Spring 2026

BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL

Unpacked

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TWO ISLANDS. ONE UNFORGETTABLE ESCAPE.

This April and October, escape

to the neighbouring yet distinct

islands of Tresco and Bryher in

the Isles of Scilly with our islandhopping

Two Island Break.

Wander through Tresco’s subtropical

Abbey Garden and unwind in the Island

Spa. Then hop across to peaceful Bryher

for laidback luxury at Hell Bay, Scilly’s

highest-rated hotel and restaurant.

TRESCO.CO.UK/TWO-ISLANDS




Unpacked is a playful extension to signify

how we carefully unpack the season’s best

stories, stays, and experiences into this

beautiful, printed edition of the Journal.

For more content and travel inspiration on

where you should next 'unpack' visit our

website britishtraveljournal.co.uk

Cover Image: Golden dunes, wild walks,

and the iconic Godrevy Lighthouse: pure

Cornish escapism from Gwithian Towans.

Photography by Karolina Wiercigroch

Read more in our article, page 84.

Contributions: Amy Bonifas, Sophie Farrah,

Emma Henderson, Jane Knight, Daisy

May, Jessica Way, Natalie Millar-Partridge,

Karolina Wiercigroch

Contact us: hello@britishtraveljournal.com

+44 1489 660 680

WELCOME

This season, our travel stories are not just about visiting a

single destination, they are about emotional reconnection

and meaningful, shared experiences. Spring is the perfect

season for reigniting this sense of wonder and discovery

with more restorative, delving-deeper style escapes.

Feeling in need of a space to focus on your health, healing, and

holistic well-being? In the spirit of spring renewal, we are Redefining

wellness & finding balance, p54, at Combe Grove – Bath’s finest

residence for checking in, both literally and with yourself.

Beyond the retreat, natural moments of grounding can be found,

Outdoor bathing at its best, p68 – outdoor tubs perfectly positioned

for soaking under the stars, and during a culinary stay at Michelinstarred,

plot-to-plate, Osip in Somerset, Where the land leads, p78.

A creative break from Tate to tide, p84, touches on the travel trend

of the ‘hotel hop', with multiple hotel stays on the Cornish coastline,

combining the luxury of Carbis Bay with the artistic vibrancy of St

Ives. There’s further ‘hopping’ to be made in the Cotswolds, staying at

the all-inclusive Foxhill Manor, The Full Fox, p34, and the brand new

boutique hotel, House of George, From catwalk to Cotswolds, p62.

If reconnection with nature is your goal, explore our guide to ‘Wild

places to see rewilding in action, p26, or seek out tranquillity in A little

Scottish nook, p92. Plus, don’t miss your chance to Win the ultimate

Royal Ascot fine dining experience, p24. Until your next adventure.

Published by: Contista Media Ltd

contistamedia.co.uk


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BritishTravelJournal.com 3

Take control of your health at

Goodwood’s wellness retreats

Are you struggling with the menopause?

Dealing with workplace stress? Curious about

how to develop and maintain a healthy gut?

Our industry-leading experts have the answers

to help you lead a healthier and happier life.

goodwood.com

CONTENTS

SPRING 2026 | ISSUE 23

09

Travel News

Uncover the UK's hottest new hotels,

manor-house cottages, and luxury cabins, alongside

unmissable experiences – from Hebridean wildlife

cruises and ancient castle trails to revitalising wellness

retreats with Nordic spas.

24

Win the ultimate Royal Ascot

fine dining experience

Your chance to win an unforgettable, all-inclusive

luxury Village Enclosure package for two at the social

event of the summer, featuring fine dining, free-flowing

drinks, and world-class racing.

26

Wild places to see rewilding in

action

From the wild-roaming bison of Kent to the

beaver projects of West London, explore the bold,

inspiring initiatives breathing life back into Britain’s

landscapes and creating new wildlife havens.

34

The Full Fox

Tucked away in the Cotswolds, Foxhill Manor

is reimagining the luxury all-inclusive escape. British

Travel Journal checks in for an indulgent five-star stay

where unlimited Champagne flows freely, and the chef

will cook absolutely anything your heart desires.

43

Savour the slow stylish Fowey

Get lost in Fowey's charming streets and

discover its flourishing creative scene, from innovative

street food to world-class seafood at The King of

Prussia, the boutique pub at the heart of this stylish

Cornish port.

50

Edinburgh’s secret manor

Discover opulent, maximalist interiors, a

rhubarb-pioneering restaurant, and a history-rich

setting in the shadow of Edinburgh’s iconic Arthur’s

Seat at this luxurious Baroque-style manor, once a

medieval monastery.

24

43


68

54

Redefining wellness & finding

balance

Discover the holistic power of nutrition, movement,

and mindset to reset your balance in the tranquil

Bath countryside at Combe Grove, the UK's only

medically measurable Metabolic Health Retreat.

62

From catwalk to Cotswolds

George Davies, the visionary behind Next,

has brought his fashion-world eye for style and

detail to the artsy Cotswolds village of Broadway,

opening a striking boutique hotel with immaculate

design and a superb Nordic-influenced restaurant.

68

Outdoor bathing at its best

From treetop decks to sea-facing

balconies with unforgettable views, British Travel

Journal explores some of the UK’s top outdoor tubs

perfectly positioned for soaking under the stars.

77

Subscribe to the Journal and

receive a free gift…

Never miss an issue! Treat yourself (or a loved one) to

a touch of luxury with a complimentary mini-starter

gift set from Bramley, alongside three editions of the

Journal delivered straight to your door.

78

Where the land leads

Deep in the Somerset countryside, Osip

combines hyperlocal, seasonal ingredients,

meticulous cooking, and serene interiors to create a

Michelin-starred dining experience shaped entirely

by the land.

84

A creative break from Tate to

tide

Nestled where the rolling hills meet the turquoise

sea, discover the unparalleled luxury, wild beauty,

and vibrant culture of the St Ives and Carbis Bay

coastline, from chic galleries and museums to quaint

shops and inviting cafes.

92

A little Scottish nook

Uncover a hidden, tranquil retreat in Fife’s

East Neuk, a charming Scottish coast pocket, and

escape the everyday, immersing yourself in the wild

beauty of the Highlands. This picturesque coastal

area offers the charm of a Cornish fishing village

without the crowds.

98

The final word...

The last word in travel – our new season's

must-haves, and our best of British travel crossword.

6 BritishTravelJournal.com

Pure Beauty

Pure Escapism

Spring

TRAVEL NEWS

With the days getting longer, it’s time to book one of these great new places to

stay, including a historic hotel, a hamlet of cottages and stargazing cabins for two.

Text by Jane Knight

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHT

HOTELS

SELF-CATERING

EVENTS & EXPERIENCES

WELLNESS

from page 10 from page 14

from page 18 from page 22

Pictured anticlockwise from top: The Grace, County Mayo; Francis Hotel, Bath; Cottage Orné, Cornwall; Louma, Dorset; Pennyhill Park, Surrey


HOTELS

THE LAKE DISTRICT

The King’s Arms

If you’re looking for a pub with pizazz while

visiting the Lakes, this newly refurbished inn set

in pretty Hawkshead ticks all the right boxes.

Expect oak beams, antique furniture and

heritage tones alongside contemporary comfort

in the eight bedrooms, which are all named

after a different king. The bar comes with slate

floor, roaring fire and decent pub grub.

Doubles from £125, with breakfast;

kingsarmshawkshead.com

LUDLOW

Castle Lodge

There’s more than a touch of the Tudors to this

boutique aparthotel, set in a listed building that was

believed to have been a residence of Henry VIII’s first

wife, Catherine of Aragon. With its regal four-poster,

the most impressive of the seven suites is named after

the King. All have kitchenettes and dining areas

following a six-year multi-million-pound investment.


castlelodgeludlow.co.uk

REPUBLIC OF IRELAND

The Grace

An ideal base from which to explore Ireland’s

Wild Atlantic Way, The Grace is just a fiveminute

walk from the Georgian town of

Westport, Co Mayo. A rich green and warm rust

palette in its 129 rooms reflects the surrounding

landscape. The 430-acre estate is the perfect

place for hiking and forest bathing; whiskey

tasting and spa treatments are also on offer.


thegrace.ie


SCOTLAND

HOTELS

Arthouse Glasgow

Interiors in this 19th-century townhouse reflect the eclectic style of an artist’s home,

with contemporary furniture rubbing shoulders with vintage pieces. A great base for

exploring Glasgow’s creative scene, it’s the debut hotel from Oberland, which aims

to transform heritage buildings into comfy stays for modern travellers.

Doubles from £149, with breakfast; arthousehotelglasgow.com

MENDIPS

Mad Swans

Take one 12-hole golf course, add

16 eco cabins with the Mendips as a

backdrop, plus two restaurants, and

you have the essence of the latest

venture from Joel Cadbury and Ollie

Vigors, the duo behind Beaverbrook

Hotel. It’s designed as a countryside

playground for energetic types,

with other activities such as padel,

pickleball and darts on offer. Better

still, there’s neither a membership fee

at the golf course nor a dress code in

the clubhouse.

Doubles from £195, room only;

madswans.com

NORTHUMBERLAND

ONE TO

watch

Eshott Hall

It’s not due to open until the summer, but this

17th-century manor house between Morpeth

and Alnwick, with ten cabins scattered around

its grounds, is now open for bookings.

A second hotel for Wildhive, which operates

Callow Hall in the Peak District, it has a

kitchen garden whose produce supplies

the restaurant, and it is also home to two

pickleball courts.

Doubles from £206, room only; wildhive.uk


HOTELS

BATH

Francis Hotel

Fresh from a £14 million glow up, this hotel in a citycentre

Georgian townhouse on Queen Square is

looking pretty swish. Late last year, the new look for the

98 elegant, contemporary bedrooms and reimagined

public spaces was revealed. This month, the spa opens,

offering a sanctuary with thermal rituals as well as

treatments ranging from Reiki to reflexology.


francishotel.com

LONDON

The Newman

With a penthouse suite commanding

views of The Post Office Tower from

its terrace, this 81-room hotel has just

opened in Fitzrovia, north of Oxford

Street. Some other rooms have balconies;

all are stylishly done out in chocolate

browns and caramels. Local history

threads through the art in this debut hotel

from Kinsfolk & Co, which includes a

brasserie, underground cocktail bar and

Nordic-inspired spa.


thenewman.com

SURREY

Kingsley House

Expect a G&T on arrival, fresh flowers in the three bedrooms, macarons at turndown

and morning coffee brought to your door at this adults-only B&B. Handy for

Goodwood, it’s fully licensed, with its own cinema room and resident Great Dane.

Breakfast features local farm produce; simple evening meals can be ordered.

Doubles from £265, with breakfast; kingsleyhouseescapes.co.uk


North Cornwall’s most welcoming place to eat, play and stay

Self-Catering Holidays | Restaurant | Bar | Golf Course

Indoor Pool | Gym | Padel | Tennis | Driving Range

thepointatpolzeath.co.uk | thepointholidays.co.uk

SELF-CATERING

CORNWALL

Hamlet of cottages

Once part of a working farm, Cottage Orné is a

delightful collection of 14 design-led retreats near

Looe, ranging from a shepherd’s hut to cottages in

17th-century farm buildings and a seven-bedroom

manor. Expect original details, rich furnishings,

and outdoor wood-fired baths. They all share a

sauna, treatment hut, pool, and creative studio.

A night for two from £150 in the shepherd’s

hut or from £900 for 14 in the manor house;

cottageorne.com

SUFFOLK

Log off, look up

Ayres End Studio is the perfect escape hatch for

remote workers who believe in the ‘Work Hard,

Relax Harder’ mantra. This charming, thatched

studio in Kersey offers a sunlit, Wi-Fi-enabled space

for focused mornings. When you log off, a private

garden and a picture-perfect village await for a

well-earned evening wind-down under the stars.

Sleeps two, short breaks for two from £508;

ruralretreats.co.uk

WEST SUSSEX

Goodwood Cottages

There’s no better place to stay when visiting

the Goodwood Estate, renowned for its

motorsports and horse-racing events, than

in one of their farm cottages. Two more have

just been added to the existing four-strong

collection. In beautiful country-chic style,

Cowman’s Cottage and Dairymaid’s Cottage

both sleep six in three bedrooms, all with their

own bathroom.

A night for six from £500; goodwood.com


SELF-CATERING

CORNWALL

Coastal cabins

Just a short stroll from Polzeath Beach, this group of Cornish cabins with views of

coast and countryside have gained two new additions, both in a stripped-back

Scandi-chic style, and with three bedrooms apiece. Or should you wish to return

here every year, there are three plots remaining to create your own bespoke cabin.

Seven nights for six from £535; thepointholidays.co.uk

ANGLESEY

Great for groups

If the views of the Menai Straits and

Snowdonia aren’t enough to impress

at this house dating back to 1540,

the indulgent interiors surely will.

Ty Culfor, which sleeps 20 in nine

rooms, is steeped in heritage, from

the ornately carved oversize fireplace

and bar in the sitting room to the

opulent four-posters. There are

modern comforts too, with a games

room, a contemporary dining area

and a mini spa with gym, along with

twin hot tubs outside.

A night for 20 from £1,078;

luxurycottages.com

RUTLAND

Pool for all seasons

Fed up of properties with pools that are

neither open nor heated in the off-season?

The Shearling is a slick barn conversion where

you can swim in the heated pool overlooking

Eyebrook Reservoir at any time of the year. The

uber-modern kitchen and sitting room opens

onto the pool area; there are three bedrooms,

one with a copper bathtub in the ensuite.

Short breaks for six from £2,250;

uniquehomestays.com


SELF-CATERING

HAMPSHIRE

Best of both worlds

Enjoy the independence of self-catering and

the comforts of a hotel at The Montagu

Arms’ four-bedroom Courtyard Residence in

Beaulieu. The cottage gives you the space to

sprawl, but there’s no need to bother about

breakfast – you can either have it in the hotel

or get a hamper delivered to your door.

Two nights for eight adults and up to eight

children from £2,480; montaguarmshotel.co.uk

ISLE OF WIGHT

Aparthotel near the beach

Book one of a trio of coastal-chic apartments

in Shanklin’s Palm Court Hotel

and you also have access to shared

facilities including a pool, cinema with

games room, plus sauna and gym.

There are no staff on site, but a chef can

be arranged; there’s a cafe at the end of

the road, just above the beach. Best of

the bunch is the Shanklin suite, which

sleeps up to ten adults and has a huge

open-plan family room.

Three nights for ten adults from

£2,571; palmcourthotelshanklin.co.uk

WEST SUSSEX

Film-set house

Think it looks familiar? That’s because Hazelbrook House was used as a film set for

Married at First Sight and the 2024 movie All of You. Now you can book it with family

and friends, along with its indoor pool, hot tub and sauna, plus a lake for paddle

boarding, tennis court and cricket pitch. The six bedrooms have a country-house feel.

A night for 18 from £1,221; luxuryboltholes.com


CELEBRATING

1 9 8 6-20

2 6

A portfolio of over 800 luxury self-catering holiday properties across the UK

Fron Cottage, Oswestry, Powys

Find your special place

From contemporary coastal barn conversions to charming thatched cottages, we’ve

hand-picked the very best properties to bring you holiday memories to treasure.

SCAN HERE TO BOOK

Belchamp Hall Hayloft,

Belchamp Walter

Miller’s Loft, Erpingham

Olive Tree House, Ripe

Y O U R

N E X T B R E A K

01386 897 959 | ruralretreats.co.uk |

Looking to let your holiday property? Email us at newowners@ruralretreats.co.uk today for a chat!


DORSET

Walking with sheep

While the kids walk the Valais sheep round

the grounds of Louma Country Hotel or sign

up for a forest school session, you can escape

to the wellness barn for reiki or try your hand

at mixology or champagne tasting. The new

activities are on offer at this Jurassic Coast

working farm estate, with accommodation in

huts, barns and stables.

A night for four from £1,348, full board;

loumacountryhotel.co.uk

SCOTLAND

Inverness Castle

experience

Explore the heritage of the Highlands,

design your own tartan and see the

restored Rose Window at the reimagined

Inverness Castle by the River Ness.

Dating back to medieval times, the

castle has 19th-century towers that

were formerly used as a prison and

courthouse. Stay at Ness Walk, just

along the riverside, which has a twonight

spring stay with dinner on one

night and tickets to the castle.

Castle tickets £20; invernesscastle.

scot, or as part of a two-night package

from £227.50; nesswalk.com

CHANNEL ISLANDS

Small islands big flavour

Enjoy a cheese tour of St Peter Port, take a cycling safari around Guernsey’s hedge veg

stalls, meet local chefs and producers, and tuck into farm-to-fork dinners as part of

The Big Eat – Guernsey’s new biannual food festival in April and the autumn. Each monthlong

festival will comprise more than 40 food-led events showcasing the local food scene.

More information: thebigeatguernsey.com



NORTHUMBERLAND

Castle hopping on foot

Lace up those walking boots and see some of

Northumberland’s most famous castles on a new

self-guided tour from Carter Company. The sevennight

East coast castles to Edinburgh trip starts in

Newcastle and takes in Alnwick, Dunstanburgh,

Warkworth and Bamburgh castles as well as Holy

Isle. Gentle walks cover a maximum of 11 miles a

day, and luggage is transferred.

Seven nights’ B&B from £1,975pp;

the-carter-company.com

CORNWALL

Flower arranging and potting

Learn the secrets to potting plants and the art of

styling foraged greenery with vintage pieces, as well

as creating jam-jar posies from garden flowers and

herbs during a creative break at Ennys Cornwall. The

highlight of the weekend break, which takes place

from May 15-17, is dinner in the candlelit Orangerie,

when guests tuck into a celebratory supper

surrounded by the work they have created.

From £710pp staying in an estate cottage, with

food from Friday night to Sunday brunch; ennys.co.uk

PERTHSHIRE

House of Bruar

aquatic exhibition

House of Bruar is more than a country clothing

label: its vast destination store sits deep in the

Cairngorms National Park, near Pitlochry,

with a food hall and art gallery. From March

28 to April 5, the gallery will showcase work

by aquatic artist and metalworker Sam

MacDonald, whose striking wall sculptures

capture life above and beneath the waves.

More information: houseofbruar.com



SCOTLAND

Hebridean Wildlife Watch

New for this year, explore the wild beauty of the

Hebrides aboard the comfortable expedition

yacht, Zuza. This seven-day sailing adventure

focuses on the stunning islands of Mull,

Skye, and the Small Isles, offering incredible

opportunities for wildlife watching and island

walking. It’s the perfect trip for spotting puffins,

eagles, and other coastal creatures.

Seven days from £1,675pp, full board;

venturesailholidays.com

YORKSHIRE

Stargazing cabins

Cuddle up by the fire pit and study the clear

skies above Yorkshire’s Denton Reserve, which is

opening a clutch of cabins for two people. They

each have a wood-burning stove, a kitchenette

and astronomy books. The 2,500-acre estate near

Ilkley is home to wild moorland studded with lakes,

plus a pub with rooms, six coach houses and a

Georgian Hall for hire.

A night for two from £220; dentonreserve.co.uk

HAMPSHIRE

Nature’s Pantry

Foraging provides a focused and informative

way to better appreciate nature, stimulating

the senses and reducing stress. Join Lime

Wood’s resident forager, Sammie Longhorn,

for a gentle walk to learn to safely identify,

harvest, and prepare the New Forest’s edible

and healing native plants. Sessions, which

can be group or one-to-one, include freshly

prepared foraged refreshments.

Prices from £65pp; limewoodhotel.co.uk


LOOKING FOR

NEW HORIZONS?

Explore the coast of the UK and its wild isles with

a fully crewed sailing holiday, from Cornwall

and the Isles of Scilly to the Scottish Hebrides and

St Kilda. Experience wildlife encounters, learn new

skills and explore amazing locations from a different

perspective. Book a berth, a cabin or a private

charter and discover the world under sail.

venturesailholidays.com

NO

EXP

NE

LUXURY RETREATS IN THE UK’S DREAMIEST LOCATIONS

From cosying up fireside in a country cottage, to stargazing from a

dreamy hot tub at your clifftop hideaway, escape the everyday and

seek the magic of a staycation with Boutique Retreats. With over

240 luxury abodes to choose from, uncover our curated collection

of luxury retreats, set in unique locations across the UK.

boutique-retreats.co.uk

+44 (0)1872 553 491

enquiries@boutique-retreats.co.uk

SURREY

Contrast therapy retreats

Discover how to master your breath to reduce

tension and enhance clarity as you warm up

in the sauna before plunging into the coldwater

pool at Pennyhill Park’s extensive spa.

The day retreat, on April 18 and October 24, is

guided by charismatic breathwork expert David

Jackson and includes a 55-minute hot and cold

wellbeing treatment, spa access and lunch.

Day retreat £325pp or from £845 for two

people staying overnight, with breakfast;

exclusive.co.uk


WELLNESS

LONDON

Yoga at Battersea Power Station

Practise your sun salutations while gazing at one of

the capital’s most iconic views, then reward yourself

with brunch in Iberian restaurant Joia. The experience

features as part of art’otel London Battersea Power

Station’s new Wellness Collective, with a range of

fitness experiences including aqua aerobics in the

rooftop infinity pool, and sound baths.

Yoga and brunch on the last Saturday of every

month, £75pp; artotellondonbattersea.com

THE LAKE DISTRICT

Animal magic at the spa

Meet alpacas, dwarf zebu and sheep before

chilling out in the spa as part of the Herdy

Half Spa Day package at Armathwaite Hall in

Keswick. It combines the benefits of half an hour’s

animal interaction with two hours in the spa as

well as a two-course lunch. If you like the idea of a

spa break with a difference, check out the hotel’s

crochet and spa package.

Hald-day package £115pp;

armathwaite-hall.com

COTTAGE ORNÉ PLOUGHMANS COTTAGE © REBECCA HOPE PHOTOGRAPHY. LOUMA @ JONATHAN BOND PHOTOGRAPHY. PENNYHILL PARK @ ANGELA WARD BROWN. CASTLE LODGE @ ANDY HUGHES PHOTOGRAPHY. THE NEWMAN @ HELEN CATHCART. DAIRY COTTAGES GOODWOOD @

MIKE CALDWELL. PALMCOURT HOTEL SHANKLIN @ MILES JACKSON. THE BIG EAT @ JOHN O'NEILL. NORTHUMBERLAND @ ADOBE STOCK. VENTURESAIL © PAUL BOOMSMA. LIMEWOOD © CLAIRE MENARY. CRAFTED © EUAN BAKER PHOTOGRAPHY. BROUGHTON SANCTUARY © KAT WEATHERILL

AYRSHIRE

WELLNESS

Waterside spa

Just 40 minutes from Glasgow, The Waterside Hotel in West Kilbride has opened its

Si Spa overlooking the beach, with outdoor facilities that include a large hydro pool

commanding views over the Firth of Clyde as well as a sheltered firepit. A four-person

Rasul area can be found indoors, along with sauna, steam and treatment rooms.

Spa breaks from £110pp including overnight stay and 25-minute treatment;

watersideayrshire.com

EAST SUSSEX

Crafty stay

If you’ve always wanted to know

how to build a birdhouse, to learn

printmaking or to take a dye

workshop, you can do so during a

stay at Crafted at Powdermills in

Battle, the first in a planned series of

hotels. A number of different crafts

will be offered alongside wellness

options ranging from forest yoga

and lakeside saunas to cold dips and

paddleboarding on a seven-acre

private lake. The hotel, in a Georgian

country house, has 51 rooms.


staycrafted.com

YORKSHIRE

Retreats at Broughton

One of this year’s stand-out retreats at

Broughton Sanctuary’s Avalon Wellbeing

centre in the Yorkshire Dales is the week-long

programme called Hold Nothing: Strength,

Subtlety and Inner Peace with yoga teacher

Elena Brower. Held from May 10-17, it includes a

stay in one of the 23 self-catering holiday homes

that are scattered around the grounds.

From £2,000pp including accommodation;

broughtonsanctuary.co.uk


Scan to enter · Win a Village Enclosure package ·

WIN THE ULTIMATE ROYAL ASCOT

fine dining experience

A culinary feast, trackside views, and summer’s most exclusive party – this is

your chance to win a luxury Village Enclosure package for two.

British Travel Journal has teamed up with Ascot

Racecourse to offer the chance to win an exquisite

experience at the most revered event in the social

calendar – Royal Ascot.

One lucky winner and their guest will receive an unforgettable,

all-inclusive hospitality package for two, valued at £1,200, for

Saturday 20th June 2026 in the vibrant Village Enclosure.

Your luxury day includes Pimm’s upon arrival, followed by

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This is racing at its most exquisite, where world-class

thoroughbreds compete for their place in history. Dress to

impress and be part of the style spectacle, as elegant artistry sets

the sartorial trends for the summer. For more information on the

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Enter via our website britishtraveljournal.com/competitions.

Last entries 31 May 2026. Over 18s only. T&C’s apply.


Just outside historic Guildford, Whitmoor Farm stretches across the beautiful

Trails for walking and cycling run across the estate, a heated outdoor pool

For the

traveller

Unforgettable cycling, walking and

touring holidays tailored just for you.

Explore the UK and beyond with ease, comfort, and style.

hello@the-carter-company.com

+44 (0)1296 631671

WHITMOOR FARM

by Morgan Signature Collection

E scape T o Th e E ngli sh Countryside

Surrey countryside, where space, calm and understated comfort meet. The farm’s

five self-catering cottages range from cozy retreats for couples to two-bedroom

cottages with thoughtfully designed bunk rooms for families.

welcomes summer days, and a tennis court offers a classic country touch.

Close to London yet entirely immersed in the countryside — Whitmoor Farm is a

rural escape done effortlessly.

Wild places

TO SEE REWILDING IN ACTION

Discover how rewilding projects across Britain are bringing

biodiversity-depleted landscapes back to life, and creating

fantastic places to explore the great outdoors.

Text by Kate Lewis

Britain was once a land of vast forests, home to wolves,

wildcats and bears, but centuries of agriculture and urban

expansion have taken a toll. Today, the UK is one of the

most nature-depleted countries on Earth. Since 1970, 19% of

species have declined, and one in six now faces extinction, according

to the 2023 State of Nature Report.

The rewilding movement hopes to reverse this ecological decline

by breathing life back into degraded landscapes. Rewilding means

letting nature lead, often with a helping hand, whether through

the reintroduction of native species or restoration of natural

processes. While some view rewilding as a threat to farmland or the

abandonment of land, its benefits are huge when it meets the needs

of local people, from boosting biodiversity and storing carbon to

improving water quality and reducing flooding risk. Access to nature

is also vital for wellbeing, and many rewilding projects welcome

visitors to reconnect with the natural world.

1GRANGE PROJECT,

MONMOUTHSHIRE

Once set aside for silage production, the

Grange Project is being transformed into a

rich mosaic of habitats through tree planting, pond

creation, fence removal, and two wild-roaming pigs.

Stay in off-grid wooden cabins, built from reclaimed

materials. Interiors feature hand-thrown crockery,

woollen throws, wood burners and copper washbasins.

A communal hub offers books, games, a kitchen,

honesty bar, and fantastic views across the project. Your

stay will also benefit the Grange Charity, which seeks

to promote nature connection and an understanding of

wild nature in young people.

Permissive trail is free to visit. Stay from £100 per night;

grangeproject.co.uk

2WICKEN FEN,

CAMBRIDGESHIRE

Wicken Fen, the National Trust’s first nature

reserve, is one of Europe’s key wetlands and

home to 9,600 species, making it Britain’s richest

wildlife haven. The ancient Sedge Fen, one of the UK’s

last undrained fenlands, reveals a habitat shaped

12,000 years ago. Natural regeneration and grazing

by Konik ponies and Highland cattle now help preserve

this rare ecosystem. Wicken Fen is a paradise for

birdwatchers, hosting bitterns, hen harriers, short-eared

owls, and cuckoos, alongside dragonflies, butterflies,

and rare orchids. Explore 40km of trails, boardwalks,

bird hides, or take to the waterways by boat.

Free for National Trust members. £9.90 per adult

otherwise; nationaltrust.org.uk

3ALLESTREE PARK, DERBY

CITY

Derby City’s ambitious rewilding project

is transforming a former golf course into

the UK’s largest urban rewilding site. This wild park

features maturing woodlands, wildflower meadows

and a lake with far-reaching views across the Derwent

Valley. The project encourages the local community

to play an active role through initiatives like year-long

fixed-point photography to observe the changes in the

landscape over time. Key conservation efforts include a

Minotaur dung beetle programme and the recovery of

the threatened willow tit.

Free to visit; derbyshirewildlifetrust.org.uk


4DUNDREGGAN, SCOTTISH

HIGHLANDS

Managed by Trees for Life, Dundreggan,

part of the Affric Highlands near Loch Ness,

is reviving the ancient Caledonian Forest by growing

thousands of rare and native trees. Over two million

have been planted, a vital step in restoring a forest that

once blanketed much of Scotland. Dundreggan is also

home to the world’s first rewilding centre, offering an

immersive introduction to rewilding through exhibits,

a café, and storytelling. Outdoors, head out on wellmarked

footpaths to spot sparrowhawks, golden

eagles, and red squirrels, or join a guided “tracks and

signs” tour to spot wildlife clues. The centre also hosts

pond-dipping sessions, guided tree nursery tours, and

activities exploring local folklore.

Free to visit. Stay from £130 per night;

visitdundreggan.co.uk


5BROUGHTON SANCTUARY,

YORKSHIRE

Once a high-intensity sheep farm, Broughton

Sanctuary is now one of Britain’s boldest

rewilding and wellness destinations. Set on 3,000

private acres, this grand Yorkshire estate is rewilding a

third of its land with beavers, bees, and over 350,000

native trees, alongside regenerative farming and

wetland restoration. Roam the woodlands with

herbalists, or bump over mountain bike trails. There’s

even an off-grid hermit hut by a wild swimming pond

and a Bronze Age cairn circle for spiritual grounding.

A futuristic-looking wellness centre houses a swimming

pool, crystal light bed and somadome (tech-led

meditation zone) plus yoga and sound bowl healing

classes. Rent one of 20 cute country cottages or go for

broke and hire the entire estate.

Stay from £160 per night; broughtonsanctuary.co.uk


6ALLADALE, SCOTTISH

HIGHLANDS

Privately-owned Alladale, one hour north of

Inverness, spans 23,000 acres of reforested

glens, craggy hills and heather-clad moors. Custodian

Paul Lister has led the transformation since 2003,

planting a million native trees, restoring peatlands,

reintroducing red squirrels, and establishing a wildcat

breeding centre. Choose from three different-sized

luxury lodges, overlooking river waters or ancient forest.

The full wilderness experience offers remote, off-grid

hiking amidst dramatic mountainscapes, with sightings

of golden eagles and mountain hares. Guided activities

are also available, from bike rides and sunrise yoga to

sound baths and forest bathing.

Stay from £2,950 per week; alladale.com


7KNEPP ESTATE, SUSSEX

Isabella Tree and Charlie Burrell began rewilding

their struggling family farm in 2000. Today

it is a trailblazing nature restoration project,

where 3,500 acres of scrub, pasture and wetlands house

peregrine falcons, nightingales, turtle doves, plus all five

owl species and old English longhorn cattle, tamworth

pigs, and Exmoor ponies serve as stand-ins for extinct

wild grazers. White storks have been reestablished and

are blossoming. Over 15 miles of walking trails are open

to the public. Knepp also organises ecologist-guided 4x4

safaris. Enjoy BBQs and farm-to-table lunches at the

on-site kitchen, recently awarded a prestigious Green

MICHELIN star. Browse the shop for gorgeous nature and

conservation-inspired homewares or stay for longer in a

shepherd hut or under canvas.

Free to visit, guided safaris from £75, and camping from

£25 per person, stay from £300 for two nights; knepp.co.uk


IMAGES: GLEN LOYNE © TREES FOR LIFE, CABIN © GRANGE PROJECT, KINGFISHERS © MIKE SELBY FOR NATIONAL TRUST, ALLESTREE COMMUNITY DAY © DERBY CITY COUNCIL, SCOTTISH WILDCAT & RED SQUIRREL © SCOTLAND THE BIG PICTURE, NATURE RECOVERY & WILD

SWIMMING © BROUGHTON SANCTUARY/SIMON JAUNCEY, ALLADALE & HIGHLAND COW © ALLADALE, TREEHOUSE © KNEPP, EXMOOR PONIES © KATE LEWIS, BLEAN ART TRAIL © KATE LEWIS, BEAVER © NIKLAS HAMANN FOR UNSPLASH, HELMAN TOR © THE ROAD IS LONG

8WEST BLEAN AND THORNDEN

WOODS, KENT

The Wilder Blean Project is home to Britain’s largest

stretch of ancient woodland, and the country’s only

free-roaming herd of European bison. Introduced in 2022, the

bisons’ natural behaviours disturb the soil, spread seeds, and

open up dense woodland, allowing plants, insects, and birds

to flourish. Calves were born in 2023, signalling the project’s

success. Other conservation grazers, such as hairy Iron Age

pigs, Exmoor ponies, and longhorn cattle, also help reshape

the landscape. Wander the woods via a network of trails and

Bison bridges that wind through the fern-filled forest. For the

best chance of spotting the bison, join a guided “bison safari”

led by the Kent Wildlife Trust.

Free to visit and guided bison ranger experience £65 per

person; kentwildlifetrust.org.uk

9EALING BEAVER PROJECT,

WEST LONDON

In 2023, Eurasian beavers returned to west

London for the first time in over 400 years.

Five of these adorably round rodents were released

into Paradise Fields, a 10-acre rewilding site within the

Horsenden Hill conservation area. Their dams reduce

flooding, improve water quality, and boost biodiversity

by creating rich wetland habitats, and efforts are

attracting further wildlife such as harvest mice,

kingfishers and swifts. Guided evening safaris offer the

best chance to spot these charismatic creatures. In the

future, this volunteer-led community project hopes to

bring back the locally extinct water vole, too.

Free to visit and guided evening safaris £27.80 per

person, theealingbeaverproject.com

TO SHORE, CORNWALL

Tor to Shore, launched in 2024 by Cornwall

Wildlife Trust, is one of the UK’s most exciting

10TOR

new rewilding initiatives. Stretching from the

rugged granite summit of Helman Tor to the sparkling waters

of St Austell Bay, this ambitious project links land and sea

across a diverse landscape of heathland, ancient woodland,

bogs, and one of the UK’s largest subtidal seagrass meadows.

Wildlife corridors will reconnect fragmented habitats through

rewilding, sustainable farming, and marine conservation.

The area is already brimming with biodiversity, with beaver

sightings and a diverse bird population, from stonechats to the

red-listed willow tit, one of Britain’s rarest birds.

Free to visit; cornwallwildlifetrust.org.uk


THE FULL

Fox

Tucked away in the Cotswolds, Foxhill

Manor is reimagining the luxury allinclusive

escape. British Travel Journal

checks in for an indulgent five-star stay.

Text by Sophie Farrah

Picture this: you arrive at a luxurious Cotswolds manor house,

and from the moment you step through the door, everything is

included. Unlimited Champagne flows freely, alongside a curated

selection of cocktails and fine wines. In the kitchen, you meet

with the chef to shape your menus for the days ahead. Time drifts easily

between the hot tub and sauna nestled in the woods, your suite’s own

gargantuan bathtub, and evenings spent in the cinema room with snacks

handpicked from the abundant pantry. Welcome to Foxhill Manor: the

UK’s first all-inclusive five-star retreat.

Honey-stoned and Grade II listed, Foxhill Manor sits tucked away

within 500 acres of rolling countryside on the Farncombe Estate, high

above the Cotswolds village of Broadway. Approached through sweeping

grounds and framed by far-reaching views, it feels hidden from the

outside world. The estate remains in private ownership and, over the past

four decades, has been thoughtfully shaped into a small collection of

characterful, hygge-inspired hotels, including Dormy House and The Fish.

Foxhill Manor is the estate’s most luxurious offering, and the introduction

of its all-inclusive ‘Full Fox’ package raises the bar still further.

With just eight individually designed bedrooms, the handsome Arts

and Crafts manor house feels more like a private home than a hotel. On

arrival, I notice another guest’s slippers waiting by the front door, set

beside a towel and dog bowl, ready for their return from a country walk.

Guests are very much encouraged to kick back, relax, and treat the house

exactly as they would their own.


Admittedly, my suite bore little resemblance to my

own living arrangements at home, though I was more

than happy to pretend otherwise for the night. I checked

into the supremely elegant Juniper suite, a spacious

ground-floor room finished in soft and serene neutral

tones with pops of sage green, and a bathroom so huge

it feels like a room in its own right. At its centre sits a

show-stopping double-size freestanding bath, perfectly

positioned for long, leisurely soaks, with bucolic views

framed by romantic leaded windows.

Within minutes of arriving, I was settled on a sofa

by the roaring fire in the elegant drawing room, a glass

of chilled, crisp Champagne in hand. Any concern that

the all-inclusive nature of the stay might compromise

quality is quickly dispelled; the house fizz comes courtesy

of prestigious Champagne house Delamotte, and it is

excellent. If fizz isn’t your thing, an array of bottles are

elegantly arranged beneath an ornate gold-framed

portrait, and guests are warmly encouraged to help

themselves.

I kicked back and admired the historic house’s

intricately corniced ceilings, mullion windows, and

elegant décor. The cake of the day, a decadent chocolate

and mascarpone slice, beckoned from the corner of the

room, and I was also offered a light lunch, but decided to

save myself for dinner.

Despite the level of luxury on offer, service throughout

is energetic, friendly, and refreshingly informal. House

manager Curtis gave me an animated tour of the house,

pointing out the impressive cinema room, well-stocked

bar, and various inviting lounge areas. Outside, a pretty

garden terrace with sweeping views across the northern

Cotswolds is prime rosé territory, when the weather

allows. Our next stop was the cellar, where we perused

the wines that would be on offer at dinner, followed by

The Pantry, a small space on the landing brimming with

all manner of treats, from artisan popcorn and housebaked

biscuits to a jellybean machine and a fridge fully

stocked with bottles of iced tea and Jeremy Clarkson’s

local Hawkstone lager. “Just help yourself anytime,”

Curtis announced cheerily.

Our final destination was the kitchen, which guests

are encouraged to visit whenever they like. We swung

through the doors and were greeted by smiling senior


‘Within minutes of arriving,

I was settled on a sofa

by the roaring fire in the

elegant drawing room,

a glass of chilled, crisp

Champagne in hand.

Any concern that the allinclusive

nature of the stay

might compromise quality

is quickly dispelled; the

house fizz comes courtesy

of prestigious Champagne

house Delamotte, and it is

excellent.’


‘Fancy lobster thermidor? No problem. A Sunday roast

with all the trimmings? Coming right up. Surf and turf?

A seasonal salad? Spicy curry? Otis and his team have

the means – and the skill – to make it happen.’


sous chef, Otis, who explained that I could have anything I

liked for dinner. “Anything?” I asked, in disbelief. “Anything,”

he confirmed, with a grin. The three hotels on the Farncombe

Estate all share a collective larder, meaning that the choice

is almost endless. Fancy lobster thermidor? No problem. A

Sunday roast with all the trimmings? Coming right up. Surf

and turf? A seasonal salad? Spicy curry?

Otis and his team have the means – and the skill – to make

it happen. For those in need of inspiration, a handwritten

blackboard offers suggestions, including ‘Foxhill favourites’

and a rotating selection of dishes shaped by whatever

ingredients are fresh in that day. After a certain amount of

deliberation, Otis and I settled on a menu so enticing that I

could barely wait for dinner.

Curtis suggested that a session in the woodland sauna

and hot tub might be a good distraction, so off I went. He also

insisted that a bottle of Champagne would only improve the

experience, and I wasn’t about to argue – everything’s included

after all. Hidden within Foxhill’s grounds, at the end of a

winding path, the secluded hot tub is tucked among the trees,

with views stretching out across the countryside.

As dusk began to fall, the lights of Broadway started to

twinkle in the distance. I took this as my cue to scurry back to

my suite and prepare for dinner.

One of Foxhill’s greatest pleasures is that there is no

restaurant, as such. Instead, guests are free to dine wherever

(and whenever) they please throughout the house. If you’re

feeling sociable, one of the larger lounges offers the chance to

share the space with your fellow guests; for something more

‘à deux’, there’s a choice of tables tucked away in candlelit

corners. For full romance, a table can be laid in the cellar, or

outside by the gently trickling fountain on the terrace in the

summer months.

I made a beeline for a cosy table for two by the fireplace

in the bar, where I started with a very good cherry Manhattan

and a round of cards chosen from the house’s extensive

collection of games.

The menu that Otis and I had settled on did not

disappoint. The largest hand-dived Orkney scallop I have ever

seen arrived perfectly cooked, resting in a decadent scallop

butter sauce, its richness lifted by plump pickled mussels and

salty sea herbs.

The twice-baked Comté soufflé that followed was the

stuff dreams are made of; light and fluffy with a slightly crispy-


chewy outer layer, it arrived sitting in a pool of creamy cheese sauce, gently

laced with rosemary, on a bed of wilted spinach. It was one of those deeply

indulgent dishes that I quickly professed I would not be able to finish, but,

somehow, I managed it.

The wine flowed freely: a delicious Chablis, an Austrian Welschriesling,

a crisp Provençal rosé, and a smooth Chilean shiraz were just some of the

Corney & Barrow bottles on offer.

The decadence continued with a whole lemon sole, again perfectly

cooked and market-fresh, dotted with smoky whipped cod’s roe and

samphire, and finished with a cucumber beurre blanc filled with freshness.

It was rich and silky, and tasted unmistakably of the sea. Finally, Foxhill’s

sticky toffee pudding was a standout, served with plenty of butterscotch

sauce, a slice of caramelised banana, and a generous dollop of smooth

banana ice cream.

As you can imagine, a digestif was required, and once again, the

possibilities are endless. The bar is stocked with an impressive array of

premium spirits, and any cocktail can be mixed or muddled to order. We

worked our way through the whisky collection, reclined by the fire, before

the temptation of bed became too much.


After a very good night’s sleep, I luxuriated

in the swimming pool-sized bath, unhurried as

breakfast at Foxhill can be enjoyed at whatever

time you like. I chose a secluded table on the firstfloor

landing, tucked neatly between the staircase

balustrades and a large leaded window, with

views stretching all the way to the Malvern Hills.

There is no breakfast menu. Much like dinner,

the first meal of the day consists of whatever your

heart desires: kedgeree, pancakes, shakshuka,

kippers, a full English, avocado on toast…. the

choice is yours. After the excesses of dinner,

I opted for a refined continental selection of

whipped yoghurt, crunchy granola, fruit salad,

and warm pastries, all exquisitely presented and

utterly delicious.

A stay at Foxhill Manor includes an ondemand

chauffeur service in the hotel’s sleek

4x4, which whisks guests either into the nearby

town of Broadway, a chocolate-box Cotswolds

village filled with independent shops, or to the

small but perfectly formed spa at Dormy House,

just a five-minute drive (or leisurely 30-minute

walk) away. I opted for the latter and spent the

morning swimming off dinner in the sleek 16-metre

indoor infinity pool. There’s also an outdoor

hydrotherapy pool and an impressive indoor

thermal area, complete with a rather captivating

snow shower, where cool snowflakes fall gently

onto the skin in order to stimulate circulation.

Feeling well and truly revitalised, I returned

to Foxhill for a final coffee before the inevitable

checkout, at a very civilised midday. Thanks to the

Full Fox rate, there was no bill. No nasty surprises.

Just a fond farewell, and a couple of bottles of

water for the road.

All-inclusive concepts may not be new, but at

Foxhill Manor, the model feels uniquely luxurious,

delivered within an intimate country house setting

that feels both elegant and relaxed. From start

to finish, the experience is gloriously indulgent

and makes it remarkably easy to switch off. Does

it set a new standard for a high-end, hassle-free

getaway? Absolutely. And with that cheese soufflé

in the mix, I’d say it’s a winning formula.

The Full Fox at Foxhill Manor starts at £1,090 per

night for two people, including lunch, dinner, unlimited

house spirits, Champagne and soft drinks, wine with

dinner and full raiding rights of the Pantry, as well as

access to The House Spa at Dormy House. Bed and

breakfast from £790 per night; foxhillmanor.com

THE TEMPUS

ESCAPE TO THE TEMPUS,

NORTHUMBERLAND’S BOLD BOUTIQUE RETREAT

Nestled in the peaceful Charlton Hall Estate,

The Tempus is a striking boutique hotel just

minutes from the Northumberland coast, the

A1, and historic Alnwick. With 52 unique rooms,

bold interiors, and a playful edge, it offers a

countryside escape like no other. Dine on

seasonal dishes at The Orangery, sip cocktails

under shimmering disco balls, or explore nearby

castles and beaches. The Tempus blends

contemporary luxury with charm in one of

England’s most captivating regions.

Book your table and discover the beauty of

Northumberland at The Tempus.

www.thetempus.co.uk | info@thetempus.co.uk | 01665 579173

SAVOUR THE

slow stylish

FOWEY

A destination for the curious traveller, Fowey is a thriving Cornish fishing

port, home to innovative street food, hip cafes and creative pop-ups with

The King of Prussia – a boutique-style pub with rooms – at the heart.

Text by Natalie Millar-Partridge

We know we’ve arrived in Fowey when

the roads begin to narrow, and snaking

down into the town, we get a whiff of the

salt-fresh air with lingering notes of fresh

seafood. With its cute coves and sandy inlets, quintessential

white-washed fisherman’s cottages and the hub of the

harbour with its water-faring activity, the allure of this

Cornish town is all about simple pleasures.

It’s definitely a town designed for strolling, pasty-inhand,

watching the world sail by; grab some inventive

street food from Captain Hanks – a cute little van situated

at the end of North Street – or perhaps enjoy a Cornishbrewed

Doom Bar whilst sitting outside The Ship Inn,

before strolling through ice-cream coloured streets to

Readymoney Cove for spectacular sea views from the

Esplanade, followed by a hike up around St Catherine’s

Castle and along the clifftops for 360 degree coastal

vistas.

Set at the hub of Fowey’s Town Quay – a stone’s throw

to independent boutiques, cafes, bars, galleries and

restaurants – with the river directly in front of the property,

providing stunning estuary views to watch the day boats,

and foot-ferry come and go, The King of Prussia – a


‘It was a joy to stay in one of the six contemporary bedrooms, each with its

own delightful estuary views and a luxurious super king bed, alongside

comfortable armchairs to sink into and soak up the views.’

beautifully transformed boutique-style pub with rooms

– has prime position at the heart of this popular fishing

port. The striking pink St Austell Brewery-owned building

was taken over by Teresa Matthews at the beginning of

2025, who empathetically restored the property using a

fusion of vintage and modern pieces from local antiques

and interiors stores, along with local artworks by Nicole

Heidaripour, whose simple monochrome prints draw from

the coastal elements of the landscape. Think warm and

informal – there’s a relaxed pub vibe with soft lighting,

comfy seating, and a mix of high tables with stools,

alongside sofa seating around the fire and deep armchairs

tucked into Bay windows, perfect to enjoy the views.

It was a joy to stay in one of the six contemporary

bedrooms, each with its own delightful estuary views and a

luxurious super king bed, alongside comfortable armchairs

to sink into and soak up the views. Additional treats are

welcomed in the form of homemade cookies and beautiful

bathrooms with Cornish-based, Land & Water toiletries,

alongside a mini guide book to Fowey, covering the best

places to eat, drink, and walk in the area. It’s a super chic

spot to take time out, set at the hub of the town, with a

focus on fuss-free food.

FOOD FIT FOR A KING

Dining at the King is an absolute treat; with its estuary

views, the light-filled space is all about quality, creative

plates in a warm, friendly, relaxed and unpretentious

environment. It’s the perfect spot to savour authentic

Cornish fare. Everything served is made in-house, with the

team working hard to ensure every element of each dish

is handcrafted themselves. Head Chef Scott Williams has

over twenty years’ experience in the fine dining industry

and celebrates timeless British cuisine with a cultureinfused

modern twist, injecting a little creative flair into his

aesthetic plates whilst respecting much-loved traditions.

Expect elevated pub classics using innovative flavours

and some elements of surprise within his evolving


‘Dining at the King is an absolute treat; with its estuary views, the light-filled space is

friendly, relaxed and unpretentious, it’s the perfect spot to savour authentic Cornish fare.’

seasonal menus, where focus is on local, sustainable

ingredients. It’s a fresh, crowd-pleasing approach, the

real draw being the incredible sea food – we devoured

hand-dived Scallops with a hazelnut crust, followed by

roasted Monkfish, chorizo & red pepper puree, spinach

and pomme dauphine chimichurri, served alongside

delicious home baked breads, keeping it sweet with a

deconstructed Eton Mess, washed down with Cornishinspired

Negronis and Grapefruit and Citrus spritz – it

doesn’t get better.

area, selling a small line of their own Salt Society Apparel,

designed to be stylish and super comfortable, also as a

souvenir to take home and remind visitors of Fowey itself.

Cornwall has always been a thriving creative destination,

with a host of renowned restaurants, innovative street food

vendors, hip cafes and creative pop-ups; it’s this steady

A CREATIVE COMMUNITY

Found in the heart of Fowey, Salt Society is an independent

concept store, selling a curated selection of clothing and

homewares, rooted in its seaside surrounds. The store

embodies slow, stylish living, inspired by the coast.

Founded by the previous owners of The King of Prussia,

Harriet and Richard Secular launched Salt Society – the

idea of creating a store that embodies coastal living came

from the stunning landscape of Fowey and the surrounding


stream of industry start-ups, appealing to the curious

traveller and locals alike, that enable small businesses

to thrive, adding to Cornwall’s ever-growing creative

scene. Salt Society was created with community in mind,

and Harriet has slowly built on this with ‘Society events’

including creative workshops, wine tastings and late-night

shopping evenings, designed to bring togetherness into the

community.

Rooms at The King of Prussia have been kitted out with

some smaller items from the collection, such as throws,

cushions, vases, diffusers – even the speakers from the store

are available to purchase. Driven by her Cornish venture,

Harriet has since opened a second store on Fore Street –

Boheme – with the same concept as Salt Society, yet with a

more bohemian feel to it.

LAND AND SEA

Whether exploring the coast by foot or by boat, there are

plenty of activities to throw yourself into, from kayaking

and canoeing to sailing, swimming, rock pooling and

crabbing. Boat trips are available from Town Quay,

alongside wildlife sea safaris and self-drive boat, kayak and

paddle board hire.

We took the foot ferry over to Polruan – a ten-minute

trip to a charming village that sits at the mouth of the River

Fowey, with two characterful pubs and direct access to the

South West Coast Path, where we set about discovering

the local countryside that inspired Rosamunde Pilcher’s

Shell Seekers. There’s also a regular 40-minute ferry ride

to Mevagissey, one of the oldest fishing ports in the county,

once the centre of Cornwall’s pilchard fishery; it still boasts

a working harbour today.

If you prefer to explore by foot, there are some

spectacular walks to discover in and around Fowey; The

Hall Walk is a personal favourite – a circular route that

takes you over the car ferry to Boddinick, then around

to Polruan and back on the passenger ferry – it’s an

undulating six miles of varied terrain, and a truly beautiful

route. If you’re after something more challenging, take the

four-mile stretch of coast path from Polruan to Lantic Bay,


or the lengthier seven-mile stretch from Polkerris beach,

following the coastline to Gribben Head and the Daymark

on the point, continuing along to Polridmouth, passing

through a few coves to St Catherine’s Castle, overlooking

Readymoney Cove. If you’re up for a real challenge,

embark on the 11-mile point-to-point trail near Fowey –

the route takes you from Polruan to Looe, via the South

West Coast Path.

There are also some great beaches, reachable within

15-minutes’ walk or drive from the centre of Fowey;

the picture-postcard Readymoney Cove is a delightful

sheltered spot for picnicking and paddling, with its

winding path up to the ruins of St Catherine’s Castle –

built in 1536 by Henry VIII – walk beyond the ruins, and

around the clifftops for spectacular 360 degree views.

A short 15-minute drive takes you to the stunning

Carlyon Bay Beach, a great place visit with a host of

independent street food outlets and bars open April-

September, and there’s also Lantic Bay, a beautiful dog

friendly National Trust beach, reachable by taking the

car ferry from Caffa Mill – it’s a very steep descent from

the car park, but completely worth the uphill hike back!

If the former sounds a little taxing, Head to Coombe

FOWEY HARBOUR @ ADOBESTOCK. MEVAGISSEY HARBOUR @ ADOBESTOCK / IAN

WOOLCOCK. THE OLIVE BRANCH @ SUZANNE MARSHALL.


Hawne, the cutest little cove, where a picturesque

National Trust cottage sits at the edge of the beach next

to a pond. Take a picnic, or a portable BBQ and spend

the day relaxing, listening to the waves.

A FOODIE’S HAVEN

Fowey also offers a brilliant base to stroll the pretty, narrow

streets and browse the array of boutiques, galleries, artisan

shops and cafés serving cream teas and local produce. When

it comes to feeling peckish, you’re spoilt for choice with many

eateries catering for different tastes.

We love to start the day at Brown Sugar, a superb spot

for Cornish roasted coffee, sweet treats and a stand-out

breakfast or brunch. For authentic tapas, you can’t beat

Pintxo, a superb spot to tuck into Spanish-style small

plates, sherry and wines street-side, bringing a European

vibe to the town. For seafood lovers, there’s also North

Street Kitchen with its rustic open plan, indoor-outdoor

restaurant, complete with views over the estuary and

daily-changing menus packed with seasonal produce and

the freshest catch of the day. There’s also The Galleon with

its terrace on the river – a superb spot to sit and watch the

day boats come and go. For an authentic taste of Italy with

a Cornish twist, head to the Olive Branch, a beautiful new

addition to Fowey, offering innovative salad bowls and

fresh deli-style produce. For a cream tea or a standout

Sunday roast, Fowey Hall hits just the right note, with

its elevated position on a quiet hillside with acres of

beautifully manicured gardens and stunning estuary

views. During warmer months, enjoy terrace seating

whilst tucking into locally-sourced ingredients, including

meat and game from local farms, alongside seafood

landed by Fowey’s fishermen – fresh handpicked mussels

and samphire from Cornish shores and herbs from the

kitchen garden.

It wouldn’t be right to visit Fowey without heading to

Ruby’s Ice Cream Parlour – a quaint spot serving indulgent

ice cream. There’s also Game of Cones, an iconic foodie

destination, serving an extensive list of inventive ice cream

flavours. With ice cream cones in hand, it’s the perfect way

to round off our trip, and as we leave the South coast of

Cornwall behind, watching the bobbing sailboats fade

into the distance, we reflect on the moments that made our

Fowey adventure.

Prices to stay overnight at The King of Prussia start from

£180 off-season, and £200 in high season, inclusive of

breakfast; thekingfowey.co.uk


EDINBURGH’S

Secret

Manor


Free-roaming peacocks, velvetclad

rooms and Champagne

on ice – this extraordinary

hotel, Prestonfield House, has

the power to truly surprise and

delight, set in the shadow of

Edinburgh’s iconic Arthur’s Seat.

Text by Amy Bonifas

I

never pass up an opportunity to drive to Prestonfield

House,” says our driver as he picks us up from

Edinburgh’s Waverley Station. “The house is stunning,

but I mainly just love seeing Colin.” Shaking off four

hours of travel, it takes us a moment to enquire – Colin is

the hotel’s resident peacock, of course.

Upon arriving at this magical place – a decadent

white and stone building surrounded by sprawling

gardens – we learn that Prestonfield is also buzzing with

other wildlife. There’s Raven, the fiercely independent

black cat, three shaggy Highland cows happily chewing

away in the grasslands and a host of beehives, producing

the delicious honey that’s generously drizzled over my

porridge one morning.

The hotel is alive with history, too. Once known as

‘Priestfield Estate,’ the grounds were previously home

to a medieval monastery. After the Wars of Scottish

Independence, the monastery’s lands were seized and

handed down to various powerful families through the years.

The original Priestfield House was burned down after

an anti-Catholic riot in the 1600s, but wealthy landowner

Sir James Dick commissioned a new building and, together

with renowned architect Sir William Bruce (the mastermind

behind Edinburgh’s Palace of Holyroodhouse), made it the

luxurious Baroque-style manor it is now.

With 23 individually styled bedrooms, the interiors

are opulent and indulgent – a dream for maximalists.

The Leather Room is adorned with remarkable panels of

17th-century Spanish leather, the entrance hall is a vision of

“


polished monochrome marble, and the huge antler chairs

in the Whisky Room are positioned around a deep cabinet

filled with amber-rich, rare malt whisky.

After a very warm welcome – the service is impeccable

and reassuringly down-to-earth – we’re shown to the

Winston Churchill Suite. Churchill was an MP for Dundee

for 14 years and was a regular visitor to the hotel. Fittingly,

the room is bold and audacious, awash with crimson

velvet patterns and decked with military artworks and

artefacts. The daybed in the sitting room is nearly as big

as our tapestry-hung King bed, and there are two marble

bathrooms to choose from.

For very special occasions, be sure to book the Owner’s

Suite. With its own private entrance via a stone staircase,

the views of the gardens and lawns are stunning up here,

and the room is filled with extravagant antiques and a

chariot bath for two (that had to be transported through

the window).

The sun has emerged, so we head for the balcony,

shaded with the hotel’s signature red umbrellas, and

offering breathtaking views of Arthur’s Seat. The upstairs

drawing rooms are filling with guests tucking into elegant

Champagne afternoon teas, and I glance over enviously at

the delicate finger sandwiches and golden-lidded scones.

Later, I’m so glad we saved ourselves as we’re shown

to our table at the hotel’s Rhubarb restaurant – socalled

as Prestonfield was the first estate in Scotland to

propagate rhubarb in the 18th century, and is still grown

on the estate today.

This is the place to bring a healthy appetite. Guests

can choose from the six-course tasting menu with paired

cocktails and wines; a ‘Best of the Season’ selection with

highlights like Perthshire red deer, Aberdeenshire lamb

and locally grown strawberries and courgettes; and the

‘Comforting Classics’, filled with wholesome dishes that

are impossible for us to resist.

As we order, we catch Colin the peacock watching us

curiously from the upper branches of a tree opposite the

restaurant window.

We begin with the silky langoustine bisque, made all

IMAGES @ DAVID CHESKIN / ADOBE STOCK / JAROSLAV MORAVCIK


‘In the morning, we return to the same sunlit spot by the window for breakfast,

and we plan our hike from Holyrood Park to Arthur’s Seat. It’s just as well that there

are plenty of hearty Scottish favourites to fuel us.’

the more indulgent with whisky clotted cream and tangy

St. Andrews cheddar fleurons. The succulent guinea fowl

has a delicious lemon-thyme glaze and is dotted with

smoked bacon and apricot.

However, the crowning glory is the Pink Lady apple

tarte tatin. It arrives still bubbling with sticky Calvados

caramel and scoops of vanilla ice cream, and it’s utter

heaven. There’s no rush over dinner, and guests are invited

to cosy up with digestifs and cheese in one of the seemingly

countless drawing rooms.

In the morning, we return to the same sunlit spot by the

window for breakfast, and we plan our hike from Holyrood

Park to Arthur’s Seat. It’s just as well that there are plenty

of hearty Scottish favourites to fuel us.

There’s no shortage of handmade haggis, Lorne

sausage and black pudding (much to my husband’s

delight), but I opt for the ‘Boiled egg in a cup’ made with

soft-boiled local eggs mashed with salted Scottish butter

and chives, with soldiers on the side.

Sadly, there’s no sign of Colin when it comes to say

goodbye, but we are treated to a close encounter with

two of the gorgeous Highland cows, looking at us lazily

through their long ginger fringes. We won’t be forgetting

this special place in a hurry, so much so that I’m already

planning our wintry return on the long train home.

Luxury bedrooms at Prestonfield House start from £375 per

night; prestonfield.com


REDEFINING WELLNESS

finding

balance...


Combe Grove, Bath’s unique

Metabolic Health Centre, is a

beautiful retreat, redefining wellness

and offering a restorative escape

where health, healing, and holistic

well-being come together to guide

you back to perfect balance.

Text by Jessica Way

Across the world, wellness is evolving. The oncedominant

focus of fad diets, step counts, and

calorie counting is giving way to something gentler:

slow wellness. It’s less about measuring progress

and more about feeling better – a return to the rhythm of

meditation, breath work, and renewal.

Luxury, once defined by excess, now whispers a different

story of less noise, fewer distractions, and the rare freedom to

master the art of slowing down. This ‘quiet luxury’ movement

is embraced by Combe Grove, championing the quality of

ingredients, sleep, being in nature, mindful exercises, and, most

importantly, the invaluable gift of time – time to think, to rest,

and to reconnect with yourself.

Many of us are craving more pause and appreciation in

our lives, and if that’s you, Combe Grove is where you want to

be – it’s your chance to choose stillness amidst a world that

constantly evolves at a relentless pace. The stunning estate is

idyllically situated in a hidden spot of picturesque countryside,

less than 10 minutes’ drive from the double-inscribed UNESCO

World Heritage City of Bath. Slowing down here is not only made

easy but celebrated as a profound act of self-care.

THE FIVE ROOTS OF METABOLIC HEALTH: A

RESTORATIVE JOURNEY

Combe Grove offers more than a traditional health spa – it

stands apart as the UK’s only medically measurable Metabolic

Health Retreat, a restorative luxury break that guides guests

through the five pillars of metabolic health: nutrition, movement,

sleep, mindset, and environmental stimulus.


‘Many of us are craving more pause and appreciation in our lives, and if that’s

you, Combe Grove is where you want to be – it’s your chance to choose stillness

amidst a world that constantly evolves at a relentless pace.’

At Combe Grove, the outdated notion of relentless exercise

and restrictive diets gives way to a far more balanced

approach, countering the effects of modern processed

foods that contribute to to insulin spikes, inflammation,

and feelings of tiredness, anxiety, and undernourishment.

Whether you’re looking to make a lifestyle change to

reverse prediabetes and Type 2 diabetes or simply yearn

for renewed willpower and motivation, Combe Grove

is a peaceful sanctuary – and incredibly welcoming to

everyone seeking wellness.

A SANCTUARY OF SERENITY: EXPLORING THE

ESTATE

Nestled within 70 acres of woodland and rolling meadows,

Combe Grove is a picturesque Grade II listed Georgian

House with incredible views across the Bath countryside.

The estate comprises three main buildings: the historic Main

House, the practical Coach House, and the modern Barn.

The Main House boasts beautiful artwork by Neeta

Madahar, a delightful café, The Map Room, open to

guests and members, serving healthy lunches and delicious

low-carbohydrate cakes and treats (as well as herbal

Pukka teas of almost every blend), along with a library,

lounge, dining room, and additional treatment rooms.

The Coach House is home to a gym, saunas, a steam

room, hydrotherapy beds, and a 16-meter indoor pool with

stunning views, as well as a beautiful 12-meter outdoor

pool just a short walk to the front garden. One afternoon,

following a hugely restorative massage and a tranquil

swim, I found a moment of pure calm sitting by the

outdoor pool, where the peaceful chattering of two Robins

completed the serene experience.

The Barn houses the bedrooms for retreat guests, as

well as the Oak Room, a beautiful space for workshops,

complete with an open fire and large glass windows that

bring the outdoors in. I stayed in one of the spacious

Grove Rooms situated on the first floor, a split-level room,

designed to create a harmonious connection with nature,

featuring a private outdoor balcony that overlooks the

verdant valley. The beds are enormous with soft UK fleece

wool bedding and giant soft pillows (the type where your

head melts right in), ensuring a super night’s sleep.


There’s a rather stylish Robert Welch nutcracker with

organic English walnuts, available for a mindful snack – such

was its charm, I bought one to take home with me. Treatment

baths, complete with seaweed infusions from the Cornish

Seaweed Company and exfoliating scrubs using Dorset sea

salt, offered a deeply relaxing and nourishing experience.

I was also delighted to discover the bathroom products

(there’s also a shower) are from our subscription partner,

Bramley, a British brand known for natural ingredients. Other

touches included hand-woven British blankets from Art of the

Loom and British-made linen waffle swimming towels from Brit

Locker, an eco-friendly company – and before leaving, guests

can also drop spare coins into the handmade china piggy bank

as a contribution to The Elmhurst Foundation.

NURTURING BODY AND SOUL: THE PROGRAMME

Our 5-day schedule at Combe Grove was thoughtfully

structured to nurture both body and soul. We began with a

health check analysis, including blood tests and an Accuniq

body composition analysis, followed later in the week with

a one-to-one nutritional consultation and a personalised

programme, with additional treatments and therapies of

our choice, including Reiki and holistic massages, as well as

emotional freedom techniques, individually designed and

tailored to help us unwind and recharge.

Our mornings often started outside, either on a tranquil

forest bathing walk, a kitchen garden tour, or simply taking



‘Our tour of the kitchen garden with

Farrel was an absolute joy. We learned

about permaculture, no-dig gardening,

wildlife conservation, and how to

nurture and prepare vegetables for

optimal nutrition and flavour.’

time to enjoy the nature and wildlife, followed by a

relaxing breathwork, meditation, or yoga class, and an

informative workshop. There’s also the option to book

yourself into a high-energy studio class like spin, circuits,

and Zumba – Combe members' activities, which are also

available to retreat guests.

I didn’t quite manage one of the additional classes;

however, when I discovered that the Bath Skyline Parkrun

was just across the road from Combe Grove, I felt I had

no excuse not to take part on the Saturday morning of my

stay. During the run, Liam, one of Combe Grove’s Personal

Trainers, shot past me, fit as a fiddle, less than 700 yards

in! Just a 10-minute stroll away, and the designated postcoffee

venue, Combe Grove, is an ideal base for those who

(like me) enjoy seeking out an opportunity for a dose of

‘Parkrun tourism’. Seeing Liam there was a fun reminder of

the genuine enthusiasm for movement and fitness shared

by both guests and the Combe Grove team.

Our tour of the kitchen garden with the fabulously

enthusiastic Farrel was an absolute joy. We learned about

permaculture, no-dig gardening, wildlife conservation,

and how to nurture and prepare vegetables for optimal

nutrition and flavour. We also embarked on a Forest

Bathing Walk with Heidi among the 70-acre grounds,

offering a chance to reconnect with nature. A Muntjac

Jack deer ran through the woods in front of us, and we

admired the falling leaves and a heart-shaped trunk.

During our wildlife walk with Steve, we discovered the

diverse wildlife, including the estate’s owls and bats, that

inhabit the disused railway tunnels and quarry caves on

the estate.

Steve explained how owls, symbols of wisdom and

protection, are cherished at Combe Grove, echoing

Celtic and Roman traditions in Bath, which are sacred to

Minerva, the goddess of wisdom and healing. Steve is the

man behind creating an environment where these majestic

birds can thrive. The estate is home to four of the six types

of UK owls, and efforts like building nesting boxes have led

to 20 owls making Combe Grove their home.

The distinct calls of long-eared owls have been heard

during breeding season, and the recent discovery of a barn

owl feather has spurred efforts to encourage little owls to


nest on the estate. The handcrafted pottery owls in the guest

bathrooms, available in the library shop, serve as a lasting

connection to the estate.

In the afternoons, activities included a sleep workshop with

Amanda, where we learned about 90-minute sleep cycles,

building sleep drive, and circadian rhythms. We also had

nutrition workshops with Emma, gaining valuable insights into

healthy eating habits. One evening, we enjoyed a fascinating

history talk with Jon in the drawing room with the fire roaring.

Jon, a genuinely charming and valuable character of Combe

Grove, even shared his passion for metal detecting, revealing

a collection of exciting finds that the team plans to frame and

display in units around the Main House.

Another evening, we listened to jazz music by local

musician Banji Lock-Powell. We even cooked a metabolismfriendly

meal with Oli, attended an environmental workshop

with Heidi, and enjoyed a super fun belly dancing class with

Wafaa, all while implementing our goals and healthy habits

with Oli.

Sustainability is woven into the very fabric of Combe Grove.

From the kitchen gardens and nutritious meals to rewilding and

conservation efforts, every choice reflects a deep commitment

to the environment. The estate aims to completely negate

its greenhouse gas emissions ahead of Bath and North East

Somerset’s 2030 goals. Combe Grove is also deeply committed

to its local community, building relationships with local GPs

to ensure health, healing, and holistic well-being are more

accessible to everyone. Beyond the retreat guests, the spirit of

wellness is echoed by local members, like Mary, whom I met in

the sauna. Mary visits Combe Grove almost every day and truly

radiates wellness – a genuine inspiration and a testament to the

importance of taking care of our health.

Our meals, eaten twice a day within an 8-hour window

during intermittent fasting, were a culinary delight.


‘Combe Grove is an invitation to a life-affirming experience, where the true luxury of

finding calm, health, and time to reconnect becomes a cherished reality... the most

meaningful moments are not the ones we fill — but the ones we make space for.’

We enjoyed two-course options, such as smoked trout

salad with fennel and golden beetroot, served with pickled

cucumber and almonds and a yoghurt dressing, and

spiced estate squash and pumpkin soup. For mains, we

had dishes such as Creedy cover duck breast with roasted

root vegetables and estate blackberry sauce and braised

chicken with edamame and mung bean fettuccine with

a tomato sauce. Nobody felt hungry, yet our bodies and

digestive systems received a beneficial rest.

It was no surprise that the majority of our group opted

for the three-month Returners Stay, a fantastic opportunity

to reunite with the group and ensure our commitment to

long-term health. Over a 3-night stay, the team evaluates

progress against the 10 Markers of Metabolic Health

and the 5 Roots of Metabolic Health. New Accuniq

measurements and blood tests are taken, reviewed against

personal goals, and guidance is provided for further

improvements. This ongoing support ensures accountability

and encouragement, helping guests maintain and build

upon the positive lifestyle changes embraced during their

initial retreat.

A JOURNEY OF ONGOING SUPPORT

For those seeking a shorter path to wellness, Combe

Grove also offers a two-night Mini Metabolic Programme,

a condensed version of the full retreat that delivers the

essential insights and knowledge for transformational

change. Alternatively, the one-day Health Reset Day serves

IMAGES @ COMBE GROVE / PETE HELME / ALICE WHITB


as an ideal starting point for rebalancing and prioritising your

well-being. Perfect for anyone feeling low on energy or ready for a

fresh start, the Reset Day includes an Accuniq body composition

analysis, HbA1c and lipids blood tests, and personalised

strategies – all designed to help you make meaningful changes

and reconnect with how good your body can feel, within the calm

and restorative surroundings of the Manor.

Combe Grove is an invitation to a life-affirming experience,

where the true luxury of finding calm, health, and time to

reconnect becomes a cherished reality. Finding space to

breathe, you discover that wellness will only really begin

when we stop rushing. The retreat’s mantra of ‘rest, restore,

reset’ transcends a mere promise, manifesting as a tangible,

enriching, and life-enriching experience.

I learned during my stay that the most meaningful moments

are not the ones we fill – but the ones we make space for.

Prices at Combe Grove begin with the Metabolic Reset Day

at £225, a single-day introduction to the principles of metabolic

health. Shorter stays include the Mini Metabolic Health Retreat (a

2-night option) from £1,200, while the full Classic Metabolic Health

Programme – a 5-night residential retreat including a 3-night followup

stay – starts from £3,200. For those who have completed the

initial retreat, the Additional Returners Retreat (3-night follow-up) is

available from £1,050; combegrove.com


FROM

Catwalk

TO

Cotswolds

George Davies, the visionary behind

Next, has turned his attention to

hospitality, opening a boutique

hotel in the artsy Cotswolds village

of Broadway. British Travel Journal

visits a place long loved by creatives.

Text by Jane Knight

If the pretty Cotswold village of Broadway were ever to gain

a nickname, ‘Georgeway’ would be hard to beat. It may not

be obvious at first glance, but the retail titan George Davies

owns the buildings behind a surprising slice of Broadway’s

businesses, including an art gallery, clothes shop, restaurant,

florist, bridal boutique and beauty salon. For a place of just

2,500 souls, it’s quite the personal fiefdom.

Now the man who dreamt up Next, George at Asda and

M&S’s Per Una has added ten stylish, keenly priced boltholes

– the George Apartments – plus his own hotel, the House of

George W Davies, which is planted squarely on the high street,

where he is most at home.

Just as Padstow morphed into ‘Padstein’ thanks to Rick

Stein’s culinary colonisation, it seems perfectly feasible to

imagine that Broadway could be inching towards its own

rebrand as Georgeway, with the hotel at its heart.

Has the king of retail always harboured dreams of moving

into hospitality? “Not really,” the 83-year-old tells me when I

check into his honey-stoned hotel. “But I’ve done so much in

retail all over the world. Now it’s time for something different.”

A hotel might not be the next career step for someone so

closely linked with the high street, yet this striking boutique

property – there are just ten immaculately turned-out bedrooms

– has Davies’s fingerprints all over it.

The name nods to the fashion houses he’s spent a lifetime

emulating; the staff uniforms feel straight off the shop floor.


“We want people to feel they’re coming into our home,” Arlene says. Clearly their

home is enviably polished; this place, in Arlene’s words, is all about “modern comfort

with a bit of sophistication. Not your typical Cotswold twee or Daylesford shabby chic.”

Females sport pink-green floral shirts echoing the hotel’s

palette and could easily pass for bestsellers, while males

wear green-striped shirts monogrammed with Davies’s

initials, inspired by one given to him by a long-ago

girlfriend. “I loved that shirt,” he reflects.

For Davies, the hotel is somewhere he can drop in, chat

to old friends and pick up new ones; after all, he’s lived just

outside Broadway for more than three decades and is a

familiar face in the village. “It’s all about the social side for

me – I love talking to people,” he says.

When the old doctor’s surgery came up for sale,

buying it for almost £2 million felt like a natural next step

for him. An almost four-year transformation ensued, with

much of the legwork carried out by his fourth wife, Arlene,

and designer Laura Cole.

“We want people to feel they’re coming into our

home,” Arlene says. Clearly, their home is enviably

polished; this place, in Arlene’s words, is all about “modern

comfort with a bit of sophistication. Not your typical

Cotswold twee or Daylesford shabby chic.”

The fashion influence is obvious the second you step

through the ancient doorway. Outside, it’s pure 17thcentury

Cotswolds; inside, it’s crisp modern styling with

stripped-back public spaces. There’s a bar with a curved

brass counter, modern art, a zigzag geometric rug on pale

wood floors, and a minimalist fine-dining restaurant.

A cosy snug is down the corridor, all deep sofas and

a fireplace big enough to roast a wild boar, while the ten

bedrooms – half a dozen upstairs, four in a new annexe –

are dressed as carefully as mannequins.

Mine, with exposed stone and beams and a slick

modern bathroom, has a TV tucked discreetly into a plush

fabric box at the foot of the bed, handmade Rothschild &

Bickers glass lights and woollen throws from Moon, one of

the UK’s last vertical mills (wherever possible, the décor is

British-made). My favourite feature is a cushioned window


seat framed by shutters covered in eye-catching handprinted

Rapture & Wright fabric.

It’s from here that I gaze over Broadway’s ultra-wide,

mile-long High Street to the thatched Cotswold Chocolate

Company and a distillery, with its Cotswold gin and whisky

a few doors away. Clearly, it’s time to explore.

As the lady in the upmarket charity shop tells me as I

pounce on a pair of sparkly flat shoes, “Broadway is the

kind of place to wander around, have a cup of tea and go

into its quaint shops.” There’s no Asda, Next or M&S in

sight; instead, there’s a pleasing jumble of independents.

You can browse gold-lined bowls in Catesbys: The Art

of Living, or admire a Veuve Clicquot champagne cooler in

Woodcock and Cavendish, a snip at £199.95. And if that

sounds too steep, The Man Cave has Jeremy Clarkson’s

Diddly Squat merchandise, including a tin mug for £16.50.

I nearly parted with £6 for one of the enticing pies

on show in The Broadway Deli, all creaky wooden stairs

and flagstone floors. But it’s late in the day, and there’s a

tasting menu with my name on it back at Moda, the aptly

named House of George’s restaurant.


I realise I’ve made the right call within minutes of

settling into my seat in the somewhat stark dining room

with its steamed bent-oak lampshades and glass wall

sculpture. The food is outstanding. James Wilson, formerly

of The Newt in Somerset and who spent his early career in

Scandinavia, has put together a truly memorable menu of

British dishes with Nordic influences.

He wins me over with the first mouthful: a crab

croustade canapé topped with sea herbs and local flowers.

Then comes a steady procession of clever dishes, such as

courgette and basil soup served with honey-milk bread

dusted in fennel pollen, and lobster with corn velouté. The

elderflower tart with sheep’s yoghurt, lemon curd and olive

oil is something I’d never have ordered unprompted, but it

turns out to be a superb surprise.

I’m not alone in my enthusiasm. A few tables away,

a group of locals are back for yet another visit. “We’re

surrounded by good places to stay,” says Alan Frimley,

who used to own The Broadway Deli. “The difference here

is the food. It’s the best in the village, as is the service.”

He nods towards Anthony Au Yeung, the everpresent

operations manager, formerly of L’Atelier de Joël

Robuchon in Hong Kong, who marshals an impressively

attentive team.

Yeung is there again at breakfast the next morning,

where I notice that the green napkins of the previous

evening have been changed for pink ones to mark the

new day. It’s one of many small flourishes, such as the

omnipresent HG monogram, which appears on everything

from the glass water bottles to the coat hangers in the

bedroom.

“A hotel is the same as retail really,” Davies says.

“It’s all about the detail.” When I mention that the sleek

restaurant chairs are far more comfortable than they look,

he beams. “I was very particular about the chairs. I’ve

been to places where they just aren’t comfortable.”

They’re equally restful out on the pavement terrace,

framed by lavender and bay trees, where I savour a superb

cappuccino while watching Broadway ease into the day.

It’s time for me to get moving too.

My first stop is the Broadway Museum & Art Gallery,

where I learn how this settlement, which grew up around

the wool trade, developed into a stagecoach stop on the

London–Worcester route. At the foot of Broadway Hill

(now the A44), it was somewhere to rest the horses before

the steep climb up the Cotswold escarpment.

Later, Broadway became a magnet for late 19thcentury

artists, writers and musicians. John Singer Sargent

BROADWAY @ ADOBE STOCK / IAN BARNES. BROADWAY SHOPS @ ADOBE STOCK / CHRIS LAWRENCE


‘The food is outstanding. James Wilson, formerly of The Newt in Somerset and

who spent his early career in Scandinavia, has put together a truly memorable menu

of British dishes with Nordic influences. He wins me over with the first mouthful...’

captured the dusk here in his painting Carnation, Lily,

Lily, Rose; Francis Davis Millet set up his studio at Abbots

Grange (now a romantic B&B) and painted Between Two

Fires there; and William Morris used the Gothic folly of

Broadway Tower atop the hill as a summer retreat with his

Arts and Crafts friends, including Dante Gabriel Rossetti.

It’s to this tower that I hike to next, first climbing the

Upper High Street (where Arlene Davies runs long-term

rentals), then heading along the Cotswolds Way to the

architectural jigsaw of turrets, balconies and gargoyles

looming over Capability Brown grounds and a deer park

(there’s a stag called Lancelot after him).

Dubbed the Lighthouse of Wisdom thanks to its

eminent guests, it apparently has a view of up to 16 English

counties of England from the top on a clear day – no

wonder it was a wartime watch post. The turreted roof is

also where Morris used to bathe (there was no plumbing).

Back in Broadway, another creative force made

his mark, beginning his career at The Lygon Arms with

its flagstones, fireplaces and warrens of rooms. When

Gordon Russell’s father bought the inn, Gordon restored

furniture in a loft in the yard. After the First World War,

he returned to design good-quality furniture that people

could actually afford – the Ikea of its era. His work is

celebrated in the small but absorbing Gordon Russell

Design Museum.

Meanwhile, The Lygon Arms continues as a hotel with

a colourful backstory: both Oliver Cromwell and Charles

I stayed here (on different occasions) during the English

Civil War, and Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor

conducted parts of their on-off romance within its walls.

History, art, design and now a new hotel… Broadway

has plenty going for it. And Mr Davies is far from finished

with his projects.

A beauty space is on the way, along with a kitchen

garden tucked behind the hotel and, eventually, a farm

and cookery school. Give it a little more time and you

might just find that the Georgeway moniker will stick.

B&B doubles cost from £250; houseofgeorge.uk


Outdoor

bathing

AT ITS BEST

From treetop decks to sea-facing balconies with unforgettable

views, British Travel Journal explores some of the UK’s top

outdoor tubs perfectly positioned for soaking under the stars.


1AMONG THE TREES

Hidden within woodland on Somerset’s

Stourhead Estate, The Bower Treehouse is a

secluded treetop hideaway designed for slow

living and serious soaking. Reached via a winding forest

path and raised above a gentle stream, the treehouse

sleeps two and feels blissfully removed from modern life.

Step outside onto the balcony deck and you’ll find the

highlight: a large, oval-shaped al fresco tub, perfectly

positioned for candlelit baths among the branches.

After a long soak, wrap up in robes and retreat indoors

to the warmth of the wood burner, or linger outside with

a glass in hand, listening to the water below. Treetop

bathing doesn’t get more special than this.

From £310 per night, canopyandstars.co.uk


2VALLEY VIEWS

Tucked away on Ireland’s Iveragh Peninsula,

just beyond Glenbeigh and close to the Ring

of Kerry, Limehouse Cottage is a stunning

hideaway for two, sitting high above a long valley

with uninterrupted views of mountains, water and sky.

At the end of the sloping garden lies Coomasaharn

Lake, framed by rugged peaks on three sides. This

picturesque place is designed for bathing outdoors;

brave a bracing dip in the lake, before easing into the

fairytale-esque outdoor bath, made from carved stone

and perfectly positioned to watch dusk settle over the

mountains. As the water steams and the light fades, it’s

hard to imagine a better place to soak.

From £1,095 for a short break, uniquehomestays.com


4TWO’S COMPANY

Set on a working sheep farm in rural

Warwickshire, Jesters is a shepherd’s hut stay

with a particularly special outdoor bathing

experience for two. Secluded and off-grid, it offers no

wi-fi and little distraction beyond birdsong, the soft

bleating of sheep and two show-stopping vintage tin

bathtubs, positioned side by side beneath the open sky.

There’s also an outdoor shower tucked among the trees

and a wood-fired sauna beside a wild swimming pond,

adding a luxurious edge to farm life. Spend the day

exploring the surrounding countryside, before returning

to soak and stargaze well into the evening.

From £110 per night, hillfarmglamping.co.uk

3SHEPHERDS HUT HEAVEN

this one’s for you. Set within the sprawling,

secluded Elmley Nature Reserve in North

If it’s complete nature immersion you’re after,

Kent, an array of cabins, huts and boutique bedrooms

are dotted across its unspoilt 3,300 acres. One of our

favourites is Vanellus, a simple, stylish shepherd’s hut with

an outdoor tub that’s hard to top. While inside delivers

all the creature comforts, from a luxurious king-size bed

to fluffy towels and bathrobes, it’s outdoors where the

magic happens. On the hut’s own private deck sits a

beautiful roll-top bath with far-reaching views across the

reserve. Keep your eyes peeled for owls, butterflies, hares

and more, all from the comfort of the tub.

From £185 per night, elmleynaturereserve.co.uk


5SUNKEN SERENITY

Nestled at the top of a hill in North

Yorkshire, with stunning, uninterrupted

views across the Vale of Pickering and

beyond, West Cawthorne is home to a collection of

beautifully restored historic barns and two unique

A-Frame cabins, hand-built on site. The latter sit

within their own wildflower meadow and have

a simple, pared-back aesthetic, with expansive

glass that cinematically captures the surrounding

countryside. Attached to each cabin is a sleek built-in

deck, complete with a fire pit and the real star of the

show, a sunken bath, perfectly placed for watching

the sun go down and the stars come up.

From £195 per night, northyorkshirehideaways.com


6A WELL-DESIGNED DIP

A stone’s throw from the North Cornwall

coast, Boslagen is a serene, beautifully

designed contemporary retreat that appears

to gently float on its own pond. Step over the footbridge

and you’ll discover an architecturally striking space for

two, opening onto a stone terrace that wraps around

the single storey building, and sits just over the water

below. Here, a sleek sit-up Japanese bath for two takes

centre stage, inviting long, luxurious soaks as the sun

rises over the pond. Inside, full-height glass frames

green and pleasant views, but it’s the floating terrace

and its tranquil outdoor bath that really shape the

experience, encouraging you to slow down and sink in.

From £699 for a three-night stay (seven nights from

£872), cornishgems.com

7GREEN AND SERENE

Tucked away in the chocolate-box Cotswolds

village of Barnsley, just four miles from Cirencester,

The PIG in the Cotswolds is a honey-hued 17thcentury

gem set within Rosemary Verey’s original Arts and

Crafts gardens. Hidden within the hotel’s fairytale grounds

lies the Secret Garden suite, a secluded retreat reached

through its own garden gate. Inside, there’s a freestanding

bath, a super-king bed and a cosy sitting area, but it’s

outdoors that this special suite really earns its name. Step

into the private walled garden, lush with greenery and

fragrant blooms, and you’ll find a vast, square-shaped

outdoor tub made from rustic tin. Pour yourself a herbinfused

cocktail from the in-room larder and settle in for a

long, lingering soak, inhaling the soothing, herbaceous scent

of the bespoke PIG by Bramley camomile and rosemary bath

range, surrounded by birdsong and flowers.

The Secret Garden suite starts at £545 per night, room only;

thepighotel.com


8DOUBLE TROUBLE

Set on the edge of Dartmoor National

Park, Windout Farm offers outdoor

bathing on a show-stopping scale.

Designed to sleep two, The Old Piggery has a

private, screened deck that opens out to rolling

hillside views and is home to not one, but two giant

roll-top bathtubs, made for soaking side by side

and taking it all in together. There’s also a bookable

sauna and a plunge pool close by, should you wish

to alternate steam and soak. Inside, the ancient

building has been gently modernised, but it’s the

outdoor tubs that steal the show, especially after a

day exploring the moors or nearby coast.

From £119 per night, sawdays.co.uk

BOWER TREEHOUSE & JESTERS HUT IMAGERY © CANOPY & STARS, LIMEHOUSE COTTAGE © UNIQUE HOMESTAYS, VANELLUS AT ELMLEY CREDIT REBECCA DOUGLAS PHOTOGRAPHY, NORTH YORKSHIRE HIDEAWAYS CREDIT ESME MAI (TOP IMAGE) DAVID CRITCHLEY (BOTTOM IMAGE),

BOSLAGEN © CORNISH GEMS, THE OLD PIGGERY © SAWDAY’S, PELAGOS © BOUTIQUE RETREATS, THE CROFT COLLECTIVE © KIP HIDEAWAYS, THE PIG IN THE COTSWOLDS SECRET GARDEN SUITE CREDIT HELEN CATHCART PHOTOGRAPHY.

9SEA LEVEL

Set above the seaside town of St Ives, with

sweeping views across St Ives and Carbis

Bay, Pelagos is a contemporary coastal

retreat designed to make the most of its remarkable

setting. Named after the Greek for ‘high seas’, the

house embraces its elevated position, with sparkling

blue sea stretching out in every direction. Inside, six

sleek bedrooms are spread across three levels, but it’s

one of the first-floor masters that steals the show. Step

onto the private balcony to discover a show-stopping

outdoor Victoria + Albert slipper bathtub, perfectly

positioned for indulgent soaks with uninterrupted sea

views. Keep your eyes on the water and you may even

spot dolphins, who are regular visitors to the bay.

From £2,494 for a long weekend or mid-week break,

boutique-retreats.co.uk

10

BOTHY BATHING

Designed as a peaceful, off-grid

sanctuary for reconnecting with the

landscape, The Croft Collective is a

place to slow down and enjoy the simple things. Set

on a working croft overlooking the Inner Hebrides on

Scotland’s wild west coast, views from the traditional

bothy stretch across the sea to Mull, Kerrera and

Lismore. The highlight is a rustic wood-fired outdoor

bathtub, set beneath open skies and surrounded by

land, sea and silence. Heat the water, sink in with a

single malt, and watch the light shift across the islands

as evening draws in.

From £210 per night, kiphideaways.com


MADE BY NATURE

crafted by Bramley

@bramleyproducts . bramleyproducts.com

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WHERE THE

land leads

Deep in the Somerset countryside,

Osip combines hyperlocal ingredients,

meticulous cooking and serene

interiors to create an experience

shaped by land and season.



Housed within the humble walls of a 17th-century

coaching inn, tucked away on a winding country

lane in rural Somerset, lies what has recently

been widely hailed as the best restaurant in

the UK. Muddy tractors rumble past, cows graze lazily

in a neighbouring field, and a faint whiff of apples and

woodsmoke lingers in the air. It’s not exactly what one

might expect from a dining destination of such acclaim,

which is precisely what makes it so compelling. This is

Osip: a Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant with rooms,

created by chef Merlin Labron-Johnson.

A rural upbringing in south Devon and an early

fascination with food led Merlin to leave school for

professional kitchens at the age of just 16. His formative

years were spent at Michelin-level restaurants across

Europe. However, it was his short stage at In de Wulf

in Belgium, under chef Kobe Desramaults, that had a

lasting impact, introducing him to a natural, hyper-local

style of cooking that would go on to define his own work.

He also cites the late Skye Gyngell as a formative farmto-fork

influence.

Despite earning his first Michelin star in London at just

24, Merlin craved a deeper connection to the land and a

more holistic approach to cooking. Somerset offered both.

In 2019 he opened Osip, where his ingredient-led menus,

rooted in seasonality and a strong sense of place, quickly

earned him critical acclaim.

I first visited Osip in 2021 in its original home: a tiny

site on the high street in Bruton, a quaint Somerset town

that attracts a food-loving, design-conscious crowd. It

earned a Michelin Star that same year, followed by a

Michelin Green Star in 2023. Understated yet incredibly

technical, the plot-to-plate dishes were delicious and

painstakingly refined, but it was clear that the space

wasn’t quite large enough to house Merlin’s ambitions.

In 2024, he moved Osip to a carefully restored 17thcentury

coaching inn on the outskirts of town, complete

with space for bedrooms and its own land. And so, as I

pulled up outside ‘Osip 2.0’, I was eager to see what this

new space had allowed to unfold.

A striking monochrome sign is the only clue that

something special is afoot. That, and a flaming brazier

next to an unassuming wooden front door. But as I crossed

the threshold, I left rural, rustic Somerset behind and

stepped into Merlin’s impeccably curated world.

Osip takes its name from Osip Mandelstam, a Russian

poet of the Soviet era. Mandelstam’s work is celebrated

for its commitment to clarity of expression and precision

of form, two principles that sit at the heart of the Osip

experience. The pared-back interiors are modern and

pleasingly uncluttered, yet comfortable and deeply


‘A defining part of Osip’s identity lies in its connection to the land, so I pulled on my

wellies... I ventured out with Merlin, who showed me around Dreamers – one of his

nearby plots that produces an abundance of fruit, nuts, flowers, vegetables and more.’

serene. Concrete floors are softened by hessian rugs

and sand-coloured sofas, while the building’s original

features, uneven lime-plastered walls, low ceilings and a

wonderfully wonky winding staircase, add character and

a palpable sense of the past. They blend seamlessly with

contemporary ceramics, dried flowers and mid-century

furniture.

Upstairs, there are five similarly tasteful bedrooms,

each inspired by the surrounding landscape. With exposed

beams, smooth oak flooring and locally crafted furniture

(some made from trees felled within a 10-mile radius), each

John Pawson-esque space offers a luxurious minimalist

aesthetic while conjuring a strong sense of place. There’s

not a television in sight. My room, named after local river

tributary ‘Pitt’, is a celebration of handcrafted tactility.

I wanted to run my hand along every smooth wooden

surface, nuzzle into the soft linen cushions and simply

absorb the natural comfort of it all.

A smattering of local treats had been carefully

arranged on a wooden table, including some excellent

medium-dry cider and a freshly baked cannelé with a rich,

custardy interior and a dark, caramelised crust, so perfectly

dense and squidgy, yet somehow light and ever so slightly

chewy. It was so delicious it stopped me in my tracks.

A defining part of Osip’s identity lies in its connection

to the land, so I pulled on my wellies. Farm tours are

available to all guests throughout the spring and summer

months and offer an easy and enlightening way to immerse

yourself in the local landscape and discover some of the

ingredients that will likely appear on the menu during your

stay. I ventured out with Merlin, who showed me around

Dreamers – one of his nearby plots that produces an

abundance of fruit, nuts, flowers, vegetables and more.

Guided by biodynamic principles and the natural rhythms

of the seasons, around 85% of the produce used in the

kitchen is grown by Osip. The entire team, from kitchen to

front of house, participate in a gardening rota. Plucking

and tasting a variety of herbs and flowers as we went,

Merlin’s intensity about the seasons, and his passion for

locality and sustainability, was palpable. I returned inspired

and ready for dinner.

I settled on a sofa between the textured walnut bar and

cosy wood burning stove and ordered a fig leaf negroni

– an Osip signature made with Campari infused with fig



leaves from the garden. A deliciously bold, herbaceous

concoction, it arrived garnished with a single, laser-cut disc

of fig leaf - a rugged ingredient transformed into something

immaculate. A tiny detail, but one that set the tone.

A small snack with almost architectural precision

arrived next: a mouthful of perfect pastry filled with

fermented carrot ketchup, pickled carrot and soft shavings

of Westcombe Dairy’s powerful red cheese. Soon, it was

time to move to the dining room, which is quite simply

breathtaking. A handful of stark white tables face the busy

open kitchen, the backdrop of which is floor-to-ceiling

glass, offering panoramic views across the garden and

countryside beyond. Here, every sense is plunged into the

local landscape.

Osip’s tasting menu evolves constantly, dictated

by whatever the land has to offer. Mostly home-grown

produce forms its backbone, supported by excellent

seafood and locally reared meat. It follows a loose,

seasonal format.

A plate of raw vegetables arrived first, which may

not sound like much, but at Osip it’s exceptional, in terms

of both flavour and presentation. Perfect slices of bright

purple carrot, pink radish and vivid green cucamelon pop

against a bright white plate, circling a smooth dollop of

house-smoked ricotta topped with local Caerphilly pesto

and a scattering of herbs and petals.

The next ten or so courses showed the same almost

obsessive attention to detail. There were no weak links;

each dish was extraordinary and confidently explained as

it arrived by either head chef Ciaran Brennan or another

member of the attentive front-of-house team.

A perfectly tempura’d parsnip came balanced on a

chunky ceramic plinth, resting on a black garlic aioli and

dusted with togarashi. On the side, a rich and deeply

comforting broth, made from roasted celeriac and smoked

tea, delivered an umami bomb with remarkable depth of

flavour.

A meaty cep mushroom, foraged earlier that day,

arrived floating in a yeasty parsnip foam, with a sweet

onion and cep marmalade hiding underneath. On the side,

a mind-blowing brioche made with fermented potatoes

accompanied by a perfect quenelle of heaven-sent butter

dusted with salty cep powder.

Butter-soft cubes of monkfish had been brined and

then braised with koji, drizzled with a smooth whey sauce

and silky slices of Roscoff onion, and paired with Wilding’s

lovely local yellow perry. And the textures of the ‘gâteau’

that followed will stay with me forever: paper-thin slices

of soft raw scallop carefully layered with slivers of turnip,

dotted with a smooth nutty cream and verjus gel.

The lobster course was a visual spectacle matched

by its flavours; several cloud-like dishes arrived, each

bearing different parts of the lobster, cooked in different

ways: tartare with elderflower vinaigrette, chunky tail with

Thai basil and fermented carrot, and the succulent claw

perfectly paired with a pumpkin satay sauce. Sweet, spicy

and utterly delicious.

A silky-smooth pumpkin sorbet signalled the start of

dessert, which included creamy rice pudding with marigold

sabayon and a burnt butter cracker dusted with fig leaf

powder. The cheese course was another memorable

moment: a fat, finger-sized slice of toasted malt loaf

soaked in local cider brandy, topped with oozing Bath Soft

Cheese.

OSIP PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVE WATTS


‘A plate of raw vegetables arrived first, which may not sound like much, but at Osip

it’s exceptional... perfect slices of bright purple carrot, pink radish and vivid green

cucamelon pop against a bright white plate, circling a smooth dollop of house-smoked

ricotta topped with local Caerphilly pesto and a scattering of herbs and petals.’

Throughout, I watched almost transfixed as the wellchoreographed

kitchen assembled each dish, wielding

pans, grilling to perfection and plating up with intense

concentration. As the experience drew to a close, the

kitchen clean down was just as impressive: every surface,

door and extractor fan was scrubbed until the space was

gleaming, and no evidence of dinner remained.

I moved next door for one final flourish by the fire:

immaculate petits fours, including juicy, jewel-like

blackberry and sea buckthorn pâte de fruits and

sensational sesame madeleines with white chocolate and

tahini, paired with a 20-year-old Somerset cider brandy,

a delightfully smooth expression of boozy, apple-laced

warmth.

The following morning, a bountiful farmhouse

breakfast was artfully arranged back in the dining room,

so I took my front-row seat once again, overlooking the

kitchen, gardens and rolling green fields beyond. Inspired

by old French auberges, Osip’s sophisticated morning

spread includes farm honey, buckwheat granola, hot

smoked trout, fresh local cheese, a ‘butter mountain’, and

more. I watched as the kitchen prepared for lunch, and as I

bit into a soft, still-warm pear and cardamom bun, a herd

of cows came gently lolloping into view on the horizon.

When I stepped back out onto the winding country lane

less than a day later, it felt as though I had been immersed

in Merlin Labron-Johnson’s world for far longer. Osip feels

deeply personal, and that’s because it is. Every bite and

every detail is part of a carefully curated and meticulously

crafted experience that invites you to slow down and truly

taste where you are, shaped by a simplicity so intentional it

borders on profound. This quiet corner of the countryside,

with its muddy tractors and lolloping cows, may be the

last place you would expect to find something quite so

exceptional, yet here it is.

Rooms at Osip start at £240 per night, including breakfast.

Tasting menu (available at lunch and dinner) £150 per person.

A reduced lunch menu is also available at £95 per person.

osiprestaurant.com


A CREATIVE BREAK FROM

Tate to tide

Nestled where the rolling hills meet the

turquoise sea, discover the unparalleled

luxury, wild beauty, and vibrant culture

of the St Ives and Carbis Bay coastline,

from chic galleries and museums to

quaint shops and inviting cafes.

Text and photography by Karolina Wiercigroch

Forget the idea of a single base – one of

2026’s biggest emerging travel trends

and the new way to explore a destination

is to ‘Hotel Hop’ staying at multiple

hotels in a single trip to experience different

parts of a region. There is no better place to

try this trend than on the magnificent Cornish

coastline, combining the luxury of Carbis Bay

with the artistic vibrancy of St Ives.

But to truly savour the magic of this inspiring

corner of Cornwall, you should try to visit out of

season. When the crowds have yet to arrive, and

the first signs of spring emerge, St Ives transforms.

It’s a wonderful time to visit, with a tranquil

atmosphere that invites a deeper appreciation

of the breathtaking coastal scenery. Without the

summer hustle, you’ll find a renewed sense of

space and freedom to roam the winding cobbled

streets and glorious beaches.

The local community takes on a relaxed,

welcoming pace, offering a real chance to linger,

chat, and uncover hidden gems with the help

of the people who know and love the area best.

Our first hotel stay was at the newest glamping

pod accommodation, POD St Ives, owned by

the Carbis Bay Estate, where all guests have full

use of the estate’s facilities, including the C Bay

Spa and a concierge service for everything from

in-lodge dining to bookings. A short drive from

Carbis Bay, these five glamping pods are nestled

among rolling hills on the outskirts of St Ives.

We stayed in one of the Spa PODs, which

has a lush outdoor shower and its own hot tub,

tucked away in a tranquil corner of our private

garden – Mezzanine PODs are smaller, but

still perfectly formed, with outdoor bathtubs.

Inside, there are two en-suite bedrooms with

fluffy duvets and a stylish living space with a


‘We passed the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden, and the

sleek building of Tate St Ives, leaving the bustling town behind, and followed

the coastal path to Man’s Head. There, we find a sea-view spot on the rocks for

a picnic of delicious goat cheese sandwiches from Yellow Canary Cafe.’

fully equipped kitchen. Our fridge had been stocked with

breakfast essentials: locally sourced ham and cheese, oaksmoked

salmon from St Ives Smokehouse, Cornish yoghurt

and butter, a glass bottle of fresh, unhomogenised milk from

Trink Dairy, a family farm just a mile away.

Freshly baked bread and pastries are delivered to the

pods every morning. We went straight to The Nest Spa

Garden for a few hot-and-cold sessions of steamy sauna

and icy plunges. Fully relaxed, we headed back to The Beach

Club restaurant for a sunset dinner.

The menu features locally sourced seafood, such as

steamed West Coast mussels and a daily catch of whole

grilled lemon sole, as well as excellent local wines, such as

the crisp Sparkling Seyval Blanc from Polgoon Vineyard near

Penzance, just a 20-minute drive from Carbis Bay.

Embracing this tranquil, out-of-season pace, we set out

along the shady stretch of the South West Coast Path from

Carbis Bay. St Ives is just a hilly walk away, and we wander

its whitewashed streets, passing chic galleries, artists’ studios

and trendy wine bars, warm air buzzing with clinking glass

and soft laughter.

We passed the Barbara Hepworth Museum and

Sculpture Garden, and the sleek building of Tate St Ives,

leaving the bustling town behind, and followed the coastal

path to Man’s Head. There, we find a sea-view spot on

the rocks for a picnic of delicious goat cheese sandwiches

from Yellow Canary Cafe. St Ives’ numerous beaches –

Porthminster, Bamaluz, Porthgwidden, Porthmeor – are

dotted with families playing in the sun, surfers catching soft

waves, and couples walking along the water.


After our picnic, we were drawn back into the heart of

St Ives, the town’s famous artistic pulse seeming to pull us

through its winding cobbled streets. This town has long

been an important and inspiring centre for artists, and as

we wandered, we realised its history – and world-famous

art – is everywhere you look.

As we explore this artistic hub, paying homage to

the legacies of artists like Ben Nicholson and Barbara

Hepworth at every turn, we also discover a profound

literary connection. The same magnificent coastline,

which inspired so many painters and sculptors, was also

the muse for the writer Virginia Woolf, as the striking

Godrevy Lighthouse directly inspired her seminal novel,

To the Lighthouse. This thoughtful history, where art and

literature meet, truly lingers in the air.

Our discoveries continued beyond the galleries. The

art truly extends to the vibrant, independent shops that fill

these charming streets. We found ourselves lingering in a

number of lovely pottery and thoughtful gift shops.

For those seeking stylish finds, we also discovered the

Salt Society Clothing Store, an independent concept store

and boutique, where one can easily treat themselves and

embrace that effortlessly chic coastal style.

The next morning, I was booked for wild-swimming

coaching in Carbis Bay. “Between nine and ten – still a tad

chilly after winter,” Sarah Walsh smiled and explained to me

when the first thing I asked was the water temperature. Is

that cold for her? “Here in Cornwall, the coldest I’ve swum in

was seven degrees. But last March at the Winter Swimming

World Championship in Tallinn, the sea temperature was 0.2

degrees.”

It was a warm, sunny day, rather uncharacteristic for

early April. In a couple of hours, Sarah told us, the golden

sand of Carbis Bay would be covered with picnic blankets

and sun loungers, evoking the finest days of Cornish

summers. In the morning, though, the 25 acres of the

Blue Flag beach belonged to us: an excited group of five

dry-robed figures. Sarah led us to the rocky beach edge,


gracefully carrying a large waterproof bag packed with

neoprene boots, fluorescent tow floats and brightly coloured

swim hats. “The hats are really important, they make you

much more visible in the water,” she explained. “Go in slowly,

take your time to get used to the temperature. Remember

to breathe steadily,” Sarah instructed, as we entered the

deep blue water. It was cold. We picked a reference point for

orientation – a cluster of trees on the opposite cliff edge –

and off we went. I focused on my breathing, slowly finding an

undulating breaststroke rhythm between the small, glittering

waves.

Half an hour later, I was sitting on the sun-drenched

terrace of The Beach Club restaurant, a cup of black

americano in my slightly cold hands. Over moist lemon

drizzle cake, Sarah told me about the benefits of cold

water swimming: “It’s a fabulous natural healing tonic.

Studies show that it can help with menopause symptoms,

mental health issues and dementia.” A certified open water

swimming coach, Sarah hosts wild swimming sessions at the

Carbis Bay Estate on Monday mornings. “I swim in the sea

every day of the year if the conditions permit. Sea swimming

has changed my life,” she told me.

In 2020, together with Sophie Reeves, Sarah started

the Perranporth chapter of The Bluetits Chill Swimmers – a

social swim community, founded by Sian Richardson in

Pembrokeshire. Gradually, Sarah set up Bluetit groups all

around Cornwall: “We now have over 20 000 swimmers

in Cornwall alone”. That doesn’t surprise me, as Cornwall –

with its turquoise bays, sheltered creeks and sandy coves – is

a wild swimmer’s paradise. Sarah organises open-water

swimming sessions across the county, from the secluded,

rocky cove of Nanjizal to boat adventures on the Helford

River. Her swims are planned around tides and conditions,

and there’s always cake. “I like to celebrate a good swim with

coffee and cake.”

We found plenty of time to relax at the C Bay Spa: a

tiered, landscaped spa garden with plenty of relaxing nooks

and far-reaching views of Carbis Bay. I swam a few laps in


the heated outdoor pool, taking in the stunning sea views.

There’s also a warm hydro pool with soothing water jets and

a spacious sauna cabin. Back at the Pod, as hotel guests, we

fired up the outdoor chiminea, toasted marshmallows, and

then watched the starry sky from our private hot tub.

Our next stop on the hotel hop was the Harbour Hotels

St Ives. The arrival, with the town’s famously winding roads

and a necessary valet service for parking, quickly gives way

to a breathtaking reveal. Perched high on the cliff edge, the

hotel is a celebration of its spectacular location, offering

soul-stirring, uninterrupted views over the glorious, golden

arc of Porthminster Beach – widely considered St Ives’s finest.

This focus on the view permeates the entire property,

with every room, terrace, and public space capitalising on

the enviable vista. The HarBAR is a dazzling expression of

modern seaside style, recently unveiled after a significant

upgrade. Its vibrant, almost revolutionary, palette of bold

colours – from clashing upholstery to striking contemporary

art – somehow coalesces into an exciting and dynamic space,

perfect for settling in with a signature local cocktail, which in

my case was a ‘Cornish Sling.’

The main restaurant adopts a more refined aesthetic

with the brand’s signature blues and whites, and celebration

of the sea menus, featuring everything from generous bowls

of steamed mussels and grilled mackerel to the hotel group’s

signature fish pie. The 52 rooms are equally well-judged,

designed to be both stylish and comfortable.

Our Superior Sea View Suite was pure escapism – a

haven of plush comfort with a super-king size bed and a

separate lounge, but the true focal point was the private

balcony, offering a soul-soothing panorama over the

whitewashed cottages and the shimmering expanse of St

Ives Bay. Thoughtful luxuries were laid out for us: a chilled

bottle of champagne, fluffy robes, a chocolate welcome, and

a complimentary local gin to toast the view. Sinking into this

private bliss was effortless.

Later, we retreated to the HarSpa to find an indoor

pool, hot tub, and fitness suite. But the ultimate surrender


to relaxation came with a delightful Temple Spa Driftaway

Massage, which did exactly what it promised: gently drifted

us into serenity.

Porthminster beach is accessed via a steep but

convenient walkway accessed from a gate at the bottom of

the garden. The path passes under the scenic branch railway

line, where you can hop on the single-track Great Western

Railway for breathtaking views across St Ives Bay to Godrevy

Lighthouse and beyond. Back on the beach at Porthminster,

the calm waters are ideal for families, and the Porthminster

Cafe is a must-visit for its acclaimed seafood linguine. At low

tide, you can walk across the glistening sand all the way to the

main St Ives harbour.

We decided to explore the eastern flank of St Ives Bay by

parking at Gwithian Towans, where we were immediately

tempted by Kabyn Cafe and their indulgent hot chocolate,

topped with a generous dollop of whipped cream, crumbled

Biscoff, mini fudge cubes and a stick of torch-flamed

marshmallows. We then followed the coastal path along

the golden beach and glistening rock pools, getting lost in

the grassland dunes, and admiring the white lighthouse on

Godrevy Island. We even spotted a grey seal colony, lounging

out in the sands of Mutton Cove.

Our final stop on the ‘Hotel Hop’ was at St Ives’ iconic

Pedn Olva. Built dramatically onto the granite rocks

overlooking Porthminster Beach, the hotel’s name, Cornish

for ‘look out headland’, perfectly describes its spectacular

position. Our deluxe sea view room, with its coastal-inspired

decor and large windows, made us feel as if we were at the

water’s edge, entirely enveloped in the mesmerising, endless

blue. To truly savour the hotel’s atmosphere, we indulged

in their famous Sunday roast, tucking into a tender roasted

Striploin of West Country beef, with pork and sage stuffing

and a harissa sweet potato, chickpea and pumpkin seed

bake – a meal that was, frankly, nothing short of incredible.

The next morning, we enjoyed a delicious full Cornish

breakfast, while still soaking up those glorious views,

admiring the fishing boats and the famous, ever-shifting

quality of light. On the last day, we drove to Penzance for

some more cold-water exposure. Opened in 1935, the year of


King George V’s Silver Jubilee, the Jubilee Pool is the largest

sea pool in the UK. Built upon a traditional bathing spot at

the Battery Rocks near the harbour, this beautiful Art Deco

lido was cleverly designed to cope with the ferocity of the

Cornish seas. The salty water in the main pool is usually

slightly warmer than the sea, and the adjacent geothermal

pool is heated to 35 degrees by the lido’s own geothermal

well. I recalled Sarah’s tips as I entered the pool, going in

slowly and remembering to breathe. Braving the chilly water

(the temperature was 13 degrees), I considered warming up

in the poolside sauna, then, as Sarah suggested, celebrating

with coffee and a slice of cake.

Stays at POD St Ives, podstives.co.uk, start from £295 per night

B&B; Stays at Harbour Hotel St Ives, harbourhotels.co.uk, start

from £225 per night B&B; Rooms at Pedn Olva, pednolva.co.uk,

start from £145 per night B&B. Carbis Bay swim sessions with

Sarah Walsh cost £15 per person and are open to all. To join one

of Sarah Walsh’s swimming adventures around Cornwall, visit

cornishkelpie.co.uk.


A LITTLE

Scottish

nook

Fife’s East Neuk on the Scottish coast has all the trimmings

of a Cornish fishing village: excellent restaurants, awardwinning

pubs, organic farms and top producers and crafters,

all brimming with creativity – just without the crowds.

Text by Emma Henderson

I’m walking along narrow and windy

streets flanked by former fishermen’s

cottages with matching brightly painted

window frames and doors. The salty sea

air is blowing towards me as I’m heading

down towards the beach.

It may sound like a picturesque scene

in a pretty coastal Cornish village, but that

couldn’t be geographically further from where

I actually am – at the opposite end of the UK,

in Scotland. More specifically, I’m in the East

Neuk of Fife, a pocket of Scotland made up

of a handful of coastal towns and villages

like Elie, Anstruther, Cellardyke, Earlsferry, St

Monans, Pittenweem and Crail. It’s the latter

(the furthest east) where I’m starting my trip in

the East Neuk – a place so beautiful that King

James VI described the coastline as a “fringe

of gold”.

Neuk means ‘a little corner’, and this really

feels like a little Cornish corner of Caledonia,

as if it has been plucked from the south west

and dropped here. Though there might be

more than 560 miles between here and the

north Cornish coast where I grew up, there

are many Celtic parallels between them. Both

have a long history of agriculture and fishing,

dramatic coastlines and scenery, wide open

beaches, coastal cottages and paths, as

well as an appeal to second-home owners,

especially from Glasgow and Edinburgh (it’s

just a 1-hour 15-minute drive from Edinburgh

airport).

Crail’s roots are firmly in fishing, though like

many villages of this ilk around the UK, fleets

have dramatically dwindled, and it leans more

into tourism, but the harbour is still home to a

handful of creel (pot) fishing boats.

Arriving early before our lunch booking,

we have a quick pitstop at the Crail Harbour

Gallery and Tearoom, a 17th-century

fisherman’s cottage with original exposed

stonewalls, beams and flagstones, which has

views over the Firth of Forth and the North Sea.

Away from the water’s edge, much of

the main stretch of the village’s buildings are

still painted in pretty pastel hues, too, which

gives the village a jovial feel. It’s also known

for Crail Pottery, a family-run business that

began in 1965.

The shop sits above the tiny studio and

outside the courtyard displays many of its

brightly coloured wares of pots, jugs, mugs

and terracotta garden planters, and I’m

regretting travelling with such a small carry-on

bag with no spare space.


‘I’m in the East Neuk of Fife, a pocket of Scotland made up of a handful of

coastal towns and villages... I’m starting my trip in the East Neuk – a place so

beautiful King James VI described the coastline as a “fringe of gold”.’

Lunch is at The Shoregate, which was refurbished a few

years ago by owners Nicholas Frost and Damon Reynolds,

but the site has been home to varying forms of an inn for more

than a century. So popular is it here that there’s not enough

room for us to stay, which is probably because the month I visit,

the restaurant has just been added to the Michelin guide. Each

of the colour-filled rooms forgoes the chintzy seaside feel, as is

too often associated with waterside accommodation. Instead,

cosy rooms have individual creative palettes, huge jewelcoloured

headboards and vibrant artworks and textiles, plus

most have views of the sea.

On the menu are dishes that feel familiar, but different

and highly seasonal, like creamy sweetcorn mousse, with

whipped feta and crystalised walnut with a zing of lime. And

very generously sized mains like slow roast pork belly, pulled

shoulder kromeski (croquette) and black pudding that’s as

indulgent as it sounds.

Post lunch, it’s onwards to Elie, where we’re staying in

a townhouse, which again has views of the sea. The small

town has been named one of the UK’s best places to live

more times than you can shake a stick at. As well as being

a second-home destination, the seaside town’s popularity

is also partly due to a shift in priorities after the pandemic,

when more people left cities, making the East Neuk one of

the UK’s top destinations to move to.

Part of that pull is undeniably the beaches alongside

its proximity to a city, but it also rode the rise of coldwater

swimming and all its benefits. And one of Fife’s best

features is its love of a tidal pool, and it is home to three

of them.


So, bright and early the following day, it was time for a

dook (a Scottish word for a dip) at Cellardyke Tidal Pool,

about 20-minutes drive west – a vast outdoor sea pool,

which also reminds me of Bude’s sea pool in Cornwall,

that’s built into the cliffs. Cellardyke is pretty large at about

95m long, and 23.5m wide, and after a rather slow entry,

and taking a minute (or five) to acclimatise to the not-so

balmy 14°C, soon I was able to do a few lengths and began

to understand that invigorating feeling that gets so many

people hooked on cold-water swimming.

To warm up, we headed to Bowhouse, a hub for local

independent businesses created in 2017 by Toby Anstruther

(the owner of the Balcaskie Estate, on which Bowhouse

sits) as he wanted to celebrate the area’s excellent produce,

where it’s made.

Inside former farm buildings, Bowhouse is home to

a number of permanent businesses, plus a monthly big

weekend market, creating a community destination that

helps local people access excellent-quality local food.


There’s also Bowhouse butchery for the estate’s rarebreed

and pasture-fed livestock like Red Aberdeen Angus

cattle and Tamworth pigs that live outside all year round,

which is open to the public too. As is The Mill at Bowhouse,

which mills organic, nutrient-dense whole-grain wheat and

rye flour, which it sells to the public and uses in its own breadmaking

here, too.

The idea is to give small businesses a space, help

them grow and be seen here, so they don’t feel they need

to be closer to a city. It quickly became a big part of the

community, drawing fellow creatives and producers here.

It’s a wonderfully designed ecosystem of suppliers, chefs and

producers all on one site.

One of them is Futtle, a microbrewery (that’s actually

not so micro anymore), owned by Lucy Hine and Stephen

Marshall, who produce excellent craft beers, sell fine cider

(a world away from sugary mass-produced drinks), and

regularly host gigs, too. There’s also Baern cafe, owned

by Hazel Powell and Giacomo Pesce, who use the bread

milled just steps from the cafe, and have chunky focaccia

sandwiches, creative dishes like beetroot and bramble soup,

punchy coffee and decadent pastries and sweet treats, which

unsurprisingly, all sell out very quickly.

Over in Stocks Kitchen, owned by chef Amy Elles (who

previously ran Elie’s Harbour Cafe and worked in the three-

Michelin-starred The Fat Duck and London’s Moro), there’s

a brand new cooking school for workshops and an excellent

shop and deli with firm foodie store cupboard favourites.

We visit just before the school opens, but get a literal

taste of Amy’s skills, with beef from the Balcaskie estate

with local chanterelles, creamy potato salads dressed

in dill, bright green leaves peppered with edible flowers

and incredibly fresh courgettes and tomatoes from the

regenerative-farmed East Neuk Market Garden. It’s just

outside and is run by husband and wife, Connie Hunter and

Tom Booth, who also sell veg boxes to locals.

Back in Elie, to make the most of the September

sunshine, we have a quick pint (local, of course) at The

CRAIL HARBOUR © ADOBE STOCK / GIUSEPPE MASCI. THE SHOREGATE, CRAIL © ASHLEY

COOMBES / EPIC SCOTLAND LTD. SANDY BEACH IN ELIE, EAST NEUK © ADOBE STOCK


Ship Inn pub outside, overlooking the beach. “This would

be great for cricket,” says one of our group. Knowing little

about the sport, I think about it, and considering the vast

open (and flat) sandy beach sprawled out in front of us,

I see exactly what he means. It’s not until we get up to

leave and see behind us there’s a huge cricket scoreboard

– clearly, we were on point. It turns out it’s the only pub in

Britain to have a cricket team and beach pitch.

Then, just five minutes away, it’s time for dinner at the

Kinneuchar Inn, a 17th-century picturesque village pub, with

one of the most unusual pub signs I’ve ever seen: two people

with curling stones, pointing to the local tradition of curling

on the nearby Loch Kilconquhar when it freezes over.

It’s run by James Ferguson and Alethea Palmer, (who

formerly worked at London’s Rochelle Canteen) and since

it opened in 2019, it’s been well-loved for its excellent

menus, local sourcing (much of it comes from Balcaskie and

Bowhouse producers), and along with many accolades,

The Good Food Guide just listed the pub as its second best

pub in the whole of the UK. Dishes include Pittenweem surf

clams with roast tomatoes, fregola and basil, or deep-fried

monkfish cheeks with aioli. While mains include roast brill,

grilled courgettes, chickpeas, monk’s beard and mojo verde,

or grilled lamb leg with French beans, tropea onion and

anchovies. It’s hearty, imaginative and often Med-inspired.

As we finish off sharing multiple dishes of almost

everything on the menu, we end with a lesson in whisky

by a whisky writer in our group, no less, after she learned I

don’t really like the Scottish spirit, which apparently seemed

sacrilege to her. My education began with a quick crash

course in whisky flavour profiles and tasting, and then my

task was to identify four whiskies after sipping each. Getting

them almost right was enough of a win for a newbie like me,

and it gave me a greater appreciation of the spirit. And of

course, it reminded me of exactly where I was – a very special

little nook, firmly in Scotland

Bowhouse (bowhousefife.com) is open daily with markets on the

second full weekend of each month. Check the individual business

Instagram accounts for their openings; Shoregate (theshoregate.

com) is open Weds-Sun; Kinneuchar Inn (kinneucharinn.com) is

open in the spring between Wednesday-Sunday.


Stay up-to-date digitally: Scan for travel news ·

ACROSS

9 Sit upon (7)

10 Carbis Bay retreat (7)

11 Operated by liquid (9)

12 Choose to participate (3,2)

13 Kerry cottage near

Macgillycuddy’s Reeks (9)

15 Chat up (3,2)

16 THE PIG in the Cotswolds is

just four miles from here (11)

20 Premium bond selector (5)

22 TV show which ran from

November 1963 to May 2025,

and could return (6,3)

24 Pint-sized (5)

25 Gut feelings (9)

26 Natural area at Elmley? (7)

27 Kernel (7)

DOWN

1 Upmarket Cotswold Manor (7)

2 Once in a blue moon (6)

3 Worker who turns things white

(8)

4 Concisely expressed (4-6)

5 Crude-oil cartel (1,1,1,1)

6 Wash with a lot of water (6)

7 Rabble-rouser (8)

8 Dopey (7)

14 Hitting the gym (10)

16 Paddle pusher (8)

17 Bathing suit type (3-5)

18 Shepherd’s hut with two

outdoor bathtubs (7)

19 Bewitch (7)

21 Gloomy donkey (6)

23 The Wider --- Vision rewilding

project (6)

25 This “Saint” appears in

Cornwall and Cambridgshire (4)

For a chance to win a prize send a picture of your completed crossword,

or email a list of the answers; crossword@britishtraveljournal.com

The final word...

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Answers to our previous crossword (Autumn/Winter 2025 Edition) Across: 1 Ears, 4 Daylesford, 9 Itchen, 10 Anaconda, 11 Tramp, 12 Stingrays, 14 Doubloon, 17

Sark, 20 S s r i, 21 Whatsits, 23 Got across, 26 Griff, 29 Barnabys, 30 Ty nant, 31 Diocletian, 32 Boys. Down: 2 Anterooms, 3 Soham, 4 Dene, 5 Yeast, 6 Elaine, 7

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