR MATIC

Kosančićev Venac district

King Peter's Street

Belgrade Fortress

BELGRADE IS A CITY SHAPED, SHAKEN

and sharpened by the centuries – a place

where Europe’s great fault lines have

collided and civilisation after civilisation has

staked its claim. To understand the spirit of

the Serbian capital today, you must first appreciate the deep

layers beneath it. Sitting at the junction of the Sava and the

Danube rivers, Belgrade has always been a strategic prize.

The Celts were the first to fortify this ridge above the water,

later succeeded by the Romans, who named it Singidunum and

built a mighty castrum on the hill. With the empire’s decline

came waves of conquest – Goths, Huns, Avars and Slavs – each

leaving faint fingerprints on the city’s early identity.

THROUGHOUT THE MEDIEVAL ERA, BELGRADE STOOD

on the frontline between the Christian kingdoms of Central

Europe and the expanding Ottoman Empire. Its white fortress

walls, gleaming in the sun, earned it the name Beograd –

the White City. For almost five centuries the Ottomans and

Habsburgs fought over this territory, passing it back and forth

in a sequence of sieges that would have broken the resolve of

many a city. Yet Belgrade endured, and the Serbian uprisings

of the early 19th century eventually paved the way for an

autonomous principality and, later, the Kingdom of Serbia.

IN THE 20TH CENTURY, THE CITY BECAME THE

heart of Yugoslavia, weathering two world wars, decades


CITY FOCUS

BELGRADE

of socialist federation under Tito, and the painful turmoil

of the 1990s that redefined the Balkans. Through each

transformation, Belgrade acquired a new chapter – Ottoman

echoes, Austro-Hungarian façades, socialist modernism and

bold contemporary design, all coexisting in an architectural

collage that is unmistakably its own. Today, the city hums with

creative renewal, its cultural verve and youthful optimism

visible at every turn.

NESTLED IN THE HEART OF SOUTHERN EUROPE,

Serbia is a landlocked nation bordered by a fascinating mosaic

of neighbours: Hungary to the north, Romania to the northeast

where the Danube draws a dramatic frontier, Croatia and

Montenegro to the west, and North Macedonia to the south.

Poised at this crossroads, Belgrade fuses its storied past with

an unmistakably forward-looking spirit. Reimagined industrial

quarters brim with creativity, while the city’s diverse food culture

spills onto riverside promenades. Wherever you wander, Belgrade

invites you to explore, taste and experience its multifaceted soul.

FEW CITIES IN EUROPE DISPLAY THEIR HISTORY SO

openly. Belgrade’s scars and triumphs sit side by side, each

hinting at the city’s remarkable resilience. And nowhere is this

more evident than at the monumental Temple of Saint Sava.

When the Second World War swept across Belgrade, the

temple existed only as foundations and rising walls.


45

CITY FOCUS

BELGRADE

Luckily its unfinished state became its salvation: occupying forces

simply repurposed the site as a parking lot, and later it served as

storage for the Partisans and Red Army during liberation. This

practical use spared the site from bombing, allowing the dream to

survive. Construction resumed decades later, culminating in the

completion of the temple's great dome in 1989.

Today, Saint Sava dominates the skyline – a gleaming vision

in white marble and granite, its green domes crowned with

golden crosses. Often compared to Hagia Sophia, it ranks

among the largest Orthodox churches in the world. Visitors

are greeted at the entrance by the “Our Father” prayer

inscribed in 24 languages, a gesture of unity that sets the

tone for what lies inside.

Beneath the soaring central dome, a vast Byzantine mosaic

of Christ Pantocrator radiates gold and cobalt light, while

patterned marble floors and columns shimmer beneath an

eight-ton chandelier. But look closely in a quiet stairwell and

you’ll spot masking tape and numbered markers – subtle

reminders of mosaics still to come, whispering that the temple’s

story continues.

Seven metres below ground, the crypt unfurls like an

opulent sanctuary – its arched ceilings awash in gold, frescoes

narrating sacred scenes, and the atmosphere suffused with

both reverence and artistry. A rare blend of grandeur and

authenticity, the temple's crypt feels as much an underground

gallery as a place of worship. www.svetogsave.com/en

National Assembly of Serbia

A 5-star boutique hotel which

prides itself on being the

epitome of authentic British

hospitality.

Located in the heart of

Knightsbridge on a quiet

residential street surrounded

by world -class shopping as well

as home to some of London’s

cultural hotspots.

Relax in our luxurious designed

rooms and apartments or savour

refined dining in our restaurant

by acclaimed Chef Tom Brown.

ON YOUR WAY FROM SAINT SAVA TO THE NIKOLA TESLA

Museum, be sure to pass by Trpković Bakery to refuel with

some burek. There will likely be a short queue out front, but it

will be worth it!

Housed in a dignified 1920s villa, the intimate Nikola Tesla

Museum vividly brings to life the Serbian-American engineer,

futurist, and inventor’s genius. A towering coil crackles with

electric energy, sending shimmering arcs towards fluorescent

tubes that glow as if by magic in visitors’ hands. Born in the

mid 19th-century, Tesla’s original letters, photographs and

personal belongings trace the arc of his extraordinary life –

from his Serbian roots to his trailblazing years in the United

States. Note that entry is cash only. www.tesla-museum.org/en

AS EVENING APPROACHES, WANDER INTO THE

affluent urban neighbourhood of Dorćol, set within one of the

oldest continuously lived-in quarters of the city. This historic

district has long been a place where cultures intersect, and

today it remains a beguiling blend of old-world architecture and

contemporary buzz. Elegant Austro-Hungarian façades frame

sunlit pavements lined with leafy trees, while cafés, cocktail

bars and independent boutiques spill effortlessly into the open

air. Around almost every corner, Dorćol reveals another layer

of its personality – from tucked-away courtyards and artisan

workshops to chic terraces filled with locals easing into the

evening with an espresso or a glass of wine.

A little further on at waterfront bar Ponta.011, in the

shadow of Silosi's towering 28-metre grain silos, the volume

rises as the last light slips across the Danube, making it the

perfect place for a sundowner. Once a symbol of industrial

might, the concrete towers behind the bar have been

transformed into monumental canvases for colorful street art

and graffiti. www.instagram.com/ponta.011

START THE NEXT MORNING ON BELGRADE’S BUSTLING

pedestrian boulevard, where the Zepter Museum overlooks

lively Knez Mihailova Street. Once a grand bank, its

neoclassical façade now ushers visitors into one of Serbia’s

foremost spaces for modern art, and the country’s first private

museum. Light washes across marble floors, illuminating

galleries that showcase a rotating collection of Serbian and

international works, from striking modernist canvases to

conceptual installations. Climb the staircase to rooms framed

by original stained-glass flourishes and stately doorways that

echo the building’s heritage. www.zeptermuzej.rs

Zepter Musem

JUST OFF REPUBLIC SQUARE, THE CULTURAL CENTER

of Belgrade gathers cinema, galleries and performance

spaces beneath one inclusive roof. Its fiercely independent

programming ranges from experimental film and photography

to literary festivals and conversations that probe Serbia’s

social currents. Its cinema – once voted the best in Europe

– adds a touch of character: only a handful of its 300 seats

are reservable, each marked with the name of an acclaimed

Serbian filmmaker. Emir Kusturica chose the central seat with

extra legroom as his own. More than a venue, this is a civic


CITY FOCUS

BELGRADE

Zindan Gate, Belgrade Fortress

Palace of Science

Belgrade Fortress

CITY FOCUS

BELGRADE

Zemun

Moscow Hotel on Terazije Square

salon, drawing locals and travellers into the city’s cultural

pulse. www.kcb.org.rs

AND THEN COMES A SOUVENIR RITUAL AT THE CENTRE

of the National Bank of Serbia which may be irresistible to

some. On the ground floor, glass displays exhibit historic

banknotes and coins – a glimpse into the nation’s financial

story, including its inflation crises. Reminiscent of a charming

old photo booth, guests can create their very own oversized

Serbian banknote – complete with their portrait. It is lighthearted

but oddly telling, given Belgrade’s long and complex

monetary history. www.centarzaposetioce.nbs.rs

NOT FAR AWAY, THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF ST.

Michael the Archangel stands as a beacon of heritage and

faith. Built in the mid-19th century and crowned with a

baroque bell tower visible from the riverfront, it has been

declared a Cultural Monument of Exceptional Importance.

Inside, gilded iconostasis panels and richly painted frescoes

create an atmosphere of solemn splendour. Sunlight pours

through tall windows, illuminating intricate woodwork and

polished black marble pillars. The cathedral also holds the

tombs of national icons such as Prince Miloš Obrenović and

language reformer Vuk Karadžić – making it both a spiritual

and cultural touchstone.

MIDWAY THROUGH THE DAY, BE SURE TO BREAK

for a hearty lunch at a traditional tavern, or Kahvana. Mali

Kalemegdan offers a taste of classic Serbian cuisine and warm

hospitality, set amidst the city's largest park, adjacent to the

fortress. Local dips and cheeses, cured meats, grilled chicken

and pork are accompanied by carafes of perfectly palatable

local wine, and followed by tantalising traditional desserts that

prove too hard to resist! www.instagram.com/malikalemegdan

AN HOUR OR SO BEFORE SUNSET, MAKE YOUR WAY

to Belgrade Fortress – the city’s ancient soul, perched above

the confluence of the Danube and Sava. These ramparts have

witnessed Roman legions, Byzantine defenders, Ottoman

pashas and Habsburg soldiers, each leaving their mark on its

layered stone over nearly two millennia.

Within its walls lies the small but deeply atmospheric Ružica

Church, where chandeliers fashioned from spent bullets, shell casings

and gun barrels hang above the nave – a haunting yet hopeful

symbol of peace forged from the remnants of conflict. Nearby, the

Chapel of Saint Petka shelters a long-venerated spring, its water

still considered blessed by worshippers who visit daily.

Towering above the fortress stands the Victor Monument, a

bronze sentinel created by sculptor Ivan Meštrović, a falcon in

one hand and a lowered sword in the other – a proud emblem of

resilience raised in the late 1920s. Today, the fortress is more

celebration than citadel, and during the summer months its

lawns and walkways echo with concerts, festivals and evening

gatherings as Belgraders and visitors alike watch the sky fade

over the rivers. www.beogradskatvrdjava.co.rs

AFTER BREAKFAST, HOP IN A TAXI AND CROSS THE

Sava to Zemun – once an Austro-Hungarian village and now

a charming suburb that feels a world apart from the city centre.

For chauffeur-driven transfers, particularly from the airport, The

Cultured Traveller uses cars provided by www.BalkanHolidays.rs.

In Zemun, the tiered spire of the Church of St. Nicholas rises

above pastel-hued houses, anchoring the neighbourhood with

heritage and grace. We wander past wrought-iron balconies


51

CITY FOCUS

BELGRADE

Zemun

Victor Monument

and shuttered windows, pausing in the busy, sprawling food

and flower market, where seasonal produce and freshly baked

bread scent the air. If you are a serious gourmand, don't miss

Pretop and its trademark pork served with sparkling wine.

BACK ACROSS THE RIVER IN NEW BELGRADE, THE

Museum of Contemporary Art – designed by Ivan Antić and

Ivanka Raspopović – is celebrating six decades since opening

its modernist doors. Its carefully choreographed galleries are

best explored from the top down, tracing Yugoslav and Serbian

art from the 20th century to today. The museum’s 8,000-strong

collection includes a standout international section featuring

artists such as David Hockney, who first exhibited here in

1970 and returned over fifty years later with a headline

retrospective. www.msub.org.rs

STEPPING THROUGH THE FRONT DOOR OF THE ROYAL

Palace feels like crossing into a regal world, one shaped by

carved stone, sweeping staircases and the weight of tradition.

Our private tour of the grand 1920s Serbian-Byzantine stucco

villa unfolds through salons, halls and courtyards usually

far from view – each room revealing another layer of the

Karađorđević legacy. The sumptuous basement interiors are

a visual banquet: a pink-hued lounge adorned with peacock

motifs, and ceilings crowned with golden baroque frescoes of

swirling florals leads through an ornate Moorish-style archway

into a softly lit, green-toned cinema room. Yet, what makes the

moment truly remarkable, is knowing that HRH Crown Prince

Alexander and Crown Princess Katherine are in residence just

one floor above, as we explore their home, its atmosphere still

very much lived-in rather than preserved behind velvet ropes.

Moving through colonnades, tapestried corridors and finally

the family’s private chapel, the privilege of glimpsing a royal

residence, that few ever see so up-close-and-personal, never

really leaves us. www.royalfamily.org/palaces

DOWN BY THE SAVA, THE BELGRADE WATERFRONT

development signals the city’s most ambitious urban

transformation in generations. This vast mixed-use district

stretches along the right bank of the river, replacing former

rail yards and industrial plots with glass-fronted towers,

landscaped promenades and new public spaces. At its heart,

Galerija Belgrade, destined to be one of the region’s largest

shopping and lifestyle centres, is anchored by a cinema complex

and a broad riverfront terrace. Here, terraces open onto the

Sava Promenade, where locals stroll, cycle and sit with ice

creams while boats glide by. www.galerijabelgrade.com/en

Rising above it all is Kula Belgrade, a new 42-storey tower

whose reflective façades mirror the movement of the Sava.

Within this gleaming city landmark sits The St. Regis Belgrade

– a sleek riverside sanctuary bringing refined service and

sweeping views to the Serbian capital. www.st-regis.marriott.com

Ten minutes' walk away, The Bristol Belgrade has recently

been reborn following a painstaking restoration. First opened

in 1912 and long considered an architectural gem, the hotel’s

historic façade has been returned to its former glory, while

interiors today blend heritage details with contemporary

comfort. https://thebristolbelgrade.com Together, these two

addresses now set the benchmark for hospitality in the city

– one a glittering newcomer in a futuristic tower, the other a

grande dame returned to life.

LOOKING AHEAD, BELGRADE IS PREPARING TO HOST

Expo 2027 under the theme “Play for Humanity: Sport


The Temple of Saint Sava

CITY FOCUS

BELGRADE

and Music for All.” More than 127 countries have already

committed to pavilions during the three-month event, running

from 15 May to 15 August 2027. This spirit of international

collaboration echoes the world’s first exposition – London’s

Great Exhibition of 1851 – when nations gathered to showcase

innovations shaping the modern world. Nearly two centuries

later, Belgrade is poised to welcome more than four million

participants, with the Expo serving as a catalyst for an entirely

new urban district. www.expobelgrade2027.org/en

FROM RIVERSIDE QUARTERS STEEPED IN HISTORY

to contemporary art spaces, visionary architecture and creative

reinvention, Belgrade reveals itself as a city in constant

motion. Ancient fortresses host rock concerts, royal palaces

open their doors, and revitalised industrial districts pulse with

new life. With Expo 2027 set to usher in the capital’s boldest

transformation yet, there has never been a more compelling

moment for the cultured traveller to experience

Belgrade in full stride – vibrant, resilient and rising

with unmistakable confidence. www.expobelgrade2027.org/

A

Silosi Beograd

Skadarlija

Sava Square

SET ON THE BANKS OF THE RIVER

Danube, perhaps nowhere in Belgrade

better signifies the Serbian capital’s creative

renaissance than the towering concrete grain silos

of Silosi, their 28-metre façades now transformed by

vivid large-scale murals. Once a dormant industrial

site, this riverside complex has been reimagined

as a cultural hub where a non-profit organisation

curates exhibitions, performances and community

events beneath the looming cylinders. Outside,

a climbing wall underscores the city’s instinct

for reinvention, while the surrounding waterfront

continues to evolve into a lively urban promenade.

www.silosi.rs

FOR A MOMENT OF CALM IN THE MIDST OF

a busy day, head to Jevremovac, Belgrade’s

19th-century botanical gardens and one of

the city’s most serene spaces. Established in

1874 and gifted its present site by King Milan

Obrenović, the garden unfurls across several

leafy hectares, home to more than a thousand

plant species. Its elegant Japanese Garden,

with its pond, arched bridges and carefully

composed landscaping, offers a rare moment

of Zen-like calm in the capital. Shaded pathways

and historic glasshouses create the feeling of

stepping into a living museum of Balkan botany.

https://jevremovac.bio.bg.ac.rs

ONE OF CITY’S MOST DRAMATICALLY RESHAPED

public spaces, now incorporated in the Belgrade

Waterfront district, Sava Square is anchored

by the monumental bronze-and-stone statue

of Stefan Nemanja – founder of the medieval

Serbian state. The square forms a broad civic

plateau linking the grand façades of the old

railway station with the new, glassy skyline

rising at the edge of the Sava. Its generous

pedestrian areas and clean lines give a sense of

the city in motion, bridging its layered past with

its ambitious future.

IN THE SOUTHERN OUTSKIRTS OF BELGRADE,

atop the forested slopes of Mount Avala,

stands the Monument to the Unknown Hero.

Designed by renowned sculptor Ivan Meštrović

and completed in 1938, the black granite

mausoleum resembles an ancient temple, its

eight caryatid figures guarding the entrance

with quiet dignity. The site honours soldiers

who fell in the Balkan Wards and the First World

War, and its elevated position affords sweeping

views across the plains, where Belgrade’s

silhouette rises faintly on the horizon.


CITY FOCUS

BELGRADE

WITHIN WALKING DISTANCE OF THE MONUMENT,

the futuristic outline of Avala Tower

punctuates the skyline. Rising to 204 metres,

the structure is Serbia’s tallest building

and a symbol of resilience – rebuilt in 2010

after its 1999 destruction. A high-speed lift

whisks visitors to an observation deck set

within its distinctive tripod frame, revealing

a widescreen panorama that stretches deep

into the Serbian countryside. On clear days,

the Danube glints like a distant thread, and

Belgrade’s neighbourhoods spread out in a

textured patchwork far below.

https://avalskitoranj.rs

IN THE HEART OF THE OLD TOWN, SKADARLIJA

District is arguably Belgrade’s most atmospheric

quarter. This cobbled, gently curving street has

long been associated with artists, musicians and

poets, its romantic patina preserved in pastel

façades, wrought-iron balconies and vintage

lanterns. Though undeniably popular today,

Skadarlija still carries the spirit of its bohemian

past, and is best appreciated in the early morning

or later at night, when the stones seem to whisper

stories of the city’s creative soul.

SEE

FROM BOLD RIVERSIDE REINVENTIONS TO

BOTANICAL GARDENS AND SOARING MODERNIST

LANDMARKS, BELGRADE REVEALS A CITY ALIVE

WITH ARTISTIC ENERGY, ARCHITECTURAL AMBITION

AND MOMENTS OF UNEXPECTED SERENITY

Monument to the Unknown Hero and Avala Tower

LOCATED IN THE CITY'S BUSINESS DISTRICT,

the recently revitalised Sava Center stands as

one of Belgrade’s most distinctive architectural

landmarks. Its sweeping angular lines and

expansive glass façades embody the ambition

of late-20th-century Yugoslav modernism,

while sympathetic restoration has returned

its vast interiors to their original clarity and

scale. Today, the complex once again hosts an

impressive programme of performing arts, from

visiting orchestras to contemporary dance

companies, with most performances happening

in the massive 4,000 capacity Blue Hall, which

also hosts pop concerts and film screenings.

www.savacentar.rs

Jevremovac Botanical Gardens

Dragoljub

IMAGE: LJUBO AS_C_ERIC_

Velika Skadarlija

BELGRADE CULINARY ADVENTURE

A is best begun on the street, ideally in

the soft morning light near Saint Sava, where

the aromas of warm dough and toasted sesame

drift across the pavement. Few places capture

the city's daily rhythm better than Trpković

Bakery, which opened in the early 1900s and has

been woven into Belgrade life ever since. Still

family-run, the bakery is instantly recognisable

for its ornate façade and the patient queues

that form. Inside, bakers work at remarkable

pace, replacing trays of burek – crisp, flaky, and

variously filled – straight from the oven. Shelves

brim with poppy-seed rolls, cheese-stuffed

pastries, rustic breads and buttery croissants,

all made using long-held recipes and traditional

techniques. Warm, bustling and deeply rooted in

the neighbourhood, Trpković remains one of the

most authentic ways to ease into the flavours of

the Serbian capital.

https://pekaratrpkovic.rs

IN ZEMUN, THE SPIRE OF ST NICHOLAS RISES

above pastel houses while the weekend market

hums with life and brims with fresh vegetables,

meats, fish, flowers, and more. Tucked into one

particular covered passageway, where the

scent of freshly baked bread is omnipresent,

sits PRETOP – tiny, unpretentious, rightly adored,

and the perfect place to begin to understand

Serbia’s meat-driven soul. Take a seat and feast

on succulent pork with burnished crackling,

rich dipping gravy, warm homemade breads,

and a couple of dangerously good desserts, all

prepared with love and served with warmth, and

accompanied by a rather palatable sparkling

blanc de blancs. Be sure to allow an hour and

arrive hungry.

instagram.com/pret_op

Trpković Bakery

Pretop

Vanja Puškar

ESTABLISHED SINCE 1871 AND A REFINED

kafana located on Belgrade’s cobbled Skadarska

Street, Velika Skadarlija restaurant offers a

polished take on traditional Serbian tavern

dining. Wide banquettes, large chairs, polished

wood and soft lighting frame a menu of roasted

and grilled meats, local charcuterie and cheeses,

and generous salads. On a Saturday night,

the atmosphere is spirited as live music fills

the room and every table is taken with locals

determined to enjoy themselves.

www.restoranvelikaskadarlija.com/en

SAVANOVA BRINGS AN EASY, SUN-LIT CHARM

to the Sava Promenade – a glass-fronted

riverside brasserie where warm service and

unhurried dining set the tone. Generous platters

of cured meats, cheeses and ajvar open meals,


CITY FOCUS

BELGRADE

TASTE

BELGRADE EATS WITH CONFIDENCE. FROM A CENTURY-OLD BAKERY AND A

MARKET PORK COUNTER, TO POLISHED RIVERFRONT DINING AND CONTEMPORARY

NEW BALKAN CUISINE, ACROSS THE CITY, TRADITION AND CREATIVITY SIT

COMFORTABLY SIDE BY SIDE, REVEALING A CAPITAL DEFINED BY BOLD FLAVOURS,

GENEROUS PORTIONS, AND A CULINARY IDENTITY VERY MUCH ITS OWN

before the kitchen leans into Mediterranean-

Balkan comfort with contemporary flair.

Standout for The Cultured Traveller was a

perfectly cooked steak served on a fiercely hot

plate, still sizzling as garlic butter was spooned

over blushing slices. With its relaxed atmosphere,

river views and quietly polished style, Savanova

is one of Belgrade Waterfront’s most appealing

spots to settle in for a Sunday afternoon.

https://savanova.rs

Savanova

CHEF VANJA PUŠKAR HAS BECOME ONE OF

the central figures in Serbia’s contemporary

culinary movement, championing a philosophy

he calls New Balkan Cuisine. His approach

blends deep respect for regional traditions

with a modern sensibility, reimagining the

flavours and stories of the Balkans for a

new generation. Rooted in local produce

and crafted with refined technique, his food

celebrates both the land and the people who

shape it – farmers, foragers, winemakers and

guests alike. Puškar’s aim is not merely to

reinterpret classic dishes, but to reposition

Balkan gastronomy as a confident, creative

force with its own cultural identity. His

Belgrade restaurant Dragoljub extends

this vision into the realm of the kafana,

transforming the beloved tavern format

into something altogether more considered.

Located beside Atelje 212, it pays homage to

familiar flavours while presenting them through

an elevated, contemporary frame – from refined

starters to beautifully reworked mains and

thoughtful desserts. It is here that Puškar’s

culinary language becomes most vivid, offering a

fresh and quietly sophisticated reading of Balkan

comfort food. www.newbalkancuisine.com

Savant Brasserie

OVERLOOKING THE SAVA, SAVANT BRASSERIE

at The St. Regis Belgrade hotel sets a new

benchmark for refined dining in the Serbian capital.

Bathed in natural light and appointed with polished

brass, deep-red banquettes and immaculate

white linen-clad tables, the space exudes quiet

confidence, which is a fitting stage for the

restaurant’s ingredient-driven cuisine. The kitchen

draws on Serbia’s rich terroir with contemporary

finesse, from delicately dressed local beef

carpaccio to expertly prepared pastas showcasing

the season’s brightest flavours. Service is notably

attentive yet never overbearing, lending the dining

experience an unhurried elegance that is rare in

the city. With its comprehensive wine list, expert

and friendly sommelier, and beautifully composed

plates, Savant Brasserie is where Belgrade’s

modern-day culinary ambitions feel fully realised.

https://st-regis.marriott.com


59

Bojkovčanka Distillery

Isabel Speakeasy

Bojkovčanka Distillery

THIRTY MINUTES SOUTH OF BELGRADE,

the Bojkovčanka Distillery and Museum

offers a vivid glimpse into Serbia’s enduring rakija

culture. Founded in 1985 as the country’s first

legally registered private distillery, it marked a

quiet revolution at a time when the state held the

monopoly on production. Bojkovčanka remains

intentionally small, crafting around 30,000 litres

a year from the region’s superb plum varieties,

as well as some rakija made from quince. Visitors

follow narrow, winding roads into the hills before

arriving at a striking cubist-style building, set

between the original family residence on one side,

and the distillery on the other. Here, guests are

warmly welcomed personally, shown around the

museum, and tastings unfold slowly, revealing

rakija not merely as a drink, but as a symbol of

Serbian hospitality and artisanal pride.

https://quburich.rs

KULTURA BAR HAS BEEN STIRRING BELGRADE

awake since 2012, opening its doors at 09:00 with

smooth coffee before slipping effortlessly into

its sultrier evening persona. Manager Vukašim

sets the tone – worldly, discerning and warmly

charismatic – while Dunja, trained in-house and now

a confident presence behind the bar, brings craft

and charm in equal measure. As daylight fades,

the room hums with low lighting and easy glamour.

The twice-yearly Heritage Cocktail menu is the

real temptation, each drink a seductive, story-led

creation that lingers long after the glass is empty.

www.facebook.com/KulturaBar

Kultura Bar

HIDDEN BEHIND A FAKE DOOR AND DOWN A

flight of plush stairs into a crimson-lit underworld,

Isabel Speakeasy has been seducing Belgrade’s

night owls since 2022. With only 30 seats, the

room hums with intimacy – all dark shadows, red

glow and whispered anticipation. Co-owner and

mixologist Nemanja, formerly a chef in a Michelinstar

kitchen in Croatia, approaches cocktails with

gastronomic flair, often collaborating with local

artisans and businesses. The bar’s signature

“Essence of Dragon” cocktail arrives with a

bespoke white-chocolate fortune cookie, which is a

playful and decadent touch in one of the city’s most

intoxicating hideaways.

www.instagram.com/isabelspeakeasy

SINCE ITS DECEMBER 2024 DEBUT, NOBLE ROOTS

bar has emerged as Belgrade’s boldest cocktail

destination – just 30 seats, an electric atmosphere

and every detail charged with purpose. Owners

Tony Pescatori and Tess Mamakova have built

more than a bar: their “Flavour Lab” hums with a

rotary vacuum evaporator, while just beyond town

their own land blossoms into botanicals destined

for the glass. Whether you browse the informative

menu or hand the bartender a challenge, your drink

arrives with presentation and precision. Under

General Manager Marko’s warm welcome and the

young team of Jovan, Oli and Ogün, every visit feels

vibrant, fresh and undeniably fun.

www.nobleroots.bar

GUESTS RING FOR ENTRY BEFORE BEING

ushered inside Riddle Bar, one of Skadarlija’s most

distinctive no-menu cocktail rooms. Open for seven

years, its long, low-lit space channels a refined

gentlemen’s club, complete with deep booths and

a superb retro–disco soundtrack. Once seated and


CITY FOCUS

BELGRADE

SIP

Noble Roots

FROM A HERITAGE RAKIJA DISTILLERY AND

HIDDEN SPEAKEASIES TO AN INNOVATIVE FLAVOUR

LAB AND A DELUXE HOTEL BAR, BELGRADE’S

DRINKING SCENE BLENDS TRADITION, CRAFT AND

AFTER-DARK ALLURE IN CAPTIVATING FASHION

comfy, patrons share their flavour preferences and

the bar team creates cocktails tailored entirely to

taste – a personalised ritual that adds a sense of

theatre to the evening. Elegant and discreet, Riddle

Bar brings a touch of old-world polish to Belgrade’s

vibrant night scene. www.riddle.bar

HANDS-DOWN THE MOST SOPHISTICATED

drinking venue The Cultured Traveller visited in

Belgrade, The St. Regis Bar envelops guests in a

world of polished glamour from the moment one

settles onto a leather stool at its granite counter.

Inspired by the legendary King Cole Bar in New

York, the space pairs rich walnut panelling with a

marble-clad fireplace and a sweeping hand-painted

mural depicting Serbian fairies mid-kolo, giving

the space a sense of theatre and cultural depth.

Low lighting, deep armchairs and a sculptural backlit

display set the scene for cocktails crafted with

poise – from a classic Espresso Martini through

to the Belgrade-influenced Essentially Quince, a

local interpretation of the St. Regis Bloody Mary.

Intimate, elegant and quietly decadent, The St.

Regis Bar is the city’s most assured expression of

modern luxury drinking. https://st-regis.marriott.

com

The St. Regis Bar

The St. Regis Bar

ROKSANDA ILINČIĆ IS ALMOST

certainly Serbia’s most influential

fashion figure, her work being defined by saturated

colour, sculptural forms, and an architectural

sensibility shaped during her early studies in

Belgrade. After completing her MA at Central Saint

Martins, she founded her eponymous Londonbased

label, Roksanda, which has since become

a favourite among cultural icons and modern

style arbiters. Though Ilinčić's collections are

presented internationally, her impact is very much

felt back in her home city, where Belgrade’s more

progressive boutiques often champion the region’s

rising designers, who often cite her as a creative

touchstone.

https://roksanda.com

SINISA JANJIĆ, WHO WORKS UNDER THE

artistic name Primitive RE, is a Belgrade-based

contemporary artist known for his vivid, instinctive

compositions across painting, drawing, mixed

media and sculpture. A self-taught creator, he

builds energetic works defined by bold colour

fields, dynamic lines and layered textures that

explore movement, emotion and modern urban

life. His pieces range from expressive large-format

canvases to more intimate works on paper, all

carrying his recognisable rhythmic style. Janjić

Sinisa Janjić aka Primitive RE

Jevremova25

lives and works in Belgrade and available works

can be viewed at www.saatchiart.com/en-cy/re88.

www.instagram.com/re_avav

THE CHARMING STREETS OF BELGRADE’S

Dorćol quarter are home to a handful of notable

shops and galleries. Amongst them, Blatobran

Gallery has spent more than a decade as an open,

artist-led platform championing Serbia’s ceramic

talent. Its shelves display an ever-changing

selection of handmade porcelain, stoneware,

jewellery and wall installations by both emerging

and established makers, many of whom are gaining

international recognition. Alongside exhibitions, the

gallery hosts community-minded programmes –

from experimental workshops on recycling plastic

bags to social-impact craft projects supporting

vulnerable groups. Warm, neighbourly and quietly

influential, Blatobran is one of Belgrade’s most

rewarding stops for authentic, small-batch Serbian

design. www.Blatobran.com

Jevremova 25 offers a layered experience of

shopping discovery. Browse a curated range of

pieces by local niche brands and designers from

the region, including t-shirts and hoodies

by Yugochic, womenswear by iJa Label,

Croatian-classic Startas sneakers, and thoughtful

Blatobran Gallery

Jane Doe Vintage Shop

CITY FOCUS

BELGRADE

SPEND

BELGRADE’S BOUTIQUES AND ATELIERS REVEAL A CITY BRIMMING WITH

CREATIVITY – FROM HERITAGE CRAFTS AND EXPRESSIVE CERAMICS TO

CONTEMPORARY FASHION, VINTAGE FINDS AND BOLD DESIGN TALENT. THIS IS A

CAPITAL WHERE SHOPPING BECOMES CULTURAL DISCOVERY, EACH STOP OFFERING

A SENSE OF SERBIA’S IDENTITY AND ARTISTIC CONFIDENCE

home-objects by Kiara de Zen. A smaller space

dedicated to dancewear, Backstage Dance,

brings ballet and studio-gear into the fold. With its

multifaceted concept and relaxed atmosphere,

Jevremova 25 is a smart one-stop shop for stylish

clothing from Serbia and its neighbours.

www.facebook.com/Jevremova25

Founded in 2008, Jane Doe Vintage Shop was

Serbia’s first dedicated vintage boutique, offering

treasures spanning 1980s kitsch through to

1990s vogue. The ground-floor space is warm and

welcoming, framed by vintage magazines, retro

gadgets and artful décor. Upstairs, the adjoining

boutique presents handmade fashion items by

Serbian designers, featuring clothing, jewellery,

belts, hats and home décor. Whether you’re looking

for a bold one-off jacket or seeking sculptural

accessories with character, Jane Doe delivers with

charm. Visit the café area to pause for a cup of tea

between browsing.

www.facebook.com/JaneDoeVintageShop

Roksanda Ilinčić

Nonna Handmade

ČUMIĆEVO SOKAČE – WIDELY REFERRED TO AS

the Belgrade Design District – is a repurposed

1990s shopping passage just off Terazije that

today acts as a compact hub for contemporary

Serbian creativity. Its network of small units hosts

independent fashion labels, jewellery studios,

concept stores and design-forward ateliers,

making it ideal for browsing locally made pieces

and discovering emerging designers with a strong

sense of identity. Notable names include KETZ,

known for handmade recycled-material jewellery,

and Ana Ljubinković, celebrated for her bold,

sculptural womenswear.

www.instagram.com/CumicDesignDistrict

NONNA HANDMADE IS ONE OF SERBIA’S MOST

compelling heritage-driven studios, dedicated

to reviving the country’s textile traditions with

remarkable authenticity and finesse. Founded by

sisters Nataša and Sladjana Milojević, the atelier

works exclusively with natural fabrics and preserves

embroidery, weaving and lacework techniques that

trace back to the 19th century and earlier. Each piece

is crafted by a collective of seven skilled women

from rural Western Serbia, whose knowledge has

been passed down through generations, ensuring

every shirt, collar or textile panel carries a distinct

personal imprint. Based in Užice, with a showroom

in the Belgrade Design District, the studio blends

traditional motifs with contemporary design to create

meaningful keepsakes and modern heirlooms. Its

reputation has grown well beyond Serbia, attracting

international clients and even a Hollywood following,

with actor Edward Norton purchasing several

embroidered shirts during filming in the country.

https://NonnaHandmade.com


63

a celestial

hideaway above

historic buda

O B S E R V A T O R Y S U I T E

➤ KIMPTON BEM BUDAPEST, HUNGARY

suit e envy

AT THE PINNACLE OF MARCEL WANDERS’ VISIONARY

REVIVAL OF A 19TH-CENTURY LANDMARK, NICHOLAS

CHRISOSTOMOU ASCENDS TO A CONTEMPORARY

SKY-INSPIRED SUITE, COMPLETE WITH ITS OWN ROOF

TERRACE, HIGH ABOVE BUDA’S CHARISMATIC RIVERSIDE

AGOS Restaurant


BUDAPEST IS OFTEN DESCRIBED AS

a city of two souls, yet it is the quieter,

more contemplative Buda bank that

best reveals the Hungarian capital’s

layered personality. Here, life unfolds

at a gentler pace. Forested hills rise above cobbled lanes.

Church spires pierce the skyline. And the vast sweep

of the Danube, muscular yet unhurried, separates this

serene western half of the city from the energetic, cafélined

boulevards of Pest across the water. Buda’s castle

district – with its medieval bastions, neo-Romanesque

terraces and commanding vantage points – remains the

city’s most atmospheric historic quarter, a place where

centuries of empire and upheaval have left a richly

textured architectural legacy.

IT IS WITHIN THIS SETTING, JUST A SHORT

stroll from Buda Castle and facing the square of Bem

József Tér, that Kimpton BEM Budapest has anchored

itself. The hotel occupies a once-forgotten 19th-century

building whose pale façade, tall windows and rhythmic

arches subtly echo the aristocratic mansions of the

neighbourhood. Here, mere metres from the river’s edge,

the hotel feels both connected to Buda’s regal past and

attuned to its contemporary creative energy. Step inside,

and the city’s story begins to shift – from the patina of

history outside to the playful, theatrical world of Marcel

Wanders within.

Hotel Lobby

Kimpton BEM Budapest

MARCEL WANDERS’ TRANSFORMATION OF THE

property is nothing short of a narrative reset. What was

once a dormant structure has been reimagined into what

the hotel bills as an “urban cool kid” hideaway – a bold

description that proves surprisingly apt as soon as I cross

its threshold. The building’s bones remain: the stately

proportions, the rhythmic symmetry, the sense of historic

permanence. Yet Wanders has overlaid this heritage

with a design language that is vibrant, tactile and often

joyfully unexpected.

ACROSS THE HOTEL – FROM BAR HUSO’S

polished glamour to the sculptural forms of the Marcel

Wanders Salon – the interior scheme speaks in his

signature vocabulary: generous curves, ornamental

flourishes, and a playful negotiation between grandeur

and intimacy. Decorative lighting glows like jewellery.

Colours are rich without being heavy. Furniture appears

collected rather than simply specified. Everywhere,

moments of whimsy disrupt the predictable, pulling

guests into a world where imagination and craftsmanship

comfortably coexist.


65

THE PUBLIC SPACES OFFER THE CLEAREST

example of Wanders’ alchemy. AGOS, the hotel’s lofty

Mediterranean-Hungarian restaurant, feels airy and

contemporary yet grounded by architectural gestures

that reference Budapest’s historic palaces. Bar HUSO

– named for the legendary beluga sturgeon that once

swam the Danube – is designed as a sleek, immersive

lounge that shifts mood elegantly throughout the

day. And atop the building, FENNEN rises like a

modern glass pavilion, a rooftop oasis that echoes

the city’s skyline by day and flickers with warm light

by night. Together, these spaces form a cohesive

atmosphere: urbane, layered, and distinctly European

in its approach to hospitality, where design does not

overwhelm but rather frames experience.

CRUCIALLY, WANDERS’ HAND CAN BE FELT NOT

just in individual gestures but in the total composition.

The hotel’s reinvention honours the building’s origins

without becoming beholden to them. Rather than

restore a museum piece, Wanders has created a livedin,

contemporary environment that celebrates craft,

artistry and a sense of curated discovery – an approach

well-suited to Budapest, a city where the old and the

avant-garde often share the same street.

THIS SENSIBILITY EXTENDS THROUGHOUT THE

guest accommodation. Each room category presents a

different expression of the hotel’s design DNA, blending

bold patterns with finely crafted joinery, sculptural

lighting and a colour palette that leans into velvety

blues, warm woods and metallic accents. Even the

wellness areas embodies the same tactile richness,

reflecting a philosophy that luxury should be sensorial

rather than merely decorative.


SUITE ENVY

KIMPTON BEM BUDAPEST

AT THE VERY TOP OF THE BUILDING, THE

Observatory Suite distils this design philosophy into

its most intimate and atmospheric expression. The

journey begins in a long, dimly lit private corridor hung

with fantastical astronomical artwork. It creates the

sense of entering a cinematic portal – a deliberate shift

from the hotel below into a realm inspired by celestial

exploration and cosmic imagination.

THE SUITE OPENS INTO A GENEROUS LIVING

and dining area where deep sapphire tones meet warm

timber and sculptural forms. A custom wall of wooden

cabinetry frames the space like a gallery installation,

its open niches displaying curated objects and books.

Soft lighting washes over the room, catching textured

surfaces and creating a sense of depth. A telescope

stands poised by the window – a playful yet symbolic

gesture – inviting guests to look out with the same

curiosity the design encourages within.

A STATEMENT BAR AREA AT ONE END OF THE

room, dressed in inky lacquer and fluted glass, gives the

space a residential feel, echoing the city’s café culture

and offering a theatrical stage for some pre-dinner

cocktail-making. Throughout, the furnishings are

tactile and welcoming: a velvet sofa in midnight blue,

an over-sized golden-hued armchair, and a

dining table ideal for leisurely breakfasts or intimate

private dinners.

THE BEDROOM CONTINUES THE COSMIC

narrative with a spectacular ceiling mural, which I gaze

up at as I fall asleep. A swirling astral composition, it is

illuminated by soft perimeter lighting, so the artwork

appears to hover above the room. The headboard wall

carries a graphic pattern that echoes constellations.

By the window, a deep freestanding bathtub sits in a

mosaic-lined alcove.

YET THE SUITE’S TRUE EXHALE COMES

outdoors. A private terrace spans a large chunk of the

rooftop, offering space for al fresco dining, sun-soaked

lounging and long summer evenings above Buda's

rooftops. It is an unexpected luxury in this corner of

the city – a quiet eyrie where guests can experience

Budapest's changing light, from the pale glow of dawn

to the gold-and-cobalt hues of dusk. It is the perfect

place for a soirée or naughty rendezvous.

THE OBSERVATORY SUITE IS MORE THAN A

statement accommodation; it is a self-contained world.

Wanders’ playfulness meets Budapest’s sense of history.

Texture and light combine to create atmosphere.

And the suite’s celestial theme – never gimmicky,

always refined – lends it a narrative identity that feels

entirely its own. High above Bem József Tér, it offers

a rare combination: creative design, true privacy, and

an apartment-like hideaway in one of Europe’s most

characterful and happening capitals.

The average nightly rate for the Observatory Suite at

Kimpton BEM Budapest is EUR 3,500 inclusive of breakfast

and taxes. https://kimptonbembudapest.com


67

C O U P O L E S U I T E

➤ HOTEL ST. GEORGE, HELSINKI, FINLAND

suit e envy

helsinki’s most poetic

hospitality perch

IN THE DESIGN DISTRICT OF THE FINNISH CAPITAL, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

STAYS IN A QUIETLY CAPTIVATING RETREAT SHAPED BY ART, ARCHITECTURE

AND SOFT NORTHERN LIGHT, SET BENEATH A LANDMARK CUPOLA


HELSINKI IS ONE OF EUROPE’S

most understated capitals – a city

where the Baltic’s cool clarity mingles

with a deeply embedded design

culture, and where the outlines of

domes, towers and rationalist façades create an urban

rhythm that feels both measured and quietly elegant.

Its centre is compact, generous with green space, and

refreshingly walkable. Nowhere is this more apparent

than around Old Church Park, a beloved pocket of calm

where trees shade footpaths and locals frequent in all

seasons. Just beyond its edge stands Hotel St. George, on

the corner of Yrjönkatu and Lönnrotinkatu, its pale stone

façade and decorative detailing signalling both history

and new intentions. Within steps of the Design District

and only a short wander from the Esplanadi and Market

Square ferries, the hotel is perfectly situated for exploring

Finland’s capital – yet remains cocooned enough to feel

like a private city residence.

HOTEL ST. GEORGE OCCUPIES AN ENSEMBLE

of historic structures, the most significant of which is a

seven-storey Neo-Renaissance stone building designed

in 1890 by Onni Tarjanne – the architect behind Helsinki’s

National Theatre. Originally home to the Finnish Literature

Society and later a printing house, the property’s origins sit

at the intersection of culture, craftsmanship and national

identity. During its 21st-century transformation, original

architectural elements were carefully preserved, including

decorative tiling, carved balustrades and the façade’s

sculptural details. An adjacent Art Nouveau Rationalism

building, also by Tarjanne, was integrated into the hotel’s

footprint, resulting in a cohesive whole that bridges two

architectural eras with ease.

restorative atmosphere. Interior designer Carola Rytsölä

shaped the hotel’s visual identity using a palette of pearl

greys, soft greens and warm browns, complemented by

natural materials, generous textiles and light-reflective

finishes. Furniture from Scandinavian and European

manufacturers appear throughout, while herringbone

parquet brings warmth to the floors and sheer drapery

tempers Helsinki’s changing daylight.

ART PLAYS A CENTRAL ROLE IN THE HOTEL’S

personality. More than 300 works by Finnish and

international artists are displayed throughout, establishing

an atmosphere where creativity and contemplation feel

integral rather than decorative. The most dramatic

intervention is the sculptural creature suspended in the

entrance gallery, which sets a tone of transformation and

openness that continues throughout the building. Meanwhile,

the soaring Wintergarden – a glass-roofed courtyard filled

with greenery and an overhead installation by Pekka Jylhä

– operates as the property’s social heart, adapting fluidly for

dining, conversation and events.

INSIDE, THE AESTHETIC IS GUIDED BY A

commitment to contemporary Finnish design and a calm,


69

SUITE ENVY

HOTEL ST. GEORGE

ST. GEORGE’S ACCOMMODATIONS ARE UNIFIED

by the same principles of contemporary craft and

wellbeing. High-quality materials, invisible technology

and an emphasis on sleep comfort define the rooms and

suites, each of which benefits from natural light and

a curated selection of design pieces. Among the hotel's

five suites, the Coupole Suite is the most architecturally

distinctive, occupying the building’s uppermost corner,

beneath its sole, distinctive cupola.

AT THE VERY TOP OF THE BUILDING, THE

Coupole Suite undoubtedly offers one of Helsinki’s

most elevated retreats. Its architecture immediately

distinguishes it: a curved ceiling softens the room’s

geometry, while tall dual-aspect windows draw in

northern light, that changes subtly throughout the day.

Two modest terraces – one accessed through the bedroom,

the other from the living room – extend the suite outward,

offering quiet lookouts over the treetops of Old Church

Park and the rooftops of the surrounding district.

THE SUITE’S INTERIOR PALETTE IS

purposefully subdued, echoing the soft nudes and

powder tones referenced throughout the hotel’s design.

Hand-woven vintage rugs introduce some gentle pattern

underfoot, while furnishings speak to both Scandinavian

purity and European comfort. Pieces by Massproductions,

Sibast, and Randi Benchi sit alongside a sculptural sofa

whose curves mirror the architecture above. A curated

selection of lithographs by Finnish artists – among them

Lumikangas Pentti, and Tiitinen Netta – anchors the

space with cultural specificity.

IN THE SLEEPING AREA, A DUX BED CHANNELS

true northern indulgence. Its multi-layered spring

system and airy down duvets, produced with the

diligence Sweden is known for, provide me with one of

my most restorative sleeps ever. And the suite’s digital

controls allow me to fine-tune lighting, temperature

and ambience with unusual ease and precision. While

the well-designed bathroom pairs stone tiles with a

streamlined double vanity and simple, well-considered

fixtures, continuing the theme of refined restraint.

ARRANGED AROUND TALL WINDOWS, THE

living space positively encourages lingering, complete

with a complimentary minbar, replenished daily,

stocked with wine, champagne, and all manner of

moreish sweet treats. A library cabinet filled with books

signals the suite’s literary heritage; this was once a

building of knowledge and ideas, and the atmosphere

remains. Whether stepping onto the terrace for morning

coffee, writing by the soft Helsinki light, or simply

luxuriating beneath the curved cupola ceiling, the suite

feels like a private hideaway suspended above the city –

a place shaped by architecture, art and stillness.

The average nightly rate for the Coupole Suite at

Hotel St. George is EUR 1,840 inclusive of breakfast

and taxes.

www.stgeorgehelsinki.com


THE ULTIMATE LIFESTYLE

LUXE HIDEAWAY IN BUDAPEST

KIMPTON BEM BUDAPEST, H-1027 BUDAPEST, BEM JÓZSEF TÉR 3.

+36 1 883 9880 | WWW.KIMPTONBEMBUDAPEST.COM | KIMPTONBEM.SALES@IHG.COM 71

passport

supremacy

IN A WORLD WHERE BORDERS BLUR AND DIGITAL IDENTITIES PROMISE

PAPER-FREE TRAVEL, THE MODERN PASSPORT REMAINS BOTH STATUS

SYMBOL AND KEY TO GLOBAL MOBILITY. THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

EXAMINES THE SHIFTING HIERARCHY OF THE WORLD’S MOST POWERFUL

TRAVEL DOCUMENTS AND THE EVER-EVOLVING TRADE IN CITIZENSHIP


BOARDING

PASS

FOR MORE THAN A CENTURY, THE PASSPORT

has been the traveller’s most potent emblem of

belonging – a slim booklet that defines who we are

and, increasingly, how far we can go. Yet right now,

the hierarchy of global mobility has never been more nuanced.

SINGAPORE CURRENTLY TOPS THE HENLEY PASSPORT

Index with its citizens welcomed visa-free or visa-on-arrival to

193 destinations. South Korea and Japan follow close behind,

with 190 and 189 respectively. The UK ranks eighth. While the

United States, once the undisputed passport superpower, has

slipped to twelfth place with access to 180 – a striking comedown

from its 2014 peak. At the other end of the spectrum, holders of

Afghan and Syrian documents remain confined to fewer than 30

countries – a sobering reminder that freedom of movement is still

a privilege, not a right. www.henleyglobal.com

Portugal’s Golden Visa scheme continue

to lure affluent expatriates

WHAT WAS ONCE A SYMBOL OF NATIONHOOD HAS

become a metric of influence. The release of Henley’s updates

– including the annual January rankings – routinely ignite

diplomatic flutters, as governments tout incremental gains

and investors eye alternative nationalities. And the business

of citizenship – once a niche curiosity – has matured into a

multibillion-dollar industry.

Malta continues to dominate Europe’s legitimate offerings

through its tightly managed “Citizenship for Exceptional

Services” route, requiring a minimum EUR 750,000

contribution or EUR 600,000 after three years of residence

plus a EUR 700,000 property purchase and a EUR 10,000

donation to an approved NGO.

In the Caribbean, St Lucia, Antigua & Barbuda, Grenada

and Dominica still offer passports through governmentapproved

funds, although the Caribbean CBI governments

BOARDING PASS

PASSPORT SUPREMACY

Singapore's Changi Airport now offers

passport-less biometric clearance

Malta continues to dominate Europe’s

legitimate citizenship offerings

have aligned on a US $200,000 minimum to appease

European regulators.

Cyprus, long the poster child of the Golden-Passport era,

shuttered its scheme towards the end of 2020 and has resisted

restarting it, despite persistent lobbying from the island's

property developers.

ACROSS THE GLOBE, THE APPEAL OF “MOBILITY

assets” shows no sign of fading. High-net-worth individuals,

weary of geopolitical turbulence and erratic visa regimes,

increasingly view citizenship as an element of wealth

management. For some, a second passport represents security

– an exit strategy in uncertain times. For others, it is a

lifestyle choice, offering the ease of settling where business or

climate feels most favourable. The UAE’s long-term residence

visas, Portugal’s evolving Golden Visa, and Greece’s investor

residency scheme continue to lure affluent expatriates seeking

flexibility without renouncing their roots. Meanwhile, a

rising generation of digital nomads – unbound by borders but

tethered to wi-fi – seek temporary residency visas from Bali to

Barbados, trading permanence for mobility.

WHILE GOVERNMENTS MONETISE NATIONALITY,

technology is transforming how we prove identity. The

European Union’s new Digital Travel Credential pilot,

launched this year in Finland and Croatia, allows travellers

to pass through airports using secure digital passports stored

on smartphones.


Singapore's Changi Airport now offers passport-less

biometric clearance – fully rolled out for Singapore residents

for arrivals and departures, and available to departing

foreign visitors, without producing a physical document.

Australia is piloting digital arrival cards and end-to-end

biometric departures. New Zealand is advancing verifiable

digital credentials – groundwork for wider digital travel IDs.

Even Great Britain, still wedded to its navy-blue booklet, has

quietly integrated enhanced biometric features into its latest

e-passports and automated eGates.

THE SHIFT IS AS PSYCHOLOGICAL AS IT IS

procedural. The passport, once the ultimate talisman of

international travel, risks being reduced to a line of code

– a digital credential validated by algorithms rather than

embossed seals. Advocates of border-tech hail this as progress:

faster queues, fewer lost documents, and lower administrative

costs. Yet critics warn of privacy erosion and the danger of

excluding travellers without access to compatible technology. The

digital divide, after all, can be as restrictive as a physical border.

FOR THE WORLD’S LEAST MOBILE CITIZENS, THE

idea of a paper-free future feels remote. Afghans, Syrians and

Iraqis still face labyrinthine visa procedures that make even

neighbouring travel arduous. In these contexts, the passport

remains not just a document but a dream – a representation

of liberty as much as legality. The stark disparity between the

world’s most and least powerful passports highlights a truth


75

BOARDING PASS

PASSPORT SUPREMACY

often overlooked amid the convenience of eGates and biometric

apps: freedom of movement remains the ultimate luxury.

MEANWHILE, THE DEFINITION OF “CITIZENSHIP”

itself is being re-examined. With remote work dissolving

traditional boundaries, belonging is increasingly a matter of

choice rather than birthright. Digital nomad visas in countries

from Costa Rica to Croatia have created a transient class of

semi-citizens – globally dispersed, economically mobile, and

culturally hybrid. Their passports may still bear a national

crest, but their sense of identity is global, not geopolitical.

ECONOMISTS ARGUE THAT THIS FLUIDITY REFLECTS

a broader shift from geography to connectivity. The ability

to live, work and travel across multiple jurisdictions is fast

becoming a measure of privilege akin to private education

or property ownership. Yet unlike wealth, mobility can

be fragile. Political change, climate migration and digital

surveillance all threaten to redraw the map of opportunity.

Even the most coveted passports can lose value overnight, as

sanctions, conflicts or pandemics have shown.

STILL, OPTIMISM ENDURES. THE STEADY EXPANSION

of visa-waiver agreements and the rise of regional blocs –

from the EU’s Schengen Zone to ASEAN’s travel corridors

– suggest a gradual softening of frontiers. If technology can

balance security with inclusivity, the future traveller may one

day glide through airports with nothing more than a verified

digital ID and a destination in mind. Until then, the passport

remains a paradox: a symbol of both freedom and constraint, of

access granted and denied.

ONE'S PASSPORT MAY BE SHRINKING IN PHYSICAL

importance, but it still carries immense psychological weight.

In an age obsessed with digital transparency and seamless

mobility, that little booklet continues to define our place

in the world – proof, perhaps, that even in a borderless

age, the desire to belong endures.


DESTINATION

SPOTLIGHT

LIJIANG

YUNNAN PROVINCE, CHINA

a journey

through yunnan's

living heritage

IN THE HIGHLANDS OF SOUTHWESTERN CHINA, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

VISITS AN ANCIENT CANAL TOWN AT DAWN, ASCENDS TO A MOUNTAINSIDE

TEMPLE, AND FEELS THE ELEMENTAL FORCE OF TIGER LEAPING GORGE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIANXIN WENG

Dayan Old Town

SPOTLIGHT

LIJIANG

MORNING ARRIVES SLOWLY IN

Lijiang. The first light slides over the

rooftops of Dayan Old Town, soft and

silver, catching the curve of every tiled

eave. The cobblestones are still damp

from the night’s rain, their surfaces glistening like lacquered

stone. I wander alone through the narrow lanes shortly after

dawn, when the town belongs not to visitors but to its people. The

shopfronts are still shuttered. A faint smell of wood smoke drifts

between streets. A farmer carries baskets of greens suspended

from a yoke, moving quietly, his boots seemingly slick with dew.

THE SCENE FEELS SUSPENDED SOMEWHERE BETWEEN

dream and memory. Eight centuries of life are folded into this place:

merchants once bartered tea, salt and silk along the Ancient Tea

Horse Road; pilgrims passed through on their way to Tibet, and

poets described the glimmer of the mountains beyond. Even now,

in the early morning, the place retains an unhurried rhythm.

And the river – guided through channels built by Naxi ancestors –

threads through the town in a constant whisper.

Dayan Old Town

BY THE TIME I LEAVE DAYAN, THE SUN HAS BEGUN

to warm the air, lifting a haze from the rooftops. It’s barely a

twenty-minute drive from the Old Town to my base at Banyan

Tree Lijiang, yet it feels like crossing from one world into another

– from the hum of a historic trading hub into a hospitality

landscape of stillness and calm.

THE FIRST GLIMPSE OF JADE DRAGON SNOW MOUNTAIN

stops me in my tracks. Rising to more than 5,500 metres, its

jagged peaks remain veiled in ice even as the plains below

are a verdant green. The mountain dominates everything – a

silver-blue presence that appears in every reflection, every pool

of water, every breath of wind. To the Naxi people, this is no

ordinary summit. It is a sacred guardian: the spirit of a fallen

warrior whose sword became the mountain’s spine. Stories say

his lover became Haba Snow Mountain across the valley, their

eternal separation watched over by the heavens.

FROM ALMOST ANYWHERE IN AND AROUND LIJIANG,

the mountain makes itself known. It hovers at the end of

alleyways, appears between rooflines, and suddenly fills the

horizon when the streets thin and fields open up. It is both a

compass and a backdrop, a reminder that this old trading town

has always existed in dialogue with the high country. Today, that

pull towards the heights is felt not only in the legends told but

also in the paths travellers follow – uphill, towards temples and

monasteries that have watched over the city for centuries.

ONE OF THE MOST COMPELLING OF THESE GUARDIANS

lies to the southwest of town. Wenfeng Temple complex, occupies

a lofty perch on Wenbi Mountain, high above the valley. Built in

the early eighteenth century during the reign of Naxi ruler Mu

Tian, it is one of Lijiang’s five renowned temples and has long

been associated with contemplative practice and retreat.

Dayan Old Town

81

REACHING WENFENG REQUIRES PATIENCE AND AN

uphill drive. The road coils upwards through small hamlets

and terraced fields, then gives way to a path that continues

on foot beneath pines and cypress. Prayer flags appear first

in fragments – a flash of colour in the undergrowth, a frayed

corner knotted to a branch – before suddenly gathering

overhead in dense, fluttering canopies. The higher I travel, the

more the city recedes. Birdsong replaces traffic; the sound of

stillness replaces the murmur of human voices.

At the temple itself, the air feels cooler, edged with incense

and resin. The complex unfolds across the slope in a series of

courtyards and halls, their eaves painted in vermilion and

teal, their pillars darkened by time and weather. A few elderly

devotees hover around but otherwise the place is largely

empty, except for a young monk in maroon robes sweeping

fallen needles into neat piles. The atmosphere is devout but

unhurried, as if the mountain has taught everyone here to move

at the pace of breath.

Above the main buildings, a path continues further, climbing

towards a cave where, for generations, monks have undertaken

prolonged meditation retreats, disappearing from ordinary

life for years at a time. The entrance is modest, almost hidden

among rock and scrub, yet the idea of that sustained solitude – of

choosing to sit in stillness while the world reshapes itself below –

is profoundly affecting. It hints at a relationship with landscape

that is not merely scenic but spiritual: the mountain is not

something to be conquered, but to be listened to.

From a vantage point near the upper shrine, Lijiang is

reduced to the suggestion of a grid, a shimmer of rooftops

on the plain. Jade Dragon Snow Mountain rises beyond,


SPOTLIGHT

LIJIANG

Looking towards Lijiang from

Wenfeng Temple Complex

Wenfeng Temple Complex

its serrated spine bright against the sky. Even on a clear day,

veils of cloud cling to its ridges, swirling and reforming like

a slow exhale. Standing here, looking from the temple across

to the snow line, it becomes easier to understand how

religion, myth, and geography are knitted together in

hese highlands.

BACK IN THE CITY, LIFE RESUMES AT A GENTLER

altitude. Dayan Old Town, now a UNESCO-listed site,

retains its lattice of lanes, bridges, and canals, the water

still fed by springs that originate in the foothills of Jade

Dragon and collect at Black Dragon Pool before threading

through the town. Two-storey timber houses lean towards

one another across the narrow alleys, their upper floors

studded with carved windows and flower boxes. Shops open

on the ground level – some selling local textiles and silver,

others tea and dried mushrooms, and the ubiquitous

"souvenirs". Meanwhile upstairs balconies catch the

afternoon light.

THOUGH TOURISM IS NOW FIRMLY PART OF THE

narrative here, and at times, the town can feel a little like Disneyland,

parts of Dayan still feel tethered to older rhythms, and well away

from the busiest thoroughfares, women in rinse vegetables in the

shallows of the canals. A man repairs a wooden stool outside his

front door, pausing occasionally to greet neighbours. At some times

of the day, the patter of visitors’ footsteps join the soundscape.

Indeed, they sometimes even drown it. But the town remains, at

heart, an inhabited place, rather than a preserved stage set. So I

pick the timing of my visits carefully.


83

LIJIANG HAS ALWAYS BEEN A NODE RATHER THAN AN

endpoint – a halfway house on trading routes that once

linked Yunnan with Tibet and beyond. That role continues

today, albeit in different form. For contemporary travellers,

the city serves as a graceful threshold into northwestern

Yunnan, a base from which the landscape fans out towards

snow mountains, deep river gorges, and, increasingly,

vineyards that cling improbably to high-altitude slopes.

HEADING NORTH AND WEST OUT OF TOWN, THE ROAD

eventually drops into the valley of the Jinsha River, here

a powerful, churning artery carving its way between mountains.

Villages appear on terraces above the water; fields of maize

and buckwheat patchwork the gentler inclines. Further on, the

land rises again towards Shangri-La and the approach to the

upper Mekong. The journey, whether taken in a single long push

or broken over several days, makes tangible the huge vertical

range of Yunnan – from temperate basins to alpine edges in a

matter of hours.

SOMEWHERE ALONG THIS ROUTE, AS THE AIR GROWS

thinner and the light sharper, vines begin to appear. This high

corner of Yunnan has, over the past two decades, become one of

China’s most intriguing wine frontiers. Vineyards are planted

between roughly 1,900 and 2,600 metres above sea level, often

on vertiginous slopes that tumble directly towards the Mekong

and Jinsha river valleys. The days can be luminous and warm,

the nights brisk, creating large diurnal swings that help grapes

retain freshness while achieving ripeness.

CABERNET SAUVIGNON AND MERLOT ARE THE

dominant international varieties here, translated into a register

that feels distinctly local. Steep terraces, poor soils, and small

plots worked largely by hand keep yields low. Some estates

experiment with clay amphorae or concrete for ageing, subtly

echoing the region’s long relationship with earthenware

vessels for storing grain and fermenting other foods. Others

favour oak, but even then the best wines resist heaviness,

favouring precision over power.

SPOTLIGHT

LIJIANG

THE ROOTS OF VITICULTURE IN YUNNAN GO BACK

further than many imagine. In the remote village of Cizhong,

near the upper reaches of the Lancang (Mekong) River,

Catholic missionaries planted vines in the nineteenth century,

introducing European grape varieties that later adapted

to the highland climate. A local hybrid sometimes known

as Rose Honey, thought to have disappeared from Europe

after the phylloxera epidemic, survived here, tucked away

in churchyards and family plots. The story is emblematic

of Yunnan itself: outward-looking yet sheltered, shaped by

outside influences but resolutely its own.

Tiger Leaping Gorge

Tiger Leaping Gorge

ABOUT AN HOUR’S DRIVE NORTH OF LIJIANG, THE

land tightens into a narrower valley carved by the Jinsha River,

its colour shifting from slate to deep copper as it gathers force.

Terraces fall away sharply on either side of the road; maize fields

cling to improbable angles; cliffs rear upwards in sudden,

sheer exposures of rock. With every bend, the landscape grows

more dramatic – as if the mountains are pulling inward, drawing

us towards their core.

TIGER LEAPING GORGE REVEALS ITSELF GRADUALLY

rather than all at once. One moment the river is merely swift;

the next it is a churning, muscular torrent trapped between

near-vertical walls of stone. At its narrowest point, where

legend says that a hunted tiger once escaped by leaping from

bank to bank, the Jinsha compresses into a roaring channel

that seems almost too small to contain its power. Standing at a

viewing point, the sound below is immense. Not a single roar,

but a layered, continuous thunder that seems to rise from the

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

85

earth itself. Indeed here, high in the mountains of northwestern

Yunnan, near the upper reaches of the Yangtze, the gorge feels

primordial. Snow peaks loom overhead, their crowns vanishing

intermittently behind shifting veils of cloud. Ravens circle on

thermal currents rising from the cliffs. Below, the river twists

through boulder fields and foaming rapids, its surface torn into

white seams of energy. The scale is overwhelming in a way that

photographs can never quite convey; it is the combination of

verticality, velocity, and proximity that captures the senses.

DEPENDING ON THE WEATHER, TIGER LEAPING

Gorge can look entirely different from one hour to the next. In

sunshine, the water gleams bronze and jade, its swirling

eddies bright against the dark canyon walls. In the wet,

mist drapes itself across the summits and drifts down into

the gorge, softening the edges until cliffs and clouds blur

into one shifting mass. The air grows cooler and wilder;

droplets bead on clothing; and the roar below becomes even

more resonant, amplified by the walls of stone. It feels like

walking through the threshold of an ancient myth – a place

where stories still cling to the slopes.

SITTING IN THE CAR AFTERWARDS, EARS STILL

ringing faintly from the sheer volume of the river, there is a

tangible shift in mood. The gorge’s raw force lingers in the body,

like an aftershock. The serenity of Lijiang feels worlds away,

though it lies just over an hour away. Yet the contrast is part of

the region’s allure: within a single day, travellers can move from

temple quietude to urban hum to the untamed ferocity of one of

Asia’s great river canyons. Tiger Leaping Gorge is not simply a

scenic stop; it is a reminder of the elemental forces that shape

Yunnan – its mountains, its waters, its deep, restless geology –

and of how resilient life must be to take hold here at all.

ON MY FINAL MORNING, I RETURN ONCE MORE TO

Dayan Old Town. The streets are a little busier now, but I find a

quiet corner beside one of the canals and watch the reflection of

the rooftops ripple in the water. I think of the mountain watching

from afar, the gorge’s roar, the fields between them, and of

Banyan Tree Lijiang – my sanctuary during this trip – sitting

calmly in their shadow, like a watchful heartbeat at rest.

WHAT LINGERS AT THE END OF MY TIME IN LIJIANG

is not any single view, experience, or taste, but the coherence of it

all, and the way that the destination gathers together the life and

soul of Yunnan province – its myths, its silences, its mountain air –

and channels them into a journey that feels at once outer

and inner, rooted in place yet quietly transformative, long

after the last temple bell has faded from earshot.


SPOTLIGHT

LIJIANG

S TAY

BANYAN TREE LIJIANG

YUERONG ROAD, SHUHE, GUCHENG DISTRICT

SET ON A BROAD PLAIN BENEATH THE FLANKS OF JADE

Dragon Snow Mountain, around twenty minutes’ drive from

Dayan Old Town, Banyan Tree Lijiang is a serene hideaway that draws deeply

on the culture, craftsmanship, and landscapes of northern Yunnan. Lowslung

roofs, carved wooden beams, and stone paths echo the architecture

of the Naxi people, while tranquil water features and quiet gardens create a

soothing rhythm that feels aligned with Mother Nature.

A GRACEFUL GATEWAY LEADS INTO THE RESORT’S CENTRAL COURTYARD,

where lotus ponds ripple under the breeze and a striking pagoda provides

a focal point framed perfectly against the distant mountains. Villas unfold

discreetly along tree-lined walkways, each one positioned to offer privacy

and a sense of inward calm. Interiors are refined but understated, with warm

woods, lattice panels, deep soaking tubs, and a muted palette chosen to

reflect the surrounding earth and sky. Many villas feature private gardens

or jacuzzi courtyards that face the mountain directly, allowing mornings to

begin in contemplative quiet with the sound of flowing water just beyond

the walls. In little time at all, The Cultured Traveller finds its pace slowing to

match the softness of the setting.

DINING IS ROOTED IN LOCAL PROVENANCE AND LONGSTANDING culinary

traditions. The resort’s two main restaurants look towards the gardens and

distant peaks, their expansive windows allowing the landscape to remain

an integral part of the meal. Seasonal menus highlight Yunnan’s abundance

– wild mushrooms, heritage vegetables, river fish, and highland herbs –

while the clay-pot dishes, seared at intense heat, draw on generations-old

techniques. A signature favourite is the sizzling pan-fried beef with local

mushrooms and Sichuan peppercorns, served straight from an ultra-hot clay

pot and accompanied beautifully by small-batch Yunnan wines.

THE BANYAN TREE SPA CONTINUES THE BRAND’S DEVOTION TO ASIAN

wellness philosophies, blending Chinese Five Elements principles with gentle

Naxi and Tibetan influences in therapies that emphasise grounding, clarity,

and the slow unfurling of tension.

EXPLORATION FROM THE PROPERTY IS EFFORTLESS AND ENRICHING.

Guests can strolll through the resort’s organic gardens, and visit a number

of ancient towns and local markets brimming with produce from the

surrounding plains. Black Dragon Pool and its arched bridges lie a short

drive away, while further afield, the dramatic geography of Tiger Leaping

Gorge rewards those seeking a deeper encounter with the region’s

elemental terrain.

BANYAN TREE LIJIANG DOES NOT IMPOSE ITSELF ON THE LANDSCAPE;

rather, it draws strength from it. Cradled between fields, waterways, and

the immense presence of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, the resort offers

a sanctuary defined not by formality but by atmosphere – a place where

clarity gathers, noise dissolves, and the timeless rhythms of Yunnan reveal

themselves. For travellers seeking beauty wrapped in quietude, it offers a

profound and lasting sense of place. www.banyantree.com/china/lijiang

88

AWAKEN

YOUR

SENSES

Retreat to places of extraordinary beauty where connecting with community and

nature offers a welcome solace for the soul. Experience the transformative power of

travel as it awakens and inspires.

The World Beckons.

China • Indonesia • Japan • Malaysia • Maldives • Mexico • Morocco • Qatar • Saudi Arabia •

South Korea • Thailand • United Arab Emirates • Vietnam

banyantree.com

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART IN WARSAW

WARSAW, POLAND

warsaw's new

museum of

modern light

SHOWN AROUND WARSAW’S NEW MUSEUM OF MODERN ART

BY ITS DIRECTOR AND CURATOR, JOANNA MYTKOWSKA, THE

CULTURED TRAVELLER EXPLORES HOW THOMAS PHIFER’S

LUMINOUS, QUIETLY MONUMENTAL DESIGN HAS RESHAPED

THE CAPITAL’S CULTURAL SKYLINE, AND SIGNALLED A NEW

CHAPTER IN POLAND’S ARCHITECTURAL EVOLUTION

ART

CULTURE

WARSAW’S ARTISTIC SPIRIT HAS

long thrived on resilience. Scarred, rebuilt

and perpetually self-renewing, the Polish

capital has transformed its turbulent

history into a potent creative force. From post-war modernists

who reconstructed the city’s visual identity from rubble, to the

experimental avant-garde movements that challenged state

orthodoxy in the 1970s and ’80s, art in Warsaw has always

been an act of endurance and imagination. Today, the city’s

cultural landscape mirrors that legacy: independent galleries

line revitalised tenements in Praga; muralists reclaim concrete

facades; and institutions such as Zachęta and Ujazdowski Castle

anchor a thriving, outward-looking art scene. This spirit of

reinvention reaches its zenith on Parade Square, where a new

architectural landmark now redefines the dialogue between

Poland’s modernity and its past.

IN THE HEART OF WARSAW’S EVOLVING CULTURAL

core - directly opposite the towering presence of the Palace of

Culture and Science, but determinedly its own constellation –

the Museum of Modern Art (Muzeum Sztuki Nowoczesnej, or

MSN) opened its doors in late 2024 as an edifice of clarity, light,

and restraint. It arrived not as an overpowering icon, but as a

poised counterpart to the city’s architectural palimpsest.

ART CULTURE


ON A SUNNY MONDAY MORNING WHEN NO PUBLIC

footfall disturbs its halls, The Cultured Traveller team is led

through this newest of buildings by Joanna Mytkowska, the

museum’s longtime director and curator. Our visit is discreet

and personally guided; this exclusive passage through the

spaces becoming part of the building’s own unfolding narrative.

THOMAS PHIFER, THE NEW YORK–BASED

architect known for his quietly exacting minimalism (from

the Corning Museum of Glass extension to the Glenstone

Museum pavilion), has deftly crafted in Warsaw a statement

that is at once restrained yet expressive. His design seeks

equilibrium: poised between monumentality and transparency,

the solidity of structure and the dematerialising potential of

natural light. The museum presents itself as two monolithic,

softly sculpted blocks of white concrete and glass, the façades

relieved by slender vertical light slits and broad areas of

generous glazing. Its mass is disciplined and its form is calm,

yet it commands attention by virtue of its thoughtful presence

in a dense urban frame.

FROM THE EXTERIOR, THE BUILDING’S GEOMETRY

reads with clarity: a raised base lifts the main gallery

volumes, opening up a generous gallery forecourt that allows

the museum to breathe within the city. Phifer’s composition

dialogues subtly with Warsaw’s rigid, north–south axis

and with the weighty form of the Palace across the way,

turning the incendiary architectural tension of the Sovietera

landmark into a conversation rather than confrontation.

Each façade is calibrated for shifting sunlight, emphasising

vertical rhythms, and ensuring that interior light quality

remains central to the experience.

WITHIN THIS PRECISE ENVELOPE, THE INTERIOR

unfolds as a sequence of moments. One enters into a generous

yet somewhat understated lobby, whose rational clarity evokes a

quiet threshold: white cement walls and floors in pale terrazzo,

and soaring voids overhead. A sculptural staircase ascends

centrally, its cantilevered form both lyrical and controlled,

creating a fleeting dialogue between ascent and pause. From

here, a system of cross-axes allows movement in multiple

directions – galleries extend in wings to the north and south,

while a central volume houses special exhibits.

BETWEEN THE PRINCIPAL EXHIBITION SPACES,

a series of timber-lined contemplation rooms offer moments

of pause and reflection. These serene, chapel-like chambers

are bathed in natural light and framed by large windows

that open views onto the surrounding cityscape. Their

warmth, material tactility and visual quietness contrast

beautifully with the museum’s stone and concrete core,

grounding the visitor in calm after each gallery sequence.

Both spatially and emotionally, these rooms function as

breathing spaces - architectural punctuation marks within

Phifer’s composition - and demonstrate a deeply human

understanding of how art and contemplation coexist.

LIGHT IS THE MUSEUM’S CONSTANT COMPANION.

Skylit atria punctuate the ceiling plane, flooding the central

spaces with soft daylight that is filtered and directed

through coffered light wells and spectral screens. In the

main galleries, large expanses of glazing open views

outward, framing the city in carefully composed perspectival

vistas. Yet even in more intimate chambers, recessed slits

and diffusing clerestories allow illumination to remain


93

ART CULTURE


indirect and even, preserving the primacy of the artworks

on display. The effect is one of dematerialisation: the walls

recede, the building becomes a vessel for art and light rather

than an overpowering object in itself.

CIRCULATION HERE IS DELIBERATE. THE VISITOR

is drawn upward and inward, guided by sightlines and

thresholds more than signage. In quieter moments, one

senses the architect’s insistence on restraint: no grand

theatrical gestures, but rather a choreography of subtle

transitions, shifting light, and spatial pause. The interior

is timeless; it does not dazzle, but instead offers a refined

clarity that supports contemplation.

CULTURALLY, THE NEW MSN STAKES A BOLD CLAIM.

For decades, the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw has

been an institution of both acclaim and contradiction –

shaped by Poland’s shifting politics, its art history, and the

evolving stakes of post-Communist identity. Under Joanna

Mytkowska’s leadership from 2007 onward, the museum

has become a locus for both local avant-gardism and global

conversations. This new building enhances that mission:

94

MUSUM

OF MODERN ART

IN WARSAW

THE

21.11.2025

03.05.2026

ARTMUSEUM.PL

EXHIBITION

WOMAN

QUESTION 1550–2025

THE WOMAN

QUESTION

1550–2025

THE MUSEUM IS CO-RUN BY

STRATEGIC PARTNER OF THE MUSEUM

STRATEGIC PARTNER OF THE MUSEUM

PATRON OF THE MUSEUM AND COLLECTION

MUSEUM PARTNERS

EDUCATION PARTNER

LEGAL PARTNER

EXHIBITION PARTNER

MEDIA PARTNERS

it is a civic gesture as much as a showcase, a home for

national narrative and international resonance.

ITS PROGRAMMING STRATEGY IS DELIBERATELY

expansive. Rooms are reserved for rotating exhibitions of

contemporary and modern international art, Polish historical

surveys and commissions, and an artist-in-residence

programme. The building’s flexibility in gallery size and

daylight control enables the museum to host

BEYOND ITS INTERNAL PROGRAMME, THE MUSEUM

positions itself as a new fulcrum of Warsaw’s cultural

reorientation. Adjacent to TR Warszawa and within walking

distance of key cultural clusters, it serves as an anchor for a

new “creative axis” in the city – one that leans into public life,

dialogues with urban memory, and asserts a confident futurefacing

identity. In a city that has long wrestled with the scars of

twentieth-century rupture, the new MSN asserts that modernity

is not a foreign import but a living, evolving tradition.


ART CULTURE


ARCHITECTURALLY AND SYMBOLICALLY, THE

building also reframes Warsaw’s relationship to light,

openness and presence. Across seasons, the museum’s façades

morph subtly in response to shifting solar geometry; the

muted surface of concrete catches indirect glows in early dawn

and dusk, and in midday clarity the glass walls vanish into

the city beyond. From the forecourt, one senses a threshold:

the building is both grounded and aspirational, monumental

without bravura.

WHEN THE THE CULTURED TRAVELLER LEAVES,

the experience lingers. It is not the arresting gesture of a

flamboyant statement piece, but the slow accumulation of

material precision, spatial calm, and light-inflected sequences

that enamour. In such measured and detailed restraint,

Phifer has given Warsaw not just a museum, but a new

lens on modernity itself. The building speaks with dignity –

dignity without dominance – and the city now

listens differently.

IN ITS QUIET GRANDEUR, THE NEW MUSEUM OF

Modern Art in Warsaw commands attention not by competing

with its monumental neighbour, but by redefining how a modern

institution can be part of a city’s soul. It is a work of architecture

that trusts simplicity, that understands the magnitudes of space

and light, and that positions art at its core. For Warsaw,

it is a cultural milestone. For visitors, it is a place of

modern light. https://artmuseum.pl/en


97

S TAY

NOBU HOTEL WARSAW

UL. WILCZA 73, WARSAW 00-670

NOBU HOTEL WARSAW BRINGS A COSMOPOLITAN

polish to the city’s hotel scene, blending contemporary

Japanese restraint with the character of early 20th-century Warsaw. The

property occupies two distinct yet harmoniously connected buildings – a

restored Art Deco structure and a striking modern wing composed of glass,

wood and stone, wrapped in greenery that softens its sharp architectural

lines. This juxtaposition of old and new creates a compelling sense of place,

setting the tone for a stay defined by design, culture, and an understated

form of urban luxury.

SET IN THE CITY'S FASHIONABLE CENTRAL DISTRICT, KNOWN FOR ITS

handsome historic facades, the hotel is just a 15-minute level walk from The

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw, making it an ideal base for culturally

curious travellers. Inside, the visual narrative continues with curated

works by contemporary Polish artists from the ASOM Collection, which

subtly complement Nobu’s signature aesthetic of clean lines, tactile

materials and calming palettes. The lobby’s sweeping timber staircase

– an architectural centrepiece – hints at the craftsmanship found

throughout the property, while floor-to-ceiling glazing in the modern wing

pulls the city skyline directly into the guest experience.

Upstairs, 116 rooms and suites, range from Art Deco-inflected classics

to ultra-modern spaces distinguished by raw concrete, warm timber and

generous light. Thoughtful touches include Japanese tea sets, Natura

Bissé amenities and, in higher categories, stylish gramophones with vinyl

collections – these small details add personality and charm. Guests also

have access to a top-floor wellness area with a sauna, steam room, 24-

hour gym and spa suite overlooking the city.

THE HOTEL'S CULINARY CREDENTIALS ARE, NATURALLY, IMPECCABLE.

A Nobu Restaurant sits at the heart of the hotel, serving Matsuhisa’s

world-renowned dishes – from Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalapeño to his

iconic Black Cod Miso – alongside bold cocktails and a compelling sake

list. A separate sake bar and Warsaw’s respected Jassmine live music

club, located in the basement, further anchor the hotel as one of the

capital’s most atmospheric social hubs.

STYLISH, WELL-SITUATED AND QUIETLY CONFIDENT, NOBU HOTEL

WARSAW offers a refined, design-forward stay within easy reach of many

of the city’s contemporary cultural landmarks.

www.nobuhotels.com/warsaw

MUSIC

CULTURE

YURY

REVICH

THE VIRTUOSO WHO

PLAYS BEYOND SOUND

IN BETWEEN CONCERTS AND

CONTINENTS, THE CULTURED

TRAVELLER CATCHES-UP WITH

GENRE-DEFYING VIOLINIST

YURY REVICH, WHOSE DYNAMIC

CAREER BLENDS VIRTUOSITY

WITH VISUAL ART, HUMANITARIAN

WORK, AND A RELENTLESS DRIVE

TO REIMAGINE WHAT CLASSICAL

PERFORMANCE CAN BE

IMAGE: ASSOCIATION QUATRE COLOURS

A

N ARTIST OF EXTRAORDINARY

sensitivity and imaginative range,

Yury Revich is one of the most

compelling violinists of his generation.

Born in Moscow in 1991 into a family

of musicians, he began playing the violin at the age of

five and gave his debut concert just three years later.

Today based in Vienna and performing internationally,

Revich is known not only for his virtuosic skill but for his

bold, cross-disciplinary approach to classical music.

REVICH PLAYS THE 1709 “PRINCESS AURORA”

Stradivarius, an instrument of exquisite tone, on

generous loan from the Goh Family Foundation. Yet it is

not merely the violin’s history that resonates in concert

– it is the emotional richness Revich draws from it,

shifting effortlessly from precision to abandon, intimacy

to grandeur.

NAMED YOUNG ARTIST OF THE YEAR BY THE

International Classical Music Awards in 2015 and

awarded the ECHO Klassik Newcomer of the Year in

2016, Revich has performed on many of the world’s most

prestigious stages, from Carnegie Hall to La Scala.

His collaborations extend beyond the classical world,

blending music with film, fashion, photography, and

scent to create multisensory performances that feel

somewhat avant-garde yet still deeply human.

EQUALLY COMMITTED TO SOCIAL IMPACT,

Revich is an honorary representative for UNICEF

Austria and a passionate advocate for using music

as a bridge between cultures. Whether curating his

Festival Nights series in Vienna or performing in

support of humanitarian causes, he continues to

redefine what it means to be an artist today.

yuryrevich.com


MUSIC CULTURE

INTERVIEW

You began playing the violin at the age of five –

what are your earliest memories of holding the

instrument in your hands?

My great-grandfather, grandfather, and father are all

violinists. My first teacher was my grandfather, and

later my father, who is still my most honest mentor

today. I gave my first concert when I was five, and I

remember it being pure fun. I also play piano, and

I’ve always been drawn to other art forms, especially

painting, which I studied as well. Even as a child, I

knew I needed to be an artist – it was my natural way

to express myself.

Growing up in Moscow and later establishing your base in

Vienna, how did those cities shape your musical identity?

Moscow is intense, very competitive, but incredibly

inspiring and focused. Vienna is the opposite –

more relaxed, reflective, and full of quiet beauty.

Combining both energies feels like the perfect

balance for me.

my first teacher was

my grandfather,

and later my father,

who is still my most

honest mentor today

Was there a defining childhood moment when you

realised music would become your life’s path rather

than a passing passion?

Yes, at the age of eleven, after my debut performing

Paganini’s Violin Concerto No. 2. That moment

made me realise I wanted to dedicate my life to

this profession.

How did being named Young Artist of the Year by the

International Classical Music Awards in 2015, and winning

the ECHO Klassik Newcomer of the Year in 2016, affect

your outlook?

I’m always deeply grateful for such recognition. But

my main focus remains creating art – expressing

myself, exploring new paths, rediscovering traditions,

and connecting with people through music. If my

work resonates and gets recognised, I’m thankful.

You perform on a 1709 Stradivarius violin loaned by the

Goh Family Foundation – what makes the instrument

uniquely yours?

I played this violin for ten years, and it was an

extraordinary experience. A Stradivarius is full of

mystery – like playing a living piece of art, or like

driving a finely tuned car that responds to your every

gesture. The violin listens to and breathes with me.

What did your debut at Carnegie Hall in New York at

the age of eighteen teach you about performing on a

global stage?

Wherever I perform – whether it’s for ten people or

ten thousand – I always give 200%. As an artist, my

goal is to create something equally authentic and

emotional every time.


101


my main focus remains

creating art – expressing

myself, exploring new

paths, rediscovering

traditions, and connecting

with people through music

MUSIC CULTURE

INTERVIEW

As a composer and soloist, how do you balance the

demands of performance with the creative freedom of

writing your own music?

At some point, I decided to compose my own music.

When performing others’ works, I’m an interpreter –

a translator of their ideas. But when I compose and

perform my own pieces, I speak in my own language,

expressing my personal vision and emotions.

Playing Mozart, for example, is a beautiful act of

interpretation, but it’s still not my original voice. My

own compositions allow me to share my inner world

without translation.

You are an honorary representative for UNICEF Austria

— how do you use your platform to amplify the voices of

children through music and art?

I use my artistic voice to raise awareness. Through

my DREAMLAND project, we help UNICEF build

schools, deliver emergency kits, and support children

in need. Music is not just culture – it’s neuroscience,

diplomacy, and connection. I’m also co-chairing a

cultural diplomacy project at the European

Parliament this November, exploring music as a

form of soft power for peace and dialogue.Science

shows that music is the second most powerful sense

for humans – its impact on mental health and

wellbeing has been proven.

that constantly inspire one another. That’s why I

create interdisciplinary projects involving visual art,

live performance, dance, digital art, and theatre. It's a

multisensory world of expression.

When touring and performing widely, how do you choose

the next place to record or premiere new work?

This depends on logistics and my intuition.

You’ve talked about music as a vehicle for social change.

What role can art play in our troubled world today?

Music is art. Art connects people. It promotes

dialogue instead of conflict. Through neuroscience

and cultural diplomacy, we can use art as a tool for

empathy, understanding, and unity.

From cross-genre collaborations to classical concertos,

what draws you beyond the traditional violin repertoire?

There’s no such thing as a “bad genre”. In any genre,

one can find interesting, good, inspiring or impactful

music. Art, of course, is entirely subjective, and this

is what makes it human. I’m drawn to this diversity

of expression.

Your international concert series – from Friday Nights

with Yury Revich to Festival Nights – combine music with

visual arts. What inspired this multidisciplinary format?

I’ve always felt like a Renaissance man! I don’t believe

an artist should be confined to one box. Curiosity

drives me. Art and music are universal languages

IMAGES: MATTIA BALDI


103

MUSIC CULTURE

INTERVIEW

As one of the few violinists equally at home in classical

halls and experimental art spaces, how do you define your

performance identity?

Violinist. Composer. Interdisciplinary creator. More

simply: an artist.

You lead an archive of recordings and projects; how do

you decide which future endeavour will carry your name

forward?

I try not to over-plan or strategize. Of course, it’s

important. But I prefer to stay focused on creating,

exploring, and following inspiration. The rest follows

naturally.

You have a family heritage of violin-playing. Did you ever

feel the weight of tradition, or the freedom to transform it?

My parents have always supported my ideas and artistic

visions. My mother comes to nearly all of my concerts

in Vienna and sometimes abroad. I truly value her

feedback and her love for the music I create.

When you arrive in a new city for a concert, where do you

look first?

I look at people – and at architecture. Humanity and

art always come first for me.

After concerts and creative collaborations, where do you

travel to unwind – which place allows you to truly relax?

Anywhere near water, the sea, or ocean. I can sit on

a quiet beach for hours, meditate, and recharge. I

don’t enjoy crowded places; I need peace and nature

to restore the energy I give through my art.

Do you have a favourite hotel somewhere in the world,

and what makes it a memorable haven for you?

Oh, there are several. But for me, a good hotel

must have a few essentials, which include plenty of

natural light; simple air conditioning (I can’t abide

complicated controllers); and Bluetooth speakers,

since I prefer to listen to music rather than watch

TV. Music helps me focus and relax. And as someone

who suffers from celiac disease, I always appreciate

hotels that offer gluten-free options.

IMAGE: PAUL WINSTONE

What has been your proudest non-musical achievement in

recent years – philanthropic work, curating, or cultivating

new platforms?

There are so many projects I’ve been involved with.

So, I wouldn’t say “proud”. I’d say "inspired". Each

project has taught me something and given me energy

to continue.

In moments of quiet before a performance, what centres

you creatively and emotionally?

Breathing. Focusing. And remembering the joy and

privilege of being able to create art.

With a career spanning continents, what still moves you

most when the applause fades and the lights go out?

I like to talk with a few people after the concert – to feel

that human connection, and hear their impressions.

Then, honestly, I just enjoy going to sleep.

Looking ahead, are there still places or stories you feel

drawn to capture – through your violin, your compositions,

or your next artistic venture?

Always. Inspiration is endless, although the day still

only has 24 hours! I’ve just recorded my new concept

album, PEACE, to be released before the end of

2025. It includes my own poems, original music,

and works by both living composers and old masters

from around the world – Austria, Syria, Ukraine,

the USA, France, Venezuela and beyond – with a

focus on female composers. The idea is to show that

beauty, melody, and artistic belief in peace

are universal, no matter where the composer

comes from.

IMAGE: URSULA VAVRIK


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FASHION

CULTURE

THE QUIET FASHION REVOLUTIONARY

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER CHRONICLES THE LIFE OF ONE OF FASHION’S

GREATEST CREATORS – A MAN WHOSE PRECISION, POISE AND PARED-DOWN

ELEGANCE TRANSFORMED TAILORING, INFLUENCED CINEMA AND RED-

CARPET STYLE, AND BUILT A GLOBAL EMPIRE ROOTED IN UNDERSTATEMENT,

DISCIPLINE AND THE QUIET CONFIDENCE OF IMPECCABLE TASTE


Young Armani

FASHION CULTURE

GIORGIO ARMANI

Armani and Sergio Galeotti

WHEN GIORGIO ARMANI

died in Milan on 4

September 2025, aged

ninety-one, the tributes

described not a showman

but a shaper. He made modernity feel calm. Born

in Piacenza on 11 July 1934, he began studying

medicine in Milan before deciding that fabric and light

interested him more than scalpels and sutures.

The high-end Italian department store chain, La

Rinascente gave Armani a training ground: windows

to dress, collections to buy, customers to observe.

And in the mid-1960s, at Nino Cerruti’s pioneering

men’s ready-to-wear clothing line, Hitman, Armani

learned industry mechanics and refined him instinct

for proportion that would become something of his

fashion handwriting.

IN 1975, ARMANI FOUNDED THE COMPANY

with his partner, Sergio Galeotti. Their proposition

sounded almost radical for the era: clothes that

followed the body rather than bossed it around. He

relaxed jackets, reduced padding, removed weight

where possible, and allowed cloth to move. The effect

was quietly subversive. Men who had lived inside

rigid tailoring suddenly discovered posture without

punishment. Editors noticed; buyers followed;

Milan’s reputation grew. Armani’s message never

required exclamation marks ‒ it was persuasive

because it was measured.

REDEFINING MASCULINITY AND POWER

The 1980s could have been a decade of armour, yet

Armani offered something more nuanced. His tailoring

for men suggested authority without swagger.

Shoulders softened, lapels lengthened, and trousers

hung from the hips with a natural line. When the

movie American Gigolo hit screens in 1980, Richard

Gere wore the look with breezy assurance, and the

image flew around the world. Here was masculinity

that didn’t rely on bluster; it relied on fit.

Armani in Milan, 1979

ARMANI THEN REWROTE THE RULES FOR

women. As careers accelerated and boardrooms

diversified, Armani supplied a uniform that balanced

confidence and ease. Jackets skimmed rather than

squeezed; trousers offered movement; silk blouses

tempered structure. The term “power dressing” stuck,

but his aim was more subtle: to express competence

without costume. Tone-on-tone ensembles in stone,

smoke, sand and midnight blue signalled composure.

Executives could enter a meeting knowing their

clothes wouldn’t do the talking for them; they would

simply remove any interference.


109

Armani with Sophia Loren

Richard Gere dressed in Armani for

the 1980 film, American Gigolo

Armani with Richard Gere

110

FASHION CULTURE

GIORGIO ARMANI

THE EMPIRE EXPANDS

Success brought scale, and Armani built with

discipline. Emporio Armani launched in 1981, bringing

an energetic, youthful line that could sit alongside

the main collection without undermining it. Denim

arrived under Armani Jeans; accessories, eyewear and

timepieces broadened the vocabulary; fragrance provided

olfactory punctuation marks: Armani Eau Pour Homme

in 1984, and later Acqua di Giò in 1996. Both were

scents that mirrored his sensibility ‒ clean, lasting, and

articulate. And his boutiques around the world treated

retail as architecture, not theatre, with light calibrated

like a lens and circulation plotted like a plan.

THROUGH THE 1990S, WHEN LABELS FLIRTED

with flamboyance, Armani chose constancy.

Headquarters expanded in Milan, anchored by the

Teatro Armani, a venue that made his devotion to

spatial clarity public. He proved that a luxury brand

could grow across categories while maintaining an

unbroken line of intent. The trick was coherence:

each extension felt inevitable because the underlying

principles never wobbled.

A LIFESTYLE ARCHITECT

By 2000, Armani was ready to apply his philosophy to

living spaces. Armani/Casa translated his approach

into rooms of lacquered surfaces, tactile textiles, low

silhouettes and considered lighting. The palette soothed

rather than shouted, and furniture sat with the poise of

a well-cut jacket. Restaurants, cafés and even tableware

followed, each aligned with the same grammar.

THE ARMANI HOTELS IN DUBAI (2010) AND

Milan (2011) turned that grammar into immersive

hospitality. Corridors curved like lapels; suites

combined symmetry with comfort; public areas

exhaled serenity. Even the way a tray was set

felt edited. Guests stepped into an environment

where every decision supported calm. If some

luxury hotels promise spectacle, Armani’s offered

composure ‒ useful after an overnight flight and a

schedule full of appointments. It was lifestyle not as

excess, but as order.

Armani with Grace Jones

RED CARPET REVOLUTION

Cinema loved Armani because cameras do. He

completely understood that lenses exaggerate and

flashbulbs can be unforgiving, and so he designed to

flatter under scrutiny. After American Gigolo made

his name a plot point in the collective imagination,

Armani’s creations became a constant on film sets and

red carpets.


111

FASHION CULTURE

GIORGIO ARMANI

Left: Amy Winehouse in

Armani Privé performing

at the Brit Awards

Zendaya in Armani Privé at the Oscars

Nicole Kidman in Armani Privé at the Oscars

THROUGHOUT THE 1990S AND 2000S, HIS

gowns and tuxedos delivered presence without noise.

Column dresses traced the figure and moved like

water. Bias-cut silks flowed with the cadence of

a long sentence. Tuxedos balanced geometry and

fluidity so neatly that actors swore they stood taller.

Stars kept returning to him because the clothes told

the right story: that intelligence and elegance can

share the same frame. If others chased headlines

with pyrotechnics, Armani quietly owned the

photograph by perfecting lines.

THE ETERNAL MINIMALIST

Minimalism, in Armani’s hands, was never a fad; it

was an ethic. The apparently simple jacket required

engineering worthy of a bridge. The clean dress

concealed darts and seams placed with watchmaker

accuracy. He joked, with a smile that suggested both

amusement and pride, that it takes great effort to

appear effortless.

Independence enabled that ethic. While many

peers embraced conglomerates, Armani kept

ownership, enabling long-term decisions and

protecting standards.

Right: Lady Gaga in Armani

Privé at the SAG Awards

ARMANI PRIVÉ, INTRODUCED IN 2005,

distilled the couture idea into refined shapes with

luminosity rather than bling. Meanwhile, Emporio

evolved with athletic touches and technical fabrics

without losing clarity. Beauty and skincare matched

the brand’s message: edited palettes, intelligent

textures, packaging that behaved like architecture.

Across decades, he remained a daily presence ‒

reviewing sketches, adjusting hems, and finessing

styling ‒ proof that consistency requires attention,

not automation.

LEGACY AND INFLUENCE

When news of his death was announced, Milan

paused. Messages arrived from actors, athletes,

editors, architects and old colleagues who had

witnessed fittings where a hem moved by


Armani with Michelle Pfeiffer

Anne Hathaway in Armani Privé in Cannes

Cate Blanchett in Armani Privé at the Oscars

FASHION CULTURE

GIORGIO ARMANI

millimetres until it looked inevitable. His influence

is easy to spot in every unstructured blazer hanging

in a contemporary wardrobe, in boutiques with

diffused lighting and pale stone floors, in the tonal

dressing that suggests modern professionalism.

HE ALSO SHIFTED EXPECTATIONS OF WHAT A

fashion house could be. Before “lifestyle brand” became

a cliché, Armani built an ecosystem that felt genuinely

integrated ‒ clothes, fragrance, interiors, hospitality ‒

each reinforcing the others. He showed that expansion

need not equal dilution. The Armani Group remains

privately held and headquartered in Milan, a rare

configuration in today’s market, and a testament to his

preference for stewardship over spectacle.

THERE IS A HUMAN DIMENSION TOO.

Armani’s partnership with Sergio Galeotti, who died

in 1985, shaped both the company and the man;

he often credited Galeotti’s commercial boldness

alongside his own design judgment. Family members

and longstanding collaborators formed a stable core

around him. Beyond the atelier, he supported medical

research, responded to humanitarian crises, and

invested in sport, notably Olimpia Milano, with the

same steady hand he brought to pattern cutting.

AN ENDURING VISION

To call Giorgio Armani a designer is accurate but

incomplete. He was an editor ‒ of lines, surfaces,

and gestures ‒ removing what distracted until only


meaning remained. He pursued balance the way a

conductor pursues tempo, alert to the moment when

everything sits exactly where it should. That discipline

produced beauty, but it also produced comfort. Ask

loyal clients why they return time-and-time-again

to Armani, and they mention a feeling: composed,

capable and, most importantly, themselves.

THERE IS A GENTLE IRONY THAT THE PATRON

saint of restraint built one of the broadest empires in

luxury. Yet perhaps that is the point. Restraint, applied

well, scales. It turns out people across continents want

the same thing in a jacket, a room, a fragrance, a lobby:

clarity. Armani supplied it for half a century and codified

it so thoroughly that his vocabulary will continue long

after the applause fades.

IN THE END, HE LEFT A MAP: A WAY TO DRESS,

host, illuminate, and move through the world with

unforced assurance. His archive tells the story in

stitched form; his buildings and boutiques tell it in light

and volume. The lessons travel easily: fewer distractions,

better materials, sharper intent. Fashion will, of

course, continue its whirl of reinvention. But Armani’s

contribution will endure precisely because it doesn’t need

reinvention. It needs guardianship. And it

needs wearers who understand that real luxury

isn’t loud. It is simply correct.


115

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FROM AMSTERDAM, WHERE FLORE ADVANCES

ITS VISION OF CONSCIOUS, SEASON-LED

DINING, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ASCENDS

TO THE ROOFTOP OF THE PENINSULA

ISTANBUL TO EXPERIENCE FATIH

TUTAK’S CULTURAL CROSSROADS OF

TURK–ASIAN FLAVOUR AT GALLADA;

JOURNEYS NORTH TO HELSINKI,

WHERE TAR IS REDEFINING NORDIC

HOSPITALITY FROM ITS OWN TINY

ISLAND; AND RETURNS TO ATHENS

TO HEAR GEORGIANNA HILIADAKI

REFLECT ON HER MOST PERSONAL

CULINARY EVOLUTION YET

FLORE

➤ AMSTERDAM, THE NETHERLANDS

GALLADA

➤ ISTANBUL, TÜRKIYE

TAR

➤ HELSINIKI, FINLAND

GEORGIANNA HILIADAKI

➤ ATHENS, GREECE

IODIO, Athens, Greece

REVIEW

JOE MORTIMER IS HUMBLED BY A CONSCIOUS DINING EXPERIENCE

THAT ADOPTS A NEW WAY OF THINKING ABOUT HOW AND WHAT WE

EAT, AND PAYS HOMAGE TO ANCIENT WAYS, NATURAL CYCLES, AND

THE SEASONAL PRODUCE OF LAND AND SEA

FLORE

➤ AMSTERDAM

THE NETHERLANDS

FOOD & WINE

SERVICE

ATMOSPHERE

ROOTED IN DUTCH CULINARY

heritage and the gentle rhythm of

micro-seasonality, Flore promises a

dining experience shaped by natural

cycles: a tasting journey of exquisite,

occasionally unusual flavours that rise

and recede with time and tide. Born from

the imagination of a culinary team led

by Executive Chef Bas van Kranen, this

Amsterdam restaurant sets out to bring

mindful consumption into a new era with

a concept it defines as ‘conscious dining’.

THERE’S A LOT TO UNPACK.

Dutch food culture was shaped by

the seasonal bounty of land and sea,

with preservation techniques like

fermentation and smoking developed to

extend the life of perishable produce.

Flore – derived from ‘flora’ which

means ‘blossoming’ – channels this past

with a weekly-changing tasting menu

made up of hyper-seasonal ingredients

harvested at peak-freshness, as well

as fish plucked from the cold waters

of the North Sea and an extensive

preservation and fermentation

programme that taps into timehonoured

practices.

THE CONCEPT WON QUICK

acclaim: one year after its debut at

Hotel De L’Europe in 2021, Flore was

recognised with two Michelin stars and


TASTE & SIP

REVIEW

Herring

a green Michelin star. And in April

2025, it reopened following a major

make-over to showcase interiors that reflect

the same sustainable, nature-powered

ideals as the menu. I arrive to find out for

myself what all the fuss is about.

working with the Flore team since the

beginning. Complementing this seasonshifting

assembly are line-caught sole

and turbot, grown plump and fleshy at

this time of year in preparation for cold

winter currents.

Bas van Kranen

IMAGE: CHANTAL ARNTS IMAGE: CHANTAL ARNTS

WALKING FROM THE CLASSICAL

grandeur of Hotel De L’Europe’s

homely lobby into the low-lit, earthy

realm of Flore sets the tone for what’s

to come; a transition that’s especially

effective at night when the restaurant

is illuminated by the glow of warm

lighting as canal boats glide silently

past the waterfront windows. Walls

are made from carbon-negative lime

hemp, which removes CO2 from the

atmosphere; the gently rolling ceiling is

inspired by the curves of the adjacent

Amster River; and the rounded dining

tables, burnt sage banquettes and

sculptural lighting behind the bar feel

organic and natural. It's harmonious

and balanced; a physical reflection of

Flore’s culinary philosophy.

THE MENU: HYPER-EVERYTHING

It’s late September and the trees in

Amsterdam are ablaze in fiery yellows

and oranges. At Flore, it’s defined

as Late Summer Season and the

menu during my visit celebrates the

abundance of shoots, buds, flowers

and fruits that appear across the

Dutch landscape at this time of year;

harvested by a community of farmers

and foragers, many of whom have been

A PAIR OF AMUSE-BOUCHE SET

the scene: a collage of red and yellow

beetroot, Swiss chard, chantarelles and

chamomile – earthy flavours rooted

in the season – and silken tofu with

grilled maitake mushroom in a coffee

shoyu sauce. The latter is rich, deep,

and redolent of autumn evenings in the

woods and smouldering campfires; albeit

with the refined execution and artistic

presentation of a fine-dining experience.

FOLLOWING THE OPENING SALVO

is a signature dish that evolves

constantly throughout the year with a

rotating cast of seasonal ingredients:

a colourful medley of more than 25

vegetables, herbs, fruits and flowers in

a fresh but complex broth that anchors

them together while allowing each to

sing. Ingredients are supplied by a group

of around 10 local organic farmers and

foragers when the produce is at peak

ripeness; harvested, then quickly rotated

into the dish.

“THESE CONVERSATIONS ARE

often the starting point for new dishes,”

says van Kranen, whose culinary career

began washing dishes in a two-Michelinstarred

restaurant aged just 14.


119

“When a farmer mentions they're

experimenting with a new variety

or harvesting technique, or when a

fisherman describes changes in seasonal

catch patterns, these insights directly

influence our menu development. Our

producers understand ingredients

differently than we do – they know growth

patterns, soil influences and optimal

harvest timing. These conversations

challenge our assumptions and open new

creative possibilities we might never have

discovered working in isolation.”

TO FOSTER THESE RELATIONSHIPS,

van Kranen and his team spend

time in the field alongside growers,

a practice he says is fundamental to

Flore’s philosophy. As well as having

the opportunity to collaborate with

producers, it also allows chefs to gain

a better understanding of the seasonal

conditions that give birth to each

ingredient. “When our team visits the

farms, fishing vessels and foraging sites,

they understand the complete story of

each ingredient,” he explains. “They see

how soil conditions, weather patterns

and harvesting techniques affect flavour.

This knowledge transforms how they

handle ingredients in the kitchen — they

understand why a vegetable harvested

after rain tastes different from one

harvested after sunshine.”

AN OCEAN OF INSPIRATION

The meal transitions into the second

act with the first in a series of oceaninspired

dishes: precision-cut mackerel

fillets in a delicate Mexican pipián verde

sauce, with caviar and a light serrano

pepper granita. It’s one of my favourite

dishes of the night and an illustration

of how van Kranen’s style has been

influenced by the culinary traditions and

techniques of other parts of the world. He

talks about the way Japanese cooks extract

maximum flavour with restraint and the

way in which Southeast Asian cuisines

balance heat, acidity and fermentation.

Mexico too has played a big part in his

culinary evolution, opening his eyes to the

generosity of the country’s culture and the

delicate balance of heat and complexity in

its cuisine.

THE NEXT DISH BRINGS IT ALL

together in a duo of dishes: ribbons

of bone-white cuttlefish flash-grilled,

and coastal crab dumplings in savoury

Japanese egg custard and a rich and

savoury broth. My dining companions

agree that the former is a triumph that

transports them to coastal Greece, and

I’m enamoured with the deep umami

flavours of the latter.

THE SAME DEDICATION TO

sustainability and harmony employed

in the kitchen is reflected in the wine

pairings. Up to this point, there has been

a focus on natural and low-intervention

wines – a bright and fruity Moschofilero

with the floral medley and an unfiltered

skin-contact Tokaj with the mackerel.

Both succeed in complementing their

edible counterparts, although the wines

themselves received mixed reviews

at the table. The pairing takes an

IMAGES: CHANTAL ARNTS


TASTE & SIP

REVIEW

unexpected turn with the bottle selected

to accompany the cuttlefish: a lightly

sparking blend of Spätburgunder (Pinot

Noir), rosé and blackcurrant juice.

Unusual, yes, but it somehow threads

a path between the cuttlefish and the

umami flavours of the dumplings,

successfully complementing both with an

insouciant freshness.

THE BALANCING ACT CONTINUES

in the next dish: North Sea turbot in a

vivid green nasturtium curry with razor

clams, accompanied by a self-described

‘supernatural’ blend of Grüner Veltliner and

Chardonnay by Austrian winemaker Moric.

Despite its bold colours, the nasturtium

curry is soft and elegant, allowing the

fleshy fish to hold its own against the

subtle flavours; enhanced by the fresh

acidity and minerality of the wine.

AT THIS POINT WE’RE INVITED

into the kitchen. Past the galley where

great jars of fermenting vegetables –

some of which have been developing

since Flore first opened – are stacked

on the shelves, we find ourselves in an

immaculate prep area. It’s intimate

and convivial, and as the chefs talk

about creativity and process we watch

as our next dish take shape on the

plate: Arctic char with tomato and

plant-based rosehip nduja.

BEYOND IS THE MAIN KITCHEN,

but much of the magic happens

even further behind the scenes in

the research kitchen, where chefs

experiment with fermentation,

preservation and new techniques to

create fresh dishes each week. “We

first understand the ingredient's

natural characteristics, then explore

how different techniques might

enhance or transform those qualities,”

says van Kranen. “We might ferment

one batch, age another and serve a third

fresh to understand the full spectrum

of possibilities.” You won’t find dairy

products or farmed meat at Flore, so

chefs are also tasked with creating

plant-based alternatives that replicate

the flavour, heat or texture of products

traditionally made with meat; like the

rosehip nduja in the last dish, which

adds a touch of sweetness and spice.

BACK AT THE TABLE, ANOTHER

Flore signature demonstrates the

results of this hard labour. Borrowing

from Mexico’s cocoa producing heritage

(but without the cocoa), the primary

ingredient of ‘No Chocolate’ dessert is

sourdough bread exposed to Aspergillus

fungus, which draws out a chocolatelike

flavour. Accompanied by heritagegrain

churros, sweet buckwheat tamale

and a fruit-based mole sauce, it is as

much a flex of Flore’s creative powers

as it as a tribute to chocolate dessert:

culinary alchemy at its finest.

Crab

ADDITIONAL DESSERTS ARRIVE

in a parade of herbs, spices, fruits and

nuts transformed into edible works of

art, and the meal concludes with the

signature Drunken Bear: a single gummy

treat infused with the powerful


121

TASTE & SIP

REVIEW

FLORE

FOOD & WINE

SERVICE

ATMOSPHERE

EXECUTIVE CHEF: Bas van Kranen

ADDRESS: Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2-14,

Amsterdam 1012 CP, The Netherlands

TELEPHONE: +31 20 531 16 19

EMAIL: reservations@restaurantflore.com

WEBSITE:

https://restaurantflore.com

CUISINE: Mindful Seasonal Dutch

IMAGE: CHANTAL ARNTS

OPENING HOURS:

Lunch Friday and Saturday 12:00 - 14:30.

Dinner Wednesday - Saturday 18.30 - 22.00

LUNCH: Three-course lunch menu

EUR 150 (excluding drinks)

kick of negroni. A complementary jar

of Flore white miso offered as a gift at

the end of the meal is a nice touch, one

that ensures the Flore story stays with

me when I use it the following week in a

ramen broth at home.

MICHELIN STARDOM DOESN’T

come easy and for all the storytelling,

mindfulness and educational elements

of the experience, it’s worth repeating

that this is very much a fine-dining

experience where the plating, precision

and artistry elevate each dish. Not

every dish was to the taste of all or our

party – but every single one of them was

intriguing and thought-provoking. And

after all, the very point of Flore is to

push boundaries, change perceptions and

reimagine time-honoured techniques,

while sharing the principles of mindful

dining and sustainability.

MOREOVER, I FEEL LIKE I’VE

been let in on a secret world. At home we

do our best to dine mindfully, using fresh

produce for most home-cooked meals

and local produce where possible. But

ingredients arrive in boxes or bags while

their producers remain strangers. At

Flore it feels like we’re part of something

bigger: a wider world of agriculture,

ancestral knowledge and seasonal cycles,

where nature is the star. From the décor

and design to the menu and thoughtfully

selected wines, every part of the Flore

experience reaffirms its belief in a more

thoughtful way of dining: a

noble philosophy that’s yielding

delicious results.

DINNER: Seven-course tasting menu

EUR 250 (excluding drinks)

IDEAL MEAL: Seven-course tasting menu

EUR 250 with EUR 105 wine pairing or

EUR 84 juice pairing

RESERVATIONS: Essential

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

CHILDREN: No

CREDIT CARDS: All major

PARKING: Chargeable valet

TCT REVIEWER:

Joe Mortimer for dinner

Star ratings out of five reflect the reviewer’s

feedback about the food and wine, service, and the

atmosphere in the dining room


GALLADA

➤ ISTANBUL, TÜRKIYE

NEWCOMER

ON THE ROOFTOP OF THE PENINSULA ISTANBUL,

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU EXPERIENCES

CHEF FATIH TUTAK’S TURK–ASIAN CUISINE – A

REFINED, CULTURAL CROSSROADS OF FLAVOUR,

MEMORY AND MODERNITY

ISTANBUL’S HISTORIC PENINSULA

has always been a meeting point – a

place shaped by merchants, empires and

travellers passing between continents.

The city’s culinary identity reflects this

layered history, its flavours influenced as

much by Central Asian tradition as by

Mediterranean abundance.

IN RECENT YEARS, ISTANBUL’S

dining landscape has entered a new era,

defined by chefs who are re-examining

Turkish gastronomy through the prism

of heritage, craft and regional produce.

Few embody this momentum more

clearly than Fatih Tutak, Turkey’s first

and only two-Michelin-starred chef,

whose inventive approach to Anatolian

cuisine has earned international

acclaim. It is on the rooftop of The

Peninsula Istanbul, not far from the

Galata Tower, that Tutak presents a

different strand of his culinary identity:

Fatih Tutak

GALLADA, a restaurant shaped by the

tastes and traditions of the Silk Road.

BEFORE DINNER I VISIT THE

hotel's sophisticated Topside Bar – a

refined and softly lit space that feels

immediately timeless. Its polished

atmosphere and attentive bartenders

make it an ideal start to the evening,

and a couple of expertly made cocktails

set a graceful tone. Afterwards, I make

my way down one floor to GALLADA,

where the restaurant’s warm glow and

elegant design signal the beginning of a

different kind of journey.

GALLADA’S INTERIORS BLEND

contemporary sophistication with subtle

references to both Ottoman and Asian

aesthetics. Timber lattice screens create

gentle transitions between spaces, while

jade-green accents, woven textures and

soft lighting lend an inviting calm. The

bar, clad in vertical amber-toned panels,

becomes a sculptural focal point in the

early evening light. Elsewhere, handpainted

botanical wallpaper introduces

a delicate, almost poetic atmosphere.


TASTE & SIP

NEWCOMER

It is clear from the outset that this is a

considered space – elegant, tactile and

intentionally harmonious.

BEING A FRIDAY NIGHT, THE

restaurant is busy, and there's a lively

hum as guests settle into the weekend.

My table is in the middle of the dining

room, surrounded by the gentle

movement of service, conversations, and

dishes arriving at neighbouring tables.

The energy feels relaxed yet animated,

giving the room a convivial rhythm.

GALLADA’S CULINARY PHILOSOPHY

follows a simple but compelling idea:

to reinterpret Turk–Asian flavours

through the lens of Istanbul, drawing

on the historic trade routes that once

connected Anatolia with the broader

Asian continent. The ingredients are

sourced from across Turkey’s distinct

provinces, with a focus on seasonal

vegetables and sustainable practices.

Tutak’s style is technically assured yet

rooted in tradition, resulting in dishes

that are finely crafted without ever

feeling distant.

I BEGIN WITH A GLASS OF PRODOM

Fumé Blanc, a fresh and vibrant white

with notes of citrus, green apple, subtle

tropical fruit, a touch of vanilla and a

whisper of smoke. Its crisp acidity is

an excellent match for the first dish:

Artichoke with Spring Tarhana and Dill

Oil. The artichokes – harvested in Urla

and briefly preserved in a light brine – are

gently cooked in olive oil until tender. A

seasonal tarhana made from early spring

vegetables provides gentle tang and body,

while the dill oil adds brightness. The

flavours are clean, precise and deeply

reflective of the Aegean.

ANOTHER STARTER – TUNA

Tartare with Oscietra Caviar and

Pommery Mustard Ice Cream – brings

a shift in tone. A duo of toro and akami,

seasoned with soy and mirin, forms the

base, while a generous spoon of Oscietra

caviar offers salinity and richness.

At the centre, a cold scoop of sharp

mustard ice cream provides contrast and

clarity. Served with nori and puffed rice

crackers, the dish encourages diners to

mix and match components, allowing

the textures and temperatures to come

together in full harmony.

WE CONTINUE WITH CHICKEN

Wings with Turkish BBQ Glaze and

Bulgur Foam, a dish that elevates a

familiar ingredient with unexpected

finesse. The deboned wings are

marinated overnight in soy, ginger and

garlic, then fried in a light batter to

achieve a delicate crispness.

TASTE & SIP

NEWCOMER

layered with thin slices of tail

fat and stacked into dozens of layers,

before marinating in yoghurt and

regional spices. Once grilled, the meat

is tender, juicy and deeply flavoured,

with the interplay of lamb and tail

fat creating exceptional texture. It is

a dish that speaks to discipline and

restraint, letting the quality of the

ingredients shine.

BY NOW, I MOVE TO A TURKISH

red: Doluca Alçıtepe from the Thrace

region. A rich and full-bodied blend of

Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, with

blackberry, black cherry and sweet

spice, the wine is supported by smooth

tannins and lifted by notes of oak,

vanilla and tobacco. Its elegant finish

pairs particularly well with the depth

of the lamb.

ONE OF THE FINAL MAINS, WOK-

Fried Eggplant with Soy and Vinegar

Glaze, brings nostalgia with finesse.

Eggplant and green peppers are lightly

dusted with starch and fried until golden,

then tossed in a soy-vinegar marinade just

before serving. The result is punchy and

umami-forward, with a satisfying balance

of crispness and acidity.

DESSERT IS A SHARED WARM

Medjool Date Cake. Soft, comforting

and lightly spiced, it is enriched with

masala tea and served with whipped

buffalo cream – a fitting conclusion

that echoes the broader themes

of GALLADA’s cuisine: heritage,

movement, connection and refinement.

A STICKY TURKISH BBQ GLAZE

gives a smoky-sweet finish, while the

bulgur filling inside adds depth. A light

bulgur foam ties the flavours together,

resulting in a thoughtful reinterpretation of

comfort food through a contemporary lens.

THE ADANA DUMPLING WITH

Sumac, Onion and Parsley follows –

Tutak’s modern expression of a beloved

Turkish classic. Freshly ground lamb

shoulder is wrapped in a delicate

Chinese-style shumai casing. Steamed

and topped with fresh sumac, onions and

parsley, the dumpling is fragrant and

balanced, with acidity and a herbaceous

lift enhancing the richness of the lamb.

A MAIN COURSE DISH OF

Shashlik – Triple-Cut Lamb with Yogurt

Marinade – demonstrates extraordinary

technique. Three premium lamb cuts are

GALLADA IS NOT MERELY A

rooftop restaurant with a striking

setting. It is a place where chef Fatih

Tutak explores the meeting points of

culture and cuisine with precision and

sensitivity. The dishes are grounded

in Turkish tradition yet open to the

flavours and techniques of Asia,

reflecting a city shaped by exchange. With

its polished design, confident cooking and

lively atmosphere, GALLADA stands

as one of Istanbul’s most compelling

new dining destinations.

I will surely return.

www.galladaistanbul.com


TAR

➤ HELSINKI, FINLAND

HOT TICKET

A RESTORED 19TH-CENTURY STOREHOUSE ON ITS OWN TINY ISLAND, BLENDS

HERITAGE, NORDIC DESIGN AND CULINARY AMBITION IN A SETTING SO

ATMOSPHERIC AND CLOSE TO THE CITY, THAT IT FEELS BOTH A HIDDEN

RETREAT AND HELSINKI’S MOST COMPELLING NEW RESTAURANT

IMAGE: MARCO GODLES

Vitello Tonnato

IMAGE: SILVIA INGRID KUKK

JUST BEYOND THE HUM OF

Helsinki’s harbourfront, a slender

causeway crosses the water towards

Tervasaari ― a small island where

birch trees sway in the Baltic breeze

and the city’s noise dissolves into quiet.

Once a centre for tar production that

helped waterproof countless ships, the

island has long been a place of industry

and reinvention. Today, it has been

reborn once again as the home of TAR,

a restaurant whose name nods to its

maritime past while signalling a new era

of design-driven Nordic dining.

FROM THE CITY CENTRE, IT

takes maximum fifteen minutes to reach

Tervasaari on foot, yet the sense of transition

is striking. Most noticeably, the air smells

faintly of salt and the pace palpably slows.

No other restaurant in Helsinki can claim

such a setting: a self-contained island

that one can reach by car or bicycle, or

after a short waterside stroll, yet which

feels a world apart from the mainland.

And the approach feels mildly cinematic,

quietly heightening the anticipation.

TO ARRIVE AT TAR IS TO FEEL AS

though one has stepped into a different

rhythm of Helsinki life ― more

deliberate, more considered. Here, in

a restored 19th-century storehouse

dating back to 1805, the restaurant’s

contemporary energy meets the grain

of the past in a dialogue that feels both

effortless and inevitable.

TAR’S TRANSFORMATION WAS

entrusted to AOR Architects, whose

sensitivity to historic Finnish structures

is matched by their confidence with

glass, timber, and light. The building’s

original stone walls and exposed beams

remain, their weathered surfaces

preserved like the island’s memory.

Within, Tarmo Piirmets ― best known

for his work on PINK in Tallinn ― has

created interiors that balance rustic

warmth with contemporary restraint.

Rich woods, muted earth tones, and

softly lit textures echo the Nordic

landscape outside, while sculptural

furnishings and hand-finished details

bring quiet theatre to the space.

THE RESTAURANT’S ARCHITECTURE

deftly captures a duality that defines

Helsinki itself ― a city where modern

design rarely feels imposed upon history

but rather grows naturally from it.

Large windows in the restored original

part of the restaurant, and walls of

glass in the modern addition reveal


water views. While by night, subdued

lighting and a cracking fire glow, and

the building feels like a lantern. This

interplay of nature, heritage, and craft

gives TAR an atmosphere at once

grounded and transcendent ― the kind of

place that feels immediately Finnish, yet

international in its outlook.


TASTE & SIP

HOT TICKET


IMAGE: ANTTI RASTIVO

Celeriac Scallops

TAR WAS CONCEIVED THROUGH

friendship rather than formula.

Estonian restaurateurs Tõnis Siigur and

Martti Siimann ― the creative forces

behind the acclaimed Siigur Restaurant

Collection ― joined with Finnish actor

and entrepreneur Jasper Pääkkönen

to bring their shared vision to life.


The trio’s collaboration feels organic:

Siigur’s devotion to craftsmanship and

terroir, Siimann’s eye for detail, and

Pääkkönen’s instinct for atmosphere

have combined to create something that

transcends the conventional idea of a

Nordic restaurant.

FOR SIIGUR AND SIIMANN, TAR

marks their first venture beyond Estonia,

an expansion of a collection that

includes NOA Chef’s Hall (Tallinn’s

Michelin-starred flagship) and Tuljak

(a Bib Gourmand recipient). Their

culinary philosophy ― rooted in local

ingredients, refined technique, and

an openness to global inspiration

― translates seamlessly across the

Gulf of Finland. For Pääkkönen, best

known internationally for his acting

career, TAR represents a continuation

of his interest in meaningful Finnish

design and sustainable enterprise.

The trio’s collaboration has resulted in

a restaurant that feels personal, almost

intimate, even within its

refined framework.

THERE’S AN HONESTY TO TAR

that feels very Nordic. Every detail ―

from the tableware to the statement

banquette fabric ― seems to reflect a

belief in authenticity and craft. Yet the

restaurant also embodies a cosmopolitan

confidence. Its team draws on experience

across Europe’s best kitchens, and its

dishes balance clarity with ambition.

The result is cuisine that speaks of the

north without being constrained by it:

bold yet understated, simple yet carefully

constructed; familiar yet new.

MUCH LIKE HELSINKI ITSELF ― A

city constantly negotiating its place

between tradition and modernity ― TAR

occupies a fertile middle ground. It’s a

place where conversations about design,

architecture, and food overlap naturally;

where guests linger as much for the

atmosphere as for the menu.

AS TWILIGHT SETTLES OVER THE

city and lights shimmer across the water,

TAR feels both remote and connected,

traditional yet daring. It’s this paradox

― this rare balance of place, purpose,

and beauty ― that makes it such a hot

ticket. For visitors seeking a glimpse of

Helsinki’s evolving identity, there may be

no better table in town than one set upon

its own island, surrounded by history, sea,

and the unmistakable allure of

something new.

https://ravintolatar.fi


129

Georgianna Hiliadaki

INTERVIEW

georgianna

hiliadaki

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER CHATS WITH CELEBRATED CHEF

GEORGIANNA HILIADAKI ABOUT HER BOLD NEW SEAFOOD VENTURE,

IODIO, AND HOW IT MARKS A QUIETER, MORE PERSONAL EVOLUTION IN

HER ONGOING REDEFINITION OF MODERN GREEK GASTRONOMY

FROM THE HEART

of Athens to the

cutting edge of modern

gastronomy, Georgianna Hiliadaki has

charted a course that is as refined as

it is grounded in the sea sprayed soil

of her homeland. Much celebrated for

reshaping the landscape of contemporary

Greek cuisine, Hiliadaki has long been

a force in the culinary world. The first

Greek woman to earn two Michelin

stars for one restaurant, her ascent to

global recognition is marked by daring

reinvention and a deep respect for the soul

of Greece.

AFTER STUDYING CULINARY ARTS

in New York, Hiliadaki returned to

Athens with a fresh lens and relentless

energy. Funky Gourmet, her first major

venture in the capital, broke rules

with theatrical, avant-garde dishes

that played with Greek identity. But

while that chapter established her as a

pioneer, her newest restaurant, IODIO,

reflects a different kind of boldness

– one that favours depth over dazzle,

emotion over extravagance.

LOCATED IN THE HEART OF

Athens, IODIO is a modern seafood

restaurant rooted in purity,

sustainability and an unmistakable

sense of place. The name itself – the

Greek word for iodine – evokes the

salty tang of the Aegean and the clean,

mineral sharpness of the sea. It’s a

fitting symbol for a menu that honours

the raw beauty of ingredients while

quietly pushing boundaries.

HERE, THE SEA IS BOTH MUSE

and medium. Dishes such as Sea Urchin

Orecchiette, Anchovy Nigiri, or Bottarga

with White Chocolate reveal a kitchen

unafraid to experiment, yet never

disconnected from Greece’s culinary

soul. Whether it’s a raw grouper

tartare inspired by giouvarlakia, or

the reimagining of a Cypriot sheftalia

using cod, IODIO plays with tradition

in a way that feels instinctive rather

than intellectual. Every element – from

pistachio ice cream made with nuts

from Aegina, to galatopita milk pie

with caramelised nori – is personal,

precise and quietly profound.


TASTE & SIP

INTERVIEW

IMAGE: KATERINA AVGERINOU

Homemade Potato

Chips with Bottarga

FOR HILIADAKI, EVOLUTION HAS

meant letting go of the pressure to

impress and embracing the power of

simplicity. She speaks with candour

about the weight of her Michelin

success and the creative liberation


IODIO

that followed. Where Funky Gourmet

thrived on provocation, IODIO is

grounded, soulful, and confidently

restrained. It’s a restaurant that draws

on the lessons of New York’s ambition,

London’s multicultural flair, and Athens’

emotional pulse – a culmination of her

journey, rather than a reaction to it.

A FORMER LECTURER IN CULINARY

psychology at Harvard, Hiliadaki

brings a layered understanding of

how taste, memory and emotion

intertwine. She is as concerned with

how a dish makes someone feel as

with how it’s plated. At IODIO, she

invites diners to slow down, connect,

and rediscover the sea – not through

spectacle, but through story.

IN A CITY BURSTING WITH

culinary confidence, Georgianna

Hiliadaki remains one of its clearest,

most resonant voices. IODIO is more

than her next act. It’s her most

personal yet. https://iodioathens.gr

IMAGE: YIORGOS SFAKIANAKIS

Fish soup with Steamed Cod

What was the initial idea or spark

behind IODIO?

The idea behind IODIO was born from

a shared vision between my partner,

Haris Spyrou, and myself: to create a

space that captures the essence of the

sea, elegant yet simple, comfortable yet

deeply connected to the maritime spirit

of Greece. From the start, we envisioned

more than a restaurant; we wanted a

destination where flavours, tradition

and creativity meet in a relaxed yet

refined atmosphere. Equally vital to

this journey are my invaluable partners:

Danae Voridou, co-owner and chef,

whose bold creativity and technical

mastery bring constant innovation,

and Erasmia Balaska, a cornerstone

of our R&D team, whose precision and

deep knowledge anchor our culinary

explorations. Together, we have crafted

a menu that honours raw ingredients

while pushing boundaries, imaginative,

respectful, and rooted in the soul of

Greek seafood gastronomy.

How would you describe IODIO’s

culinary identity in just three words?

Sea-inspired. Refined. Authentic.


131

IODIO means ‘iodine’ in Greek – why did that

name feel right for this project?

The name just felt right, almost

instinctively. Iodine is the scent and

essence of the sea: that sharp, clean,

salty note in the air that instantly feels

like the ocean. It’s a symbol of purity,

vitality, and a deep connection to nature.

Just like iodine signals the presence of

the sea, our restaurant is a tribute to the

richness of the Greek waters. At IODIO,

freshness isn’t just a standard, it’s a way

of thinking. Every ingredient has a story

behind it: the fisherman who caught it,

the farmer who grew it, the land and the

sea it came from. Sustainability isn’t a

trend for us; it’s a mindset. We constantly

ask ourselves not just what we take from

nature, but also what we give back.

What makes modern seafood at IODIO

different from what Athenians are used to?

We aspire to craft our menu as a reflection

of our philosophy: that gastronomy is

not just food, but a form of expression,

a delicate balance of creativity and

discipline. Our dishes are an ode to

Greek ingredients. From unexpected

combinations like Greek Bottarga with

White Chocolate, to reimagined classics

such as Raw Grouper Tartare Inspired

By Giouvarlakia, we constantly challenge

culinary boundaries. We draw inspiration

from both Greek heritage and global

cuisines, like our Anchovy Nigiri, or our

playful reinterpretation of "Clean Monday"

with Taramas and Lagana Bread. This

creativity extends throughout the menu,

from Spanako-Pizza (a pizza-style

spanakopita), to Cod Seftalia – a twist on

the Cypriot classic using fish. Even our

desserts honour Greece, such as IODIO

Signature Pistachio Ice-cream, which

is made using carefully selected Aegina

pistachio nuts, and reimagined Galatopita

Milk Pie with Caramelised Nori – both

showcase our commitment to Greek

ingredients, through a modern lens.

Did any one ingredient or dish shape the

menu’s creative direction?

Bottarga from Messolonghi, with its

intense umami character, oceanic depth

and strong personality, is one of our

go-to ingredients. A Greek delicacy

made from the cured roe of grey mullet,

Thinly Sliced Catch-of-the Day with Olive Oil and Thyme

Bottarga has long been part of the

country’s gastronomic heritage, and we

celebrate it in our signature dish, Greek

Bottarga with White Chocolate.

How does IODIO reflect your evolution as a

chef, post-Funky Gourmet?

Before opening IODIO, I’ll admit I felt

a deep sense of pressure, both external

and internal, about what my “next step”

would be. Having carried the weight

of a two Michelin-starred restaurant,

the expectations were high and I felt

a responsibility to create something

meaningful, without being trapped in

the need to constantly prove myself.

But that pressure turned out to be a

powerful creative force. IODIO became

the space where I allowed myself to

evolve, to create something fresh, more

personal, and entirely different. It’s not

a continuation of Funky Gourmet; it’s

a new chapter. Where Funky Gourmet

was bold and avant-garde, IODIO is

grounded in simplicity, warmth, and a

deep connection to the sea and Greek

ingredients. It reflects my growth, not

just in technique but in perspective. I’ve

learned that evolution in the kitchen

requires constant risk-taking. Success

can be motivating, but it can also tempt

you to stand still. IODIO is a reminder

to keep moving, keep questioning, and to

never settle. It represents my belief that

creativity doesn’t end with a signature

dish or a well-known restaurant, it lives

in every new idea, every plate, and every

honest connection with the ingredient

and the guest.

You’ve worked in London, New York and

Athens – how did those influences find their

way onto the IODIO menu?

Each city I’ve lived and worked in has

left a deep imprint on my cooking, not

just technically, but philosophically.

They’ve shaped the way I think, create,

and approach food. New York gave me

energy, ambition, and speed. It’s a city

that constantly pushes you to exceed your

limits. That’s where I studied culinary

arts and learnt to see food through a

global lens, with no boundaries and no

fear, just endless possibilities. In Spain, I

embraced the beautiful madness locura,

and a passion and intensity for flavour



TASTE & SIP

INTERVIEW

IODIO Signature Pistachio Ice-Cream

create moments that hit both the senses

and the heart.

Georgianna Hiliadaki at IODIO

that makes every bite feel alive. London

was where I learnt to translate Greek

flavours into an international language.

Through my work at OPSO and other

projects, I embraced multiculturalism,

precision, and bold creativity, all while

staying true to my roots. And then there’s

Athens, my home. It’s where the emotion

lives: my memories, my roots, my first

inspirations. It’s the city that gave birth to

Funky Gourmet and now, IODIO. From

Athens, I carry the Mediterranean light,

a purity of ingredients, a strong sense of

place, and a drive to honour where I come

from in a modern and meaningful way.

Is there a dish on the menu that feels

especially personal to you?

Cooking is my most creative form of

expression, so it’s incredibly hard to

choose just one dish that feels entirely

personal, each one reflects a different

side of who I am. Every dish is a piece of

me. Through them, I tell my story.

How do you balance the purity of Greek

seafood with your instinct for innovation?

For me, balance begins with

respect. Greek seafood is so pure, so

extraordinary, that it doesn’t need to be

overworked. My first instinct is always

to let the ingredient speak for itself.

Innovation, then, comes as a way of

highlighting that purity, not masking

it. Sometimes it’s a playful texture,

a surprising pairing, or a refined

technique, but never at the expense of

the product itself.

You’ve taught at Harvard – does Culinary

Psychology shape the way diners

experience IODIO?

Teaching at Harvard really expanded my

horizons on how the mind creates strong

bonds with flavour, it’s not just about

what we taste, but how we experience

it. At IODIO, that idea is constantly on

our minds. Culinary psychology isn’t

some abstract concept for us; it actually

guides how we build a dish, the textures

we mix, and even how we pace the whole

menu. Moreover, comfort-food flavours

and memory are deeply connected to our

philosophy. Sometimes just one ingredient

can take a person back to a moment, and

we love playing with that. We aim to

What do you want people to feel after

dining at IODIO?

When someone dines at IODIO, I want

them to walk away feeling like they’ve

experienced something real, honest, and

unforgettable. Not just a meal, but a

moment. I want them to taste bold, clean

flavours, to feel the presence of the sea

in every bite, and to connect with the

simplicity and depth of our ingredients.

For us, it’s not just about feeding people,

it’s about offering a journey.

Finally, what excites you most about Athens’

dining scene right now?

Athens has never felt more alive when it

comes to food. In recent years, the city’s

culinary scene has exploded with energy,

blending traditional Greek flavours with

modern thinking. You’ll find everything

from family-run tavernas serving

time-honoured dishes to contemporary

kitchens reimagining Greek cuisine with

global influences. Chefs are bringing

bold ideas to the table, some rooted in

tradition, others breaking the rules in all

the right ways. Classics like pastitsio or

dolmadakia are being creatively madeover,

while Mediterranean ingredients

meet Asian or Latin American flair.

Having been part of this journey from

Funky Gourmet to IODIO, it’s inspiring

to see how far Athens has come. The

city isn’t just “emerging” anymore. It

is confident, creative, and full of

heart. And it still feels like the

beginning of something greater.


133

2025 CHRISTMAS

GIFT COLLECTION

WITH ARTISAN MAKERS, INDEPENDENT

DESIGNERS AND CREATIVE TALENTS

DELIVERING EVER MORE IMAGINATIVE

FESTIVE TREASURES, CHOOSING THE PERFECT

CHRISTMAS GIFTS CAN FEEL LIKE A GLORIOUS

BUT OVERWHELMING TASK. FORTUNATELY,

ADRIAN GIBSON HAS DONE THE HUNTING FOR

YOU. FROM HAND-PAINTED CHOCOLATES AND

CONTEMPORARY ART TO DESIGN-FORWARD

HOMEWARE, BOUTIQUE BEAUTY FINDS AND

LUXE FASHION PIECES, THIS YEAR’S EDIT

CELEBRATES CRAFTSMANSHIP, CHARACTER AND

A LITTLE SEASONAL SPARKLE. CONSIDER YOUR

CHRISTMAS GIFTING OFFICIALLY SORTED!

THOMAS

WOLSKI

CHRISTMAS

ORNAMENT

CONTEMPORARY ARTIST THOMAS WOLSKI IS

known for transforming everyday objects into

intricate works of art, and this year’s limited ceramic

Christmas ornament is a charming addition to his

oeuvre. The hand-drawn snowman, set against a

night sky and dotted with golden stars, captures his

signature monochrome detailing with a festive twist.

Finished with a velvet ribbon and supplied with a

matching pouch, it’s a beautifully affordable piece of

collectible art to enjoy year after year.

£49 www.thomaswolski.com

SHOPPING

BUCKINGHAM PALACE

CHRISTMAS HAMPER

FIT FOR A KING OR QUEEN, THIS LAVISH WICKER HAMPER

from Buckingham Palace is brimming with festive delights.

Inside you’ll find a classic Christmas pudding, buttery mince

pies, caramelised onion chutney, seasonal tea, marzipan fruits

and more, along with a gleaming red crown decoration to give

your tree a regal flourish. A wonderfully British way to celebrate

the season and share a taste of royal indulgence.

£125 www.royalcollectionshop.co.uk

ICONIC BY DAME

ZANDRA RHODES

DAME ZANDRA RHODES’ BESTSELLING MEMOIR RETURNS

in paperback, offering a colourful, candid journey through

her extraordinary life via 50 personally significant objects.

From tea with Princess Margaret to art-school days with

David Hockney, and opening her first shop with a helping

hand from Vanessa Redgrave, the stories are as starstudded

as they are heartfelt. A witty, warm and inspiring

read – ideal for fashion lovers and cultural magpies alike.

£10.99 www.waterstones.com

TORI MURPHY

SANTA STOCKING

TORI MURPHY’S LIMITED-EDITION SANTA

stocking brings a touch of understated

English charm to Christmas morning.

Handmade in linen stone and finished with a

generous flop-over frill trimmed in rich claret

fringe, it feels both nostalgic and luxurious.

Fully lined in harbour-stripe claret and

personalised with an initial, it’s a beautifully

crafted keepsake to treasure year after year.

£65 www.torimurphy.com


135

SHOPPING

BVLGARI OCTO

FINISSIMO WATCH

CRAFTED WITH RAZOR-SHARP PRECISION AND

bold Italian design flair, the Octo Finissimo marries

aesthetic sophistication with technical mastery.

Housed in a 40 mm ultra-lightweight titanium case,

it conceals the in-house BVL 138 calibre with

micro-rotor, offering a 60-hour power reserve.

With its brushed-finish dial, integrated bracelet

and silhouette so slim it slips effortlessly

under a cuff, it’s the height of refined modern

watchmaking – the kind of gift that signals both

impeccable taste and engineering prestige.

£15,300 www.mytheresa.com

SAINT LAURENT

DAKOTA SATIN

PUMPS

SAINT LAURENT’S DAKOTA SLINGBACKS PROVE

that a lower heel can still pack serious attitude.

Cut from inky black satin with ultra-tapered

toes and sculpted rosette appliqués, they’re

finished with a gleaming 50mm kitten heel that

adds just enough lift for long nights out. Elegant,

dramatic and surprisingly wearable, they’re the

kind of shoes that glide from cocktail party to

gallery opening without missing a step – a smart

gift for anyone who loves Parisian polish without

the skyscraper stilettos.

£1,070 www.net-a-porter.com


LELIVE TRAVEL GLOW KIT

CREATED BY AMANDA DU-PONT AND INSPIRED BY HER SWAZI HERITAGE,

Lelive blends African botanicals with cutting-edge skincare science. This

handy travel-sized glow kit brings together five of the brand’s bestsellers –

Jelly Splash Cleanser, All Glow’d Up Serum, Crème de la Cream Moisturiser,

All the Shade SPF and the Drip Setting Mist. Suitable for all skin types and

perfect for long-haul flights or weekend escapes, it’s a compact ritual of

hydration, protection and radiance.

£35 www.lelive.uk

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

SUEDE WEEKEND BAG

WEEKENDS AWAY DESERVE A TOUCH OF QUIET LUXURY, AND

Brunello Cucinelli delivers it with signature understatement.

This panelled suede bag is crafted in the brand’s Umbrian

atelier from velvety, tobacco-toned suede, trimmed with

supple leather and finished with perfectly weighted hardware.

Spacious enough for a few days’ essentials yet refined

enough to carry straight into a smart lobby, it strikes that

sweet spot between practicality and polish. Consider it the

ultimate companion for stylish escapes – a gift that will age

beautifully and travel well for years to come.

£3,900 www.mrporter.com

BOTTEGA VENETA

METALLIC LEATHER

CLUTCH

BOTTEGA VENETA’S ICONIC KNOT CLUTCH GETS A DAZZLING

festive update in this metallic leather edition, transforming a house

classic into a gilded little showpiece. Crafted in the signature

intreccio weave and finished with the sculptural knot clasp adored

by collectors, it’s a compact masterpiece that adds instant drama

to any evening look. Lightweight, luminous, and irresistibly chic, it’s

the sort of accessory that does all the talking – ideal for someone

who loves their glamour served with a touch of Italian artistry.

£3,550 www.mytheresa.com


137

SHOPPING

BRITISH BOXERS

JOLLY HOLLY

SLEEPWEAR

BRITISH BOXERS BRINGS FESTIVE CHEER TO

bedtime with its charming Jolly Holly print, created

in ultra-soft bamboo stretch fabric for breathable

comfort. Her nightdress is sweet and effortless; his

pyjama trousers pair with a contrasting long-sleeve

tee; and there’s even a matching children’s set

for a full family ensemble on Christmas morning.

Thoughtful, cosy and perfectly seasonal.

Her £49, Him £59, Kids £32

https://british-boxers.com

JEWELLERY BY

KATIE WEINER

SINCE 1994, JEWELLER KATIE WEINER HAS BEEN

creating one-of-a-kind pieces inspired by her global

travels and a passion for vintage treasures. Her

work has featured in leading publications, graced

Hollywood film sets, and even been presented to

Sir David Attenborough. Each design blends handselected

gemstones with contemporary detailing,

resulting in jewellery that feels personal, storied and

entirely individual.

Turquoise Charm Necklace £115

Sunset Drop Earrings £130

www.katieweiner.com


IMAGE: JO THORNE

KNOCKOUT UNDIES & NIGHTWEAR

WWW.BRITISH-BOXERS.COM

SHOPPING

RANKIN

PHOTOSHOOT

A GIFT WITH GENUINE “WOW” FACTOR, A

hand-signed Christmas card from world-renowned

photographer Rankin unlocks a private 20-minute

RankinLive session at his London studio. The

recipient will be photographed by Rankin himself,

receive a contact sheet to choose their favourite

image, and take home an authenticated A4 inkjet

portrait along with a digital file for personal

use. An unforgettable experience and a portrait

destined to be treasured for life.

£500 https://rankinswag.com

MARK WARDEL

DAVID BOWIE MASK

ARTIST MARK WARDEL – ONCE FAMED ON THE

1990s club scene for his iconic TradeMark flyers –

now channels his creativity into extraordinary life

masks inspired by David Bowie’s most legendary

personas. Cast from an original 1974 mould of Bowie’s

face, each mask is sculpted in ultra-durable plaster

and meticulously hand-painted. This latest Neon

Hammersmith Ziggy edition glows with the fiery

red tones of the 1973 “retirement” concert at the

Hammersmith Odeon. Signed, numbered and

supplied with a certificate of authenticity, each

piece is made to order.

£425 https://trashdna.com


WIN

PRIZE

DRAW

a hand-signed and

dedicated copy of

dominic skinner's

glowography book

IN THE BRITISH BEAUTY WORLD, FEW FIGURES INSPIRE QUITE THE SAME

mix of admiration and excitement as Dominic Skinner. As MAC Cosmetics’ UK

Director of Makeup Artistry – and a familiar face on BBC Three’s hit series Glow Up: Britain’s

Next Make-Up Star – he’s long been celebrated for his creative flair and sharp eye. Skinner

has worked with a host of leading designers to bring bold, memorable looks to life, and his

best-selling guide, Glowography tears up the rulebook with a fresh, fearless take on modern

make-up artistry.

TO

WIN

www.dominicmua.com

a personal copy of Glowography, hand-signed and

dedicated by Dominic himself, email your name and contact

details to win@theculturedtraveller.com before 31 January 2026.

UK entrants only. The books will be dispatched to winners in March 2026. Multiple entries will be

disqualified. By entering, entrants give their permission to be added to The Cultured Traveller's

subscriber base. The Cultured Traveller will definitely not share your details with third parties.

SHOPPING

THE LONDON

EDITION TEAPOT

A REFINED KEEPSAKE FROM IAN SCHRAGER’S

Soho landmark, this fine bone china teapot

features artwork inspired by the ornate Edwardian

plasterwork that crowns The London EDITION’s

soaring 18-foot lobby ceiling. Elegant, quietly

theatrical and beautifully made, it captures the

hotel’s fusion of heritage and contemporary design

– the perfect pour for anyone who loves their tea

served with a dash of London style.

£139.50 https://europe.shopedition.com

GUÐBJÖRG KÁRADÓTTIR

CERAMIC CARAFE SET

COMMISSIONED BY EDITION HOTELS, THIS EXCLUSIVE CARAFE SET

by Icelandic ceramicist Guðbjörg Káradóttir reflects the raw, unfiltered

beauty of the Icelandic landscape. Its soft, earthy tones and tactile

finish evoke volcanic stone, coastal light and winter skies, bringing a

serene touch of the north into any home. A thoughtful, functional art

piece for design lovers and minimalists alike.

£144 https://europe.shopedition.com

CULTURE: THE

LEADING HOTELS

OF THE WORLD

THIS HANDSOME SECOND VOLUME CELEBRATES

more than 80 of the world’s finest luxury hotels,

bound in a striking Moroccan-blue case that makes it

a gift-worthy addition to any coffee table. Featuring

contributions from cultural luminaries such as Stephen

Fry and Solange Azagury-Partridge, it’s a journey

through extraordinary destinations, impeccable design

and the enduring allure of exceptional hospitality.

£54.95 www.amazon.co.uk


ADAM HANDLING

CHRISTMAS

CHOCOLATES

MICHELIN-STARRED CHEF ADAM HANDLING

brings his trademark precision to his smallbatch

chocolate shop, where every bonbon is

handcrafted to showcase the true character

of sustainable cacao. For 2025, the Christmas

Collection arrives hand-painted and irresistibly

festive, with flavours such as Spiced Pear, Toasted

Cinnamon, Sea Buckthorn, Christmas Pudding,

Mince Pie, Mulled Wine, Gingerbread Spice and

Candy Cane. Available in boxes of four, twelve

or twenty-four, they’re an elegant way to elevate

seasonal gifting – or simply treat yourself.

£13.20 for 4, £37.50 for 12, £60 for 24

www.adamhandlingchocolate.co.uk

KONSTANTINOS

CHALARIS

LIBERTY PRINT

EAST LONDON ARTIST KONSTANTINOS

Chalaris swaps architecture for illustration,

creating richly detailed prints that reimagine

iconic buildings with a touch of Art Nouveau

fantasy. His Liberty façade – adorned with

blossoming orchids – is one of his most

recognisable works and already a favourite

among collectors. With commissions for Harrods,

Liberty and Athens’ Acropolis Museum, he’s

a name to watch, and this piece is a vibrant,

affordable entry into his world.

£45 www.kchalaris.com


143

SHOPPING

BE KIND DARLING

REROPE KEYRING

PROOF THAT PRACTICAL ITEMS CAN ALSO

carry personality, Be Kind Darling’s ReRope

keyring is crafted in the UK from Marlow Ropes

Blue Ocean®️ marine rope – a premium material

made from 100% recycled plastic bottles and

originally designed for luxury yachts. Finished

with leather, rubber detailing and a gilded split

ring, it’s robust, stylish and echoing the brand’s

uplifting name, a small reminder to move

through the world with kindness.

£26 www.bekinddarling.com

B SKINCARE

DOG WALKING

GIFT PACK

BORN FROM A CHANCE ENCOUNTER

with a natural foot cream recipe

– purchased directly from a white

witch, no less – B Skincare has

grown from a Cornish kitchen-table

start-up to a thriving family business

on Bodmin Moor. Their Dog Walking

Gift Pack is a thoughtful treat for

outdoorsy types, pairing the brand’s

cooling Peppermint Foot Cream with

its bestselling Muscle Rub, perfect

for soothing tired legs after long

rambles. Natural, affordable and

proudly handmade, it’s a small luxury

for those who clock up the miles with

their pooches.

£17 www.bskincare.co.uk

NOTTING HILL DADDY

CHRISTMAS CANDLE

NOTTING HILL DADDY CREATES SMALL-BATCH CANDLES

using organic beeswax and coconut oil – no paraffin, no

synthetics, just clean, naturally purifying burn. Enhanced

with aromatherapy-grade essential oils, the fragrances are

delicate yet long-lasting. This year’s Christmas blend layers

cedar and cinnamon with soft hints of patchouli and oud,

poured into a glass jar with twin wicks and a 72-hour burn

time. A warm, elegant scent to carry the season through.

£45 nottinghilldaddy.com

GORDON W ROBERTSON

TRINKET BOX

SCOTTISH METAL ARTIST GORDON W ROBERTSON

blends traditional craftsmanship with his own distinctive

etching techniques to create beautifully

expressive objects. This 8cm pewter

trinket box features a patinated

lid inspired by the radiating

geometry of a sunflower,

each line engraved by hand.

Elegant, sculptural and

crafted in London, it’s a

refined little treasure for

storing jewellery, keepsakes

or simply adding quiet luxury to

a bedside table.

£100 www.gordonwrobertson.com


LITTLE BLACK BOOK

WEB DIRECTORY FOR ISSUE 52 OF

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER MAGAZINE

A

AMAN NAI LERT BANGKOK

➤ www.aman.com

ARLO WASHINGTON DC

➤ https://arlohotels.com

AVALA TOWER

➤ https://avalskitoranj.rs

B

BANYAN TREE LIJIANG

➤ www.banyantree.com/china/

lijiang

BELGRADE EXPO 2027

➤ www.expobelgrade2027.org/en

BELGRADE FORTRESS

➤ www.beogradskatvrdjava.co.rs

BLATOBRAN GALLERY

➤ www.blatobran.com

BOJKOVČANKA DISTILLERY

➤ https://quburich.rs

BRENNER'S PARK HOTEL

➤ www.oetkerhotels.com

C

CAMBRIDGE BOTANIC LIGHTS

➤ www.botanic.cam.ac.uk

CELTIC CONNECTIONS

➤ www.celticconnections.com

CENTRE OF THE NATIONAL

BANK OF SERBIA

➤ www.centarzaposetioce.nbs.rs

CHICHIBU YOMATSURI

➤ www.chichibu-matsuri.jp/en

COUR DES LOGES

➤ https://courdesloges.com/en

CULTURAL CENTER OF BELGRADE

➤ www.kcb.org.rs

D

DESERT X ALULA

➤ https://desertx.org

DESIGN MUSEUM, LONDON

➤ www.designmuseum.org

DOMINIC SKINNER

➤ www.dominicmua.com

DRAGOLJUB

➤ http://newbalkancuisine.com

F

FÊTE DU CITRON

➤ www.feteducitron.fr

FLORE RESTAURANT

➤ https://restaurantflore.com

G

GALERIJA BELGRADE

➤ www.galerijabelgrade.com/en

GALLADA RESTAURANT

➤ www.galladaistanbul.com

GIORGIO ARMANI

➤ www.armani.com

GRAND EGYPTIAN MUSEUM

➤ www.gem.eg

H

HARBIN ICE AND SNOW FESTIVAL

➤ www.icefestivalharbin.com

HAVANA INTERNATIONAL

BALLET FESTIVAL

➤ www.balletnacionaldecuba.cu

HOTEL ST. GEORGE

➤ www.stgeorgehelsinki.com

I

IL PALIO DI BUTI

➤ www.paliodibuti.eu

IODIO RESTAURANT

➤ https://iodioathens.gr

J

JAIPUR LITERATURE FESTIVAL

➤ www.jaipurliteraturefestival.org

JEVREMOVAC GARDENS

➤ https://jevremovac.bio.bg.ac.rs

JW MARRIOTT CRETE RESORT

➤ www.jwmarriottcreteresort.

com

K

KIMPTON BEM BUDAPEST

➤ www.kimptonbembudapest.com

LEMALA OSONJOI LODGE

➤ www.lemalacamps.com

LE MÉRIDIEN AHMEDABAD

➤ www.lemeridienahmedabad.com

M

MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY

ART, BELGRADE

➤ www.msub.org.rs

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART

IN WARSAW

➤ https://artmuseum.pl/en

N

NEW ZEALAND FESTIVAL

OF THE ARTS

➤ www.festival.nz

NIKOLA TESLA MUSEUM

➤ www.tesla-museum.org/en

NOBLE ROOTS BAR

➤ www.nobleroots.bar

NOBU HOTEL WARSAW

➤ www.nobuhotels.com/warsaw

NONNA HANDMADE

➤ https://nonnahandmade.com

P

PERTH FESTIVAL

➤ www.perthfestival.com.au

POWIS CASTLE

➤ www.powis.org.uk

R

RANKIN

➤ www.rankinphoto.co.uk

RIDDLE BAR

➤ https://riddle.bar

RIO CARNIVAL

➤ www.riocarnaval.com

ROYAL PALACE OF BELGRADE

➤ www.royalfamily.org/palaces

S

SANASARYAN HAN

➤ www.theluxurycollection.com

SAVA CENTER

➤ www.savacentar.rs

SAVANOVA

➤ https://savanova.rs

SAVANT BRASSERIE

➤ https://st-regis.marriott.com

SILOSI BEOGRAD

➤ www.silosi.rs

SHARJAH LIGHT FESTIVAL

➤ www.sharjahlightfestival.ae

SON XOTANO

➤ https://annuahotels.com/en

T

TAR RESTAURANT

➤ https://ravintolatar.fi

TEMPLE OF SAINT SAVA

➤ www.svetogsave.com/en

THE BRISTOL BELGRADE

➤ https://thebristolbelgrade.com

THE HALCYON PRIVATE ISLES

➤ www.thehalcyonmaldives.com

THE ISOLANO, CRES

➤ www.marriott.com/rjkck

THE STANDARD, BRUSSELS

➤ www.standardhotels.com

THE ST. REGIS BELGRADE

➤ https://st-regis.marriott.com

TOURISM ORGANIZATION

OF BELGRADE

➤ www.tob.rs/en

TRPKOVIĆ BAKERY

➤ https://pekaratrpkovic.rs

U

UP HELLY AA

➤ www.uphellyaa.org

V

VELIKA SKADARLIJA

➤ https://restoranvelikaskadarlija.

com

VIENNA PHILHARMONIC

➤ www.wienerphilharmoniker.at/en

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YURY REVICH

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ZEPTER MUSEUM

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WEB DIRECTORY

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER 145

TRAVEL TIPS AT THE TOP

rankin

RANKIN HAS SHOT SUPERMODELS, POP ICONS AND

PRIME MINISTERS, AND CLOCKED UP COUNTLESS

AIR MILES IN THE PROCESS. WE ASK THE RENOWNED

BRITISH PHOTOGRAPHER TWELVE QUESTIONS ABOUT

WHAT HE PACKS, HOW HE STAYS CREATIVE IN TRANSIT,

AND THE PLACES THAT ALWAYS CATCH HIS EYE

Do you pack with precision, or leave room

for spontaneous shoots on the road?

To be honest I don’t pack cameras for

spontaneous shoots. If I’m not working,

I’m not shooting. People assume that

photographers walk around constantly

taking pictures, but I don’t. Travelling is a

great time for me to think and come up with

concepts, ideas, research.

What’s your go-to travel wardrobe

when flying between photo shoots? And

favoured luggage brand?

Always black. I’m not the subject. And I

genuinely don’t care about luggage brands,

as long as it doesn’t fall apart. I’ve spent 30

years photographing fashion and it hasn’t

made me fashionable.

Have you ever captured a favourite

portrait while in transit?

No. Portraits need connection, and you can’t

connect with someone in an airport queue.

Which camera is always in your hand

luggage, no matter where you’re headed?

My phone. That’s it. On planes, I have

to have a window seat because I love

photographing clouds. I’ve got hundreds of

cloud pictures on my phone – I’m obsessed

London

with clouds. I take them constantly out of

airplane windows.

Do you have any rituals or routines during

long-haul flights?

I read and listen to audiobooks and

podcasts. I’m a cultural sponge. But

honestly? I mostly work. Long flights are

when I can think without interruption.

That’s when my ideas come.

You’ve photographed countless faces – is

there a city where people just look more

interesting?

No one city. Everywhere is different and

I just love people. That’s the whole point,

whether it’s a Prime Minister or a displaced

kid in Goma, Congo or an 80-year-old

surrealist artist in Mexico for RankinLive.

It’s about the human in front of you. People

are endlessly fascinating, everywhere.

Which airport do you secretly rate -

whether for its architecture, flow, or

people-watching potential?

Barcelona. The architecture’s stunning and

it’s really well organised – it just works. But

I also really love Nairobi airport because

it’s kind of mad and chaotic, and I do love

that. Complete opposite energy, but both feel

honest. Barcelona’s this beautiful, controlled

thing, Nairobi’s barely controlled chaos.

Is there a location that’s shaped your

creative vision more than any other?

London. I love it when I fly back in and see

the city, I still get a buzz. It’s just so diverse

in terms of everything. People, architecture,

art, everything. Of course, I’m sad that there

are fewer nightclubs and live music venues,

but I think things do come in waves. London

is just magic – the culture, the mix, the

constant reinvention. It’s been feeding my

work for 30 years.

What’s the most unexpected place you’ve

found visual inspiration while travelling?

Glasgow. I was born there. The people in

Glasgow have this thing called ‘thrawn’, it’s

stubborn, contrary, bloody-minded in the

best possible way. They don’t suffer fools, will

always challenge you and really make you

laugh. I love it and them.

What are the non-negotiables in your

carry-on kit?

Audiobook (I kick myself if I haven’t got

one downloaded). Headphones. Notebook.

Laptop. That’s it. Creativity doesn’t come

from having the right pen and I don’t care

about the perfect travel pillow. It comes from

being bored enough to think.

Where in the world is the light most

perfect for taking photographs?

The light in Capri is amazing. It’s such a

small island that you have a 360-degree

sky - I love it. I love the unpredictable light

of nature. There’s nothing like watching

a rainstorm come in from out at sea and

having to rush a shot and then take

cover. That chaos and urgency can’t be

manufactured in a studio.

Is there a destination you’ve returned to

time and again, and still see through a

fresh lens?

Los Angeles. It’s like my second home. The

massive skies, the sun in the winter. It’s still

a golden city for me. Every time I go back

there’s something new to see, or maybe I’m

just seeing it differently. It’s like

being in a movie.

www.rankinphoto.co.uk


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(52) The Cultured Traveller, December 2025-February 2026 Issue 52

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