Adventure Magazine

adventure

where actions speak louder than words

where actions speak louder than words

TRAVEL

ISSUE 254

Feb - Mar 2026

NZ $16.90 incl. GST

inside the journeys that

still require effort

PURE MOUNTAIN

Travelling: An education for the soul

“Travelling – it leaves you speechless, then turns

you into a storyteller.” (Ibn Battuta)

Hyder, Alaska

Travel is more than movement from one

place to another; it is a quiet education for

the soul. When we travel, we step outside

the routines that shape our days and enter

spaces where curiosity leads and where

adventure awaits. In those moments of

unfamiliar mountains, new languages,

and different customs, we learn to listen,

observe and adapt. That is where growth

begins.

For the soul, travel offers perspective. It

reminds us that the world is wider than our

worries and richer than our assumptions.

Seeing how others live, what they value,

what they do, what they experience; builds

empathy in ways no book or screen ever

could. Travel teaches humility, showing us

that our way is not the only way, and travel

teaches us gratitude, as we recognize both

what we have and what we share with

others.

In this issue you will see travel is the

foundation of adventure. Every journey

begins with uncertainty, and adventure

thrives in that space. Missed trains,

unexpected friendships, wrong turns that

lead to beautiful places, these experiences

shape resilience and build confidence. They

teach us to trust ourselves and remain open

to surprise.

Then, when we return home, we are never

the same. Like Ibn Battuta suggests, travel

transforms silence into stories. We carry

memories that inspire and connect us

to others. It gives us a comparison, both

good and bad. Everyone who has spent

a week in a tent and comes home to a

three-bedroom house and wonders why we

need so much space, anyone living out of

a backpack for a month stares woefully at a

wardrobe full of clothes and ask ‘why’? Yet

once home we also embrace the family and

enjoy familiar in ways we simply forget.

The Adventure travel issue is always a

perfect way to begin the year, brimming

with promise and endless paths waiting to

be explored.

Steve Dickinson / Editor

Mid 2025 in Alaska

BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA

BEHIND THE COVER:

Kayaking around the icebergs of Antarctica is just one of

the many ways Mike & Anne Howard have been exploring

the world on their 5,000-day HoneyTrek. What started as

a honeymoon in 2012 has become the inspiration for a

National Geographic book on couples travel and a daily

obsession for a half million followers across their

@HoneyTrek social media channels. Though, this is not

Instagram gloss...this is what marriage looks like when

adventure leads the way. From hitchhiking across Africa to

staying in five-star treehouse hotels in Scandinavia, these

two have stories to tell and invaluable tips to share.

Read our interview with “The World’s Longest

Honeymooners” (page 36) as they embark on their

#ComfortablyWild quest for the best glamping destinations

on earth and share their travel insights from 7 continents

and 91 countries…and counting!

EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER

Steve Dickinson

Mob: 027 577 5014

steve@pacificmedia.co.nz

ART DIRECTOR

Lynne Dickinson

design@pacificmedia.co.nz

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Media Kits and Statistics are available at any time upon request. Submissions are always

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advice, critique and invitations - send to Steve@pacificmedia.co.nz

All work published may be used on our website. Material in this publication may not be reproduced without permission. While the publishers have taken all reasonable precautions and made all reasonable effort to ensure the accuracy of material in this publication, it is a condition of purchase of this magazine that

the publisher does not assume any responsibility or liability for loss or damage which may result from any inaccuracy or omission in this publication, or from the use of information contained herein and the publishers make no warranties, expressed or implied, with respect to any of the material contained herein.

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When you hold Adventure Magazine, you're not just reading a publication, you're

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A MOVEMENT TO READ. EXPLORE. GROW.

A movement that champions sustainable practices, protects our environment, and

ensures the adventures we cherish today will thrive for generations to come.

Turn the page with us. Together, we can explore the world while helping sustain its

future—one tree, one issue, one adventure at a time.

'REAL REVIEW' - GEAR

Reviews come in all

shapes and sizes.

Then there is the REAL

REVIEW; where a writer

offers their candid

opinion. It's important to remember

that this represents just one person's

perspective, not necessarily the official

stance of Adventure magazine. But

that's precisely what makes it valuable:

it's a REAL REVIEW, unfiltered and

authentic.

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WORLD NEWS

ADVENTURE NEWS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

Read the full story on our website.

SMARTWATCH RECORDS THE FINAL MOMENTS WHEN BROWN BEAR KILLS A MAN

IN JAPAN

Like something lifted from a forensic crime

drama, the final minutes of a young hiker’s life

in northern Japan were pieced together from

data recorded on his smartwatch.

Twenty-six-year-old Sota Keisuke was killed

by a brown bear while trekking Mount Rausu

on Hokkaido in mid-August. An experienced

hiker, Keisuke was descending the 1,661-metre

peak with a companion when the attack

occurred. The companion, around 200 metres

behind, heard a scream and arrived moments

later to see a bear dragging Keisuke into the

forest. Bear spray had no effect.

With the family’s permission, investigators analysed Keisuke’s smartwatch. Movement data

became erratic around 11am, before showing the device being dragged through steep

terrain. Heart rate readings stopped 100 metres from the track. The following morning the

watch moved again, later found several hundred metres away.

Search teams located the bear still guarding the body. It was a female with two cubs. All

three were destroyed. Nearby, authorities identified a food cache mound

commonly used by bears. The incident has intensified debate in Japan over

human safety in bear country. Brown bear encounters are rising sharply,

driven by habitat loss, changing food sources and expanding human

recreation into wild areas. According to Japan’s Ministry of Environment, at

least 13 people have been killed and more than 100 injured in bear attacks

since April.

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SEARCH ENDS FOR MISSING AORAKI CLIMBERS AFTER AVALANCHE EVIDENCE

The search for two climbers missing on

Aoraki has been suspended after evidence

indicated they were caught in a major ice

avalanche on the Linda Glacier route.

The pair departed Tasman Valley car park

late last week, reached Plateau Hut, and set

out to summit on Saturday evening. When

they failed to return, the Department of

Conservation was notified on Monday.

Poor weather delayed aerial access until Tuesday. On Wednesday, a helicopter deployed a

RECCO search detector, identifying an area where climbing equipment was located. Police

say further assessment showed the climbers were likely swept up in a large icefall within a

known hazard zone, and the incident was not survivable.

DoC says conditions remain too unstable for ground access or recovery.

The exact location of the climbers has not been confirmed, and any recovery

would depend on improved conditions later in the season.

The deaths bring the South Island mountaineering toll to six in the past

month, following recent fatalities on Aoraki and Sabre Peak in Fiordland.

SAND AT 121KMH: A NEW SPEED RECORD

In the small but fiercely contested world of

sand skiing speed records, the bar has just

been pushed well past anything seen before.

French ski instructor Mahé Freydier has reset

expectations in a discipline that sits somewhere

between alpine racing and stupidity.

On 25 September 2025, Freydier pointed

his skis down a massive Peruvian dune and

accelerated to 121 kilometres per hour. That

figure eclipses the previous benchmark

recognised by Guinness World Records, set

in Namibia in 2010 at just over 92 kilometres

per hour. This was not snow, ice, or groomed

corduroy. It was loose sand, heat, and friction

doing their best to stop him.

Mahé Freydier,

resetting expectations

in a discipline that sits

somewhere between

alpine racing and

stupidity!

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WORLD NEWS

ADVENTURE NEWS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

Read the full story on our website.

Felix Georgii performs during the Slopestyle on the Edge at Sella Nevea, Italy

Image by Samo Vidic / Red Bull

EVEREST’S DIRTY TRUTH

For more than a decade, Nepal tried to solve one of high altitude mountaineering’s

dirtiest problems with a simple idea pay a bond, get it back if you bring your

rubbish home. On paper it sounded sensible. In reality it barely scratched the

surface.

Nepalese authorities have now confirmed the end of the Mount Everest waste

deposit scheme, admitting it has delivered little real change on the world’s highest

mountain.

Introduced eleven years ago, the rule required every climber

attempting Mount Everest to lodge a US$4,000 deposit. To get that

money back, climbers had to return at least eight kilograms of waste

from the mountain. The hope was that financial pressure would finally

slow the steady build up of rubbish on Everest, where estimates

suggest more than 50 tonnes of waste now sits frozen into the

landscape.

Summer

Essentials.

THE FUTURE OF WINTER RIDING

If winter riding has a future beyond start gates and scorecards, it looks a lot like this.

There are alpine lines that exist for style, and others that exist because walking away

would feel dishonest. High on the Sella Nevea Pass in Italy’s Julian Alps, four of the most

controlled riders in modern snow sports chose the second option.

In mid January, Felix Georgii, Max Hitzig, Ian Matteoli and Fabian Bösch stepped onto a

hand built ridge line that leaves no margin for bravado. Three hundred and fifty metres

long. Two thousand and fifty metres above sea level. Exposure dropping away on both

sides, narrowing in places to a single metre of snow.

Starburst Cathedral - Daily Tours

This was not a contest run or a headline grab. Eight features traced the natural spine of

the mountain. Rock step downs. Rails hung above empty air. Gaps cut between cliffs. A

long pump section that forced speed without allowing imbalance.

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These riders stripped competition away and focused on line choice,

timing and consequence. It is a reminder that progression in freeskiing

is no longer about adding spins. It is about choosing the right line, then

riding it properly.

SKIER FINDS BURIED VICTIM IN SWITZERLAND

A powder day in Engelberg escalated into a full emergency response after a skier

identified a person buried beneath fresh avalanche snow.

While skiing during heavy snowfall, Italian skier Matteo Zilla noticed what initially

appeared to be a skier struggling uphill without skis. As he approached, it became

clear that only a limb was visible above the surface. The rest of the body was

completely buried.

he area had received an estimated 40 to 50 centimetres of new snow, conditions

that significantly increase avalanche risk even within resort terrain. Zilla immediately

began digging, focusing on clearing the buried skier’s face and airway while calling

for help. Other skiers quickly joined the rescue, working together to free the victim.

Footage shared later shows Zilla speaking calmly to the buried skier while assessing

injuries and removing snow methodically. The skier was eventually freed without

serious injury.

The incident comes amid a severe avalanche season across Europe.

At least 17 people have died in avalanche incidents in the past month

alone, prompting repeated extreme risk warnings across the Alps. Several

fatal events were reported in France and Austria over the same period,

including one case where a skier was rescued alive but later died in

hospital.

AUSTRALIAN SKYDIVER SNARED BY PLANE WING IN RARE MID AIR TANGLE

A routine jump over Far North Queensland turned into a wild lesson in how quickly the

sky can turn on you. Freshly released footage from the Australian Transport Safety Bureau

captures the moment a skydiver’s reserve chute fired early and wrapped itself around the

aircraft wing during a jump.

The video shows the reserve handle catching on the wing flap as the jumper moved to exit.

In a split second the chute blasted open and dragged the skydiver backwards, leaving them

hanging from the tail by a mess of canopy and lines while the plane kept moving through

the air.

The jumper kept a

clear head, cut himself

free and dropped clear

before deploying safely.

He walked away with

only minor injuries and

one story that will be

retold in every skydive

hangar across Australia

for the next decade.

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Momentum Photo Quest

is open to professional

and amateur

photographers.

$10,000 in cash and prizes,

awarded across six categories

Momentum Photo Quest is a photography

competition built around one simple

concept. Real adventure carries

consequence.

It is not decoration. It is not theatre. It is

movement with intent, judgement under

pressure, and moments earned through

experience rather than luck.

This is a search for images that hold

weight. Frames that reflect commitment,

decision making and presence, uncertain

environments or the magic of a location.

Momentum rewards images that feel true

because they are true.

If your photography is built on

substance rather than spectacle, this is

where it belongs.

The competition offers over $10,000 in cash and prizes,

awarded across six categories and to one Overall Winner.

Categories include:

Category 1 / Forward Motion

Images that show progress into uncertainty. Movement with intent, timing under pressure and moments that cannot be

repeated.

Category 2 / Next Line

Emerging photographers whose work signals direction and potential. Fresh perspective backed by substance and instinct.

Category 3 / Impact

Frames that transmit force, intensity or consequence. Whether quiet or explosive, the image must be felt.

Category 4 / The People Behind It

Adventure seen through the humans who live it. Culture, preparation, connection and the reality behind the action.

Category 5 / Unbound

Creative approaches that push the medium without losing truth. Experimental work that serves the story. Yes, AI may be

used in this category.

Category 6 / Where We Play

Adventure unfolding in unexpected or overlooked environments. Place matters, but how it is used matters more.

Each category awards a Winner and Runner Up, with the Overall Winner selected from category winners.

Momentum is judged on credibility, judgement and honesty. Recognition matters as much as the prize pool.

Being named a Momentum Photo Quest winner signals work that stands up to scrutiny and time.

Entries must depict real moments of adventure or location. Excessive manipulation that alters the truth of the

scene is discouraged outside the Unbound category. Smartphone and film images are welcome if they meet

submission standards.

Entries are submitted online with full details including image context and capture information. Full rules,

technical requirements, deadlines and submission forms are available at the official website location.

Entries now open Momentum Adventure Photo Quest (zero entry fee)

10//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#254

one nz

godzone

back to the future

By Penny Simpson - Images by Alexandre Socci

Since its inception in 2012, One NZ GODZONE

has made a significant contribution to the global

realm of adventure racing, with the multi-day

expedition-length race reaching new heights in

competitor numbers and participation never seen

before in the sport's history.

When the race shut down in 2023, it was considered an

immense loss by the entire adventure racing community,

including those who had been intricately involved, such as

One NZ GODZONE event patron Steve Gurney.

“The scale of the event and its impact was remarkable,

touching lives well beyond the immediate participants,” says

Gurney. “Countless individuals had experienced satisfaction

and personal development by setting and accomplishing their

One NZ GODZONE goals and for many, the journey had

been transformative, instilling a sense of achievement and

fostering resilience.”

Beyond the direct participants, Gurney says, One NZ

GODZONE inspired a vast network of supporters, volunteers,

online dot-watchers and adventure communities.

“The secondary impact on these groups has been substantial,

creating an environment of encouragement and excitement

around each event. The influence of GODZONE extends far

and wide, with its positive effects felt across the globe.”

Gurney was not alone with his sentiments. Past GODZONE

competitors and high-profile sports representatives Richie

McCaw and Rob Nichol wanted the race to return, and

together with event director Adam Fairmaid, set about doing

just that. Enter the PURE ADVENTURE Charitable Trust.

“We all desperately wanted the event to continue -

particularly to inspire and create pathways for younger

people into the sport - so together with five other people we

formed the new PURE ADVENTURE charitable trust in late

2024 that was entrusted to bring the event back for Chapter

12 of One NZ GODZONE in 2025.”


Teams at sunset on Penk Ferny Stage 3 trek

Team AWS Legal Motueka High

Nate Alley and Regan McFall of Team Fuel Me on Wairau River packraft

Team Isabel Marlborough hike up off a river in the Waihopai Valley

Chapter 12: Brutal & Spectacular in Marlborough

Fast forward to 27th November 2025,

when 128 competitors raced off the

Ngākuta Bay start line for eight days of

an unbelievable, gruelling adventure

through Marlborough for Chapter 12 of

One NZ GODZONE.

“We aspired to bring it back in an

authentic way as an expedition race

of true global standing, and we think

Chapter 12 delivered on that promise

with a very tough 600+km race full of

epic stages, big country and dramatic

weather thrown in for good measure,”

says Rob Nichol.

The race attracted some of the world’s

best talent, including New Zealand’s

world champion adventure racers Chris

Forne, Sophie Hart, Simone Maier and

Sam Clark racing as team Rab.

Team Fear Youth, featuring Flynn

Mitchell, Molly Spark, Sam Anderson,

and Josh Pearson, entered having raced

GODZONE before and is currently the

hottest young team on the adventure

racing scene.

Newbies to multi-day expedition racing

were the AWS Legal Motueka High team,

featuring Tide Fa’avae, Louie Burger, Leo

Easton and Nika Rayward, having been

mentored by champion adventure racer

Nathan Fa’avae.

Local Nelson Vets Gearshop teammates

Brendan Hickman, Dave Quested,

Sakkie Meyer and Rachel Baker brought

seasoned GODZONE experience

alongside Queenstown’s Tiki Tour team,

featuring Tom Lucas, Eryn Cutler, Mike

Kelly, and Wellington's Alison Wilson.

One NZ GODZONE Chapter 12 proved

to be an extraordinary test of endurance,

determination, and teamwork says Nichol.

“We set a course through the rugged

expanse of Marlborough that pushed

the limits of adventure racing – it was as

brutal as it was spectacular, navigating

varied and challenging terrain. The

course included epic stages set against

the dramatic backdrop of New Zealand’s

big country, with unpredictable weather

adding an extra layer of difficulty.”

“From the outset, the race demanded

unwavering commitment, resilience,

and skill from each participant, with

teams facing relentless physical and

mental trials. It reaffirmed GODZONE’s

reputation for delivering some of the

toughest and most spectacular adventure

racing experiences on the planet.”

A fierce competitive battle developed at

the front of the field from day one, with

Fear Youth charging into the lead and

battling to maintain it for three straight

days of racing.

“It was fascinating to follow the

competition between teams Fear Youth

and Rab as they chased each other from

the get-go, pushing ahead of the entire

field and continually swapping the lead

position,” says Rob Nichol. “The stage

four mountain bike ride over the Acheron

Saddle saw Molly Spark of Team Fear

Youth get a puncture, which slowed their

pace and allowed Team Rab to get in

front. But by the time they got through

the canyoning and pack raft down the

Wairau River, it was neck and neck

between these two teams again.”

“However, a navigational error by Team

Fear Youth on the trek through the

Richmond Ranges on day four saw Team

Rab push forward, and from there they

never looked back. The dot watchers

following GPS tracking all around the

world could not look away from their

screens it was so compelling to watch.”

By day six of racing, the Marlborough

Sounds truly revealed their splendor,

and the gap was widening as leading

team Rab arrived at Elaine Bay, having

completed an exhausting all-night ride

along Nydia Archer's 80 km trail around

the Pelorus Sounds, demonstrating

impressive stamina and determination.

The team wasted no time at the transition

area to begin the second-to-last stage,

packrafting and trekking to Kenerpuru

Team Nelson Vets Gearshop canyoning at Chapter 12

14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#254 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//15

Teams ascending Mt Barometer

"The course

included epic

stages set

against the

dramatic backdrop

of New Zealand’s

big country, with

unpredictable

weather adding

an extra layer of

difficulty."


Chapter 12 Course Details

The One NZ GODZONE Marlborough course featured

nine distinct stages, each designed to highlight the

unique and varied Marlborough landscapes

Stage 1 31km: kayak from Ngākuta Point to Anakiwa,

trek over to Double Bay, packraft Pelorus Sound to

Havelock.

Teams mountainbiking towards the Acheron Saddle in Waihopi Valley

Head Camp. Team captain Chris Forne

discussed the team's flexible approach to

sleep strategy as they entered the final

stages of the race.

“We always play on how everyone’s

feeling and might have one hour of sleep

out there, but it depends on how long

the stage takes. Or we might do some

20-minute power naps – we don’t have

a set plan and will see how everyone is

feeling.”

On the chasing team, Fear Youth, Forne

said the young teams' duelling had been

impressive.

“We didn’t expect to have such close

competition from them. It’s really been

quite exciting and fun to have a bit

of a battle. Up until they made that

navigational mistake on the last trek, I

think they were slightly ahead of us for

some time. It will be interesting to see

how it all pans out.”

A weather bomb of significance hit

the race on day seven with a southerly

system sweeping across the Marlborough

region forcing the race organizers to take

precautionary action, putting the final

stages on hold until the front moved

through, resulting in all teams arriving at

the Picton finish line on day eight.

The first-place team, Rab, described the

race as the toughest GODZONE to date.

"My feelings, by comparison to other

GODZONE chapters, are that this was

probably the toughest course because of

the length and physical nature,” says team

captain Chris Forne. “ It was a big course

with a lot of weight carried over high

vertical areas, a lot of physical activity

on the ground, and that does wear you

down, so by the end, the team is moving

slower."

"I really enjoyed this course, there was a

good variety from travelling way out in

the Molesworth’s area, which was quite

special, then through a red hill area, down

the Pelorus- it was exciting to get out to

those places, having not done much in

this region before."

Second-placed Tiki Tour celebrated at the

finish line with great memories behind

them.

Mike Kelly said: Mt Barometer on the first

big trek stage was knarly. Then, on the

next big hike-a-bike over Acheron, we

probably underestimated the time out on

that stage, and the team got down to two

bottles of water. The race was starting

to bite us pretty hard, and Tiki Tour was

looking a bit sad by the time we got down

the Wairau River."

Third place went to the Nelson Vets

Gearshop led by veterinarian Brendan

Hickman of Nelson.

The top podium for the shorter length

Pursuit category went to the first-time

GODZONE team Kaikoura Adventure

U20, with the second-placed team being

Southland Tri 6+6, and the third-placed

team being Gizzy Gully Runners.

One NZ GODZONE spokesperson, Rob

Nichol, emphasized that the event’s

success was a testament to the dedication

and hard work of everyone involved.

“Our strategic partners included the

Marlborough District Council, local iwi,

DOC and the New Zealand Community

Trust, who were key enablers for the race

returning as they understood our vision

and the impact events like this have on

the wider community.”

“We hope the event has repaid that

investment by shining a light on

Marlborough as an incredible destination

to adventure through.”

“Access to private land is a privilege we

do not take for granted. We sincerely

appreciate each landowner who embraced

the opportunity to be part of staging

the event. Our commercial partners, the

teams, volunteers and supporters were all

critical to the success.”

He says the positive influence of One NZ

GODZONE is worldwide.

“Although it is difficult to measure the

extent of its reach fully, there is no

doubt that its effects are widespread and

continuing to grow. The event's legacy

endures through the many lives it touches

and the enthusiasm it generates within

the global adventure community. We are

excited to have got this renewed vigour

for the event and can’t wait to bring

together Chapter 13 in Feb-March 2027.”

Teams packing up rafts in Marlborough Sounds ready to trek

Winning Team Rab paddle Queen Charlotte Sounds final leg home

"this was probably the toughest

course because of the length and

physical nature" (winning Team, RAb)

Over Godzone our team consumed

over 100 Real Meals. They are delicious,

there is a wide range of flavours and

most importantly they are lightweight.

- Louie Burger

www.realmeals.co.nz

Stage 2 82km: mountain bike Havelock through

Waikakaho Cullen area to privately owned Avon Station

in the Waihopai Valley.

Stage 3 50km: trek Ferny Gair and Barometer Peaks,

down to Lake Alexander, Penk Hut, Knobs Creek and

back to Avon Station

Stage 4 144km: mountain bike over the 1566m Acheron

Saddle, through Mueller Station, into Wairau Valley to

finish at St Ronan’s Well on the St Arnaud Range.

Stage 5: two-hour guided canyoning

Stage 6 129km: packraft the Wairau River and trekpackraft

through the Richmond Ranges and Pelorus

River to Butchers Creek Flat—dark zones on rivers

from 8:45 pm to 5:45 am.

Stage 7 80km: mountain bike the Nydia Track to Elaine

Bay. Teams then start the long journey home with a

Stage 8: 69km: packraft and trek through the Outer

Sounds.

Stage 96km: Kenepuru Head, via Te Mahia Bay, to the

finish at Shelley Beach Reserve in Picton.

Real Meals for

Real Adventure


Sunset casts a shadow over the Copper Point summit plateau

climbing

in milford

sound

Overwhelming exposure, hungry sandflies,

and clouds of magic dust

By Derek Cheng

It says something about your destination when your essential piece of climbing kit is a pair

of socks with the toes cut off.

This is how you protect your ankles from sandfly

annihilation while scaling the gneiss-granite walls of

Copper Point, which rise 300m straight out of the fiord

in Milford Sound.

It’s a place of such beauty that, according to Māori

legend, the goddess Hinenui-te-Po created sandflies to

deter people from wanting to live there forever.

She probably wasn’t considering the possibility that,

one day, rock climbers would ascend the cliffs that

plunge into the glacier-carved fiord, but in the early

2010s, this outlandish prospect started to be explored.

It required a certain type of climber: someone with all

the usual curiosities of a route developer seeking new

lines, but also willing to withstand the challenges of a

place that sees seven metres of annual rainfall, violent

waves as the afternoon gusts sweep in, or out, of the

fiord, and enough sandfly-inflicted misery to dishearten

the brightest of souls on the sunniest of days. They'd

also need the financial means and the nautical

inclinations to have access to a vessel for the 10km trip

from Deepwater Basin.

Early explorers included climbing legends Dave Vass

and Richard Turner, but the first route fell, in late 2014,

to Wanaka-based stalwarts Bruce Dowrick, Tony Ward-

Holmes and Bryan Moore.

This was a period where I was based at Homer Hut,

where I happened to start chatting with Moore one

evening. He was wearing a warm and satisfied smile,

having just completed Ship of Fools (four pitches,

grade 19), a four-pitch route at Copper Point.

Moore gave me a handwritten topo map of the route,

and the following morning, my friend Sam and I drove

to Deepwater Basin, parked up, and asked some

friendly-looking fishermen about our chances of getting

a ride to a place we knew nothing about until the

previous evening. I had to admit I had no idea where

it was, but one of their eyes lit up after I showed them

the topo map, which indicated a ‘seal platform’.

It turned out to be one of the only parts of the

shoreline that doesn't dive vertically into the water.

Ross took us in his boat to the edge of the rocky

outcrop, and promptly hit reverse as we launched

ourselves towards a sloping, seal-laden surface. We

scrambled higher, avoiding any snarling beasts, waving

our thanks to Ross, and silently wondering if he would

keep his word to pick us up later.

New climbs are usually littered with crumbly,

dangerous rock, and layers of lichen and moss. But

the rock at Copper Point was surprisingly clean, with

amazing friction that clung to the sticky rubber soles of

our climbing shoes.

Four pitches of excellent slab climbing later, plus a few

fingery moves for good measure, we were relaxing

on a broad summit plateau, a place where few had

trodden, taking in a view that few eyes had witnessed.

The massive north face of Mitre Peak—first climbed in

the1965—rose more than a kilometre from our perch to

a summit ridge that tickled the sky.

Ross had said he'd collect us at 4pm, or 6pm, or 8pm,

depending on how good the fishing was.

High above the water on Ta Moko (25)


"Ta Moko takes a

line through the

overhanging wall

of orange that

gives Copper Point

its name. Powerful

and technical moves

take you up the wall

to a roof, and then

spectacularly through

it, as overwhelming

exposure gnaws at

your self-preservation

instincts."

We abseiled back to the seals and mulled over what to do

if our ride never materialised. Is it legit to hitch-hike from

a seal platform in a fiord? We needn't have worried. He

returned about 5pm and, again, expertly manoeuvred his

boat close enough for us to leap aboard.

By my next visit, in 2021, a plethora of routes had

been established up much steeper walls, including an

overhanging aréte known as Titanic, and an imposing

wall named Boaty McBoat Face, an overhanging stretch of

golden granite described as the best rock in the country,

if you're strong enough to climb it; the easiest of its three

routes is grade 27.

This was the first time we'd taken camping gear to stay for

a few days. A consistent breeze meant it was surprisingly

sandfly-free when we arrived, and my friend Tom and

I were promptly dropped at the base of Straight Out of

Lockdown (six pitches, grade 25).

So naively confident were we in the sandfly-repellent taste

of our blood that we left our toeless socks at camp. About

halfway up, having climbed a steep crack into a technical

face, we were being savaged.

As Tom climbed the glorious, overhanging crack to the

top, I willed myself to concentrate on my belaying duties

as a blur of sandflies feasted on my bare hands and

ankles. We still somehow managed a successful teamsend,

before following an established path through the

thick Fiordland bush, and past an infinity pool, back to the

beach camp.

The following days provided the premium Copper Point

experience: boat drop-offs to adventurous climbing on

bullet-hard stone high above the water (with toeless socks

to protect our ankles); daily dips into the infinity pool

during the descent; freshly-caught crayfish cooked over

the fire with garlic and butter.

And have you ever been mesmerised by your own pee?

Try relieving yourself into the edge of the fiord, triggering

potent sparkles of luminous phosphorescence.

It was a calm, moonless night when we loaded the boat

to make our way back to Deepwater Basin. As we sped

back to shore on a sea of calm serenity, the clear sky

above revealed the effervescent glitter of the Milky Way,

mirrored below our trusty vessel by a stream of fizzing

phosphorescence. It was as if we were riding a cloud of

shimmering magic dust.

Jan Vymetal approaches the roof of Ta Moko (25)


Clockwise from top left: A giant cruise ship passes Bruce Dowrick, one of the early developers of Copper Point, at the beach camp / Sandflies at Anita Bay / Copper Point

crayfish, caught fresh and best served over a fire / Derek Cheng with the catch of the day / A dive into the infinity pool during the hike down from Copper Point

Perhaps one day I'll have the means to take myself to Copper

Point, but in the meantime I remain reliant on the kind offer of

boat-endowed friends. This happened most recently on the eve

of 2026.

There were already more than a dozen climbers at the beach

camp at Copper Point as we floated by, so we opted to camp

near the outlet to the Tasman Sea, at Anita Bay. This is a

treasured spot for Ngāi Tahu, who sought and found pounamu

on these shores, using the harder pieces for tools and weapons,

and the softer, translucent ones for decoration.

We landed on a calm, windless afternoon, which meant a swarm

of sandflies. The best remedy, we decided, was to go fishing.

I soon learned how quickly situation-normal can erupt into

exhilaration; we went from zero to six fish in the space of a

few minutes, including a monster of a cod, who wriggled and

wrestled and almost managed to escape its fate: lime and chili

ceviche by the fire that evening.

We also took advantage of the flat sea and headed south along

the coastline, firstly to Poison Bay, and then to Sutherland

Sounds. It was, not unexpectedly, a wild and rugged part of the

country, perhaps looking much like any day in past millennia:

dense bush soaring out of the water, golden lichen on craggy

outcrops, stratified layers of rock stretched over stone arches

in the water. The only thing lacking, it seemed, was deafening

birdsong.

That I was witnessing a part of the country few have seen—just

like my first venture to the Copper Point summit plateau—was

not lost on me.

The following day, my partner Rachel and I were dropped at the

base of Ta Moko, a 300-metre high route with 10 pitches up to

grade 25. This time I was more prepared, with toeless socks over

my ankles and a bottle of 30% deet, which I applied frequently.

Climbers had now become a regular part of the tourism

attraction: every boat drifts under the wall as a voice on a

loudspeaker tells passengers to crane their necks skywards, and

spot the 'crazy rock climbers'.

Ta Moko takes a line through the overhanging wall of orange that

gives Copper Point its name. Powerful and technical moves take

you up the wall to a roof, and then spectacularly through it, as

overwhelming exposure gnaws at your self-preservation instincts.

When we topped out, onto the sublime summit plateau I'd first

visited more than a decade earlier, it still seemed like a place

where few had trodden. But by now, dozens if not hundreds

of climbers had basked in a similar experience: the fire-cooked

catch-of-the-day, the magic water shimmering in the moonlight,

and some of the best rock climbs in a place unlike anywhere

else in the world. It's also unlike other destinations in that

you'd happily shun a calm day for a strong breeze, which helps

disperse the inevitable mob of sandflies: created out of nothing

but to deter anyone from getting too comfortable.

Jon Sedon has knabbed several first ascents at Copper Point, including this one - Malibu (25)


"Jan Vymetal on

Freediver (27),

high above the

beach camp at

Copper Point"


crosbies hut

Stunning Sunsets Alongside a Scene of Tragedy

By Eric Skilling

Built during 2010, this shelter rewards visitors

with remarkable bird's-eye views from the

Coromandel Main Range – north across the

hump of The Camel towards Hauraki Gulf

and Waiheke Island, further west to the

Thames flatlands, and east to aptly named

Table Mountain and the Kauaeranga Valley.

After dark, the lights of Whitianga twinkle

desperately against the black expanse of the

Pacific Ocean.

The Track: Traditionally trampers don’t venture into

the Coromandel Range to meander along grassy flats

on gently rising glacial valleys, next to braided rivers

replenished by melting glaciers. Coromandel trails

circumnavigate or climb heavily forested volcanic ‘plugs’,

separated by steep V-shaped valleys freshly eroded by

frequent downpours. Expect patches of sticky mud in

winter.

More than six tracks wind their way to Crosbies Hut - all

labelled “difficult”. We chose Waiomu – at roughly 10km,

it seemed a perfect weekend hike in spring, ahead of

more challenging multi-day trips planned for the summer.

Beginning on a wide, gravelled track at the start was a

bit of a surprise. After crossing a small ford, the route

became a gently rolling bench track through a grove of

regenerating kauri trees. Banter flowed as we stopped

on the bridges to gaze down at the meandering Waiomu

Stream. Wooden steps marked the way ahead as soon as

we left the stream and the track began to climb steeply.

Although we were soon sucking in deep breaths, we all

seemed to feel the lift in spirit that comes with a good

workout in such glorious surroundings.

After crossing the 400metre elevation mark, the steps

ended abruptly and more familiar terrain – an endless

series of breath-shortening, leg-aching, but thankfully

brief climbs. Each rise was followed by slightly longer

uphill sections, before reaching the 700-metre contour

and junction with the Te Puru track. Masses of gnarled

tree-roots laced the track but pleasingly – almost no mud!

Nikki and Eric celebrating

Warming coffee as the sun rises next to Table Mountain Photo by Antz


"Gaps in the

vegetation gave

us glimpses of

the rocky peaks

and wide vistas

surrounding us."

Once on the ridge track, the large native podocarp trees thinned out,

replaced by shrubs, myrtles, and native grasses, hinting at the fact

that the area had once been cleared for farming. As expected, with

the ground levelling out, those infamous patches of Coromandel mud

slowed us down in places but were never near Rakiura proportions.

Gaps in the vegetation gave us glimpses of the rocky peaks and

wide vistas surrounding us. Within an hour or so we welcomed that

innocuous “Crosbies Hut – 10 minutes” sign, which points straight up

a wide, but demoralisingly steep, bank. Encouraged by the thought of

Nikki’s hors d’oeuvres of biscuits, humus, cheese and cherry tomatoes,

was enough motivation to put in the mahi, finishing the climb in a heartpounding

four minutes.

The Hut: Amazingly, this rugged, remote region was farmed back when

roads were almost non-existent. During the 1970’s, nearly a century after

the farm was abandoned, the woolshed on the Crosbies site became part

of the Coromandel Forest Park stock of tramping huts. Unfortunately,

the shed succumbed to cyclonic winds almost 40-years ago. Thankfully,

DOC built the warm, ten-bunk hut in 2010. Another ten raised and

levelled campsites have been erected in a sheltered clearing in the bush

below the hut.

The Tragedy: A sobering memorial to Urban Höglin and Heidi

Paakkonen has been placed in front of the hut. The visitors to New

Zealand went missing in 1989 while tramping in the area. Urban’s body

was found in the Wentworth falls area. Although Heidi’s body was never

recovered, her wallet and jacket were discovered alongside the trail

leading to Crosbies clearing. One can only imagine the grief experienced

by family and friends of the young couple. The murderer was convicted

and jailed for over twenty years.

The Comparison: Hiking to the 80-bed Pinnacles hut nearby is another

popular trip in the region, especially for school groups. Once again there

is a choice of several routes, but the most popular are the Webb Creek

and Billygoat tracks. The latter requires a river crossing within the first

few hundred metres, climbs tend to be steeper, and it is a few kilometres

longer than the Webb Creek route and takes approximately four hours.

There is very little mud on either path, however several small segments

have been washed-out, exposing slippery orange-yellow clay which

would require caution in rain.

Like Crosbies, accessibility is a big plus for this adventure. Another is

the wide, well signposted trails. Webb Creek takes approximately three

hours, has countless steps and bridges built with longevity in mind.

While neither trail is overly challenging, do not expect respite from the

constant uphill. Fortunately, there are distractions – lush native bush,

impressive rocky overhangs, and a beautiful waterfall perfectly placed

for a peaceful pause along the route.

Unlike Crosbies, Pinnacles hut has electric lighting, two large bunk

rooms and a cold shower. The kitchen is designed to cope when the 80

bunks are full. It offers gas fired stoves, a large indoor dining area and a

large deck with gas BBQ. Four campsites have been set up in a secluded

gully about 5 minutes’ walk below the hut. Both huts have a woodburner

stove, and a generous stock of firewood for those colder winter

visits.

Officially the summit of the 780-metre-high Pinnacles is a 50-minute

walk away, but one group of Year-12 school students reached the peak

within half an hour. The extra height does offer more expansive vistas

of the Pacific, and along the coastline to the south-east, than the scene

from Crosbie’s, however both are exceptional.

Late evening looking towards Table Mountain Photo by Antz


Catching the sunset from Crosbies Photo by Antz Friends we met at Crosbies

" I enjoyed their

company, and all

the people who

shared the hut

and campsite.

Crosbies is the

perfect prompt

to get fit for the

summer season."

Scrambling up the boulders on the final stretch to the summit

of the Pinnacles is the most challenging section of either route.

Despite DOC installing ladders and embedded rungs into the

granite on the steeper sections, this section is not recommended

for anyone who experiences vertigo – remembering that the

downhill is always trickier.

The Company: Long-weekends usually coincide with a full

hut, and this weekend was no exception. Two young students

from Auckland greeted us as we arrived – both experienced

trampers with fascinating stories. Later, a couple from Latvia and

another from Guildford arrived, and just before dark, more solo

trampers from Auckland wandered into the hut. Stories were

swapped, jokes told and general banter flowed as we enjoyed

each other’s company over coffee and a meal.

The Sunset: Pinnacles hut is surrounded by dense native bush,

creating a beautiful, secluded feeling. The downside is the need

to walk for 10 or 15 minutes to view a sunrise or sunset - the

former demanding rising in the dark, the latter returning in

the dark. Crosbies however, has views into tomorrow from the

clearing in front of the hut. Table Mountain blocks the sunrise

for most of the year, but sunsets are stunning.

After rugging up against the chilling wind which buffets this

exposed clearing, we left the warm confines of Crosbies hut to

enjoy a spectacular sunset. Wind-blown dust helped create a

kaleidoscope of colours across the sky as the sun disappeared

over the horizon. We lingered until the lights of Whitianga

township began to sparkle in the valley below us. Two of our

party joined the other trampers who had pitched tents in the

protected campsite area.

The Return: Accessibility promises proximity to civilisation.

Civilisation on this trip is the charming Thames township, found

minutes away from the road-end where our vehicle was parked.

During the 1860’s, Thames was a muddy gathering of miners,

foundries and other infrastructure, including a mining school,

associated with the gold-mining industry. Today, it promised

fresh hot coffee and warm food.

Sunrise the next day eluded us as it did not eventuate from

behind a screen of scudding cloud. Thoughts quickly turned to

the attraction of the promise of café’s hidden on the foreshore

somewhere below us. It was no surprise when the campers

in our group were under pressure to strike camp quickly, and

head down the hill.

Once off the ridge, quads and knees, already aching after

yesterday’s exertions, were tested again during the relentless

descent to the start of the wooden steps. Once there, pace

quickened and we were soon on the bench track alongside

Waiomu stream and out onto the road.

Deciding to venture out into this wilderness only came about

because another trip had been cancelled. Once again, as

so often happens, the trip exceeded my expectations. I am

grateful to Steve for the late offer to join him, and thanks

to Antz and Nikki for also responding to the late call up. I

enjoyed their company, and all the people who shared the hut

and campsite. Crosbies is the perfect prompt to get fit for the

summer season.

I prefer to use Jetboil, Merrell. Macpac, and Backcountry

Cuisine products


The Unlikely

Mountaineer

Short stop to get our breath back once on Pinnacle Ridge.

Te Heu Heu in the background.- Photo by Felipe Aguilera

Building fitness from the ground up

By Mariana (Maki) Shaw

The rock shifted under my boot.

It was May 2024. I was suspended on my first ever abseil, halfway down a cliff in the Southern

Alps, somewhere between Ball Glacier and Caroline Hut. I was exhausted from the previous day’s

hike up to the hut and already sore in places I didn’t know could hurt. As I felt the rock move, my

whole body froze up (even if I wasn’t technically standing on it). My mind split in two: one voice

screaming in panic, the other whispering logically: I'm safe, the rope will hold, the anchors are

secured, everything is good.

Logic was losing ground by the second.

Elke, my guide, waited calmly at the

anchors, watching the panic take over

me. I can’t remember if I managed to

speak or if she simply read the terror in

my body, but she began explaining the

safety systems, talking me through each

piece of gear and how it would hold. I

could barely respond. I couldn't breathe,

my legs were shaking, and tears began

running down my face. I simply couldn’t

move. I was the last person descending

and everyone else was waiting below.

Once she realised I was truly stuck,

Elke prepared to come down to me, still

speaking softly. She explained that she

could perform a rescue manoeuvre and

get us both safely to the bottom. That

helped, and I could breathe again, but

once the fear eased, embarrassment took

its place. Hanging helplessly in a harness

is not where you want your body to shut

down.

We finally reached the ground, but I felt

completely deflated.

By the time we made it back to the

valley a couple of days later, something

else had taken root: fury. Not at the

mountains, not at the situation, but at the

fact that my body wasn’t ready to let me

enjoy this world I had just discovered.

Because the truth was, I loved it. Even

through the pain, the fear, and the

awkward footing up Ball Pass, I was

hooked.

"the truth was,

I loved it. Even

through the pain,

the fear, and the

awkward footing

up Ball Pass, I was

hooked."

That anger became fuel.

I’m originally from a small town in the

middle of vast (and flat) agricultural

land. That means: no national parks,

no hiking, no mountain-related outdoor

activities. I first started hiking when I

moved to New Zealand back in 2016, but

only on well-formed tracks. Let’s just say

that my outdoor (and fitness) experience

was… limited. I literally didn’t know

what was out there.

I had booked that trip with Alpine

Recreation because I had felt the socalled

“call” from the mountains. I did

love hiking, and I always loved a high

viewpoint. A few blockbuster mountain

documentaries came out that year (14

Peaks and the sort) and suddenly I just

needed to be there myself. I knew it

wasn’t something I could just show up

and do (at least I was sensible about

that), so I booked a mountaineering

course. And I trained for it, or so I

thought. My research proved to be

completely off, and I realised that this

was a serious and incredibly rewarding

pursuit, one that a couple of long hikes

would not prepare me for.

I returned home from the Southern Alps

back to the relatively low-lying ground

in Tauranga and suddenly training wasn’t

optional anymore. It became essential.

I joined a climbing gym, started reading

books like Training for the New Alpinism

(which I 100% recommend), and began

working out consistently for the first

time in my life. I had run and done

yoga in the past, but had never built

real strength. Then, everything hurt.

Everything was new. But slowly things

started to shift.

Mt Tasman peak from Caroline Hut. My new definition of visual privilege! Photo by Maki Shaw


The whole crew staring at the goal for the day: Ringatoto Peak, with Girdlestone Peak standing in the back. Image by Maki

"I didn’t become mountain-fit overnight. It took heaps of

consistent sessions...and accepting that strength and

confidence in the outdoors had to be earned."

A few months in, I realised I still had

no idea how to structure proper gym

training, so I booked a personal trainer

who sorted me for a decent workout.

I started going to the gym three times

a week - me! Someone who had never

dared walk through those doors!

When you want something this bad, life

has its own way of taking you there (hint:

it’s never straightforward). I was on the

lookout for anything that would keep

motivation high and take me back to the

mountains, and I applied to join an all

women expedition in the Peruvian Andes

as a photographer. The trip was starting

less than 6 months from the time I

applied - and I’d only know for sure if my

application had been successful 4 months

in advance.

I knew the chances of getting the job

were slim, but that pushed me to a whole

different level of commitment. If I got it,

I had to be more than ready, and there

was no time to lose. I started working

closely with Savanna Ashley, a climber and

trail runner herself. With Sav’s guidance,

training became extremely targeted rather

than… well, chaotic. I had a clear goal: be

ready for the expedition. Life knows better,

and I didn’t get chosen for this round (I’ll

have to persevere for next year).

One year after that first terrifying abseil,

I finally found myself in the mountains

again. I joined the NZ Alpine Club, met

a few people online and signed up for a

winter mission to Ringatoto summit via

East Ridge (Ruapehu), a Grade I route. My

partner and I had to turn back halfway

and let the rest of the group go ahead.

My engine wasn’t ready yet, and I was

mentally beating myself up for trying to

match people with years more experience

(read: fitness experience).

I turned that setback into fuel as well. Sav

refocused my programme on cardio and

endurance, and I slowly started feeling

stronger, not just physically but mentally.

A couple of months later, I returned to

Ruapehu, this time via Pinnacle Ridge

toward Te Heu Heu. It was brutally

hard and pushed every limit I had, but

I reached the summit. That trip taught

me a lot about snow conditions, terrain,

decision-making, and patience, but most

importantly it showed me all the progress

I had made.

I came home realising that,while there

was still a long way to go, my body was

finally capable of handling a full mountain

day. And that was only the beginning.

I didn’t become mountain-fit overnight. It

took heaps of consistent sessions, learning

how to move better, and accepting that

strength and confidence in the outdoors

had to be earned. But coming back and

finally feeling capable changed everything.

Not everyone starting out in

mountaineering needs to be an elite

athlete (I’m definitely not), but a

minimum level of fitness gives you

freedom, especially if you didn’t grow

up outdoors and scrambling over rocks

doesn’t quite come naturally (yes, I’m

jealous of those people). Fitness buys

you time, safety margins, clearer decisionmaking

and the chance to enjoy where

you are instead of just trying to wing it,

one struggling breath at a time.

I’m still learning. I’m still awkward with

ropes, and abseiling is something I’m

working hard to make peace with. But

change takes time and I’ve learnt to love

the journey to get there.

My next mission is coming up, heading to

Arthur’s Pass. I know the mountains will

push me again, but now I am ready for

that. With fitness no longer holding me

back, I have the mental space to face the

real challenges of mountaineering, and to

do it as safely and joyfully as I can, as it’s

meant to be.

Let us take you on

a great adventure...

NOTHING BUT THE RUN

www.alpinerecreation.com

www.merrell.co.nz

New Zealand river guide Josh Scarlet from the South Island.

kiwis on the Babine

a Serenade from the First Nation’s People of the Skeena

Words by Sean Kelly - Photos by Vancouver paddler Gabor Dosa

For me, whitewater rafting in British Columbia’s remote Babine River had an extra perk: grizzly bear viewing.

My recent paddling trip down that

waterway through Canada’s Babine

River Corridor Park confirmed what I

had heard years ago from a kayaker on

the Middle Fork of the Salmon River in

Idaho.

“The Babine is a great run,” he said. “It

has a rapid called Grizzly Drop. The

bears come out and fish for salmon when

they come up to spawn. You can see

them when you paddle by.”

Since then, it was something I’ve wanted

to check out. I got my chance last month.

Canadian Outback Rafting had one spot

left for a mid-August multi-day trip and I

jumped on it.

There were seven paddlers on the trip,

three Canadians and three Americans

from the West Coast. I came the furthest

from my home in Bethesda, Maryland,

which was 3,050 miles away from our

“put in” at the fish counting station just

below Lake Babine.

This wilderness corridor park is

about 38,000 acres and was created

to protect the Babine River, a 60-mile

long whitewater gem that drains Lake

Babine. Located about halfway between

Vancouver and Alaska, the provincial

park is full of wildlife and home to more

than 100 grizzly bears.

“There is a high chance of potentially

dangerous bear encounters at this park,”

British Columbia’s safety information

warns. “If you visit this area, you do so at

your own risk.” Lead guide Keaton Wilson

was emphatic about being “bear aware”

at all times. It was important advice. Bear

spray became part of our daily life.

There was a cool drizzle as we set off on

our six-day, five-night rafting excursion. I

knew beforehand that it was going to be

cold and wet and it was. It rained on and

off the whole time. We had little sunshine

to enjoy, maybe a total of 16 hours. As

an added challenge, campfires to warm

yourself at the end of the day were strictly

prohibited due to the risk of wildfires.

Still, none of us really minded the chilly,

wet weather. We dutifully donned our

cold wetsuits, still damp (maybe soaked,)

each morning. But any discomfort

was quickly forgotten as soon as we

paddled through the first rapid and

became immersed in the scenery. And

at lunchtime, our guides offered hot

chocolate and steamy chicken soup to

warm us up.

Each day, we were escorted by

impressive birds of prey, mostly huge

bald eagles. They would drop from

their riverside perches and glide down,

stretching their impressive wings.

Anticipation was in the air, literally. The

birds knew the salmon were coming.

On the fourth day, we descended

through Grizzly Drop, the first of three

class-four rapids. Here the river narrowed

between high canyons and picked up

speed. We paddled through with energy

and emerged into calmer water. That’s

when we saw him.


Crew beforehand at put-in below Lake Babine, British Columbia

New Zealand River guide Mila Botica from the South Island

Crew afterwards in Smithers, British Columbia

Canadian Outback Rafting lead guide Keaton Wilson in the galley

“this river hasn’t been commercially rafted in three years”

“The grizzlies around here aren’t used to seeing humans in boats.”

A yearling with a beautiful brown coat

was on the trot, coming toward us. He

was fishing along the water’s edge. The

bear dove into the river, completely

submerged, but then surfaced empty

handed. A second later, it did another

surface dive and came up with fish in its

mouth. As it rose it saw us, scrambled to

shore, and disappeared in haste upwards

through the dense ferns.

“This river hasn’t been commercially

rafted in three years,” Wilson said,

explaining that past low water levels have

been an issue. “The grizzlies around here

aren’t used to seeing humans in boats.”

Our entourage consisted of three rafts.

All seven of us paddlers and Keaton were

in the same boat and there were two

oar boats behind, piled with all of our

gear, camping equipment and food, each

helmed by a guide.

Soon “Sphincter 1,” the second class-four

rapid, was upon us. Whitewater waves

bounced off the cliffsides and came at

us. I took one broadside that completely

drenched me, sending me from cold to ice

cold, before I settled back to cold again.

We paddled out into calmer water and

there she was. A grizzly mother with baby

in tow, walking casually up river towards

us. “She’s got a cub,” I whispered. Our

boat went quiet. No paddling. We drifted

closer. Then she saw us.

Again, rather than challenge us, the

mother grizzly turned and sprinted up the

mountainside followed at some distance

by her young cub. There on the ridge,

as her baby continued climbing toward

her, she stood and watched us raft by.

The bear looked confused. A line came to

mind from the movie “Butch Cassidy and

the Sundance Kid:” “Who are those guys?”

Before running the final class-four rapid,

dubbed “Sphincter 2,” Keaton pulled us

out of the swift moving river into an eddy

for a scout. He was constantly checking

his maps and scouting ahead to make

certain we were as safe as possible.

While he was tying off our raft, guide

Mila Botica, from the South Island of New

Zealand, navigated her oar boat beside us

as she prepared to help scout. She leaped

off her boat to steady it. As she did, she

sank into a deeper pool than expected,

chin deep. It caused her to lose her

grip on the rope holding her raft and it

began to float back into the current. Mila

couldn’t reach out in time to stop it.

It picked up speed as the current took it

and the raft floated towards the first drop

into “Sphincter 2.” We watched helplessly.

It looked like one of our gear boats was

going down the class-four rapid by itself.

Then, to my surprise (and I’m certain

everyone else’s too), Mila courageously

began to swim after her boat.

It seemed impossible that she was going

to catch it in time, but she kept on. She

did catch it, but not until it had started

dropping down into the whitewater. The

5’10” guide in her early 20s, was big

shouldered and strong, began to hoist

herself up and into the boat, pulling

hard. I saw her slowly rise from the water

and launch herself onto the raft as it

disappeared into the rapid.

Keaton was already on the move to help.

He tossed his rope to fellow paddler RJ

Walsh, 30, who was paddling with his dad,

70. RJ leaped out of our boat and held us

steady as our guide took off down river.

He was quickly followed by fellow guide

Josh Scarlet, also from the South Island of

New Zealand. Josh had secured his gear

boat in a nearby eddy and sprinted by

on wet river rocks as though it were flat

pavement. He was holding a rope bag in

one hand.

There we sat, stunned. Our guides were

gone. No one said a word. We were

in the middle of nowhere and the well

being of Mila, who had just done the

unthinkable, was still a mystery. After

several minutes, Josh returned and gave

us the good news. Mila had managed to

find her seat in the raft and port it safely

down below.

We all exhaled, now that everyone was

okay. But I quickly learned there was

more to the tale.

As Keaton took his post in our raft, he

looked a little piqued so I asked him if he

was okay. “I just saw the biggest grizzly

I’ve ever seen in the Babine corridor,” he

answered. “After I made sure Mila was

okay, I turned around to come back and

there he was. We just looked at each other.

Then it ran.” Just another day at the office!

His equanimity, like Mila’s

resourcefulness, saved our trip and made

our final day as perfect as it could be.

RJ and his dad, Bob, did back flips off

our raft and the sun came out as we

left the Babine and entered the Skeena

River. Mountain ranges, dotted with

patches of snow and frozen lakes, rose

in all directions. Rainstorms swept across

valleys in the distance.

When we pulled out in Hazelton, British

Columbia, we were greeted by a group

of First Nation villagers. Their ancestors

settled here 7,000 years ago. We thanked

them for allowing us to raft their rivers

and promised that we had left them as we

had found them.

And as we prepared to depart, all nine

of them, looking up from the banks of

the Skeena, began a song in their native

tongue to send us on our way. The

touching tribute was an unforgettable

moment in an unforgettable trip.

If only I had known the words.


Breaking

the

Granite

Ceiling

Sophie Digiulian - Image by Christian Pondella / Red Bull

Sasha DiGiulian on El Cap

Sasha DiGiulian has just done what no woman has ever done on El Capitan. She

freed Platinum. Forty pitches. Three thousand feet. The longest free route on the wall.

Twenty-three days on the granite. Nine of those weather-locked to a portaledge while

November storms unloaded rain, snow, and ice down the face. Most teams wait for

summer windows. DiGiulian fought through a month of winter.

She led 27 of 40 pitches including every crux.

Six pitches at 5.13. Twenty-three at 5.12. No

hitchhiking crack systems. This is facing climbing;

thin, technical, unforgiving. Platinum carries the

heaviest bolt count on El Cap. Footwork must be

perfect. Conditions need to be clean and dry. She

had neither.

Established over eight years and rarely repeated,

Platinum has only seen three successful teams

before this. DiGiulian’s send is number four and

the first female free ascent. A milestone for modern

big wall climbing and one achieved in conditions

that should have shut her down.

Prep was long. Three seasons rehearsing the lower

two thirds and working sequences on rappel. The

real push began 2 November 2025. Ground up.

No retreat to the valley. Then the weather arrived.

Atmospheric rivers rolled over the Sierra and

progress slowed to metres. Icefall rattled the wall.

Runoff poured through the cruxes. She stayed put

and waited it out.

When the sky finally cleared, the rock was still

running wet. She fell. Pulled the rope. Went again.

No bypass. No tension tricks. Every crux climbed

free. On 26 November she topped out into melting

snow and empty air below. A clean summit. A

historic ascent.

Her own take was direct. The climb scared her.

The storm nearly broke her. But she kept tying in.

Kept leading. “Pitch by pitch,” she said. Fear never

outran commitment.

This ascent matters. Platinum is one of the longest

and most technical routes ever freed on El Capitan.

DiGiulian did it in winter storms where success

depended more on resilience, precision, and

mental endurance than sunshine optimism. It

moves the benchmark.

Sasha DiGiulian is no stranger to big numbers.

First woman to climb 5.14d with Pure Imagination.

More than fifty 5.14s. First female ascent of Rayu

in Spain. First free ascent of Yosemite’s Misty Wall.

Founder of Send Bars in Colorado. But Platinum

raises the bar again.

Forty pitches. Twenty-three days. Nine in a storm.

One woman on the sharp end.

This is the kind of climbing that rewrites what is

possible.

Sasha DiGiulian climbs the Platinum route on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, California. Photo by Pablo Durana / Red Bull


"Platinum is one of

the longest and most

technical routes ever

freed on El Capitan.

DiGiulian did it in winter

storms where success

depended more on

resilience, precision, and

mental endurance than

sunshine optimism."


Image by Christian Pondella / Red Bull

On the road in Alaska with Go North - image by Steve Dickinson

vanlife

ALASKA

Fairbanks

Anchorage

YUKON

CANADA

Whitehorse

Seattle

USA

the purest way to travel

Seeing a country by RV or campervan is one of the

purest ways to travel. It slows you down just enough

to notice the details, while giving you the freedom to

change plans the moment the weather, light, or mood

shifts. You wake where you stopped, make coffee

with a view that no hotel could offer, and carry your

sense of home with you as the landscape transforms

outside the windscreen. From long, empty highways

to quiet backroads, the journey itself becomes the

destination.

That feeling is universal, whether it’s rolling through Alaska

with GoNorth, where distances are vast and the wilderness feels

genuinely untamed, or tracing the mountains, lakes, and coasts of

New Zealand’s South Island with Mad Campers. In Alaska, a camper

lets you linger where wildlife appears unexpectedly or where the

light stretches late into the night. In New Zealand, it means pulling

into a DOC campsite beside a river, waking to birdsong, and

driving a few hours later into a completely different world of alpine

passes, rainforests, or surf beaches.

But that freedom only works when the vehicle supports the way

you actually travel. Hiring a campervan looks simple. Pick a van.

Pick a date. Hit the road. That is exactly where most people

go wrong. Size, layout, weight, tyres, self-containment, and

insurance all shape how far you go, how relaxed you feel, and

how spontaneous you can be. A well-chosen van fades into the

background, letting the country take centre stage. A poorly chosen

one quietly limits your options.

Travel by campervan isn’t about having everything. It’s about

having just enough, moving easily, and letting the road decide what

comes next. When you get it right, the country reveals itself mile by

mile, and the journey becomes the accommodation.

tips

• Size matters (smaller maybe better): Narrow, windy

roads and small campsites reward compact vans.

• Usability over features: Simple layouts beat long

feature lists. Beds, kitchens, and storage should be

quick and easy to use.

• Ease of daily routines: Think about where you put

shoes, wet gear, rubbish, and groceries. Small design

details affect comfort every single day.

• Check real self-containment: Not all certified vans are

equal. Look at water capacity, toilet type, and day-today

practicality.

• Understand the insurance: A cheap daily rate can

hide a huge excess. Check what’s truly covered,

especially gravel, wind, and tyres.

• Watch the weight: Overloaded vans handle poorly

and burn more fuel. Pack light and know the van’s

limits.

• Inspect the tyres: Good tyres matter on rough roads.

Ask when they were replaced and if the spare is

usable.

• Power setup: Check how the house battery charges

(solar, driving, mains). A weak setup means

constantly chasing powered campsites instead of

stopping where you want.

• Heating and ventilation: Nights can be cold and

condensation is real. Diesel heaters and good airflow

matter more than fancy extras.

• Fridge performance: Make sure it runs properly off

the battery and stays cold on hot days. A struggling

fridge quickly dictates your daily driving.

• Ground clearance: Low vans scrape on gravel roads,

ferry ramps, and DOC sites. A little extra clearance

gives more confidence off sealed roads.

• Roadside support: Breakdowns happen. Know what

help is included, how far it extends, and how quickly

you can reach someone.

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//47

travelling

through

the country

not over it

Images compliments of Mad Campers

I picked up the keys in Christchurch with a simple plan: go South.

No bookings. No fixed route. Just a compact camper, a rough sense

of direction, and the idea that New Zealand still reveals more when

you move through it on your own terms.

The van was from Mad Campers. Campers are

a practical way to see the country, with a little

touch of luxury exactly where needed.

Christchurch as a region drops away quickly.

Soon, farmland that stretches from the outskirts

of Christchurch starts to give way slowly, to the

approaching hills and the scale builds quietly

before erupting all at once. Then the Southern

Alps rise without warning, dramatically

reminding you that New Zealand may not be

vast in distance, but it can be steep in intent.

Moving into the Arthur’s Pass region boasts one

of the South Island’s most dramatic and varied

landscapes and was probably my favourite

stretch of road. It had everything from broad

open valleys with braided rivers that made for

great camping spots, to numerous peaks, better

known in winter for their club ski fields, with

quaint little “towns” dotted along the way. It is

also the quickest way to access the infamous

West Coast. These central ‘Pass’ pathways

should not be rushed, they are heavy in history

and dramatic scenery, and they zigzag across

the South Island.

Arriving on the West Coast felt like stepping

back to a quieter more regional time in New

Zealand. It is less polished, more earthy, more

original. We walked long stretches of beach

near Hokitika, where driftwood piles up like

natural sculptures, the township is super

popular but has a real local feel. Its windswept,

raw but quaint. What seems just up the road

put you into dense forest, where short tracks

disappear almost immediately into dense bush.

These narrow, rough roads thread through this

landscape that is home to glaciers and some of

the world’s best hiking trails.

To head back east you travel through Haast

Pass. It is less about the drive than what sits

alongside it so be prepared to stop often. Short

walks, repeated pull-offs, sections explored

on foot rather than behind glass. The real

reward is in taking your time remembering

the experience is in the journey not the

destination.

By the time we reached Wanaka, it felt right

to pause. The town is perfect for restocking:

food, coffee, fuel, and the little extras that keep

the next few nights on the road simple. Even

practical stops have their own rhythm, and

Wanaka’s lakefront offers a calm counterpoint

to the mountains that just came before.

"Just a

compact

camper,

a rough

sense of

direction,

and the

idea

that New

Zealand

still

reveals

more when

you move

through

it on your

own terms."


NZ's most innovative Campervan Rentals!

WWW.MADCAMPERS.CO.NZ | 0800 GO MAD NZ

But a campervan is not really about gift shops and coffee it is about being

on the road the exploring. Within a few hours the landscape opened again.

Distances stretch, mountains give way to low hills, and driving became simple

but absorbing. One evening we climbed a low, unmarked track above a wide

valley, nothing dramatic, just enough height to read the land before dropping

back to camp. The night was still, and without signal, with only cooking,

eating, and sleeping to occupy us, perfect.

"get a campervan, point it south, and see what happens when

you stop letting someone else decide where you sleep."

roamer caravan

Of note is Lake Pukaki, at the foot of Aoraki/Mount Cook. Mist edged the

shoreline, steam rose from the water, and Aoraki loomed across the lake,

snow-capped and sharp. We drove to the end of the road and made coffee,

just steps from the start of the Hooker Valley Track, where blocks of ice bob

in the water, an easy walk with suspension bridges and glacier views. For

anyone wanting more, steeper routes like Sealy Tarns or the Tasman Glacier

viewpoints offer a push into the alpine valleys.


We took the route back toward Christchurch via the Mackenzie Country. Wide

tussock plains stretched to distant mountains, lakes mirrored the sky, and the

light shifted constantly across the valleys. This unique region offers so much

variety, amazing views, stunning lakes and Instagram-worthy shots seemingly

around every corner.

Aotearoa doesn’t reward excess, it rewards attention. A campervan isn’t

about luxury or escape, it’s about access; to short walks, informal stops,

early mornings, and the freedom to change direction, and follow the

weather without penalty. Mad Campers fits that ethos: vehicles built to be

used, enough comfort to stay out longer but never so much that the journey

becomes about the van itself.

On handing the keys back in Christchurch with dust on the tyres and a

camera full of unplanned moments, this trip felt right, it ticked all the boxes.

A South Island campervan trip should be shaped by conditions, influenced by

judgment, and specific to the people making it.

If you want New Zealand predictable and pre-arranged, there are easier ways

to see it. If you want it as it unfolds, weather, roads, decisions, and all, a

campervan still makes more sense than anything else.

For more information go to wwwmadcampers.co.nz and to own your own

campervan or caravan get in touch with the team at www.madrv.co.nz

Hilux 4x4 hunter

own your own

Adventure

without limits

Explore the range of Mad RV

Campers and Caravans

Roamer 16 Caravan

Roamer 19 Caravan

Roamer 21 Caravan

Hilux 4x4 Seeker

Hilux 4x4 Hunter

madrv.co.nz

the road north

allowing plenty of time for the journey

We didn’t arrive in North America with a fixed route or a checklist of highlights. The objective was

straightforward: cover ground and allow enough time for the journey to dictate its own rhythm.

"Somewhere along that road,

the focus shifts to conditions

rather than destinations. That

shift is difficult to engineer

and impossible to rush. But you

start to live the clique – its

about the journey not the

destination."

Image by Filip Kulisev

Seattle was a practical starting point rather than a destination.

We collected a GoNorth camper there, a fully self-contained

Four Wheel Drive built for northern conditions, and headed out

within hours. Urban traffic gave way quickly to forest, water,

and long road corridors that signalled the scale of what lay

ahead.

From Washington we travelled north to Vancouver Island,

then re-entered Canada and pushed through British Columbia.

The geography shifted fast. Mountains rose directly from the

coastline. Rivers ran heavy with glacial melt. Even on major

highways there was a consistent sense of space, wide shoulders,

frequent pull offs, and the freedom to stop without explanation.

That flexibility became a defining feature of the trip. With

water, power, heating, and sleeping onboard, there was no

pressure to reach towns or book accommodation. Weather

patterns influenced our direction more than plans. If you

wanted to stop you just stopped. In three weeks we used

a formal campground once. Most nights were spent parked

beside rivers, below ice fields, or near empty lakes.

North of Prince George we turned onto the Stewart Cassiar

Highway. The change was immediate. Services thinned out.

Traffic dropped away. Internet evaporated. Wildlife sightings

became routine rather than noteworthy. Bears, foxes, and

moose, even the odd porcupine waddling appeared along the

roadside with little warning.

This section of the journey reinforced the practical advantages

of travelling this way. Distances are long on the Cassiar. Fuel

planning needs to be considered. Weather can change quickly.

A vehicle designed for all temperatures, rough surfaces, and

full independence removed friction from decision making and

allowed attention to stay on the landscape rather than logistics.

As we entered the Yukon, mobile coverage disappeared

entirely. Initially it was noticeable. Within days it became

irrelevant. Without fixed schedules, days were shaped by light,

weather, and energy levels. Some days involved long drives.

Others were spent barely moving at all.

Crossing into Alaska felt less like a border crossing and

more like a continuation of the same terrain, just on a larger

scale. The stretch between Glennallen and Palmer stood out

in particular, with mountain ranges closing in on both sides, glaciers

spilling down from high ridgelines, and wide open sky dominating

the frame. It is a landscape that resists compression. Photographs and

phone video struggle to convey depth or distance. You have to stand in

it, experience it, it just makes you feel small.

Somewhere along that road, the focus shifts to conditions rather

than destinations. That shift is difficult to engineer and impossible to

rush. But you start to live the clique – its about the journey not the

destination.

Late in the trip, an unplanned convergence tied things together. A band

we had been listening to while driving was playing near Denali. We

were close enough to attend, so we did. Denali itself was fully visible

that day, a rare occurrence according to locals. That night, under

continuous daylight, we stood outside a small venue with music drifting

into the open air and no urgency to leave.

By the time we returned the camper to GoNorth, thousands of

kilometres had passed beneath its tyres. The vehicle was not the subject

of the journey, but it made the journey viable by removing constraints

rather than adding complexity.

Image by Eduard Gossner WindsMedia


"The road north

reduces noise,

removes urgency,

and leaves you

with room to

think."

That is what this type of RV travel does,

it makes it simple, easy, you end up

celebrating the journey not the hotel, air

BNB or motel in the next town. You simple

think, ‘wow this is cool’ lets stay here, and

you can.

What came home with us was not a

collection of highlights, but a recalibrated

sense of pace. Extended exposure to space,

distance, and silence changes how decisions

are made. It changes what feels necessary.

The road north does that quietly. It reduces

noise, removes urgency, and leaves you with

room to think. In travel terms, that may be

its most valuable offering.

Why GoNorth Car & RV Rental?

For over 25 years, GoNorth has been helping

customers to explore the North at their own

pace. For cruising scenic highways or venturing

down less-traveled gravel roads, their fleet

provides the right vehicle. GoNorth rents truck

campers, motorhomes, 4x4 SUVs, trucks and

vans with no road restrictions – driving on

gravel roads is permitted. It is the only rental

company in Alaska that rents truck campers

and allows driving all vehicles (RVs and cars)

on all public roads. Rental stations are located

in Anchorage, Fairbanks, Whitehorse and

Seattle with one-way rentals possible between

all of them.

GoNorth RV fleet:

• 4x4 Truck Camper suited to drive gravel

roads, and yet the luxury of modern civilization

in your camper (including full bathroom, fridge

and freezer, and stove/oven).

• 4x4 Scout Adventure Truck Camper designed

for adventurers and outdoor enthusiasts – and

perfect for boondocking (off-grid camping).

• Motorhome MC4 more comfort, and the

right vehicle if you don’t plan on driving much

gravel roads.

• Motorhome MC6 the slightly larger

motorhome, also equipped with all the

amenities needed for a comfortable adventure

in Alaska and the Yukon, including but not

limited to a full bathroom, fridge and freezer,

and stove.

Gravel road permission is included with Truck

Campers. For Motorhomes, there is a surcharge

for specific gravel roads.

www.gonorth-alaska.com


Anne how would you describe Mike? Larger than life, fearless,

funny, curious, champion of the underdog, and resourceful to

the max. I call him Mike-Gyver, because he can make things

work, even in the most ridiculous scenarios.

The World's Longest Honeymooners, Mike & Anne Howard, in the Namib Desert - All photos by @HoneyTrek

honeytrek

a life built on curiosity

Born from a honeymoon that refused to end, HoneyTrek is

proof that adventure can be a long game. Fourteen years, 91

countries and countless border crossings after selling their

possessions and walking away from corporate careers, Mike

and Anne Howard are still moving. Not chasing escape, but

designing a life built on curiosity, connection and earned

experiences. From National Geographic titles like Ultimate

Journeys for Two to their cult following for Comfortably

Wild, , HoneyTrek sits at the intersection of romance,

resilience and responsible travel. This is not influencer gloss.

This is what commitment looks like when adventure leads

the marriage.

"HoneyTrek." The term was coined by newlyweds Mike and Anne to

describe their honeymoon, a multi-year adventure around the world, and

a marriage built on epic life experiences. They sold their belongings and

quit their jobs to pursue their dream, and 14 years and seven continents

later, they are still trekking around the planet and have built a career

in travel storytelling, @HoneyTrek. They wrote a National Geographic

book on couples' adventure travel, Ultimate Journeys for Two, and are

currently working on the second edition of their award-winning glamping

book, Comfortably Wild, this time about the most inspiring outdoor

accommodations in the world.

Mike, how would you describe Anne to someone who has not met her

before? Anne is always down for an adventure. She loves connecting

with people and has an uncanny ability to get anyone to crack a smile,

and feel like an old friend. She’s also an excellent writer, and makes our

travels sound like poetry. I couldn't imagine going anywhere on this earth

without her!

Global route from the first year of HoneyTrek

You left your traditional lives behind more than a decade ago

and turned a one-year honeymoon into a global life project.

What was the real turning point that convinced you this was

not a trip but a new way of living? We planned this trip as a

16-month honeymoon with a plan to be back by Christmas

2013 and rejoin the corporate world, buy a house, and have

kids…just like we are all expected to do. We did come home

to the States for the holidays that year, only to realize how

happy we were on the road, learning every day from other

cultures, having the freedom to explore as we pleased, and

defining our own version of success. We didn’t have to make

six figures, we just had to reprioritize what matters…because

when you have love, health, and adventure, that’s about

as rich as you can be. We just needed to make HoneyTrek

profitable enough to meet those goals, and with that, we

made travel storytelling our full-time job and have kept the

honeymoon going ever since!

In the early years of HoneyTrek, were there moments of

doubt that almost sent you home, and what kept you moving

when the easy option was to quit? Our travels average about

three days per city and 10 countries a year–that’s a breakneck

pace that can wear you down. At year five, we were ready to

unpack our bags, sleep in our own bed, and cook whenever

we wanted. But as tempting as consistency and stability

sounded, it didn’t mean we wanted to give up traveling.

Then a lightbulb went off…a house on wheels! We bought

our 1985 Toyota Sunrader RV, “Buddy,” and explored North

America (including all 50 States, 9 Canadian provinces, and

Baja, Mexico) from the comforts of “home.” We’re only in the

camper about 4-6 months a year and backpacking or glamping

the world the rest of the time, but we feel better knowing that

we have a little house and adventure mobile whenever we

need it.

Your book, Comfortably Wild, , argues that meaningful travel

comes from experiences that challenge comfort zones rather

than reinforce them. How has your own definition of comfort

shifted after so many years on the road? To travel long-term,

you have to be highly adaptable. If you expect things to

be a certain way, you’ll be disappointed. We have learned

to approach situations with an open mind and a sense

of gratitude, and we’re often pleasantly surprised. We’ve

hitchhiked on top of 18-wheelers, eaten street food in favelas,

and slept in mud huts with strangers, but we’ve also stayed in

some of the world’s most luxurious resorts. If you don’t know

the lows, you can’t appreciate the highs. This mix keeps us

humble and our travels fresh.

Every long journey has a financial breaking point. What were

the hardest lessons you learned about sustaining travel for

the long haul, and what systems finally gave you stability? In

addition to owning our own camper (and mastering the art of

free camping), housesitting has been a great way to lower our

burn rate. Whenever we feel like slowing down, we’ll find a

villa with a pet that needs caretaking, and post up there for

2-3 weeks, free of charge. (We wrote a guide all about it, if

you want to check out HoneyTrek.com/Housesitting). After

lodging, our next biggest expense is flights. To reduce costs

and carbon footprint, we always opt for overland travel when

possible. For unavoidable long-haul flights, we’ve honed our

mileage hacking skills and are always able to book with points

(more on that here: HoneyTrek.com/FFhacks )

Buddy the Camper road tripping Baja, Mexico

Trekking to Tiger's Nest Monastery in Bhutan


HoneyTrek book booth at The Glamping Show

Brando Private Island Resort, French Polynesia

You have lived through the evolution of travel media from blogs to

social platforms to story-driven communities. How did you avoid

becoming another short-lived influencer account and instead build

something with depth and longevity? When we started our blog,

it wasn’t to gain recognition or money. It has always been for the

love of travel and sharing the experiences that inspire us. As we’ve

seen overtourism take its toll on destinations, we’ve tried to shine

a light on lesser-known places and travel experiences that benefit

local communities and the environment. We also try to keep it real

on social. We are lucky to have a lot of incredible adventures and

splash-out moments, which is why it’s extra important to also show

the fails and humor in them. Trying to be pretty and perfect is not only

unsustainable, but it’s also unrelatable. We try to be a friend to our

followers, and that builds loyalty and trust in the long run.

You often seek out communities that large-scale tourism ignores. What

is the strongest example of a place that changed your thinking about

what adventure means? Trekking to see the endangered mountain

gorillas in Volcanoes National Park is on just about every adventure

and wildlife lover’s bucket list. Though in the race to see the primates

and have a champagne toast at luxury lodges, travelers forget to

acknowledge the human side of the Virunga Mountains. This is why

we are so glad we found Red Rocks Rwanda, an ecotourism company

and a UNWTO-award-winning tourism village. We stayed at their

guest house for three days in a traditional hut and took workshops

in Rwandan drumming, cooking, banana-beer brewing, and pottery.

All activities are led by their women’s cooperative, made up of 52

ladies from three surrounding villages, with 100% of the proceeds

going directly to them. We were completely swept up in the positive

energy of this place—from team leader Pouline, who has a way of

communicating with a laugh and smile that makes you feel fluent in

Kinyarwanda, to the extended stay guests, working on everything from

educational films to conservation projects. In the end, our time at Red

Rocks was as memorable as the gorilla tracking, and we know it made

a difference in the lives of the village, too.

You have seen countries at their best and worst moments. Which

destination tested your resilience the most, and what did it teach you

about who you both are as travellers and as partners? Google Maps said

the coastal route from Ibo, Mozambique to Zanzibar, Tanzania, was

nonexistent. But it was less than 500 miles straight up the coast…how

hard could that be? So we set sail in a dhow boat, hitchhiked on top

of a banana truck, slept in a mud hut, waded through a river, rode in

a gin-smuggling pickup, and after FOURTEEN legs of transit, and three

days on the road, we made it. It was far from easy, but an unforgettable

journey and one that showed us there is always a way.

Mike & Anne kayaking around the icebergs of Antarctica


"There are still so many regions of the world we want to

explore! One goal for the next decade is to travel a bit

slower. Whenever we stay in a place for a few weeks and

live like a local, we are that much happier as travelers.

That said, we are serial adventurers, and we have no desire

to “settle down” and stop exploring…"

HoneyTrek is known for championing locally owned,

environmentally aware, and culturally sensitive operators.

Was there a moment when you realised how big the gap was

between responsible travel in theory and responsible travel in

real practice? We’re constantly amazed and frankly disappointed

by the amount of “eco-tourism” outfitters still using singleuse

water bottles, offering meat-heavy menus, chucking their

recyclables, using fossil-fuel transportation, and other old-school

hospitality practices that ignore their carbon footprint and the

impact on the local communities. Even worse, hotels that wave

the eco-flag by saying things like “We’re green; please hang

your towels to help us save water and energy,” but don’t have

low-flow toilets or solar power. Greenwashing is very real. We

need to be designing travel experiences with sustainability and

community impact as guiding principles, not a brownie point we

brag about on Earth Day.

After more than 5,000 days on the road together, what has been

the hardest part of travelling as a couple? Traveling together

is the fun part; the hardest bit is that travel is also our job, so

it can be tough to separate work and pleasure. We try to take

moments that are just for us (ie no social media) and also breaks

from being together 24/7. For “me-time,” Mike will zone out into

his world of podcasts and I’ll take a long walk. It’s also helpful

that we’re both very social, so we like meeting new people and

creating reasons to connect–be it with strangers or old friends.

It’s important to create time for yourself and also a social circle

bigger than two.

Lunch at a Berber homestay, Tunisia

When you wrote Comfortably Wild, , what were the stories you

felt compelled to include because they carried a truth about

adventure? For every glamping property in the book, we have

a section that switches between a behind-the-scenes story from

our personal experience or a quote from a regular guest. Those

candid accounts and emotional responses are so important to

conveying the essence of a place. Travel writing can’t be all

flowery language and superlatives; it’s gotta strike a chord with

the adventurer within.

What is the biggest misconception readers have about your

lifestyle? We know we have a dream job, but it’s way more

hustle than people realize. Being out adventuring all day is

fantastic, but it also means you are always backlogged on emails,

photo editing, writing, and proposals. Not to mention our office

is often a moving bus, a noisy airport terminal, or a guesthouse

with painfully slow internet, so even basic tasks can easily get

derailed.

After so many years of choosing movement instead of settlement,

what still feels new, and where do you see the next chapter of

HoneyTrek heading? There are still so many regions of the world

we want to explore! One goal for the next decade is to travel a

bit slower. Whenever we stay in a place for a few weeks and live

like a local, we are that much happier as travelers. That said, we

are serial adventurers, and we have no desire to “settle down”

and stop exploring…

Great Plains Conservation safari in the Maasai Mara, Kenya

To follow along on our adventures, check out HoneyTrek.com and @HoneyTrek across all social media channels. Glamping and

eco-resort fans, be sure to pick up a copy of Comfortably Wild (www.HoneyTrek.com/CWB)...we so appreciate your support!

Hiking the Outer Bay of Islands, Newfoundland, Canada

walk-run-bike

ruapehu

Peak summer in Ruapehu means the mountains are calling and the rivers are flowing.

Here are some top places and stunning spaces to get out and about in Ruapehu’s Greater

Outdoors. An absolute mecca for walkers, runners and bikers - there are over 50 trails and

tracks to discover within an hour’s driving radius in the Ruapehu region. And with a stellar

line up of sporting events this season, it’s the perfect time to plan your active holiday here.

Bikers on the Ohakune Old Coach Road - Photo credit, Visit Ruapehu

"ruapehu is An absolute mecca for walkers, runners and

bikers - with over 50 trails and tracks to discover within an

hour’s driving radius in the Ruapehu region"

Discover Your Favourite Mountains to Sea – Ngā Ara Tūhono

Section

One of two Ngā Haerenga Great Rides in Ruapehu, Mountains

to Sea – Ngā Ara Tūhono is a connected network of over

300km of trails stretching from the slopes of Tongariro National

Park to the Tasman Sea at Whanganui.

With options ranging from short half-day outings to multi-day

journeys, these shared-use trails are designed for flexibility. A

mix of Grade 2 and Grade 3 riding and running means there’s

something for families through to experienced adventurers.

Trails are free to access year-round, with seasonal closures

possible on sections such as the Mangapurua Track during

winter or severe weather.

Whether you’re on foot or pedal-powered, explore at your own

pace while connecting with local communities and uncovering

the stories of people and place along the way.

Key sections include:

• Te Ara Mangawhero – rising through mountain forest

• Ohakune Old Coach Road – traversing transport history

• Te Hangāruru – connecting people and nature

• Marton Sash & Door – bush tramway heritage

• Fishers Track – historic pack route with sweeping rural

views

• Kaiwhakauka – through valleys of forgotten soldiers,

reborn as a Great Ride

• Mangapurua Track – WWI soldier history through dramatic

bluffs to the Bridge to Nowhere

• Whanganui River Road – a cultural road ride alongside the

awa

• Upokongaro to the Tasman Sea – arriving in a UNESCO

City of Design

• Combine sections to create a full adventure:

• Mountains to Sea – Classic – a rewarding 3–4 day journey

• Mountains to Sea – Adventure – discover a bit more

Check Out Ruapehu’s Upcoming Sporting Events

17 Jan 2026 – The Goat Adventure Run https://thegoat.co.nz/

14 Mar 2026 – Blazing Hills https://www.blazinghills.nz/

27–29 Mar 2026 – Ring of Fire Volcanic Ultra https://rof.co.nz/

28 Mar 2026 – Tussock Traverse https://tussocktraverse.co.nz/

18 Apr 2026 – Raetihi Gutbuster https://www.raetihi-gutbuster.

com/

NZ’s Highest Parkrun

Kick-start your morning with the locals at Parkrun Ohakune,

held every Saturday at 8am along the Mangawhero River —

more than 600 metres above sea level.

Explore more www.visitruapehu.com

The new Blue Duck Station Adventure Walk

There’s an incredible new multi-day walk to discover at the

award-winning Blue Duck Station which is open for bookings

between September through to March. The newly opened Blue

Duck Station Adventure Walk is a three-day, fully catered, selfguided

journey through the heart of this conservation focused

high-country station. Walk (or run) 32 km over three days

past magnificent redwoods, subtropical rainforest and historic

buildings. Soak up the stunning views of mountain peaks

of Tongariro National Park as well as the sounds and sights

abundant birdlife including the rare whio (Blue Duck) for the

lucky ones.

The Timber Trail – A Journey Through Forest, History and Renewal

The Timber Trail is one of Ruapehu’s most iconic outdoor

journeys, inviting walkers, runners and riders deep into the

heart of Pureora Forest Park for a truly immersive backcountry

experience — without sacrificing comfort at day’s end.

Once heavily logged, Pureora is now a protected conservation

park and the focus of major restoration efforts. Today, the

Timber Trail passes through a forest in recovery, where

endangered species such as kōkako and the short-tailed bat are

being actively protected and re-established. Travelling this trail

connects adventure with conservation and purpose.

Blue Duck Falls - Photo credit Visit Ruapehu

Tussock Traverse - Photo credit Kurt Matthews

Overnight gear is transported between your lodge

accommodation each day with delicious homestyle meals

for breakfast, packed lunches and hearty dinners provided

for. Minimum booking is for two people (double or twin

share occupancy). Located on the banks of the Whanganui

and Retaruke Rivers and surrounded by stunning beauty of

Whanganui National Park, let this remote wilderness walk bring

you to the adventure of a lifetime.

Mountain Biking at Blue Duck Station

Whakahoro is a significant trail stop on the Mountains to Sea –

Ngā Ara Tūhono connected pathways and on the Tour Aotearoa

journey.

Best known as a Grade 3 - Great Ride, the Timber Trail is

equally popular with trail runners and long-distance adventurers.

It forms part of iconic journeys including Tour Aotearoa, Kopiko

Aotearoa and the Te Araroa Trail, making it a rite of passage for

those crossing the centre of the North Island in Aotearoa under

their own power.

The trail blends smooth singletrack, gravel forest roads

and historic tramway corridors, punctuated by spectacular

suspension bridges high above forested gorges. Most visitors

enjoy the Timber Trail as a two-day journey, staying overnight

in eco-lodges, glamping sites or historic forest accommodation

nestled deep within the park.

The Kaiwhakauka Trail connects at Blue Duck Station Café

before climbing into the Kaiwhakauka Valley and linking

onward to the Mangapurua Track and the iconic Bridge to

Nowhere, 44km later. Jet boat drop-offs can be organised,

alongside options for scenic farm riding and side trips to

waterfalls tucked into the landscape.

As night falls, the forest quietens and the stars emerge — a

reminder of just how remote and special this place remains.

Whether you’re riding, running or walking, the Timber Trail

delivers a defining Ruapehu experience: wild, restorative and

beautifully comfortable.

Cycling the Bridge to Nowhere - Photo credit Visit Ruapehu

Bikers in Pureora Forest - Photo credit studiozag


Located in the heart of the Ruapehu District

The outdoors capital of the North Island!

Gorgeous unique bespoke historic Vacation Home:

Accommodates 2-18 guests in up to seven bedrooms

Centrally located to: ‘42 Traverse’ ends at our doorstep

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Pureora Timber Trail

The mighty Whanganui River

The Forgotten Highway (& Bridge to Nowhere)

30Mins to Whakapapa & 60mins to Turoa

Plus central to numerous other treks and trails

(& Waitomo GlowWorm Caves en route from Auckland)

www.TheOldPostOfficeLodge.co.nz

“Escape to the Wilderness”

Tongariro National Park

17 Carroll Street, Waimarino, Ruapehu

Ph: 07 892 2993

www.plateaulodge.co.nz

Rentals | Hiking Gear | E-Bikes

Ski-Biz @ The Alpine Centre, Waimarino Village

We Rent:

Hiking Boots

Backpacks

Rain Wear

Hiking Poles

Sleeping Bags

All the Tongariro

Essentials!

E-Bike Rentals

For local Mountains to Sea Trails | Fishers Track |

Marton Sash & Door and more….

www.thealpincentre.co.nz | Ph: 07 892 2717

10 Carroll Street, Waimarino Village

business,

growth &

Lifestyle

the rise of ruapehu distillery

For businesses seeking an environment that offers both an

outdoor lifestyle and a place to put down roots, the Central

Plateau makes a compelling case. Centrally located, lower

overheads, resilient communities, spectacular environment,

and immediate access to real adventure create a working

environment that is not just productive and grounded, but fun.

This is not a business based on escapism; it is a smarter way

to build one. Founder

of Ruapehu Distillery, Susan Delaney,

explains more.

I chose to build Ruapehu Distillery in Ohakune because this town doesn’t

merely offer adventure nearby, it embeds it into everyday life. The mountain

dominates the horizon, the bush begins at the end of the street, and the trails

start almost from the back door. As a keen mountain biker and skier, I didn’t

want my passion for the outdoors to be something I squeezed in around work. I

wanted it to be part of the rhythm of the business itself. In Ohakune, a day can

start with a ride through forest single-track, flow into checking fermentations and

monitoring still temperatures, and finish with an afternoon on the slopes or a

hike into Tongariro National Park. That cadence shapes how I think, how I solve

problems, and ultimately how the spirits are made.

There is also a deep alignment between the character of this place and the

character I want Ruapehu Distillery to have. The Central Plateau is rugged,

unpretentious and quietly resilient. People here build, fix, adapt and get on with

it. When storms cut roads or the mountain throws up surprises, the community

rallies, not with drama, but with practicality. That mindset is exactly what starting

a distillery requires; persistence, flexibility, and a straight up willingness to learn

by doing.

Ohakune is not just where we produce spirits; it is becoming part of the

experience we offer. Visitors already come here for skiing, biking, tramping and

exploration. By placing the distillery in the heart of that adventure economy,

Ruapehu Distillery becomes a natural stop on the journey rather than a

destination that has to be manufactured through marketing alone. It is a place to

warm up after a winter day on the mountain, to celebrate a long ride, or to slow

down and reflect after time outdoors. The town gives us authenticity that cannot

be replicated in an industrial estate or an urban backstreet.

From a commercial perspective, the decision is grounded as much in logic as in

lifestyle. The Central Plateau offers room to grow, manageable overheads and

a supportive local network. It is centrally positioned for distribution across the

North Island without the congestion and costs of major cities. That balance of

opportunity and environment allows Ruapehu Distillery to scale steadily, build

real roots, and create a brand that is inseparable from the place it calls home.

Here, the adventure is not something we sell; it is something we live, and it

flows into every bottle we produce. This isn’t escapism, it’s intention.

Launching early February with a new website at www.ruapehudistillery.com

Founder of Ruapehu Distillery, Susan Delaney, "at-home" in all that Ohakune and surrounds has to offer; in the snow, on the trails and in Ruapehu Distillery. (Distillery image by Kim Hill)


Outside a remote bivvy site in Greenland. Behind us is Zula,

the boat we joined as crew for a couple of weeks navigating

down the isolated coast

Two

kiwi

birds

Blue Moves on her maiden voyage near the Bay of Islands, New Zealand. Our 2003 Land Cruiser is currently in a container en route to London.

Ella and Charlotte call themselves Two Kiwi Birds. Two young adventurers who pack

more courage than cash, chasing adventure on an undersized budget with oversized

dreams. Not the glossy influencer version either. They capture the real stuff. Saddle sores,

wet socks, wrong turns, laughter around a cheap camp stove, and the strange comfort that

comes with realising you are figuring out life outdoors as you go.

In the past nine months the pair have threaded

themselves across Europe and beyond. Solo

bikepacking through Morocco with nothing but

willpower and chain grease. Sailing along the wild

coast of Greenland where the ocean runs cold and

silent. Hiking through Iceland and Madeira. Finding

routes almost anywhere there was a horizon worth

chasing.

Now they are preparing for their biggest leap yet. A

six to seven month overland expedition along the Silk

Road and into the Pamir Highway, steering a 2003 New

Zealand Troopcarrier they have named Blue Moves.

The plan, in short, is simple. Drive east, keep driving,

keep saying yes.

People tell them they are crazy. Some laugh. Some

shake their heads. But challenge is the fuel. As they

put it, the hard moments seed the best stories. In a

few days the breakdown becomes the punchline. The

rainstorm becomes the memory you bring up over

beers. That attitude is stitched through their mission.

To stand as two young women proving that girls can

do anything. If you want to go, you can go. If you

have a big idea, back yourself. Say yes.

Their vehicle Blue Moves has been built for slow

travel. A tiny rolling base camp loaded for off grid

life with two lithium batteries, fridge freezer, shower,

heater, 220 litres of fuel, 80 litres of water and enough

space to sleep four. She is not fast. She is not flashy.

She is freedom. The kind that lets you stop when a

valley looks promising or stay put when the wind is

warm and the tea is good.

crossings. Mechanical lessons on

the roadside with cold knuckles

and long breaths. Plans will

change, weather will decide, and

something will definitely break.

That is part of the excitement. No

over planning. No perfect script.

Just the road and two Kiwis

learning as they go.

Right now Blue Moves is in a

shipping container bound for a

port near London. The girls fly

north soon after. If schedules hold

they will roll east from London

in mid March. Through the

"To stand as

two young

women proving

that girls can

do anything.

If you want to

go, you can go.

If you have a

big idea, back

yourself.

Say yes."

Balkans. Into Turkey and Georgia. Across the Caspian

Sea or through Central Asia depending on border

and seasonal conditions. Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan,

Tajikistan along the Pamir Highway, the so called Roof

of the World. Kyrgyzstan, and with luck, Mongolia. The

final hurdle will be access. Reaching Mongolia means

crossing either Russia or China, so conversations with

other overlanders will shape that chapter.

These are ancient corridors where trade caravans once

moved like bloodlines through mountains and desert.

Places where culture has travelled on horseback for

centuries. Hard landscapes with big stories. Exactly

the kind of ground that seems to pull adventurers like

magnets.

They expect six to seven months on the road, moving

with the weather so the high passes can be crossed in

spring. The unknown is enormous. So is the reward.

Hiking above Ilulissat, Greenland, with views over the icefjord.

How will they manage it? They are honest. They do

not fully know yet. Central Asia will demand resilience.

Altitudes reaching 4600 metres. Bureaucratic border

Two Kiwi Birds. One Troopcarrier. A line across the

map and a grin that says the only way forward is to

turn the key and drive.

Trekking through Iceland’s highlands on the Landmannalaugar hike.

On top of the Tizi n’Test Pass in Morocco’s Atlas Mountains — one of

the highest road passes in North Africa.


Walking on

the WildSide

Australia’s Next Great

Adventures on Foot

By World Expeditions

With the rising cost of long-haul travel

and the appeal of staying closer to home,

many New Zealanders are turning their

attention to Australia – not just for city

breaks or beaches, but for something more

grounded: time on foot in wild places.

In 2026, there’s more reason than ever to do just

that. Several new or reopened trails are unlocking

parts of Australia that were previously difficult

to access – from off-grid islands in the tropics to

alpine landscapes and cultural heartlands. Walking

infrastructure is improving, flight routes remain

frequent and affordable, and small group options

make logistics easier for those seeking immersive

travel without the complexity of going further afield.

A number of new and upgraded routes have recently

opened across the country including trails once

closed to the public, others newly developed in

collaboration with Traditional Owners, and some that

simply remain under the radar. These trails offer an

opportunity to see a different side of Australia, one

best experienced on foot.

For New Zealanders looking for a walking holiday

that feels far from home but not too far away, these

seven trails offer a mix of established highlights and

compelling new journeys. From Tasmania and the

Top End to remote tropical islands now welcoming

guided walkers for the first time, this is our edit of the

best walks in Australia in 2026.

New Access to the Great Barrier Reef – On Foot

Ngaro Track, Whitsunday Island, QLD | 3 days | Grade: Introductory to

Moderate

For the first time, it’s possible to experience the Great Barrier Reef not

only from the water, but also from above – on foot. The newly opened

3 day Ngaro Track traverses Whitsunday Island, the largest in the

archipelago, via a 32km route developed in partnership with the Ngaro

People, the Traditional Owners of this land and sea Country.

The trail begins at Whitehaven Beach, regularly cited among the world’s

most beautiful thanks to its striking white silica sand and vibrant turquoise

water. From here, it weaves through forest and mangrove before climbing

Whitsunday Craig and finishing at the dramatic swirling sands of Hill Inlet.

With the first walks commencing in May 2026, this is the first guided walk

of its kind in the Whitsundays. It coincides with Queensland’s broader

investment in sustainable tourism as the state prepares for the Brisbane

2032 Olympic Games. For those seeking a fresh perspective on an iconic

destination, this is a timely and unique opportunity.

World Expeditions’ three-day trip includes guided walking, interpretive

insights, and accommodation in architect-designed campsites that blend

into the landscape – one tucked into a ridge, the other among palms and

hoop pines.

Kosciuszko National Park on the Snowies Alpine

Walk - Photo by Lachlan Gardiner

Ngaro Track, Whitsunday Islands

Image by Matt Horspool

Thorsborne Trail: Remote Island Wilderness Reopens

Hinchinbrook Island, QLD | 5 days | Grade: Moderate

In a major milestone for sustainable tourism and nature-based

adventure travel, bookings for World Expeditions’ new guided

walk on the Thorsborne Trail on Munamudanamy (Hinchinbrook

Island) are now open, offering walkers a new and immersive

walking experience on one of Australia’s most revered remote and

wild nature experiences. The first departure is scheduled for May

3, 2026, with the season open through to the end of October.

Underpinned by deep respect for Country, culture and

conservation, the 4 day Thorsborne Trail Walking Experience

spans 32 kilometres across Munamudanamy, a destination

celebrated for its untouched beauty, tropical diversity and

remoteness. Traversing forests, waterfalls and coastal mangroves

with high ridge views to the Coral Sea, the trail is home to rich

biodiversity including cassowaries, dugongs and vibrant birdlife.

World Expeditions also offers a supported five-day version of the

walk, ideal for those who want a slowed down version of the

remote island experience.

Flinders Island: One of Australia’s Great Walks

Tasmania | 6 days | Grade: Introductory to Moderate

Named a prestigious Great Walk of Australia in 2024, Flinders

Island delivers granite peaks, sweeping beach vistas, varied

terrain and abundant wildlife. This six-day guided walk explores

wild coastal trails and summits like Mt Strzelecki, returning each

evening to a secluded beachside Eco-Comfort Camp replete with

standing tents, raised beds and freshly cooked meals.

The pace is relaxed, the scenery spectacular, and the experience

far from the crowds. It’s a strong option for New Zealanders after

an island hike with genuine wilderness appeal.

Kakadu Explorer: A Fresh Take on an Icon

Northern Territory | 6 days | Grade: Adventure Touring

With upgraded road access now making travel to and within

Kakadu National Park far easier, guided walking trips here are

attracting a new wave of interest. World Expeditions’ Kakadu

Explorer itinerary visits some of the park’s best-known highlights

– like the Yellow Waters Billabong – as well as lesser-known trails

and cultural sites well off the tourist radar.

Expect dramatic escarpments, Indigenous rock art, crocodile

habitat and waterfalls – all with the insights of local guides.

Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail: Easier Access,

Same Wild Beauty | South Australia | 5 days | Grade: Moderate

Kangaroo Island’s rugged coastal track has been one of South

Australia’s standout walks for years, and now, with new ferry

services and upgraded facilities, it’s more accessible than ever. The

five-day itinerary includes pack-free walking, interpretive insights,

and encounters with koalas, sea lions and other local wildlife.

Walkers will cover windswept cliffs, dense bushland, and geological

landmarks like the Remarkable Rocks and Admirals Arch.

Alpine Meadows and Australia’s Highest Peak

Snowy Mountains, NSW | 4 days | Grade: Introductory to Moderate

While Mt Kosciuszko is Australia’s tallest mountain it’s surprisingly

accessible – no technical gear required. But this walk isn’t just

about the summit. It’s a curated journey through glacial lakes,

wildflower meadows, and the high alpine country of Kosciuszko

National Park.

World Expeditions’ four-day walk includes interpretive guiding and

comfortable accommodation, making it ideal for those wanting

mountain scenery with minimal logistics.

Why Book with World Expeditions New Zealand?

Each of these trips is fully bookable through World Expeditions New Zealand, with local support before departure and experienced

guides on the ground in Australia. Many walks include Eco-Comfort Camps, pack-free itineraries, and small-group departures, making

them ideal for New Zealanders who want to explore Australia’s wild places with minimal environmental impact and maximum ease.

With new trails, better access and rich cultural storytelling woven into each experience, now is an excellent time to plan a walking

journey across the ditch. To find out more: www.worldexpeditions.co.nz

Zoe Falls, Munamundanamy (Hinchinbrook Island)

Photo by Miachael Buggy

Hiking on Mt Strzelecki, Flinders Island

Photo by Lachlan Gardiner

Ubir, Cahills Crossing and Rocky outcrops in

Kakadu National Park - Photo by Peter Mollison

Admirals Arch - Kangaroo Island

Photo by Lauren Bath


race report

The Kepler

Challenge

By Nick Laurie

The Kepler Challenge is New Zealand’s premier mountain ultra-running race. It is a 60k

race that has been held since 1988 over the Kepler Track, one of NZs great walks in the

Fiordland National Park. Usually, it is a 4 day hike and runners knock it out in anything

from 4.5 to 12 hours. It is held on the first Saturday of December and is contested by 450

athletes. Gaining entry to this race is a feat in itself, with over 1000 hopefuls attempting

an online entry on the first Saturday of July at 6:30am. I had last run the race in 2023 and

missed out in 2024 due to my poor computer skills. I had been disappointed with my first

race effort and had a goal of running a perfect race. Having secured an entry I wanted to

use this event as a steppingstone to the Old Ghost Ultra that I will be running in February.

The Kepler track starts at the control gates just out of

Te Anau and heads out to Brod Bay. The first 5k is

relatively flat with only a gain of 66m. It then heads

995m straight up over the next 8k, to Mt Luxmore and

the 2nd aid station at the Luxmore Hut. Competitors

then head into some alpine environments and are

required to carry mandatory safety gear which is

inspected before you can pass on to the next section

up to Forest Burn Shelter.

In my first attempt at this race, I had arrived at

Luxmore feeling slightly gassed. I was frustrated that

I had walked part of the way. Experience was a great

teacher and this time I had prepared myself with some

fast, economical, walking training. It worked at treat,

and this time I arrived at the hut nice and fresh. All the

way up I was entertained by 2 guys who were having

and endless conversation covering topics like school

rowing, adventure racing, and the stock market. Man

could they talk. After passing the gear inspection there

were 2 guys dressed in dinosaur costumes offering

everyone a shot of Tequila. I have to say that I had

no Southern Mana on this occasion and declined

their kind offer. You could tell when someone had a

shot because they would roar “that’s the spirit” before

moving on to the next victim. I had been tailing

behind Fleur, a past Chiropractic patient of mine,

who was running her 9th Kepler. She had similar time

goals, so I knew that I was on pace. Fleur knocked the

Tequila back like a trooper and I made a note to see

how that made her day pan out.

The next aid station was only about 5k away, but we

climbed a further 369m over a rugged schist filled

track. I had opted to run in a T shirt instead of a

thermal top and felt the cold here as there was even a

bit of snow beside the track as we neared the summit

of Mt Luxmore. The views at this part of the race are

breathtaking and I made sure that I did have a look

around before navigating my way down the mountain.

After reaching the Hanging Valley shelter it was time

for a sharp descent, 591m in 5k. In my last attempt

I had fallen at this stage. Apparently, there were 93

corners on this section, I lost count at 27. This is

where my fuelling mistake started. Instead of drinking

to thirst, which you should do in colder climates, I

had a sip of water every 15 minutes. I noticed that my

fingers were starting to swell which was a sure sign of

over hydration.

The next section was the beginning of an undulating 30 kilometres. The small

uphills were starting to feel like mountains but from Iris Burn to the Moturau

Hut I was able to run at a nice smooth pace. I compounded my fuelling

error by taking on an electrolyte drink at the Rocky Point aid station and by

the time I left Motuarau Hut the wheels were loosening. I was starting to get

cramping in my quads.

I set a goal of getting to Rainbow Reach, which was where Sarah would

be waiting to give me some wise words before I set off for the last 10k.

I started to sing to myself (my son is a popstar, not me) and lift my head

not watching my foot placement. I kicked a root and went over to face

plant and barrel roll. Not a graceful combination. As I landed, I was beset

by cramp in both legs and let out a wimpy scream losing my last bit of

Southern Mana. A fellow competitor stopped to help me to my feet and

though I was grateful I was pissed off for falling, making a rookie fuelling

error, and not injuring myself badly enough to warrant an emergency

evacuation. I dusted myself off, stemmed the bleeding and set off for

Rainbow Reach. This was where the wheels fell right off. I couldn’t lift my

pace above a fast walk without cramping up. My friend Fleur, of Tequila

shot fame, came jogging past summoning me to join her, but I

just had to wish her luck and wonder why I had signed myself

up for such a suck fest. Note to self. Always take a shot if

offered. I vowed that this would be my last ever run and I was

going to embark on a year of solid alcoholism.

The cruel downhill to the Rainbow Reach aid station was

crippling. I am sure that if I went back there today it would only

be a slight decline, but I seriously considered walking backwards

down the hill to give my quads some respite. Sarah was waiting

there with kind words and a tip to think about my breathing. I

was almost in tears at this point when she conveyed messages

of support from the boys back home. I grabbed all the food that

I could including a coke for energy and sent off at the briskest

walk that I could muster. It was going to be a long 10k home. I

have to say the breathing tip did work but I couldn’t get into a

run without my quads cramping up. With 2k to go I could hear

the finish announcer and rounded a corner to see Sarah waiting

for me. Another crack up, sookie baby moment ensued and we

"I vowed that

this would

be my last

ever run and

I was going to

embark on a

year of solid

alcoholism."

ran together to the finish. My fellow Chiropractic colleague Sindre

Stoten was waiting there with his family after finishing 2 hours

ahead of me. Awesome effort. My result sucked. 7th in my age

group and 4 minutes slower than my last effort. At one stage I was

on to beat it by an hour! Bloody cramp.

My cousin Geoff was there ready to take me to the pub as soon as

I could walk again. The race had been won by professional Ultra

athlete Dan Jones for a record 7th time. He had only beaten me

by 4.5 hours so I reckon that I could take him next year! If I had a

trail bike. We saw him at the pub later sucking on a Speights with

his new baby strapped to his front.

For the next 7 days while cycling the Otago Rail trail on an E Bike

I became an ex-athlete. This was a great post-race, zone 1, flush

out. Slowly as I did my post-race analysis and started my Old

Ghost training block, I am scheming revenge. Kepler will do that

to you. I’ll be back.


TRAVEL

Exped Cruiser 35 Daypack RRP $299.99

Versatile daypack that converts to

a shoulder bag, with organised

suitcase-style opening, padded

laptop/tablet sleeves and multiple

pockets for work, travel and

everyday gear.

www.bivouac.co.nz

Osprey Waist Pack RRP $129.99

Whether you’re heading to a farmer’s market, walking the

dog or exploring sites half a world away, the Transporter

Waist Pack provides simple waist or crossbody carry

made with durable, highly water-resistant NanoTough

exterior fabrics.

• Large main zippered pocket

• Internal organisation pockets with key clip

• Front zippered pocket

• Compression straps

• Bluesign® Product

• Backed by our All Mighty Guarantee TM .

Find a Stockist: southernapproach.co.nz

lowe alpine packing cubes RRP $34.95 - $54.95

Pack more efficiently by storing your kit in cubes, keep

your belongings organized and easy to find. Available in

small, medium, and large.


Osprey TTransporter Sling RRP $149.99

The Transporter Sling's thoughtful internal organisation

and zippered harness pocket keep contents in place as

you travel around town or around the globe, and a waist

stabilizer strap means no terrain is off limits.

• Ambidextrous shoulder strap that can be worn on

either shoulder

• AirScape Backpanel: Mesh-covered ridged foam

provides breathable all-day carry comfort.

• Zippered mesh cell phone pocket on harness

• Internal laptop sleeve that fits up to most 14” laptops

• Internal organisation pockets

• Front zippered pocket with key clip

• Waist stabilizer strap



Osprey Transporter Squffel 44 RRP $399.99

Enhance organisation of clothing or gear with this square, split-case

duffel.

The rugged, lightweight Transporter Squffel 44 is constructed with

remarkably strong abrasion-resistant NanoToughTM exterior fabrics.

Access the main compartment through a large, traditional top flap or

open the center-split zipper for clamshell access.

• Ventilated top section for separating damp shoes or clothing

• Fully-lined bottom section protects your contents from mingling

• Large, lockable U-zip access to top-loading main compartment

• Weather-protected top-loading zip path with overlapping rain flap

• Zippered end pocket for quick access to smaller items

• Internal zippered mesh pocket



Also available in 70L


Rab Expedition Kitbag – 50, 80 and 120 litres RRP $199.95 - $239.95

Hardwearing, heavy duty, and water-resistant, this bag is

made with 600D fabric and designed to keep your gear

safe and withstand the rigors of an expedition.


patagonia Black Hole Duffel 50L RRP $279.95

This 55-litre workhorse organises your gear

and has enough space for a fun-hog weekend

or a well-organised extended trip. It delivers

the same legendary performance you expect

from our Black Hole® bags, but with a huge

step toward environmental impact reduction

with 100% recycled body fabric, lining and

webbing, and now a pioneering recycled TPUfilm

laminate with a sleek matte finish. Made

in a Fair Trade Certified factory.

www.patagonia.co.nz

Osprey Transporter Duffel 65 RRP $369.99

Great for a gear-intensive weekend or longer travel.

Rugged, lightweight and remarkably strong.

A workhorse duffel with an exceptionally comfortable

carry system and as-needed deployable backpack harness

straps with adjustable sternum strap.

• Large lockable U-zip access to main compartment

• Weather-protected main compartment zip path with

overlapping rain flap

• Zippered end pocket for quick access to smaller items

• Internal zippered mesh pocket

• Four burly webbing grab handles

• Eight webbing lash points for securing duffels



Also available in 95L, 120L &150L


Osprey Transporter Wheeled Duffel 90 RRP $599.99

This is your go-to companion for big trips that require

lots of room for lots of gear.

The Transporter Wheeled Duffel 90 is constructed with

remarkably strong, highly water-resistant NanoTough TM

exterior fabrics. The high-clearance HighRoad chassis

features a sturdy aluminum frame with patented

buttonless trolly handle and oversized wheels that roll

unfazed from beach vacations to base camp.

• Wide, easy-to-pack main access

• #10 YKK zippers with lockable sliders and rain flap

protection

• Large external end pocket keeps smaller items

accessible

• Four padded tubular web grab handles, plus a bottom

molded foot, make the bag easy to lift from any angle

• Six additional lash points ensure secure transport

• A large internal zippered mesh pocket helps organise

contents

• 14" wide chassis

• Internal pockets can accommodate most popular

luggage trackers

Also available in 60L



Exped Organizer Ultra Mesh

RRP from $32.99

Ultralight, breathable mesh organiser

available in 2L, 4L, 9L and 19L, with

large zip access, colour-coded sizes

and corner loops for tidy gear.

www.bivouac.co.nz

yeti LOADOUT® GOBOX 1 GEAR CASE RRP $110.00 NZD

Meet YETI’s newest, most compact

member of the waterproof, dustproof and

nearly indestructible GoBox®

Family. Sized to keep your small

essentials secure, no matter the

adventure. Available at: nz.yeti.com or

selected retailers.

nz.yeti.com

merrell NEW AGILITY PEAK 6 (men's)

RRP $299.00

Designed to be a trail runner's

most reliable tool in the most

unpredicatable sport, the NEW

Agility Peak 6 delivers stability,

energy return, and traction for

long miles on rugged trails.

Merrell's resilient FloatPro TM foam

midsole delivers exceptional

energy return while the added

full-length FlexConnect TM

technology maintains stability

over the long haul.

www.merrell.co.nz

Merrell NEW AGILITY PEAK 6 (women's) RRP $299.00

Designed to be a trail runner's most reliable tool in the

most unpredicatable sport, the NEW Agility Peak 6 delivers

stability, energy return, and traction for long miles on rugged

trails. A forefoot rock plate shields against erratic terrain and

a Vibram® Megagrip outsole with Traction Lug tech offers

superior and unwavering grip on any surface.

www.merrell.co.nz

Xtorm 65W Travel Charger + Cable + Essentials Bag RRP $127.96

Engineered for the perpetually mobile professional, this 65W

charger delivers universal compatibility across continents

without the bulk of traditional adapters. Its streamlined profile

tucks seamlessly into any travel bag, while swappable outlet

configurations ensure reliable power in over 150 countries.

Simultaneously charge multiple devices from flagship

smartphones and tablets to power-hungry laptops and MacBooks

with intelligent fast-charging technology that optimises output

for each device type.

www.outdooraction.co.nz

yeti RAMBLER® 16 OZ FOOD JAR RRP $80.00

YETI’s new ultra-durable, 100%

leakproof Rambler® Food Jars are

designed to keep the heat or hold

the cold wherever your adventure

takes you. Available at: nz.yeti.com

or selected retailers.

nz.yeti.com

real meals

Freeze dried food for adventurers.

Banana Oat Porridge RRP: $17.95

Harraways wholegrain oats with banana and sultanas, cooked

with oat milk, with soft brown sugar and cinnamon.

Pulled Pork $21.95

Succulent slow cooked pork and black beans in a tangy BBQ

sauce.

Chocolate cake pudding $17.95

Rich, moist, chocolate pudding in a smooth, creamy chocolate

sauce.

www.realmeals.co.nz

SALEWA PEDROC 2 POWERTEX® RRP $299.90

The Pedroc 2 Powertex® is a light & fast-moving speed

hiking shoe. Its cushioned EVA midsole delivers optimal

rebound, while the trail running-inspired last and

new Salewa® 3F system ensure dynamic stability and

support. Featuring our waterproof, breathable Powertex®

membrane with PFAS-free water repellent treatment.

Underfoot, the Pomoca outsole with directional lugs

promotes a smooth stride and optimal grip and traction

in varied terrain.

Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 380 g (W) 310 g (pictured)

www.bobo.co.nz/salewa

SALEWA WILDFIRE NXT MID GORETEX® RRP $469.90

Made with a seamless, Kevlar®-reinforced Matryx®

upper to combine hiking comfort with climbing

precision. Equipped with a Custom Fit Footbed Pro for

better arch support and PFAS-free GORE TEX invisible fit

for durable weather protection. Our Salewa® 3F System

wraps the ankle and outer edge of the foot to guarantee

good fit, support and agility, while the unique multi-zone

outsole with Vibram® Megagrip compound provides

secure grip and traction in all conditions.

Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 325 g (pictured) (W) 255 g


SALEWA WILDFIRE 2 LEATHER GORE-TEX® RRP $399.90

Designed to provide the optimal combination of

flexibility, stability, and support, the Wildfire Leather 2

has a sleek, high-quality 1.6mm nubuck leather upper

with a 360° reinforced PU coated rand. The 100%

PFAS-free GORE-TEX® lining ensures waterproof and

breathable protection. The outsole features a climbing

zone and sticky POMOCA® rubber for friction in both

dry and wet conditions, and the adaptable Custom Fit

Footbed can customize the volume for enhanced fit and

precision.

Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 395 g (pictured) (W) 320 g


Summer Adventure Bundle RRP $81.30

Get set for sun-soaked days, wild

adventures and long nights outdoors

with our all-in-one summer kit. This

summer bundle brings together three

powerhouse items to keep you ready for

action, from the bush track to the beach

and everything in between.

• Insect Repel – 100% Natural, Tropical

Strength protection against bites and

buzzing nuisances, so you stay focused

on the fun, not the insects.

• First Aid Gel – A reliable go-to for

scrapes, burns or unexpected knocks. A

soothing, effective antibacterial gel built

for real world use.

• SPF30 Lip Balm – Multi-tasking lip

care: moisture, comfort and broadspectrum

sun protection in one compact

tin

• That's It Canvas Bag to keep it all in.

www.thatsit.nz

Xtorm Rugged Solar Powerbank 10.000 mAh - 20W RRP $207.96

This is the Power Bank for true adventurers! This robust

outdoor Power Bank with a 10.000mAh capacity, 3 USB

ports and 3x more efficient Gen ’24 Solar Panels, is

everything you need during a day of adventuring.

Take this Power Bank with you to the forest, beach, or

on a hike and amaze your company during the trip with

all its extra features. Experience #MoreEnergy during your

outdoor-adventures, whether it lasts a day or the whole

weekend.


SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER 2 MID GORE-TEX® RRP $599.90

Introducing the next generation of our bestselling alpine

trekking boot. This hard-wearing suede leather classic

has a 360° full protective rubber rand and is even lighter

and more flexible than the original. Equipped with

a waterproof, breathable GORE-TEX® Performance

Comfort membrane, a dual density expanded PU

midsole, and a self-cleaning Vibram® WTC 2 outsole,

which is engineered for improved grip and traction

across a wide range of conditions.

Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 600 g (W) 470 g (pictured)


SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 MID GORE-TEX® RRP $479.90

The Alp Trainer 2 Mid GTX has a suede leather

and stretch fabric upper with a protective rubber

rand. Featuring a GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort

lining for optimal waterproofing and breathability,

and the customizable Multi Fit Footbed (MFF) with

interchangeable layers allows you to adapt it to the

unique shape of your foot. Climbing Lacing right to the

toe allows for a more precise fit, while the Vibram® Hike

Approach outsole performs across a wide spectrum of

mountain terrain.

Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 552 g (W) 482 g (pictured)



rab Ramshaw Pull-On RRP $179.95

Easy to layer, it's built with a breathable

grid fleece fabric and a comfortable

relaxed fit that works on and off the

mountain.


Outdoor Research Women's Astroman LS Sun Shirt RRP $199.99

Technical, breathable long-sleeve designed for sunsoaked

adventures with moisture-wicking, quick-dry

stretch, UPF sun protection and pack-friendly fit with

useful pockets.

www.bivouac.co.nz

Outdoor Research ActiveIce Spectrum Sun Hoody

(Men’s & Women’s) RRP $149.99

Cooling, lightweight sun hoody with

ActiveIce tech, UPF sun protection,

breathable stretch fabric and a hood for full

coverage on hot hikes, travel or beach days.

www.bivouac.co.nz

rab Firewall Mountain Jacket RRP $499.95

Fully featured and highly protective,

it uses 3-layer Pertex® Shield

to deflect persistent drizzle and

torrential rain, so you can keep

exploring unfazed.


Outdoor Research Ferrosi Transit Pants (Men’s & Women’s)

RRP $149.99

Lightweight, stretchy pants built from quick-drying,

breathable, weather-resistant Ferrosi fabric with UPF

50+ sun protection, classic 5-pocket styling and agile

travel-to-trail performance.

www.bivouac.co.nz

TRANSPORTER DUFFELS

Built Tough for Every Adventure

From weekend getaways to rugged expeditions, Transporter Duffels

deliver durability without compromise. Made with highly water-resistant

NanoTough fabric that meets bluesign ® CRITERIA, our lightweight

duffels are ready to go wherever adventure calls. Available from compact

carry-ons to expedition-ready gear-haulers.

INSELBERG GAUSS PANT

RRP $220.00

Lightweight softshell pant with

high-stretch for all-season

hiking and climbing.

www.inselberg.com

INSELBERG HEDRON ANORAK

RRP $360.00

Breathable softshell made for

rock climbing, allows easy

movement and protection on

the wall.

www.inselberg.com

INSELBERG AXIOM SHELL

RRP $690.00

Durable waterproof alpine shell

developed with New Zealand

search and rescue for protection

in severe conditions.

www.inselberg.com

INSELBERG pascal hoody

RRP $320.00

Warm, stretchy Polartec®

fleece designed for everyday

hiking, camping, and

dependable outdoor comfort.

www.inselberg.com

OSPRE Y.COM


reviews

Tested by Steve Dickinson

INSELBERG AXIOM SHELL

100% transparency, I am an

Inselberg fan, great Kiwi company,

really leading the way in purpose-

built, cost-effective outdoor wear.

I put the Axiom Shell on properly for the

first time on Ruapehu in summer, and

Ruapehu did what it does best. In the

middle of summer, sideways rain, heavy

wind, temperature swings, and that wet cold

that creeps in once the cloud drops and

everything turns hostile. It was the kind of

day where good gear stops being optional

very quickly.

This shell is clearly built by people who

understand staying out when conditions turn

ugly. The fabric feels confidence-inspiring

straight away. Tough without feeling stiff,

structured without that cardboard sensation

some alpine shells suffer from. The 4-layer

Dermizax system does its job quietly: the

water just runs off, the design pushing

the riverlets away from key areas. More

importantly, it never felt clammy inside,

which in wet weather gear is usually my

breaking point.

I run hot and I usually cook myself five

minutes into a climb. On the Ruapehu push,

I worked hard into the wind and used the pit

zips constantly. The breathability is genuinely

good, and the venting actually works.

That alone puts it ahead of most

shells I have used. It is light enough

to carry but not so lightweight that

it is flappy. You can tell, like all

Inselberg products, they have done

the research.

Fit matters, and this one is dialled in.

I am 173 cm and 82 kg, and the L

gives me room for a proper midlayer

without feeling baggy. Movement

feels natural. No pulling at the

shoulders, no fighting the sleeves.

The hood would have gone over a

helmet if I were wearing one, as it

was, I tightened it up around my cap.

Testing the

Inselberg Axion

Shell at home

before my trip

to Ruapehu

The pockets are well thought through.

High enough to work with a pack,

easy to access on the move, and the

internal mesh stash pocket is one of

those minute details you end up using

all the time. The phone stayed dry.

Snacks stayed dry. No fuss.

After hours in wind and rain there

were no leaks, no cold spots, and no

drama. This is not a fashion shell, and

it is not pretending to be something

it is not. It is a serious alpine jacket

designed for people who keep

moving when the mountain says

otherwise. On Ruapehu, in a proper

summer storm, it earned its place.

NOCS FIELD ISSUE 8X32 BINOCULARS

These Binoculars arrived in a box, funky and

well put together – that was just the box.

The package set a tone for the product, well

thought out and aware of the end user.

I took the binoculars out on a week that

covered just about every kind of adventure:

climbing, checking surf lines from the

headland, and an afternoon watching a

mountain bike event. They’re built for the

sort of person who never stays still long;

they are simply easy to have around, easy to

throw in the car or your pack.

Apart from the colour, the first thing you

notice is the oversized focus wheel. It’s

smooth and deliberate, easy to use even

with cold or wet hands. The image locks in

fast, sharp, and crisp. I spent one morning

glassing potential climbing routes,

and the clarity made it easy to spot

holds and lines from a distance. Later,

scanning the surf rolling in and the

number of people in the water, I could

adjust from near to far with a light turn

of the wheel.

They’re light enough to hang around

your neck, just 473 grams, but solid in

the hand. The rugged wave grip lives

up to its promise; even in drizzle or

dust, there’s no slip. It’s the kind of

detail that only matters when you’re

out there doing it, not talking about it.

Waterproof and fogproof, they handled

sudden weather changes, even getting

in and out of a humid car. I had them

out early in the morning when the mist

still hugged the valley, and the optics

stayed clear.

What really stands out is the glass’s

quality. The HiFi fully multi-coated

lenses and Swiss-designed BaK4 prism

deliver a clean, bright image even

in lower light. The optics feel more

in line with professional gear than

something this compact.

They’ve also thought about how

people actually use binoculars today.

The eyecups twist smoothly with

three stops, which makes them

comfortable whether you wear

glasses or not. I even lined up my

phone for a quick shot through the

lens, simple, effective, and a nice

bonus for anyone wanting to capture

or share a distant view.

There’s a confidence to how these

are built. You can tell they were

designed by people who know

what it’s like to haul gear through

unpredictable terrain. The Field

Issue feels like that balance point

between precision optics and fieldtough

reliability—serious enough

for professionals, light enough for

explorers.

In short, these aren’t showpiece

optics for the coffee table, yet they

still look cool. They’re built for

the trail, the rock face, the ocean

edge, anywhere you need a closer

look. After using them across a few

adventures, I’d call them exactly

what Nocs claim: the Goldilocks of

binoculars. The right size, the right

weight, and the right view, ready for

whatever the day throws at you.


FEED YOUR ADDICTION

Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and

development in online stores over the past 5 years.

We are dedicating these pages to our client’s online stores; some you

will be able to buy from, some you will be able drool over. Buy,

compare, research and prepare, these online stores are a great way to

feed your adventure addiction.

Our ultra-durable coolers, drinkware and bags are the pinnacle

of performance and built for your next adventure.

www.nz.yeti.com

Amazing holidays for active people and those who seek

‘travel less ordinary’. www.wildsidetravel.co.nz

The best outdoor equipment for all of your adventurous

antics. Outdoor Action has you sorted.


World Expeditions specializes in quality small

group trekking and active adventure holidays.

www.worldexpeditions.co.nz

Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality

outdoor clothing, footwear and equipment from

the best brands across New Zealand & the globe.

www.bivouac.co.nz

Premium Freeze-Dried

Meals Perfect For Any

Adventure

www.realmeals.co.nz

Discover Auckland's Hauraki Gulf and

Hibiscus Coast with Hibiscus Jetski Hire.

www.hibiscusjetskihire.co.nz

Top NZ made health supplements delivered straight

to your door, with same day dispatch.

www.supps.nz

This small, friendly family-run company is based in Lake

Tekapo, New Zealand, specializing in guided outdoor

adventures throughout New Zealand's Southern Alps.

www.alpinerecreation.com

The place to go for all the gear you need whether you're

skiing, snowboarding, hiking, biking or just exploring.

www.thealpinecentre.co.nz

Epic skin protection for the naturally adventurous

www.thatsit.nz

Outdoor adventure guiding

company, based out of

Taupo and Ruapehu located

in the centre of the North

Island, specialising in

trekking, hiking and canoeing

adventures throughout the

Whanganui and Tongariro

National Parks.

www.adriftnz.co.nz

An Auckland based fitness

space designed especially

for women.

www.otbhealthclub.nz

Stocking an extensive range

of global outdoor adventure

brands for your next big

adventure. See them for travel,

tramping, trekking, alpine and

lifestyle clothing and gear.

www.outfittersstore.nz

Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,

Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents,

Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.

www.equipoutdoors.co.nz

www.madcampers.co.nz

Kiwi owned and

operated campervan

rental company

providing innovative,

self-contained,

thoughtfully designed

campers to optimize

your experience and

comfort.

Patagonia is a designer of outdoor clothing and gear for the

silent sports: climbing, surfing, skiing and snowboarding, fly

fishing, and trail running.

www.patagonia.co.nz

This 320 acre park of natural beauty is a playground

to immerse yourself in adventure, outdoor education,

relaxation and nature therapy.

www.waipucaves.nz

Bobo Products, a leading importer and distributor of snow

and outdoor products in New Zealand.

www.bobo.co.nz

NZ world class climbing

centre. Your climbing

experience is at the heart of

what they do. They provide

trained and competent

professionals that are psyched

on climbing and passionate

about supporting others.

www.northernrocks.co.nz

Precision-engineered gear for the most demanding alpine

and climbing environments.

www.inselberg.com

South Pacific

Jackie Gurden - Tourism Chatham Is

insiders

guide to

the pacific

Hayden - Niue

Zac Dickinson @flatrocfilms

Ana - Fiji Tourism

The South Pacific is a region this magazine knows well.

We have spent decades moving through its islands,

coastlines and backcountry not as spectators, but as

travellers who value access, local knowledge and

experience over surface level highlights.

That is what this Insider’s Guide is built on.

For this section of Adventure, we have selected nine standout

destinations across the South Pacific. Each offers something different,

but all demand a little more thought than simply booking a flight

and turning up. To do this properly, we approached people we trust.

Locals, long term expats, guides and operators who live there and

move through these places every day. They are the ones who know

when to go, what to bring, where to stay, where to eat and what not

to waste your time on.

This is not about luxury for the sake of it, nor is it about roughing it.

It is about getting the balance right. Knowing which track, reef, village

or coastline, the activity that is worth the effort.

The South Pacific rewards those who arrive prepared and respectful.

With the right insight, your next trip becomes less about logistics and

more about experience.

This guide is designed to give you that edge before you even leave

home.

Tish & Owen @chasing_latitude_

Bianca Henry - Tahiti

Jenny Bourke - Nukubati, Fiji

Samara, Mali Beach Club, Vanuatu

Maddie and Willie Fotofilli- Tonga

Mike Parker-Brown - Solomons


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COOK ISLANDS

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rarotonga

Tish and Owen, from @chasing_latitudes_

Lynn from Captain Tamas

Janna from Ride Raro

"Ikamata – the

best is at

the Saturday

market

Punanga Nui"

What is something travellers often get wrong about this

destination? Getting the day and time wrong both arrival

and departure, its very common.

Bringing food with them. The island has every food

imaginable and three different supermarkets. The fresh

fruit sold by roadside sellers and vendors at the local

markets can;t be beaten and it's cheap

Trying to walk to the top of the island without a guide,

Te Rua Manga (The Needle) tracks are not well marked

and can be slippery; a local gives you reassurance and

safety as well as knowledge and passion for the area.

Which local dish or drink do visitors need to try and

where is the best place to have it? Ikamata – most

restaurants have this but the best is at the Saturday

market Punanga Nui, freshly made by

the locals or an invitation to dinner.

Takitumu Tapas – freshly made bits to

eat using local produce, take away and

head to the beach.

What are the must do activities for

someone visiting for the first time?

Sunday church visit, the best experience

in the Pacific for the volume of the

singing and harmony. Cook Island

Christian Church welcomes everyone.

Muri day trip with Captain Tamas.

Thursday night free fire show at Vaianas

on the beach, local fresh fish, feet in the

sand, watch the sun go down, kids can

play, live music and relax.

Rent an e-bike from Ride Rarotonga and

ride around the island, go on a turtle

tour, do a lagoon cruise, go to an island

night, do a progressive dinner tour

(delicious!), climb up to the needle - the

most beautiful part of the island is in the

mountains, do a reef walk tour

Where is your personal favourite place to eat and why?

Where is your personal favourite place to eat and why?

The Falafel Shack - Middle Eastern food, picnic style,

take your own beverages, alcohol allowed and sit by

the beach. No reservations but understand it takes a

while but well worth it. Just relax and enjoy the beach

or relax under the trees. They also do takeaway…

The Beach Hut located on the beach in Titikaveka,

informal dining, great food and reasonable prices /

Antipodes for a finer dining experience and fantastic

view out over the Pacific.

Tamarind - fantastic food and it's right by the beach.

"Niue has

the most

incredible

'gin-clear'

water,

with up

to 80m

visibility."

The Best way to see Rarotonga

NIUE

Hayden Porter, Marketing, Niue Tourism

What is one experience every visitor should have at least

once? Turtle tour - it's out of this world.

What is the best way for visitors to support local

communities while they are here? Buy locally grown foods

from the roadside and smaller shops. Wigmores onsell fruit

and vegetables flown in from the outer islands.

What should people pack that is specific to travelling here?

Environmentally sunscreen & mosquito repellant.

Shorts, t-shirts and jandals!

What is your single best piece of advice for someone

planning their first trip here? Immerse yourself in island

life, get out of your resort and enjoy everything there is to

offer.

Niue

Family

adventures await

Rarotonga’s only dedicated Bike Shop | Bike delivery available | Sales + Servicing

www.driveraro.com

Book your next bike or e-bike adventure at www.riderarotonga.com

Call 27433 or drop in and see us

In Avarua at the wharf end opposite the Punanga Nui Market

www.rarotongalaundromat.com

www.rarotongabeachapartments.com

What is the one experience here that never makes it into

guidebooks but always blows people away? Niue is the

friendliest place in the world. We say, 'you arrive as a visitor

and leave as a friend', and the local people you meet in

Niue will stay in your heart forever, drawing you back to

Niue for a second, third, tenth visit.

What time of year do you personally think this destination

is at its best and why? Personally I like April / May. It’s just

getting cooler in NZ, it’s still quieter in Niue and cost of

travel is lower and the fishing and diving are still great! The

most popular time to visit Niue is in August and September,

when the migrating humpback whales visit us. Niue is

one of the few places in the world you can swim with the

whales, and they hug the coastline so viewing them from

land is also an everyday treat at this time of the year.

What is the biggest mistake first time visitors make when

they come here? Many visitors don't realise Niue is large -

64km around the island, and there is so much to do. From

enjoying the gin-clear water to treks and adventures on

land, you certainly won't get bored, as there is a surprise at

the end of every sea track. Don't pack too many books to

read... you'll be too busy our exploring everything Niue has

to offer.

Which local dish or drink do visitors need to try and where

is the best place to have it? Niue's honey and vanilla is

recognised as some of the world's best. A lot of cafes and

eateries add these flavours into dishes and drinks, so always

look out for that, an Iced Coffee from Fana Cafe laced with

Niue honey is like liquid gold! All the fish you enjoy in the

cafes and restaurants has been line-caught by local fisherman

too, it will be the freshest wahoo, tuna or mahimahi you'll

ever try.

Where should travellers stay if they want authenticity over

luxury and where should they stay if they want comfort

without losing character? The Scenic Matavai Resort is the

island's only resort style accommodation, but there are

dozens of smaller places to stay within the various villages

around the island. Lau's Getaway and The Breeze in the

village of Avatele offer exceptional sunset views, and if you

time your visit right you may just have whales breaching a

stone's throw away.

Create lifelong family memories with an authentic Pacific Island experience and head to Niue.

You will arrive as a visitor and leave as a friend. It’s safe, warm, no traffic and no queues.

Relax, swim, fish or dive in the clearest waters in the Pacific.

Explore Niue – the way life used to be, the way life should be.

What are the must do activities for someone visiting for the

first time? Niue has the most incredible 'gin-clear' water,

with up to 80m visibility. You can snorkel from the land

at dozens of easily accessible different sea tracks or take a

trip outside the reef with one of our snorkeling operators

and with any luck our resident dolphins may join you for a

swim and play.

niueisland.com


giant banyan tree, tanna

DEP

NZ

Boarding pass / SM / sm s-1876

ARR

energy

revived

Where is your personal favourite place

to eat and why? One of the most iconic

places in Niue, and perhaps the world, is

Washaway Cafe. Only open on Sundays,

Washaway Cafe offers fantastic burgers,

fish focaccias and perhaps the last honesty

bar in the world where you simply help

yourself, then settle up when you leave.

Open for lunch and dinner, more often

than not you'll spend the whole day there

relaxing and snorkeling at Avatele Beach.

What is one experience you think every

visitor should have at least once while

they are here? Head along to a village

Show Day if there's one on. Show Days

are a bit like a school fair, and they also

showcase the most amazing craft, food

and dance the village has on offer. Take

the time to chat to the locals, learn about

their culture and customs, and taste all the

local food on offer... it's always made with

love.

What is the best way for visitors to support

local communities while they are here?

There are a number of different initiatives

Niue has to help protect the island, the

ocean, and its people. Niue Ocean Wide is a

great initiative focused on long term ocean

conservation; Daughters of the Deep helps

provide financial and educational support

for Niuean women interested in pursuing

careers in marine conservation; and the

Rock Vets doing a wonderful job looking

after the local animals.

What is your single best piece of advice for

someone planning their first trip here? You

need a rental car. Niue is large, and is there

is no public transport, so self-driving is the

only option to get around. It gives you the

flexibility to head out and explore all over

the island, but just remember the key road

rule - you need to wave to every car you

pass... as, although you arrived in Niue as a

visitor, you'll be leaving as a friend.

What is something travellers often get

wrong about this destination? Many

visitors think Niue is small, with limited

activity... when in fact, it is the complete

opposite. A week is often not long

enough to truly experience all that Niue

has to offer both on the land and in the

ocean, so plan to stay at least 10 days to

really experience all that Niue is, and to

relax into the laid back way of life.

What should people pack that is specific

to travelling here? Reef shoes are a must,

as you'll often be walking over the reef

to access the various reef pools and caves

(avoiding the live coral of course!). Bring

your own snorkeling gear, as you'll use

it every day; and the big 'must pack' is a

sense of adventure to explore all that Niue

has on offer.

vanuatu.travel/nz


vanuatu

"Make the effort

to venture

beyond Port Vila

and explore at

least one of

the surrounding

islands."

Samara, Owner | Mali Beach Club Vanuatu

What is the biggest mistake first-time visitors make when they come to

Vanuatu? Many first-time visitors underestimate the cost, particularly those

who are used to travelling in Asia. The Pacific isn’t a budget destination in the

same way - tour prices and restaurant meals are more comparable to Australia

or New Zealand. That said, Vanuatu still offers plenty of affordable options,

from budget-friendly accommodation to delicious meals from local market

vendors, if you know where to look.

Which local dish or drink do visitors need to try, and where is the best place

to have it? Trying a shell of kava is about as authentic as it gets - it’s a uniquely

Vanuatu experience that many visitors can’t enjoy back home. Fresh lime juice

is another must-try, especially on a hot day. When it comes to food, dishes like

simboro, organic Santo beef, or freshly caught poulet or tuna are outstanding.

I always recommend lunch at Leo’s Kai Vanua, located within the Regenerative

Vanua precinct at Nambatu. The food is local, seasonal, and absolutely

delicious. Both can be experienced on the Port Vila Tours Tastes of Paradise

Tour.

What are the must-do activities for someone visiting for the first time? Visiting

a local village is a must - especially for families. It’s an incredibly enriching

experience for children, and it’s amazing how easily kids connect and play

together, regardless of where they’re from. These moments often become the

most meaningful memories of the trip.

Where is your personal favourite place to eat, and why? For something truly

memorable, I love taking visitors to Stonegrill. It’s perfectly positioned for

sunset views, and cooking Vanuatu’s famous beef on hot stones is both

interactive and delicious - a dining experience that feels special every time.

What is one experience you think a visitor should do at least once while

they’re there? Make the effort to venture beyond Port Vila and explore at least

one of the surrounding islands. Islands like Pele Island, Nguna, Moso, or

Lelepa each offer something unique, from crystal-clear waters to rich cultural

experiences and hiking. You really can’t go wrong - each one is stunning in

its own way.

What’s another common mistake people make when visiting? Not realising

that many shops close around lunchtime on Saturdays and don’t reopen until

Monday. It’s important to plan ahead if you need supplies - although most

tours and restaurants continue operating as normal.

Is there anything travellers should pack specifically? Definitely pack mosquito

repellent, sunscreen, and reef shoes. It’s also a good idea to bring a few snacks,

like muesli bars, especially if you’re heading out on full-day tours or island trips.

Where should travellers stay if they want authenticity over luxury—and

where should they stay for comfort without losing character? For an authentic

experience, I’d recommend staying one or two nights in a bungalow on a

smaller island, such as Enoch’s Friendly Bungalows on Pele Island. For those

wanting comfort without sacrificing character, there are beautiful villas and

holiday homes like Havannah Boat House or accommodation on Moso Island,

which strike the perfect balance between style and a genuine local feel.


Solomon islands

Zac Dickinson and Mike Parker Brown

The Solomon Islands feel untouched in an increasingly rare

way. This is a place where history has not been packaged or

polished. What you see today feels much the same as it did

decades ago. Life moves at its own pace, shaped by tides,

weather and community rather than schedules. The appeal

is raw and immediate. Dense jungle, warm seas, WWII

relics and a culture that is lived rather than performed. It is

real, sometimes confronting, often humbling, and endlessly

engaging.

What time of year do you personally think this destination is at its best and

why? Any time of year is a good time to visit the Solomon Islands, but if a

fisherman, diver or snorkeller, the best time to visit is from May to October,

the dry season, when humidity is lower, seas are calmer and visibility on

the reefs is excellent and from the perspective of swell, a comfortable time

to travel between islands. It’s the reverse for surfers, November to April

being the optimum time to visit when the Solomon Islands’ northern-facing

reefs being to pump with world-class, and best of all, uncrowded waves.

"Skull Island

from Munda is

essential. It

is unlike any

other place

you will visit."

What is the biggest mistake first-time visitors make when they come

here? Trying to pack too much in. Distances may look short on a map,

but transport runs on island time. The Solomon Islands reward comes in

slowing down, staying longer in fewer places, and letting experiences

unfold naturally.

Which local dish or drink should visitors try, and where? Mud crab at

Fatboys is non-negotiable. Fresh reef fish cooked in an ‘motu’ (earth oven)

or baked on hot stones and ideally in a village setting, paired with kakama

(local greens) and taro. The best drink? Nothing beats a fresh young

coconut straight from the palm tree.

Must do activities for a first visit? Skull Island from Munda is essential. It is

unlike any other place you will visit. Visiting villages to experience true

‘kastom’ culture, trekking, surfing, snorkelling or diving on pristine reefs,

fishing, birdwatching, exploring WWII sites, and spending time on remote

islands where nature is the main attraction.

Your personal favourite place to eat and why? Fatboys again, but the truth

is, food across the Solomons is consistently good if you order smart. Fresh

fish, lobster, crab and tropical fruit dominate menus. Simplicity is the

strength here.

One experience every visitor should have? Kolombangara. The climb is

long and not exceptionally comfortable, but the reward is immense. Misty

forest, birdlife all around and views that feel prehistoric. The guest house is

basic, but sleeping in the trees feels like Jurassic Park brought to life.

In Honiara, Hotomai Cultural Village is a must. It is grounding, educational

and genuine, with kids who will steal your heart in seconds.

Even if war history is not your thing, do a WWII relic tour. Read

beforehand, and it will land harder.

What travellers often get wrong? That

the Solomon Islands is difficult to reach,

unsafe and uncomfortable when travelling

there. The fact that today the Solomon

Islands is one of those rarest of places on

the planet that have escaped mass tourism

makes for authentic experiences.

What is the best way for visitors to support local

communities while they are here? Stay in locally owned

accommodations, use local guides, buy handicrafts directly

from communities, and always show respect for local

customs and traditions.

Best advice for first timers?

Best advice for first timers? Be flexible. The Solomon

Islands run on weather, people, and ocean conditions,

not clocks. Smile, slow down, bring small gifts and let the

place reveal itself on its own terms.


fiji

"the soul of Fiji is

in the people, their

tradition and their

community. "

Jen from Nukubati plus Sonja and Ana from Tourism Fiji

People often think that Fiji equals beaches and cocktails; yes we have

beautiful beaches, but the soul of Fiji is in our people, our tradition and our

community. Travellers who never leave a resort miss out on what makes Fiji

special. Each island is different - Fiji isnt one place, we have 300 different

islands and Vanua Levu, Taveuni and Lau are so different from Denarau,

Mamanucas and Yasawas.

What time of year do you personally think this destination is at its best? Fiji

is at its best during the dry season from May to October. These months bring

warm, sunny days, lower humidity, and cooler evenings. November is often

overlooked but airfares are most affordable as it is the beginning of the

shoulder season, so fares drop drastically.

What is something visitors should know about local customs or etiquette

before they arrive? Fijians are incredibly welcoming, but respect is very

important. When visiting villages, dress modestly (shoulders and knees

covered- women should wear a sulu), remove your hat and sunglasses, and

shoes ifasked, and avoid touching anyone’s head as it’s considered sacred. A

simple Bula goes a long way, and accepting hospitality- like sharing kava- is

a sign of respect and friendship. Respect and humility matter more than being

on time or formality. If a traveller gets this right everything else falls into

place.

Some of the things local wish visitors knew:

Kava isnt just a drink - its a welccome

Dress modestly in a village

Remove your hat when entering a village

Never touch anyone's head

Bring a small sevusevu of kava root if visiting a village for the first time.

One experience that never makes it into the Guidebooks? Dawn dolphin trip

in Natewa Bay.

Biggest mistake first travellers make when they visit Fiji? The biggest mistake

is thinking Fiji is a resort destination. It's not; it's a living culture. Fiji is

outside the resort gates, it's in the villages, markets, backroads and everyday

rhythms of the islands.

Fiijian hospitality is seen as a 'service style' -its not! Its a cultural value that is

steeped in community's idea of family and care.

We have a different relationship to time - sometimes called Fiji Time. We have

the ability to let things unfold naturally so some of the best moments can be

unplanned.

Travellers think authenticity means going without comfort .... in Vanua Levu,

Taveuni or Nukubati, authenticity doesn't mean roughing it. It means staying

somewhere small, personal, and connected to the land and community.

What are the must do activities for someone visiting for the first time?

• Snorkel or dive Fiji’s coral reefs, some of the most vibrant in the world

• Experience a traditional village visit and cultural performance, known as

Meke

• Visit the Mamanuca or Yasawa Islands

• Enjoy Fiji’s natural beauty through waterfalls and rainforests

• Unwind with a Fijian spa treatment using local techniques and ingredients

(such as a Fijian Bobo Massage)

What should people pack that is specific to travelling here? Pack reef-safe

sunscreen, a sarong or wrap for village visits, and insect repellent.

What is your single best piece of advice for someone planning their first

trip here? Slow down and connect with the people. Fiji is not just a place to

see- it’s a place to feel. Take time to talk with locals, join cultural activities,

and embrace ‘Fiji Time’ (as that’s where the most memorable experiences

happen).


tahiti

Bianca Henry, Trade Manager Tahiti Tourisme New Zealand

What time of year do you personally think this destination is at its best and

why? Every single day of the year, there is no bad day in The Islands of Tahiti!

Otherwise, one of my favourite times of the year is July for the combination of

less humidity in the air and cooler evenings, and the Heiva festival, which is a

celebration of Maohi culture with competitions in traditional dance and sports that

the whole population gets very invested in.

What is the biggest mistake first-time visitors make when they come here? A lot of

visitors immediately head out to the islands and miss out on exploring all that Tahiti

has to offer. It’s where you can ride the famous waves of Teahupoo, swim at the

locals’ favourite beaches such as Venus Pointe, find Tahitian arts and crafts at the

Papeete markets, and discover the lush forests of Papenoo Valley. You can also stay

at Tahiti and do day trips with the ferry to the neighbouring Moorea, meaning that

you don’t have to fly between the islands to explore them. I think Tahiti is often

slept on and should be included on every itinerary in The Islands of Tahiti.

Which local dish or drink do visitors need to try and where is the best place to

have it? Raw fish in all its forms. The national dish is called Poisson Cru (which

translates to "raw fish" in French), and the original recipe uses local lime and

coconut milk. You will find it everywhere, and it can be eaten for breakfast,

lunch and dinner. There are many food influences in Tahiti, so there are a lot

of modernised versions to compare to each other, including a Chinese variation

without coconut milk.

There are also all kinds of sashimi and tartare combinations, and lots of restaurants

and the roulotte food trucks offer “Trios” with smaller portions of all the above

served with rice or fries. Make sure you choose the fries!

And always get the French bread, obviously.

What is something visitors should know about local customs or etiquette before

they arrive? French and Tahitian are the most widely spoken languages within The

Islands of Tahiti. While many locals can also speak English, it’s always received

well if pleasantries are spoken in Tahitian. A few basic phrases that will impress

locals include:

Ia orana (yo-rah-nah) - Hello

Mauruuru (mah-roo-roo) - Thank you

E (ay) - Yes

Aita (eye-tah) - No

Nana (nah-nah) – Bye

Where should travellers stay if they want authenticity over luxury and where should

they stay if they want comfort without losing character? My pick for authenticity

over luxury is Maupiti, which locals describe as Bora Bora 50 years ago. There

are no overwater bungalows or luxury resorts, but there are several pensions

(guesthouses run by locals), and it’s the kind of place where everyone knows

everyone, and you’re met with smiles everywhere you go.

My pick for comfort without losing character is Raiatea. I was there a few weeks

ago, and there are some incredible new 3 and 4-star hotels with beautiful design

and amazing food that really exceeded my expectations. Raiatea is also home to

Taputapuatea marae, which is one of the most sacred places in the destination and

is considered to be the birthplace of the Polynesians. Here is where you can also

find the Apetahi flower, which is endemic to one single valley, and you can rent a

stand-up paddleboard to float on the only navigable river in French Polynesia.

What are the must do activities for someone visiting for the first time? Experience

the water from every perspective: whether you snorkel, dive, swim or fly over

"The national dish is

called Poisson Cru

(which translates

to "raw fish" in

French), and the

original recipe uses

local lime and

coconut milk."

it - the waters of The Islands of Tahiti are

unparalleled from every angle. Swimming with

whales was a life-changing experience for me,

but keep in mind that they are only around

between July and November (make sure to

research the island you’re going to). Year-round,

you’ll find turtles, rays and sharks frolicking in

the lagoons and oceans, so there’s plenty of

opportunity to get up close and personal with

these amazing creatures.

Where is your personal favourite place to eat

and why? Current favourites:

Tahiti: Mama’s Beach House at Pointe Venus. I

have a soft spot for Tahiti’s black sand beach,

as I spent a lot of my childhood there. There’s

something special about the early morning and

sunset light reflecting on the super fine black

sand.

Vini Vini. They are a well-known fishmonger

selling directly from the fishermen, and they also

sell all the raw fish dishes. They have multiple

locations and have super fresh Poisson Cru,

sashimi, seared tuna, and so much more.

Yellowfin Restaurant on the waterfront at Marina Taina for fine

dining. Great location and view for brunch as well as dinner. The

food is amazing, and they often have live music.

What is one experience you think every visitor should have at least

once while they are here? If I had to choose only one activity to

do, I’d go for a cultural lagoon tour. These days, canoes have sun

roofs and sometimes hammocks on the sides. The guides will have

a ukulele and sing Tahitian songs as they cruise along the different

hues of blue, stopping for swims and snorkels at coral gardens with

pretty butterfly fish. There is a motu lunch break with BBQ and

fresh fruit. The whole day is the epitome of joyful island living, and

you see the island’s beauty from a renewed perspective. Never gets

old.

What is something travellers often get wrong about this destination?

A lot of travellers think that The Islands of Tahiti only have 5-star

options, but there are actually a lot more affordable offerings for

accommodation and food than you think. I’d suggest checking out

vacation rentals, which offer a great range of pricing and work

really well for a bigger group. Those who want to explore multiple

islands but want to limit domestic flight costs have the option to

explore catamaran cruises, which include food onboard. There are

also many lesser-known 3-star hotels that have opened in recent

years, and in early 2026, a new 3-star overwater bungalow resort

will open in Tahiti. Another consideration is visiting lesser-known

islands or locations where accommodation is cheaper, like Tahiti Iti,

Huahine or the archipelagos beyond the Society islands.

What is the best way for visitors to support local communities while

they are here? When visiting the islands, travellers can support local

not-for-profit organisations through the Hina platform. The initiatives

chosen in the platform include preserving the Polynesian culture,

animal protection and the environment.

There are also several coral adoption programs on the islands, such

as the Coral Gardeners, where guests can donate a coral that will be

grown in the coral gardens and then planted on the reef.

What is your single best piece of advice for someone planning their

first trip here? Book ahead as this is the best way to get the right

room at the right price, and then definitely pre-pay activities if you

want to get as much booked as possible, but try to keep the actual

date of the activity flexible so you can move it, especially if there’s

a rainy day. Give yourself some free time to do nothing and just go

with the flow, as you never know what else you might find!


On Pitt Island’s Waihere Bay (60 million year old rock formations) looking out to Mangere

Island (5 million years old) – photo by Robbie Lanauze

"For travellers

chasing edge rather

than ease, the

Chathams reward

commitment."

CHATHAMS

Jackie Gurden, Tourism Chatham Islands

The Chatham Islands around 800 kilometres east

of mainland New Zealand, isolated, wind shaped,

and stubbornly independent in character. Often

overlooked on the map and misunderstood in

conversation, they are closer to the International Date

Line than Wellington and live by their own time zone.

This is a place where weather arrives unannounced,

roads thin out fast, and the ocean dictates the rules.

The islands feel remote because they are remote, raw,

exposed, and refreshingly unpolished. For travellers

chasing edge rather than ease, the Chathams reward

commitment.

What time of year do you personally think this

destination is at its best, and why? The shoulder

seasons, around April and October, are an ideal

time to visit the Chathams. Unlike a beach resort,

the islands offer year round attractions, and the

experience is just as rewarding outside the busy

summer months. With limited accommodation on

a small island, avoiding peak season visitors will

see and do all the same experiences but with more

availability and less pressure.

What is the biggest mistake first time visitors make

when they come here? Many visitors underestimate

how long it takes to explore the islands, and the value

of joining a guided tour. Although the map makes the

Chathams look small, it typically takes five to seven

days to see the main attractions, especially if including

Pitt Island, which is very different from Chatham

Island and highly recommended. Much of the land,

including beaches, is privately owned, so access must

be arranged in advance and small fees may apply.

Some sites can also be difficult to find. A guided tour

not only simplifies logistics but also enriches the

experience, offering deeper insight into the islands’

history, culture, and environment.

Mauganui Stone Cottage

Northern Volcanoes

Thomas Currell - photo by Jason Blair

Tourism Manager

for Tourism Chatham

Islands, Jackie Gurden, on

the top of Mt Hakepa

The main township of Waitangi, Waihere Bay, Pitt Island

Pitt Island shag – photo by Jason Blair

Where should travellers stay if they want authenticity

over luxury, and comfort without losing character?

The Chathams offer a small but memorable range of

accommodation.

• Hotel Chatham provides everything from single

rooms to motels and luxury suites.

• Awarakau Lodge and Flowerpot Bay Lodge (see

page 90 for more details) on remote Pitt Island offer

immersive, island rich stays.

• For boutique luxury, Kopi Bush Retreat is a

standout.

• For homestay hospitality, Black Robin Homestay

is ideal.

• AirBnB options include Bayview, Owenga

Cottages, and Skirmish Bay Stay.

• The Landing Retreat and Awatotara Cottage are

ideal for remoter stays at either end of the Island.

Traveller’s Rest is an ideal centrally located option

in Waitangi.

What are the must do activities for someone visiting

for the first time? Chatham Islands is about rugged

landscapes, unique geology, sweeping scenery, and

deep cultural connection. Moriori and Māori heritage

is woven through the land, and many sites hold

significant cultural meaning. Must see experiences

include:

• The Basalt Columns at Ohira Bay, featuring

striking pentagonal olivine formations created by

volcanic activity nearly 80 million years ago.

• JM Barker Hāpūpū National Historic Reserve, home

to the remaining Rākau Momori.

• Kopinga Moriori Marae and the Tommy Solomon

Statue, offering insight into the Moriori story.

• Admiral Garden, showcasing endemic species

including the Chatham Islands forget me not.

Other highlights include the shipwrecks at Port Hutt,

the Northern Volcanics lookout, the historic 1860s

Maunganui Stone Cottage, Taniwha/Spatter pillow

lava rock formation, the Sunderland Flying Boat, and

the Point Munning seal colony. A trip to Pitt Island is

highly recommended, with the walk up Mt Hakepa, the

site of the world’s first sunrise. A fishing trip or birding

tour out to the outer islands with Owenga Charters.

Where is your personal unique Chatham Island place

to eat, and why? The River Onion Gallery and Cafe

offers a quintessential Chatham Islands experience. It’s

a place where locals and visitors mingle over coffee,

photography, and art. The retro styled 1970s A frame

building is a delight, with each room telling its own

story, and the eclectic garden adding to the charm.

Check their Facebook page for opening times.

Which local dish or drink should visitors try, and

where is the best place to have it? Seafood is a must;

blue cod, crayfish, and the Hotel Chatham favourite:

paua loaded fries. For a local beverage, try Breezy

Brewery’s lager or IPA, crafted with Chatham Gold

honey and served on tap at the hotel.

Taniwha Rock

Pitt Island wharf – photo by Robbie Lanauze

What is one experience every visitor should have at

least once? The new Chatham Islands Museum is a

must. Though small, it is increasingly being commented

on as being one of the best small museums in New

Zealand. Its displays on local history, environment,

birdlife, geology, and culture are exceptional, providing

visitors with the foundation to understand and

appreciate the islands on a deeper level.


FLOWERPOT

BAY LODGE

Pitt Island, Chatham Islands

“An Oasis in the Sea”

Ake ake at sunset - Photo by Jason Blair

What is something travellers often get wrong about this

destination? Scale. Visitors often misjudge how small the island

is and how few businesses operate here. There's one hotel,

two shops, and a limited number of accommodation providers.

There's no taxis or Ubers, no public transport, and no camping.

Accommodation and airport transfers must be booked in

advance. With around 1,300 visitors a year, this remoteness is

part of what makes the Chathams so special.

What should people pack that is specific to travelling here?

Pack for four seasons. While temperatures are moderate,

conditions can vary across the island and change quickly.

A good raincoat and waterproof walking shoes or boots are

essential.

What is the best way for visitors to support local communities

while they are here? Contribute to the Voluntary Visitor Levy.

Tourism Chatham Islands has established a $25 per person

levy, payable via the donation device at the airport or through

the bank account listed on the website and in the island

brochure. Every contribution directly supports local tourism

initiatives.

What is your single best piece of advice for someone planning

their first trip here? You’re travelling to a place unlike

anywhere else. Life on the Chathams follows the weather and

the rhythm of the islands. Don’t expect rigid schedules or

mainland pace. Let go of expectations, embrace the flow, and

you’ll have an unforgettable experience.

Luxury beachfront accommodation

Full range of activities and tours

Amazing walks, hunting and fishing options

Best spa view in the Chathams

www.flowerpotlodge.co.nz

kiribati

Ana Kevia, repeat visitor

Describe Kiribati

Kiribati is raw Pacific reality. Low lying coral atolls

stretched thin across a vast ocean, where the land

barely rises above the tide and the horizon feels

endless. Life here is shaped by sun, salt, tides and

community rather than schedules. There is very little

polish and that is the point. You notice how quiet it

is first. No resorts dominating the coast, no curated

experiences. Just villages, fishing boats, church

gatherings and kids swimming off wharves.

Chatham Islands

-Closer than you think

Kiribati forces you to slow down. Transport is basic,

food is local, days are dictated by heat and light.

Climate change is not a concept here; it is visible in

eroding shorelines and flooded taro pits. Travel here

is not about ticking boxes. It is about presence. If

you arrive expecting luxury you will struggle. If you

arrive curious and patient, Kiribati offers something

rare: a clear view of how people live when the

ocean sets the rules.

Interesting place to stay.

Terau Beach Bungalow

The bungalows are right on the beach, minimalistic

and simple, yet clean and comfortable. Solarpowered

electricity outlets and mosquito meshes,

and solar fans are available in all of them.

Which local dish or drink should visitors try, and

where? Fresh grilled reef fish with coconut and

breadfruit. Best found at small local eateries in Betio

.

Must do activities for a first visit

Spend time in a village. Walk, sit, talk, fish. Also

snorkel the lagoon when conditions are calm.

Your personal favourite place to eat and why

Small roadside fish grills in Betio. No menu, no fuss,

just whatever came out of the lagoon that morning.

One experience every visitor should have

Watch the traditional dances of Kiribati or ‘te Mwaie

ni Kiribati’ are a unique form of art and expression.

The movement of the feet, hands and of course

the whole body imitates the movement of the

frigate bird and the Pacific golden plover bird while

walking and flying.

"kiribati

rewards

humility."

What travellers often get wrong?

Direct eye contact is uncommon, and it is inappropriate

to look directly at one of higher status. Touching of

heads is considered extremely intimate, and the top of

the head is a taboo area. Similarly, do not raise your

hands/arms above another person’s head (for example

by leaning on a mwaneaba roof).

Don’t walk across or cut between the gaze of talking

individuals. Go around them or stoop or when you do,

bend down below eye level and pass, and use the word

“matauninga.”

Best advice for first timers

Pack patience, respect local customs, dress modestly,

and listen more than you talk. Kiribati rewards humility.


tonga

Maddie and Willie Fotofilli

RUN10023 RUN10023

What is the biggest mistake first-time visitors make

when they come to Tonga? Not understanding

that Tonga runs on “island time” and is guided

by strong cultural values. Visitors sometimes

arrive expecting fast service, rigid schedules,

or a party-island atmosphere. Tonga is relaxed,

deeply respectful, and family-centred. Those who

slow down, dress modestly, and respect local

customs tend to have a far better experience.

Another common mistake is planning too tightly.

Weather, ferries, flights, and events can change, so

flexibility is essential.

Which local dish or drink do visitors need to try,

and where is the best place to have it?

• 'Ota ika – Tonga’s traditional raw fish dish

• 'Otai – a refreshing traditional fruit drink

• BBQ – simple, fresh, and full of flavour

The best place to try these is at family-run

roadside stalls in Nuku'alofa, where food is freshly

prepared and authentically local.

What are the must-do activities for someone visiting

for the first time? In Tongatapu:

• Anahulu Caves

• Mapu'a Vaea Blowholes

• Ha'amonga 'a Maui Trilithon

• Three-Headed Coconut Tree

• Ha'atafu Beach – especially striking with its

deserted resorts along the coastline

If you have the chance to visit Vava'u, you’ll find

more resort-style accommodation and activities like,

• Whale watching

• Swimming with whales (seasonal)

Where is your personal favourite place to eat? We

personally enjoy Kentucky-style fried chicken, which

can be found at many authentic local eateries and is

a popular comfort food among locals.

A must-visit experience is the Katea Resort buffet

dinner, which features traditional Tongan dishes,

fresh seafood, and vibrant cultural performances,

including fire dancing.

What is one experience every visitor should do?

Attend a Sunday church service. Even just once,

the atmosphere and powerful singing offer a deep

insight into Tongan culture and community life.

What is the biggest mistake people

make when visiting?

Not carrying cash- ATMs are

limited and card payment isn’t

always available, especially outside

Nuku'alofa. Relying only on cards

can be inconvenient.

Underestimating Sundays - Many visitors don’t

realise that Sundays are very quiet. All shops,

tours, and restaurants close. Sundays in Tonga

are a scared day of rest and worship.

Anything people should pack specifically?

• Mosquito repellent (essential)

• Light breathable clothes for the heat and

humidity

• Cash - Tonga is heavily reliant on cash

Where should travellers stay?

For authenticity:

• Family-run guesthouses or fale-style

accommodation

These options offer a more self-dependent stay

and a deeper cultural experience. Some can

be nice and others can be rather run down

so do check out reviews. A couple places I

could recommend is Winnie’s BnB and Lulus

Beachhouse.

For comfort without losing character:

• In Tongatapu, the Tanoa International

Dateline Hotel is a popular higher-end option.

It offers helpful staff, a swimming pool, and an

on-site restaurant that remains open to guests

on Sundays—something not always available

elsewhere and tour information.

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