TravelWorld International Magazine Spring 2026

SPRING 2026

Erick, Oklahoma

travelworld

INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE

The Magazine Written and Photographed by North American Travel Journalists Association Members

Letter from the Editor

TravelWorld International Magazine

is the only magazine that showcases

the member talents of the

North American

Travel Journalists Association

SPRING

2026

travelworld

INTERNATIONAL

MAGAZINE

Perhaps in this uncertain world we baby boomers long for what seemed

stable in times gone past! The honky tonk music of Roger Miller said

anyone could be a "King of the Road"! While the famous Route 66 was

a modern highway that could take you across the entire country, with

the advent of high-speed, nonstop freeways, it nearly became obsolete!

But it is making an amazing comeback as a unique and nostalgic tourist

destination. You can read all about it in four fabulous parts by NATJA's

own Terri Marshall and Vanessa Orr. See Travel World 2025 Fall and

Winter Issues and this Spring Issue for Part 3!

NATJA writers carry this "King of the Road" wanderlust to all corners

of the world! In this issue we travel to the Carribbean, studying and

enjoying chocolate in St.Lucia and witnessing wonderful, sustainable

tourism practices in beautiful Aruba.

We travel to Abu Dhabi where the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque's

magnificence is on the scale of the exquisitness of the Taj Mahal!

In Vietnam an exciting dining and social adventure began ... until it

was cut short by a slip of fate due to our author falling and breaking her

arm ... well mended by now we hope!

We learn about Perpignan, France, a little-known city of colors, sunshine,

and surprises around every corner. Then there's fun for music lovers at

the Vancouver Wine and Jazz Festival and also the Dominican World

Creole Music Festival! But one can always relax

in Amador County, home of Sutter Creek of the

famous California Gold Rush. Fine wine and

peaceful vineyards are always a great destination!

Group Publisher:

Publishers:

VP Operations:

Editor in Chief:

NATJA Publications

Helen Hernandez &

Bennett W. Root, Jr.

Yanira Leon

Joy Bushmeyer

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS:

Melissa Adams

Daniele Auvray

David Greenberg

Susan Greenberg

Ava Kabouchy

Terri Marshall

Vanessa Orr

Doreen Pendgracs

Cori Solomon

Rosalind Stefanac

Kateryna Topol

DMO CONTRIBUTORS:

Kansas Tourism

Visit Indiana

Spring

Getting Our Kicks on Route 66 - Part 3 (Chandler, OK to Gallup, NM) 6

Vanessa Orr & Terri Marshall

Why St. Lucia Should be on the Radar of Every Chocolate Lover 14

Doreen Pendgracs

PHO REAL: How I Survived Breaking My Arm in Vietnam 19

Melissa Adams

The Architectural Splendor of the UAE: Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque 27

Daniele Auvray

Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort, Aruba - Sustainable Tourism Leader 30

Kateryna Topol

6

14

Enjoy!

Joy Bushmeyer,

Editor in Chief

Cover Photo

Editorial /Advertising Offices:

TravelWorld International Magazine

3579 E. Foothill Blvd., #744

Pasadena, CA 91107

Phone: (626) 376-9754 Fax: (626) 628-1854

www.travelworldmagazine.com

19

2

Cover Photo provided by Vanessa Orr

While traveling through Oklahoma, Vanessa Orr,

cruising with her traveling buddy, Terri Marshall, on their

tremendous Route 66 road trip (see Part 3 of their 4-part

series in this TWI issue), stopped to take this photo of a

mural of the famous singer/songwriter Roger Miller! His

hits became so famous that the town of Erick, Oklahoma

dedicated a museum to him and re-named that section of

Route 66 after him! His greatest and most widely known,

chart-topping hit came out in 1965, "King of the Road!"

Volume 2026.01 Spring 2026. Copyright ©2026

by NATJA Publications, Inc. All rights reserved.

Reproduction in whole or in part without written

permission is prohibited. Advertising rates and

information sent upon request. Acceptance of

advertising in TravelWorld International Magazine

in no way constitutes approval or endorsement by

NATJA Publications, Inc., nor do products or services

advertised. NATJA Publications and TravelWorld

International Magazine reserve the right to reject

any advertising. Opinions expressed by authors

are their own and not necessarily those of Travel

World International Magazine or NATJA

Publications. TravelWorld International Magazine

reserves the right to edit all contributions for clarity

and length, as well as to reject any material submitted,

and is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts.

This periodical’s name and logo along with the

various titles and headings therein, are trademarks

of NATJA Publications, Inc. PRODUCED IN U.S.A.

227

30

3

SPRING

2026

travelworld

Spring

INTERNATIONAL

MAGAZINE

Perpignan: France's Little-Known City of Colors and Sunshine 34

Ava Kabouchy

Vancouver Wine and Jazz Festival 40

David & Susan Greenberg

Amador County: A Gold Rush Legacy in Wine Country 42

Cori Solomon

Dominica During the World Creole Music Festival 48

Rosalind Stefanac

34

40

TO THE

STORYTELLERS

42

48

In Kansas, you’ll find a place where history and culture come alive. Where

traditions are passed down through the art of storytelling. Where every story

preserves the state’s rich cultural heritage and identity.

The Kansas experience is a salute to the legends. To the dancers. To the dreamers.

To the stars.

Reclaim your vacation in Kansas.

Start planning at TravelKS.com

5

GETTING

OUR

KICKS ON

ROUTE 66

PART THREE

Chandler, OK

to

Gallup, NM

Follow us all the way to Santa Monica, CA,

in the next TravelWorld International issue!

Terri: Hey, Ness, want to try some

Elf Elixir, Alien Snot, Fungal Fruit

or Worm Ooze? Or maybe some

of this stuff that I think is labeled

in Japanese — that could be a fun

surprise!

Vanessa: Not unless you want to

make pit stops every mile from

here to Oklahoma City.

Terri: Point taken. One regular

Diet Coke it is.

Public service announcement:

Parents traveling with kids,

take heed! Drive past, or your

kids are going to be riding a

sugar high all the way to Santa

Monica.

Oklahoma obviously believes

in hydration, because the next

roadside giant was a huge milk

bottle on top of the Milk Bottle

Grocery Building, which was

built in Oklahoma City in the

1930s. (The sign was added in

1948.) We enjoyed a leisurely

and swear word-laden tour of

the area because we happened to

arrive during a marathon and a

number of roads were blocked

off, which did, however, allow

us to check out the Oklahoma

City Capitol Building (the

only capitol on Route 66).

There are some pretty cool

murals in this western part of

the state, especially in Yukon,

which is home to a number of

public art pieces. We checked

out a historic mural of the

Chisholm Trail Crossing at

Main and 4th street, where

it looks like the cattle are

actually coming out of the

wall, and a vibrant Yukon

Sunset mural on West Main.

Terri

Story and

Photos by

Vanessa Orr

and

Terri Marshall

Vanessa

OKLAHOMA

After enjoying a lovely evening in the Lincoln Motel Inn in

Chandler, Oklahoma, where we took advantage of the proudly

advertised micro fridge and cable TV, we headed off to finish the

400 miles of Route 66 that runs through the Sooner State.

Chisolm Trail mural

Photo by Terri Marshall

First, we took a gander at the Round Barn in Arcadia, Oklahoma,

which is, in fact, both round and red. A more colorful stop lay

ahead at Pops 66, marked by the world’s largest pop bottle, a

66-foot-tall LED neon structure that signals a truly amazing

road trip mecca. The glass walls of this convenience store (and

every available surface) are covered with roughly 700 varieties of

sparkling soda bottles lined up in every color of the rainbow. Even

someone who had crawled, dying of thirst through the desert to

get there, would have to admit it’s a little much.

You can't miss the turnoff for Pops 66.

Photo by Vanessa Orr

Pops 66 has more than 700 sodas on display.


Yukon Sunset mural in Yukon, OK.


6

7

Roger Miller is the King of the Road in OK.

Needing sustenance, we stopped at Lucille’s

Restaurant in Weatherington, Oklahoma, which pays

tribute to Lucille Hamons, known as the “Mother of

the Mother Road.” Her original restaurant, located

in Hydro, was known for its hospitality to Route 66

travelers, and today’s version of the restaurant is just

as welcoming.

In Erick, Oklahoma, we spotted a mural dedicated to

hometown boy and country icon ROGER MILLER,

famous for his hit “King of the Road,” which

seemed apropos to our journey. While Miller was

not actually born in Oklahoma, he moved there as


a baby, and the town paid tribute to him by naming

this section of Route 66 the Roger Miller Memorial

Highway.

The highway changes names again in Texola, the last

town before you cross the border into Texas. Outside

this ghost town, which has about 36 residents,

stands a Will Rogers memorial plaque. In 1952, this

portion of the road was rededicated to Rogers, who

is remembered on the plaque as a Humorist, World

Traveler, and Good Neighbor. It notes that Route 66

was the first road he traveled in a career “that led him

straight to the hearts of his countrymen.”

Water Hole #2 in

Texola, OK

But we never

found #1

Photo by Terri

Marshall

Welcome to Texas


YEE-HAW,

WE’RE IN TEXAS!

You know you’re entering Texas when you see a sign plastered with

bullet holes as well as stickers. Here, the trip started getting kitschy

again, and we knew we were in the right place when we saw the

Elvis painting and the licking cow mural in Shamrock, Texas.

We almost lost Terri at the Tower Building, a stunning tribute

to Art Deco architecture. Erected in the early ’30s, this former

gas station/diner is a must-stop, though I probably should have

braked more slowly to prevent her from plummeting through the

windshield.

Terri: What the hell? Were you about to hit something?

Vanessa: Nope. Just saw one of the most beautiful

buildings I’ve ever seen in my life. Look at the green and

cream colors, the geometric detail, the “U Drop In” sign!

Terri: I don’t think they meant that literally!

This licking cow greeted us

in Shamrock, TX.


Though it’s no longer a working café, you can enter the building

(and one of us — guess who? — had to actually be dragged back

out). Behind the Tower is a tribute to radio host and songwriter

Bill Mack, the Midnight Cowboy, who was born in Shamrock and

whose show was a favorite of long-haul truckers.

Just look at this Art Deco beauty!


We did drop in to the Art Deco

Tower Building in Texas.


8

9

Once Terri was convinced to get back into

the car, we headed on to Amarillo and

the Bug Ranch, which is a smaller version

of the famed Cadillac Ranch. We don’t

know why people in Texas like to bury

cars vertically in the sand and then spray

paint them, but it is an eye-catching stop,

especially as most of the cars had cattle

horns mounted on top.

Welcome to Amarillo, Texas


The Bug Ranch in Amarillo TX ... Just Because


There were also plenty of kitschy roadside

attractions, including at our overnight

stop — the Big Texan in Amarillo.

Decorated to look like the façade of

an old Texas town, the hotel has an

unmissable neon cowboy in front, along

with a massive horned cow and some

kind of lizard wearing cowboy boots. A

sign notes that the Texan added the lizard

because they didn’t have a dinosaur. Go

figure.

Opened in 1960, this Texas mecca

includes the Texan Steak Ranch, where

diners are challenged to eat a 72-ounce

steak with sides (one dinner roll, three

fried shrimp, one baked potato, one

dinner salad) in an hour. If they succeed,

the meal is free. A countdown clock keeps

track above the raised dais where they eat.

And eat. And eat.

When you don't have a

dinosaur...you make a lizard.


Terri: It says here that for men, the success rate

is 1 in 10, but for women it’s 1 in 2. I think we

should try.

Vanessa: You first.

Terri: Maybe I’ll just get something off the menu.

Vanessa: Yeah, try the mountain oysters; it’s

advertised as a Texas “sak” lunch.

After a night in a western-themed room, we headed off

to Cadillac Ranch, because you can’t go through Texas

without looking at more buried cars. Unfortunately, the

cars were mired in mud, which made it hard to add our

spray-paint artistry to them, though we did our best.

Terri then decided to give her extra spray paint to a kid

at the ranch, which I’m sure his mother appreciated —

once she found out.

Welcome to the BIG Texan in Amarillo

The agony of defeat

at The Texan



Library Bar and

Grill in Albuquerque

NM. What a brilliant

idea, unfortunately

it was closed

during our visit!

Photo by

Terri Marshall

A muddy day at Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo


When in Rome...or Amarillo.


Adrian, Texas, is the midpoint of Route 66, which you

know because it’s written on the water tower. At this

point, I was sure we’d been on the road for a million

days, but it was only Day 5, according to Terri, who I

think might have had some road-induced amnesia.

Adrian, Texas

We're halfway there!

Photo by

Terri Marshall

10

11

Classic Blue Swallow Motel in Tucumcara,

New Mexico Photo by Terri Marshall

The oldest house in the US

is in Santa Fe, NM.


San Miguel Chapel in Santa Fe

Photo by Terri Marshallrr

When you ring this bell,

it means you'll be coming

back to Santa Fe!


Route 66 Mural in Santa Rosa NM


Another new state,

NEW MEXICO!

Heading into New Mexico, the western Route 66 vibe

got stronger as we passed Teepee Curios, the Palomino

Motel, the Roadrunner Lodge and the Blue Swallow

Motel. Vintage cars were parked everywhere, and

though we weren’t able to book a stay in a massive

teepee, that’s definitely on our list for the future. We

ended the day at the Silver Moon Café in Santa Rosa,

New Mexico, enjoying Mexican food at this Route 66

landmark eatery.

We meandered through the hills to Santa Fe where

we visited the oldest house in the United States, circa

1646, as well as San Miguel Chapel, the oldest church

structure in the United States. Inside the mission walls,

we stopped to ring the 780-pound, 3.5-inch-thick San

Jose Bell with the rubber mallet provided. Legend says

the ringer will return to Santa Fe, which we certainly

hope is true. We also visited the Cathedral Basilica of

St. Francis of Assisi, where we bought some holy water

to help us through the rest of the trip (it’s always good

to be prepared).

The Oldest House in Santa Fe NM


Loved the chilies

adorning the

lightposts in Santa Fe.


Route 66 Welcome in Grants New Mexico


Contental Divide in New Mexico, WooHoo!


We crossed the Continental

Divide in Grants, New Mexico,

at an elevation of 7,295 feet.

Surprisingly, there wasn’t any

kind of big ceremony for us

— just a covered wagon that

marked the site.

In Gallup we visited El Rancho,

a historic hotel where numerous

celebrities stayed, including

John Wayne and Lucille Ball.

Advertised for its “Charm of

Yesterday, Convenience of

Tomorrow,” all of the rooms are

named for different stars, and

the lounge area features signed

photos from many of these

luminaries.

While Gallup is renowned for

its neon, unfortunately, we went

through during the day, so that

means another trip back to see

what all the fuss is about. But to

make it back to Vanessa’s now

very harried dogsitter, we had

to stay on track.

Welcome to Gallup, NM!


NEXT ISSUE,

THE FINAL

LEG

_________

JOIN US FOR

ARIZONA TO

SANTA MONICA!

12

13

Why Saint Lucia

Should be on the Radar

of Every Chocolate Lover

Story and Photos by

Doreen Pendgracs

The enticing beachfront beauty

of Calabash Cove.

ST. LUCIA HAS THE

IDEAL COCOA/CACAO

GROWING CLIMATE

Its geographical location at 14

degrees north of the equator

(between St. Vincent and

Martinique) makes St. Lucia an

ideal destination for visitors seeking

tropical bliss. Add that to the natural

elements of rich volcanic soil and a

perfect amount of sun and tropical

rains to provide St. Lucia with

just the right climate for growing

high-grade

cacao — the

primary

ingredient

for making

its own

share of the

world’s finest

artisanal

chocolate.

The Trinitario hybrid

cacao is the dominant

variety in St. Lucia.

RESEARCH THE WIDE ARRAY

OF IMPRESSIVE PROPERTIES

BEFORE BOOKING

Hats off to British chocolate-making

company Hotel Chocolat for being the

first international chocolatier to grow cacao

on St. Lucia. Hotel Chocolat takes it to the

next level by producing its award-winning,

world-class artisanal chocolate on the

island with the cacao it has grown there.

We stayed at RABOT HOTEL (formerly

called Hotel Chocolat Rabot Estate). This

is a contemporary boutique hotel where

we experienced the magnificence of farmto-table

cocoa cuisine featuring banana

daiquiris, fabulous cuts of Angus beef

served with chocolate port sauce, and cocoa

nibs (tiny chunks of roasted cocoa beans)

used as the primary seasoning in the on-site

Rabot Restaurant and the Cacao Bar. The

Adding roasted cocoa nibs to the

delicious offerings at Boucan Restaurant

at the Rabot Hotel took everything

to an elevated level of flavor.

Rabot Hotel also offers chocolate spa services and immersive, highly recommended

Project Chocolat tree-to-bar and bean-to-bar tours. Though not beachfront, Rabot’s

jungle location keeps the chocolate experience as the primary reason for choosing

this particular property as the base for your St. Lucian visit.

The multi-award-winning Jade Mountain

Resort is another stunning property where

the individual guest accommodations are

referred to as sanctuaries. Each has a private

infinity pool and an open-air concept

offering you mesmerizing views of the Piton

Mountains. I can honestly say that I wept

with joy when our major-domo (butler)

brought us to Sanctuary JE2, as I’d never

seen anything like it.

14

As a chocolate lover, researcher and journalist/author, I’ve

spent the greater part of a quarter century traveling the globe

in search of the best chocolate travel destinations. St. Lucia

— or Sainte-Lucie, as it’s known by the locals — pushes all the

right buttons to be considered a top runner for this honor.

The

Chocotinis

at

Jade

Mountain

Resort

were

delicious.

The author enjoying the wonderful view of

the Piton Mountains from her sanctuary's

infinity pool at Jade Mountain Resort.

I had been invited to stay at Jade Mountain

for its chocolate festival back in 2012, which

whetted my appetite for the sweeter side

of St. Lucia. I’m pleased to see the resort

continues to host a number of chocolatefocused

events, including its signature

Emerald Estate Cocoa Tour, sensory

tastings and workshops, as well as its crème

de la crème Chocolate Alchemy Package.

If you love artisan chocolate and luxury

accommodations equally well, Jade Mountain is a great choice for you. Jade Mountain and

its sister property, Anse Chastanet (offering direct beach access and an easier hit on your

wallet), are both located just north of St. Lucia’s historic former capital of Soufrière in the

island’s primary cocoa-growing region.

15

Concierge Kevin

at Calabash Cove helped

make our stay even better!

One of the

wondeful

things about

staying at

Calabash

Cover in St.

Lucia are the

cacao trees

growing on the

lush property.

Barbara was our technician at

the Calabash Cove spa for our

chocolate massage & body scrub.

Along the northern end of St. Lucia’s west

coast is the national capital of Castries,

near another tremendous property called

Calabash Cove Resort and Spa, where

we stayed in March 2025. We loved every

minute of our stay at Calabash Cove for its

fabulous beachside location, heart-stopping

beauty and extremely happy and helpful

staff and management. Special mention to

concierge Kevin, who was responsible for

our ultra-private stay in beachfront Cabin

5 following our stay in a lovely suite in the

resort’s main building. And for the record,

in my nearly 30 years as a professional travel

writer, this was only the second time I was

brought to tears when entering our assigned

accommodations — and pure coincidence

that they were both on the island of St.

Lucia. The island is truly beautiful at every

turn, but also not a destination for the

budget-minded.

With an owner originally from Austria,

you’ll notice the quality of a high-end

European property combined with a strong

Caribbean flavor to be found in every aspect

of Calabash Cove, whose staff is 100 percent

of St. Lucian origin. If there is paradise on

earth, this might be it.

CHOCOLATE SPA TREATMENTS

ARE A MUST FOR THE

CHOCOLATE TRAVELER

Speaking of heaven on earth, there is nothing better than a

chocolate body wrap. I had one of my most memorable ones

at the Pure Jungle Spa in Costa Rica, and it sent me through

the roof with exhilaration as the serotonin from the cocoa

worked its way through my body. I was slathered with molten

cocoa and then wrapped in warm banana leaves, leaving me

to “cook” on the table for an hour, and I was then taken to the

outdoor jungle shower to hose myself off. We were fortunate to

find that Calabash Cove offers a Chocolate Affair for couples,

during which we both received a cocoa body scrub, followed

by a cocoa-mint massage. Our spa attendant, Barbara, was

very friendly and professional and left us feeling fantastic.

In addition to making us feel incredible from the outside in,

Calabash Cove tantalized us with deliciousness on the dinner

table. The ahi tuna steak was thick, succulent and cocoacrusted.

And our dinner was capped with sea salt caramel

chocolate cheesecake, which was so amazing, we had it every

day of our stay.

If the idea of a jungle-based heritage property draws you in, but

you’re looking for a more authentic setting that prominently

features St. Lucia’s strong connection to the cacao industry, I’d

highly recommend the 19th-century, award-winning, ecofriendly

Fond Doux Resort & Spa. (Fond Doux translates

to “sweet valley,” and we can see why it got that name, as the

resort has its own cocoa plantation.)

Guest cottages at Fond Doux are unique, ranging from the

Tree-Top version with 68 vertical steps to reach the “room with

a view” to the Ginger Lily cabin we enjoyed on flat ground,

with no stairs to climb and a comfortable king bed, outdoor

shower and huge yard with cacao trees in our own private

jungle. Fond Doux’s Chocolate Heritage Tour and chocolatemaking

class were fantastic, pumping the immersive chocolate

experience through the Richter scale. Unfortunately, Fond

Doux’s restaurant doesn’t embrace the cocoa-cuisine concept

that we loved so much at the other properties we visited.

Guests Eduardo from Toronto and Van from the

UK shown making chocolate at Fond Doux.

Making our chocolate bars at Fond Doux with fellow

chocolate lovers Eduardo from Toronto (left), Van

from the UK & Doreen and husband Kim.

16

Cabin # 5 at Calabash Cove Resort & Spa provided us with

the private getaway experience we dreamed of.

The Fond Doux Eco Resort enables you

to see the historic cacao processing

equipment still in use today.

Based on the seven unique St. Lucian properties we stayed at

(one included a hilltop Airbnb near Gros Islet and the site of St.

Lucia’s Friday Night Street Fest), I wholeheartedly recommend

St. Lucia as one of the top destinations for the adventurous

chocolate lover who wants more from the experience than

just tasting chocolate at a public event. This locale had no

connection to chocolate but did have a private pool and a great

view of the Rodney Bay Marina.

Taking the tree to bar tour at Fond Doux was

an excellent way to experience the various

stages of chocolate production.

17

THINGS TO KNOW

WHEN PLANNING YOUR

TRIP TO ST. LUCIA

• Be sure to get your online customs and immigration

form filled out at least three days before you leave home

by following this link.

• English is the primary language of the island nation,

making it easy for North American travelers to

communicate with the locals.

• The natural beauty of the people and St. Lucia’s

breathtaking landscape make it irresistible.

PHO REAL:

How I Survived Breaking My Arm in Vietnam

Whoosh! Like most accidents, it

happened in a nanosecond. Call it

vanity if you like. Or just bad luck.

Regardless of what inspired me to

stand on a chair in a Hội An hotel

room, here’s what led up to that

fateful evening.

Story and Photos by Melissa Adams

In early January, about a month

before I left for Southeast Asia, I

developed an earache. But it was

not until a neighbor knocked on

my door, complaining about my

loud TV, that I realized I’d gone

deaf. Despite a round of prescribed

antibiotics, the problem persisted

and I considered cancelling my

trip. But the cons outweighed the

pros and I flew from Amsterdam to

Bangkok in early February. Alas,

Thai massages and steamy soups

did nothing to improve my hearing.

18

• The island is easy to navigate, though sufferers of

advanced arthritis (particularly in the knees) should be

aware that you may encounter an unexpected number of

stairs at nearly every resort and attraction you visit. Be

sure to enquire whether you’d be facing an abundance of

stairs, as five of the seven properties we stayed at while in

St. Lucia involved anywhere from three to seven flights of

stairs to reach the full services offered by each property

— or even just to reach street level. (Elevators are rare.

Some resorts do have golf carts to help get you around,

but certainly not all.) Even having a “beachfront location”

doesn’t mean you won’t be faced with an abundance of

stairs getting from your assigned room to the rest of the

amenities of your location.

• There are a couple of noteworthy chocolate shops you

might like to visit. We enjoyed our tasting tour at Cacoa

Sainte Lucie, a small-batch artisanal shop located in the

Belvedere, Canaries region of St. Lucia (near Soufrière).

We had also hoped to visit Chocolate Micoud, a shop

located on the east coast of the island in the town of

Micoud, but were unable to connect with them during

the short window of time we were available to make the

cross-country journey.

• Chocolate and cacao are celebrated throughout the

island of St. Lucia during Chocolate Heritage Month, held

annually in August.

• If you want to learn more about the broad spectrum of

experiences you can enjoy during your chocolate travels

to various other global destinations, please visit this post.

A visit to Cacoa Sainte Lucie is a must

for any chocolate lover in St. Lucia.

The author and husband on a catamaran enjoying great

views and snorkelling near Soufriere.

Hectic Hanoi

few days later, I needed eyes, not ears, to process the first surprise of my adventure at Hanoi’s Nội Bài

International Airport. Withdrawing the equivalent of

100USD at an ATM, I became an instant millionaire with

more than two million dong in my wallet. It took a few

minutes to figure out that the highest denomination

banknote, the dark blue 500,000-dong note, is worth

less than $20 USD. Later, I learned the difference between paper money, which is

tossed into peoples' graves and sometimes used as an insulting “tip,” and plastic

money, which includes notes over 10,000 dong – about 40¢ in US currency.

This higher math was handy for calculating tips, including the 50,000-dong note Cha-ching! This is what remained in my wallet

I handed the taxi driver who delivered me to my Hanoi hotel. After checking in, when I returned from Vietnam – about $1.65.

my next stop was the pharmacy across the street, where two pharmacists quizzed

me about my ailments via Google Translate, examined my ear, and charged me less than 20USD for an armful of drugs no doctor

at home would prescribe.

Conical hats are the ultimate

souvenir from Vietnam.

19 19

ut I was still quite deaf

when I met fellow travelers

on my Intrepid Travel

“Real Food Adventure”

that evening. Our group

was small and congenial:

three 60-something

Aussie couples, two single

Aussie ladies, and one fellow

American. For Anh, our tiny Vietnamese guide,

we became “honeymoon couples” and “single

ladies.” Fortunately, my hearing issues did not

impair my appetite on our walking tour of the

Vietnamese capital.

HAUNTING HA LONG BAY

The following morning, we boarded a minibus

headed for Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO-listed site a few

hours east of the capital. In this dramatic landscape,

even a deaf person could appreciate an otherworldly

seascape as grand in scale as Norway’s fjords but

more haunting and delicate, with forested spires and

jagged islands. From a rowboat we admired nature’s

artistry and the effects of eons of erosion – a dreamy

world of towering granite walls rising from the

milky-green waters of the Gulf of Tonkin.

Annam Junk dining

Navigating streets swarming with motorcyclists,

Ahn protected us like a bodyguard, belying

her small stature. Along wide boulevards and

narrow alleyways, she guided us to “wedding

street,” where we indulged in sweets typically

offered at Vietnamese nuptials – appetizers for

a roaming dinner of banh mi (the Vietnamese

version of a submarine sandwich), rice pancake

dumplings, and a hearty bowl of pho, a classic

Vietnamese noodle soup garnished with herbs

and bean sprouts.

Steeped in Vietnamese legend, Ha Long Bay

translates to “Descending Dragon,” a reference to

a mythic creature who created the islands floating

in the bay to protect Vietnam from invaders.

Fortunately, none threatened us on our home for

the night, the Annam Junk, a traditional wooden

sailing vessel with 10 cabins – enough to give each

of the single ladies their own space. While lacking

modern amenities, the two-deck craft had charm

as well as an intimacy larger vessels lack. A chef

with impressive culinary artistry – a true sign of

his Vietnamese heritage with its focus on aesthetic

presentation – was a bonus.

From a rowboat we admired nature’s artistry on

Ha Long Bay.

Motorcycles are the primary mode of transport throughout Vietnam.

Among the sweets typically offered at

Vietnamese nuptials are these jellied orbs.

In this dramatic landscape, an otherworldly

seascape emerged.

For breakfast, lunch and sometimes dinner, we filled up on pho.

Engaged couples enjoy one-stop shopping for

weddings on Hanoi’s “wedding street.”

Fine dining on Ha Long Bay

On Ha Long Bay, we slept on the Annam Junk, a

traditional wooden sailing vessel

20 21

MANY SHADES

OF HUE

ON THE ROAD

TO HỘI AN

Dinner in Hue was at a private residence with an imperial shrine.

A sculpture garden welcomed us to An Nhiên,

a restaurant set in a 450-year-old ancestral home.

Age and

gender

pose no

barriers

for

riding a

scooter.

Back in Hanoi, we packed up for an

overnight train ride to Hue, Vietnam’s

former royal capital. Ensconced in

sleeper cars, filling up on spring

rolls, noodles, and other take-out

fare, we waved to adrenaline-seeking

bystanders sitting inches from the

tracks on Hanoi’s “train street.”

Fortunately, my bunkmates included

the only doctor on our trip, a woman

with 39 years of medical practice

in Australia. While I’ll never know

whether time or the drugs she offered

me did the trick, by the end of the 12-

hour journey, my hearing had finally

returned.

After a hearty breakfast of pho in

Hue, my travel mates embarked on a

tour of the city’s imperial monuments

on the back of motorbikes driven by

local Vietnamese. Too dangerous, I

thought, remembering my surgeon’s

words after breaking my hip in Italy

a year earlier: “If you fall again, it’s all

over.” A year later, I never suspected

that standing on a chair in a hotel

room would be more deadly.

Invigorated and hungry, everyone

returned from their motorbike

ride ready for lunch at An Nhiên,

a restaurant set in a 450-year-old

ancestral home overlooking a garden

studded with abstract artworks. Our

vegan meal, a medley of small plates,

was prepared by 21st-generation

descendants of the royal family. But

you don’t need a royal pedigree to

prepare good food, as we learned that

evening at a private residence with

an imperial shrine. In her humble

kitchen, the lady of the house cooked

our multi-course dinner, which we

washed down with strong rice liquor

proudly poured by her husband.

It was a drizzly morning in Vietnam's

ancient capital when we set off on the

four-hour drive to Hội An. First stop:

Kin Coffee for a jolt of salt coffee, a local

specialty. More like a creamy milkshake

than a cup of joe, it’s made with sweetened

condensed milk and robusta coffee topped

with sea salt. Also popular in Vietnam is

egg coffee made with espresso topped with

a meringue-like fluff made with whipped

sweetened condensed milk and egg yolk.

Properly caffeinated, we learned to make

incense and checked out traditional

conical hats – the ultimate souvenir from

Vietnam – at Thuy Xuan Incense Village.

As we drove across villages, rice paddies,

oyster farms and mountain passes, Anh

regaled us with tales. We learned about

her parents’ shame that she wasn’t married

but was looking for a girlfriend. About

forgiveness for a war many Boomers

protested against that young Vietnamese

only learned about in history books. And

about our destination, a UNESCO World

Heritage site with a name that translates

as "shops by the sea." Named the fourth

most beautiful city in the world in 2024 by

Travel + Leisure, the little port town is also

known as the tailoring capital of Vietnam.

Lured by the prospect of owning a

custom-made garment, many of us

headed for Luly Tailor when we hit Hội

An’s lantern-lit shopping district. After

browsing through notebooks showcasing

fashion options, I chose a knee-length

summer dress with a notched collar and

short, cuffed sleeves. A seamstress took

my measurements and showed me fabrics

ranging from lightweight linen to flowing

silk. I selected a bold, tropical silk print

that ultimately survived surgery and

several days in a Hội An hospital. But I’m

getting ahead of the story.

Enroute to Hội An, we drove through villages,

rice paddies, oyster farms and mountain passes.

Hội An lives up to its name, which translates as

"shops by the sea.”

A bouquet of colorful incense greeted us

at Thuy Xuan Incense Village.

22 22 23

Getting Smashed

Hospitalized in Hội An

500 performers interpret five centuries of Hoi An history at Hội An Memories.

At Hoi An Impressions Park, performers breathe life into 400 years of history.

Outdoor mini-shows set the stage for Hội An Memories.

After a morning cooking class the next day,

I returned to Luly Tailor for a fitting. I chose

pearl buttons for my new dress and asked

that the hemline be shortened. My finished

garment would be delivered to my hotel, I was

told. That night, I learned how much more

there is to Hội An beyond retail therapy.

Armed with take-out fare from Banh Mi

Phuong, named best sandwich shop in Hội An

by Anthony Bourdain in an episode of Parts

Unknown, I joined the other single ladies

for an evening at Hội An Impressions Park,

Vietnam’s first themed cultural park. Amidst

a throng of locals and visitors, we watched

performers in traditional costumes breathe

life into 400 years of history in a handful of

minishows – prologues for Hội An Memories,

a multi-stage, open-air production with

cutting-edge sound and lighting.

From my VIP seat overlooking a giant

outdoor stage and the water beyond, I watched

some 500 performers interpret Hội An’s saga

from the 16th century to the present. The

mesmerizing spectacle unfolded over an hour,

featuring a melancholy love story, scenes of

separation and reunion, an opulent wedding

ceremony, and an ensemble of women in

traditional Ao Dai costumes and conical hats

gliding across water, representing Vietnam’s

journey to modern times.

Back at the Sincerity Hotel, we booked

massages for the next day and the concierge

handed me a package. I knew what was inside

and wanted to try it on in my room. But there

was no full-length mirror. So I moved a chair

closer to one that hung over a desk and stood

on it for a better view. Before I could glimpse

my reflection, the chair’s bottom gave way,

landing me on the floor, my right forearm

dangling at a surreal angle from my elbow.

Horrified, I called Ahn, who had me in a Hội

An hospital, still in my dress, within an hour.

Clearly, I’d never have that massage or be able

to continue with the group to Ho Chi Minh

City and the Mekong Delta.

“It’s broken,” a Vietnamese doctor

announced, looking at an X-ray revealing

a fracture below my right shoulder that

confirmed what we all suspected. “But it will

heal in a month,” he assured me. Fortunately,

the surgical team was able to spare my dress

through an operation that pinned my arm

together. I wore it for several days before

switching to hospital garb.

And so began my recovery and the struggle

to facilitate communication between the

hospital and my travel insurance company

with my right arm in a sling. Compared to

the two weeks I spent in a hospital in Puglia,

IT a year earlier that included a teenage

roommate who smoked in our room, two

demented seniors who screamed day and

night, and a burly Italian who threatened to

kill me and throw me out the window if I

played movies on my iPad, my room in Hội

An’s Pacific General Hospital was quiet and

private.

When a woman from my native Southern

California moved in, I was pleased to

have an English-speaking roommate. Her

injuries were incurred in an accident far

more dramatic than mine: falling from a

bike when a dog ran across the road. We

compared notes daily and chose our meals

each evening from four set menus, all with

Vietnam’s ubiquitous spring rolls and a fried

egg thrown in. While hardly gourmet, three

hearty daily meals were far more ample fare

than the meager rations I received in Italy.

Six days after my Valentine’s Day accident, I

was able to fly home to Amsterdam with an

escort assigned by Allianz Global pushing

me through customs in a wheelchair.

By mid-March, the sling was off, as my

Vietnamese doctor had advised. I never got

to the southern half of the country, but I

survived breaking my arm in Vietnam and

confirmed a lesson that should resonate

for real: never leave home without travel

insurance.

Thuy Xuan Incense Village

24 25

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi:

A serene composition of domes and arches

rising like pearls above the desert landscape.

Dome of Peace:

Entrance to

“Souk Al Jami”

and pearly white

silhouette of the

Grand Mosque

just steps away.

Sheikh Zayed Grand

Mosque courtyard and

minaret. Casting a glow, the

sunlight reverberates on the

polished marble floor.

The Architectural Splendor of the UAE:

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

in Abu Dhabi

“Nobody walks in Abu Dhabi. It’s the

desert,” the hotel clerk warned when

I asked whether two sightseeing

spots that looked deceptively close

on my map could be reached on foot.

“People either take buses or taxis,”

he added. So, abandoning any hope

of wandering, I boarded the hotel

shuttle bound for Sheikh Zayed

Grand Mosque.

From the parking lot, the mosque

26

Story and Photos by Daniele Auvray

appeared tantalizingly close, its white

silhouette gleaming in the sun.

The entrance lay within a luminous

Faberge-egg-shaped structure known as

the Dome of Peace.

From there, visitors follow a carefully

designed underground passageway that

unexpectedly opens into a full-fledged

shopping arcade.

Perfumes, honey, chocolate, traditional

garments and a cluster of restaurants,

including fast-food counters and cafes

where a robot might serve you drinks,

greet you. Perhaps this is because food

and drinks are not permitted inside the

mosque, or perhaps it is simply a modern

interpretation of the traditional Arabian

souk, or market, fittingly named Souk

Al Jami. Water fountains await inside for

those who need them. Either way, it forms

a contemporary and surprising prelude to

the spiritual grandeur ahead.

Taj Mahal pool reflection:

A pool expertly positioned

on a north-south axis

mirrors the exact image

of the mausoleum.

y first real view of the mosque was blurry. As I

stepped outside and lifted my camera, the desert

heat staged its ambush. My lens, fresh from the

air conditioning, fogged instantly. For 10 stubborn

minutes, all I could capture were soft, dreamlike shapes. The

exterior shots would have to wait.

The heat shimmered across the marble courtyard, turning the

mosque’s reflection into a mirage, an ethereal sight that felt

almost otherworldly. That moment brought back a memory of

another architectural wonder, the Taj Mahal. The comparison is

not as far-fetched as it seems.

Both monuments share Mughal, Ottoman, and Fatimid

influences. The Taj Mahal in Agra, India, completed in the

17th century, is celebrated for its symmetry, intricate inlays

and divine proportions, an enduring testament to Mughal

craftsmanship. The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, completed

in the 21st century, blends classical Islamic forms with

contemporary sensibilities. Its architect, Syrian designer Yussef

Abdelki, drew inspiration from architectural traditions of the

past, from Mughal to Ottoman to Fatimid.

Located at the entrance to the city on Abu Dhabi Island,

the Grand Mosque, with its pristine white walls, domes

and minarets, is impossible to miss. Both monuments are

mausoleums. The Taj Mahal houses the tombs of Emperor Shah

Jahan and his wife Mumtaz Mahal, with a mosque standing

separately on the grounds, while the Sheikh Zayed Grand

Mosque is both a place of worship and the final resting place

of Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, the UAE’s founding

president.

27

Taj Mahal dome:

The predominant feature of the

mausoleum is 75 feet high marble

dome that surmounts the tomb.

Taj Mahal detailed “Jali”:

Intricate floral decor with “Jali” (window)

design in a beehive pattern entirely

carved out of marble.

Taj Mahal ornamentation calligraphy:

Delicate floral inlays in “Pietra Dura”

technique and elegant calligraphy of

verses on the main facade.

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque decorated columns:

These columns feature “Pietra Dura”inlays crafted from

semi-precious stones sourced across several continents.

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque’s inner marble walls:

Interior and exterior are adorned with white marble giving the

mosque a serene and majestic appearance.

he Taj Mahal’s facades

are adorned with floral

inlays of semiprecious stones

and calligraphy by 17th century

master Amanat Khan Shirazi. Its

construction, spanning 1631 to 1648,

represents the height of Mughal

architecture. Similarly, the Sheikh

Zayed Grand Mosque features more

than 1,000 columns clad in white

marble and inlaid with lapis lazuli,

red agate and mother-of-pearl, an

exquisite continuation of the Italian

pietra dura tradition. Construction

began in 1996, and the mosque opened

to the public in 2007.

Natural materials — marble, gold,

semiprecious stones, crystals and

ceramics — were chosen for their

beauty and longevity. Artisans and

materials came from across the world:

Syria, India, Italy, Germany, Turkey,

Pakistan, Malaysia, Iran, China, the

United Kingdom, New Zealand,

Macedonia and the UAE.

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque courtyard

tulip inlaid marble design:

Floral mosaic in full bloom crafted from

marble pieces cut with jeweler’s precision

The intricate flower mosaics decorating

the courtyard were designed by British

artist and illustrator Kevin Dean, who

selected flowers common to Middle

Eastern gardens: lilies, roses, tulips and

irises. Colored marble forms exuberant

floral patterns that curl and twist gracefully

from the edges toward the center, while

thousands of small pieces of white marble

adorn the rest of the courtyard. The

courtyard, with its floral design, measures

180,000 square feet and is considered the

largest marble mosaic in the world.

The exterior and interior are adorned with

white marble, giving the mosque a serene

and majestic appearance.

In line with the Islamic prohibition against

the use of anthropomorphic forms, the

decorative elements can be grouped into

calligraphy, abstract forms or vegetative

motifs.

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque pillars:

These pillars feature gilded palm capitals, honoring

the date palm’s historic role in Gulf life.

nside, the mosque’s serene

majesty continues: Ninety-six

marble-clad columns inlaid

with mother-of-pearl support the

main prayer hall.

Seven monumental chandeliers crafted by

Faustig of Munich incorporate millions of

Swarovski crystals. The largest — one of

the biggest chandeliers in any mosque —

measures 33 feet in diameter and 49 feet in

height.

Pools along the arcades reflect the columns,

which become illuminated at night, casting

the monument in a soft, celestial glow, as

the lighting system was designed to mirror

the phases of the moon.

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque prayer hall chandelier:

Upside down palm tree masterpiece adorned with

15500 led lighting valves illuminating the prayer hall.

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque central courtyard:

Also known as “Sahan”, a vast marble canvas reflecting

domes shaped by centuries of Islamic artistry.

28

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

water fountain:

Panel of hand-painted tiles from Iznik

(Turkey) with botanical drawings set

above the water fountain.

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque courtyard

vegetative art design:

A remarkable mosaic of green foliage

crafted with the precision of botanical

illustration in stone.

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque internal

dome design:

This dome’s calligraphy includes verses

by Emirati artist Mohammed Mandi,

master of classical Arabic script.

I didn’t see much of Abu Dhabi, but the

Grand Mosque — the crowning pearl of

that desert city — stayed with me.

White domes rise from the desert like

delicate pearls, a quiet echo of the waters

that once shaped the city’s fortunes.

I stood there longer than I meant to,

caught between the brilliance of the

marble and the hush of the courtyard.

Even now, I’m not sure what moves me

more — the superb craftsmanship, the

scale or the way the whole structure seemed

to breathe with the shifting sky.

All I know is that Sheikh Zayed Grand

Mosque lingers on, like a vision I will carry

with me long after the heat haze fades.

29

SUSTAINABILITY INITIATIVES AT THE RESORT

For any hotel property, sustainability

initiatives often happen behind the

scenes. Amsterdam Manor focuses

on minimizing electricity and water

consumption and reducing waste

production across the resort. In

2024, the hotel further reduced

energy consumption by 7.9% and cut

greenhouse gas emissions by 9.6%

per guest per night. These solutions

are built into the architecture: Insulated

roofs reduce the need for cooling,

and heat waste from air conditioning

systems and thermal panels is used to

heat shower water, letting solar energy

do most of the work.

That same year, the resort reduced

water consumption to 184.3 liters

per guest per night, well below the

regional average of 486.5 liters, even

with the island’s year-round average

temperature of 27 C (81 F).

The combined initiatives have

allowed Amsterdam Manor to retain

the prestigious EarthCheck Master

Certification for the 15th consecutive

year, recognizing it as a global leader

in sustainable tourism.

Classic Dutch Colonial architecture of the resort illuminated by the rising sun. Photo credit: Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort.

Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort, Aruba,

Leading the Way in Sustainable Tourism

Story by Kateryna Topol

Aerial view of the Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort. Photo credit: Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort.

30

Located steps away from one of

Aruba’s most beautiful beaches,

Eagle Beach, Amsterdam Manor

Beach Resort is a generational family

property. The Van Schaijk family

built the resort in 1989, starting

with only 49 rooms. Architect Jan

Hubert leaned into the Dutch colonial

appearance, embracing intricate

finishes and dormer windows, but

unlike the dark-colored developments

on the mainland, Amsterdam Manor

is bright yellow, representative of the

sunny island life.

For more than 35 years, the resort

has been a home away from home

for families from around the world.

The property grew by 30 rooms and

is constantly working to improve and

modernize amenities. Every room has

either a kitchenette or a full kitchen (in

the one-bedroom suite) and a spacious

refrigerator. With all the available space

and kitchen amenities, it is no wonder

that many island visitors settle in at the

Manor for weeks at a time.

Aruba is a small island with flourishing

wildlife, something the Van Schaijks

deeply care about and work to

preserve. Various sustainability

initiatives are integrated into the

hotel’s operations and best practices,

supporting the environments and

communities they are part of.

Amsterdam Manor staff and guests gathered for a monthly

beach cleanup. Photo credit: Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort.

Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort volunteer out on a monthly

beach cleanup. Photo credit: Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort.

31

SUPPORTING

THE NATURE

AND WILDLIFE

OF ARUBA

Fofoti Tree on Eagle Beach.

Photo credit: Kateryna Topol.

Beach sign educating visitors on

the importance of the Fofoti Tree.

Photo credit: Kateryna Topol.

The hotel also retains a Travelife

Gold award for its commitment

to sustainability and dedication to

inspiring others to do the same.

Among these eco-initiatives

are monthly beach cleanups

and ongoing protection of the

famed fofoti tree on the shores

of Eagle Beach. The fofoti, likely

photographed by every hotel and

beach visitor, comes from the

mangrove family and is shaped by

Aruba’s persistent winds.

Turtle hatchling on Eagle Beach. Photo

credit: Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort.

Off the resort, Amsterdam

Manor works with Turtuga

Aruba, Bubali Bird Sanctuary

and Donkey Sanctuary

Aruba. A number of staff

members at the resort are

assigned to collaborate with

Turtuga Aruba, protecting

sea turtle nests from human

interference and safeguarding

newborn turtles on their way

back to the ocean.

Tartuga Aruba representative releasing turtles on Eagle Beach.

Photo credit: Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort.

COMMUNITY

EFFORTS

Amsterdam Manor staff and volunteers watering plants during the annual

Day of Happiness in Aruba. Photo credit: Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort.

32

A group of volunteers gathers between the Fofoti Trees after the monthly beach cleanup.

Photo credit: Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort.

Locals to the island, the Amsterdam

Manor team has deep ties to the

community. Most goods and services

are sourced locally, and staff often join

community events across the country.

The hotel has also opened its symbolic

doors to host community events

like the Day of Happiness in Aruba,

provided entertainment for older adults

and regularly facilitates sustainability

education opportunities for guests and

locals.

“Our team’s continued commitment

to eco-friendly operations stems from

a shared belief that we can deliver

exceptional guest experiences while

protecting the natural beauty and culture

that make our island so special,” said

Jurgen van Schaijk, owner and managing

director of Amsterdam Manor Beach

Resort and MVC Eagle Beach Aruba, in

a statement to EarthCheck. “These efforts

might not be visible to guests on a daily

basis, but the hospitality of the resort is

on full display from the moment you set

foot on the property. And if you visit on

the right day, you just might be able to join

the Manor team in their efforts to help

preserve the biota of Aruba yourself.”

Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort

volunteer out on a monthly

beach cleanup. Photo credit:

Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort

33

Perpignan

France’s Little-Known City of Colors and Sunshine

Story and Photos by Ava Kabouchy

September photojournalism festival, Visa Pour l'Image

The Cathedral of St. Jean and Catalan flags on Leon Gambetta Square

Panoramic view over Perpignan from the city's most famous building, the Palace of the Kings of Majorca, built in the 13th and 14th centuries

34

I had never heard of Perpignan until I decided to spend my first nonworking year (I never use the word “retired”)

relearning French somewhere in France. I looked at a map, and my eyes went to the south, looking for a warm

climate, and I saw the name “Perpignan.” Then I looked at Google images of Perpignan and saw palm trees, blue

skies and the iconic Castillet, the city’s medieval gate, and my decision was made. Called by some the secondsunniest

city in France, Perpignan has 250 days of sunshine and its own microclimate. It might be overcast and

gray in Toulouse, only a two-hour train ride away, but the sun will be shining in Perpignan.

Surprises Around Every Corner

When you visit Perpignan, you will not see any of France’s

famous monuments, but you will see colors and more

colors. Photography has been a passion of mine for a long

time, and not noticing Perpignan’s vibrant colors would be

impossible. Colors everywhere! The blue skies, the pastel

colors of the architecture, the bricks of the Castillet, the

garnet-shaped theater L’Archipel — a vibrant red inside and

out, designed to symbolize the area’s garnet industry — the

fresh vegetables and fruits of the Casanyes Market.

Salvador Dali, who called Perpignan in Catalan, his native

language, “el centre du mon,” “the center of the world,”

caught some of those colors, such as the one he painted of

the Perpignan train station. You will experience Catalan

culture and its spicy cuisine, along with the cuisine of

southwestern France: a variety of dishes made with duck

and many others with mussels and other seafood. You will

sample some of France’s finest wines from nearby Collioure,

whose rocky, dry soil and steep, south-facing hills create

intense, full-bodied wines.

For Lovers of History

If you are a history buff, seeing the Palais des Rois de Mallorque, the

Palace of the Kings of Mallorca, will intrigue you with its medieval

history and the immensity of its Gothic architecture. The palace

was begun in 1274 as a fortress by the first king of Majorca, King

Jaime II, who wanted to protect Perpignan’s growing prosperity. It

is believed that Perpignan was settled around the beginning of the

10th century and at that time became a commercial center for the

Roussillon region.

The Musée d’art Hyacinthe Rigaud will delight you with wall-sized

paintings of Louis XIV and even

of the Sun King’s mother. Hôtel

Pams, not a hotel but a mansion

built between 1852 and 1872, was

built by Pierre Bardou, who made

his fortune by manufacturing

cigarette papers, now owned by

the city of Perpignan and open to

the public.

Looking down into the entrance

of the Hôtel de Pams

Watching a football game in Les Halles

ach September, Perpignan hosts an

international photojournalism festival, Visa

Pour l’Image, showcasing reported and

unreported news events around the world. The

festival brings light to environmental problems

around the world, how countries may or

may not be addressing them, and the

consequences of governmental inaction. It

also highlights cultural practices — anything

from weddings to the lives of nomadic tribes

— senior women playing a game of basketball on one wall,

and the harsh treatment of prisoners on another.

As you walk along Perpignan’s medieval streets, you may

be surprised by what or whom you see. The city’s narrow

streets attest to the summer heat, as the buildings were

constructed close to one another, creating cooling shade.

Along the Canal Vauban, which runs through the center

Entertainers at the entrance to the medieval fair

Perpignan has many colorful fairs and festivals throughout the year, this

one announcing that the France Jazzebre music festival is coming to town.

of Perpignan and is bordered by cafés and retail shops, you will

also find Les Halles, an indoor market that opened in 2017. Even

before entering the large market area, you will be tempted by an

assortment of gelato and French pastries at the entrance. Entering

the main area of Les Halles, however, you might be overwhelmed

by the choices awaiting you — which of the 27 stands to visit to

purchase fresh fruits, meat, fish, oysters, shrimp, a huge assortment

of olives and dried fruits, cheese from the Pyrenees, regional wines

and craft beers. Or you can choose among several restaurants and

enjoy the cuisine of Morocco, Lebanon, Portugal and Catalonia, or

just a well-made American cheeseburger.

Les Halles is most often crowded on weeknights and weekends, and

there is an outdoor seating area. If you are early enough, you’ll find

a comfortable sofa where you can sit and enjoy your meal with a

glass of wine in the convivial atmosphere. You might even be able to

learn to dance the tango or watch a soccer game with some locals.

The 14th-century Saint John the Baptist Cathedral was built in

Gothic-style architecture, with one central nave, in the center of

Perpignan. Catalan culture and history are part of the history of

this region of France, Roussillon. The red and yellow Catalan flag,

symbolizing blood and battlefields, can be seen in numerous places

in Perpignan and across the region.

Next to the cathedral is the cloistered cemetery Campo Santo,

where a medieval village is recreated once a year with singing

troubadours, music and dancing, knights in combat, and

demonstrations of forging, leather crafts and pottery making.

35

36

Colorful cafés in the sun on the Place de la République

Fresh fish merchant at the Casanyes Market

On the way to the Casanyes Market

Casanyes, a Local Market

Shared by Several Cultures

Open-air markets can be found all over France.

They make up much of the culture of towns and

villages and are social gathering places as much

as places to do one’s daily food shopping. If you

are an early riser, you will see women and men

setting up their stalls of fresh fruit, vegetables, huge

platters of paella, olives, dried fruit, inexpensive

clothing, jewelry, makeup and the greatest variety of

household gadgets imaginable.

The meat markets are all halal, well-stocked,

organized and clean. Fresh fish from the nearby

Mediterranean is available every day. The market

is open each day from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m., and it is

not just what you’ll find in the market, but also the

people you will see and hear — friendly women

calling to customers, promising the best prices.

Some will even give you an extra carton of

blueberries or whatever fruit you may be buying. I

remember filling my bag with a variety of fruits and

vegetables, and when I handed it to the merchant to

pay him, he looked through my bag and asked me

for 6 euros. The price would easily have been double

in any supermarket, and without all the conviviality

of the Casanyes Market.

What makes this market unique from others,

however, is the mingling of two very distinct, very

different cultures: Rom (Gypsy/Gitan) and North

African. The Casanyes Market borders the St.

Jacques neighborhood, which had been a Jewish

enclave for many years until around 1940, when

the Rom community began moving in along with

African families.

The two communities, Rom and North African,

are often at odds and violence erupts from time to

time, but they do agree on one important point —

they will not allow the government to demolish the

neighborhood as it has proposed doing, even with

the promise of better housing. Not only the Rom

and North African communities, but local people

as well who wanted to preserve the neighborhood,

were also joined by an assortment of local middleclass

groups who were keen to preserve St. Jacques’

architecture and cultural atmosphere.

alks to make the neighborhood

a UNESCO site continue.

These facts, however, do not

hide the realities of life in St. Jacques.

Unemployment is very high — some

estimates put it at 90% — and public

assistance is the norm. School attendance

is not a high priority for some Rom

families, creating future problems for

the children who reach adulthood with minimal

reading and writing skills. Health is poor among

many because of a diet of processed foods,

resulting in obesity and other health problems.

My host family has a young Rom man as part

of their family, as he is the father of two of their

great-grandchildren. This young man and I had

several conversations during my first year in

Perpignan, and he told me of the many difficulties

he faced growing up in an impoverished family

and being unable to find work because his Rom

background is looked down upon by many

potential employers, adding to the limited

schooling he had as an adolescent. He emphasized

the need for work among the young people of his

community and how nearly impossible it is to find

it. Problems of drugs and violence have found no

solution.

The St. Jacques neighborhood seems to wake up

about 4 p.m. when people congregate outside,

children running everywhere, music being loudly

played. Often, as I passed entrances into the

homes, I glimpsed unlit, narrow staircases and

wondered what life is like for this community, the

hardships it must face daily, and yet the people

stay. Family ties are very strong.

Among the Rom community, there is a palpable

sense of community and togetherness. A young

woman is never seen walking alone within St.

Jacques or in the center of Perpignan; she is

always part of a group of friends, often going into

town to the discount clothing store, and they are

closely surveilled. These young women are easily

recognizable, almost always dressed in black with

their long black hair piled high upon their heads.

The neighborhood is not clean and is considered

unsafe by many. Trash and debris line the curbs. I

had been warned many times not to walk through

St. Jacques at any time of day or night, but the

A Romani woman on the balcony of her home

in the St. Jacques neighborhood

A chimeny sweeper on his way to work

colors, sights and sounds were too intriguing for me to

bypass — walls covered in colorful graffiti, people of all ages

sitting outside on ragtag sofas and chairs, music playing,

laundry hanging from front windows day or night. Not

once, even late at night, however, did I ever feel threatened.

One night, in fact, upon seeing my camera, two young Rom

cousins came up to me and asked me about it, nothing more

than that. We talked for a while about school, what they

were studying and how much they enjoyed playing soccer.

And then I walked safely home.

37

A Fourteenth-Century

Lenten Tradition Relived

Each Good Friday

If you are in Perpignan on the Friday before Easter, you

will see a tradition that may take your breath away, dating

back to 1416, when a Dominican priest, Vincent Ferrier,

likened the suffering of Christ to the way criminals were

treated at the time. One of his sermons on this topic

resulted in the identity of executioners and condemned

men being hidden to keep the condemned men from

being identified by angry families, who might have

taken justice into their own hands. Over the years, the

procession of condemned men evolved into La Sanch,

meaning “The Blood,” to commemorate the crucifixion of

Jesus, and for many years, it was forbidden by the Catholic

Church as immoral, but La Sanch persisted and continues

today.

Members of the Brotherhood of the Sanch prepare for their

procession within the streets of Perpignan

Take the One-Euro Bus to Collioure

Perpignan boasts about being only 20 minutes from the

Mediterranean coast, and particularly from the colorful

Catalan town of Collioure, where anchovies are caught,

processed and sold. It is easily reached by car, but you

can also take the 1-euro bus, which will drop you off

around the corner from the 14th-century Château Royal

overlooking one of Collioure’s beaches.

Hikers can walk along the Sentier Littoral, the coastal trail,

as I did one day in January and viewed the Mediterranean

on one side and the Pyrenees on the other, with its snowcapped

peak Canigou, 2,875 meters, almost 9,000 feet. By

chance, one afternoon in January, the temperature reached

26 C, 79 F, much appreciated by someone like me from

Maine or anyone looking for a bit of winter warmth.

Men dressed in black signifying death,

and carrying a statue of Jesus' mother

The Sanch going through the St. Jacques neighborhood

Collioure's colorful Catalan fishing boats

Getting There

Barcelona’s El Prat is the nearest international airport. From there, you can take the metro for 4 euros or a taxi for about 25 euros

to Sants train station. The trip by train takes about 1 1/2 hours, and the train goes from Barcelona to Perpignan three times a day.

Regular flights and trains leave from Paris as well.

The wines of Collioure are well known throughout France

because of the unique dryness of the white wines made

Perpignan — Definitely

from grapes grown in dry, rocky soil on high, south-facing

slopes overlooking the Mediterranean at an incline of

Worth a Few Days or More

50%. Having driven past these slopes or hiked above them

in the Albères Mountains, I have wondered how people

Perpignan is a small city, one for all seasons, one from which

manage to harvest the grapes on such steep land, but they

there is no exodus in August as there is from Paris or from

do, and the delicious wines, whether white, red or rosé,

the Dordogne region, where large numbers of expats leave

are proof of their labor. So much about Roussillon is about

in January and February looking for warmer climes. Theatre,

color, and in Collioure, you will find homes painted in

cinemas, wine tastings, open-air markets, and just a simple

pastel colors — paint left over from the paint of the fishing

stroll through the city’s winding streets will always give you

boats — and a summer festival celebrating Catalan music

something to see and to do, something to enjoy, something

and culture.

Sunrise over Collioure and hopeful fishermen. The landmark church of Our Lady of the Angels is on the left.

new to learn, something to celebrate.

38 39

Every Summer

Vancouver’s Wine & Jazz Festival

Turns Esther Short Park into a

Playground of Sound, Taste, and Soul

Story and Photos by David & Susan Greenberg

Taylor Newville of Taylor Newville &

The Riders, wailing her angst.

Greek Gyros in the Vancouver Wine & Jazz Festival

Food Court.

he Vancouver (Washington)

Wine & Jazz Festival. Esther

Short Park. Grass lawn. Our

low-slung, portable concert chairs

were of the sort most likely to make

knee-replacement surgeons smirk.

Still, they provided perfect comfort

for imbibing an Overlord Hazy IPA

and a Cline Sauvignon Blanc.

Our fellow concertgoers, many

scuffed by time’s hand, wore

their patinas with pride. Many a

male mane, gray and sparse, was

collected into a ponytail (which,

obviously, counteracts aging). Many

a child would have looked askance

40

George Stevens, lead guitarist of the

Rumba Kings, plays hot licks.

at their prolifically tattooed parents

(and grandparents) moshing in front

of the stage. One fellow, with whom

the force was particularly strong,

danced nonstop from morning

through night. In toto, youth’s bloom

may have vanished for many, but its

sap was still rising.

Taylor Newville (of Taylor Newville &

the Riders) didn’t so much sing the

blues as keen them. Her man was

doing her wrong with the gal up the

street, and it hurt.

Horns blared. Ben Rice (of Ben Rice

& the PDX Hustle), aka the Blues

Ninja, overlaid jammy notes from his

William Brahm, guitarist, and Michael Tucker, saxophonist,

letting loose for Arturo Sandoval & Band.

Fender Telecaster. With a burled voice,

he wailed about the one who left him.

Could it be that he and Taylor Newville,

both wronged, would be right for each

other?

Stands of shade trees softened the

heat. There were booths selling goods

from wineries, breweries, distilleries

and cideries, plus food booths and

craft booths. We, along with other

fans and some musicians, stayed at

the warm-hearted, well-spruced Hilton

Vancouver Washington across the

street, whose restaurant, Grays, serves

a bodacious salted caramel skillet

cookie with vanilla ice cream, well

worth risking your A1C level.

e rarely dine at corporate chain

restaurants because their

central test-kitchen diktats tend

to squelch the genius of on-site chefs.

And they usually slow-pitch, which

doesn’t excite us nearly as much as a

meteoric knuckleball. Still, corporate

test kitchens can get it right. WildFin

American Grill, down the street from

the Hilton, abreast the Columbia

River, got it right. Their tomatoburrata

salad, anointed by reduced

balsamic, transcended the ordinary

with a sprinkling of deep-fried quinoa

and farro, which brought a beguiling

binary crunch. Their broiled miso cod

bonneted a terrific risotto based on

these two grains, along with shiitake

mushrooms.

We enjoyed Andrew Oliver’s erudite

commentary on 1920s-30s jazz-bluesswing

history as much as his music.

The pianist and bandleader of the

Bridgetown Sextet, one of their many

songs was “Jimmy’s Mean Mama.” It

helped confirm the impression that

mean mamas (and mean daddies), for

all the misery they induce, are a boon

to the music biz. Misery, particularly

someone else’s, sells.

Old-school protocol requires all

jazz and blues musicians and

aficionados to wear shades, like

the Blues Brothers, particularly in

dark places. It was dark when we

returned from a languorous break,

wearing shades, virtually blind. The

Gospel of Matthew (15:14) says, “If a

blind man guides a blind man, both

will fall into a pit.” Matthew was fly

for that’s roughly what happened to

us. Being of sound mind and keenly

aware of health insurance co-pays,

we renounced old school. Perhaps

hepcats navigate by echolocation.

The demographics had shifted with

the hour to a crowd with more tire

tread and later bedtimes. Along with

everyone else, we grooved to the

Rumba Kings — three guitarists,

one violinist, a drummer, a conga

player and a keyboardist — who

wove an intricate sonic brocade.

The audience swayed, danced and

yipped. A person next to us, in the

thrall, spontaneously howled. It was

Wildfin Restaurant's lightly

charred Miso Cod over a

risotto of faro and quinoa.

like folks talking in tongues, but in

worship of another god.

Is music composed or is it

discovered? Could it be that we’re

surrounded by an infinitude,

maybe even a multiverse, of

stirring music just waiting to

be plucked from the ether?

How many top hit songs dangle

inaudibly before us? Will the pain

of love ever cease? Attend the

Vancouver Wine & Jazz Festival

and decide for yourself.

41

Amador County:

A Gold Rush Legacy

in Wine Country

Story and Photos by Cori Solomon

Nestled in the heart of Amador County, Sutter Creek captures the legacy of the gold rush, with its

charming main street and restored 19th-century Victorian buildings recalling a time when miners

flooded the Sierra foothills. Just a few miles away, the town of Plymouth serves as the modern

crossroads of the region, connecting Amador’s historic past with its vibrant wine culture. Here,

in the rolling hills of the Sierra foothills’ Shenandoah Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA),

vineyards flourish where prospectors once toiled, producing expressive wines — especially oldvine

zinfandel — that reflect the area’s rugged terrain and pioneering spirit. Together, Sutter Creek

and Plymouth tell the story of Amador County’s evolution, from the gold rush to a destination

defined by heritage, hospitality and wine.

Sutter Creek today

Although historic Sutter Creek was once a

lively mining town along the Mother Lode, it still

proudly displays its gold rush heritage with wellpreserved

buildings. Stroll down Main Street and

discover charming shops filled with curiosities, or

stop by one of the many wine tasting rooms and

enjoy a glass of wine from wineries that produce

a diverse range of varieties and styles of Amador

County wine.

If you get a chance to visit Sutter Creek in spring,

don't miss the Great Sutter Creek Duck Race. The

town is filled with yellow rubber ducks, and they

say, “The Quack is Back,” which is fun to watch.

This community event helps fund local projects.

People adopt a yellow rubber duck and take it

to Minnie Provis Park to race it down the creek.

These rubber ducks bring out the child in the

adults participating in the race.

Hotel Sutter Sign Sutter Creek Steeple –

One of the buildings along

Main Street, Sutter Creek.

History of Sutter Creek and Sutter's Mill

In 1846, John Sutter arrived in search of a new lumber source. His

water-powered mill was constructed by John W. Marshall in nearby

Coloma. In 1848, Marshall discovered gold, sparking California's

Gold Rush and leading to the growth of towns in the region.

Sutter Creek Main Street Corridor –

Strolling down Sutter Creek’s Main Street.

John Sutter also founded Sutter Creek in 1846. The town is known

as the "Jewel of the Mother Lode." It became one of the most

important gold rush towns. Sutter Creek gets its name from the

creek that flows through the town and from John Sutter. Over the

years, the town has been called Sutter’s Creek, Sutter, Sutterville

and, today, Sutter Creek.

Sutter Creek's prominence stemmed from being the main supply

hub for all the mines in the surrounding area, as those mines

produced some of the richest mother lodes. It was once a vibrant

mining town.

The Great Sutter Creek Duck Race is a once-a-year

event to raise money for a community cause.

The Sutter Creek Mural showcases the Gold Rush

when Sutter Creek was the Jewel of the Motherlode,

and today, with its food and wine.

42

43

The charming Victorian Styled Bella Grace Tasting

Room on Main Street in Sutter Creek.

The wines sampled at Yorba Tasting Room in Sutter Creek.

Wineries of Sutter

Creek: Bella Grace

Vineyards and

Yorba Wines

Bella Grace Vineyards is a family

affair started by Michael and

Charlie Havill. Coming from

corporate careers, they caught

the grape-growing bug and

purchased 50 acres in Plymouth,

in the heart of the Shenandoah

Valley. Twenty acres are planted

with primitivo, zinfandel,

grenache, vermentino, grenache

blanc, syrah, petite sirah and

mourvèdre. Today, the Havill’s

three sons join them in the

business.

The Bella Grace tasting room

is on Main Street in an old

Victorian house. My favorite

was the Graces Blanc, a blend

of viognier, grenache blanc and

sauvignon blanc.

The Yorba tasting room, with its

clean, modern design, is inviting

and located just off Main Street

in Sutter Creek. During our visit

to Yorba, we were fortunate to

meet Ann Kraemer, known as

"the vine tender." Her reputation

spans 25 years and includes

managing vineyards such as

Domaine Chandon, Swanson,

Cain, Calera, Hobbs and Shafer.

She now manages her family’s

Shake Ridge Vineyard, where

she farms small vineyard

blocks.

Working with winemaker Ken

Bernards, they have refined

a small, eclectic portfolio of

wines. My favorite was the

smoothly balanced zinfandel.

Plymouth and Taste

restaurant and bar

A drive to the town of Plymouth, known as the

gateway to Amador wine country, is worth it,

especially if you enjoy a meal at Taste Restaurant

and Bar. Chef Micah Malcolm’s cuisine is

divine. One must savor the Mushroom Cigar, a

signature appetizer at Taste. We enjoyed a fivecourse

meal.

Shenandoah Valley AVA

Today, that same pioneering spirit thrives in

the Sierra foothills, where elevation and warm

days and cool nights influence the wines of the

Shenandoah Valley AVA. Known mainly for oldvine

zinfandel, it is increasingly diversifying in

both varieties and styles. Here are some of the

wineries.

Sobon Wine

Leon and Shirley Sobon are pioneers of

Amador County. They started their Shenandoah

Vineyards in Plymouth in 1977. Leon started as

a home winemaker and became so enthralled

with winemaking that he retired from his job

at Lockheed to start the winery. By 1989, they

purchased the D'Agostini winery. Today, the

Sobon winery continues as a family business

with Paul Sobon as winemaker. The family’s

goals are sustainable farming on their 200

acres and natural winemaking.

Andis

In 2009, Janis Akuna and Andy Friedlander

bought a property in Plymouth that was planted

in the 1970s. Since then, they have planted 15

of their 25 acres and have farmed organically.

They hired Mark Fowler as winemaker and

built a modern, state-of-the-art winemaking

facility called Andis Wines. The goal is to

produce handcrafted wine that captures the

pure essence of its soil. Favorite wines include

semillon from Bill Dillian Vineyard and the

Friedlander Block Old Vine Zinfandel.

Taste Restaurant’s

signature appetizer

called Mushroom

Cigar.

A bottle of Andis

Wines Semillon

Bill Dillian

Vineyard.

Winemaker Mark Fowler

of Andis Wines holding

a bottle of wine.

Taste Restaurant in

Plymouth, CA Chef Micah

Malcom with Winemaker

Paul Sobon of Sobon Wine.

A bottle of Andis Wines

Old Vine Zinfandel,

Friedlander Block.

Owner/winemaker Ann Kraemer in her Yorba Tasting

Room with a bottle of wine.

44 45

Hotel Sutter:

Gold Rush

Charm,

Modern

Comfort

Hotel Sutter has been

around since 1858. Its

old-world charm, which

combines vintage appeal

with modern comforts,

is the hotel's soul. From

the gold rush era to

today, the hotel evokes

a sense of history while

meeting the needs of

contemporary guests.

Vineyard view at Terre Rouge

The charming vintage-style room at Hotel Sutter in Sutter Creek.

Bill Easton owner/winemaker of

Terre Rouge and Easton Wines

Terre Rouge & Easton Wines

Another pioneer in the area is Bill Easton. Bill and his wife, Jane

O’Riordan, founded Terre Rouge & Easton Wines in the late 1980s. Bill

worked at small vineyards in the 1970s and later opened the Solano

Cellars wine shop in Berkeley. Bill creates wines that are balanced and

elegant, with complexity that develops over time in the bottle. “The

French call it élevage, which is ‘raising’ the wine in the bottle.”

Other Things to See in Amador County

and Sutter Creek

Although this trip to Amador County mainly centered on wine, other activities in the

area include visiting Knight Foundry, the Amador Whitney Museum, Black Chasm

Caverns, Preston Castle, and the Kennedy Mine.

Terre Rouge means "red

earth," which aptly describes

the soils in the region of the

winery. Bill fell in love with

Rhone wines and made some

of the first Rhone-style wines

in the Sierra Foothills. He is

one of the founding members

of the Rhone Rangers. Terra

Rouge represents his Rhone

wines, while Easton stands

for his non-Rhone varieties.

From Gold To Grapes

in

Amador County

From the clang of pickaxes during the Gold Rush to the peaceful rhythm of vines deep in

granite soil, visitors uncover the California story when visiting Amador County's Shenandoah

Valley, Sutter Creek and Plymouth. It’s a journey through layers of California history. Gold

may have originally attracted settlers to the Sierra Foothills, but today it is the richness of

community, craftsmanship, and wine that defines the region. In Amador County, the pioneering

spirit persists, now expressed not by pickaxes and pans, but through vineyards, cellars, and

the warm welcomes extended to every traveler who comes to explore.

46

47

When music takes over an island:

Dominica during the

World Creole Music Festival

Story and Photos by Rosalind Stefanac

For three nights each October, the Caribbean

island of Dominica undergoes a dramatic

transformation. Streets stay busy until sunrise,

the bass line from the concert stadium pulses

through the capital city, and visitors quickly

learn that sleep is something they'll recoup

later. What unfolds during the World Creole

Music Festival (WCMF) isn’t simply a concert

series, but a full cultural takeover—one my

husband and I were thrilled (and slightly dazed)

to experience first-hand this past October.

Dominica is often mistaken for its larger

neighbor, the Dominican Republic, but

the two could not be more different. This

small, mountainous island sits in the

eastern Caribbean between Guadeloupe and

Martinique, part of the Lesser Antilles. With

a population of just over 70,000, Dominica

is defined less by sprawling resorts and

beaches than by rainforest-covered peaks,

volcanic terrain, and a fiercely protected

natural environment. It’s rugged, humid,

intensely green—and during festival week it’s

electrifying.

The WCMF, held in the capital city of Roseau,

has grown into a cornerstone of the island’s

cultural calendar. Last year marked its 25th

anniversary, and attending made it immediately

clear just how far its reach now extends. Over

the course of the weekend, I joined more than

40,000 concertgoers arriving from across the

Caribbean, North America, and Europe, filling

hotels, guesthouses, and late-night food stalls,

and turning Roseau into a temporary, highenergy

crossroads.

A Festival That Defines

The Destination

Red-lit rhythms

and island energy

electrify the crowd.

At Windsor Park Sports Stadium, the crowd itself

became part of the performance. Teenagers danced

beside middle-aged music lovers who had followed

these sounds for decades; visitors like me moved

easily among locals, welcomed into a communal

space where participation mattered more than polish.

I wasn’t watching from the sidelines—I was pulled in,

swept up, learning rhythms on the fly.

Created to spotlight Creole music and culture,

Festival

the WCMF remains fiercely rooted in its

newbies

purpose. Over three nights, dozens of acts took

Rosalind

and Damir

to the stage, spanning bouyon, cadence-lypso,

gear up for

The first of

reggae, soca, dancehall, and Afro-Caribbean

another

three nights

fusion. The programming brought together

all-nighter.

of music

established regional artists, emerging voices,

and dancing

til dawn—

and legacy performers, creating a musical

confetti, flags

throughline that reflects Dominica’s place

48 and pure joy.

within the wider Creole world.

49

As each night pushed toward

dawn, the festival grounds

took on a life of their own.

Food vendors served well past

midnight, offering aromatic

Creole staples like callaloo soup,

yam fritters, and fried chicken

and fish slicked with spicy

sauce. Conversations sparked

easily between strangers

between sets. The music

anchored the experience, but it

was the shared energy—loud,

physical, and generous—that

kept us going long after our feet

protested.

Experiencing

Dominica

Between Sets

Even on little sleep, we felt

compelled to explore more

of Dominica between festival

nights. Aptly nicknamed “The

Nature Island,” it’s shaped by

volcanic peaks, dense rainforest,

and more than 300 rivers. Unlike

many Caribbean destinations,

much of its interior remains

undeveloped, which felt like

a welcome counterbalance to

the nocturnal pulse of festival

nights.

Natural hot springs such as

Ti Kwen Glo Cho, tucked into

the forest above the village of

Wotten Waven, offered relief for

our sleep-deprived muscles. A

boat journey along the Indian

River revealed a quieter, almost

cinematic side of the island,

where mangroves arch overhead,

and local guides weave together

history, folklore, and film trivia—

several scenes from Pirates of

the Caribbean were filmed here.

50

Grammy-winning reggae band Steel Pulse is a festival favourite.

Inland, narrow gorges such as

Titou Gorge invite exploration,

while waterfalls like Trafalgar

Falls and Emerald Pool

reward those willing to trade

late mornings for immersive

adventures. It’s not a place that

rushes you—and that contrast,

between high-energy nights and

restorative, nature-driven days,

is part of the magic.

Rather than existing in isolation,

the World Creole Music Festival

encourages travelers to engage

more deeply with the island

itself. Many visitors extend their

stays, drawn beyond Roseau to

experience the landscapes that

shape daily life here.

Where To Stay

During

Festival Season

Lodging options across Dominica

are varied and surprisingly

distinctive. In Roseau, we stayed

at Fort Young Hotel, a beautifully

transformed historic military fort

perched on the waterfront that

was walking distance from the

festival grounds—a practical

choice during late nights when

convenience mattered.

After the festival, we headed

north to the InterContinental Dominica

Cabrits Resort & Spa, where the

pace slowed considerably. Set

Musical acts like KES bring soca energy as attendees capture every moment.

within Cabrits National Park, the

resort offered a secluded base

surrounded by forest and sea—

exactly what we needed after

several nights of dancing until

dawn.

For travelers seeking privacy

and architectural flair, ecoluxury

properties such as

Secret Bay highlight Dominica's

growing appeal among those

interested in sustainability,

wellness, and design. Across the

island, accommodations tend

to emphasize environmental

integration and local materials,

reinforcing the sense that tourism

here is meant to complement—

rather than overwhelm—the

landscape.

A Destination

For Travelers

Who Want More

What sets Dominica apart during

the World Creole Music Festival

is how seamlessly culture,

environment, and community

intersect. For three days, the

music feels inseparable from

the people who create it and the

terrain that shapes daily life on

the island.

Even logistical challenges—like

a sudden downpour on the third

night—were handled with ease.

Concert staff quickly distributed

ponchos so the crowd could

keep dancing.

For travelers accustomed to

Caribbean itineraries defined by

predictability, Dominica offers

something much more dynamic.

The island demands flexibility,

whether that means embracing

late nights, navigating winding

roads, or adjusting plans around

weather and terrain. In return,

it delivers experiences that

feel unfiltered and genuinely

memorable.

Perhaps the festival’s greatest

impact is how it reframes

Dominica itself. It reveals a

welcoming island confident in

its identity and uninterested in

becoming anyone else’s version

of the Caribbean.

For travelers willing to follow the

music—and then venture beyond

it—Dominica offers a rare

combination: celebration without

pretense, nature without artifice

and a sense of place that lingers

long after the final note fades.

Find information on Dominica's

World Creole Music Festival at

https://dominicafestivals.com/wcmfhome/.

51

TravelWorld International Magazine Spring 2026

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