SPRING 2026

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The
Good Life France
ISSUE Nọ 45
ISSN 2754-6799
Magazine
UZÈS
The secret jewel in the
crown of the Gard,
Languedoc-Roussillon
DISCOVER
OCCITANIE
History, heritage and
oodles of charm
HIDDEN
France
Gerberoy, Biot,
Drôme, Allier
MOUGINS
The arty, hilltop village
that’s fairytale pretty
SPOTLIGHT ON
Claude Monet, France
travel trends, Marseille,
French Roman remains
Delicious recipes
Bringing you an irresistible
taste of France
152 156 pages
Of inspirational features
and gorgeous photos

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wel comes you !
Bonjour and bienvenue,
Welcome to The Spring 2026 issue of The Good Life France
Magazine.
This is your invite to wander around France seeking out hidden
gems alongside the icons you can never tire of revisiting.
Explore the honey-coloured beauty of Uzès in southern France,
the arty streets of sun-kissed Biot on the French Riviera,
picturesque Mougins in Provence, and the fairy tale beauty of
Gerberoy in Picardy.
Discover France’s great showstoppers. From the riot of colour at
Monet’s garden in Giverny, to the raw, sun-bleached energy of
Marseille, from wild-edged escapes in Brittany to the spiritual
calm of Vézelay in Burgundy, and the quietly captivating
landscapes of Allier in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, as well as the
mountain beauty of the Belleville Valley, historic Occitanie, and
Isère. Plus, we look at travel trends in France including Corsica,
Normandy, and the Loire Valley.
Culture lovers, you’re very much at home here. Explore Roman
sites across France, the magnificent Baroque architecture
of Paris, uncover the elegant history of toile de Jouy - the
patterned fabric loved by Queen Marie-Antoinette, follow
the scented trail of the famous violets of Toulouse, and step
into the ancient rhythms of the French transhumance, where
shepherds and their flocks still migrate with the seasons.
You’ll also find practical guides, plus delicious French recipes
that will bring the exquisite flavours of France to your kitchen
The magazine is completely free, written by the crème de la
crème of travel writers — people who know France not just as
a destination, but as a land of journeys and experiences where
memories are made.
Whether you’re planning your next adventure, reminiscing
about past visits, or simply indulging in a bit of armchair
escapism, we’re thrilled to have you with us.
And now – it’s time to enjoy this magazine which is also free to
subscribe to, just hop on to page 4 and sign up! And please do
share this issue with your friends – that’s free too.
I wish you a very happy spring.
Bisous from France,
Janine
Janine Marsh
Editor
Bienvenue
Follow us on Twitter,
Instagram & Facebook
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Contributors
8
CONTENTS
The Good Life France Magazine
No. 45 Spring 2026
ISSN 2754-6799
ON THE COVER
8 Uzès
The secret jewel in the crown
of the Gard, Languedoc-
Roussillon.
30 Mastering Monet
Celebrating the art of
Monet, 100 years after his
death.
Rudolf Abraham is an
award-winning travel writer,
photographer, author of
over a dozen books and has
contributed to many more.,
and his articles and images
are published widely in
magazines.
Rudolfabraham.com
Sue Aran is a writer,
photographer, and tour guide
living in the Gers. She is the
owner of French Country
Adventures, which provides
personally guided, smallgroup,
slow travel tours into
Gascony, the Pays Basque,
Provence and beyond.
Annaliza Davis is an editor,
translator, and writer. She
lives in Brittany after falling
in love with the area on a
school exchange and loves
to explore the coast with her
scruffy dog Mimi!
Dana Facaros has lived in
France for over 30 years.
She is several guidebooks
and the creator of French
Food Decoder app:
everything you want to know
about French food.
Jeremy Flint is an awardwinning
photographer
(Association of Photographers
Discovery Award Winner,
National Geographic Traveller
Grand Prize Winner, and five
times finalist Travel Photographer
of the Year), and writer
specialising in travel, landscape
and location photography.
36 France Travel Trends
Discover some of the key
destinations for quiet escapes,
personalised journeys and slow
discoveries.
52 Spotlight on Occitanie
Breath-taking landscapes,
exceptional heritage,
gastronomy and wine.
DISCOVER
Christine McKenzie is a
Franco-British journalist. Her
stories have been published in
anglophone and francophone
media. Married to a
Frenchman, she settled 30
years ago near Fontainebleau.
Ally Mitchell is blogger and
freelance writer, specialising
in food and recipes. Ally left
the UK to live in Toulouse in
2021 and writes about her new
life in France on her food blog
NigellaEatsEverything.
Anna Richards is a writer
& guidebook author living in
Lyon. Her work has appeared
in Lonely Planet, National
Geographic and many more.
www.annahrichards.com
Freelance journalist Karen
Tait has been Editor of French
Property News for over 20
years and contributes to titles
such as The Sunday Times.
Gillian Thornton is an
award-winning travel writer
specialising in French
destinations and lifestyle.
Her favourite place? ‘Usually
where I have just been!’
18
18 Gerberoy in Picardy
The ‘smallest town in France’
– and one of the prettiest.
24 Spotlight on Biot
A medieval gem on the
French Riviera.
The Good Life France Magazine
Front Cover: Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Published by: TGLF Media Ltd.
Editor: Janine Marsh, editor@thegoodlifefrance.com
Advertising & Enquiries: Trudy Watkins, trudy@thegoodlifefrance.com
Layout design: Philippa French littlefrogdesign.co.uk
ISSN 2754-6799 Issue 45 Spring 2026
30
42 Marseille
France’s capital of cool and
culture.
46 The Roman Empire in
France
Step back in time to discover
the Roman legacy.
58 Mansart – the designer of
icons
The life and style of King
Louis XIV’s architect.
4 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 5

66
62 Transhumance in the
Auvergne
A 1000-year-old tradition
in France.
66 Discover Vézelay
The pickled-in-the-past town
is divine!
72 Allier – a secret part of
France
Stunning countryside,
medieval villages and a spa
town fit for royalty.
78 The tranquil Tarn
Off the beaten track in the
south of France.
112
128
REGULARS
118 What’s new
All the news and events you
need for your next trip to
France.
154 Last word
Life in a rural French community.
GUIDES
122 Dordogne – living la belle vie
The laidback lifestyle is a big
lure.
128 How to have a home in Paris…
… at a fraction of the price
84 Toulouse – the city of
violets
Discover the southern city’s
floral charms.
88 Belleville Valley
The alpine paradise is
perfect for lovers of nature
and the great outdoors.
132 Spotlight on the Drôme
Sun-kissed villages, lavender
fields and vineyards.
138 Meet the Gîte Gurus
A must-read for gîte owners, and
would-be gîte owners.
BON APPÉTIT
94 Toile de Jouy
The elegant textile that’s oh
so French – and timeless.
143 Carrot, honey, and harissa
galette
A tasty and totally delicious
snack!
78
100
100 Mougins, Provences
The little village is a feast for
the senses.
104 Isère
Dramatic mountains,
stunning scenery and
fantastic flavours .
110 Brittany
5 top spots to visit in the
spring.
PHOTO SPECIALS
116 France Calendar
Spring in France – blossoms,
roses and outdoor café
lifestyle.
150
144 Beef Daube
A classic dish of Provence.
146 Vegetable tian
Slow-cooked flavours make this
an outright winner.
148 Choux Chantilly
An iconic French treat.
152 Gateau Basque
The ‘any time of the day’ cake of
France.
4 Subscribe to The Good Life
France Magazine
Everything you want to know
about France and more –
subscription is totally free.
6 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 7

Winding streets of Uzès
50 years after Christ died, to Nimes. In the
Middle Ages, Uzès was prosperous and thrived.
But after World War II, the population was in
decline and the old buildings suffered from
a lack of investment and preservation. You’d
never know it today – it’s one of the most
beautiful towns in France.
What to see and do in Uzès
In the centre of the inner old district stands
an enormous feudal castle, Le Duché (Duchy)
home of the Dukes of Uzès, who can trace their
ancestry back to the Emperor Charlemagne
(748-814). Their family resides here still, and
the grandmother of the current Duke was
instrumental in helping to achieve “protected
area” status for Uzès in 1964 which led to its
stunning restoration and preservation.
Place Aux Herbes, Uzès
Uzès
The secret jewel in the crown of
the Gard, Languedoc-Roussillon.
Via roads that climb over stony hills and
plateaus of wildflowers and herbs, past the
gorges of the River Gardon, and across
a quaint 13 th century bridge – the Pont St
Nicholas, built by monks (who also built the
Pont d’Avignon) you reach Uzès, a pickled in
the past oasis says Janine Marsh as she falls
head over heels for its charms.
Sometimes I visit somewhere and have to ask
myself, how is it that I have never been here
before, that I didn’t know how stunning it is.
Uzès is one of those places. A town where
ancient mulberry trees grow in the cobbled
streets and birds sing in plane trees, where
medieval stone buildings are cared for with
passion, and a love of art de vivre (the French
art of living well), influences the way of life.
The Romans founded Uzès (Uzes-pontdugard.
com/en) when they came to channel the
water from the nearby River Gard via a
50-kilometre-long aqueduct, which included
the magnificent Pont du Gard built around
The Duchy of Uzès – the flag flying indicates the Duke is home!
8 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 9

The Duchy has a bit of a fairy tale feel to it,
enclosed behind high walls, the red and gold
ducal flag flies from a tall tower when the
Duke is in residence. There’s a vast courtyard
with a pretty garden to one side, and all
around are buildings of different epochs
including an 11 th century keep and Tour of
Bermonde, which was renovated by Violletle-Duc
after it was damaged in the French
Revolution (he also restored the Cathedral
of Notre Dame in Paris, and the Citadel of
Carcassonne). Climb the 135 steps of the
winding staircase for a bird’s eye view over
the town and surrounding countryside. There’s
also a Gothic chapel and a dazzling roof of
coloured tiles depicting the ducal crest which
was added in the 1800s.
The part where the family now live has a
Renaissance façade and you can visit lavishly
furnished rooms with red and gold upholstery,
tapestries, paintings chandeliers, grand
fireplaces and admire the family crest woven
into an opulent carpet “ferro non auro” (iron
not gold), indicating their warrior status.
A guided tour will reveal the history of the
Grand salon © Destination Pays d'Uzès Pont du Gard, Florence Gay
Streets festooned with flowers and fauna
Duchy and the family, including the feisty
Duchess Anne, heiress to the Veuve Cliquot
Champagne fortune, who was the first woman
in France to get both a driving licence, and a
speeding ticket when in 1898 she drove her car
in a Parisian park at 15km per hour breaking
the speed limit of 12km per hour!
Market Day
Around the Duchy winds a labyrinth of
narrow cobbled streets that are lined with
ancient mansions, some with domed towers
(an indication of wealth in days gone by),
and if you book a guided tour at the Tourist
Office – you’ll be able to go inside private
courtyards from the Middle Ages and days of
the Renaissance. Uzès had a strong merchant
economy for centuries and was a centre of
textile and silk production in the 17th century
- you’ll spot mulberry trees in the town
(silkworms feed on their leaves), a reminder of
the past.
The lovely central square Place aux Herbes is
a great place to take a break with its fountain
and medieval arcades all around. It’s also
home to a twice-weekly market (Wednesday
and Saturday). Bordered by restaurants and
bars, it’s a great place from morning to night
when locals gather for aperitifs, to dine al
fresco, and kids play in the square under
the shade of plane trees in which fairy lights
twinkle. The square host a vibrant calendar
of events too including a truffle day, craft
markets on Sundays, Christmas market, and
medieval festival.
In the enchanting Medieval Gardens, more
than 450 plant species are grown, used for
medicinal purposes in the Middle Ages – the
The stunning medieval gardens – art, culture and magnificent plant displays
guide told me they have a plant which was
used to get rid of warts – which when rubbed
with the leaves would drop off! Sculptures sit
alongside lemon trees and madrigal plants,
there are regular exhibitions, and you can
climb the Kings Tower for panoramic views and
to see the extraordinary medieval graffiti from
a time when it functioned as a prison. There’s
also a lovely café – and a refreshing liquorice
and lemongrass herbal drink is offered as part
of your visit. You can easily spend a couple
of hours here and lose yourself in the lush
verdant beauty of this ancient garden.
The beauty of Uzès has long inspired artists
10 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 11

View over Uzès, Tour Fenestrelle, the former Cathedral and Bishop’s Palace in the background © Destination Pays d'Uzès Pont du Gard, Florence Gay
Evening on the Place Aux Herbes is magical with twinkling lights in the plane trees
former 17 th century Bishop’s Palace is now a
museum with an archaeological collection
from pre-history to the Gallo-Roman period,
and a fascinating collection of artefacts
depicting the life of Uzès and its people
through the centuries.
Jeweller Bénédikt Aïchelé
Painter David Jamin
and there are numerous galleries and ateliers
in the centre. Jeweller Bénédikt Aïchelé has
stores in Paris and Brussels, but it’s Uzès
where he is inspired by the light “it’s not like
anywhere else” he says, “Even in winter, it
brings out the colours of the day and puts you
in a good mood.” Painters David Jamin and his
daughter Lola, love Uzès’ laidback ambiance
and welcome visitors to view their art in a
gorgeous gallery in a stunning old building.
The town once had ramparts, but they were
destroyed by order of King Louis XIII and his
chief Minister Cardinal Richelieu as part of
their campaign against Huguenot strongholds.
Where the ramparts once stood is now a wide
boulevard dotted with a few of the ancient
towers that survived the upheaval. Lined
with shops, bars and restaurants encircling
the inner ancient town, look out for the Tour
Remains of the Roman tunnel which fed water along the
Pont du Gard and into Nimes, Eure Valley
Fenestrelle, a 12th century bell tower six
storeys high with a coloured tile roof. It’s
unique in France though common in Italy, and
was once part of a Romanesque cathedral
that was ransacked by the Huguenots.
Next to it is a 17 th century former Cathedral
(now church), from where there is a
tremendous view over the Eure Valley
along the esplanade. And next to that, the
A more modern must-see is the Haribo
Museum on the outskirts of Uzès, as it’s here
that the sweet things that please the sweettoothed
around the world are produced.
There’s also the Musée 1900, just 3km from
Uzès in the town of Arpaillagues, which has
an eclectic collection from the beginning of
the 20th century, including cars, horse-drawn
carriages, fire engines, tractors and objects of
everyday life – a whopping 3700 items!
Veer a little further into the countryside to
discover the lush Eure Valley, where you’ll find
the perfect place to picnic in nature, amongst
remnants of Roman tunnels which once
carried the water to the Pont du Gard and on
to Nimes.
Foodie Uzès
Uzès embraces art de vivre, and there are
so many great restaurants it’s hard to know
where to start. In the old town Les Terroirs
Café life on the Boulevard where the ramparts once stood
in Place aux Herbes has fabulous food and
a view over the famous fountain. Nearby,
restaurant La Villa Curti with its vine covered
courtyard, is like taking a holiday for a couple
of hours!
The Vieux Café on the plane tree lined
boulevard has a totally different vibe, great
for people watching beer and tapas. And
the Bistro du Chai across the road is utterly
delicious. Opened in summer 2025 it’s gained
a stellar reputation with the locals - in a town
that already has a great choice of restaurants,
that’s a real achievement.
For something a bit different, take a 15-minute
drive on the Pont du Gard route to the
12 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 13

Pont du Gard, just 20 minutes by car from Uzès
Pont du Gard one of the most famous sites near Uzès
fabulous Les Companons du Terroir, which
ttakes you past the Haribo factory and
museum, where you’ll find a gourmet paradise
of local produce, with a wine tasting bar and
a seriously impressive pop-up restaurant on
a sunny terrace. You’ll find everything here
from local cheeses like Pélardon, one of the
oldest goats’ cheeses in Europe, charcuterie,
chocolate, honey, sweets, olive oil, truffles,
Camargue salt, and more than 600 wines –
it’s the perfect place to enjoy a taste of the
region (and to buy souvenirs).
Also 15 minutes from Uzès, the Domaine de
Panery with its vast vineyards and olive groves
has a dazzling restaurant, with a menu of
local, seasonal dishes. Take a wander in the
vineyards, visit their extraordinary art gallery
and enjoy a taste of country life.
Where to stay:
In the inner town: Boutique Hôtel Entraigues
**** opposite the cathedral, in a beautiful
old building with a roof top pool. It’s relaxing,
luxurious and cool!
In the outer town: Two steps from the old town,
the 3* L’Hostellerie Provençale is the oldest
hotel in Uzès and has been welcoming guests
for 300 years – expect quirky rooms with
vintage décor.
Tip: Pick up a City Pass online or at the Tourist
Office – it includes a guided tour and entry
to 10 must-see sites from the Duchy to Pont
du Gard, museums and exhibitions. In 2026,
there will be an exhibition at the Bishop’s
Palace dedicated to the history of Uzès.
Personalised visits
The super helpful tourist office based in Uzès
can help organise your stay from airport
shuttles to accommodation, private tours in
Uzès and further afield including Aix, Avignon
and Marseille, hire cars, even babysitters. Find
out more: uzes-pontdugard.com/en/groupe
Around Uzès:
The Uzège
The countryside around Uzès – where fields
of asparagus, cherry orchards, forests of
truffle oaks and vineyards alternate with
garrigues – is dotted with delightful old
villages. Arpaillargues, 4km wet on the D982,
has the added attraction of the Musée
1900 (15 Chemin du Moulin, musee1900.
com) at Moulin de Charlier, one man’s
amazing lifetime accumulation of period
cars, motorcycles, gramophones, movie
posters, locomotives and more. Just west of
Arpaillargues, the walled hilltop hamlet of
Aureilhac has a superb view of Uzès’ skyline.
Some 9km northwest of Uzès, off the road
to Alès, Aigaliers, with its medieval lanes,
dungeons, Saracen wall and Romanesque
church all piled under a ruined castle, has long
been a favourite subject of local painters.
The clay-rich soil north of Uzès has provided
St-Quentin-la-Poterie – where the locals are go potty for pottery!
14 th century floor tiles made
fin St-Quentin-la-Potterie
for the Palace of the Popes
in Avignon
St-Quentin-la-Poterie with
its vocation since the cows
came home, and in some
strange tangential way
inspired its most famous
son, Joseph Monier (1823-
1906), to invent reinforced
concrete. After producing
thousands of amphorae,
roof tiles, bricks, ceramic
14 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 15

L’Étang de Capelle, the
lake and surrounding
countryside are a haven for
wildlife and nature
pies and all the glazed tiles for the floors of
the Popes’ Palace in Avignon, the last ceramic
factory closed in 1974; but in 1983 the kilns
were fired up again as the village made a
concerted effort to bring the potters back.
There are 15 now living in the village yearround;
you can visit their workshops or get an
overview of their work at Terra Viva (14 Rue
de la Fontaine galerie-terrvaviva.com). The
adjoining Musée de la Poterie Méditerranéene
(muse-poterie-mediteranee.com) has a
wonderful selection of examples of pottery
from all over the Mediterranean, in a beautiful
variety of glazes.
East of Uzès, strange sandstone formations
and quartzite quarries mark the environs of
St-Victor-des-Oules, ‘of the posts’, another
pottery village, this one specialising in
stoneware (grès). Paths lead up to Mont Aigu,
for scant ruins of a 5 th -century BC oppidum
and superb views of the Cévennes to the west.
Further east, the 12 th- century château in La
Capelle-Masmolène was the summer palace
of the bishops of Uzès.
Lovely Lussan is 18km north of Uzès, but well
worth the detour; a nearly perfect unspoiled
medieval village perché below a 13 th century
château. Near Lussan, the sheer gorge of
the River Aiguillon, Les Concluses, makes a
magnificent and easy walk in the summer
Lussan © Andrea Jobst, DPUPG,
Uzes-Pont du Gard Tourisme
when the river is dry, with potholes (marmites)
formed by the river, eagles’ nests and a
remarkable steep and narrow portail that
closes in on top. Leave your car in one of the
car parks along the D643; the walk takes
about 30 minutes.
Extract from Languedoc-
Roussillon, by Dana Facaros
& Michael Pauls with Jane
Falkner, published by
Bradt (bradtguides.com) in
paperback, £18.99 (ISBN 9781804692806)
16 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 17

Roses everywhere in Gerberoy
The Blue House, Gerberoy
It may not take long to walk its cobbled streets
but there is much to make you linger longer.
The rue du Logis du-Roy – which takes its name
from a former inn where King Henri IV stayed
in 1592 - is the main entrance to the fortified
town which spirals around a hilltop location
with magnificent views over the surrounding
countryside. The origin of the name of
Gerberoy isn’t known, but it’s thought to come
GERBEROY:
the “smallest town
in France…”
...and one of the prettiest
This pickled-in-the-past, photogenic
village of ancient half-timbered houses
may be small, but it makes a big
impression says Janine Marsh.
Tucked away on the southern edge of the Oise
department in Picardy, almost on the border
with neighbouring Normandy, Gerberoy
claims to be the ‘smallest town in France’ - a
title it was granted in 1202 by King Philip
Augustus. It’s also officially one of the prettiest
villages of France (Plus Beaux Villages listed)
and a ‘ville de roses.’
18 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 19

from the old French word ‘gerber’ meaning to
gather into a sheaf – the town’s Coat of Arms
features three gold sheaves of wheat - though
it was briefly renamed Gerbe-la-Montagne
during the French Revolution when any names
associated with hated royals (roy meaning
king) were ‘cancelled.’
The village’s position made it a popular target
– including from the Vikings who came up
the Seine River on raids in the 10th century,
and even after, when they were granted
neighbouring Normandy as a settlement.
William the Conqueror laid siege to the town
in 1078 and lost to his own son William Rufus.
And it was fought over during the 100 Years
War – the English were defeated here on May
9, 1453, against a French army led by two
former companions of Joan of Arc who had
been executed four years earlier in nearby
Rouen. Pillaged many times over, its castle
destroyed, and with a population decimated
by plague, Gerberoy went into decline and
disappeared from history in the 17th century.
And there it stayed until a famous artist
arrived and changed Gerberoy’s fortunes.
Gorgeous gardens of Henri Le Sidaner
Macarons de Gerberoy
What to see in Gerberoy
Colourful Norman-style timber-framed 17th
and 18th century houses line the cobbled
streets, one of the most famous being the
‘blue house’ next to a towered gate that
led to the former castle. Dating to 1691,
the postcard-pretty house has always been
painted blue using dye made from woad which
was grown in abundance in Picardy in the
Middle Ages.
Narrow alleyways festooned with flowers
and dotted with tea rooms, artists galleries,
cafés and restaurants snake their way round
the village. The 17th century market halls
and landmark historical stone-built covered
wells are superbly preserved, and the
collegiate church of Saint-Pierre, rebuilt in
the 15th century after being burned down by
the English, and whose walls are hung with
Aubusson tapestries, is well worth a visit.
Statue of Henri le Sidanier in the garden
“I will probably still think on the last day when I disappear, of the humblest
dwelling in Gerberoy, where clumsy fingers come to hang on the window shutters
the single flowering stem that a cluster of roses will have weighed down…” –
Henri Le Sidaner
The rose festooned terrace of the Jardin des Ifs
But the town’s big claim to fame is the former
home and glorious gardens of renowned post-
Impressionist painter Henri Le Sidaner (1862-
1939), who fell under Gerberoy’s spell when
he visited in 1901 and soon-after, longing to
live a country life, bought a beautiful house
there when his friend, the sculptor August
Rodin, urged him to follow his dreams. Then,
as now, it looked as if nothing had changed for
hundreds of years. Sidaner painted the tranquil
beauty of the village over and over and
created stunning terraced gardens over the
ruins of the castle, which became a source of
inspiration for his art, just as his contemporary,
20 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 21

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Claude Monet’s garden in Giverny (around
40 miles away) had become his muse. You
can visit the gardens today and peep into the
artist’s studio, but the house is closed to the
public, still lived in by the artist’s descendants.
Lesjardinshenrilesidanier.com
Sidaner proposed to the residents that
everyone should plant climbing roses and they
loved his idea. Eventually the town council
passed an official decree which required
everyone to grow roses! In 1928, the first Fête
des Roses was held, and it has taken place
every year since, on the third Sunday of June,
bringing thousands of visitors to this tiny town.
There are now thousands of rose bushes
climbing up walls, draped over fences and
fringing windows throughout the town, as well
as hydrangeas, hollyhocks and country garden
favourites sprouting from the roadsides.
A short stroll away lies the Jardin des Ifs,
which became a Jardin Remarquable in
2016 in recognition of its rare collection of
yew trees. These 18th-century symmetrical
gardens are decorated with topiary of various
shapes and sizes including one 350-year-old
shaped tree (the oldest topiary in France), and
so large several people can stand inside it. It
also has a pretty vegetable garden and roses
of all kinds. Take a tour and stop for a meal at
the restaurant in the former Governor’s house
with its ancient dining room, and don’t miss a
chance to taste the Gerberoy macarons made
by the chef who was inspired by a 13th century
recipe. They’re rose flavoured of course, and
taste of a sunny day in June in this most pretty
village. lejardindesifs.com
With only about a hundred inhabitants,
Gerberoy can seem a little sleepy during the
week (except when the rose festival is on),
but this makes it even more magical. There
are no traffic lights, no telephone poles or
electric wires overhead – the town protects its
heritage.
Parking within the village is prohibited
during the peak season months, there
is a free car park just a few steps from
the town, past a duck pond where the
residents will applaud your entry!
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22 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 23
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CHATEAU OF VILLANDRY

Spotlight on Biot,
French Riviera
The hilltop village of Biot sits
between glamorous Cannes and
picturesque Cagnes where Renoir
lived out his last years, a little off the
beaten path, it’s well worth seeking
out says Janine Marsh.
The Romans came here in the second century
BC, defeating the local tribes who had been
there long before them, and making use of the
local clay soil which was perfect for making
wine and oil jars. Just a few kilometres from
Antibes (which the Romans called Antipolis),
on the Mediterranean Sea, Biot was then as
now, in a covetable location.
After a spell in the middle ages when the
village was devastated by plague, taken over
by bandits and then repopulated in the 15 th
century with families from Genoa (a common
theme at this time in the area), life settled
down and pottery production once again
became a main industry. Biot has reinvented
itself several times over. When the pottery
industry declined, the people turned to
wine and horticulture for several decades
(Grasse the capital of the perfume industry
is close by). Today, Biot is famous for its glass
production and arts and crafts and modern
artist Ferdinand Leger.
What to see and do in Biot
Green-fingered locals have given the village flowery fairy tale vibes
Cobbled streets of Biot
The Musée National Fernand Leger is the
star attraction in Biot, yet there is infinitely
more to this lovely ancient, cobbled village.
Steep steps and labyrinth-like streets snake
up from the base of the hill and all is draped
with flowers, climbing plants and wall pots.
Tiny gardens are nurtured in every nook
and cranny by green fingered villagers
creating a fairy tale ambience. Vibrant,
colourful art is in abundance here, from the
workshops and galleries of local artists to
the decorated streets.
Pop into the historic Sainte Marie-Madeleine
Church, rebuilt in the 15th century on the
ruins of a 12th century Romanesque church
which was likely built on top of a Roman
temple. You can reach the beach in just 15
minutes from Biot, there’s a bus service from
the village. From spring to autumn there’s
a packed programme of events including
evening art exhibitions every Thursday (July
and August) and fashion shows. There are
plenty of bars and restaurants, gourmet food
shops (don’t miss the chocolaterie where
master chocolate maker Marc Saint-Saëns
creates mouth-watering sweet things). And
there are several hiking paths around the
village which take you through pine forests
and oak groves, alongside the Brague River,
24 | The Good Life France
Art is everywhere in Biot
The Good Life France | 25

Historic Sainte Marie-Madeleine Church
he collected their art, some in exchange
for accommodation and meals, some
he purchased. It’s a most extraordinary
private collection.
In the town there are numerous artists
from painters, including Jean-Philippe
Ghiglione, famous for his crimson poppy
art (and a very welcoming resident!),
ceramicists, jewellers, sculptors, and more.
Pop into the little Museum of History and
Ceramics to admire a superb collection of
jars. It wasn’t just the Romans who made
use of the clay here, the town was a centre
of jar making from the 1500s to the end of
the 19 th century. The museum also houses
a fabulous collection of ceramic indoor
fountains (entertainment before TVs!).
Biot is also
famous for its
glass-blowing –
with four glass
factories at
the foot of the
old village. The
oldest of them,
the Verrerie
de Biot was
Bubble glass at Verrerie de Biot
founded in
the 1950s by Eloi Monod, an engineer who
mastered the art of glass making and, finding
an impurity in a piece of glass, turned it on its
head and invented bubble glass. They have
a fabulous workshop where you can watch
master glass blowers turn balls of glowing
glass into delicate goblets and luminous
sculptures (it takes at least 10 years to master
the art of bubble glass). There are some 200
different models, each individual piece is
checked by an expert known as “the eye” to
ensure they are perfect.
There’s a fantastic shop full of things you
will want to take home, including tableware
that glows in the dark and looks as if the sun
of southern France has been trapped in the
glass! There’s also a fascinating museum of
glass, showcasing the evolution of the craft.
And there is the International Glass Art Centre
where the most amazing glass artworks by the
world’s most prominent glass artists, are on
display with a new exhibition each year.
It was the arty vibe of Biot that captivated
Fernand Leger in the 1950s. Born in
Normandy, Leger was a painter, sculptor and
film maker; he also founded the Academy
of Modern Art in 1924 in Paris. In 1949 he
founded a small ceramic workshop in Biot, and
a few months before his death in 1955, bought
a villa at the foot of the village. His wife Nadia
Khodasevich Léger decided to build a museum
where the workshop was, as a tribute to Leger.
The Musée National Fernand Léger opened
during the Cannes Film Festival in 1960
under the patronage of Picasso, Braque and
Chagall, the first modern art museum in the
French Riviera. Nadia donated the land, the
villa next to it and more than 300 artworks to
the state which took over the museum. Leger’s
Restaurant and Hotel Les Arcades
past waterfalls, old mills, and traces left by
the Romans.
I stayed at the Hotel Les Arcades in the Place
des Arcades. The 15 th century building has
the most extraordinary rooms – mine had a
4-poster bed, ancient fireplace and an air
of antiquity you only get from the real thing.
There’s a lovely little restaurant downstairs, its
tables spilling into the street. And in the cellar
is a secret that’s revealed to guests.
Artist Jean-Philippe Ghiglione, famous for his poppies at his Biot studio
Many artists and writers have fallen under the
spell of Biot. Les Arcades restaurant, once a
tabac owned by André Brothier in the early
1950s was sought out by Fernand Leger to
accommodate the artists working with him,
and Brothier transformed the building into a
hotel and restaurant welcoming many artists
over years, from Picasso to Chagall - and
The Musée National Fernand Léger
Watch master glass blowers create luminous
26 | The Good Life France sculptures at Verrerie de Biot
The Good Life France | 27

Bastide du Roy Golf Club
Café de la Poste
artwork has grown more and more popular,
and in 2008 one of his paintings sold for
almost 40 million dollars.
You can’t miss the museum, the bright colours
that Leger is famous for can be seen from far
away as the sun glints on the mosaic’d façade
– 45,000 pieces of marble and enamel,
created from a design by Leger to decorate
the entrance of the Hanover Stadium 6
months before his death. Inside are multiple
works of art – cubist, ‘tubist’ (his own form
of cubism) abstract masterpieces. Even if
you’re not a fan of modern art, this place is
impressive, and you can trace the evolution of
his art from Impressionism through Cubism,
vivid abstracts for which he’s best known,
machinery and robot-like figures. You’ll find
cubes, cogs, machines and mosaics, paintings
and sculptures, including some created by his
disciples – a dazzling tribute to the artist who
wanted to “set colour free.”
Locals love – Café de la Poste which
opened in 1880. Fresh, seasonal produce
and a fabulous terrace.
Bastide du Roy Golf Club has a superb
restaurant, and you can get a round in at
the same time on the magnificent almost
century old course.
biot-tourisme.com/en
28 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 29

out of doors, and in 1874, he exhibited a now
iconic painting at their first ground-breaking
exhibition. ‘Impression, soleil levant’ was an
atmospheric study of sunrise over the port of
Le Havre, disdainfully dubbed Impressionism
by one critic. But the name stuck, and the
movement gradually gathered momentum.
Impression, soleil levant’ – the painting that inspired the Impressionist movement,
hanging in the Musée Marmotton, Paris.
Monet’s home in Giverny
Mastering
Monet
As Normandy and the Paris region
commemorate the Monet Centenary,
find out more about the Impressionist
artist.
One of the world’s best-loved artists,
Impressionist painter Claude Monet died on
5 December 1926 at the age of 86. Famous
for his skilful evocation of light and colour,
Monet is buried in the churchyard at Giverny
in Normandy, a short walk from the house
where he spent the second half of his life.
Monet grew up in Normandy at Le Havre,
moving to Paris in the 1860s to further his
artistic career, and this year more than 100
centenary events and exhibitions will be
taking place across Normandy and the Paris
Region to mark his legacy. Monet’s distinctive
style is instantly recognisable, but how
Claude Monet, 1889
© Nadar, Public domain, via
Wikimedia Commons
much do you really
know about the man
who spearheaded an
artistic revolution...?
Monet was just
32 when he
unwittingly launched
Impressionism.
In Paris, Monet met
other young painters
wanting to rock the established art world
with a new style of art that involved painting
Claude Monet was encouraged by
Honfleur artist Eugène Boudin. Known for
his evocative seascapes, big skies and beach
scenes, Eugène Boudin lived in Honfleur,
across the Seine estuary from in Le Havre.
He recognised the young artist’s talent and
opened his eyes to the endless possibilities
of painting ‘en plein air’. Claude was later to
remark that he ‘owed everything’ to Boudin.
Urban scenes could inspire Monet as much
as the natural world. For Monet, painting was
all about light and atmosphere, the colours
and patterns that changed with weather and
time of day. But not only in the countryside.
That famous study of Le Havre depicts the
hazy outlines of cranes and chimneys on the
quayside and even when living in Normandy,
Monet spent regular periods in Paris. He loved
capturing the modernity of the capital in
scenes such as the steam trains at Gare Saint-
Lazare, his smoky skies so realistic you can
30 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 31

Rouen cathedral © J Flange, Rouen Normandie Tourisme et Congrès
Monet’s wife Camille, dressed in a kimono, the artist was greatly influenced by
Japanese art – Claude Monet, 1874 Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
almost smell them. He also worked in London,
completing evocative studies of Westminster
and the River Thames.
Giverny was not Monet’s only home in the
Seine valley. As a young, hard-up artist,
Monet moved frequently around Paris, often
to escape creditors, but gradually he was able
to move west along the Seine. His house and
garden at Giverny, where he lived for more
than 40 years from 1883 are the second most
visited attraction in Normandy. But Monet’s
two previous homes are also now open to
visitors at Argenteuil (1874 to 1878) and
Vétheuil (1878 to 1881).
© Claire Vincent –
Claude Monet à Vétheuil
Monet’s garden – like a living palette of colour
Monet married twice. He married his
favourite model Camille Doncieux (she
features in 50 of Monet’s paintings) in
1870, three years after the birth of their
son Jean, their second son Michel was
born in 1878. Camille tragically died at
their home in Vétheuil aged just 32. His
second wife Alice was first married to art
collector and department store magnate
Ernest Hoschedé, who commissioned
several works from Monet – including
‘Impression, soleil levan.’’ Alice and Claude
married in 1892 after Ernest’s death, living
at Giverny with her six children and his two
sons. Alice’s daughter Blanche became
Monet’s pupil and married his son (also her
stepbrother) Jean.
Gardening was a passion before Monet
moved to Giverny. Monet’s garden at
Vétheuil features in many of his paintings
and when he moved to Giverny, Monet soon
began organising a major transformation,
enlarging the pond, and filling it with water
lilies. He wrote daily instructions to a team
of seven gardeners about the design,
planting layouts and purchasing of new
Monet’s bright yellow dining room
plants to create a garden that was like a living
paint palette, providing him with an endless
source of artistic inspiration.
Monet loved good food, cars and Japanese
prints. Mealtimes at Giverny were sacrosanct,
starting at 6am with a breakfast that included
andouillette (tripe sausage) and white wine
in the bright yellow dining room. And he was
fascinated by cars, sometimes driving 200km
to Lamotte-Beuvron for an apple tart made
by the Tatin sisters! He was also a passionate
collector of Japanese prints.
Monet painted a series of
Rouen Cathedral paintings
- Claude Monet (1894),
Public domain, via Wikimedia
Commons
Monet never tired of the
same view. Captivated
by the effects of different
lights on a single subject,
from the 1890s onwards
Monet worked almost
exclusively on series of
paintings such as Meules
(haystacks) and Peupliers
(Poplars), recording the
nuances of light under
varying conditions. He
pictured the façade of
Rouen Cathedral more than 30 times, sitting
in an upstairs room above what is now the
Rouen Tourist Office.
Monet was his own harshest critic. He
once wrote “My life has been nothing but a
failure, and all that’s left for me to do is to
destroy my paintings before I disappear,”
and his wife Alice wrote to a friend in 1908
that “he punctures canvases every day.” In
1907, a show of his work in Paris had to be
postponed after he took a knife to at least
15 of his water lily paintings. It’s estimated
he destroyed as many as 500 paintings.
The immersive water lily experience at
the Orangerie in Paris was Monet’s idea.
Monet was obsessed with his water lilies. He
instructed his gardeners to wash and dust
each lily pad, and he captured their beauty
in more than 250 canvases. Immediately
after the Armistice was signed at the end of
32 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 33

Museée de l'Orangerie Brady Brenot, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
World War I, Monet wrote to his friend Georges
Clemenceau, Prime Minister of France, offering
two huge water lily panels to the nation. This
was the start of the magnificent display at the
Museée de l’Orangerie, which Monet worked on
during his last years, specifying exactly how the
panels should be hung to place the viewer at
the centre of the pond.
He died the year before the museum opened
in 1927. By then, Impressionism had fallen out
of fashion, public interest was limited, and
it was not until after the Second World War
that Monet and his fellow Impressionists were
in vogue once again. They have remained
popular ever since.
Major Monet collections
In Normandy, the Fine Arts Museum in
Rouen is home to the largest Impressionist
collection outside Paris (entry is free), and
in Le Havre, the André Malraux Museum of
Modern Art – MuMa - will stage a centenary
exhibition, ‘Monet in Le Havre’, from 5 June
to 27 September.
In Paris, see masterpieces by Monet at the
Musée Marmottan Monet and at the Musée
d’Orsay, home to the world’s largest collection
of Impression painting.
Impressionism for our times
The Impressionists were innovative in
both their subject matter and techniques,
taking collective action to create an artists’
cooperative. In 2010, an idea emerged in
Normandy to build an event to celebrate the
region by showcasing its Impressionist heritage
alongside the contemporary art scene.
The fifth Normandie Impressioniste event
in 2024 recorded over two million visits
through a multidisciplinary programme of art
and culture. In 2026, for the first time in its
history, the festival is entirely dedicated to
contemporary art. Important artists from
France and across the world have been
invited to create an original tribute to Monet
based around the theme of the garden:
normandie-impressionniste.fr/en
Following the Seine from Le Havre through
Honfleur, Rouen and Vernon to Paris,
Normandie Impressioniste 2026 will feature
paintings and photographs, videography and
even firework displays in public gardens and
museums, in churches and on riverbanks.
Monet, one feels, would have been thrilled.
34 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 35

France Travel
TRENDS 2026
Quiet Escapes, Personalised
Journeys and Slow Discoveries
According to data from leading hotel groups,
travel firms and global trend forecasters,
2026 will be the year we step back from
packed travel plans and lean into something
softer, slower and far more personal. Think
quiet escapes. Ultra-tailored retreats. Fewer
tick-box itineraries, more goosebumps. We
asked award-winning France travel specialist
Mark Bonte of French Side Travels, a familyowned
company specialising in unique, tailormade
trips to France, to share his predictions
for travel trends this year.
“In France, the shift from multiple to
meaningful feels not just natural – but
inevitable” he says. “It’s a combination of
things that are driving the move towards more
personal itineraries – digital overload for
sure, but mostly it’s about travellers wanting
carefully curated journeys that are often
shaped around life stages and their passions.
”At French Side Travel we’re finding that
travellers want France-based getaways that
are completely unique and cater to their
personal desires – solo rediscovery trips,
honeymoons, special anniversaries, postretirement
adventures, multi-generational
gatherings, creative sabbaticals, and culinary
pilgrimages. It’s about adventure, and
unforgettable moments – not just a tour.
Mark Bonte, award-winning
France travel expert
“The emphasis is
on trust” Mark says.
“Guests want to hand
over the details to
experts who understand
not just the destination
– but the traveller.
And few countries are
better placed for this
than France. There is so
much to discover, from
untouched nature to dynamic cities, quaint
seaside villages to abbeys perched in the
mountains, river and canal cruises, chateau
stays... France is a hub for art, culture,
gastronomy, fashion, and much, much more.
A place to explore hidden jewels, visit iconic
must-sees, shop in a bustling market, and
immerse yourself in the French art de vivre.”
Corsica authentic, unspoiled, uncrowded
Corsica – authentic,
unspoiled, uncrowded
“We see Corsica as one of the key areas
for visitors looking for an authentic
getaway, a deep connection with nature,
and amazing gastronomy. Step off the
plane and you’re greeted by the scent
of wild maquis herbs – rosemary, myrtle,
immortelle – drifting on warm air. Granite
peaks plunge into aquamarine coves lapped
by the Mediterranean Sea. Villages cling to
mountainsides, shutters half-closed against
the sun. We love restaurants which offer
traditional Corsican dishes like Figatellu
sausage grilled over vine cuttings, plates of
local brocciu cheese and chestnut honey
served on a shaded terrace.”
Corsican cuisine is a feast for the senses
36 | The Good Life France
Discover authentic France
The Good Life France | 37

Corsica’s fiercely independent spirit
runs deep. Once ruled by Genoa, briefly
independent in 1755 under Pasquale Paoli,
it was annexed by France in 1769, the year
Napoleon Bonaparte was born on the island,
but it remains uniquely Corsican.
“For those seeking an authentic, unspoiled
destination, Corsica offers a magnificent
mix of nature, gastronomy, culture, history,
and understated luxury. Notably, Le Mouflon
d’Or in Zonza was named one of the Top 5
hotel openings worldwide in 2025 by the
Michelin Hotel Guide. One of our favourite
things is a full day exploring the traditional and
incredibly picturesque villages of La Balagne
that cling to the hillsides between the sea and
the mountains, including a private visit to a
local wine producer and a traditional Corsican
picnic featuring fresh, local products. It’s
a feast for all the senses, one of those
experiences you’ll never forget.”
Normandy – history, art
and culture
“Stand on Omaha Beach at dawn. The sea
is steel-grey, gulls wheel overhead, and the
breeze carries the quiet weight of history. You
can feel it deep in your soul” says Mark.
From the Norman Conquest of 1066 to the
D-Day landings of 6 June 1944, this region
has shaped world history from Bayeux’s 11thcentury
tapestry embroidered epic to the
Hundred Years War and the execution of Joan
of Arc in Rouen, to glorious towns and bucolic
countryside that inspired the impressionists.
“For 2026 travellers seeking immersive,
story-rich journeys, Normandy delivers depth
with its lush history, dramatic landscapes,
and increasingly refined experiences such as
boutique manoir stays, and cooking classes
where you’ll experience Norman cuisine –
think apples, cream and fresh caught fish.
Mont-Saint-Michel © Jeremy Flint
“We love to include experiences that take
you deeper into the culture and history of a
place, for instance private historian-led tours
often featuring researched connections to
the past. Or maybe after hours visits at Mont-
Saint-Michel or even playing an interactive
game – Who Murdered Abbé Corbeau? A
19th-century murder mystery set within Mont-
Saint-Michel, where guests uncover the truth
behind the Abbé’s death. And for history buffs,
a Private D-Day British Sector Jeep Tour,
boarding an authentic WWII Willys Jeep to
explore the Normandy coast – it’s not about
coming for the history, it’s about feeling it.”
Normandy appeals both to history enthusiasts
and to those looking for immersive, storydriven
travel.
Burgundy – heritage
and wine
In Burgundy, mornings begin with mist rising
from vine-covered slopes and church bells
echoing across limestone villages. Life here
is unhurried – deliberately so. The powerful
Dukes of Burgundy in the 14th and 15th
centuries made this region a cultural and
political force in Europe. Dijon’s Ducal
Palace and Beaune’s Hôtel-Dieu, with its
glazed-tile roof, remain as symbols of that
prosperity. Burgundy’s cuisine is famous,
boeuf bourguignon slow-cooked in local
wine, Époisses with its famously stinky
aroma, mustard workshops in Dijon that
Wining and dining like royalty in Beaune
Burgundy is a gastronomic star
Private tastings
make you realise you’ve never really tasted
mustard before.
And wine, of course, is the enduring legacy.
Omaha beach
Burgundy vineyards
38 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 39

“With several new hotel openings planned
for 2026, former abbeys and estates being
transformed into design-led retreats, Burgundy
is poised for a renaissance moment, it’s a
destination we expect to hear much more
about. It’s ideal for travellers seeking depth,
heritage, and refined experiences. Wine
lovers will cherish private tastings in Grand
Cru cellars, and masterclasses in terroir led
by multi-generational wine makers; and one
of our favourites – a private guided driving
tour in Southern Burgundy, featuring meetings
with women winemakers, with exclusive cellar
visits and tastings.”
“For travellers seeking layered experiences
and cultivated indulgence, Burgundy feels
tailor-made for 2026.”
The Loire Valley – Graceful,
grown-up glamour
Chateau of Amboise
The chateaux of the Loire Valley are world
famous: elegant Chenonceau arching across
the river, Chambord with its extravagant
turrets, Amboise perched above the Loire’s
silvery waters. Built during the Renaissance
by kings and courtiers keen to impress, these
majestic castles shimmer with history.
“There’s a shift from ‘seeing it all, to feeling
something real” Mark says. “The region is
moving increasingly upmarket, with a wide
range of activities for families, and access to
both iconic châteaux and private, lesser-known
estates. For example, you can take a private
visit to a family-owned château, hosted by the
Early morning balloon ride over the Chateaux of the Loire
owner, offering behind-the-scenes access you
wouldn’t get otherwise. It gives you a deeper
connection to the whole experience.”
Mark recommends booking early-morning
private tours before the gates open, and
candlelit dinners in lesser-known private
estates with Loire wines on the menu, crisp
Sancerre and Vouvray paired with river fish and
goat’s cheese.
High-end countryside hotels now curate
family programmes, think treasure hunts in
castle grounds, bread-making workshops, hot
air balloon rides drifting above the vineyards
and over the towers of legendary castles.
“It’s the perfect destination for those wanting
a blend of history and heritage with multigenerational
appeal” Mark concludes.
The Return to Slow,
Intentional Travel
Our predictions for France travel trends see
expert-led curation becoming more important
than endless choice. Mark agrees, “travel, in
2026, won’t be about more. It will be about
meaning and memories that stay with you
long after the journey ends.”
Find out more about French Side
Travels curated journeys to France at:
frenchsidetravel.com
LE MOULIN
SUR CÉLÉ
An enchanting luxurious riverside retreat in the beautiful Célé Valley
Experience la France Profonde
www.lemoulinsurcele.com
40 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 41

Nowhere has its finger on the pulse quite
like Marseille says Anna Richards.
Often, when I’m travelling around France,
I feel like time has stood still. That adds
charm of course: walled cities, old towns with
cobbled streets, turreted châteaux and — dare
I say it — a Medieval reluctance to include a
vegetarian option on a bistrot menu.
Marseille, on the other hand, evolves in dog
years. If I haven’t been for a year it feels as
though seven have passed, and it’s not hard
to see why celebrities — everyone from Lily
Rose Depp to Sadie Sink — are flocking here.
I’m always intrigued to see what’s the latest
building that has been turned into the city’s
new, must-go club, restaurant or bar. Former
factories, car parks and military forts have all
made the jump, and there’s even a restaurant
inside a working prison, run by inmates.
I’ve always found overly cool cities a bit
oppressive. Who wants to spend hours
queueing in silence, stony faced in the hope
of looking aloof enough to get into Berlin’s
Berghain, for example? Why do I get funny
looks if I wear all the colours of the rainbow
in Paris? Marseille’s cool is different. There’s
nothing oppressive about it, because it doesn’t
impose rules. Which is lucky, because in a city
this chaotic they’d get broken anyway.
Let’s start with the art. The Louvre can keep
its Mona Lisa and jewels — if they manage to
keep them safe from future heists. Fine art
isn’t what Marseille is about, although there
are some fantastic fine art galleries. Palais
Longchamp, a 19th century palace framed
with cascading water fountains, is where
you’ll find the Musée des Beaux-Arts, and it’s
well worth a visit before you pretend you’re
too cool for classical statues and seek out
something edgier.
Le Centre de la Vieille Charité, a beautiful
pink and white stone building, was built
as Marseille’s poorhouse. It looks like a
monastery, with a courtyard garden encircled
by covered passages with stone arches, and
in any other French city you’d probably find
a few paintings of the virgin and child. Not in
Marseille: the exhibitions here are anything
France’s Capital
of Cool MARSEILLE
Palais Longchamp © joOTCM
42 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 43

prison where the fictional count of Monte
Cristo was locked up. Île Degaby only opened
in 2024, and there’s the choice of a gourmet
restaurant or bar snacks. Or try La Ola, an
ultra-cool restaurant serving exclusively
natural wines, which welcomes rotating chefs
in residency all year.
Le Centre de la Vieille Charité © Massimo Municchi, OTCM
but classic. Recent exhibitions have included
the history and cultural significance of tattoos,
and marine life, with dozens of model fish
hanging from the domed ceilings.
If there’s one cultural centre that epitomises
Marseille’s edginess it’s La Friche la Belle de
Mai, a former tobacco factory turned skate
park, food court, club and museum. The
events schedule is as varied as the colourful
street art which covers almost every available
outdoor space. Rooftop DJ sets, all-night
electro parties, theatre, writing workshops,
painting — something, or sometimes multiple
things, are happening every day. There’s also a
fantastic anarchist bookshop on site.
Le Cours Julien is a free, open-air gallery, a
road so covered in street art that you can only
guess at the original colour of the stone. Many
of the murals and painted staircases change
faces every couple of years. It’s packed with
thrift shops, artist studios, restaurants serving
every kind of world cuisine and, naturally for
Marseille, plenty of clubs and bars.
Getting anywhere in Marseille feels like
jumping into a fast-paced video game. Road
rules are questionable, and cars, scooters and
motorbikes career up and down steep hills
and over flyovers. The metro is surprisingly
limited for a city of this size, with the bus
network much more developed, although it’s
often a game of sardines to rival the London
Underground at rush hour. Since rainfall is
so low, one of the best ways to get around
Friche Belle de Mai © JoYanaOTCM
Mirrored pavilion on the quayside of Marseille, designed by Sir Norman Foster
Ile Degaby © Mickaël A. Bandassak
is by pay-per-use ebikes LeVélo, but you’ll
need nerves of steel. Not everywhere has
designated bike lanes.
Ask French teenagers what makes Marseille
cool and they’ll likely tell you the music.
Soprano and Jul are from here, some of the
most successful rappers in the country. Or
perhaps they’ll say sports — the city’s football
team, Olympique de Marseille, has a cult
following. They probably wouldn’t say food,
but they should. In Marseille, I’ve eaten at
Underwater museum at Plage des Catalans, © La Pieruvre, OTLCM
some incredibly quirky restaurants that very
much combine style and substance. There’s
the first restaurant in Europe which cooks their
dishes exclusively using solar power. At Le
Présage, many of the herbs and veggies grilled
to perfection using sunlight are grown in the
restaurant’s own garden, and when they’re
not, they’re sourced locally. There’s an island
château-fort, formerly owned by the military,
where you can swim from the island’s private
slipway at sunset, before sipping chilled rosé
with views over Château d’If, the former island
Perhaps the secret ingredient to Marseille’s
effortless, laidback cool, though, is its
location. The closest beach, Plage des
Catalans, is just a 30-minute walk from the
main port. Sure, it’s not all white sand and
palm trees swaying in the breeze, but in
Marseille, you can even see an exhibition
whilst at the beach. Don a snorkel mask and
freedive down 5m below the white buoy just
offshore to see an ethereal collection of
underwater sculptures, increasingly being
claimed as habitats by local marine life. The
sculptures include a giant octopus, a travelling
man with a suitcase and people inspired by
mythology. You’ll need good lungs to see the
statues face on, though, and I very much got
the aerial view.
Alternatively, head out to the calanques, a
national park made up of 26 limestone inlets
stretching all the way to the seaside town of
Cassis, to laze the day away under the warm
embrace of the Mediterranean sun. It’ll help
you recharge your batteries before hitting an
all-night warehouse rave.
Les Goudes, Baie des Singes, passage des Croisettes © LamyOTCM
44 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 45

France has some real big hitters when
it comes to Roman remains, but smaller
surprises can be magical too, says
Gillian Thornton
Step back in time:
The Roman Empire
in France
Whichever way you look at it, the Roman
amphitheatre in Arles packs a serious punch
with its towering walls and high tiers of
seats, right in the heart of the modern city. A
marvel of Roman Gaul, this UNESCO World
Heritage Site is just as impressive today as it
was 2,000 years ago.
Arles Roman Theatre © Gillian Thornton
No matter how many pictures you have seen,
reality is something else. Stand in line at the
entrance and you cannot help but share the
same excitement as the citizens of Roman
Arelate. The ingenuity of Roman architects
and builders is humbling, as too is the fact
that so much of their work still stands across
21 st century France, once a key part of the
Roman Empire.
Many of the largest sites in the ancient Roman
province of Gaul are clustered close to the
Mediterranean coast and along the strategic
trade route of the Rhône Valley, but artefacts
and masonry pop up in the most surprising
places. The lofty city walls at Le Mans in Pays
de la Loire, for instance, with their round
towers and geometric brickwork, and the
triumphal arch and amphitheatre at Saintes
in the Charente Valley. All provide tangible
links with an ancient civilisation that still
reverberates today.
Roman walls in Le Mans © Gillian Thornton
Entertainment venues
The Romans loved their public spectacles,
from bloodthirsty gladiatorial contests in
front of animated crowds to open air theatre
and poetry readings. An amphitheatre is
generally oval, the word ‘arena’ referring
to the central performance area, whilst a
theatre is semi-circular.
Every major city had an amphitheatre and
whilst many were dismantled after the fall of
the Western Roman Empire and their stone
redeployed, many are still in use today. Buy a
ticket for your favourite rock band, a classical
concert, or Roman re-enactment in Arles
or nearby Nimes, and you are following in a
tradition going back two millennia.
View from
behind the 11ft
high statue of
the Emperor
Augustus at the
Roman theatre
of Orange
46 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 47

Vaison-la-Romaine
© Alain Hocquel,
Vaucluse Tourism
Roman Arena, still in use, Lyon © Gillian Thornton
Several theatres are also still in use, one of
the best known being Orange in Provence
(Roman Arausio). Regarded as the best
preserved in Europe thanks to its high stage
wall, the theatre is home to the Chorégies
d’Orange, an annual opera and classical
music event launched in 1869 and the
oldest festival in France.
The modern cities of Lyon (Roman
Lugdunum) and nearby Vienne (Vienna)
in the Rhône Valley are unusual in having
twin theatres. The main theatres were used
for large productions such as plays and
cultural events, whilst the secondary venues
hosted poetry readings and small concerts.
Summer city break? Buy a ticket for Lyon’s
Nuits de Fourvière festival of arts, or the
popular Jazz à Vienne.
At Autun in Burgundy – Roman
Augustodunum – the ancient theatre,
built around 70AD, is thought to have
been the largest in the Empire, able to
accommodate 20,000 spectators. Look
out too for the impressive section of city
walls complete with round towers, and two
of the original four towering gates.
Urban Living
In settlements around the Rhône Valley, you
get a real feel for the layout of Roman towns
as you wander amongst the foundations of
buildings from everyday life. Across the Rhône
from Vienne, St Romain-en-Gal is one of the
largest archaeological sites in France from the
Gallo-Roman period. Discover the back story
at the museum that stands at the heart of a
7-hectare park where 21 st century visitors can
walk amongst the remains of thermal baths,
workshops and private homes.
But the largest site is the ancient city of
Vasio Vocontiorum - Vaison-la-Romaine near
Avignon. Here the extensive Roman remains
are spread across two main sites. At Villasse,
discover the main square of the forum and a
street lined with shops, as well as a thermal
bath complex and grand houses. More wealthy
homes stand on the nearby hillside of Puymin,
some with mosaics, sculptures and inscriptions,
all conveniently close to the theatre and shops.
Sometimes however, a little imagination is
required. In north-eastern France, in the
department of Vosges, the well-preserved
amphitheatre at Grand once held up to 17,000
Roman citizens. An intriguing thought for a
small town that today numbers barely 400
residents.
Monuments and Museums
Large buildings such as arenas and theatres
usually survived because they remained in
use after the Roman Empire collapsed. The
Vienne forum temple dedicated to Augustus
and Livia was begun around 20BC and later
transformed into a church.
Even better preserved is the monumental
Maison Carré in Nîmes (Nemausus), listed by
UNESCO as one of the earliest examples of a
Roman temple connected to imperial worship
in the provinces of Rome. Visit the city’s vast
amphitheatre and opposite, the Musée de la
Romanité which brings Roman times vividly
to life through interactive multimedia devices.
Don’t miss the 360° view from the rooftop.
Then there is the extraordinary Pont du Gard,
a lofty limestone bridge with three tiers of
perfectly symmetrical arches that span the
Roman Amphitheatre, Grand, Vosges © Gillian Thornton
Maison Carré, Nîmes
48 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 49

Via Domitia, Narbonne © Gillian Thornton
river Gardon. Built in the 1st century AD,
the world’s highest Roman aqueduct bridge
is part of a 50-kilometre construction that
once carried life-giving liquid from Uzès to
Nîmes in the modern region of Occitanie.
(More on this unique monument coming up in
our Summer issue).
In the far west of the Mediterranean,
Narbonne (Narbo Martius) was the first Roman
colony to be founded in Gaul in 118BC. No
grand buildings remain although a cobbled
section of the ancient Via Domitia – complete
with cartwheel ruts – is exposed in the city
centre. Head to the edge of town however
and Narbo Via museum, opened in 2021, has
an exceptional collection of more than 6,000
pieces of Roman sculptures and mosaics
found in the area.
Surprises
Glimpses of the Roman Empire pop up in some
surprising places. The Tourist Office in Beziers,
for instance, stands on Place du Forum which
now exists only in name, but tucked in amongst
some nearby buildings is the distinctive shape
of the 1st century amphitheatre.
Head north through Occitanie and nestled
within a loop of the Lot Valley, the heritage
city of Cahors reveals little of its importance
Tucked amongst modern
buildings, 1st Century
Roman amphitheatre,
Beziers © Gillian Thornton
as the Gallo-Roman town of Divona
Cadurocorum, but look carefully. A section of
the public baths and the amphitheatre wall
are visible through glass on the first floor of
the Amphitheatre Car Park. Above ground,
look out for the Arc de Diane, the main
vestige of the city’s Roman baths.
North again to Dordogne and a museum of
Roman art and archaeology surround the
remains of a wealthy urban villa that now
lies beneath a glass roof in the centre of
Périgueux, previously the Gallo-Roman town
of Vesunna. The nearby Vesunna Tower is all
that remains of an important temple.
Few Roman remains exist in modern Poitiers
to show that the ancient town of Limonum
once had an amphitheatre seating more than
30,000 people. The amphitheatre and public
baths were demolished in the 19 th century,
small sections of masonry being incorporated
into other buildings. But at Sainte-Croix
museum, a section of Roman foundations are
visible beneath the floor, whilst rare fragments
of gladiator helmets bring the drama of the
city’s arena tangibly close.
And looking on is a marble statue of Athena,
discovered barely a century ago during
construction work and proving that Roman
treasures may still await lie beneath our feet.
Spine-tingling stuff!
50 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 51

Spotlight on
OCCITANIE
Carcassonne, medieval splendour and fairy tale pretty
Carcassonne, surrounded by vineyards © Shannan Carter
Occitanie, formed of the two former
administrative regions of Languedoc-
Roussillon and Midi-Pyrénées, is a
region of breathtaking landscapes,
exceptional heritage, gastronomy and
wine. It really is the heart of southern
France says Shannan Carter who runs
Best of France Travels tours.
Occitanie is perfect for wine and food-loving
visitors, for those who love culture and history,
and for those who enjoy spectacular scenery,
historic towns and picture-postcard-pretty
villages, not to mention castles, authentic
street markets and Roman remains. In this
region you will find everything from golden
beaches to soaring mountain ranges as well
as endless rolling vineyards - this is the largest
wine region in the world. New wines, organic
wines, grape varieties that were nearly lost, the
famous sparkling wines, the tiny producers as
well as the fabulous wine estates all contribute
to making Occitanie the “New Wine Capital”
of France! Plus wonderful gastronomy! There
is just so much to see and do, so much to fall in
love with here, and after many years of running
tours in the area – I can tell you, there are a
few key places that must be on your bucket list
when you come to Occitanie.
Carcassonne: For a blend of medieval
splendour and fairy tale vibes – the UNESCO
World Heritage Site of ‘la cité médiévale”
in Carcassonne is hard to beat. Ramparts
that look out over vineyards and as far as the
Pyrenees mountains, 52 towers, a labyrinth
of cobbled streets and ancient buildings
including a 12th century church, topped
by a castle. It's mind boggling that such an
incredible citadel is still a living thing. I live in
Carcassonne, and I see the medieval walls
and the castle turrets when I walk out pf my
front door, I’ve explored the Medieval city so
much and at so many different times of the
day, and it’s exciting each and every time. My
favourite time is in the early morning when I
go for a walk just before sunrise. There's barely
a soul around and I get chills just thinking
about the history here each time I go up there.
Sunrise is also a great time to visit as the sun
casts its glow over the vineyards around. And
late-afternoon when the golden hour hits, the
colours and views across to the Pyrenees are
breathtaking. Actually, any time is a great
time to see this majestic medieval gem.
Below the Citadel, the city of Carcassonne,
known as Bastide St Louis, is often missed
by visitors but the 13th century “new city” is
fabulous. A warren of narrow streets lined with
grand buildings, coloured facades and that
old southern France charm, plus pink marble
paving laid to honour the visit of King Louis
XIV, the sun King.
Sète: Go on market day (Wednesday) to
really experience this lovely fishing port city
at its best. The extensive food market weaves
its way around the town centre and the sight
of stalls piled with everything from olives,
cheeses, fruit and veg, bread to food stalls
serving Paella, port stew, sweets, and more
52 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 53

Sète © Shannan Carter
is a complete feast for the senses! It’s a great
place to shop for a picnic, enjoyed with a
bottle of local wine.
Marseillan: In one of the oldest fishing
villages in France, you’ll discover where Noilly
Prat, the famous straw-coloured French
vermouth - is made. A tasting is a must and
then a visit the tiny multi-hued port and enjoy
the delicious fresh oysters. Marseillan is an
enchanting postcard-perfect port town.
Pont du Gard: The three-level, 50-metrehigh
roman aqueduct was built more than
2,000 years ago and stands 50 meters
high over the river Gardon. No photo does
this monumental Roman bridge justice.
The views from the top span across the
countryside and one of the most amazing
ways to really dive into the history of this
place is with a private guided tour on the
top level. Step though a tiny door and right
inside the channel that used to carry water
to Nimes, 50km away. It’s just extraordinary
to be somewhere so ancient – you can feel
the history all around you.
Pont du Gard, the
monumental Roman
aqueduct is an
astounding creation
© Shannan Carter
Uzès: Not far from the Pont du Gard, Uzès
is one of the most dazzling towns in the
south of France. Pale limestone houses
gently glow under an azure blue sky, and
history and ancient architecture walk hand
in hand under the watchful eye of three
feudal towers and the ancestral home and
chateau of the town’s Duke, who lives in
Le Duché, an enclosed castle. You can’t
help but fall under the spell of its narrow,
medieval streets, plane trees shading you
as you sit in the central square Place aux
Herbes lined with medieval arcades, and
ancient that mulberry trees are a reminder
of the town’s rich textile past.
See page 8 for more about Uzès
Toulouse: The “pink city” named for
the red brick buildings that dominate its
historic streets has world-class museums
including a unique space museum, stunning
architecture, fantastic restaurants, and
one of the most beautiful squares in France
Toulouse, AKA “la
ville rose” thanks to
its historic red-brick
buildings
Uzès © Shannan Carter
– La Capitole, the perfect place to sit and
people watch from one of the super cafés or
bars that line the square. Or pop to Bar No. 5
a few minutes’ walk away – three times voted
best bar in the world!
54 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 55

Exclusive Small Group Tours
Discover the most captivating regions of France
Relaxed, Refined & Remarkably Personal
Albi’s hilltop cathedral dominates the landscape © Gillian Thornton
Shannan enjoying a pastel workshop
in Toulouse!
Toulouse made its
first fortunes from
pastel, nicknamed
the blue gold of
Toulouse and you
can take a pastel
workshop in the
city – a really great
experience.
While you’re there,
don’t forget to try
cassoulet – a cult
dish in France! It
features duck, pork belly the city’s famous
local pork sausages, and white haricot beans,
flavoured with wine, garlic and herbs.
Albi: The sight of Albi’s enormous hilltop
cathedral, the largest brick cathedral in the
world – is a showstopper. From the outside,
Sainte-Cecile resembles a towering fortress,
built in the early 13 th century as a blatant
show of Roman Catholic supremacy following
a Papal crusade to supress the Cathar
movement. Make sure you leave time to visit
the wonderful Toulouse-Lautrec Museum
which holds the world’s largest collection
of the artist’s work in the former Palais
de la Berbie which has beautiful gardens
and knockout views overlooking the Tarn
River. Wander the old town with its village
atmosphere and half-timbered houses, and
maybe a short cruise on the Garonne River
and part of the Canal du Midi by gabarre – a
traditional flat-bottomed boat.
And I haven’t even mentioned the olive
producers, the wonderful wine domains where
you can enjoy tastings, the vineyards that are
perfect for picnics, the picturesque villages,
ancient abbeys, and majestic Cathar castles
that you’ll see as you travel around in this
wonderful part of France!
Occitanie is authentic, delicious, cultural,
historic, surprising and utterly wonderful.
Find out more about Best of France Travels
tour of Occitanie which takes in all these
fabulous sites.
Picnic in a vineyard
near Pézenas
© Shannan Carter
French Alps
Occitanie Brittany
Best of France
TRAVELS
Find Out More...
Provence & the
French Riviera
bestoffrancetravels.com
56 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 57

Chateau of Dampierre, designed by Jules Hardouin Mansart, 1675, Yvelines, Île-de-France
Versailles circa 1668 Pierre Patel, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
MANSART:
An architect of icons
Jules Hardouin Mansart, architect
to King Louis XIV, left a legacy of
incredible work in France. Sue Aran
explores his life and style…
Imagine a small village and church surrounded
by meadows, wetlands and forests filled with
wild game, very much like a Millet or Poussin
painting of the French countryside. The year
was 1607. Into this scene rode a six-year-old
boy on his first hunting trip with his father.
They stayed at a village inn and the trip was so
memorable for the young boy that he vowed
he’d return. When fate dealt him the hand that
would ultimately change the course of French
history, he kept his promise. The young boy
was the Dauphin, the future King Louis XIII.
His father was King Henry IV, his mother Marie
de Medici, and the pastoral landscape that
so impressed itself in his memory - was the
fiefdom of Versailles.
Crowned King in 1610, Louis XIII next visited
Versailles in 1621 and stayed at the same inn.
Finding the location ideally situated between
his main residence at Saint-Germain-en-
Laye and Paris, he purchased the surrounding
land from a local landowner and built a
small hunting lodge. That small, two-storey
residence became the foundation of the
Palace of Versailles as we know it today.
In 1631 Louis XIII commissioned the
architect, Philibert Le Roy, to replace the
lodge with a classically designed chateau
constructed in brick and stone. When his
successor Louis XIV, the “Sun King,” took
over the reins of power, he commissioned
the leading artists of the day, architect Louis
Le Vau, decorator and painter Charles Le
Brun and the landscape designer André Le
Nôtre – to rebuild and extend the footprint
of the small hunting chateau. It’s estimated
that for some 40 years, 60% of France’s
revenue was spent on this flamboyant
structure. It’s impossible to value it properly
but those that try estimate up to three
hundred billion dollars – or more. Once
completed, the Sun King’s entire court,
courtesans and staff, totalling upwards
of six-thousand people, crowded into the
buildings, necessitating further expansion.
Into this heady assemblage strode the
young architect Jules Hardouin, whose work
is considered to be the pinnacle of French
Baroque architecture.
Born in Paris in 1646, Jules studied under his
renowned great-uncle, François Mansart (also
spelled Mansard), one of the originators of
classical French architecture. Adopting his
great-uncle’s name, Jules Hardouin-Mansart
used his family ties and prodigious ambition to
make contacts at the royal court and in 1674
he won the commission to remodel the estate
of Clagny (which no longer exists) that the
King had recently bought for his then mistress,
Madame de Montespan. Pleased by the work
on Clagny, the King hired Hardouin-Mansart
to enlarge the Château du Val in the forest
of Saint-Germain-en-Laye, and the following
year appointed him Chief Architect and
Superintendent of Royal Buildings.
Hall of Mirrors by Myrabella, Public Domaine, Wikime dia Commons
Jules Hardouin-Mansart (1685) by Hyacinthe Rigaud,
58 | The Good Life France Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
The Good Life France | 59

Following the death of his wife, Maria
Theresa of Spain, the King asked Hardouin-
Mansart to undertake the enlargement
and remodeling of the Royal Apartments
for himself and his then-secret wife, the
Marquise de Maintenon. Hardouin-Mansart
next began construction of the Royal
Chapel which towered over the rest of the
palace.
Although occupied with the Palace
of Versailles for much of his life, Jules
Hardouin-Mansart designed many other
renowned buildings, among them the
Chateau de Dampierre (1675), Chateau de
Marly (1679), Place des Victoires (1684),
Pont Royale (1685), and the Place Vendôme
(1690).
Today schools, squares, buildings, hotels
and streets are named after Jules Hardoin-
Mansart and his legacy lives on.
View of the Palace of Versailles from the Orangerie by Novo vif, public Domain,Wikimedia Commons
Inside the Royal Chapel, ornate opulence..
In 1676, Hardouin-Mansart received another
commission to design the famous dome
of the church of Saint-Louis des Invalides,
considered one of the architect’s greatest
masterpieces. The designer of Les Invalides
was Libéral Bruant, one of Hardouin-Mansart’s
teachers. He assisted the aged Bruant, and
the chapel was finished in 1679 to Bruant’s
designs after his death. This chapel was known
as Église Saint-Louis des Invalides. Buoyed
by the brilliance of this plan, Louis XIV put
Hardoiun-Mansart in charge of redesigning
and enlarging the Chateau of Versailles into
a palace. Using Le Vau’s original plans, he
added a second storey and designed the
magnificent Hall of Mirrors as well as the
North and South wings, the Grand Trianon,
the Orangerie (subsequently planted with
3,000 of the King’s beloved orange trees),
and the Petites Écuries and Grandes Écuries
(stables). By 1682 Louis proclaimed Versailles
his principal residence and seat of government
and was able to offer rooms in the palace to
almost all of his court.
Mansart designed the buildings in Place Vendôme, note the Statue of Napoleon
was erected in 1810
60 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 61

The Transhumance in Allanche © Jeremy Flint
Transhumance
in the Auvergne
A thousand-year-old
tradition
The ancient tradition of Transhumance
is thriving in France says Jeremy Flint
as he joins a herd on the move in the
Auvergne region.
The custom of transhumance, the seasonal
movement of livestock, is an age-old custom,
practiced in France for more than 1000 years.
It’s a seasonal event in which cows, sheep and
even goats are guided by humans to feed on
favourable pastures according to the time
of year: higher, cooler, pasture-rich land in
summer, then moving to lower land, where the
wind is not so bitter, in winter.
Nicolas and Julian Theron, farmers who uphold the tradition of transhumance in
Auvergne © Jeremy Flint
In December 2023, the tradition was
recognised by UNESCO as an Intangible
Cultural Heritage of Humanity acknowledging
the importance of preserving transhumance
(especially in Europe), for future generations.
The Transhumance takes place across France
– in Provence, the Pyrenees, the Alps, the
Massif Central, Corsica, the Vosges, the Jura,
and Auvergne. Herders leave parched summer
plains and journey to mountain pastures that
are rich in biodiversity and yield exceptional
milk, cheese and meat.
In the town of Allanche, nestled in the
Cantal department of the Auvergne-Rhône-
Alpes region of France, transhumance remains
a vital part of the local culture. Farmers,
including Julian and Nicolas, the 4 th generation
of the Theron family, continue to uphold the
tradition, moving their livestock to cooler
uplands from mid-spring to mid-autumn, to
the lush meadows, hills, and mountains in the
heart of the volcanic Cézallier plateau. “The
grass is natural without pesticides and the hills
are not cultivated” “says Julian.
The annual migration takes place at the end
of May after the celebrations of the Fête de
l’Estive (Summer Pasture Festival) in Allanche.
Some 40,000 visitors arrive in the town to join
in the fun and witness droves of mahoganycoloured
Salers cows being paraded through
the streets by farmers who are considered
‘guardians of transhumance,’ keeping the
mountain tradition alive. This authentic
62 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 63

© Jeremy Flint
Blessing of the cows © Jeremy Flint
celebration starts with a blessing of the cows
by the priest on a hill outside the town. The
cows then march to the town, some festively
adorned with ribbons and bells, guided by the
farmers. The route is packed with enthusiasts
from all over France – and no wonder, it is a
spectacular sight.
Julian and Nicolas have taken part in the
festival since boyhood, Nicolas’s daughters
and Julian’s son help decorate their cows.
The family bring around 60 of their best
specimens, their pride and joy, to the
procession, along with other farmers and their
cows. The atmosphere in the town is festive,
there’s street entertainment including music
and dance, food vendors, a magnificent
market, plus an agricultural show.
Julian says, “it’s an honour to be a part of the
festival and showcase our wonderful animals.
The cows are relaxed and know exactly
what’s going on. They are excited with what’s
to come.”
The following day, the celebration of rural
heritage resumes when the public can hike in
the footsteps of the herds along their ascent to
the rural landscape beyond. This is considered
the “proper French thing to do,” and you’re
welcomed into the community as you follow
the pastoral paths in a ritual passed down
through the generations.
© Jeremy Flint
© Jeremy Flint
In October, the cows are guided back to the
lower pastures and warm stables for the winter
months. Nicolas says, “farming and sustaining
the tradition of transhumance requires a lot of
work, but we love it.”
Allanche itself is a great little market town.
It’s long been associated with livestock and
there are beautiful bourgeois style mansions
that once belonged to prosperous dealers.
The Monument de l’Estive – a monument of
a Salers cow and calf – stands in the Place
du Cézallier. Crafted entirely from volcanic
stone, the statue is a tribute to the Salers
cattle and the summer transhumance.
64 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 65

© INNOVEO – BFC Tourisme
Spotlight on:
VÉZELAY
The historic, pickled-in-the-past town
is divine!
One of the key starting points on the Santiago de Compostela pilgrim route,
Vézelay in the Yonne department of Burgundy, has a rich spiritual history with
a magnificent basilica as well as picturesque streets and hilltop views, writes
Karen Tait.
Some 12 centuries ago, a monk called
Baudillon brought relics of Mary Magdalene to
a hilltop Benedictine monastery in Burgundy.
In 1058, Pope Stephen IX confirmed the
authenticity of the relics, and the abbey,
already a key starting point on the St-
Jacques de Compostelle pilgrimage route,
was put firmly on the map. The ensuing influx
of pilgrims – including princes, kings and
emperors, who came to worship the relics
before setting off along the Way of St James
or on various crusades - brought prosperity to
the village.
In 1146 Bernard of Clairvaux (co-founder of
the Knights Templar, later venerated as Saint
Bernard) preached the Second Crusade here
alongside Louis VII. In 1190, Richard the
Lionheart and Philip II embarked on the Third
Crusade from the basilica. Vézelay became
prominent on the political and religious stage
of Europe.
Today, the basilica – and indeed the entire
village which is an officially listed Plus Beaux
Village – is recognised by UNESCO for its
historical and architectural significance.
Holidaymakers mingle with pilgrims and
locals, but the village remains surprisingly
peaceful, even in high summer, especially
away from the main street and abbey.
If you’re arriving by car, it’s best to park in
the lower village and continue on foot. The
66 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 67

© Clara Ferrand - BFC Tourisme
village is strung alongside the main street,
which winds up the hill to the basilica, lined
with honey-coloured buildings while jewellike
hollyhocks bloom through cracks in the
pavement. The view down the hill is surely one
of the loveliest street views in Burgundy, if not
the whole of France.
It’s pretty steep so you have the perfect
excuse for a café stop and to browse the
artisan shops selling handmade crafts and
ceramics, and local specialities like honey,
mustard, snails and wine. It won’t come as a
surprise to hear that the village has inspired
many artists, writers and philosophers, and
you’ll discover several art galleries tucked
away in picturesque corners.
Look out for shells set in the ground, the
symbol of pilgrims on the Way of St James
(you’ll find a starting marker for the route in
front of the abbey).
© Karen Tait
Abbey Road
As you crest the hill – known as the Colline
Éternelle (eternal hill) – expect to have your
breath taken away by the Sainte-Magdelena
Basilica, a masterpiece of Romanesque
architecture, which is visible for miles around.
The white stone façade features several
decorative elements including Christ blessing
the evangelists as well as statues of the saints.
We have the 19 th -century French architect
Viollet-le-Duc to thank for the remarkable
condition of the basilica; it was restored under
his guidance after it had fallen into disrepair,
a result of the Hundred Years’ War, Religious
Wars and a challenge over the authenticity
of the relics. Additions from the 19 th century
include the carving of the Last Judgement
above the door, the original having been
destroyed during the Revolution. You may
notice there’s only one tower, but this isn’t
a result of damage; the left one was simply
never finished.
an extension was built to accommodate
the swell of pilgrims) depicts Christ, arms
outstretched, sending the Apostles out into
the world to preach his word – symbolising
the missionary spirit of the Crusades. The
lintel shows the sinners of the world as not
fully human – interpreted by Bernard de
Clairville to represent infidel Turks and
Moors, whose conversion was the prime aim
of the Second Crusade.
If you’re
anything like
me, however,
it will be the
sculpted
capitals at
the top of the
columns that
© Karen Tait
will capture
your attention – all the different faces and
details are mesmerising. Considered to be
some of the finest Romanesque carvings in
Europe, they depict stories from the bible,
moral lessons or scenes from saints’ lives,
including the Temptation of Christ, Massacre
of the Innocents and Flight into Egypt. The
mythical beasts and symbolic creatures were
my favourites though.
Dating from the Carolingian period (9th
century), the crypt is one of the oldest parts
of the basilica, and it’s here that the relics
of Mary Magdalene are kept – all that now
remains is her alleged finger, sealed in a
golden casket. The crypt also has 12 th -century
wall paintings.
© Anne-Gaëlle Labrode-Ceyrac – BFC Tourisme
Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine de Vézelay © Anne-Gaëlle Labrode-Ceyrac
- BFC Tourisme
Inside the basilica, the nave is surprisingly
light and airy, with a relatively simple
design incorporating stripes of different
coloured stone. While the nave is classically
Romanesque, with massive columns and
rounded arches, the choir was rebuilt in the
Gothic style after a fire.
A magnificent 12th-century sculpted
tympanum between the nave and the
narthex (originally the west doors, but
The best time to visit the basilica is close to
the summer solstice, from 20 to 30 June,
when midday sun streaming through the
southern windows falls in a precise line along
the central nave, outlining a trail from one
side to the other. This alignment is thought
to symbolise divine illumination or the path
of righteousness, and is an extraordinary
example of medieval architectural symbolism
and astronomy. Also look out for other light
displays throughout the year, including on the
winter solstice and at Easter.
68 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 69

A visitor centre offers insight into the spiritual
and symbolic meaning of the basilica and its
sculptures. Having finished your tour, don’t
miss the terrace outside, where you’ll be
treated to a wonderful view over the Cure
valley and the Morvan hills.
Gastronomy and Gardens
© Karen Tait
© Bart de Ruiter – BFC Tourisme
© Karen Tait
The picturesque, cobbled streets, with their
remarkably well-preserved medieval and
Renaissance houses, many of which would
have been home to winemakers, are well
worth a wander. You can still see parts of the
ramparts that surrounded the village, including
the imposing Porte Neuve with its two towers.
If you’ve ever watched La Grande Vadrouille,
one of the most popular films in French
cinema, you may recognise the scenery.
The village has a few museums including the
Zervos modern art museum, home to works
by Picasso, Miró and Giacometti, while the
Viollet-le-Duc museum, in the abbey’s former
chapter house, includes original sculptures and
carvings replaced by the architect during the
restoration. A stone’s throw from the basilica,
the Maison Jules Roy – the magnificent home
of the French writer – offers guided tours of
the house and terraced gardens.
There are plenty of good restaurants
serving wonderful local cuisine, think
boeuf bourguignon or a plate of escargots
accompanied by a hearty Burgundian red, or
a fish dish washed down with a Vézelay AOC
white wine. And some evenings there are
classical music concerts in the basilica, which
has superb acoustics. For an extra-special
experience, why not time your visit to coincide
with the Rencontres Musicales de Vézelay
festival in August, four days of sacred music
concerts from around the world.
Vézelay is at the edge of the Morvan Regional
Natural Park, with its lakes, forest and
hills, and is also surrounded by vineyards;
the Chablis vineyards are a little further
away, about a 40-minute drive. Many
holidaymakers combine their visit to Vézelay
with a wine-tasting experience at one of the
local domains. The Vézelay vineyards grow
Chardonnay grapes and are part of the Grand
Auxerrois wine region.
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Unveil the secrets of ancient châteaux
and savor the enchanting landscapes
with our expertly guided tours
loirevalleychateautours.com/tours
70 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 71

Montluçon with an industrial past, medieval
Moulins and Vichy the spa town. The
department is small: Moulins and Vichy are
only 48 km apart while Montluçon lies about
an hour’s drive from both.
Montluçon
Montluçon © Luc Olivier, ABA
Moulins © Luc Olivier, ABA
Far from the Madding
Crowd in Allier
Discover a secret part of France with stunning countryside, unspoiled medieval
villages and a spa town fit for an Emperor says Christina Mackenzie.
Where in France can you find a majestic
wild river, the nation’s largest collections of
musical instruments and stage costumes,
medieval and Belle Époque towns, orchards
and vineyards, rolling green countryside
criss-crossed by hedges and punctuated by
majestic oak-trees, lovingly restored villages
unspoilt by modern housing developments, a
UNESCO World Heritage site and, despite all
this, no crowds?
The answer is the Allier department
(named for the river) bang in the country’s
geographical centre. It has three main towns:
A good starting point is Montluçon which sits
in a shallow meander of the Allier’s quieter
river, the Cher. Louis II, Duke of Bourbon,
fortified the town in the Middle Ages, building
four city gates and restoring the church
of Notre Dame and the castle (which is
closed to the public). Today the city walls
have all but disappeared but the horseshoeshaped
Boulevard de Courtais marks their
emplacement.
From its perch the Château des Ducs de
Bourbon overlooks pedestrianised cobbled
streets lined with slightly dilapidated halftimbered
and stone houses. Next to the
warm yellow stones of Notre-Dame de
Montluçon church on the eponymous square
is a startling modern building “you either
love or hate,” my guide laughed. Designed
by Philippe Tixier, the MuPop Music Museum
was inaugurated in 2013.
This imaginatively curated museum is home
to France’s largest collection of musical
instruments from the 18 th century on. The
72 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 73

audio-guide – which is essential – allows you
to listen to a selection of these instruments.
Vichy
From Montluçon drive to Moulins through
some lovely landscape of small fields fringed
by hedges and studded with majestic oaks.
montlucon-tourisme.fr
Moulins
Moulins lies on the east bank of the Allier
river, the principal tributary of the Loire.
One of Europe’s few remaining wild rivers, its
unconstrained bed allows it to meander where
it pleases. The many windmills, watermills
and boat mills that used to dot the hillsides
and riverbanks and gave the town its name,
have long gone. But on the west bank there’s
a beach and swimming area, a playground,
a camping ground for up to 90 campervans.
and the beginning of the 5km long Sentier des
Castors pedestrian route. This is also where
you can rent a bicycle to discover the Via
Allier, a 9km traffic-free route that runs along
the riverbank from Chavennes to Bressolles
with Moulins at the midway point.
Exquisite costumes at the National Centre for Costume and Theatrical Design
© Christina Mackenzie
In the nearby Quartier Villars, a late 18th
century former barracks, you’ll be transported
into the colourful and joyous world of the
Paris Opera, the Comédie française, the
Bibliothèque nationale and other major
French theatres. In 2006 the National Centre
for Costume and Theatrical Design (Centre
national du costume et de la scène or CNCS)
Moulins © Luc Olivier, ABA
was installed here to conserve and exhibit
their costumes. There are currently over
10,000 in storage.
Visitors can also learn how scenery and props
are designed and made, even trying a bit of
hands-on painting themselves.
Before heading back to the Allier’s east bank
and Moulins’ historic city centre enjoy the
view of its four 19th century spires which
appear either to all belong to one building or
distinctly to Notre-Dame-de-l’Annonciation
cathedral and to the Sacré-Coeur church to
its fore and left.
Just behind the latter lies the triangularshaped
Place d’Allier where you can follow in
the footsteps of Gabrielle Chanel, aka Coco
Chanel, (who used to live in Moulins helping
her seamstress sister) by pausing in the
Grand Café: it’s been here since 1899 and
its décor, a sort of baroque Art Nouveau, has
remained intact.
The Grand Café where Gabriel Chanel used to sing and got her nickname Coco
as one of her most popular renditions was ‘Qui Qu'a Vu Coco dans l'Trocadéro?’
(Who saw Coco in Trocadero)! © Luc Olivier, ABA
Every 15 minutes the Jacquemart Tower’s
4-tonne bell tolls: Jacqueline and Jacquelin,
the automaton “children”, strike the 15, 30
and 45 minutes past the hour while the
“parents”, Jacquemart and Jacquette, strike
the hours… 24/7!
moulins-tourisme.com
Vichy © Julien Alexandre - Vichy Mon Amour
Vichy is one of the 11 Great Spas of Europe
which in July 2021 were jointly awarded a
UNESCO World Heritage label. Like the 10
others, Vichy was – and still is to a certain
degree – a place where people come seeking
curative and therapeutic effects from its waters.
Vichy developed largely thanks to Emperor
Napoleon III (1808-1873) who came five times
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74 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 75

to treat his renal colic. The train station, street
lay-out, and casino were all built on his orders.
There’s an eclectic mix of Anglo-Norman, Swiss,
colonial, Flemish Renaissance, Art Nouveau
and Gothic revival homes along the Allier river
built for wealthy members of his retinue.
In the 1930s
some 130,000
people a
year came to
Vichy for a
cure. Today
the number
has shrunk to
about 7,000
because doctor
prescribed cure
stays for French
citizens are now
less common –
Chomel water station at the Hall of Sources
and you need to
see a spa doctor for many of the programmes.
But there are plenty of spa and wellness
treatments on offer, and drinking water from
five of the nine sources is free and available
at several difference places. At the Hall of
Sources there are slightly different tastes:
Chomel, Grande Grille, Hôpital and Lucas
– one decidedly sulphury, one really salty
(“not salt, bicarbonate of sodium” my guide
corrected me), and the others…. mmeh! Water
from the Celestins source (950m south of the
Hall of Sources) is the one that’s most neutral
and sold bottled the world over.
I would never have entered the austere,
reinforced concrete Notre Dame des Malades
church (aka Saint Blaise), built between 1925
and 1956, without my guide. What a mistake
that would have been! Inside it’s an explosion
of colours from the slender lapis-lazuli columns
to the strong red, blues and greens of the
stained-glass windows via the shimmering gold
of the mosaics.
The 1903 Vichy Opera House is the only
one in Europe with a yellow, ivory and white
colour scheme.
vichymonamour.fr
Notre Dame des Malades church, © Cindy Michaud - Vichy Mon Amour
Charroux
For a rural change head to Charroux, 30
km west of Vichy, and the only village in the
Allier department to bear the “Most Beautiful
Villages in France” (Plus Beaux Villages de
France) label. It’s remarkable not only thanks
to its medieval stone buildings, grassy village
Charroux © Jeremy Flint
square and city gates but because 25 of its
360 inhabitants are artisans including “Des
Mots d’Emaux” where Nathalie Floch enamels
on lava; “Safran de Charroux” where you can
learn about growing, harvesting and using
saffron; “Terres de Couleurs” where ceramicist
Nathalie Nyault works at her potter’s wheel
and “Moutarde de Charroux” mustard makers.
En route to Charroux via the D37 you’ll drive
under the Rouzat railway viaduct built by
Eiffel (yes, he of the tower) but designed by
Wilhelm Nördling, which soars 59m above the
river Sioule.
You can travel to Vichy from Paris by train
from 3 hours. You can also travel between
the towns by train or bus.
allier-auvergne-tourisme.com
76 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 77

Montée du Moulin © Gregory Cassiau, Tarn Tourism
© Gillian Thornton
Hidden France:
The tranquil
TARN region
Discovering pink garlic and the painter Goya in the Tarn – Gillian Thornton
explores two beautiful, off the beaten track villages in southern France.
Lautrec
Mention the name Lautrec, and most
people think of 19 th century artist Henri de
Toulouse-Lautrec. Descended from both
the Viscounts of Lautrec and the powerful
Counts of Toulouse, Henri was born in Albi,
and today, the principal town in the Tarn
department is home to a unique museum
dedicated to his work.
There are no such tangible connections to
the artist in Lautrec, some 30 km from Albi,
but this pretty hilltop village in the Occitanie
region is popular with visitors seeking both
authentic community atmosphere and one
of France’s most celebrated food products.
Classified amongst Les Plus Beaux Villages de
France, the medieval village of Lautrec is not
only blessed with a well preserved natural and
architectural heritage, but is also famous for
its Ail Rose - Pink Garlic.
Lautrec’s narrow streets still feature many
traditional properties, its half-moon
marketplace lined with brick facades crisscrossed
with timbers above a ground-floor
arcade. Push the door of nearby Saint-Rémy
Collegiate church to find a lavishly decorated
interior and trompe l’œil vault, at complete
odds with the sober facade.
Relax over coffee in the shady courtyard
of Café Plum which offers a bookshop and
regional lunch dishes by day, and an eclectic
musical mix - from jazz and folk to rock and
flamenco on selected evenings. Then work
up an appetite for lunch by climbing the
steep but rewarding staircase of the Montée
du Moulin to the stone windmill. Still used
to grind flour for the local bakery, the 17 th
century mill is surrounded by a Botanic Trail
with panoramic views over terracotta roof
tiles to rolling countryside.
Walk through the historic streets of Lautrec
and you will almost certainly catch the
aroma of Pink Garlic as you pass by a Friday
morning market stall or a boutique selling
local produce. Grown only in a strictly
controlled area protected by European IGP
status, this iconic French flavouring also
carries the coveted Label Rouge quality
78 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 79

Born in 1746 in Spain, Francisco Goya was
apprenticed to an artist at the age of 15, rising
to become court painter to the King of Spain
until their political views diverged. Goya lived
his last three years in Bordeaux where he
died in 1828 and he had no connection with
Castres, so why a museum here?
It is all thanks to Pierre Biguiboul, a local
admirer of Spanish art, who in 1894
bequeathed his entire collection to the town’s
museum, including three paintings by Goya
and four series of his engravings numbering
around 40 each.
Windmill of Lautrec © Olivier Octobre, Tarn Tourism
Pink Garlic soup © Gillian Thornton
mark. Milder and sweeter than other garlic,
L’Ail Rose de Lautrec imparts a subtle flavour
to an impressive variety of dishes without
overpowering your tastebuds. Nor the air
around you!
Keen to taste the prized local product, I sit
down to lunch at L’Ocxalis, a stylish restaurant
where chefs Lydia Darasse and Thomas
Massoutier offer Pink Garlic at every course
for aficionados, plus other gastronomic fare.
Cream of Pink Garlic Soup is a revelation,
drizzled with oil from local Black Garlic made
by slow roasting pink cloves until the centre
is soft and subtly smoky. I enjoy more Pink
Garlic in a delicate sauce accompanying my
braised ham, and even in a small scoop of
ice-cream that goes with my rum-soaked baba
dessert. Unexpected but utterly delicious.
Sadly 2025 was a disastrous year for many
local producers of Lautrec’s prized product.
I visit in early summer and meet up with
Jean-François Tournier, former president of
the Ail Rose syndicate that oversees quality
and production. His family farm just outside
the village lay right in the path of a freak
hailstorm that destroyed the entire crop within
25 minutes and with it, 70% of the farm’s
annual income.
But after 45 years as a garlic farmer and
still an active member of the local festival
committee, Jean-François is philosophical.
Next year is bound to be better he says, and
fortunately, not every farm was affected, and
enough crop remained for the full-on Fête de
l’Ail that takes over the village during the first
weekend in August.
Look out too in Lautrec for goods made using
another signature local product. Not pink
this time, but blue. From the mid-15 th to 16 th
century, the village lay at the heart of the
dying industry. Until the middle of the 18 th
century, blue dye could only be obtained from
Lautrec © Gillian Thornton
the leaves of a yellow-flowered plant called
Isatis Tinctoria, or pastel (woad in English),
rendering blue clothing unaffordable to all but
the nobility.
Here in the Pays de Cockagne – Occitanie’s
‘Land of Plenty’ – plants were cultivated and
processed to produce the coveted dye. Wear
blue and your social standing was on show for
all to see, so Le Bleu du Tarn was highly prized.
Today pastel is still used for scarves, dresses
and shirts, as well as in skincare products,
thanks to the moisturising properties of the
seeds. Browse the ranges at La Ferme au
Village and resist if you can!
Castres
Historic Lautrec is surrounded by unspoilt
countryside, but lies only 15km from Castres,
second largest town in the Tarn after Albi.
Despite a modest population of just 40,000,
the town’s former Bishop’s Palace is home
to a unique attraction, the Goya Museum,
the most important Hispanic art museum in
France after the Louvre.
Goya, self-portrait
© Gillian Thornton
The Musée Goya
opened in 1947,
and underwent an
imaginative revamp
in 2023, centred of
course on the Goya
exhibits that include a
charming self-portrait
with glasses, painted in
the artist’s fifties at the
height of his success. With significant works by
great Spanish masters from the 14 th century to
the present day, this chronological journey is a
delight from start to finish.
I’m not a big fan of religious art but the vibrant
colours and 3D effect of the museum’s first
room are stunning, followed by a range of
Spanish styles and a section exploring their
effect on French artists. Boosted by loans
from The Louvre and other leading collections,
the museum includes works by Velasquez,
Murillo and Picasso.
Next to the museum, the riverside Jardin de
l’Evêché was created in 1700 in the classical
style of André Le Nôtre, gardener to King
Louis XIV, and is today classified as a Jardin
Remarquable for its topiary, ‘English borders’,
and multiple perspectives.
There is more vibrant colour beside the
museum where a rainbow of coloured facades
hug the banks of the Agout. Once housing all
manner of water-based trades, these private
homes now star in many an Instagram selfie.
Shoot from the bridges or from Le Miredames,
80 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 81

'Real' South of France Tours
a replica of a traditional wooden river
boat that cruises in summer months to the
Gourjade Park, 2.5km from the town centre.
Don’t leave Castres without exploring the
town centre where many major buildings
have recently been restored to their gleaming
original stone finish. And maybe linger over
a drink in Place Jean Jaurès beside the
statue of the Socialist politician and editor
of L’Humanité newspaper. Born here in 1859,
View over Castres © Gregory Cassiau, Tarn Tourism
Jaurès was assassinated in Paris in 1914 for his
anti-war stance and is buried in the Panthéon.
A man who argued for world peace from this
most tranquil corner of France.
For 4-star riverside accommodation
in Castres, try the Grand Hotel.
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82 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 83

© Toulouse Mairie
Violets found the perfect home in Toulouse
thanks to the climate and terroir, however,
the horticulturalists had their work cut out
for them. Fascinatingly, these violets were
originally believed to be sterile, as they
rarely produce seeds. 19th-century cultivator
Armand Millet found the solution by planting
cuttings and stolons, encouraging them to
take root. There are more than 300 species
of violets, but the Toulouse violet stands out
for its perfume and lots of petals, around 30-
40 is usual.
© Mark Marsh
Toulouse:
City of
Violets
Ally Mitchell explores the
southern city’s floral charms.
Toulouse is known as “la ville rose” thanks to
its red brick buildings. But just as importantly,
Toulouse is the city of violet. Every cobbled
street seems to have a shop enrobed in regal
purple. The football team is known as “Les
Violettes” as their jerseys are purple. When
Queen Elizabeth II visited the city in 2004, she
wore bright violet. The colour is inextricably
linked to the city thanks to a small unassuming
flower with a big influence.
Many of us may not easily place the appearance
or scent of violets, discrete as they are. They
don’t possess the potency of lavender, another
purple plant of southern France, nor are they
famous for their multiple uses in scents and
edibles. Yet the Violette de Toulouse has been
a registered trademark since 1985 and, as a
result, is a symbol of the whole Haute-Garonne
department. A silent but scented takeover.
According to legend, violets arrived in
Toulouse thanks to a romantic gesture. A
soldier stationed in Northern Italy under
Napoleon III in 1854 returned to Toulouse with
a bunch of violets for his beloved. They were
Parma violets, mentioned in Italian texts as
far back as the 16 th century, though they were
apparently known to grow in Constantinople
long before then.
© Toulouse Mairie
Violets are fussy when it comes to the weather
– they don’t flourish in hot sunshine nor in the
bitter cold. The solution was to grow them
under glass. Municipal greenhouses were built
in the latter half of the 19th century and, now
registered as historical monuments, are still in
use today.
84 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 85

© Toulouse Mairie
In the 19th century, 600 family businesses
earned a living from the sale of violets, the
annual production amounting to 30 tonnes.
The demand grew so exponentially that
the flowers were soon exported to England,
Germany, Russia, and Morocco. Harvested
from October to March, the violets were also
sold at markets as a winter flower alongside
fruit and vegetables.
The 20 th century saw
an explosion in the
production of violet
goods, now no longer
limited to just the
cut flowers. The first
bonbons – crystallised
Crystallised violets
violet petals – made
an appearance. Today they are an iconic
mainstay of Toulousain souvenir shops. This led
to their export around Europe and the city’s
favourite cocktail, the Kir Royal Toulousain,
with a crystallised violet dropped into a glass
of Champagne or sparkling wine. In the
1950s, Toulouse’s liqueur makers Benoit Serres
developed violet liqueur from the plants’ roots
– and the recipe remains a secret to this day!
Since then, the gastronomic delights of
violets have been explored with boundless
enthusiasm, from garnishing chocolates and
fudge with the crystallised bonbons, to more
imaginative delicacies like the Paris-Toulouse
– a delicious local take on the Paris-Brest
sandwiched with an extra layer of violet cream
filling – and the gourmet (and somewhat
Even the football team’s bus is violet coloured!
Luc-Eric Manneville via Wikimedia Commons
© Toulouse Mairie
questionable) épicerie selections of violet
vinegar, violet mustard, and violet jams.
Despite the city’s ongoing renown for violets,
it has not always been a smooth ride for
Toulouse’s horticulturalists. In 1956, the
crop was largely destroyed by a bitter frost,
and along with the introduction of more
resistant species, the Toulouse violet faced an
enormous market slump. Thirty years later, the
Haute-Garonne Chamber of Agriculture and
the Midi-Pyrénées Regional Council did what
they could to save the city’s violets, starting
with a research programme and reproducing
the plants in vitro. Now, over 300 species
grow at the Conservatoire National de la
Violette in the city’s municipal greenhouses.
Writer Ally indulging in a violet flavoured waffle at La Fête de la Violette
There is a long list of violet-related
associations in Toulouse, including La
Confrerie de la Violette – one of France’s
many medieval-style brotherhoods – and
Les Amis de la Violette. For twenty years,
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the associations have teamed together to
organise an annual celebration of cultural
events and to sell artisanal delicacies,
preserving the city’s longstanding violet
tradition. Every February, La Fête de la
Violette takes place in the city’s central
square, Place du Capitole. Snacks include
crepes and waffles sprinkled in violet
sugar, and the weekend hosts potting
workshops and other activities. It’s here
that you’ll discover the forgotten and
unusual history of violets – including
the traditional violet seller dolls and the
election of Miss Toulouse, Reine de la
Violette (the Violet Queen).
By honouring this unassuming little flower,
Toulouse is presenting the world with its
emblem. Without anyone noticing, violets
have bewitched the locals, bestowing la
ville rose with another nickname – the city
of violets.
Find details for the festival and other events
in Toulouse at: metropole.toulouse.fr
86 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 87

Belleville Valley © Vincent Lottenberg
DISCOVER the
The French alpine paradise is perfect for
lovers of the great outdoors and great
food says Rudolf Abraham.
It’s early summer in the Vallée des Belleville,
and I’m at the start of a three-week trip in the
Alps with my teenage daughter. Perhaps best
known as a winter destination – it forms part
of Les 3 Vallées, the largest ski area in the
world, and it includes Val Thorens, at 2,300m
the highest ski resort in Europe. Here local
tradition meets understated boutique luxury,
while jaw-dropping scenery and oodles of
marked hiking trails are offset by picturesque
villages and fabulous gastronomy and makes
for a fabulous destination year-round.
We spend our first night in Les Menuires,
heading out for dinner at La Fromagerie –
because nothing says welcome to Savoie quite
like a big pot of simmering fondue. It’s only a
30-minute stroll up to Lac de Lou, on a broad,
well-trodden path, but we take a slightly
longer route, walking with local guide Roland
Lelay. In between snippets of local history, we
learn how to spot the difference between the
similar-looking yellow gentian and hellebore –
the former often used to make eau de vie, the
latter extremely toxic.
For many, the most beautiful village
hereabouts is Saint-Martin-de-Belleville –
and with its traditional stone houses, window
boxes overflowing with flowers, small Baroque
church and great big mountain views, it’s
hard not to agree. We stay at the Hotel Lodji,
which is excellent and has something of a
Nordic feel. The museum, next door to the
tourist office, is a good place to learn about
the development of Val Thorens – and about
local cheesemaking. And just a couple of
kilometres away, the Ferme de la Trantsa in
Le Châtelard is a great place for a spot of
cheese tasting. The small sheep farm and
artisan cheesemaking is run by sisters Jennifer
and Samantha Jay and it’s lovely to see the
ewes, sheltering quietly on the adjacent
hillside, in the shade of long, low branches
and old drystone walls. Their Tomme de brebis
has a soft, ivory-cream centre giving way to
an ochre-coloured rind, and the flavour is
Vallée des Belleville
Church of Notre-Dame de la Vie, Saint Martin-de-Belleville © Vincent Lottenberg
88 | The Good Life France
Saint-Martin-de-Belleville village © Vincent Lottenberg
The Good Life France | 89

Ferme de la Trantsa © Rudolf Abraham
deliciously rich – only slightly salty, with some
nutty notes.
Cheese tasting at the Ferme de la Trantsa
© Vincent Lottenberg
Tasting tomme de
brebis is thirsty
work – or at least,
that’s my excuse
– meaning a cold
beer is in order.
So we head over
to Brâva Vela,
a small organic
brewery housed in a converted former goat
farm, also in Le Châtelard. Julien Arto, cofounder
of Brâva Vela, meets us outside, and
after a quick tour of the brewery, we head
into the tap room. ‘So’ he suggests, rubbing
his hands together enthusiastically, ‘shall we
try some beers?’
Brâva Vela offers three classic, signature
brews – a blonde, a blanche, and a brown
ale, named La Belleville, La Thorens and La
Masse respectively – along with a crisp IPA,
and several seasonal numbers. Lemon peel
and dried elderflowers say the tasting notes
on the bottle of La Thorens Julien is pouring –
which sums it up pretty well. La Thorens took
the silver medal at the prestigious Concours
International de Lyon in 2023 and 2024.
La Passionette, a passionfruit New England
IPA which was extremely refreshing – and
alarmingly drinkable – on a sunny afternoon in
late July.
I ask Julien, originally from Paris, why he
and co-founder Sophie Belorgey chose the
Belleville Valley when they set up the brewery
in 2023. ‘Well, it needed one’ he replies after
a brief pause, his expression creasing into a
broad and rather contagious smile beneath his
flat cap. Then, more specifically, he goes on
to highlight the purity of the water in this most
beautiful corner of the French Alps, and the
abundance of local produce in Savoie, much
of it organic.
Hiking offers breath-taking vistas © Rudolf Abraham
with local queens, weakening swarms and
making them less able to withstand the harsh
mountain environment. With this in mind a
conservation project was established in the
remote Vallée des Encombres, with an apiary
and breeding program in an area free from
imported bees.
Local beekeeper Kelly Duqueine, who
oversees the project in the Encombres Valley,
stops to chat with us outside the museum.
Kelly worked as a beekeeper in Canada
and elsewhere for several years. Eventually
though she returned to promote small-scale,
sustainable beekeeping in the mountains of
Savoie, in the hope of preserving the local
black bee species here.
Brâva Vela brewery © Thibault Forcet
Encombres Valley © Maximilien Bree
Returning to Les Menuires we visit the small
Mellifera Museum by the banks of the river.
Mellifera – the Museum of Nature and the
Black Bee to give it its full name, is dedicated
to the native black bee, an incredibly robust
and hard-working little insect, which is
nevertheless in danger due to the widespread
importing of non-local bees into the valley.
These imported bees then cross breed
For the most local and authentic flavour of
the Vallée des Belleville, look up. Dotted
among the breathtaking mountains which
surround the valley and its pretty villages,
are some wonderful mountain huts, where
the food is fantastic. Refuge du Lac de Lou
is one example, set on the edge of a lake,
tucked off the main valley and backed by a
wall of mountains. Along with the stunning
location and atmosphere in spades, the food
is outstanding – like many of the mountain
huts hereabouts, locals come here to eat as
Refuge Plan Lombardie © Vincent Lottenberg
much as for the setting. Others include Refuge
de Gittamelon and Refuge Plan Lombardie.
Both these refuges lie on a road, so you can
easily reach them by car, or by ebike. We
90 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 91

Bureau des Guides © Yann Allegre
Refuge de Gittamelon © Vincent Lottenberg
Hiking is hungry work! © Rudolf Abraham
walked between them, as part of a four-day
hike which led us in a spectacular horseshoeshaped
route through the mountains and
valleys west of Les Menuires and Saint-Martinde-Belleville,
part of the vaguely defined and
epically long Tour de Tarentaise.
Refuge de Gittamelon is set in a pretty
hamlet, halfway up the Vallée des Encombres
– we arrive after hiking over from Lac du Lou.
After sitting out on the terrace enjoying the
late afternoon sun, with a well-earned bottle
of La Thorens (yours truly) and a book of
GCSE revision questions (the lucky teenager),
we head inside for dinner. We begin with an
enormous salad, then move on to a delicious
and fabulously rich variation of a tartiflette,
with masses of potato slithers embedded
in cream and cheese, oven-baked and still
sizzling. For dessert there are feathery light
crêpes, smothered with local jam, all topped
off with impeccable coffee. The theme
continues at Refuge Plan Lombardie, set at
1764m towards the head of a gorgeous valley,
below the iconic Cheval Noir. Here we enjoy
a huge bowl of crozets – small, traditional
square-shaped pasta which has been a Savoie
staple since at least the 17th century and
might just be the ultimate comfort food, in this
case cooked with cream and mushrooms.
‘Would you like a digestif?’ hints Emmanuel,
the hut warden, turning to our table and
gesturing towards a cluster of half a dozen
homemade spirits and liqueurs. I pick the
gentian eau de vie, and hope for the best.
lesmenuires.com/vallee-des-bellevilles
92 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 93

The factory at Jouy in 1807, the cloth laid out to dry, painted by Jean-Baptiste Huet
Toile de Jouy was awarded the “Manufacture Royale” title in 1783
Toile de Jouy
You may not have heard of Toile de Jouy, but the chances are you’ll recognise it.
Printed cloth which most often features whimsical country scenes in a single colour
on a white background, it was created in the 1700s in a village near Paris, became a
best-selling icon and remains a timeless fabric - the epitome of French savoir faire
says Janine Marsh.
Toile de Jouy literally means ‘cloth from Jouy’,
referring to the village of Jouy-en-Josas,
in the Eure-et-Loir department, just a few
miles from the Palace of Versailles. And it’s
here that you’ll find the fascinating Musée
de la Toile de Jouy which is dedicated to its
extraordinary history.
The story really begins in the 1600s when the
East India Company ferried colourful cotton
Indian textiles to Europe. Printed in bright,
bold colours, it was hard wearing, easy to wash
and cheap – a powerful rival to local textile
products of silk, wool and linen. It caused so
much panic in France that in 1686, King Louis
XIV announced a ban on “Indian fabrics”
which was enforced until 1759. Despite this, it
remained popular, and even King Louis XV’s
mistress, Madame de Pompadour openly
flouted the rules, using the fabric In her
wardrobe and home.
When the ban was officially lifted, Germanborn
Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf, a
Paris-based textile engraver and designer,
partnered with an investor to open a company
printing cloth in Jouy-en-Josas in 1760. It was
the perfect location, just a few miles Paris
and Versailles, and near an essential river to
provide water for the dye process, and forest
for firewood.
Oberkampf’s printed patterns were an
instant success. By 1793, before the French
Revolution, Toile de Jouy was the second
most important factory in France (Saint-
Gobain, a glass factory established in 1665
was the premier producer). At its peak some
1300 employees of Toile de Jouy toiled day
and night to produce material which was
exported all over the world used for clothes
and home furnishings.
The fabric was expensive but popular, and
certainly every aristocratic home had some.
Louis XVI awarded the company the title
of “Manufacture Royale” in 1783. By royal
decree, Oberkampf marked his fabric “bon
teint” – assuring the dye would last (except
for blue which was notoriously difficult to
make fast). Queen Marie-Antoinette loved
it and visited the factory in 1781. Even after
the French Revolution, Toile de Jouy was the
fabric of choice. Napoleon Bonaparte visited
the factory twice and awarded Oberkampf the
Dress and furnishings in Toile de Jouy,
a portrait of Oberkampf on the wall at
the Musée de Toile de JouyHuet
94 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 95

The miller, his son and the donkey, Jean-Baptiste Huet, 1797
King Louis XVI swearing an oath of loyalty to the people on the Altar of Liberty,
Jean-Baptiste Huet, 1790
Monuments of Egypt, Jean Baptiste-Huet, 1807
Multi-coloured Toile de Jouy
Copper plate pattern (at the Musée Lambinet, Versailles)
legion of Honour medal in 1806, and his wife
Empress Josephine adored the cloth.
The factory was not to have everlasting
success though, it went bankrupt in the 1840s.
But, some 265 years after Oberkampf started
his business, Toile de Jouy style remains a
prominent design feature in homes all over
France and beyond – the pattern is featured
on the handles of cutlery, candle holders,
bed linen, cushions, teapots and lampshades,
anything and everything. And go to any
chateau in France, and you’re sure to spot
Toile de Jouy somewhere – it’s a classic look.
Toile de Jouy’s
timeless appeal
patterns were enormously diverse. By the
time of his death in 1815, Oberkampf had
listed 30,000 patterns. They included topics
from popular novels such as Robinson Crusoe
and Don Quixote, Greek allegories, the
fables of La Fontaine, foreign countries from
Rome to Egypt, and current affairs including
factory workers going about their day and
the invention of hot air balloons – depicted
floating over the Tuileries Gardens. Benjamin
Franklin even made an appearance, and
in 1790, the year after the storming of the
Bastille in Paris on July 14, which heralded the
start of the French Revolution, Huet created
a special anniversary Bastille Day pattern
featuring King Louis XVI swearing an oath of
loyalty to the people on the Altar of Liberty.
Just a few years later, he was featured in a
pattern depicting his beheading.
Toile de Jouy flavoured bedroom at the Chateau of Lourmarin, Provence
A single colour printed scene on a white
background may not sound exciting, but
Oberkampf was innovative and imaginative.
He used a copper-plate printing technique,
invented in Ireland in the 1750s, which allowed
patterns to become much more detailed. He
hired top artists of the day to design patterns
including Jean-Baptiste Huet, a renowned
painter influenced by the Rococo style, and a
member of the Royal Academy of Arts whose
work was hung in the Louvre.
And if you think Toile de Jouy is all about
ladies on swings in the countryside, and
picnics of the aristos, think again. The
Oberkampf created pattern books which he
sent to his customers worldwide, twice a year.
He founded a chemistry school and sent his
workers there to improve their learning. A new
technique required ‘pencillers’ to use their own
hair to paint with – achieving an astonishing
level of complexity – essentially each pattern
was a work of art. He collaborated with other
producers to feature his patterns on matching
china, wallpaper and furniture.
The Musée de Toile de Jouy, in the Chateau
d’Eglantine, has a dazzling collection – more
than 12,000 pieces including fabrics from
the 18 th century to the present day, paintings,
96 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 97

Toile de Jouy éclair at the Dolce Versailles restaurant
Demolition of the Bastille
The detail achieved was extraordinary
furniture, tools and more. You can take a
self-guided tour of the Museum (most of the
displays are in French and English), and in
the warmer months enjoy coffee in the pretty
garden. And if you’re a fan of Toile de Jouy –
leave plenty of time to visit the fabulous shop
which is full of fanciful, frivolous Toile things.
You can walk to the museum from the station
(about 15 minutes) and trains run to the town
direct from Versailles (from 15 minutes).
Enjoy the Toile theme further at the nearby
Domaine de Montcel Dolce Versailles
hotel which was the former home of
Oberkampf. The 18 th century chateau has
had a chequered past, functioning as a boys
boarding school from 1923-1980, except
from 1940-1944 when it was used as the
headquarters of the German Air Force (a
bunker is still in the grounds) with much of
it burned down when they left. The building
has changed hands several times since then
and became an artistic and cultural venue
(two monumental modern artworks remain
Toile de Jouy shoes in
the museum’s boutique
in the grounds). The listed garden, which was
the pride and joy of Madame Oberkampf, is
glorious. Don’t miss the Toile de Jouy themed
eclairs here – utterly delicious and a fitting
ode to the former owner.
The traditional designs of Toile de Jouy have
stood the test of time – an almost 300-yearold
fashion style that’s still on trend.
Musee de la Toile de Jouy:
museedelatoiledejour.fr
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98 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 99

The arty, cobbled streets of Mougins are festooned with flowers
Mougins © Mougins Tourism Droneaway
Spotlight on MOUGINS
A feast for the senses
Perched high above the glittering coastline of the French Riviera, Mougins is
a sun-kissed hilltop village crowned with terracotta roofs and narrow streets
adorned with flowers and lined with galleries and restaurants. Artists, writers,
chefs and dreamers have all fallen for Mougins - it’s a little corner of paradise
says Janine Marsh.
Mougins may only be 6km from cosmopolitan
Cannes, the city of the glamorous film festival,
iconic boulevard the Croisette where people
promenade to see and be seen, and beaches
packed with sun-bathers – but it’s a whole
world away from the razzle dazzle of its
famous neighbour.
It was the light, beauty and tranquillity that
first attracted artists to Mougins. Pablo
Picasso spent the last 12 years of his life
nearby in a chateau, Mas Notre-Dame-de-
Vie, which he bought from the Guinness
family as a wedding present for his future
wife Jacqueline. He died in Mougins in 1973,
sealing the village’s place in art history. The
“La tête de Picasso” by Gabriel Sterk, Place des Patriote
tourist office (their building was Picasso’s
studio!) offers a guided tour of Mougins
following in Picasso’s footsteps (English and
French) including a visit to the artist’s bedroom
in the former Hotel Vaste Horizon where there
are photos by Dora Maar, Picasso’s muse
and lover, and Man Ray. The list of creatives
who flocked to Mougins is long, from Jean
Cocteau, Charlie Chaplin and Christian Dior
to Winston Churchill and the Rolling Stones.
Ever since, Mougins has been a magnet for
artists, with some 30 art galleries and studios
in a village of just 150 inhabitants.
100 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 101

The bridge at Monet’s Garden, Giverny by Blanche Hoschedé-Monet
FAMM
Each September, Mougins hosts Les Étoiles
de Mougins, one of France’s most celebrated
gastronomic festivals. For several days, the
village becomes an open-air kitchen with
tastings, workshops and demonstrations by
top chefs from across France and beyond.
If you plan to come at this time, book well
ahead. The secret is very much out.
Relaxed bistros serve Provençal classics
where everything revolves around the
ingredients: olive oil, sun-warmed tomatoes,
herbs that smell as though they were picked
five minutes ago, fish brought up from the
coast below.
Lunches stretch. Rosé is chilled. Meals feel
like the point of the day rather than a pause in
it – art de vivre, the art of living well is a way
of life here.
I loved La Reserve, a secret bar in a luxury
resort right in the centre of the village. You
don’t need to be resident to enjoy a coffee
during the day or an aperitif on their terrace
with jaw dropping views over the countryside.
As evening falls, the village grows quieter and
the hills around fade to dusky blue. Mougins is
timeless, enchanting and likely to steal a piece
of your heart – it certainly did mine.
mouginstourisme.com
cotedzurfrance.com
Small it may be, but Mougins has big art
credentials including the Mougins Art
Centre, Mougins Photography Centre, the
Old Wash House which hosts temporary art
exhibitions, and FAMM, Femmes Artistes du
Musée de Mougins - the first major museum
dedicated to women artists in Europe. It
hosts a fascinating exhibition of paintings,
sculptures and photographs, ranging from
19th century artists like Berthe Morisot and
Blanche Hoschedé-Monet, daughter-in-law
and student of Claude Monet to Frida Kahlo,
Tracy Emin, Barbara Hepworth and top
emerging artists.
The town’s spiral layout was designed for
defence, but today the labyrinth of picturesque
cobblestoned streets lined with honeycoloured
medieval buildings, hung with bright
bougainvillea and scented jasmine, and dotte
with little squares edged with cafés shaded by
plane trees, is perfect for wandering.
Mougins is at its most magical in the morning
light or at dusk as the sun begins to slide down
Pétanque on the Place des Patriotes
behind the hills. Wander the old village, pop
into galleries, and don’t rush lunch – this is
a place to soak up the atmosphere, people
watch and simply feel the moment. Play
pétanque on the lovely Place des Patriotes
with a panoramic view – pop into the tourist
office and they’ll lend you their boules for free!
Climb the bell tower of the Saint-Jacques-le-
Majeur church, to get a bird’s eye view over
the Bay of Cannes and the Lérins Islands.
If art is the soul of Mougins, its heart is
gastronomy. The village is known as one of the
gastronomic capitals of the French Riviera —
and it takes food seriously. It’s the only town
in France to be awarded the “Ville et Métier
d’Art” label for gastronomy!
A Taste of Provence. © Exquisite, all-inclusive, small group tours
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102 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 103

techniques beneath a backdrop of forested
slopes and craggy mountain peaks. Add
in a sparkling blue sky and golf has never
seemed quite so attractive.
South-west of Grenoble, the Vercors is one of
four major massifs in Isère, a département in
the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region that offers
contrasting experiences according to the time
of year. Here at Corrençon-en-Vercors, the
clubhouse caters for cross-country skiers and
snowshoe enthusiasts between December
and March, before the snows melt and
golfers return along with hikers, climbers and
mountain bikers.
Golf Villard-Corrençon ©Juliette Rebour
Spotlight
on ISÈRE
Autrans-Méaudre-en-Vercors, Isere © Gillian Thornton
Home to dramatic mountains and lush
valleys, Isère offers stunning scenery
and fantastic flavours. Gillian Thornton
embraces its enviable food and lifestyle.
Ball games are really not my thing, but
the stunning scenery of the Vercors massif
could be just the inspiration I need to
take up golf. Romain Menard, course pro
at Golf de Corrençon, is demonstrating
I’m visiting in the tranquil shoulder season
when hoteliers and restaurateurs take a
deep breath before the next influx of visitors.
The course is quiet, and I’m surprised to find
myself warming to the small white ball. The
experience is enhanced still further by the
adjacent Hotel du Golf and its Michelinstarred
restaurant, Astérales, named after
a family of flowering plants with wellbeing
properties. Restaurant owner and chef Ludovic
Nardozza certainly ups my wellbeing with his
culinary magic.
My golf interlude is part of a short break
around Grenoble, departmental capital
of Isère and host city for the 1968 Winter
Olympics. Outdoor sports are big business
here all year and, west of the city, I come
across an Olympic legacy in the village of
Autrans-Méudre-en-Vercors. Hiking up one
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squares of dark
chocolate flavoured
with aromatic plants,
and there is a sweet
treat here to please
every palette.
Lac de Paladru © Gillian Thornton
and alcohol-free, flavourings for water.
Founded in 1898 and named after the Latin
for ‘against thirst’, Antésite was France’s
first ultra-concentrated drink. Choose from
liquorice-based or fruit flavours.
Sandrine Chappaz, master chocolate
maker © Gillian Thornton
Winding still further
up a wooded
mountain road,
I pass the idyllic
alpine setting of
the Musée de la
Grande Chartreuse,
a former annexe of the nearby monastery.
Discover more about the order founded in
1084 by St Bruno or if, like me, you arrive
after hours, just walk through the open gate
and enjoy the serenity.
Saint-Pierre-de-Chartreuse © Gillian Thornton
of the many marked trails close to my base
at Hotel La Buffe, I stop to watch local
youngsters fly down the artificial slope used in
the 1968 Nordic Competition that combines
ski jumping and cross-country skiing.
Like many rural communities, Autrans is home
to a weekly market of local produce, but it can
be hard making a living here. Enter AFRAT, an
organisation based in Autrans that has been
fighting the rural exodus for more than 60
years by supporting sustainable development
projects in mountain and rural areas, many of
them in hospitality and tourism businesses.
Chartreuse © Michael Battaglia
Organic,
sustainable
food is a
priority
amongst Isère’s
restaurateurs
and growers,
so I drop in at
L’Entropie, a
small business
in Autrans that
has been building a reputation since 2021 for
organic spirits distilled from local plants. Visit
Les Caves de Chartreuse, Voiron
© Laurent RAVIER, Agence Grenoble Alpes
the distillery and boutique to taste their range
of organic Alpine liqueurs, gin, vodka, anisette
and seasonal specials, and maybe even book
an interactive workshop.
North of Autrans, the Isère river divides the
Vercors massif from the Chartreuse, a name
synonymous with green and yellow liqueurs
produced since 1737 from a secret mix of
plants by the silent order of Carthusian monks.
The monastery itself is closed to outsiders but
visitors can discover the history and flavour
of their digestif on a guided visit of Les Caves
de Chartreuse in Voiron, gateway to the
Chartreuse massif.
Don’t even try to resist the spacious Bonnat
chocolate shop beneath the plane trees on
Voiron’s Cours Senozan, across from the
elegant twin spires of Saint Bruno Church.
Launched in the late 19 th century, this family
business is one of France’s oldest chocolate
makers and one of the few who craft their
chocolate directly from the coca bean. Utterly
scrumptious and the perfect portable souvenir!
On the outskirts of Voiron, I call in at the
Antésite factory shop to sample their additive,
Twenty minutes’ drive beyond Voiron and
500 metres above sea level, I discover one of
Isère’s best kept secrets, France’s fifth largest
glacial lake. The sapphire waters of Lac de
Paladru are surrounded by low hills, lush
woodland and four bijou beaches.
Enjoy a circular lakeside walk of some 14km;
hire a bike to explore the higher trails; or strike
out with a kayak, paddle board or pedalo. And
don’t miss the excellent Archaeology Museum,
opened in 2022 to showcase Neolithic and
Medieval artefacts found underwater at
Charavines at the southern tip of the lake.
The Hotel des Bains at Charavines is a mustdo
experience for anyone who loves authentic
bistronomie food in traditional surroundings.
Third generation owner Martin Perino has
preserved fragments of his granny’s wallpaper,
uncovered during redecoration, amongst the
wealth of period photos around the walls.
The welcome is warm, the portions generous,
and booking strongly recommended,
especially at weekends.
Heading back through Voiron, I drive up into
the Chartreuse massif, stopping in St-Laurentdu-Pont
to visit artisan chocolate maker and
patissier Sandrine Chappez. Amongst her
many imaginative creations are scrumptious
Chamechaude, the highest peak in the Chartreuse Massif
Turn south and the road passes over the
Col de Porte beneath the bare summit of
Chamechaude, the highest peak in the
Chartreuse at 2082 metres. Just 20 minutes’
drive from Grenoble, the woodland hiking
trails and downhill ski runs make this popular
with city dwellers. Stay over at Domaine de
Rozan, an eco-friendly hotel and bistro in
alpine style. The interior exudes the enticing
aroma of fresh wood, whilst outside the fire pit
proves an atmospheric twilight kitchen for my
delicious prawn starter.
Next day, a morning hike sharpens my
appetite for lunch at Restaurant La Veyrie at
Bernin. Beautifully restored, this 11 th century
fortified house and watchtower occupies
106 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 107

Ludovic Nardozza chef at Asterales
restaurant © Gillian Thornton
a commanding
position above the
Isère Valley 15km
from Grenoble.
Expect a homely
atmosphere,
spacious terrace,
and great
bistronomie food.
Grenoble, Isère’s
principal city
stands at a
valley crossroads
surrounded by mountains, bisected by the
Isère, and dominated by the hilltop Bastille
built in the 19th century. The historic centre
offers a number of free collections including
art from the 13th to 21st century at the Musée
de Grenoble, and local history in the Musée
de L’Ancien Eveché beside Notre-Dame
Cathedral. For quiet accommodation close
to the railway station, book a room at Maison
Barbillon.
Grenoble © Pierre Jayet
For those with a head for heights, the iconic
Grenoble experience is a 6-minute cable car
ride in one of the five Bulles (bubbles) across
the Isère river to the summit of the Bastille.
Enjoy panoramic views over the Chartreuse,
The Bulles of Grenoble © Gillian Thornton
Vercors and Belledonne massifs, then walk
across the grassy plateau behind the ramparts
for a gastronomic treat with a view at Chez
le Per'Gras which celebrates its 130th
anniversary in 2026.
Fifth generation restaurateur Laurent
Gras combines traditional recipes with a
contemporary twist, but one recipe that never
changes is Gratin Dauphinois. Signature
dish from the ancient province of Dauphiné
surrounding Grenoble, this creamy potato dish
is a firm favourite with locals and visitors alike.
Tuck in!
GETTING THERE
Drive east from Tournon-sur-Rhône or Valence
in the Rhône Valley. Or travel by direct highspeed
train from Paris-Gare de Lyon to
Grenoble in just three hours.
Thinking about relocating to France but
uncertain about what you need to know?
Our free live webinars provide direct access to our
team of experts who can address all your questions about the
visa application process, French residency requirements, navigating
French bureaucracy, and more aspects of moving to France.
Sign up for our upcoming sessions.
www.fabfrenchinsurance.com
108 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 109

The old quarter of Quimper © Soazig Logeat, toutcommenceenfinistere
5
top spots to visit
Spring in Brittany © Janine Marsh
in Brittany in
the spring
Brittany’s regional identity is very distinctive, famous for its wealth of coastlines,
countryside and culture as well as its Celtic roots. Local Annaliza Davis shares her
insider tips for exploring a few lesser-known areas of this beautiful region.
Quimper (Finistère)
This charming city has cobbled streets of
colourful timbered buildings and café-lined
squares that are perfect for people-watching
and a spot of springtime shopping. Take a
wander and enjoy the spring sunshine at the
fountain in Place Terre au Duc, indulge in crêpes
in Place au Beurre and linger over drinks in
Place Saint-Corentin. Quimper is dominated by
a twin-spired cathedral, which was completely
renovated thirty years ago. Its bright interior
has countless architectural details and one
curious kink: walk to the end, look back and
you’ll notice that it’s not quite aligned!
Across from the cathedral is the fine arts
museum, while next door – in the former
Bishop’s palace – is the Musée Bréton,
bursting with artefacts from Brittany. The
beautiful River Odet runs through the city
centre towards the seaside resort of Benodet.
Walk along the riverbank slightly beyond
the centre to the Locmaria district, home to
Quimper’s famous ceramics industry.
Culture: Quimper is synonymous with
Faïence, a glazed earthenware crafted here
since 1690. The blue-and-yellow designs of
HB-Henriot feature hand-painted Breton
characters and flowers in naïve style; they’re
instantly recognisable, particularly the iconic
breakfast bowls with ‘ears’. Find examples in
local shops and the Musée de la Faïence in
Locmaria.
Tastebuds: Whether sweet or savoury, indulge
in thin, crispy crêpes that are traditional in
Brittany, ideally accompanied by local cider in
a small earthenware
Kouign Amann
bowl. Also try Kouign
Amann, invented in
nearby Douarnenez:
this caramelised cake
is made from bread
110 | The Good Life France
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dough, butter and sugar, but is well worth the
calories!
toutcommenceenfinistere.com/en
the GR34 coastal path. Start with Europe’s
tallest lighthouse, Île Vièrge (open April to
October), and follow the lighthouses south to
Pointe Saint-Mathieu, which is open all year
round.
Les Abers (Finistère)
In the very northwest of France above the
city of Brest sits a little-known coastal
region known as Les Abers. Here, the marine
landscapes have a strangely ethereal
atmosphere, and it can be hard to distinguish
where the watery horizon meets the sky. The
spring light and dreamlike scenery create a
haven for photographers, artists and walkers,
captivated by views that you simply cannot
find elsewhere.
Culture: At Pointe Saint-Mathieu, explore
the haunting abbey ruins and the touching
museum set in a former German bunker,
where the history of World War Two in Brittany
is told through artefacts and witness accounts.
Tastebuds: The Hostellerie de la Pointe Saint-
Mathieu is a Michelin-starred restaurant run
by Nolwenn Corre, the first female chef to
earn a Michelin star in Finistère.
toutcommenceenfinistere.com/en
Paimpol © Janine Marsh
As Aber is also known as a tideway, a
particular type of estuary that has a huge
contrast between high tide and low tide. When
the sea recedes here, you are left with vast
stretches of sand that are often shrouded
in mist, and where the offshore lighthouses
are clearly vital: there are more per square
kilometre here than anywhere else in Europe.
You can explore the Lighthouse Trail (Route
des Phares) by car, on the V45 cycle trail or
Abers © Alexandre Lamoreux, toutcommenceenfinistere
Abbey ruins Pointe Saint-Mathieu,
© Alexandre Lamoreux,
toutcommenceenfinistere
Paimpol (Côtes-d’Armor)
On the north coast, halfway between Roscoff
and Saint-Malo, Paimpol is a quintessential
Breton town. It has a heritage port filled with
bobbing boats, winding medieval streets and
pretty half-timbered houses dating back to
the 1500s. Paimpol was once the top offshore
fishing port in France with as many as 80
schooners sailing for six months at a time to
catch cod in Newfoundland or Iceland.
Nowadays, this harbour town is more leisurely.
The Tuesday-morning market brings added
bustle to Place du Martray and the Latin
quarter but any number of independent
boutiques and galleries in Paimpol make
shopping a truly pleasurable activity.
Tastebuds: This bay
is shellfish heaven,
and the season runs
from late September
to April so it’s an
ideal time to enjoy
the last catches of
the year. Indulge in
the ‘paimpolaise’
oyster, scallops
(coquilles Saint-
Jacques) and crabs, and if you come later in
spring, look out for the stunning Loguivy blue
lobster, fished from June to December.
Vitré (Ille-et-Vilaine)
A short distance southeast of Paimpol,
L’Abbaye de Beauport was once the most
beautiful abbey in Brittany and is now an
elegant silhouette of ruins facing the sea. It
was a religious and economic hub for nearly
six centuries until it was looted in the French
Revolution.
Culture: Paimpol is a recognised centre for
arts and crafts, and its charming streets are
peppered with galleries and studios, often in
historic buildings. Discover painters, sculptors,
photographers and silkscreen printers, all
producing unique creations.
The town of Vitré sits 40km east of Rennes
on the very edge of Brittany. It is packed with
photo opportunities, including quirky stone
houses, timbered buildings, floral window
boxes, wooden carvings and higgledy-piggledy
rooftops. You could easily believe you’re in a
film set, particularly in the streets of En-Bas,
de la Baudrairie, de la Poterie and Notre-
Dame. In centuries gone by, merchants who
wanted to flaunt their wealth favoured the
colour green for their houses, as it was the
most expensive to create.
The town centre offers a mixture of national
112 | The Good Life France
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Vitré © Thibault Poriel, Tourism Bretagne
Vitré © Vanessa Martin EI, Tourism Bretagne
chains and independent boutiques, with the
addition of a weekly market on Monday
mornings. This is where you’ll find a colourful
array of clothing, jewellery and fresh produce
from market-garden stalls to fishmongers.
The Château de Vitré is unmissable in all
senses, and its fabulous ramparts are perfect
for panoramic views of the landscape below.
This castle is a combination of turrets, towers,
courtyards and defensive walls, offering a real
trip back in time.
Culture: Within the Château grounds, explore
the museum to learn about the Barons of
Vitré, discover sacred gold artefacts, a natural
science collection and a cabinet of curiosities.
Tastebuds: A local speciality is named after
the French aristocrat and writer, Madame de
Sévigné, who lived near the town. La roulade
Sévigné consists of boneless guinea fowl
stuffed with mushrooms, walnuts and apples:
look for it on the local menus!
Sarzeau (Morbihan)
For a perfect spring escape, head south of
Vannes to the Morbihan Gulf, a natural harbour
dotted with tiny islands. Cradling this gulf is
Rhuys Peninsula, around 10km long and 2km
wide, whose landscapes change from sandy
beaches to rocky coasts and salt marshes.
The town of Sarzeau sits halfway along this
peninsula, about 30 minutes from Vannes.
Sarzeau beach © Annaliza Davis
The long, sandy beaches are perfect for family
breaks, while walkers and cyclists will love the
various trails that criss-cross the peninsula,
offering photo-worthy views at every turn. If
the water calls to you, take a short boat trip to
the Île aux Moines, where you can relax, cycle
or walk the entire coastal circuit of 18km.
Culture: The Château de Suscinio is a former
residence of the Dukes of Brittany. Surrounded
by salt marshes, this impressive structure fell
into ruins but has been gradually restored
since the 1960s. Walk the parapets, visit the
Grand Lodge, try a crossbow and enjoy a
light-and-sound show on certain dates.
Tome de Rhuys cheese
© Thesupermat, Wikimedia
Brittany Tourism website:
brittanytourism.com
Tastebuds: Don’t
miss the free visits
at Tome de Rhuys
cheese farm, where
you can meet the
dairy cows, taste the
incredible cheese
and see how it’s
made.
114 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 115

France Calendar
SPRING
MARCH
Blooms and
blossoms
Spring officially
starts on 20 March
2026, the days get
warmer, the sky gets
bluer, and flowers
burst into life all
over France….
Photo: Caen,
Normandy in March
A view of France each month to illustrate the stunning seasons.
Spring is a great time to visit France - nature awakens, shutters are thrown
open and it’s time to get out and about and enjoy the flowers, markets, flea
markets, seasonal cuisine and heaps more…
APRIL
Start the month with a smile
The French say ‘En avril ne
te découvre pas d'un fil’
which literally is don’t remove
a thread of your clothing
but means, don’t trust the
weather! April showers galore
usually!
Photo: Stormy April day in
Dinan, Brittany
Join us on Facebook,
Instagram and X and
share your photos with us
(#thegoodlifefrance) – it’s
a great way for everyone
to “see” real France
and be inspired by real
travellers snapping pics as
they go.
MAY
Hello sunshine!
And next month they say ‘En
mai, fais ce qu'il te plaît’ (In
May, do what you like). With
up to four national holidays in
May, and long sunny day, this
is a feel-good month where the
café lifestyle kicks in all over
France!
Photo: Sunny Strasbourg in
May, Alsace, northeast France
116 | The Good Life France
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What’s
NEW
Spring 2026
Paris in the Spring
National Holidays
in Spring
3 April Good Friday National Holiday –
Alsace only
6 April Easter Monday National Holiday
1 May Labour Day/May Day National
Holiday
8 May WWII Victory in Europe Day National
Holiday
14 May Ascension Day National Holiday
25 May Whit Monday
Spring officially begins in France on March
20, and the clocks spring forward one hour on
Sunday 29 March.
National Events
1st April is Poisson d’Avril – April Fool’s
Day. No one really knows for sure about
the origins of April Fish Day, but historians
mainly theorise that, as April 1st was the end
of the fishing season, for fun (!), neighbours
would hang fish from the backs of fishermen
to mock their inability to work. Other
historians say it relates to the change of date
on which New Year was celebrated – from
April to January. It was traditional to give a
gift for new year and often the present would
be a fish, which was acceptable at a time
that often coincided with Lent, when meat
was avoided by Christians. From this came
the tradition where people would give fake
fish on 1st April – perhaps to tease those who
didn’t know about or didn’t want to accept
the change in the calendar. These days it's
traditional for kids to stick paper fish on
people’s backs without them knowing!
23 May - Nuits des Musées: All over
France hundreds of museums, churches
and Government offices open their
doors to public and offer free entry from
nightfall until 1.00 a.m.
21 June - Fête de la Musique: This annual
free music festival takes place throughout
France with performances of all kinds
from classical music, choirs in churches,
hip hop, jazz, orchestra and pop, taking
place in the open air, bars and restaurants.
fetedelamusique.culture.fr
Major Anniversaries
Claude Monet: 100 years of Legacy. One
of France’s most revered artists, Oscar-
Claude Monet (1840-1926), painter and a
founder of Impressionism, will be celebrated
with several events to be held throughout
2026 Normandy and Paris with major
exhibitions in museums, plus the Normandy
Impressionist Festival (20/3-20/9 2026).
Lascaux IV celebrates 10 years. In 1940,
a boy and his dog discovered a cave in
Montignac, Dordogne, in it were the most
incredible prehistoric paintings. In 1963 the
caves were closed to the public to prevent
deterioration and a series of replica caves were
created, including, Lascaux IV, an exact to
scale replica of the original cave.
Georges Sand, 150 th anniversary of the
renowned writer’s death. Born Amantine
Dupin de Francueil, she adopted a ‘nom de
plume’ to author countless works. To mark her
death, a 23-metre-long tapestry is set to be
unveiled in June in her honour at the reopening
of the Cité internationale de la Tapisserie, in
Aubusson, following a period of renovation.
cite-tapisserie.fr/en
The Cité du Vin wine museum in Bordeaux
celebrates its 10th birthday with several events
from exhibitions to a festive weekend, 5-7 June,
with numerous activities. The architectural
masterpiece - designed to resemble wine
swirling in a glass also has tasting rooms, a
restaurant, brasserie, wine bar and shops.
What’s new
Cité du Vin wine museum in Bordeaux
Launch of the Route du Cassis Burgundy-
Franche-Comté
A 55-km journey across the beautiful
118 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 119

Antiques heaven at L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
countryside between Dijon and Nuits-Saint-
Georges, honouring the humble blackcurrant
that makes the famous Crème de cassis, a
liqueur that’s popular with white wine to create
a Kir, and with Champagne – a Kir Royale.
Escale à Sete
© Jafar Boumoussa,
Drone Thau
Learn French
by living it...
DISCOVER IMMERSE GROW
What’s on?
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: 2-6 April 2026
If you love antiques and bric-a-brac, you’ll
love the International Art and Antiques Fair -
hundreds of stalls set up in the sunny streets.
Plus, there are hundreds more permanent
sellers in the town. provenceguide.co.uk
Escale à Sète 31 March: 6 April 2026
The largest gathering of Mediterranean
maritime traditions under the French
patronage of UNESCO, this biennial festival
attracts almost 500,000 visitors to enjoy
7 days of completely free festivities for the
whole family during Easter week: 120 working
boats from yesteryear and today, including
some of the world's largest sailing ships, as
well as 50 international groups singing sea
shanties and giving musical performances;
1000 free workshops; parades; life-size naval
battles, and gastronomic discoveries along
the canals of the "Venice of Occitanie.”
escaleasete.com
International Garden Festival chateau
de Chaumont-sur-Loire: 22 April – 30
June 2026
All over France gorgeous gardens are
bursting into bloom but if you’re seriously
into glorious, green-fingered beauty, head
to the Chateau de Chaumont in the Loire
Valley. Stunning permanent gardens,
International Garden Festival Chateau de Chaumont-sur-Loire
contemporary art exhibitions, a beautiful,
historic chateau fabulous show gardens for
the festival.
domaine-chaumont.fr/en
Lyon Street Food Festival: 11-14 June 2026
Four days of gastronomic heaven at one
of France’s biggest food festivals. The
2026 edition will feature 130 French and
international chefs cooking up an array of
culinary creations, with hands-on cooking
workshops and live music performances
en.visiterlyon.com
Find loads more events on our monthly events
calendar: thegoodlifefrance.com
Coming up
Summer starts 21 June 2026 – don’t miss
the Summer issue of The Good Life France
Magazine – subscribe here for free:
SUBSCRIBE
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& C U I S I N E
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fun way to
learn French.
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speaking French?
experiencefrance.net
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120 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 121

centres around Périgueux; Périgord Noir
(Black) - ‘truffle country’ - lies southeast
around Sarlat; while around Bergerac is
Périgord Pourpre (Purple), an area famous
for its wines and named after the grapes.
Dordogne is also the headquarters for
Leggett Immobilier, the award-winning
estate agency set up by Brit Trevor Leggett
in 1988 and which now employs some 650
agents across France, several of whom are
focused on the Dordogne area.
Sarlat on market day © Jeremy Flint
Dordogne – lush countryside, a land of picturesque villages and ‘1001’ castles
DORDOGNE
Living La belle vie
Located in southwest France between
the Loire Valley and the Pyrenees,
Dordogne is famous for its dramatic
river gorges and lush greenery, as
well as for its great weather and
delectable food.
The area known as Dordogne is one of the
most popular regions for expats from around
the world, lured by the laidback way of life
and the many charms of its four distinct
geographical areas: the lush valleys and
forests of Périgord Vert (Green) lie to the
north; the limestone of Périgord Blanc (White)
“When I first visited Dordogne, I was totally
seduced by the quality of life,” recalls
Dordogne Leggett agent Bruno. “People take
time to appreciate good food, good wine
122 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 123

Rocamadour © Jeremy Flint
and good company. Back then, I had a highpressure
sales career in Paris, and my wife
brought me here for a holiday. Dordogne was a
complete contrast to city life, offering gorgeous
landscapes, endless blue skies and a totally
different way of living. I didn’t need much
persuading to leave the stress behind – we
moved here in 1995 and haven’t looked back!”
“In the big cities, history is visible through
the architecture but in Dordogne, heritage
extends through every aspect of life through
the outstanding natural landscape, with
more than 12,000 hectares of vineyards and
fertile farmland, a long rich history, culture
and gastronomy.”
There’s plenty to do in Dordogne from
visiting ancient castles to historic, fortified
towns known as bastides, built in a circular
structure to protect from attack. One of
the best known is Monpazier, which was
founded in 1284 and has over thirty listed
historic monuments. There are prehistoric
caves, street markets galore, dazzlingly
pretty villages, and extraordinary sites like
Rocamadour. The climate – warm summers
and mild winters – means you get to spend a
lot more of the year outside.
And you’ll certainly enjoy the good life when
it comes to food. The culinary heritage of
Dordogne is famous, think goose, duck, wild
truffles and goat’s cheese, accompanied by
fabulous local wines.
“It seems that everywhere you turn here, there
are vineyards, fields of fresh produce and
gourmet shops or traditional bakeries,” agrees
Bruno. “People are very aware of what they
Good food is a way of life in Dordogne
eat, and they want to consume produce that’s
grown close to home. This authenticity is a
way of life, gathering around a table, spending
time over your meal and enjoying every
mouthful. Life doesn’t feel hurried, every day is
to be enjoyed.”
“Dordogne is a very affordable part of
France,” explains Bruno. “You can find
renovation projects for as little as €50,000.
For €150,000 you can buy a property that
might need a bit of work.”
2-house, 10-bed property in Monplaisant
“When it comes to buying property you can
find everything from contemporary homes
to farmhouses, town houses, cottages, and
vast manor houses like this 2-house/10-
bedroomed/2-pool beauty in Monplaisant,
which would be a perfect gite business. You
could even have your own vineyard!”
Perigourdines are a property type particular
124 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 125

to this region. Built from exposed stone,
they generally face south or south-east, and
usually feature a steeply angled roof with
gables. A Périgourdine starts at €350,000
although they tend to sell quickly.” Many of
the older properties are built from the local
stone which seems to glow in the golden
sunlight, bringing a touch of magic to an
already stunning landscape.
9-bed house in Villefranche-du-Perigord
If you’re looking for a village home that’s
ready to move into, €250,000 will buy a
pretty house in walking distance from the
bakery and schools. For a larger family home,
€350,000 is a good budget for a property
that is well-presented and move-in ready with
a large garden and either a swimming pool
or space for one. If your budget stretches
higher, there are some fabulous properties
available like this 9-bedroom property
with a pool in Villefranche-du-Perigord at
€556,000.
Dordogne is popular with English speakers
drawn to the laid-back way of life, great
weather, cuisine, wine, heritage and culture.
“The village of Eymet, for example, is just
20 minutes from Bergerac, and several
British families set up restaurants and
businesses here, which in turn drew other
English-speakers.
“There are many lovely villages in the area,
like medieval Issigeac, about 20 minutes
southeast of Bergerac which has a superb
Sunday morning market, and everything
you need including schools, doctors and
shops in easy reach. Another lovely village
is Lalinde, a good location for bringing
up a family or for early retirement. Again,
you have a supermarket, bank, all the
services, restaurants and bars and plenty
of activities so you can get involved in
local life, all 25 minutes east of Bergerac.
It also has great rail connections to
Bordeaux and Sarlat-la-Canéda, one of
the most beautiful towns of Dordogne.
“Bergerac (population 30,000), the
second largest town in the department
of Dordogne after Perigueux is lively
and offers a good balance with a range of
property types from half-timbered houses
to modern apartments. This town of “Art
and History” (a heritage culture label),
through which the Dordogne River runs,
has everything, great facilities, culture –
museums, restaurants galore, and yet retains
its villagey feel.”
“We get young couples moving here to
escape the anonymity of big cities and
get a better quality of life. It’s a great
place to bring up a family, and it’s also
ideal if you work from home, because the
living cost is relatively low, but you get the
wonderful location. Transport links are good
too, with Bergerac, Brive and Limoges
airports locally. Bordeaux and Toulouse
are slightly further afield but still only
a couple of hours drive plus excellent
motorways.
I can’t think of anywhere better to live than
Dordogne.”
Bergerac
EXCLUSIVE
Barn Conversion
Villac €163,000
Ref: A32642 - 3-bedroom hilltop house with
over 6 acres of meadow and woodland.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: F Climate class: E
Near Saint-Émilion
Villefranche-de-Lonchat €477,000
Ref: A42744 - 5-bedroom 4-bathroom house
with swimming pool. Renovated beautifully!
6% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Energy class: B Climate class: A
Village Life
Bertric-Burée €249,500
Ref: A30776 - 3-bedroom village house with
a private garden and above ground pool.
7% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Energy class: E Climate class: E
Our latest properties for sale in the Dordogne
Recent Renovation
Montignac €448,000
Ref: A40319- 5-bedroom loft-style townhouse
with pool and high-end features.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: A Climate class: A
Business Potential
Monplaisant €945,000
Ref: A40781 - Two properties with outbuildings
and two pools, great letting potential.
5% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Energy class: D Climate class: B
Prime Location
Les Eyzies €287,000
Ref: A40997 - Recently completed 3-bedroom
house in the heart of the Périgord Noir.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: A Climate class: A
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Rare Find
Saint-Pardoux-la-Rivière €450,000
Ref: A40578 - Beautifully modernised 3-bedroom
home with private garden and parking.
6% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Energy class: B Climate class: A
Woodland Wonder
Bergerac €472,000
Ref: A38383 - Charming 4-bedroom home
with guest cottage, pool and 3.6 hectares.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: D Climate class: C
EXCLUSIVE
A Great Project
Hautefort €194,500
Ref: A39980 - 3-bedroom house with commercial
space, ideal for a business or conversion.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: D Climate class: B
www.leggettfrance.com info@leggett.fr +33 (0)5 53 60 84 88
Information on the risks to which these properties are exposed is available on the Geohazards website: www.georisques.gouv.fr
126 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 127

means the division of a property into portions
or shares. Instead of owning the property
yourself, you own a percentage or share of the
property. The property's title or deed is legally
divided into shares for each of the owners.
Le Marais neighborhood in the heart of Paris
Maison Rivoli
A Home in Paris,
Without the
Headaches:
Fractional Ownership
If you’ve ever dreamed of owning a vacation
home in Paris, you’ll likely know that the price
of a prime property is a major reality check.
Despite not being there full-time, you need
to deal with year-round upkeep, navigating
French bureaucracy, coordinating repairs
across time zones — and that can really dull
the dream.
Olga Nikishin-Grushin and David Brown,
attorneys based in Florida and California
who are both long-time lovers of Paris and
fractional owners themselves, have the
perfect solution: fractional ownership. It simply
“It’s a wonderful way to live in Paris, albeit
part-time. Staying in a hotel can be great but
I wanted my own larger central space, to live
life fully like a Parisienne. I wanted to shop at
the markets and cook dinner for friends and
family, have somewhere to really relax with
my own TV, great WiFi and air conditioning,
somewhere that felt ‘chez moi.’ And that’s
exactly what I got when I bought a share in my
apartment.”
Olga and David met through their apartment
owners group, in which David was a developer.
They soon realised they shared a passion
for fractional ownership and for Paris. They
decided it was such an amazing opportunity,
they wanted to perfect and expand it to more
like-minded Francophiles.
They searched long and hard for the
perfect Paris apartment and presented their
first property in 2024. Combined with a
highly responsive management team and
all the administration taken care of for the
homeowners, it was a resounding success.
Happy fractional owners now enjoy their
Paris home, and as one of them puts it: “It
has allowed me to enjoy the best of Paris
without the burdens that often come with
128 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 129

traditional ownership. I truly feel fortunate
to be part of this community."
In 2025, after another long search, Pieda-Paris
discovered their second apartment,
named Maison Rivoli. It ticked all the boxes:
perfect location, ideal layout, lots of light
and high ceilings, impeccable condition,
and elevator access. As Olga says “We don’t
just look for any apartment in Paris, we’re
looking for the one. Luckily as a Paris ‘local’
myself, I heard about an off-market property
and as the first to view it, I knew instantly
that we’d found the perfect Paris apartment.
It has everything you want from a classic
Haussmannian building – wide windows, lots
of light, great features like parquet flooring
and a marbled Louis XIV fireplace. It’s been
professionally decorated, elegant, refined and
airy, and fully furnished with antique mirrors,
superb furnishings and bespoke textiles.”
“It’s in the most fabulous part of Le Marais in
the 4th Arrondissement. The Rue de Rivoli,
one of Paris’ most famous streets which runs
alongside the Louvre, the Tuileries Gardens,
Place Vendôme and the Palais Royale, is
merely downstairs!” The neighborhood is
packed with cafés, bistros, galleries, museums
and shopping galore!
One of the things that makes fractional
ownership so good is the fact that you don’t
need to worry about all the bureaucracy of
owning a second home abroad. When you
become a part owner of the stunning Maison
Rivoli, all the administration, maintenance
and housekeeping is taken care of. From
cleaning to utilities, book-keeping to tax,
insurance to property management - all you
need to do is drop your luggage off at your
Paris home and enjoy life as a local in the city
of light.
As a legal owner of a fraction of Maison
Rivoli, you can sell, transfer or bequeath
your share. Your stay is allocated in twoweek
blocks about 6 months apart and each
year your stay allocation moves forward by
10 weeks so that you can experience the
different seasons of Paris – and of course coowners
can swap weeks.
Fractional ownership is a clever solution to the
age-old longing for a pied-à-terre in the City
of Light. Not a holiday rental. Not a timeshare.
But genuine, shared ownership of a home in
Paris. And not just any home – a beautifully
restored apartment in a classic Haussmannian
building in the heart of the Marais.
You just turn the key and – your Paris home
awaits.
Find out more at www.pied-a-paris.com.
Own a Piece of Paris
13 Shares - One Extraordinary Opportunity
Welcome to Maison Rivoli, a luxury co-ownership apartment in the heart of
Paris. Fully managed and move-in ready, your Paris home is waiting.
Contact us today to secure your place in Paris.
www.pied-a-paris.com | info@pied-a-paris.com
130 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 131

an area that combines medieval villages and
historic towns, cliffs and deep cut gorges,
forest walks and the banks of the mighty
Rhône. The region is known for its gastronomy,
wines and remarkable heritage and culture.
The climate varies – in the south it’s more
Mediterranean, in the north where the
Vercors massif is located (straddling the
Drôme and Isère departments), there’s a
mountain climate.
It's not an overpopulated area (around
520k inhabitants), and properties are
cheaper here than in the more well-known
neighbouring departments of Provence.
With 362 communes spread throughout
the department, there’s plenty of room and
the most populated towns are Valence, the
capital, with around 65,000 inhabitants,
followed by Nyons and Montelimar.
Property styles vary, including Provencal style
houses, traditional stone buildings (called
mas), with lots of character, farmhouses, town
houses and luxury villas. The area is growing in
popularity especially with families and retirees.
Nyons
Spotlight on
the DRÔME
The ‘Provence’
of the Rhône-Alpes
The Drôme department (no. 26)
between the Rhone Valley and the Alps,
is a little pocket of France that’s a bit
of a secret. Sleepier than its Provence
neighbours, it feels off the beaten track
with sun-kissed villages, lavender fields,
vineyards and olive groves, and though
it may not have the sea, there are lakes
and rivers.
Easily accessible from Lyon (just one hour by
road), Marseille, Nimes and Grenoble airports,
and with fast TGV services to Paris (from 2
hours 10 minutes), you quickly leave the hustle
and bustle behind as you dive into the Drôme,
Pickled-in-the-past village and a laid-back lifestyle in the Drôme countryside
This area is a favourite with the French who
love its authenticity, and it’s also a soughtafter
destination for Dutch, Germans,
Belgians and Swiss who are lured by the
laidback lifestyle, wonderful markets, fabulous
local produce and magnificent culture and
heritage. Visitors from the US and UK are less
frequent, probably because it’s just not as
well-known as neighbouring Provence (though
Nyons to Vaison-la-Romaine, Vaucluse, is just
20 minutes by car).
132 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 133

1000`s of properties
For Sale all across France
Tain L’Hermitage © Jeremy Flint
The Drôme department is an ideal destination
for nature lovers with more than 10,000
kilometres of marked hiking trails and a wide
range of outdoor activities including cycling,
mountain biking, horse riding, climbing,
canoeing, kayaking, sailing, swimming, fishing,
golf, winter sports, and more.
With a rich culture, 6 Plus Beaux Villages and
numerous historic sites, you’ll never run out
of things to do and see! In Hauterives, the
Palais Idéal du Facteur Cheval draws visitors
from far and wide. This extraordinary 19th
century palace is an extravagant mixture of
global styles which include a Hindu temple,
fountains, grottos, an Egyptian tomb,
winding tunnels, turrets, sculpted figures and
mythological beasts. It was built by a postman
(Cheval) inspired by postcards from afar, from
pebbles he collected over 33 years as he
walked his rounds.
Tain l’Hermitage is perched on the banks of
the river Rhône overlooked by steep terraced
vineyards. It’s famous for its exceptional
wines, and chocolate - Valrhona, the prestige
French chocolate producers are based here.
Nearby, the Jardins d' Erik Borja in the town
of Beaumont Monteux provide just the right
quantity of zen.
Romans-sur- Isère
A short drive east of Tain-l’Hermitage, 9th
century Romans-sur-Isère is known as the
‘City of Shoes’ owing to its shoemaking history
and remarkable Shoe Museum, housed in a
former convent. Enjoy a lingering lunch in
one of its pretty squares and indulge in the
local specialities of Ravioli or Pogne (brioche
flavoured with young orange blossoms).
Valence is an elegant city with parks,
esplanades and elaborate architecture with
numerous private mansions and bourgeois
houses, including medieval and Renaissance,
museums, excellent shops, and a fabulous
market. The local speciality, ‘The Swiss’, is a
must, a sweet orange-flower flavoured pastry
inspired by the Swiss Guard who protected
Pope Pious VI who was imprisoned by the
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134 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 135

Valence, and
elegant city with
spectacular views
over the surrounding
countryside
Nyons, surrounded by
vineyards, olive orchards
and lavender fields
Vercors Regional
Natural Park,
peppered with
pretty villages
French Revolutionary forces and died in
Valence in 1799.
Montelimar, south of Valence is famous for
both its nougat and its stunning Medieval
Adhémar Castle. Grignan is one of Les
Plus Beaux Villages de France and is
achingly pretty. It is set on a hill around the
incredible Château of Grignan. Originally
built in the 12th century, the castle was
later transformed in the 17th century into
classic Renaissance style and is now one of
the leading Renaissance castles in southeast
France. In the village, the streets are
filled with roses and there are some great
restaurants – look out for dishes which
include local truffles. And Nyons is a bustling
little town with covered arcades, plane and
palm trees and pavement cafés and bars,
surrounded by olive and fruit orchards and
swathes of lavender fields.
The Vercors Regional Natural Park offers
trails, forested mountains, meadows and
wildlife like ibex and marmots. It stretches
across 206,000 hectares and has a network
of over 4,000 km of marked trails. It’s
a wildlife and nature lovers dream, and
you can explore by foot, bike, horseback,
canoe or kayak. It also has climbing, caving
and skiing. Dotted with historic towns like
Pont-en-Royans with its ‘hanging houses’
and bustling village life, and vibrant Die
– where the celebrated Clairette de Die
sparkling wine is made, and small villages
of half-timbered houses, local café life and
street markets, it’s a great place for those
looking for a peaceful lifestyle and the great
outdoors.The Drôme has so much to discover
and savour, whether you’re after history,
culture, adventure or all three, you’ll find it
delivers in spades. With superb weather, a
laid-back Provencal lifestyle, uncrowded and
unspoiled, it offers something for everyone
from second homeowners to those looking for
an authentic French way of life.
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Licence Exchange / Vehicle
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CNF (French Citizenship)
We manage your visa application
from start to finish - start your
new life in France the right way.
theeuropeanconcierge.com
136 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 137

Rupert and Franck, the Gîte Gurus © Vincent Keith Photography
countryside. Le Mazet became a charming
1-bedroom cottage with a double-height
living space. A decrepit tobacco-drying barn
was transformed into Rupert and Franck’s
contemporary new home.
Le Mas & Le Mazet gîtes
Dreaming of owning a gîte, or already
have one, in France? We speak to
Rupert Springfield, who shares his
recipe for gîte success with other
owners. Meet the Gîte Guru…
“In the good old days, you could buy a place
in France, decorate it, and rent it out to
earn some extra money” says Rupert. “Now
though, it’s more complicated, there are
more regulations, ever-changing taxes, and
a flood of competition. At the age of 40,
Ask the
Gîte Gurus
we swopped our careers for a life of gîtes in
France and it’s been a great success. We’ve
created a system that takes the guess work
out of getting it right.”
British-born Rupert and his Dutch husband
Franck, live in Dordogne running their
gorgeous gîtes, Le Mas & Le Mazet. But it’s
not always easy says Rupert, “we’ve made
mistakes, we’ve learned from the challenges,
and we’ve analysed everything to understand
what works, and what doesn’t.” The couple
who were an antique dealer and theatre
producer, viewed a whopping 69 properties
before they found ‘the one.’
“Yes, it may seem over the top” laughs Rupert
“but we were very specific about what we
wanted the property to offer our guests, which
would give our new lives in France the best
chance possible. We had to make it work.”
They renovated the whole property in just
8 months, creating 5 bedrooms and en
suite bathrooms in Le Mas, with a summer
kitchen for guests to enjoy the stunning
view over the private pool and Dordogne
The pressure of sacrificing their salaries for a
start-up gîte business meant they prepared
for every eventuality – or so they thought.
“We made mistakes and wrong decisions,
but built on them and guests loved what we
created,” explains Rupert. This knowledge and
experience led to Gîte Guru – a consultancy
helping other gîte owners who would otherwise
be thrown in the deep end. They advise on
everything from buying the right property,
revamping a gîte, launching the business, to
where and how to market it.
“I don’t believe in guess work, trusting what
the internet says or hoping for the best.
Creating a profitable gîte is hard work – you’re
a host, bookkeeper, gardener, marketeer,
good at maintaining your property and pool,
great at communicating and cleaning. So
prepare well, believe in yourself and your
product, and ask questions.
“But the upside is that it’s great fun, everyone
can do it, you meet a lot of amazing people,
138 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 139

and it’s mostly low stress – if you get it right of
course! There’s nothing better than knowing
that your guests are having a wonderful time,
and that all that hard work has been worth it.
Even though you’ll be working ‘on your
own’, you’re not alone, there are so many
other gîte owners like you out there. That’s
why, alongside helping our clients with
tailormade advice, we’ve built a community
on Instagram and launched The Gîte Podcast
full of inspirational stories about the reality of
running a gîte, bringing owners together.
“In Dutch there’s a brilliant expression, ‘living
like a God in France’. And there is much to
love here, the diverse landscape, from the
French Alps to the Mediterranean beaches,
Rupert and Franck with happy clients Natasha and Tony
history, culture, vineyards, fantastic weather,
culture, gastronomy, and wine. A gîte is a
great way to follow your dream to live and
work in France.”
Rupert’s
top tips for
gîte owners
You’re not alone: meet and support other
fellow gîte owners, who are experiencing
the same highs and lows as you.
Think about your guests: design your
gîte with guests in mind (for example the
outside dining area), offer them a great
experience and listen to their feedback.
Know how to market: Agency fees can be
high, so if you are proactive and have the
time, market the gîte yourself.
Promote your USPs: with an everincreasing
number of gîtes for guests to
choose from, understand what your USPs
are and communicate them clearly.
Understand your costs: Boring – but
vital, know your costs from laundry to
marketing. Use an accountant to make
sure you don’t pay too much tax whilst
fulfilling your fiscal responsibilities.
Always improve: if you’re TV isn’t smart,
your wine glasses are mismatched, your
towels aren’t fluffy anymore, it’s time to
upgrade.
Keep up to date: new regulations, new tax
thresholds, new responsibilities - follow us on
Instagram for gîte news and updates
Stand up for your business: Decide on your
t&c’s and stick to them. If a platform like
Airbnb offers you a risky cancellation policy,
be creative and find ways to lessen the risk
to your business.
Get classified: there are major tax
advantages for micro-BICs, and marketing
power for places awarded 4* and 5*..
Get a free consultation: If you’d like to
find out how Gîte Guru can help you with
your gîte project, Rupert offers an initial
meeting free of charge. Whether you’re in
the planning stages or looking to boost an
existing business, Gîte Guru’s insights could
save you a lot of heartache and will make a
tangible difference to your bottom line.
Visit www.gîteguru.com for more details
and find Rupert on Instagram @gîte.guru,
where he shares the latest news, tips and
updates for gîte owners.
English Speaking
Real Estate Agents in France
www.metropolitanpropertiesparis.com +1 (970) 708-7773
140 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 141

Your one stop shop for the finest quality
food from Britain and Ireland.
Carrot,
honey &
harissa
galette
By Tracey Valentina-Wood
Easy to make this rustic, tasty galette is totally delicious and
packs plenty of wow factor.
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baconbythebox.com
Ingredients: Serves 4-6
1kg carrots (fresh, sweet medium carrots
work best)
½ -1tbsp harissa paste
1 tbsp runny honey, and extra for drizzling
1-2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt flakes, and freshly ground
black pepper
150g Boursin Garlic and Fine Herbs cheese,
or Goat’s Curd
1 egg, beaten
Fresh thyme
Parmesan
Sheet puff pastry
Flour for dusting
Tracy Valentina Wood is a food stylist based in Sydney
whose work encompasses social media, editorial, print,
video, and television. Her clients include global giants
as well as small local producers – and pretty much
everything in between, including several seasons as chef
de cuisine at the Chateau de Gudanes in southwest
France. You can find more of her delicious recipes at:
tracyvalentinawood.com
Method
Heat the oven to 185C fan/gas mark 6/400 F.
Peel the carrots and slice thickly, about 5mm.
Toss them in a bowl with the harissa, honey,
olive oil, salt and pepper and give everything
a good mix to make sure the carrots are all
evenly coated.
Arrange the carrots evenly on a baking sheet,
making sure they don’t overlap and roast
the carrots for 25-30 minutes turning them
halfway, until tender.
Set aside to cool.
Place the puff pastry on a baking tray and
spread the cheese (or goats curd) over the top
leaving a 3cm border around the edge.
Arrange the carrots on top. Fold over the
edges of the pastry and brush the pastry crust
with the beaten egg.
Grate some Parmesan over the tart and bake
for 35-40 minutes (185C fan/gas mark 6/400
F) until the pastry is golden brown and crisp (if
carrots and pastry seem to be burning, cover
with a piece of foil).
Remove from oven. Grate extra Parmesan
over the top, drizzle some honey, and scatter
with chopped fresh thyme. Serve warm.
142 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 143

Provençal Beef Daube is one of those family recipes that have been passed down
through generations for hundreds of years. Like all good things, a Daube takes time
to prepare, but it’s worth the wait and with this recipe there’s no need to brown the
meat. Recipes often include vegetables but for this dish –a vegetable tian is also
perfect to pair with it (see page 147).
Beef Daube
with Garlic
By Tracy Valentina-Wood
INGREDIENTS
Serves 8
2kg (4.4 pounds) beef shin, or oyster blade,
trimmed
750ml pinot noir (bottle or 25 fl oz)
A large bouquet garni of 12 sprigs thyme,
2 bay leaves, 12 parsley stalks, 4 strips
orange zest with pith removed, tied
together with twine
2 bulbs garlic, peeled
A piece of pork skin with all the fat removed,
large enough to line the base of the casserole
300g (10 oz) pickled pork belly (use pork belly
if not able to source it)
1 pigs trotter, split lengthwise
100ml (3.3 fl oz) brandy
Enough strongly flavoured veal or chicken
stock, just to cover
Sea salt flakes, and freshly ground black
pepper
3tbsp chopped parsley
Sage leaves (1 bunch), fried in butter until crisp
METHOD
Cut the beef shin or oyster blade into
approximately 5cm square pieces. Marinate
in the wine, bouquet garni and garlic in the
fridge overnight.
Lightly grease the bottom of a flame-proof
casserole dish, and cover with pork skin.
Transfer the beef, including the bouquet
garni and the garlic to the casserole, and
season lightly with salt and pepper. Reserve
the marinade.
Cut the pickled pork into 3cm pieces and add
these to the casserole with the pig’s trotter.
Warm the brandy in a small saucepan and
ignite with a match.
Shake until the flames expire and pour over
the meat. Add the reserved marinade and the
stock just to cover.
Preheat oven to 130C (Gas Mark2/260F),
and on top of the stove, bring the casserole
to a simmer and skim the surface of any grey
scum that rises to the surface.
Place two layers of baking parchment on the
surface, covering the meat, and then close
with the lid.
Place in in the oven for 30 minutes, check to
see that the liquid is barely moving.
Check again after 1½ hours using a skewer (if
using oyster blade, it should be ready, beef
shin will need another hour of cooking time),
it should pass through without resistance, but
the meat should still hold its shape.
Discard the pig’s trotter and the bouquet
garni, and set aside to cool overnight,
keeping covered.
When cool, remove fat. When you’re ready
to serve, gently warm the daube over a low
heat. When hot through, remove the meat
from the casserole, set aside in a bowl, and
cover with foil.
Bring the sauce to a boil, and skim as required,
reducing to a coating consistency.
Return the meat to the sauce mix, check the
seasoning, stir in fresh chopped parsley and
serve with a scattering of crisp sage leaves.
Tip: for extra wow factor, decorate with heart
shaped croutons fried in a little butter and
olive oil.
144 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 145

Vegetable Tian
By Tracy Valentina-Wood
The colours of vegetables are like burnished jewels after long and slow cooking.
Once cooked, this dish can sit quite happily for a few hours at room temperature
before serving, only needing a drizzle of olive oil and a scattering of basil leaves
before you do.
INGREDIENTS
Serves 6
4 large Roma (egg shaped) tomatoes
3 large courgettes
1 slim medium aubergine
1½ tbsp coarse salt
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced, plus 1 garlic
clove, halved
A small handful of kalamata olives, torn in half
8 sprigs of fresh thyme
4 fresh bay leaves
1tbsp extra virgin olive oil, and ½ cup extra
Sea salt flakes and freshly ground
black pepper
A handful of basil leaves
METHOD
Preheat oven to 180C (Gas Mark 6/400F).
Slice the tomatoes, courgettes, and
aubergine into thin rounds 3mm thick,
also halving the aubergine lengthways
if it’s much bigger in diameter than the
other vegetables.
Drain the tomatoes and courgettes on
kitchen paper and place the aubergine
slices in a colander, sprinkle with coarse
salt, and leave to drain for 20 minutes,
then pat dry with kitchen paper.
Rub the cut garlic clove over the base of
a gratin dish (measuring approximately
20 x 30cm), and drizzle with a
tablespoon of olive oil.
Starting from the outside of the dish,
arrange the vegetables tightly, working
your way into the centre of the dish. Tuck
an olive half, a slice of garlic and a bay
leaf in every now and then.
Scatter with the thyme sprigs, season well
with salt and pepper, and brush with olive oil.
Bake for 30 minutes. Turn the oven down
to 160C (Gas Mark 3/320 F), brush the
vegetables with olive oil and bake for
another 30 minutes. Turn down oven to
140C (Gas Mark 1/280 F) , brush with more
olive oil, and continue to cook for another
30 minutes. Check to see if tender, and
if so, remove from oven, let cool for 10
minutes, scatter with basil leaves and serve.
146 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 147

CHOUX
CHANTILLY
Makes 12-15
Jennifer Pogmore is a
classically trained pastry chef
and chocolatier (Le Cordon
Bleu) who worked in Parisian
pastry boutiques before
returning to Le Cordon Bleu as
a pastry chef instructor.
Jennifer Pogmore’s recipe for this
iconic French treat requires precise
measurements – but if you want perfection
(and I think we all do when it comes to
cake!) – then metric scales are essential.
INGREDIENTS
Craquelin
75g plain (all-purpose) flour
75g cassonade or granulated sugar
55g unsalted butter, softened
Choux Pastry
60g whole (full fat) milk
60g water
50g unsalted butter, cubed
3g caster or granulated sugar
2g fine salt
70g plain (all-purpose) flour, sifted
120g eggs
Chantilly with Mascarpone
500g whipping cream, cold
150g mascarpone, cold
60g icing (powdered) sugar, sifted
5g (1 tsp) vanilla extract/1 vanilla pod
METHOD
Craquelin
In a bowl, cream together the butter and sugar
until well combined. Stir in the flour until a
dough is formed.
Roll out evenly between two pieces of baking
paper until 3mm (1/8 inch) thick. Place the
sheet of craquelin in the freezer.
Choux Pastry
In a medium-sized saucepan bring the milk,
water, butter, sugar and salt to a rolling
boil, ensuring all the pieces of butter have
fully melted. Remove the pan from the heat
and add all of the flour in one go. Beat the
flour into the wet ingredients immediately
with a spatula.
Return to the heat and stir over the heat for 30
seconds until a ball of dough forms. Remove
from the heat, tip the dough into a large
mixing bowl and leave to cool for 5 minutes.
Break the eggs into a separate bowl and add
gradually to the choux pastry mixture, beating
between each addition. Once smooth and
glossy, transfer to a piping bag fitted with a
10mm/3/8” or 12mm/1/2” round piping tip.
You may need a little extra egg or not all of
the egg to get this consistency. Pipe 4cm or
5cm/1 ²⁄3” or 2” rounds of choux pastry onto
the tray.
Remove the craquelin from the freezer and cut
out matching-sized circles and place them on
top of each piped choux bun.
Bake in a preheated oven at 160°C/320°F
(fan oven) or 180°C/355°F (conventional
oven) for
35-40 minutes. Remove the tray of choux
once they are golden brown all over and allow
to cool.
Chantilly with Mascarpone
Place the cream, mascarpone, sifted icing
sugar and the seeds scraped from a vanilla
pod (or vanilla extract) in the bowl of your
stand mixer or a large mixing bowl. Whisk
until the cream forms stiff peaks. Transfer to a
piping bag with a star tip.
Slice the choux buns in half. Fill generously
the bottom half of the choux bun with the
chantilly cream by piping 3-4 rings upwards
in a circular motion. Replace the tops of the
choux. You can dust the tops with icing sugar
to finish if you like.
The choux chantilly are best eaten the day
they are made but will keep for up to two days
in the fridge.
148 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 149

LA TROPÉZIENNE
This iconic cake made its debut in 1952 at the Saint-Tropez patisserie of pastry
chef Alexandre Mickain. It was propelled to fame when Brigitte Bardot, who was
filming “Et Dieu créa la femme” in the area, fell for the cake and told the chef – you
should call it ‘La Tarte Tropezienne’. The original recipe is a closely guarded secret -
Jennifer Pogmore’s recipe is a classic take on the utterly scrumptious cake.
This is a recipe to take your time with, and precise measurements are essential (hence the
European metric units), but oh so worth it…
INGREDIENTS
Brioche Dough
250g strong white bread flour or a
00-pizza flour
5g fine sea salt
30g caster or granulated sugar
150g (3) eggs
12g fresh yeast
(6g dry active yeast or 4g fast-action/
instant yeast)
125g unsalted butter, room temperature
5g (1 tsp) vanilla extract
Egg for the egg wash
Nibbed sugar for the top
Icing (powdered) sugar to dust)
Crème Légère
190g whole (full fat) milk
40g (2) egg yolks 20g (½) egg
20g unsalted butter, cold
45g caster or granulated sugar
15g cornstarch (cornflour)
5g (1 tsp) vanilla extract/1 vanilla pod
3g gelatin sheets or powdered gelatin (200
bloom/gold strength)
125g whipping cream (minimum 30% fat), cold
METHOD
Brioche Dough
In the bowl of your stand mixer, add the eggs.
Add the flour over the top, then add the sugar
and salt to one side of the bowl and crumble the
fresh yeast or place the fast action yeast on the
other side (if using dry active yeast, first heat two
tablespoons of water until lukewarm and stir in
the yeast. Allow 10 minutes to activate before
adding to the brioche dough).
With the dough hook attachment, mix the
brioche dough on the lowest setting for 2-3
minutes, until the dough begins to come
together.
Increase the speed to the second from lowest
setting and leave for knead for 5 minutes.
Knead on the 3rd lowest setting for 5 minutes
or until the dough no longer sticks to the sides.
Add in the butter in two goes and knead on
the second from lowest setting for a further 5
minutes. Add the vanilla and beat the dough on
a medium speed for a minute.
Ideal temperature for the dough after kneading
is 25°C-28°C/77°F-82°F.
Remove the dough from the stand mixer, shape
into a ball and place in a lightly floured bowl.
Cover with clingfilm or a tea towel and leave
to rise at room temperature for an hour or until
doubled in volume (pointage).
Punch the air out of the dough and wrap the ball
in cling film and leave in the fridge for 12 hours
(or overnight).
Shaping & Baking
Take the brioche and shape into a ball. Use a
minimal amount of flour to dust the table if the
brioche sticks. Grease the ring of a 20cm (8
inch) springform tin or use a cake ring and place
on a baking tray lined with paper. Place the ball
of brioche dough inside the mould and press
down the top to flatten and push the brioche to
the edges.
Brush the top of the brioche with a beaten
egg (egg wash), cover with cling film or a tea
towel and leave to rise for two to two and a half
hours, or until doubled in volume. Brush the top
of the brioche again with egg wash and sprinkle
the top generously with nibbed sugar.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/355°F (fan oven)
or 200°C/390°F (conventional oven). Place
a bowl with half a litre of water in the base of
your oven, the humidity will help avoid cracking.
Place the brioche in the oven and bake for 35-
40 minutes or until golden all over. Remove from
the oven, remove from the tin and leave to cool.
Crème Légère
Soak the gelatin first by sprinkling the gelatin
over a small bowl with 6x its weight in water (for
powder) or by placing the gelatin in a bowl of
ice-cold water (for sheets).
Whisk the yolks and half of the sugar together in
a bowl until they start to lighten in colour. Whisk
in the cornstarch.
Bring the milk, the second half of sugar and the
vanilla to a boil, remove from the heat and pour
half over the yolks and sugar, whisking together.
Pour everything back into your pan, making
sure to scrape the bowl clean. Put on a medium
heat and whisk constantly until it thickens, and
bubbles appear. Once you see bubbles, whisk
on the heat for 30 seconds.
Remove from the heat and stir in the gelatin
and butter. Put in a dish and cover with cling
film touching the surface of the pastry cream
and chill.
Once cooled, place the whipping cream in the
bowl of your stand mixer or a large mixing bowl
and whisk until it forms stiff peaks. Remove the
pastry cream from the fridge and re-whisk to
loosen. Gently fold in the whipped cream and
transfer to a piping bag with a 10mm (3/8 inch)
round or a star piping tip.
Assembly
Using a serrated knife, slice the brioche in two
like you would a burger bun. Dust icing sugar
over the domed top. Pipe rounds of crème
légère onto the bottom slice, then gently place
on the top.
The cake will keep in the fridge for up to 2 days.
150 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 151

GÂTEAU
BASQUE
serves 8
The origins of gateau Basque are lost in
the mist of time, and Jennifer Pogmore’s
version of this classic southern French
cake is a winner – delicious any time of
the day!
INGREDIENTS
Cherry Compote
150g fresh or frozen cherries, pitted and
roughly chopped
15g caster or granulated sugar
15g (1 tbsp) lemon juice
The cherry compote can be replaced with
100g of store-bought cherry compote or jam
Gâteau Batter
250g unsalted butter, softened
200g icing (powdered) sugar, sifted
50g (1) egg
20g (1) egg yolk 260g plain (all-purpose) flour,
sifted
5g baking powder, sifted
5g (1 tsp) vanilla extract/1 vanilla pod
Zest ½ lemon
1 egg for egg wash
Crème Pâtissière
300g whole (full fat) milk
40g (2) egg yolks
60g caster or granulated sugar
20g plain (all-purpose) flour
20g cornstarch (cornflour)
5g (1 tsp) vanilla extract/1 vanilla pod
Syrup
30g caster or granulated sugar
30g water
METHOD
Cherry Compote
Place the cherries and sugar in a saucepan
over a medium heat. Stirring occasionally,
cook until the cherries have softened and
released their juices and there is nearly no
liquid left in the pan. Add the lemon juice
and cook for a further minute. Pour into a
dish or tray, press cling film to the surface of
the compote and chill.
Pastry Cream
Whisk the yolks and half of the sugar
together in a bowl until they start to lighten
in colour. Whisk in the flour and cornstarch.
Bring the milk, the second half of the sugar
and the vanilla to a boil, remove from the
heat and pour half over the yolks and sugar,
whisking together. Pour everything back
into your pan, making sure to scrape the
bowl clean. Put on a medium heat and whisk
constantly until it thickens and bubbles
appear. Once you see bubbles whisk on the
heat for 30 seconds.
Put in a dish and cover with cling film
touching the surface of the pastry cream
and chill.
Gâteau Batter Cream together the butter
and icing sugar. Add the egg and egg yolk
and stir into the mixture. Add vanilla and the
lemon zest and stir in.
In a separate bowl, sift together the flour
and baking powder. Add the dry ingredients
to the mixture and stir together until
combined. Transfer just over half of the
mixture to a piping bag fitted with a 10mm
round piping tip.
Assembly
Line a 20cm/8” springform tin with paper on
the bottom and the sides. Pipe a spiral of the
gâteau batter on the bottom of the pan to
form the bottom layer. Pipe another ring of
the batter along
the outside
edge of the
cake.
Smooth the
base using a
palette knife or
the back of a
spoon, leaving
the outside
ring of batter.
Spread the
cherry compote
evenly over the base
and up to the edge
where the ring was piped.
Re-whisk the pastry cream to loosen.
Spread the cream over the cherry
compote, smoothing out the surface.
Transfer the remaining gâteau batter to
the piping bag and pipe another spiral over
the surface of the filling. Use a palette knife
or the back of a spoon again to smooth the
surface (it helps if you wet your utensil so the
batter doesn’t stick).
Brush a layer of egg wash over the surface of
the gâteau and use a fork to mark lines on the
top of the cake.
Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C/355°F
(fan oven) or 200°C/390°F for 45 minutes.
If the top of the cake begins to colour too
quickly, cover the top part way through
cooking with some aluminium foil.
Syrup
Place the sugar and water into a pot and bring
to a boil. Once the gâteau is baked, remove
from the oven and while still hot, brush the top
with the syrup.
Leave the cake to cool down for a minimum of
2 hours before serving, the gâteau should be
eaten cold.
The gâteau can be kept in the fridge for
2-3 days.
152 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 153

Last
Word
When Ernest Hemingway lived in Paris, he wrote, “When spring came, even the
false spring, there were no problems except where to be happiest.”
Here, in Pas-de-Calais, north of Paris, where I live in the middle of nowhere, in
a hamlet of 152 people and 1000 cows, we too feel the joy the moment spring
arrives. Our winters, unlike the south, where there is blue sky for days on end,
tend towards grey skies, persistent rain and the occasional snowfall. Then, one
day, when you feel like it’s going to be this way forever, spring makes its way
to our little village. The days get longer, and the wild birds warble a song of
celebration from dawn to dusk and build nests in the hedgerows of hazel and
hawthorn. Carpets of pure white snowdrops under the bare branches in the
forests give way to flamboyant bluebells shaded by leafy canopies.
Roses bloom, and meadow flowers blanket the landscape. My cats and dogs
agree to go outside after lolling in front of the fire for most of the winter months.
Thierry, the farmer’s cows, move from their barn to the field, and my chickens
wake early and chat with the chickens of my neighbours.
My neighbours emerge from their cosy wood-fired cottages, and the sun casts
rays through the windows of houses whose shutters have been flung open
after being closed against the winter cold. Gardens are tidied, asparagus goes
on shopping lists, barbecue invites are issued, and carnivals are marked in
calendars. Flea markets, called brocantes, marché aux puces, vide greniers
(literally “empty your attic”), rederies and braderies begin in earnest. They are
part of the way of life in France. In my department alone, there are more than
3000 flea markets a year. Most take place from March to early autumn and
are a national obsession for the French. Some are small affairs, just a couple
of meagre stalls with locals selling their unwanted kitchen utensils, clothes, and
kids' toys outside their homes. Others are huge, like the Amiens Rederie in April
with around 2,000 stalls. Not just for bargain hunting, but a chance to catch
up with friends and enjoy the food stalls tempting you to taste their hog roasts,
spicy sausages and vast vats of frites and mussels, the dish of the north.
Spring in rural France is a time of renewal – not just of the land but of friendship
and community.
Janine Marsh is the author of My Good Life in France; My Four Seasons
in France; Toujours La France, and How to be French: Eat, dress, travel
and love la vie Française – available on Amazon, all online bookshops and
in bookstores in high streets everywhere.
154 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 155

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