(54) The Cultured Traveller, June-August 2026, Issue 54
Travelling this summer undoubtedly feels different to how it did last year. Routes have shifted, timetables have changed, some established destinations are currently out of bounds, and flying in the coming months may demand greater patience and flexibility. Yet perhaps this uncertainty is not entirely unwelcome, and offers something valuable in return, encouraging us to look beyond the obvious, reconsider places once overlooked, and pursue journeys with greater curiosity and imagination. Indeed, many of today’s most rewarding experiences are found not in destinations dominating social media feeds, but in cities, regions and cultural institutions quietly evolving with confidence and authenticity. Increasingly, seasoned travellers are seeking substance over spectacle, depth over immediacy, and encounters fashioned less by trends than by character. This issue of The Cultured Traveller embraces precisely this spirit of discovery. On our cover, LUCERNE is far more than a picturesque Swiss lakeside city. Framed by mountains and shaped by centuries of history, Demelza Oxley discovers one of Central Europe’s most graceful urban destinations, where medieval streets, grand architecture and lakefront serenity combine with unmistakable Swiss assurance. Across the Pond, Monika Tramś visits Manhattan’s expanded NEW MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, where architecture, identity and artistic experimentation intersect within one of New York’s most forward-thinking cultural institutions. Meanwhile in Scotland, Niall Palmer explores GLASGOW, a city whose Victorian grandeur, influential music scene and flourishing creative energy establishes it amongst Britain’s most compelling metropolitan escapes. Elsewhere, Kevin Pilley ventures through Maharashtra, where India’s evolving wine industry is gradually establishing sophistication and individuality through vineyards and producers challenging long-held assumptions surrounding viticulture on the subcontinent. And Nicholas Chrisostomou takes a pew at SHIKI OMAKASE's eight-seat counter, where Japanese precision, hushed theatricality and exceptional sushi come together in one of the Austrian capital’s most memorable dining experiences.
Travelling this summer undoubtedly feels different to how it did last year. Routes have shifted, timetables have changed, some established destinations are currently out of bounds, and flying in the coming months may demand greater patience and flexibility. Yet perhaps this uncertainty is not entirely unwelcome, and offers something valuable in return, encouraging us to look beyond the obvious, reconsider places once overlooked, and pursue journeys with greater curiosity and imagination.
Indeed, many of today’s most rewarding experiences are found not in destinations dominating social media feeds, but in cities, regions and cultural institutions quietly evolving with confidence and authenticity. Increasingly, seasoned travellers are seeking substance over spectacle, depth over immediacy, and encounters fashioned less by trends than by character.
This issue of The Cultured Traveller embraces precisely this spirit of discovery. On our cover, LUCERNE is far more than a picturesque Swiss lakeside city. Framed by mountains and shaped by centuries of history, Demelza Oxley discovers one of Central Europe’s most graceful urban destinations, where medieval streets, grand architecture and lakefront serenity combine with unmistakable Swiss assurance.
Across the Pond, Monika Tramś visits Manhattan’s expanded NEW MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, where architecture, identity and artistic experimentation intersect within one of New York’s most forward-thinking cultural institutions. Meanwhile in Scotland, Niall Palmer explores GLASGOW, a city whose Victorian grandeur, influential music scene and flourishing creative energy establishes it amongst Britain’s most compelling metropolitan escapes.
Elsewhere, Kevin Pilley ventures through Maharashtra, where India’s evolving wine industry is gradually establishing sophistication and individuality through vineyards and producers challenging long-held assumptions surrounding viticulture on the subcontinent. And Nicholas Chrisostomou takes a pew at SHIKI OMAKASE's eight-seat counter, where Japanese precision, hushed theatricality and exceptional sushi come together in one of the Austrian capital’s most memorable dining experiences.
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➤ ISSUE 54
JUNE - AUGUST 2026
UK £10 EU €10
Lucerne
SWITZERLAND‘S MOST ATMOSPHERIC CITY
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48 SWITZERLAND'S MOST ATMOSPHERIC CITY
Surrounded by soaring Alpine peaks and anchored by one of Switzerland’s most beautiful lakes, LUCERNE
possesses a rare sense of composure and balance. From medieval towers and frescoed façades to cutting edge
cultural spaces and mountain railways climbing dramatically above the clouds, Demelza Oxley discovers a city
where history, craftsmanship, nature and contemporary creativity exist in effortless harmony.
21 A REGAL LIFE OBSERVED THROUGH CLOTHING
At Buckingham Palace’s King’s Gallery, a major new exhibition charts the remarkable life of QUEEN
ELIZABETH II through more than 300 garments, accessories and personal items, moving from childhood
and post war couture, to the ensembles that became synonymous with her reign.
86 SCOTLAND’S CULTURAL POWERHOUSE
Shaped by centuries of industry, reinvention and creativity, GLASGOW today stands as one of Britain’s most
compelling urban destinations. Through grand Victorian architecture, contemporary art, music, design
and atmospheric neighbourhoods, Niall Palmer explores a Scottish city whose warmth, cultural energy and
unmistakable identity leave a lasting impression.
116 OMAKASE DINING IN THE AUSTRIAN CAPITAL
Hidden discreetly behind a boutique in central Vienna, SHIKI OMAKASE offers a refined and immersive take
on traditional Japanese dining. From meticulously prepared nigiri and exceptional sake pairings to the calm
precision of the chefs working just metres away, Nicholas Chrisostomou experiences an omakase meal where
restraint, craftsmanship and atmosphere are in perfect balance.
46 WIN A FOUR NIGHT STAY IN HONG KONG
Recently reimagined by celebrated designer Chi Wing Lo, REGENT HONG KONG combines cinematic
harbour views with understated elegance and deeply personalised hospitality. The lucky winner of issue 54’s
prize draw will enjoy four nights in a luxurious Victoria Harbour view room complete with daily breakfasts
and access to the hotel’s wellness facilities and pool terrace.
Just outside Lucerne, the Mount Pilatus range consists of
several peaks, the highest being Tomlishorn at 2,128 metres
21
67
116
46
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86
CONTENTS
10 CONTRIBUTORS
12 EDITOR’S LETTER
14 NEWSFLASH
From sacred rituals and centuries
old traditions to world class art
exhibitions and high-octane festivals,
this summer is a veritable celebration
of culture in all its forms. Across
continents, cities and landscapes
come alive with sound, colour and
storytelling, as we round up the most
compelling events of the months
ahead, alongside a curated selection
of standout cultural highlights.
30 REST YOUR HEAD
From the design led energy of THE
LAKE COMO EDITION and Adriatic
grandeur of AMAN SVETI STEFAN,
to the Aegean stillness of AMOH
on Rhodes and untamed wilderness
surrounding MBAMBA in Botswana,
The Cultured Traveller visits twelve
new hotels where destination, character
and a strong sense of place define
every stay.
67 SUITE ENVY
Just outside Lecce, Nicholas
Chrisostomou checks into The Queen
Suite at CASTLE ELVIRA, where
restored historic detailing, collected
art, and cinematic Italian glamour
come together in theatrical harmony.
74 CITY FOCUS
Few European capitals present such
an intact and coherent architectural
narrative as PRAGUE, where Gothic,
Renaissance and Baroque grandeur
coexist with contemporary art,
evolving gastronomy and a quietly
modernising cultural pulse.
8 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
35 74
101 ART CULTURE
At the NEW MUSEUM OF
CONTEMPORARY ART in Manhattan,
a major expansion and a thoughtprovoking
reopening exhibition
reframe the relationship between art,
architecture and human identity, as
Monika Tramś explores an institution
defined by evolution.
112 TASTE & SIP NEWCOMER
Within Corinthia London at celebrated
Calabrian chef Francesco Mazzei’s
new restaurant, MEZZOGIORNO, the
spirit of Southern Italy is brought to
life through generous cooking, warm
hospitality, and theatrical surrounds.
120 TASTE & SIP
WINE CULTURE
Kevin Pilley ventures along INDIA’S
EVOLVING WINE TRAIL, where a
once improbable industry is gradually
finding both confidence and character,
and is redefining the country’s
viticulture landscape.
126 RETAIL THERAPY
With seasoned globetrotters moving
ever more frequently and with greater
discernment, selecting the right travel
essentials is increasingly about quality,
longevity and functionality. Researched
and road-tested, The Cultured
Traveller's curated selection brings
together key pieces built to last and
designed to perform.
139 LITTLE BLACK BOOK
Web addresses for everywhere featured
in issue 54 of The Cultured Traveller.
140 TRAVEL TIPS AT THE TOP
With a career spanning film, fashion,
art and visual storytelling, we ask
award-winning filmmaker HARVEY
B-BROWN twelve questions about
packing well, flying in comfort, and
the destinations that continue to fuel
his imagination.
64
112
40
48
DEMELZA OXLEY
➤ COVER STORY ➤ LUCERNE
British-born and currently thriving in Copenhagen,
freelance product designer Demelza channels her
spare time into globetrotting and exploring her
passions for design, nature, and gastronomy.
She has visited almost 60 countries, and her
impressive portfolio includes work for Bang &
Olufsen, not to mention crafting materials for use
in British Airways First Class suites.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
PUBLISHER NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
DESIGN TAHIR IQBAL
EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON, LISA WEYMAN
ADVERTISING JEREMY GORING
RETOUCHING STELLA ALEVIZAKI
THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS
Demelza Oxley, Howard Healy, Niall Palmer
Laila Bosco, Kevin Pilley, Adrian Gibson
WITH THANKS TO
Luzern Tourismus AG, Marcel Perren, Sheryl Hauser
Christoph Franzen, Tobias Holliger, Fox Comms
Theresa Langmann of PR International
CONTRIBUTORS
LAILA BOSCO
➤ COVER STORY ➤ LUCERNE
Based in Lucerne, Swiss photographer and writer
Laila is drawn to people and stories that inspire
her. With a notebook in her backpack and a camera
in her hand, she can often be found wandering
through the alleys of Lucerne’s Old Town, along
Lake Lucerne, and into the mountains of central
Switzerland, capturing whatever interests her.
MONIKA TRAMŚ
➤ ART CULTURE ➤ NEW MUSUEUM, NYC
Warsaw-based Monika is a keen traveller and
often jets between the Polish capital, New York,
and Spain to visit cultural institutions and new
museums, exploring how design, culture and
architecture shape contemporary life. Day-to-day,
her work combines creative vision with strategic
thinking, redefining experience, aesthetics and the
emotional dimensions of modern living.
The Cultured Traveller
is a British publication headquartered in London
Editorial ➤ words@theculturedtraveller.com
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Issue 54 of The Cultured Traveller
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THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
COCO LATTÉ, 5 MERCHANT SQUARE
LONDON W2 1AY, UNITED KINGDOM
COVER: Lucerne’s 15th century Spreuer Bridge crossing the
Reuss River at the western edge of the city’s Old Town.
Photographed by Laila Bosco.
10 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
From left to right: Lucerne; New Museum of
Contemporary Art, New York; Wellington Statue,
Glasgow; SHIKI Omakase, Vienna
EDITOR’S LETTER
TRAVELLING THIS
summer undoubtedly feels
different to how it did last
year. Routes have shifted,
timetables have changed,
some established destinations
are currently out of bounds,
and flying in the coming
months may demand greater
patience and flexibility. Yet
perhaps this uncertainty is not
entirely unwelcome, and offers
something valuable in return,
encouraging us to look beyond
the obvious, reconsider places
once overlooked, and pursue
journeys with greater curiosity
and imagination.
INDEED, MANY OF TODAY’S MOST
rewarding experiences are found not in
destinations dominating social media feeds,
but in cities, regions and cultural institutions
quietly evolving with confidence and authenticity.
Increasingly, seasoned travellers are seeking
substance over spectacle, depth over immediacy, and
encounters shaped less by trends than by character.
THIS ISSUE OF THE CULTURED
Traveller embraces precisely that spirit of
discovery. On our cover, Lucerne is far more than
a picturesque Swiss lakeside city. Framed by
mountains and shaped by centuries of history,
Demelza Oxley discovers one of Central Europe’s
most graceful urban destinations, where medieval
streets, grand architecture and lakefront serenity
combine with unmistakable Swiss assurance
(page 48).
ACROSS THE POND, MONIKA TRAMŚ
visits Manhattan’s expanded New Museum of
Contemporary Art, where architecture, identity
and artistic experimentation
intersect within one of New
York’s most forward-thinking
cultural institutions (page 101).
Meanwhile in Scotland, Niall
Palmer explores Glasgow, a
city whose Victorian grandeur,
influential music scene and
flourishing creative energy
establishes it amongst Britain’s
most compelling metropolitan
escapes (page 86).
ELSEWHERE, KEVIN
Pilley ventures through
Maharashtra, where India’s
evolving wine industry
is gradually establishing sophistication and
individuality through vineyards and producers
challenging long-held assumptions surrounding
viticulture on the subcontinent (page 120). And in
Vienna, I take a pew at SHIKI Omakase's eightseat
counter, where Japanese precision, hushed
theatricality and exceptional sushi come together
in one of the Austrian capital’s most memorable
dining experiences (page 116).
WHEREVER THE COMING MONTHS
may take you, whether across continents or
perhaps somewhere unexpectedly close to home, I
sincerely hope this issue inspires fresh discoveries,
meaningful encounters and enduring memories
this summer.
Nicholas Chrisostomou
Editor-in-Chief
@TCTEditor
nicholas@theculturedtraveller.com
12 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
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FROM SACRED RITUALS AND CENTURIES OLD TRADITIONS TO
WORLD CLASS ART EXHIBITIONS AND HIGH-OCTANE FESTIVALS,
THIS SUMMER IS A VERITABLE CELEBRATION OF CULTURE IN ALL
ITS FORMS. ACROSS CONTINENTS, CITIES AND LANDSCAPES COME ALIVE
WITH SOUND, COLOUR AND STORYTELLING, AS THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ROUNDS
UP THE MOST COMPELLING EVENTS OF THE MONTHS AHEAD, ALONGSIDE A CURATED
SELECTION OF STANDOUT CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS HAPPENING AROUND THE WORLD
DISTORTION
FESTIVAL OF SAINT-DENIS
HOSTED INSIDE THE perform side-by-side with prestigious
Basilica Saint-Denis, a Parisian orchestral acts plus some of the
masterpiece of Gothic greatest artists on the international classical
art, this standout
circuit. Highlights of this year’s 52nd edition
classical music festival is a very good excuse include the renowned British acappella vocal
to cross the périphérique and discover a
ensemble, The King's Singers; Vox Luminis,
delightful northern Parisian suburb. A main one of the finest European Baroque vocal
event in the French cultural calendar since ensembles; The Orchestre National de Lille,
1968, the festival is organised by the city of led by Alpesh Chauhan; Egyptian soprano
Saint-Denis under the auspices of the
Fatma Saïd, and Le Cercle de l'Harmonie,
Île-de-France region, the French Ministry of conducted by Jérémie Rhorer, which will
Culture and Communication, Le Centre des perform Mozart's Great Mass in C minor.
Monuments Nationaux and Radio France. Until 23 June 2026
International conductors and soloists
https://festival-saint-denis.com
FOR MORE THAN 25 YEARS,
Distortion has been pushing
the limits of Copenhagen’s
party culture, attracting
DJs from across the globe and annually filling
the city centre with thousands of revellers. Today
Distortion is an over-the-top music extravaganza
that offers mammoth street parties during the
day, intimate club events by night (Distortion
Club) and, to round off the whole thing in suitably
loud fashion, a two-day weekend rave held at
Copenhagen’s harbour (Distortion Ø). Being such
an eco-friendly city, the street festivities are
financed by partygoers purchasing a //
Gadearmbåndet// street bracelet, so that the
Distortion crew can properly clean up once the
musical mayhem has ended. This year’s weekend
finale, Distortion Ø, is headlined by techno leader
Sara Landry (playing Friday 5 June), along with
Anetha, Carlita, and Kevin Saunderson.
Meanwhile electronic highlights include
Interplanetary Criminal (UK Garage), MCR-T
(Saturday 6 June), and WhoMadeWho playing a
hybrid DJ set.
3–7 June 2026
www.cphdistortion.dk
14 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
NEWSFLASH
REGATTA OF
ST. RANIERI
THE SECOND PART OF
an annual celebration
which takes place on
Saint Ranieri’s feast
day, the first regatta was held in Pisa in
1292, during the Palio of Our Lady of the
Assumption. Since then, every year, Pisa
stages a 1,500-metre dash up the River Arno
in celebration of San Ranieri, the city's
patron saint. In memory of the city’s nautical
traditions, four narrow rowing boats, each
differently coloured to represent the city’s
four main districts, challenge each other in a
flamboyant race. Each boat resembles a
large gondola, is fashioned in the style of the
frigates of the Medicean Order of the
Knights of St. Stephen founded in 1561 and is
crewed by eight oarsmen, a helmsman and a
montatore. Rowing against the river's
natural current, the race starts near the
bridge used by trains to cross the river, and
ends in front of the Palazzo Medici, near the
Ponte della Fortezza.
17 June 2026
SOLSTICE FEST
FOR THOUSANDS OF
years, Stonehenge has
been a place of worship
and celebration,
especially at the time of the summer
solstice. Literally meaning a stopping
or standing still of the sun, the summer
solstice is when the sun is directly above
the northern hemisphere, indicating
midsummer. For time immemorial, it has
been celebrated by everyone from ancient
druids performing rituals at stone circles,
to new-age neo-Pagan hippie revellers,
and even modern-day scientists. Held
within the vicinity of the prehistoric site
of Stonehenge, this five-day festival is the
one and only camping and live music event
close to the renowned World Heritage Site,
and provides a rare chance for members
of the general public to walk amongst the
ancient stone circle. This year the festival
will be headlined by The Dolmen, who
blend ancient myth with driving Celtic rock,
weaving pounding drums, electrified strings
and raw vocal power into songs that feel both
timeless and alive.
18–22 June 2026
https://stonehengefestivals.co.uk
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
15
NEWSFLASH
SÓNAR
MUSIC IS, BY FAR, THE
main focus of this annual
award-winning music
extravaganza held in
Barcelona, which began in 1994 as a networking
opportunity for the music industry. Officially
billed as a festival of progressive music and
multimedia art, Sónar now attracts tens of
thousands of lovers of electronica, who visit the
Catalan capital to worship cutting-edge artists
and DJs and enjoy avant-garde music and
spectacular multimedia art exhibitions. Sónar
features a somewhat eclectic mix of music,
technology and art, divided into two parts: Sónar
by Day includes workshops and exhibitions as
well as concerts, while the main event, Sónar by
Night, comprises a series of extraordinary
spectacles, with all activity concentrated at Fira
Gran Via for both day and night sessions.
Headlining this year's action will be British rave
legends The Prodigy, making their long-awaited
Sónar debut on the Saturday, while grime artist
Skepta headlines Friday. Queens of techno,
Charlotte de Witte and Amelie Lens, return with
new, dedicated audio-visual shows. And R&B
icon Kelis will make her Sónar debut.
18–20 June 2026
https://sonar.es/en
DUANWU JIÉ
THE ANNUAL SIGHT
of China’s rivers filled with
colourful vessels decked
out to look like dragons,
complete with fearsome snouts and scaly tails,
only means one thing: the annual dragon boat
festival. Whilst this flamboyant event is
moreover a great deal of fun, the festival’s roots
lie in tragedy, since it commemorates Qu Yuan, a
revered humanitarian politician and poet, who
drowned himself in the Miluo River in 278 BC, to
protest against the Qin state’s invasion of his
land. The dismayed common people took to their
boats and tried to keep the fish and evil spirits
away from Qu Yuan, by splashing their oars and
beating drums. Qin eventually conquered all of
its rival states and created China, but the
patriotic poet is nonetheless honoured. One of
the best places to catch Duanwu Jié and cheer
on the contestants as they row frantically
towards the finish line, is the Miluo River in the
southern province of Húnán, where Qu Yuan
unfortunately met his end.
19 June 2026
https://travelchina.org.cn/en
16 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
TRACEY EMIN: A SECOND LIFE
AT LONDON'S TATE MODERN,
Tracey Emin: A Second Life is
the most comprehensive
survey ever staged of the
British artist’s uncompromising, deeply personal
oeuvre. Spanning four decades, the exhibition brings
together more than one hundred works across
painting, neon, film, textile and sculpture, tracing a life
lived with rare candour and creative urgency.
Structured as both chronology and confession,
the show begins with early pieces that established
Emin’s unmistakable voice, including intimate video
works and fragile remnants of destroyed paintings.
From there, it moves through the emotional terrain
of her Margate upbringing, where memory,
vulnerability and identity are laid bare with
disarming directness. Recurring themes of love,
trauma and resilience surface in works that
confront subjects often left unspoken, rendered
through Emin’s raw visual language.
At its core sit two defining installations, My Bed
and Exorcism of the Last Painting I Ever Made,
marking a shift from collapse to renewal. More
recent works, including new bronzes and expansive
paintings, reflect a body reshaped by illness and a
spirit resolutely oriented towards the present. It is,
ultimately, a portrait not just of an artist, but of
survival itself.
Until 31 August 2026
https://tate.org.uk/visit
PHOTO: ©️ TATE (JAI MONAGHAN)
My Bed (1998) and It’s Not Me That’s Crying It's My Soul (2001)
RED BULL
SOAPBOX RACE
A UNIQUE NO-HOLDSbarred
downhill race
spectacle, in which drivers
use only gravity and
courage as fuel (plus perhaps a certain energy
drink), Red Bull has held well over 100 soapbox
races around the world since the first took
place in Brussels in 2000. Now an international
event staged everywhere from Australia to Italy,
amateur drivers race homemade engine-less
vehicles in a colourful downhill battle in front of
thousands of enthusiastic fans. This unique,
non-motorised racing event challenges both
experienced racers and amateurs alike to
design and build outrageous dream machines
and compete against the clock. Over the years,
previous entries have included a piano, a giant
baby carriage, a rodeo clown, a massive corn on
the cob, a jail cell and even the Golden Gate
Bridge. At this summer’s Red Bull Soapbox Race
at London’s Alexandra Palace, teams will be
judged on speed, creativity and showmanship.
This assumes, of course, that they make it to the
finish line!
20 June 2026
www.redbull.com/gb-en/events
PRIDE NEW YORK
EARLY IN THE MORNING
of 28 June 1969, police
raided the Stonewall Inn,
a gay bar in New York’s
West Village. The ensuing Stonewall riots
lasted several days and are considered to be
the beginning of the modern gay rights
movement. The first gay pride march was held
in 1970 and has become an annual civil rights
demonstration around the world. Over the
years its purpose has broadened to include
recognition of the fight against AIDS and to
remember those the community lost to illness,
violence and neglect. Pride New York is now a
massive celebration, attended by tens of
thousands and watched by even more. This
year, a full week of activities, festivities,
concerts and shows will culminate in a
show-stopping, carnival-like march through
the streets of New York on Saturday 28 June,
when the city’s gay community will be
celebrating its resilience and energy.
28 June 2026
https://nycpride.org
18 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
NEWSFLASH
BATALLA DEL VINO
EVERY YEAR ON ST.
Pedro’s Feast Day in
Haro – the capital of
northern Spain’s
Rioja-producing region – thousands of thirsty
locals, together with wine-loving tourists, climb
a mountain and literally throw wine all over
each other. Some brandish giant water pistols
loaded with wine. Others are armed with
pump-action super-soakers or spray cans
filled with wine. Meanwhile traditionalists opt
for gourds, buckets, bottles and even old
boots! Rather than a common-or-garden
feast day, locals refer to this messy event as
La Batalla de Vino de Haro, or, quite simply,
the “Wine Fight”. While the main event
happens annually on the day of the patron
saint San Pedro, the liquid madness actually
kicks-off the previous night on 28 June. And
as the proceedings unfold, pretty much all of
the townsfolk – from the little ones through
to their grandparents – gather outdoors in
Haro’s cobbled streets and quite literally
paint the town red with wine.
29 June 2026
https://batalladelvino.com
KIRKPINAR OIL
WRESTLING
THIS LONG-RUNNING TRADITION
was reportedly conceived by
Ottoman raiders, whose military
commander, Süleyman Pasa,
would let his bored soldiers unwind by wrestling, in
between bouts of actual fighting. According to legend,
on one particularly memorable occasion, as the
Ottoman army was returning to its Asian stronghold
in Bursa after conquering parts of Thrace, 40 men
scuffled all at once, with the two fiercest fighters
going at each other until both collapsed and died of
exhaustion. When the remaining army had conquered
Edirne, the victors referred to the 40 soldiers in the
name of Kirkpinar, near Edirne in Western Turkey,
where the wrestling competition has taken place
every summer since 1346. Now in its 665th outing, the
idea is to prevent your opponent from getting a good
grip, so more than 100 barrels of oil are used during the
tournament. With a solid gold belt awarded to the victor
there’s everything to play for, resulting in some seriously
no-holds-barred wrestling, and contestants literally
grabbing anything to win! .
29 June – 5 July 2026
https://goturkiye.com
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
19
NATIONAL FESTIVAL OF
POPULAR ARTS
IN THE HEIGHT OF SUMMER,
Marrakech transforms into
a vivid showcase of
Morocco’s cultural heritage
during the National Festival of Popular Arts.
First conceived in 1960 to preserve and
promote the country’s intangible traditions, the
event brings together performers from across
the kingdom, from the Atlas Mountains to the
desert plains, each presenting distinct music,
dance and ceremonial practices shaped by
centuries of regional identity. Performances
unfold in a series of atmospheric settings, most
notably within the vast courtyard of El Badi
Palace, where flickering torchlight and rhythmic
percussion create an evocative stage. Here,
ensembles perform Ahwach, Gnaoua and
Aissawa, their hypnotic chants reverberating
through the historic ruins. Beyond the formal
programme, the wider city comes alive with
impromptu displays of storytelling and music,
reinforcing Marrakech’s long standing role as a
meeting point of cultures. More than a festival,
it is a living expression of collective memory,
offering a rare and compelling insight into the
depth and diversity of Moroccan tradition.
2–6 July 2026
https://visitmarrakech.com
FIESTA DE SAN
FERMÍN
EVERY YEAR, THOUSANDS OF
Pamploneses (people from
Pamplona), plus countless
visitors who flood into the
pretty Spanish town from all over the world, all
dressed from head to toe in immaculate white
clothing with red handkerchiefs tied around their
necks, fill the streets of Pamplona to celebrate the
week of festivities in honour of San Fermín, also
known as Los Sanfermines. The festival of San
Fermín mixes a variety of contrasts: official and
popular culture, religion and profanity, new and old
and, as is often the case with a Spanish festival,
order and chaos. Celebrations kick off with the
launch of a rocket (el chupinazo) in Pamplona’s
Plaza Ayuntamiento at noon on 6 July and end nine
days later on 14 July. Every day includes a much
publicised bull-run, a parade of colourful gigantes
or cabezudos (big headed giants), a bullfight,
fireworks, obligatory carousing and a copious
amount of non-stop partying.
6–14 July 2026
www.sanfermin.com
20 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
QUEEN ELIZABETH II:
HER LIFE IN STYLE
AT BUCKINGHAM PALACE'S
King's Gallery, Queen Elizabeth II:
Her Life in Style offers a richly
layered exploration of a regal life
observed, in most part, through clothing. Presented to
mark the centenary of her birth, the exhibition brings
together more than 300 garments and accessories
from the late Queen’s wardrobe, many of which are
being shown publicly for the first time.
Moving from her earliest years to the final decades
of her reign, the display charts a thoughtful progression
in style, from delicate childhood pieces and post-war
couture to the assured, vividly coloured ensembles that
came to define her presence. Milestone garments sit
alongside quieter, more personal items, including
jewellery gifted by family and pieces adapted for
significant moments in her private life, offering a rare
sense of proximity to the woman behind the public role.
From archival materials and handwritten notes to
fabric swatches and the bejewelled gowns, everything
on display points to a monarch closely involved in the
creation of her wardrobe, shaping a visual language
that balanced duty and loyalty with individuality and
national symbolism.
Until 18 October 2026
www.rct.uk/visit
©️ ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST. PHOTOGRAPHER: PAUL BULLEY
1957 evening gown by Sir Norman Hartnell
in the Green Drawing Room at Windsor Castle
NEWSFLASH
RATH YATRA
ONE OF INDIA’S LARGEST
and most important Hindu
festivals, Rath Yatra
routinely draws more than a
million pilgrims and devotees to the streets of
Puri. Over the years, poets, saints and
scriptures have consistently praised the good
fortune associated with attending this “festival
of the chariots”, since it is one of the only times
annually that the deities leave the temple of
Jagannath and are exposed to non-Hindus and
visitors. The three figurines that make the trip
are Jagannath (considered to be the lord of the
universe and an incarnation of Vishnu, the god of
preservation), his older brother Balabhadra, and
their sister Subhadra. They travel more than a
mile in elaborate wooden chariots from
Jagannath Temple to Gundicha Temple, where
they remain for nine days. During the loud
procession, pilgrims vie for even a glimpse of the
gods, since they’re associated with extreme good
fortune and the righting of wrongs.
16 July 2026
www.rathyatra.org
VERBIER FESTIVAL
FOUNDED IN 1994 BY
Martin Engstroem, the
Verbier Festival has since
garnered a worldwide
reputation for artistic excellence and is now
considered to be one of Europe's most
important music gatherings. Every July, the
greatest names in classical music circles
gather for two weeks amongst the
breathtaking landscapes of the Swiss Alps, for
an exceptional series of dozens of concerts
featuring choirs, orchestras and intimate
recitals. In addition to showcasing worldrenowned
performers, promising new artists
and talented young musicians from all over the
world are invited to perform alongside their
grand masters. This year, a re-imagined
programme calling for peace, solidarity and
the inclusion of musicians from all nations
opens the festival on 15 July, with Italian
conductor Gianandrea Noseda conducting the
Verbier Festival Orchestra in a concert that
features Shostakovich’s Fourth Symphony
preceded by Rodion Shchedrin’s Second Piano
Concerto and Silvestrov's poignant work,
Prayer for Ukraine. At the piano will be
Ukrainian pianist Anna Fedorova, an alumna of
the Verbier Festival Academy.
16 July – 2 August 2026
https://verbierfestival.com
22 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
NEWSFLASH
SALZBURG FESTIVAL
FRAMED BY THE ELEGANT
Baroque architecture of
Salzburg’s old town, one
of Europe’s most revered
cultural gatherings returns with a programme
of remarkable breadth and refinement.
Founded in 1920, the Salzburg Festival has
become a defining fixture of the classical
music and performing arts calendar,
attracting leading orchestras, conductors
and performers from around the world. Opera
remains at the heart of the festival, staged in
venues such as the Grosses Festspielhaus
and the striking Felsenreitschule, where
productions unfold with both scale and
precision. Alongside these, orchestral
concerts and chamber recitals provide
moments of intimacy, while theatre
performances add further depth. Throughout,
the city itself becomes inseparable from the
experience, its streets animated by visitors
moving between performances, cafés and
historic squares. What distinguishes Salzburg
is not simply the calibre of its programme, but
the sense of continuity it offers, a dialogue
between tradition and reinvention played out
in a setting that feels entirely fitting for
cultural reflection.
17 July – 30 August 2026
www.salzburgerfestspiele.at
TOMORROWLAND
TOMORROWLAND IS THE
ultimate annual electronic
dance music festival for
many. Held in De Schorre,
the sheer extravagance of this festival, with its
psychedelic motifs and spectacular stages, gets
everyone going right from the start, and the energy
basically never stops. Coupled with open fields
filled with tents and camps surrounding the stages
for people to rest and sleep while enjoying the
music, Tomorrowland is both a musical melting
pot and a global meeting place for people around
the world who enjoy the same kind of pulsating
music. This year’s festival is taking place over
two consecutive three-day weekends, featuring
hundreds of the world’s best electronic artists
performing across more than a dozen stages,
including superstar DJ Calvin Harris making his
long-awaited Tomorrowland mainstage debut, plus
David Guetta, Martin Garrix, Hardwell, Dimitri Vegas
& Like Mike, Alesso, Fisher and many more.
17–19 + 24–26 July 2026
www.tomorrowland.com
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
23
NEWSFLASH
COMIC-CON INTERNATIONAL
THE MASSIVE RISE IN
popularity of animated
films, western cartoons
and Anime, as well as
video games and fantasy novels, has caused
the Comic-Con franchise to grow hugely since
in recent decades. Comic-Con International
– San Diego's four-day convergence of
costumes and fun – is where fans meet comics
creators, science fiction and fantasy authors,
film and TV directors, producers and writers
and play in their very own comic fantasyland.
For those seeking to reawaken the child inside
them, this lively gathering is literally the
perfect place to be. Packed with everything
from autograph signings and costume
contests to animation and film screenings, a
massive programming schedule features
hundreds of individual events including
hands-on workshops, educational and
academic sessions, video games forums,
portfolio reviews, art shows, a masquerade
competition and the Will Eisner Comic Industry
Awards, all crammed into just four days.
23–26 July 2026
www.comic-con.org
MAINE LOBSTER
FESTIVAL
TWO HOURS’ DRIVE FROM
Portland and four from
Boston, this annual non-profit
celebration of all-things
lobster is held in the classic American harbour town
of Rockland, in the nation’s easternmost state of
New England. What began more than seventy years
ago as an initiative to revive local Midcoast Maine
marine communities is today an internationally
recognised celebration of local seafood. Very much
a family-orientated gathering, the proceedings
include a parade, live music, a 10-kilometre road
race, local arts and crafts, an array of entertainers;
cooking contests and fairground rides, not to
mention the consumption of more than 20,000
pounds of cooked lobster. Add in clams, calamari,
scallops and haddock – all freshly sourced from the
Atlantic Ocean – and Maine Lobster Festival is
without doubt a marine crustacean-lovers’ dream!
This year’s activities even include a race across a
makeshift bridge of lobster crates, which is open to
anyone brave enough to risk falling in the ocean with
hundreds of people watching!
29 July – 2 August 2026
https://mainelobsterfestival.com
24 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
HENRY MOORE: MONUMENTAL NATURE
PHOTO: JONTY WILDE
SPREAD ACROSS KEW GARDENS' SWEEPING 320
acres of lush botanicals, Henry Moore: Monumental
Nature is the most ambitious outdoor exhibition of the
celebrated English visual artist's semi-abstract work. More
than 30 sculptures are positioned throughout the gardens, from open lawns to
wooded corners, with additional works placed inside the vast Temperate House,
the world’s largest surviving Victorian glasshouse.
Moore’s enduring fascination with organic form is central to the
experience. Pieces such as Large Two Forms and Sheep Piece sit
comfortably within their surroundings, their sculpted curves echoing the
shapes of bone, stone and landscape. Rather than dominating the terrain,
they appear to belong to it, encouraging visitors to consider the
relationship between art, environment and the human figure.
Meanwhile, inside the Shirley Sherwood Gallery, more than 90 further
works, including drawings, carvings and prints, offer insight into Moore’s
creative thinking, shaped by a lifelong engagement with nature’s complexity.
Together, the exhibition provides a rare opportunity to encounter his work at
scale, where sculpture and setting exist in quiet and compelling harmony.
Until 31 January 2027
www.kew.org
Mother And Child: Block Seat (1983-1984)
NEWSFLASH
BRIGHTON & HOVE PRIDE
AT THE HEART OF BRIGHTON
& Hove Pride’s weekend
programme, Pride on the
Park transforms Preston
Park into one of the United Kingdom’s most
dynamic gatherings of music, identity and
collective expression. This year carries particular
resonance, marking 35 years of Pride in Brighton,
with global icon Diana Ross headlining the main
stage. Ross’s appearance elevates the event
beyond a typical festival setting. With a career
that has shaped decades of popular music, her
performance brings both stature and emotional
weight, aligning seamlessly with this year’s
theme, The Power of Love. Alongside artists such
as RAYE, Jessie J and RuPaul, the line-up spans
generations and genres, though it is Ross’s
enduring influence that defines the weekend’s
musical centre. Elsewhere, multiple stages and
curated spaces introduce cabaret, electronic
music and emerging queer voices, reinforcing
Pride’s commitment to visibility and inclusion.
For many, however, the defining moment will
surely be witnessing a true legend command
the stage, before a crowd united in energy,
purpose and shared joy.
2 August 2026
www.brighton-pride.org
POL’AND’ROCK
FESTIVAL
THERE AREN'T MANY
large-scale music
festivals in the world
today that are
completely free to attend. Pol'and'Rock,
formerly known as Woodstock Festival
Poland, is one of them, which almost
certainly guarantees the festival’s
mantra of "Love, Friendship and Music”.
Inspired by America’s famous Woodstock
of 1969, the Polish descendant’s runaway
success and massive European
popularity is due to the festival’s very
simple approach that one act of kindness
will surely lead to another and another.
Organised by the Great Orchestra of
Christmas Charity to acknowledge all the
supporters who participate in its massive
annual fundraiser, and masterminded by
Polish journalist and social campaigner
Jerzy Owsiak, Pol'and'Rock is a peaceful
gathering and much more than a simple
festival. Its mission is to be "as much
about music as harmonious coexistence”,
where the huge strain of
social and economic hardship dissipates
and love, awareness and understanding
are palpable throughout.
30 July – 1 August 2026
https://en.polandrockfestival.pl
Diana Ross
26 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
NEWSFLASH
BRISTOL BALLOON FIESTA
BRISTOL’S ANNUAL HOT AIR
balloon extravaganza takes
place in the delightful
surroundings of Ashton
Court Estate, which was once the gracious home
of the Smyth family and is now a historic
850-acre park, just ten minutes from the city
centre in beautiful South West England. North
Somerset's annual hot air balloon extravaganza is
Europe’s largest yearly meet for ballooning
enthusiasts, attracting more than one hundred hot
air balloons from across the globe. Witnessing a
mass ascent of balloons in all shapes and sizes,
lifting into the sky at once and instantly filling it
with glorious colours, is truly a spectacular sight
to behold. Not to be missed is the festival’s famous
“Night Glow” event, on Saturday night 10th August,
which sees multitudinous balloons glowing to
music after the sun has set, followed by a dazzling
fireworks display. A variety of entertainment,
arena events and a giant fairground complete the
weekend’s carnival-like feel.
7–9 August 2026
www.bristolballoonfiesta.co.uk
FESTIVAL INTERCÉLTICO DE LORIENT
ON THE RUGGED SOUTHERN
coast of Brittany, the port city of
Lorient becomes a vibrant meeting
point for Celtic culture during
one of Europe’s most distinctive summer gatherings.
Established in 1971, the Festival Interceltique de Lorient
brings together artists and performers from across the
Celtic nations, including Ireland, Scotland, Wales, Galicia
and Asturias, in a spirited celebration of shared heritage
and identity. Music lies at the heart of the proceedings,
with everything from traditional pipe bands and Breton
fest noz dancing to contemporary interpretations
that push Celtic sounds in new directions. Streets and
squares fill with processions, costumed performers
and impromptu concerts, while the Grand Parade sees
thousands of musicians and dancers move through the
city in a colourful display of pageantry and pride. Beyond
performance, the festival also explores language, craft
and gastronomy, offering a broader understanding of
Celtic life and its enduring influence. Set against the
Atlantic backdrop, with sea air carrying the sound of
fiddles and bagpipes, the experience feels both deeply
rooted and joyfully alive, a celebration that bridges past
and present with remarkable energy.
7–16 August 2026
www.festival-interceltique.bzh
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
27
NEWSFLASH
OBON
CELEBRATED IN JAPAN
for more than half a
millennium and a
historic, annual occasion
to commemorate one's ancestors, Obon is
based on a Buddhist legend that tells of the
spirits of the deceased returning to earth to
visit their families. The main Awa Odori part
of Obon lasts for four days in Tokushima
Prefecture, on the east side Shikoku, which is
the smallest of Japan’s major islands. While
chochin lanterns are ritually hung in front of
houses to guide in the ancestors' spirits,
graves are visited, and food offerings are
made at home altars and temples,
traditional folk dances are performed by
dance troupes led by musicians playing a
range of Japanese instruments, including
the shamisen, taiko drums and the
shinobue. Obon ends with the beautiful ritual
of Toro Nagashi, during which hundreds of
candlelit lanterns are released into the ocean,
rivers and lakes and float away carrying
ancestors' spirits back to the afterlife.
13–16 August 2026
MELBOURNE INTERNATIONAL
FILM FESTIVAL
A CORNERSTONE OF
Australia’s cultural
calendar, the Melbourne
International Film
Festival brings a cosmopolitan energy to the
southern hemisphere winter, drawing
filmmakers, critics and cinephiles from
across the globe. Established in 1952, it
stands as one of the oldest film festivals in
the world, and has long played a vital role in
shaping Australia’s cinematic landscape
while championing international storytelling.
Screenings take place across a network of
venues in the heart of Melbourne, from grand
heritage theatres to contemporary
screening spaces, creating a citywide
celebration of film. The programme is notably
expansive, spanning independent features,
major premieres, documentaries and
experimental works, with a strong emphasis
on emerging voices alongside established
directors. Australian cinema is given
particular prominence, offering audiences a
window into the nation’s evolving creative
identity. Beyond the screenings, the festival
fosters meaningful exchange through talks,
panel discussions and industry events,
where ideas are shared as readily as films.
With its thoughtful curation and engaged
audiences, it offers not only a platform for
cinema, but a deeper reflection on the
stories that shape how we see the world.
7–24 August 2026
https://miff.com.au
28 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
PALIO DELL’ASSUNTO
DEEPLY ROOTED IN
religion, for two days
every year Italy's most
famous annual sporting
event, Siena's Palio, takes over the city with its
epic horse race. As much about pageantry,
civic identity and Sienese pride as it is about
bareback horse racing, while the three-lap
race lasts for barely a minute and a half, the
celebrating lasts for days. But the sight is truly
epic and worth seeing at least once in your
lifetime. The 16th August race - Palio
dell’Assunto - has been held almost
uninterruptedly in Siena’s civic hub, Piazza del
Campo, since 1644. Ten of the city’s seventeen
districts are represented in the race. The
seven districts that didn’t race in the previous
July or August compete by right, and are joined
by horses from three lucky repeat districts
drawn by ballot. More than half the riders get
bucked, which greatly entertains the
40,000-strong Sienese crowd crammed into
the piazza on race day.
16 August 2026
MOUNT HAGEN CULTURAL SHOW
FIRST STAGED IN 1961
before PNG's independence
as an event to unify tribes,
every year since 1964, during
the third weekend of August, the city of Mount
Hagen has hosted one of the largest gatherings
in the country. Known locally as "sing-sings”,
taking place in the large, fertile Wahgi Valley in
the Western Highlands Province of PNG’s central
mainland, and named after an old eroded
volcano, the Mount Hagen Cultural Show is
staged at Kagamuga Show Ground. With more
than 100 tribes in attendance, the concept of this
peaceful event is pretty simple: each tribe – clad
in elaborate body paint, extravagant
headdresses and jewellery fashioned from
bones, tusks and shells – shares their cultural
traditions through costume, dance and music,
and performs a primal dance based on its own
unique legend. Quite simply, the winning
performance is the one which receives the most
applause from the crowd.
10–18 August 2026
https://papuanewguinea.travel
BURNING MAN
FOR ONE WEEK THIS
summer, Nevada's
unforgiving Black Rock
Desert will spring to life
when tens of thousands of people come together
for Burning Man, the largest outdoor arts festival
in North America and one of the most iconic
festivals on the planet. Described as the ultimate
culmination of community, art, self-expression
and self-reliance, participants combine their
efforts to create Black Rock City, a temporary
metropolis dedicated to art and togetherness.
Burning Man celebrates alternative lifestyles
through music, art and the unique camaraderie
that develops during the gathering. The vision is
to "bring experiences to people in grand,
awe-inspiring and joyful ways that lift the human
spirit, address social problems and inspire a
sense of culture, community and personal
engagement." The event's name comes from the
ritual burning of a wooden effigy, which occurs
on the last Saturday night of the festival. In tune
with this year's theme of "Axis Mundi," new
layout adjustments and cosy chill zones have
been designed to foster smaller, intimate
gatherings and enhance sustainability.
30 Aug – 7 Sept 2026
https://burningman.org
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
29
rest your h
➤ LAKE COMO ➤ SINGAPORE ➤ SVETI STEFAN ➤ SUNNY ISLES BEACH ➤ RABAT ➤ ROME
➤ KARNAL ➤ BELGRADE ➤ SARDINIA ➤ BUDAPEST ➤ RHODES ➤ OKAVANGO DELTA
ead
FROM THE DESIGN LED ENERGY OF THE
LAKE COMO EDITION AND ADRIATIC
GRANDEUR OF AMAN SVETI STEFAN, TO THE
AEGEAN STILLNESS OF AMOH ON RHODES
AND UNTAMED WILDERNESS SURROUNDING
MBAMBA IN BOTSWANA, THE CULTURED
TRAVELLER VISITS TWELVE NEW HOTELS
WHERE DESTINATION, CHARACTER AND A
STRONG SENSE OF PLACE DEFINE EVERY STAY
LAKE COMO ITALY
THE LAKE COMO EDITION
LAKE COMO HAS ATTRACTED ARISTOCRATS, ARTISTS, COMPOSERS
and film stars for more than two centuries, drawn to the
extraordinary beauty of northern Italy’s most celebrated lake. Hemmed in
by dramatic Alpine foothills and dotted with cypress trees, ochre villas and
tiny waterside towns, the region possesses a theatrical grandeur that feels
distinctly different from the softer romance of Tuscany or the polished
glamour of Portofino.
From Bellagio and Varenna to Menaggio and Tremezzo, ferries glide
between elegant promenades and steep cobbled lanes, while grand hotels
and lakeside gardens recall an era when European nobility escaped here
during the summer months. Yet despite its enduring cachet, Lake Como has
traditionally leaned towards old world formality rather than contemporary
luxury. That balance has now shifted with the arrival of The Lake Como
EDITION in Cadenabbia, on the lake’s western shore, directly facing Bellagio
across shimmering water.
Introducing a more vibrant, international energy to one of Italy’s most
storied destinations, and occupying a historic lakeside property originally
built in 1830, the 148-room hotel, including 25 suites and two penthouses
housed within Villa Gina, brings the brand’s design-led sensibility to a
region more commonly associated with ornate grandeur.
Interiors balance contemporary refinement with subtle Italian
references, incorporating terrazzo flooring, walnut detailing, pale marble
and carefully framed lake views throughout the property. Public areas feel
particularly striking, from the soaring lobby with its sculptural staircase and
celadon marble bar to the expansive waterfront terraces overlooking the
water. Culinary direction comes from Mauro Colagreco, the acclaimed chef
behind Mirazur in Menton, who oversees several distinct dining concepts
including the signature restaurant, Cetino, and the more relaxed Renzo.
Outside, a floating lakeside pool, private dock and promenade positions
guests directly at the water’s edge. And a longevity-focused spa offers
advanced wellness treatments and biohacking therapies rarely associated
with traditional Lake Como hospitality.
www.editionhotels.com
SINGAPORE
VAREL SINGAPORE
FEW CITIES BALANCE RELENTLESS MODERNITY AND DEEProoted
heritage quite like Singapore. Beneath its polished
skyline lies a metropolis shaped by layered histories, migration and
cultural exchange. Chinese temples, Indian shrines and colonial era
architecture sit alongside soaring towers and contemporary galleries,
while hawker centres and independent cafés continue to define daily life
as much as its tourist attractions. Yet increasingly, some of the city’s
most compelling corners are found beyond Marina Bay and Orchard
Road, particularly in districts where older streets are quietly evolving into
creative and cultural enclaves.
Positioned between Little India, Bugis and Dhoby Ghaut, Selegie
has long retained a distinctly local character despite the pace of
redevelopment elsewhere across the island. Historic shophouses, late
night eateries and ageing apartment blocks lend the area an appealing
sense of texture and familiarity, while a growing number of independent
businesses have recently introduced fresh energy. It is within this quietly Inside, guestrooms balance contemporary simplicity with nostalgic
transforming neighbourhood that Varel Singapore has opened, drawing local references, from carpet motifs inspired by the Southeast Asian
much of its identity from the spirit and stories of its surroundings.
dessert of chendol, to vintage lift style screens and dim sum influenced
lighting. Public spaces continue the narrative through traditional games,
Occupying the former site of Selegie Centre and conceived as an urban handcrafted objects and subtle nods to Singapore’s multicultural
sanctuary rooted in memory and locality, 128-room Varel Singapore
identity. Four dining concepts shape the hotel’s social scene, including
draws heavily on the childhood experiences of its owner, who grew
Hathaway Autograph, which reinterprets Southeast Asian classics,
up nearby. Designed by award winning architectural practice FDAT,
and Saga Bar, a cosy cocktail lounge inspired by regional spices and
the building references the tempo and proportions of surrounding
aromas. And the hotel is crowned by a rooftop infinity pool that offers
shophouses while introducing sky terraces, greenery and open-air
expansive skyline views across Selegie and beyond.
spaces that soften the density of the neighbouring cityscape.
https://tribute-portfolio.marriott.com
32
SVETI STEFAN MONTENEGRO
AMAN SVETI STEFAN
ALONG MONTENEGRO’S ADRIATIC COASTLINE, WHERE PINE
covered mountains descend sharply towards the sea,
Sveti Stefan remains one of the Mediterranean’s most striking coastal
landmarks. Connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway, the
tiny fortified islet sits just south of Budva, its cluster of weathered
stone cottages and terracotta rooftops appearing almost unchanged
for centuries.
Fringed by olive groves and overlooked by dense woodland, the area
around Sveti Stefan offers a more refined and understated alternative
to many of the Adriatic’s busier resort destinations, with medieval
towns, ancient monasteries and winding coastal roads tracing the edge
of the Adriatic.
Reopened for summer 2026, Aman Sveti Stefan occupies one of
Europe’s most unusual hotel settings, divided between the historic
island itself and neighbouring Villa Miločer, once the summer residence
of Queen Marija Karađorđević. Rather than dramatically reinventing the
property, Aman’s approach has carefully preserved the atmosphere
and character of the original fishing village through restored stone
buildings, hand finished stucco, oak detailing and narrow cobbled
pathways winding above the Adriatic.
Accommodation is spread between the island’s historic cottages
and suites alongside the mainland villa, many offering expansive sea
views and exceptional privacy. Meanwhile a trio of beaches, including
the private Queen’s Beach, reinforce the resort’s strong connection
to the surrounding coastline; An expansive Aman Spa incorporates
hydrotherapy facilities, indoor and outdoor pools and treatments
inspired by local herbs and botanicals. And dining focuses on
uncomplex Adriatic flavours served across terraces, courtyards
and waterfront settings that allow the scenery to speak for itself.
In keeping with Aman’s longstanding philosophy, while being truly
luxe, the overall experience of staying at Sveti Stefan feels personal,
understated, and genuinely rooted in the destination.
www.aman.com
33
SUNNY ISLES BEACH UNITED STATES
THE SUNNY
LONG ASSOCIATED WITH WIDE BEACHES, HIGH RISE
oceanfront living, and a slower pace than neighbouring
Miami Beach, Sunny Isles has evolved into one of South Florida’s most
polished coastal enclaves. Stretching between the Atlantic Ocean and
the Intracoastal Waterway, this compact barrier island combines long
sweeps of pale sand with a growing collection of contemporary residences,
restaurants, and lifestyle venues, while remaining within easy reach of both
Miami and Fort Lauderdale. Although development has transformed much
of the skyline over the past two decades, traces of the area’s earlier resort era
still linger along Collins Avenue, where generations of Floridians once came for
relaxed seaside holidays and weekend escapes.
It is within this changing landscape that The Sunny finds its place, occupying
the former Newport Beachside Hotel & Resort site, beside the historic Newport
Fishing Pier. Reimagined for a new generation of travellers, the property
reflects both the area’s growing sophistication and the enduring appeal of
uncomplicated beachfront living.
Making its debut earlier this year, The Sunny has introduced a lighter, more
contemporary approach to oceanfront hospitality in Sunny Isles Beach. Helmed
by a third-generation family of hoteliers, the 339-room property combines a
distinctly social atmosphere with interiors that balance warm timber tones,
sculptural detailing, living greenery, and soft coastal hues.
Guest rooms have been designed with comfort and simplicity in mind, many
opening onto balconies with expansive sea views. Public areas encourage
meeting and conversation. The hotel’s culinary programme ranges from the
casual Lovebirds Café to an oceanfront restaurant positioned above Newport
Pier, alongside a cocktail and listening lounge inspired by the property’s musical
past. And an oceanfront pool deck, fire pits, spa and private cabanas reinforce
the hotel’s broad appeal. Rather than chasing excess, The Sunny focuses on
ease, warmth, and creating a sense of shared experience beside the sea.
www.thesunnyhotel.com
34
RABAT MALTA
VERDALA WELLNESS HOTEL
AWAY FROM MALTA’S BUSY HARBOUR FRONTS AND HEAVILY
developed coastal districts, the landscape around Rabat and
Mdina carries a noticeably calmer rhythm. Here, cultivated fields spread
across gently undulating limestone terrain broken by dry stone walls, olive
groves and scattered farmhouses that have shaped the island’s rural
identity for centuries. Roads narrow as they climb inland, passing small
villages crowned by church domes and stretches of open countryside
looking towards the Mediterranean. Historically tied to agriculture and
religious life, this central part of Malta remains closely connected to the
island’s older traditions.
Nearby Mdina, the country’s former capital, continues to draw visitors
with its imposing fortifications, Baroque architecture and labyrinthine
streets, while Rabat’s surrounding valleys and walking trails offer a quieter
counterpoint to Malta’s more crowded shoreline. Positioned on elevated
ground just outside Rabat, Verdala Wellness Hotel overlooks this distinctly
rural pocket of the island, with far reaching views extending across the
countryside towards the sea.
Set within landscaped grounds overlooking Malta’s western coastline,
Verdala Wellness Hotel combines contemporary architecture with a
notably restrained and understated design approach. Large terraces,
clean horizontal lines and expansive glazing give the property an
immediate sense of openness, while interiors favour natural textures,
muted earth tones and carefully controlled lighting throughout the
guestrooms and shared spaces.
Accommodation ranges from spacious suites with private pools to
larger residences designed for longer stays, many oriented towards
uninterrupted countryside and water vistas. The hotel’s wellness focus
extends across much of the property, from its substantial spa and
hydrotherapy facilities to dedicated fitness and treatment areas intended
for restorative, longer form programmes, rather than quick stopover visits.
And although undeniably modern in appearance, Verdala’s setting above
Rabat ensures that the calming surrounding landscape remains central to
every stay experience.
https://axhotelsmalta.com
36
ROME ITALY
CASA J.K. PLACE ROMA
LAYERED WITH MORE THAN TWO MILLENNIA OF HISTORY,
Rome remains one of Europe’s most captivating capitals, a
city where monumental architecture and everyday life continue to exist
side by side with remarkable ease. Around the Centro Storico, grand
Baroque churches, hidden courtyards and ochre coloured palazzi line
streets that have changed little for generations, while cafés, wine bars and
artisan boutiques animate the ground floors below shuttered apartments.
Between Piazza Navona, the Pantheon and the Spanish Steps, the
atmosphere feels particularly cinematic, especially in the evening when
marble fountains glow under streetlamps and much of the daytime bustle
begins to fade.
Despite drawing millions of visitors every year, this part of Rome still
rewards slower exploration. Narrow side streets often lead unexpectedly
towards tiny trattorias, old bookstores and quiet piazzas where local
residents continue long established routines, largely untouched by
tourism. It is within this historic quarter, on Via dei Prefetti, that Casa J.K.
Place Roma recently opened inside an 18th century palazzo just minutes
from Piazza di Spagna.
Offering a markedly more residential style of luxury hospitality from the
Italian brand best known for its intimate hotels, Casa J.K. Place Roma was
designed by Michele Bönan and comprises just a dozen one, two and three
bedroom residences arranged across three floors, each conceived to
function as an elegant private apartment.
Kitchens finished with bronzed steel and Calacatta marble sit alongside
generous dining spaces intended for entertaining and longer stays, while
Statuario marble floors, vaulted ceilings and salvaged fireplaces add
warmth and character throughout. A palette of Pompeian red, celadon
green and tobacco tones runs through the interiors, complemented
by custom furnishings, velvet upholstery and carefully layered lighting
designed specifically for the property. Guests have access to a private
lounge, well-equipped gym, and dedicated butler and concierge services.
And at the heart of the palazzo, Al Ventidue restaurant occupies a glass
covered courtyard centred around a beautiful fountain, and serves
contemporary interpretations of Italian regional cuisine.
More private residence than conventional hotel, Casa J.K. Place
Roma has evidently been thoughtfully conceived for travellers seeking a
longer, more immersive relationship with The Eternal City.
www.jkplaces.com
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER 37
KARNAL INDIA
NOORMAHAL
FOR CENTURIES, NORTHERN INDIA’S GRAND TRUNK
Road connected kingdoms, trading centres and imperial
capitals across the subcontinent, carrying merchants, pilgrims and
armies between Delhi, Punjab and beyond. Even today, the historic route
remains one of the country’s great arterial highways, cutting through
fertile plains shaped by wheat fields, mustard farms and scattered
market towns. Karnal, positioned along this corridor in Haryana, has
long occupied an important geographical position between the Mughal
monuments of Delhi and the northern hill states. Although often passed
through en route to elsewhere, the region carries its own quieter
historical significance, tied to military campaigns, agriculture and the
movement of travellers across northern India for generations.
Beyond Karnal’s expanding urban outskirts, broad roads give way to
open land, low rise settlements and stretches of cultivated countryside
characteristic of Haryana’s interior.
woodwork, rich textiles and an extensive collection of art and historical
artefacts.
176 guestrooms and suites include the expansive Raja Niwas and
Khwabgah penthouses, both designed with private terraces and generous
living areas, and served by dedicated butler services. Dining ranges from
North Western frontier cuisine at The Frontier Mail, to international dishes
at Colonel Saab, alongside cocktails at The Polo Bar and handcrafted
desserts at The Cake Factory. And leisure facilities include a spa, outdoor
pool, gym, tennis courts, pickleball, ziplining and rock climbing.
https://autograph-hotels.marriott.com
Positioned on India's longest national highway, the NH 44, which
stretches more than 4,000 kilometres from Srinagar in the north
to Kanyakumari at the southern tip of the subcontinent, Noormahal
draws upon its location in Haryana while reflecting the grandeur and
architectural traditions historically associated with India’s royal courts.
Conceived as a contemporary palace hotel inspired by Mughal,
Rajput and Punjabi architectural traditions, the exterior of Noormahal
is punctuated by domes, scalloped arches, ornamental detailing and
intricate jali work, while interiors incorporate artisanal finishes, carved
38 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
THE BRISTOL BELGRADE
BELGRADE HAS LONG OCCUPIED A CURIOUS POSITION
between Central Europe and the Balkans, shaped as much by
the Austro-Hungarian Empire as by the Ottoman centuries that preceded
it. Few European capitals wear their layers of history quite so openly.
Along boulevards and avenues, ornate early twentieth century façades
stand beside socialist era blocks, while cafés, galleries and cocktail bars
spill late into the evening with the energy for which the Serbian capital
has become increasingly known. Although the city’s bohemian quarter of
Skadarlija and the fortress overlooking the confluence of the Sava and
Danube rivers remain central to Belgrade’s identity, the area surrounding
Karađorđeva Street and the redeveloped waterfront has emerged as one
of the city’s most dynamic districts in recent years.
BELGRADE SERBIA
Positioned within a few minutes' of the Sava River, The Bristol Belgrade
reopened in mid-2025 in this evolving quarter, as one of the Serbian
capital’s most storied hotels. Originally constructed between 1910 and
1912 to designs by architect Nikola Nestorović, the monumental Art
Nouveau building once stood at the centre of Belgrade’s social and
political life, welcoming an eclectic roster of guests over the decades,
that included the Rockefeller family, Josip Broz Tito and
chess grandmaster Garry Kasparov.
Following an extensive transformation lasting more than two and a half
years, the reimagined hotel retains its historic character; the building's
restored façades once again anchor the surrounding streetscape, and
its new interiors pair soft neutral tones, polished stone and curved
architectural detailing with reproductions of original decorative motifs
inspired by French Art Nouveau and Eastern European design traditions.
Public spaces include an elegant lobby lounge, a library centred around
a fireplace, a serene spa and expansive gym, and a dramatic glassceilinged
light filled dining atrium, that restores a sense of openness to
the heart of the building.
Guestrooms continue the understated palette, combining tailored
furnishings with high ceilings, slick bathrooms and generous natural
light. More than simply reopening a landmark address, The Bristol
Belgrade has reintroduced one of the city’s defining historic hotels to a
new generation of travellers, reconnecting contemporary Belgrade with
an important part of its architectural and cultural past.
https://thebristolbelgrade.com
39
POLTU QUATU ITALY
W SARDINIA – POLTU QUATU
ALONG SARDINIA’S NORTHEASTERN COASTLINE, WHERE
jagged granite formations descend into water of startling
clarity, the Costa Smeralda has long attracted an international summer
crowd drawn by its marinas, beaches and slower Mediterranean pace of
life. Yet despite its close proximity to Porto Cervo, the harbour village
of Poltu Quatu feels noticeably more discreet. Built around a narrow
natural inlet framed by steep rocky hillsides, the village takes its name
from the ancient Sardinian phrase for “hidden port”, an apt description
for a setting that remains relatively sheltered from the busier rhythm of the
surrounding coast.
Whitewashed buildings curve around the marina, restaurants spill onto
terraces beside the water, and boats drift quietly between the harbour
and the nearby Maddalena archipelago, whose protected islands and
secluded coves are among the Mediterranean’s most spectacular coastal the surrounding coastline. Locally commissioned ceramics, woven
landscapes. Positioned between Porto Cervo and Baia Sardinia, Poltu
artworks and photography by Sardinian artists appear throughout guest
Quatu also provides easy access to the wider Gallura region, where winding accommodations and public areas, creating a stronger connection to place
coastal roads and rugged inland scenery continue to define this part of
than many larger Mediterranean resorts manage to achieve.
northern Sardinia.
Several suites feature private plunge pools and expansive terraces
overlooking either the marina or surrounding hillsides. The social energy
Recently opened, W Sardinia – Poltu Quatu brings Marriott’s increasingly
of the resort centres around the broad WET Deck, the marina facing
design conscious lifestyle brand to this secluded corner of the Costa
TANIT seafood restaurant, and the vaulted W Lounge. And an AWAY Spa,
Smeralda. Designed by New York studio Meyer Davis, the 157-room
Technogym-equipped FIT studio and curated excursions around the
resort combines the whitewashed architecture historically associated
Maddalena islands reinforce the brand's more contemporary approach to
with the area, with softer contemporary interiors shaped by pale
Sardinian hospitality.
timber, textured plaster, curved forms and stone surfaces inspired by
https://w-hotels.marriott.com
40
41
BUDAPEST HUNGARY
THE ST. REGIS BUDAPEST
STRADDLING THE DANUBE IN STATELY FASHION, BUDAPEST
remains one of Europe’s grandest capitals, a city where
Neo Gothic spires, Belle Époque cafés and fading Austro Hungarian
splendour coexist with a flourishing contemporary cultural scene.
Divided by the river into hilly Buda and elegant Pest, the Hungarian
capital has for decades drawn globetrotters in search of thermal baths,
concert halls, vibrant bars and cafés humming with conversation. And
while tourists routinely flock city landmarks including the Parliament
Building, the Chain Bridge and the hilltop terraces of Buda Castle,
central Pest has, in recent years, entered a polished new chapter, with
restorations breathing life back into some of the city’s most significant
historic buildings.
Standing close to Elisabeth Bridge on the Pest embankment, Klotild Palace
has always occupied one of Budapest’s most commanding positions.
Built between 1899 and 1902 as one half of a monumental twin palace
commissioned by Archduchess Klotild, the building once served as an
architectural gateway to the city. More than a century later, following an
extensive restoration, the palace has now entered a fresh era as The
St. Regis Budapest, bringing one of hospitality’s most storied luxury
brands to the Hungarian capital for the very first time.
Designed by Hungarian architects Flóris Korb and Kálmán Giergl,
the Neo Baroque landmark retains its theatrical sense of arrival,
most strikingly expressed through a dramatic central staircase
crowned by a soaring glass atrium threaded with intricate bronze
detailing. Interiors take their cues from Budapest’s café culture and
famed bathhouses, blending curved architectural lines, decorative
tiles and richly textured materials. And throughout the hotel’s 102
guestrooms and suites, references to Budapest’s artistic heritage
appear in subtle ways, from Art Nouveau inspired motifs and brass
accents to blue toned artworks inspired by the Danube, with several
suites overlooking Elisabeth Bridge and the river itself, and the 169
square metre Presidential Suite featuring a private balcony which
enjoys sweeping views across the city skyline.
https://stregisbudapest.com
42 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
AMOH
RHODES HAS LONG OCCUPIED A STRATEGIC POSITION
between East and West, its shores shaped as much by
successive civilisations as by the forces of the Aegean itself. From the
medieval grandeur of Rhodes Town to the whitewashed beauty of Lindos,
the island possesses a remarkable depth that extends well beyond its
reputation as one of Greece’s most popular summer destinations.
Olive groves spread across the interior hills, ancient pathways cut
through forests of pine and cypress, and hidden coves punctuate long
stretches of rocky shoreline washed by startlingly clear water. Along
the island’s southeastern coast, the atmosphere becomes noticeably
calmer, particularly around Lindos, where steep hillsides tumble towards
quiet beaches and the pace of life softens considerably. It is here, near
Kavos Beach and moments from Lindos itself, that Rhodes feels at its
most seductive. The surrounding landscape combines rugged terrain with
broad Mediterranean horizons, while traces of antiquity remain embedded
throughout the area, from ancient stonework to archaeological remnants.
Less frenetic than the island’s northern resorts yet still deeply connected to
Rhodian culture and history, this part of Rhodes offers a more understated
and sophisticated base from which to experience the Dodecanese.
Set on a secluded peninsula overlooking the Mediterranean, AMOH
brings The Luxury Collection to Rhodes for the first time, introducing a
contemporary resort that feels closely connected to its surroundings.
Bordered by an ancient Hellenistic Roman limestone quarry, the property
takes much of its visual identity from the island’s longstanding stone
craftsmanship traditions, interpreted by London based Studio Lost
through textured materials, muted mineral tones and softly sculptural
interiors.
Across 197 rooms and suites, many with private pools and expansive
sea views, the mood is calm, airy and intentionally restrained. Natural
wood, woven detailing and pale stone create spaces that echo the
colours and textures of the surrounding coastline. Elsewhere, an array of
restaurants and bars shape the resort’s culinary identity, ranging from
elevated Greek seafood at Kymata, to Italian classics served alfresco
at Cava di Pietra. Two sandy beaches are within walking distance, while
Elispa, the resort’s wellness sanctuary, incorporates holistic treatments
inspired by natural elements, alongside indoor and outdoor pools, tennis
courts and a substantial fitness centre.
https://the-luxury-collection.marriott.com
RHODES GREECE
43
44
MBAMBA
EVERY SAFARI LOVER CARRIES A VISION OF THE
Okavango Delta long before arriving there for the first time.
Perhaps it is the sight of elephants crossing shallow floodwaters at
dusk, or the distant sound of lions rolling across the plains after sunset.
In northern Botswana, where seasonal waters from Angola spill into the
Kalahari Desert to create one of the world’s largest inland deltas, that
imagined Africa still exists.
The Okavango remains one of the continent’s great wildernesses, an
immense mosaic of reed-fringed channels, palm islands, grasslands and
mopane woodland where wildlife continues to move largely as it always has.
Safari vehicles often travel for hours without encountering another human
presence. And the tempo of each day is usually determined not by schedules,
but by spoor in the dust, shifting light and the movement of animals. For many
travellers, it is this sense of scale and raw natural theatre that makes the
Delta such a compelling destination, whether gliding silently through narrow
waterways, or watching a herd of buffalo disappear into the evening haze
beneath a sky stained copper and violet.
Opened in April 2025 by Natural Selection, Mbamba occupies a private
concession in the northern Okavango adjoining Moremi, Vumbura
and Duba Plains. Named after the Bukakhwe San Bushman word for
“hello”, the camp embraces a classic East African safari aesthetic
interpreted with considerable polish. Twelve spacious canvas tents
stand raised beneath leadwood trees, their interiors combining Persian
rugs, mahogany furnishings and four poster beds with wide verandas
overlooking the bush. Elsewhere, two lounges, a library and a swimming
pool create an atmosphere that feels quietly sociable rather than overtly
theatrical.
What distinguishes Mbamba most, however, is the quality of its
guiding and the richness of its surroundings. Guests encounter large
elephant herds, buffalo, lions and endangered African wild dogs across
a landscape renowned for year round game viewing, while birdlife ranges
from wattled cranes to Pel’s fishing owls. Mokoro excursions and boating
safaris reveal the Delta at a slower pace, and sunset drinks beside
still lagoons often become among stays' most memorable moments.
Beyond the safari experience itself, Mbamba also supports conservation
initiatives focused on human wildlife coexistence, reinforcing Natural
Selection’s long standing commitment to preserving the fragile
ecosystems on which Botswana’s wilderness tourism depends.
https://naturalselection.travel
OKAVANGO DELTA BOTSWANA
45
WIN
A FOUR-NIGHT STAY FOR TWO PEOPLE IN A LUXURIOUS HARBOUR
VIEW ROOM, COMPLETE WITH DAILY BREAKFASTS AND ACCESS
TO THE HOTEL’S POOL TERRACE AND WELLNESS FACILITIES
spend four days at
regent hong kong
on victoria harbour
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DRAW
SET DRAMATICALLY ON THE EDGE OF
Victoria Harbour in Kowloon, Regent Hong
Kong is a serene urban retreat recently reimagined
by celebrated Hong Kong-born designer Chi Wing Lo.
Connected to the cultural and retail destination K11
MUSEA and moments from the Avenue of Stars, the
legendary hotel balances cinematic harbour views with
an atmosphere of understated sophistication and calm.
Each of the property’s 497 rooms and suites has
been conceived as a ‘Personal Haven’, with soothing
neutral tones, intuitive technology, deep soaking baths
and windowfront daybeds framing mesmerising views
across the harbour and Hong Kong skyline. Thoughtful
service comes courtesy of Regent Experience Agents,
who curate highly personalised stays shaped around
each guest, from bespoke dining reservations to
immersive city experiences.
Dining is equally compelling, with six acclaimed
restaurants and bars including the two Michelinstarred
Lai Ching Heen and the atmospheric Qura Bar,
while Regent Club offers an elevated residential-style
retreat overlooking the water. Following its celebrated
transformation, Regent Hong Kong has earned widespread
international acclaim, including Forbes Travel Guide’s
coveted Five-Star rating
for 2026, reaffirming its place among Asia’s most
distinguished luxury hotels.
https://hongkong.regenthotels.com
LUCERNE
SWITZERLAND
LUCERN
switzerland's most
atmospheric city
COVER
STORY
E
SURROUNDED BY MOUNTAINS
AND ANCHORED BY WATER,
LUCERNE UNFOLDS THROUGH
PICTURESQUE STREETS,
GALLERIES AND SUMMITS IN
A SERIES OF DEEPLY FELT
MOMENTS, AS DEMELZA OXLEY
DISCOVERS A HISTORIC SWISS
CITY WITH A COMMUNITY FEEL
PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAILA BOSCO
COVER STORY
LUCERNE
IN A WORLD THAT SEEMS TO RELENTLESSLY
move ever faster, there are still some cities where the
chaos seems to dissolve into something quieter and
more deliberate, like a pause drawn gently across time.
Lucerne is one such city. Here, a vast lake lies like
a sheet of polished glass, calm and mirror-like, gathering the
surrounding mountains into its stillness. Distant snow-capped
peaks are reflected so perfectly that one almost loses sense of
what is real. And there is a palpable lightness in the air. It is a
landscape that immediately captures one's attention and endears
visitors to Lucerne before exploring anything at all.
870 METRES LONG AND ENCIRCLING THE OLD TOWN
with authority, the Musegg Wall is the longest surviving city
wall in Switzerland. Its crenellated stretch is punctuated by nine
distinctive towers, each lending its own character to the skyline,
together forming a rhythmic silhouette above the city and the
waters of Lake Lucerne. Among them, the 15th century Zyt
Tower houses the city’s oldest clock. A quiet testament to its civic
importance, its generous dial was designed in 1442 to be read by
fishermen out on the lake. Visitors can walk the wall and explore
four of its towers, ascending through timbered interiors to vantage
points that reward with sweeping views over Lucerne’s rooftops
and the mountains beyond. From April to November, Musegg is
the perfect place to begin to get a feel for Lucerne and its immense
history. www.museggmauer.ch
ALMOST CERTAINLY ONE OF EUROPE’S PRETTIEST
cities, Lucerne is invariably best discovered on foot. Renowned
for its beautifully decorated façades, particularly around
Hirschenplatz, where painted exteriors add colour and
character to the historic square, the city is also home around
200 fountains, each adding to its unique charm. The work of
Konrad Lux, one of the most ornate fountains is located in the
center of Weinmarkt square.
DATING BACK TO 1333 AND UNDOUBTEDLY THE CITY’S
most famous monument, covered wooden Chapel Bridge
(Kapellbrücke) spans the River Reuss diagonally and is the
oldest surviving truss bridge in the world. The ceilings of its full
170-metre length feature colourful 17th-century paintings,
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
51
and the octagonal water tower at the bridge’s centre is a national
landmark. As you step off the bridge on the opposite side of the
river to the old town, the twin onion-shaped domes of the Jesuit
Church dominate the riverfront. Step inside and the atmosphere
shifts to one of ornate splendour, its interior richly adorned with
rose and gold stucco detailing, and frescoed ceilings drawing
eyes upwards. At the sanctuary’s heart, a dark pink altarpiece
impresses, its marble-like appearance a carefully crafted illusion
in stucco and plaster. https://jesuitenkirche-luzern.ch
STANDING AS A GRAND PORTAL, THE SURVIVING
Neo-Renaissance archway of Lucerne Station is a reminder
of railway's golden age. Designed by Hans Wilhelm Auer in
the 1860s, the station was largely lost to fire in 1971, yet its
monumental entrance remains, rising ornately against the
modern terminus that now sits behind it. The current station
was designed by architects Hans Peter Ammann and Peter
Baumann, while its bold and angular concrete and glass
concourse is the work of renowned Spanish-Swiss architect
52 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
Weinmarkt
Franziskanerplatz
Santiago Calatrava, who was working for Ammann and
Baumann at the time.
JUST A FEW STEPS AWAY, SEEMINGLY RISING FROM
the shore of Lake Lucerne, the KKL Luzern Culture and
Convention Centre is a masterclass in contemporary architectural
poetry, where water, light and sound exist in restrained dialogue.
Designed by French architect Jean Nouvel between 1995 and
2000, the complex is not simply placed beside the lake, but is
gently fragmented by it. Narrow water channels glide between the
buildings, amplifying the interplay of reflections, and carefully
chosen materials meet the shifting surface of the water to create
constantly changing mirages depending on the aspect.
At the heart of the building lies a grand, modern concert hall
which seats 1,898. Here, materiality is both tactile and acoustic:
warm timber surfaces envelop the audience, creating a sense of
closeness while serving a precise sonic purpose. Above, a reflective
canopy hovers like an architectural instrument, projecting
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
53
sound back to the musicians without delay. The hall’s acoustic
brilliance is the work of Russell Johnson, whose design provides
enormous acoustical flexibility by means of a reverberation
chamber with vast movable doors, a height adjustable canopy
and variable sound absorbing finishes. White cubic patterned
walls line the interior, their geometry not merely decorative but
helping to achieve optimum acoustics by diffusing sound evenly
throughout the space, ensuring that every note resonates with
balance and depth. Regally presiding over the hall at one end, a
towering organ built by Swiss company Orgelbau Kuhn anchors
the space in local craftsmanship. Above the auditorium,
concertgoers spend intervals on an upper level beneath the
building’s dramatic cantilevered roof, looking across the lake to
the cityscape on the other side. A vast aviation-like structure,
the glimmering roof is made-up of some 2,000 metallic panels
which catch and scatter light, echoing the water of Lake Lucerne.
www.kkl-luzern.ch/en
On the fourth floor of the same complex, Lucerne Art Museum
has long positioned itself as a platform for emerging voices and
underrepresented perspectives, championing artists working
at the margins, with a particular sensitivity to feminist
discourse and contemporary social themes. Its permanent
collection, comprising some 6,000 works, is not presented as
a fixed canon but as a living archive. Rotated regularly, it is
COVER STORY
LUCERNE
reimagined through evolving curatorial concepts. The current
iteration adopts a compellingly sparse approach, one work,
one room, one artist, allowing each piece the space and
stillness to resonate fully. Alongside this, the most recent
temporary exhibition, the comprehensive retrospective
Maria Pinińska-Bereś: Under the Pink Flag, introduced a
provocative counterpoint, exploring themes of body, gender and
sensuality via sculpture, photography and the extensive use of
tactile materials.
www.kunstmuseumluzern.ch/en
Crowning the centre’s food offerings, one Michelin-starred
restaurant Lucide is helmed by chef Michèle Meier, whose refined,
contemporary cuisine reflects the same precision and elegance
found throughout the KKL. www.lucide-luzern.ch/en
START A NEW DAY BY SETTING OUT FOR THE TOWN
of Kriens, on the edge of the city. There, board a gondola for the
ascent to Mount Pilatus, which tops out at 2,128 metres and
is composed of several peaks overlooking Lucerne. The gentle
glide up begins with a hushed transition from town to alpine
landscape, over dappled forests that cloak the mountain’s lower
slopes. As the valley recedes and the air cools, the widening
horizon reveals a theatrical sweep of Lake Lucerne far below.
Drifting past craggy outcrops and lingering patches of snow,
KKL Luzern Culture and Convention Centre
Lion Monument
seemingly suspended between earth and sky, different views unveil
dramatic panoramas. Then, just before the summit, your eye is
drawn to a delicate interruption in the wildness: the Klimsenkapelle
Chapel, perched improbably on its rocky ledge since 1861 at an
altitude of 1864 metres above sea level. Neo-Gothic and almost
storybook in character, this small Roman Catholic pilgrimage
site offers a quiet counterpoint to the grandeur of Mother Nature
surrounding it, and acts as a place of stillness and reflection for
spiritual travellers and trekkers alike.
For a more dramatic ascent to the top from May to
November, a ride on the Pilatus Railway is an extraordinary
experience. Departing from the village of Alpnachstad, which
sits on Lake Lucerne at the foot of Mount Pilatus, the world's
steepest cogwheel railway reaches gradients of up to 48 percent,
and steadily makes its way up through meadows, forests and
sheer rock faces. Feeling almost vertical at times, the train tilts
sharply as it climbs, heightening the drama of the ride and the
sense of anticipation.
At the top, historic Hotel Pilatus Kulm is an inviting place
to pause and take-in the views, its sprawling terraces offering
sweeping panoramas of alpine peaks. There is a timeless charm
to lingering here, where travellers have gathered for well over
a century, drawn as much by the views as by the sense of quiet
retreat above the clouds. For lunch, few pleasures feel more fitting
than a traditional fondue of gently bubbling Swiss cheeses with
crusty bread and new potatoes. It is a simple ritual, yet one that
seems perfectly attuned to the setting: hearty, convivial and
deeply rooted in the rhythm of the Swiss Alps. https://pilatus.ch
56 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
Lucerne Riviera
Where Sergei Rachmaninoff found inspiration
Rachmaninoff’s Villa Senar
Between lake and mountains lies a landscape
of rare beauty. At Rachmaninoff’s Villa Senar,
step into the world that shaped some of
Rachmaninoff’s most profound works and still
carries the spirit of his time.
weggis-vitznau.ch
BACK ON TERRA FIRMA AND HOUSED WITH A
sensitively converted century-old Swiss National Bank
building in the city centre, the Rosengart Collection offers
an unexpectedly intimate encounter with some of the 20th
century’s most luminous artists, its Classic Modernist and
Impressionist treasures reflecting the eyes of Siegfried
Rosengart and his daughter, Angela, whose portrait was
remarkably painted by Pablo Picasso five times. A testament
to their close personal friendship as much as the Rosengarts’
support of the artist, young Angela's instinct for art revealed
itself while in her teens, when she fell for a small piece by Paul
Klee, known as Little X, for which she paid fifty Swiss Francs,
one month's salary at that time.
The Rosengart particularly offers an extraordinary insight
into the life and work of Picasso, spanning his entire career,
Pilatus Railway
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The view from atop Mount Pilatus
from delicate early sketches to bold, late compositions, displayed
across a series of calm, light-filled galleries, his evolving visual
language unfolding with quiet clarity as one walks around,
revealing his restless experimentation with form, line and
colour. Alongside dozens of Picasso’s paintings, the collection
includes rare drawings and sculptural works, each reflecting the
artist’s enduring fascination with the human figure. Yet what
distinguishes the Rosengart is not only its depth and breadth,
but its intimacy, allowing visitors to get extraordinarily close to
Picasso’s work. www.rosengart.ch/en
RESEMBLING AN INVITING HOME, TO ENTER MAX
Chocolatier’s event and design studio at 42 Obergrundstrasse,
ten minutes’ walk from the old town, is to feel the stresses of life
melt away almost instantly. Founded in 2009 by Patrik König,
the artisanal brand's roots are deeply personal, drawing its core
inspiration from his son, Max, who has Down's Syndrome, with
the logo specifically honouring the 21st chromosome. Designed
to make participants slow-down, relax and enjoy every moment,
a two-hour private tasting and bar making session is both a
journey into the world of fine chocolate and a lesson in producing
a personalised chocolate bar. A guided tour through the intimate
chocolate factory, and seeing up-close the live production of
everything from caramelised almonds to hand-decorated seasonal
gifts, is the icing on the couverture cake, as it were, rounding-off a
heavenly afternoon in sweet style. www.maxchocolatier.com/en
A SHORT TAXI RIDE OUT OF THE CENTRE, THE SWISS
Museum of Transport is understandably Switzerland’s most
visited museum. Far from being a static collection, its
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
59
immersive world is designed to be touched, tested and
experienced by kids and adults alike, with a wide variety of
exhibits appealing to all ages.
Throughout the site, the story of mobility unfolds across past
and present: historic locomotives sit alongside sleek modern
trains, while aviation halls trace the evolution of flight from early
aircraft to modern-day drones. The museum also delves into road
transport, offering much to delight car enthusiasts, including a
robotic crane that retrieves rare vehicles from a huge car bookcase,
and presents them to visitors for a fleeting close-up encounter
before returning them to the shelves. Yet it is the museum’s
interactive spirit that truly defines it, invites curiosity at every
turn, and gives life to the mechanics of movement: Visitors can
play the role of a Formula One driver via a realistic simulator;
experience the controlled jolt of a car crash test, and be disoriented
by the gravity-free environment of a simulated space station
courtesy of large, slowly-rotating cube. www.verkehrshaus.ch/en
AFTER THE MUSEUM, TAKE A LEISURELY LAKESIDE
walk back into the center to visit Lucerne’s landmark Lion
Monument. Carved directly into a vast natural rock face above
a tranquil pond in tribute to Swiss soldiers who died in Paris
in 1792, the work was conceived by Danish sculptor Bertel
Thorvaldsen, who created the design in 1819. Over the course of
two years, it painstakingly carved into the sandstone by Lukas
Ahorn of Constance, initially under the supervision of Urs
Pankraz Eggenschwiler. www.loewendenkmal-luzern.ch/en
Within a stone’s throw of the Lion Monument and housed
within a purpose-built rotunda, the 1881 Bourbaki Panorama by
Édouard Castres is an immense 112-metre 19th century circular
Musegg Wall
COVER STORY
LUCERNE
painting, which depicts the internment of 87,000 French soldiers
who fled into Switzerland during the winter of 1871, at the close
of the Franco Prussian War. One of very few surviving panoramic
paintings in Europe, it remains a powerful cultural landmark to
this day, illustrating a important period in Swiss history.
www.bourbakipanorama.ch/en
Chateau-Guetsch
FOR SOME FINE YET UNPRETENTIOUS DINING,
reserve a table at Scala Restaurant at Art Deco Hotel Montana,
where lunch unfolds in a serene, almost conservatory-like
room overlooking Lake Lucerne, lit along one wall by expansive
windows. Presided over by friendly staff for whom nothing is too
much trouble, exquisitely presented seasonal dishes are served
with polished attentiveness, and enjoying a meal at Scala feels
refined, unrushed and inherently Lucernian. www.hotel-montana.ch
COVER STORY
LUCERNE
AFTER LUNCH, HEAD TO THE LUCERNE MUSEUM,
which deftly explores the region’s distinct identity. In one
building, the focus is on the natural world, with displays of
insects and sparkling rock crystals. While across the way,
the narrative deepens, with carefully preserved objects from
the canton of Lucerne presented on industrial metal shelving,
each a fragment of the area’s lived history. Barcodes, rather
than text panels, integrated with tablets, invite a more personal
encounter, allowing visitors to access layered stories in their own
language and lending the experience a sense of modernity.
www.museumluzern.ch
DESPITE ITS PROXIMITY TO SOME OF EUROPE’S MOST
celebrated wine regions, Swiss wine rarely travels, with the vast
majority consumed within the country itself. Widely respected for
her work in Bordeaux at Château La Lagune and in the Rhône
Valley at Domaine Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Caroline Frey has, in
recent years, turned a more focused eye towards Switzerland,
where her family roots lie. Known for her precise, thoughtful
approach to viticulture, and for championing organic and
biodynamic practices, Frey brings a quiet confidence to everything
she produces. Two particular Swiss wines, both produced by Frey,
standout: A bright and expressive Petite Arvine from Valais, Les
Perches 2024, which demonstrates a clarity that feels in keeping
with its Alpine origins. The other, a Gamay, Clos Follatères 2024,
offers something altogether different: supple, composed and finely
judged, with just enough structure to give it shape without feeling
heavy. Together, these two wines speak not only of the country, but
also of intent, both palpably shaped with restraint, balance and a
clear sense of identity. https://carolinefrey.ch
END YOUR VISIT TO LUCERNE AT CHÂTEAU GÜTSCH,
the arrival being part of the occasion, via a short funicular that
deposits guests at this lofty fairytale-like address. Inside, the
American Bar is something of a city institution and channels
Belle Époque romance with a distinctly current finesse. At the
helm is Michael Müller, named Swiss Barkeeper of the Year
2025, whose work brings rigor and finesse to the glass. His
cocktails feel finely judged and urbane, entirely suited to one of
the Lucerne's most cinematic perches. www.chateau-guetsch.ch/en
LUCERNE ULTIMATELY LEAVES ITS MARK NOT
through spectacle, but through accumulation: lake, stone,
mountain, art, craft and memory, each adding weight to the
next. It is a city of rare coherence, where heritage is never
merely decorative and beauty is never incidental. By the time
one departs, what remains is not simply the recollection of
a place, but the sense of having entered a world
arranged with uncommon poise, and understood best
by giving it time. www.luzern.com/en
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COVER STORY
LUCERNE
S TAY
Bürgenstock Funicular
Contemporary Lake View Bay Suite
BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT
BÜRGENSTOCK 17, 6363 OBBÜRGEN, SWITZERLAND
SET HIGH ABOVE LAKE LUCERNE ON A FORESTED RIDGE
in the canton of Nidwalden, Bürgenstock Resort has long
occupied a singular place in Switzerland’s hospitality landscape.
Reached by catamaran from Lucerne and the resort’s own funicular
railway, the ascent itself feels ceremonial, carrying guests away
from the bustle of the city towards a mountaintop enclave where
the air sharpens, the lake glimmers far below, and the Alps stretch
across the horizon in dramatic procession. Yet despite its proximity to
Lucerne, the atmosphere here feels distinctly removed from everyday
life, shaped as much by silence and scale as by service and design.
The story of Bürgenstock began in 1873, when pioneering hoteliers
Franz Josef Bucher and Josef Durrer opened the original Grand Hotel
Bürgenstock. Their ambition was audacious for its time: to create a
refined alpine retreat that combined restorative mountain scenery with
the standards of comfort expected by Europe’s elite. The arrival of the
Bürgenstock funicular in 1888 further cemented the resort’s reputation,
transforming the clifftop hideaway into one of the continent’s most
coveted addresses.
Over the decades, aristocrats, artists and statesmen all gravitated here,
drawn not by ostentation but by the discretion for which Switzerland has
long been admired.
That sense of privacy became central to the resort’s mythology.
Audrey Hepburn married Mel Ferrer in the small chapel within the estate
in 1954, while Sophia Loren and Carlo Ponti famously spent extended
periods residing on the mountain. Charlie Chaplin also sought refuge
here, appreciating the tranquillity afforded by the resort’s expansive
grounds and secluded setting. Even during its most glamorous years
in the mid twentieth century, Bürgenstock cultivated an atmosphere of
understated sophistication rather than spectacle. Its terraces may have
attracted film stars and industrialists, yet the mood remained measured
and composed, more old world sanctuary than social stage.
Following a quieter chapter towards the end of the 20th century, the
resort underwent a massive transformation before reopening in 2017
as a vast contemporary complex comprising several hotels, residences,
restaurants and wellness facilities spread across the ridge. The scale of
the redevelopment was considerable, yet careful attention was paid to
preserving the spirit of the original property. Historic architecture sits
comfortably alongside sleek modern interventions, while a plethora of
floor-to-ceiling glass directs attention back towards the extraordinary
panoramas surrounding the resort.
Today, Bürgenstock occupies an elevated position amongst Europe's
finest resorts: large enough to feel self contained, yet intimate enough
to retain a sense of calm. Guests arrive for many reasons, whether
to spend afternoons in the vast Alpine Spa, walk woodland paths
overlooking the lake, or simply sit quietly as clouds drift across
Lake Lucerne. What lingers most, however, is not any single suite,
restaurant or leisure facility, but the remarkable equilibrium between
nature, history and hospitality that Bürgenstock has maintained for
more than 150 years.
https://burgenstockresort.com
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THE QUEEN SUITE
➤ CASTLE ELVIRA, TREPUZZI, ITALY
suit e envy
puglia’s most theatrical suite
JUST OUTSIDE LECCE, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU CHECKS INTO A REGAL
CASTLE RETREAT, WHERE RESTORED HISTORIC DETAILING, COLLECTED ART, AND
CINEMATIC ITALIAN GLAMOUR COME TOGETHER IN THEATRICAL HARMONY
SUITE ENVY
CASTLE ELVIRA
SOUTHERN PUGLIA POSSESSES A
markedly different rhythm to much
of Italy. The further south one travels
beyond Bari and the region’s larger
commercial centres, the more the
landscape begins to loosen and the atmosphere soften.
Roads narrow between olive groves, dry stone walls
cut through expanses of farmland, and afternoons
seem to slow beneath the peninsula’s southern light.
In Salento, occupying the heel of Italy’s boot, the
ambiance feels increasingly detached from metropolitan
Italy altogether, shaped instead by agriculture,
estates, authentic towns and generations of layered
Mediterranean influence. And as we drive towards my
home for the coming days, I feel myself calming down
soon after leaving Brindisi-Salento Airport. The effect
is almost magical.
LECCE VERY MUCH REMAINS THE REGION’S
cultural and architectural focal point. Often described
as the Florence of the south, the city is celebrated for
its exuberant Baroque architecture, much of it sculpted
from the area’s warm local limestone. Yet while visitors
naturally gravitate towards Lecce’s churches, piazzas
and elaborately ornamented façades, the countryside
surrounding the city reveals another side of Salento
entirely. Historic masserie sit hidden behind high walls
and mature gardens, long private drives disappear into
dense greenery, and palms, citrus trees, and cypress
punctuate the otherwise farming landscape.
IT IS WITHIN THIS SETTING, ALONG VIA ANDRANO
on the outskirts of Lecce, that Castle Elvira appears
beyond electric gates at the end of a stately driveway
surrounded by landscaped grounds. Constructed
during the late 19th century, the property resembles
an aristocratic folly more than a conventional castle, its
romantic silhouette defined by towers, arched terraces,
and decorative architectural flourishes. Since opening
as a boutique hotel in 2022, however, the estate has
become known less for historical grandeur alone and
more for its highly individual decorative identity.
PURCHASED IN 2018 BY BRITISH OWNERS
Steven Riseley and Harvey B-Brown, the castle
underwent an extensive multi year-restoration that
preserved original architectural features while
introducing contemporary artworks, collected furniture,
and modern comforts throughout. Rather than pursuing
restrained minimalism or traditional period restoration,
the couple have created something considerably more
expressive: a property shaped as much by personal taste
and theatrical instinct as by luxury hotel design.
THIS INDIVIDUALITY BECOMES APPARENT
almost immediately inside the castle itself. Public rooms
combine restored historic detailing with contemporary
art, oversized decorative objects, antique furnishings,
and dramatic lighting. Original tiled floors run through
corridors and salons, while tall ceilings preserve the
scale and proportion of the building’s aristocratic
origins. A Bechstein grand piano anchors one reception
room. Elsewhere, sculptures, portraiture, and collectible
twentieth century design pieces appear throughout the
interiors in arrangements that feel lovingly assembled
rather than formally curated.
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69
YET DESPITE ITS VISUAL RICHNESS AND
plethora of eye-catching treasures, Castle Elvira does
not feel like a museum. On the contrary, a deeply
personal world shaped by art, fantasy and intense
storytelling, checking in feels less like a hotel and more
akin to arriving at the dazzling private residence of
well connected friends, who literally could not be more
welcoming. It is this genuine sense of hospitality that
has earned Castle Elvira a loyal following of repeat
guests around the world. And as one walks around,
with a strong Aperol Spritz in hand, there is apparent
warmth within the decorative layering, alongside
moments of humour, eccentricity, and outright glamour
that distinguish the castle from the increasingly
homogenised aesthetic dominating many contemporary
luxury hotels.
THE ESTATE’S ACCOMMODATION IS
intentionally limited in scale, reinforcing the
atmosphere of a home rather than a hotel. Within the
main castle building, just four principal suites occupy
the upper floors, each possessing its own decorative
identity and spatial arrangement. Among them, The
Queen Suite stands apart as perhaps the clearest
distillation of Castle Elvira’s personality, as well as
being the property’s premier room.
POSITIONED OVERLOOKING THE ESTATE’S
gardens and St. Elia Ridge, the suite consists of a salon,
a bathroom cum dressing room, and a rather special
bedroom. Arranged more like a private apartment
than a hotel suite, original painted cement tiles are
one of its defining features, their geometric patterns
extending throughout the interiors in muted tones of
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SUITE ENVY
CASTLE ELVIRA
terracotta, sage, charcoal, cream, and dusty blue. Far
from functioning merely as preserved historical detail,
the flooring establishes a decorative rhythm for the
connected spaces, and even extends to trompe l'œil
shelf coverings in one of the wardrobes, whimsically
featuring all manner of items that former guests may
have left behind.
IN THE STYLISH SALON, THE ATMOSPHERE IS
overtly cinematic and fashion-oriented. Walls painted
in muted rose tones are framed by restored decorative
plasterwork and high ceilings, while oversized
contemporary artworks introduce graphic contrast
and elevate the scale of the room. A pair of large and
colourful African Grey Parrot works by Adorned &
Adored, named //Lovebirds//, flank a pair of tall glazed
doors through which light floods in all day. On another
wall in the salon, a large-scale dancing girls piece,
created especially for the space, deftly brings together
all the colours in the room. An original Fornasetti lamp
sits on a large vintage distressed cabinet which was
purchased in Ostuni. And ample seating is provided
courtesy of a pair of vintage white leather armchairs
and an oversized velvet sofa in warm apricot tones,
on which I recline and sip tea every morning, while
gazing at the gently swaying palms outside. From the
Juliet balcony, I can see for miles, past the castle's lush
landscaped gardens and swimming pools, towards
verdant countryside and the horizon beyond.
FROM THE SALON, THE LIVING SPACES
surrounding the bathroom – which is semi separated
from the room by a tall muted metallic glazed partition
– are home to a sculptural chaise longue, a dressing
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71
SUITE ENVY
CASTLE ELVIRA
Madama Butterfly Suite
table (on which I park my laptop), and a beautiful
console positioned under a window, which contains
a kaleidoscope of hand-painted three-dimensional
butterflies. Linking the salon with the bedroom, the
area functions perfectly as a place to get ready, send a
few emails, or select an outfit for dinner. Central to the
room, however, is an enormous Carrara marble bathtub,
weighing almost a ton, equipped with brass industrialesque
fittings by IB Rubinetti. In the bathroom and walkin
rain-shower (which is dramatically concealed within
one of the castle’s towers), large bottles of luxe Sicilian
Ortigia creams and soaps are on hand at every turn.
THE BEDROOM CONTINUES THE DECORATIVE
confidence established in the living spaces. Ochre walls
frame an oversized monochromatic work by Sharon
Pinsker, one of the UK's foremost figurative artists,
which is suspended above a huge leather "Mayfair
Dream" bed designed by Dainelli Studio for Florencebased
Arketipo. Above, the beautiful ceilings are
entirely original, and opposite the bed, a television
is completely concealed behind a glamorous mirror. I
don’t switch it on once, for I am either eating, drinking,
relaxing, or enjoying the glorious company of Riseley
and B-Brown for the duration of my stay.
ELSEWHERE, MODERN INTERVENTIONS REMAIN
intentionally discreet. Integrated climate systems,
underfloor heating and cooling, and contemporary
lighting have all been incorporated without disrupting
the suite’s historic fabric or decorative identity.
WHAT ULTIMATELY DISTINGUISHES THE QUEEN
Suite is not extravagance alone, although visually it
is undeniably striking. Rather, it is the clarity and
consistency of its personality. In an era when many
luxury suites increasingly resemble one another
regardless of geography or setting, The Queen Suite
feels entirely specific to Castle Elvira: theatrical yet
intimate, decorative yet deeply comfortable, fashionable
without formality, and, most importantly, entirely
disinterested in contemporary hospitality minimalism.
The average nightly rate for The Queen Suite at
Castle Elvira is EUR 1,100 inclusive of breakfast
and taxes.
https://castleelvira.com
72 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
https:// www.
ELEGANCE IN MOVEMENT SINCE 1929
EXPLORE THE DESTINATION AT WWW.PRINCEDEGALLESPARIS.COM
PRAGUE
CZECHIA
PRAGUE
a bohemian capital
moving with time
CITY
FOCUS
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
RETURNS TO THE CZECH
CAPITAL TO EXPLORE A CITY
WHERE GOTHIC, RENAISSANCE
AND BAROQUE GRANDEUR
COEXIST WITH CONTEMPORARY
ART, EVOLVING GASTRONOMY
AND A QUIETLY MODERNISING
CULTURAL PULSE
FEW EUROPEAN CAPITALS
present such an intact and coherent
architectural narrative as Prague.
Rising in a succession of spires, domes
and towers above the Vltava, the Czech capital
is a veritable living archive of Gothic ambition,
Renaissance refinement and Baroque flourish. And
unlike many of its continental counterparts, the
city escaped widespread destruction during the
twentieth century. As a result, Prague's historic core
remains remarkably preserved. Streets, squares and
ecclesiastical buildings exist not as fragments but
as a continuous and legible whole, offering a rare
sense of immersion in a past that has not been at all
reconstructed, but rather well maintained.
YET BEYOND THIS VISUAL RICHNESS LIES
a more nuanced question. In an era where expectations
have evolved and travellers increasingly seek
engagement beyond façades and monuments, Prague
must also be considered through a contemporary lens.
Its enduring beauty is unquestioned. But whether its
artistic and culinary offerings have matured with equal
confidence is another question entirely.
SET AT THE GEOGRAPHICAL CENTRE OF
Europe, the Czech Republic shares borders with
Germany, Austria, Poland and Slovakia, placing
Prague within easy reach of several major cities. Rail
connections from Vienna, Munich and Berlin arrive
with efficiency, depositing travellers directly into the
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CITY FOCUS
PRAGUE
capital’s compact centre. From here, the city unfolds
with ease, its scale encouraging exploration on foot.
Meanwhile, its layout, shaped over centuries, feels
both intuitive and layered.
THE VLTAVA DEFINES PRAGUE’S GEOGRAPHY
and, in many respects, its character. Flowing from
south to north, the river divides the city into two
distinct yet complementary halves. To the west lies
Malá Strana, a district of palaces, gardens and
embassies, pressed gently between the riverbank and
the rising ground of Hradčany. To the east, the Old
Town and New Town extend outward in a network of
squares and thoroughfares where commerce, culture
and daily life converge.
MALÁ STRANA IS WITHOUT DOUBT ONE
of the city's most atmospheric quarters. Cobbled
streets curve past Baroque façades, revealing quiet
courtyards and enclosed gardens that offer moments
of calm away from the steady movement of visitors. It
is here that Prague feels at its most intimate, where
the scale of the architecture invites closer attention,
and where the rhythm of daily life continues
alongside the presence of those passing through.
Above, Prague Castle asserts its presence over the
city with majestic authority.
ESTABLISHED IN THE NINTH CENTURY BY
Prince Bořivoj of the Přemyslid dynasty and built
in stages over centuries, Prague Castle is widely
regarded as the largest ancient castle complex in
the world and encompasses palaces, churches, halls
and gardens arranged across an expansive hilltop
site. Yet while its scale is indeed considerable, its
organisation allows for a measured exploration, with
each part contributing to a broader understanding of
the city’s historical trajectory.
Malá Strana
CITY FOCUS
PRAGUE
Žižkov
Television
Tower
Charles Bridge
TAKING NEARLY 600 YEARS TO COMPLETE,
St. Vitus Cathedral essentially defines the castle
complex. Begun in 1344 under the patronage of
Charles IV and shaped in part by master builder Petr
Parléř, its intricate stonework and soaring vaults
remain among the most accomplished expressions
of Gothic design in Central Europe. Light filters
through stained glass windows with a clarity that
enhances the verticality of the space, drawing the
eye upward and reinforcing the cathedral’s sense of
architectural ambition. katedralasvatehovita.cz
St. Vitus Cathedral
NEARBY, THE OLD ROYAL PALACE OFFERS
insight into the political life of the Bohemian
kingdom, while St. George’s Basilica provides a
quieter counterpoint, its Romanesque origins evident
in its solidity and form. Golden Lane, with its modest
houses, introduces a more intimate scale, offering a
glimpse into the lives of those who once inhabited the
castle’s margins. https://hrad.cz/en/prague-castle-for-visitors
FROM THE CASTLE'S ELEVATED TERRACES,
the city reveals itself in spectacular fashion below,
the Vltava's surface punctuated by a sequence of
bridges, each contributing to the city’s visual rhythm.
In the distance, the Žižkov Television Tower rises
above the skyline, a reminder of a more recent
chapter in Prague’s architectural narrative. Standing
at 216 metres, it remains the tallest structure in
the city, and even contains a hotel suite for a lofty
overnight stay with a difference https://towerpark.cz
DESCENDING FROM THE CASTLE, THE ROUTE
leads naturally towards historic Charles Bridge, the
city’s world-famous crossing. Commissioned by King
Charles IV in 1357, completed in the early 15th century,
and the only means to traverse the river for over 400
years, it was a vital pathway for Bohemian kings during
their coronation processions. Today the bridge connects
Malá Strana with the Old Town, its length lined with
dozens of ornate statues depicting saints and religious
figures. Despite the near constant presence of visitors,
there are moments in the very early morning when the
bridge regains a sense of stillness, allowing its immense
presence to shine. Visit soon after sunrise, or prepare
for crowds of people.
78 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
one more night
SOME MOMENTS ARE TOO GOOD TO END
Discover Mandarin Oriental, Prague, where historic charm meets contemporary comfort. Nestled in the
heart of the Golden City, enjoy tranquil surroundings, refined hospitality, and an unforgettable stay,
with a complimentary night on us that gives you more time to unwind and explore at your own pace.
Mandarin Oriental, Prague
Nebovidská 459/1, Malá Strana, 118 00 Prague, Czech Republic, +420 233 088 888, moprg-reservations@mohg.com
CITY FOCUS
PRAGUE
Church of Our Lady before Týn
Astronomical clock
ONCE CROSSED INTO THE OLD TOWN, PRAGUE
palpably shifts in character. The streets widen,
the scale increases, and the density of activity
becomes more apparent. Old Town Square forms
the historical and symbolic centre, enclosed by
buildings that span multiple architectural periods.
Among them, the Church of Our Lady before Týn
rises with twin towers that have long defined the
city’s skyline, their dark silhouettes visible from
across Prague.
The Old Town Hall houses the astronomical clock,
first installed in 1410 and widely regarded as one
of the oldest working clocks of its kind. While the
hourly display continues to attract attention, the
true significance lies in its intricate mechanism
and its representation of medieval understandings
of time and astronomy.
A short distance away, the Powder Tower stands
as one of the original gateways to the Old Town.
Constructed in the 15th century, it once formed part
of the royal route leading to Prague Castle, along
which monarchs processed en route to being crowned.
Today, it marks the transition between the historic
centre and the broader city beyond, serving as a
reminder of Prague’s ceremonial past.
BEYOND ITS ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE, A
more contemporary side of Prague is evident through
its evolving cultural landscape, especially in Holešovice.
Located to the north of the centre, Holešovice is
undergoing multi-billion crown municipal investments,
transforming the neighbourhood into a fully
integrated art, theatre and leisure hotspot. Former
industrial spaces have been repurposed into galleries,
performance venues and studios, creating an
environment that reflects a forward-looking
creative energy.
80 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
AT THE CENTRE OF THIS TRANSFORMATION
is DOX Centre for Contemporary Art, known for its
ambitious exhibitions and interdisciplinary approach.
Its programme engages with social and political
themes via a range of media, while the building itself
incorporates striking architectural interventions that
signal the district’s progressive outlook. www.dox.cz
PRAGUE’S CULINARY SCENE IS EVOLVING
in parallel. Traditional Czech cuisine, long defined
by hearty dishes and robust flavours, is now
complemented by a more considered approach that
balances heritage with contemporary techniques.
Across the city, menus increasingly reflect seasonal
produce, careful sourcing and refined presentation.
Within the castle district, Kuchyň offers a
contemporary interpretation of Czech cooking, served
in a setting that connects directly to the city’s history.
https://kuchyn.ambi.cz/en
Eska, in the revitalised Karlín district, combines
Czech culinary traditions with modern baking,
fermentation and open fire cooking, creating
ingredients led dishes that feel distinctly local while
remaining unmistakably contemporary in execution
https://eska.ambi.cz/en
And at Michelin starred Field, seasonal
Czech produce is transformed into precise and
highly detailed tasting menus that place regional
ingredients within a modern fine dining context
shaped by technique, balance and understated
creativity. www.fieldrestaurant.cz/en
Powder Tower
MANDARIN
ORIENTAL
PRAGUE
MALÁ STRANA, PRAGUE, CZECHIA
OCCUPYING A FORMER DOMINICAN MONASTERY IN THE HEART OF
the Czech capital’s atmospheric Malá Strana quarter, Mandarin
Oriental Prague is among the city’s most quietly distinguished
hospitality addresses. Hidden behind a modest Baroque façade
on a cobbled lane, the hotel feels deeply connected to the city’s
architectural and cultural fabric, while remaining completely removed
from the madding crowds that frequent nearby Charles Bridge. And
while the hotel's setting alone is compelling, it is the way the property
preserves and inhabits its centuries old structure that leaves the
stronger impression.
The building’s layered history deftly remains visible throughout
the hotel. Gothic foundations, Renaissance detailing and Baroque
flourishes coexist with plush interiors that avoid unnecessary
theatricality. Original vaulted ceilings, exposed beams and irregular
layouts have been carefully retained, allowing each of the hotel’s 99
rooms and suites to feel individual rather than formulaic. Some enjoy
views of Prague Castle and St. Nicholas Church, while others overlook
the streets and rooftops of Malá Strana, or face tranquil gardens
and monastery courtyards that lend the property an almost retreat
like feel. Throughout, despite its central location, the sense of calm is
remarkable, and welcome.
This understated approach continues in the hotel’s public spaces.
Corridors trace the route of former monastic passageways, while
beneath the spa, glass flooring reveals remnants of the long-vanished
Church of St. Mary Magdalene, uncovered during the building’s
restoration. The spa itself, set within a former Renaissance chapel,
remains one of Prague’s most atmospheric wellness settings.
Dining is centred around Monastiq, where executive chef Michal
Horváth reinterprets Czech cuisine with a lighter, seasonal sensibility.
Elsewhere, the adjoining bar and lounge evolves gently throughout the
day, shifting from a relaxed daytime meeting spot into a sophisticated
evening venue.
In a city celebrated for grandeur and spectacle, Mandarin Oriental
Prague instead offers discretion, stillness and a uniquely intimate
connection to Prague’s historic past.
www.mandarinoriental.com/en/prague
The Dancing House
EQUALLY WELCOME IS THE EMERGENCE OF
a more discerning café and wine bar culture. Across
both sides of the river, smaller venues serve carefully
prepared coffee and thoughtfully selected wines,
often in intimate settings that favour atmosphere
over scale. At EMA espresso bar, speciality coffee
and understated Scandinavian influenced interiors
have helped cultivate a loyal local following. www.
emaespressobar.cz/en Meanwhile, nearby La Cave d’Adrien
has become known for its carefully chosen French wines
and quietly cosmopolitan atmosphere. www.instagram.
com/lacavedadrien And a short walk away, Bokovka offers
a more intimate setting still, with a strong emphasis
on natural and low intervention wines served alongside
top quality Amaso charcuterie within characterful
surrounds, tucked behind old streets. www.bokovka.com/
en Together, such venues contribute to a broader sense
that Prague is adapting to the expectations of a wellheeled
audience while retaining its distinct character.
NEARBY, THE CHURCH OF SAINT NICHOLAS
stands as one of Prague’s most accomplished
Baroque interiors. Completed over the course of the
18th century, its vast dome and richly decorated
surfaces create a space of remarkable theatricality.
Frescoes, stucco work and a grand organ combine to
produce an environment that feels both opulent and
cohesive, reflecting the ambitions of its creators.
www.stnicholas.cz/en
AS PRAGUE CONTINUES TO EVOLVE, MOMENTS
of contemporary expression appear alongside its
historic fabric. One of the first examples was The
Dancing House, completed in 1996 and designed by
IN MALÁ STRANA, VOJAN GARDENS OFFER
a moment of quiet reflection. Among the oldest
green spaces in the city, their origins lie in a former
monastery garden, and today they provide a welcome
contrast to the surrounding streets. Mature trees and
open lawns lend the gardens a sense of calm that feels
removed from the pace of the city beyond their walls.
Field
82 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
CITY FOCUS
PRAGUE
IVETA KOPICOVAC COURTESY OF DOX
DOX
Vlado Milunić in collaboration with Frank Gehry. Its
sculptural form introduces a sense of movement along
the riverbank, standing in deliberate contrast to the
surrounding architecture. And from its upper levels,
views extend across the Vltava towards the castle,
reinforcing the relationship between past and present
that defines the city. www.dancinghouse.cz/en
CRAFT REMAINS AN IMPORTANT ELEMENT
of Prague’s cultural identity. Bohemian crystal
continues to be produced and presented with a level
of precision that reflects centuries of expertise,
demonstrating both endurance and adaptation
within the craft.
Long established Czech glassmakers such
as Rückl, whose contemporary collections are
created in collaboration with modern designers
while still cut by hand in the company’s Nižbor
workshop, illustrate how traditional techniques are
being reinterpreted for a younger and more design
conscious audience. https://ruckl.com/en
Equally, Lasvit has helped reposition Bohemian
glass within an international contemporary context,
through ambitious architectural installations
and sculptural lighting commissions that appear
in hotels, galleries and private residences worldwide.
www.lasvit.com
Together, Rückl and Lasvit reflect a wider
shift within the Czech crystal industry
towards innovation, artistic collaboration and
contemporary relevance, without abandoning the
craftsmanship upon which its reputation was built.
AFTER VISITING A VARIETY OF CULTURAL
institutions, medieval landmarks and restaurants,
it is when I return to the streets that it becomes
clear how Prague’s character is shaped as much
by its public spaces as by its architecture, old
and new alike. Squares continue to function as
natural points of convergence, while narrower
lanes and covered passageways encourage slower
exploration, often leading unexpectedly into quiet
courtyards or overlooked architectural gems.
Much like Vienna, Prague is a city that rewards
patience and observation rather than a whistlestop
visit. And it is a city where the atmosphere
changes greatly with the seasons. In winter,
Prague feels more introspective, its stone façades
and riverbanks taking on a quieter, almost
cinematic quality. Warmer months alter the
rhythm entirely, drawing people outdoors onto
terraces, embankments and café lined piazzas,
lending the city a much greater sense of movement
and sociability.
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
83
CITY FOCUS
PRAGUE
VIEWED AS THE SUN SETS OVER THE CITY,
from Clouds restaurant, 66 metres up the Žižkov
Television Tower, the coherence of Prague’s
architectural landscape becomes even more striking,
and the skyline is shaped not by isolated landmarks,
but by continuity: a dense arrangement of spires,
domes and towers extending across the horizon with
a balance that feels remarkably intact. It is perhaps
here, at dusk, that Prague’s relationship between
past and present feels most convincing. Historic
structures stand firm, yet contemporary interventions
appear with increasing confidence and restraint.
Rather than competing with the city’s inherited
beauty, they suggest a capital that continues to evolve
carefully, conscious that its greatest strength lies
not only in preservation, but in the measured way it
adapts to the present.
PRAGUE DOES NOT SEEK TO COMPETE WITH
more overtly modern capitals. Instead, it refines
what it already possesses, allowing change to occur
in a measured and considered way. For seasoned
cultured travellers, this offers a form of engagement
that is both immediate and enduring. Prague can be
appreciated for its historical depth, yet it also invites
exploration beyond its most recognisable landmarks. In
doing so, it reveals a capital that remains firmly grounded
in its heritage, while quietly accommodating the
expectations of those of us who arrive with a more
discerning perspective. https://prague.eu/en
Charles Bridge
85
GLASGOW
SCOTLAND
scotland’s
cultural
powerhouse
GLASG
SCOTLAND’S LARGEST CITY REVEALS ITSELF TO NIALL PALMER THROUGH
ARCHITECTURE, ARTISTRY, MUSIC, DESIGN AND A CULTURAL CONFIDENCE
SHAPED BY REINVENTION, WHERE HISTORIC INDUSTRY HAS GIVEN WAY TO
ONE OF BRITAIN’S MOST DISTINCTIVE URBAN IDENTITIES
DESTINATION
SPOTLIGHT
OW
87
THERE IS A PARTICULAR QUALITY OF LIGHT
that settles over Glasgow on a summer evening,
one that lingers well beyond expectation and
stretches the day into something generous and
expansive. It softens sandstone façades, catches in the broad curve
of the River Clyde, and glances off windows, cornices and church
spires in a way that lends the city an unexpected grace. At such
moments, Glasgow feels less like the industrial powerhouse it once
was and more like a place that has grown fully into its reinvention.
THAT REINVENTION IS CENTRAL TO ANY
understanding of the city. For much of the 19th and 20th
centuries, Glasgow’s identity was bound to shipbuilding,
engineering, tobacco, trade and heavy industry, its fortunes
rising and falling with the yards and workshops that lined the
Clyde. The physical legacy of that era remains embedded in the
urban fabric, visible in the scale of its streets, the muscularity
of its public buildings and the pragmatic order of its grid.
Yet Glasgow today is not defined by decline or nostalgia. It
is shaped by the confidence with which it has transformed
industry into culture, labour into creativity and civic pride into
one of Britain’s most compelling city experiences.
THE SHIFT DID NOT HAPPEN OVERNIGHT. RECOGNITION
as European City of Culture in 1990 marked a decisive
moment, signalling both intent and possibility. The 2014
Commonwealth Games brought further attention and
investment, particularly along the East End and the Clyde. Yet
the most persuasive evidence of Glasgow’s renewal lies not in a
single event, but in the texture of the city itself. Old warehouses
have become cultural spaces, former industrial districts have
found new rhythm, and neighbourhoods once overlooked now
form part of a wider urban story.
ARCHITECTURE OFFERS PERHAPS THE CLEAREST
expression of this layered identity. In the city centre, Glasgow
City Chambers presides over George Square with ceremonial
grandeur, its late Victorian confidence still undiminished.
Opened in 1888 and designed by William Young, it speaks
of a city that once saw itself as the second city of the British
Empire. Public tours are conducted twice per day at 10.30am
and 2.30pm Monday through Friday.
www.glasgow.gov.uk/article/1066/City-Chambers-Tour
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SPOTLIGHT
GLASGOW
Queens Park
University of Glasgow
AROUND THE CITY CHAMBERS, STREETS RADIATE
in measured lines, revealing carved stone, decorative
ironwork, elaborate pediments and façades that reward
regular upward glances. Glasgow is a city best read
vertically as well as horizontally, for its richest details often
sit way above street level. To the east, the city’s deeper
history gathers around Glasgow Cathedral. Built in the
1100s and dedicated to St Kentigern, better known as St
Mungo, it remains the most complete medieval cathedral
on the Scottish mainland and one of the great survivals
of pre Reformation Scotland. Its dark stone and soaring
Gothic interior give the surrounding precinct an atmosphere
quite unlike anywhere else in the city. Within view of the
Cathedral at the top of Castle Street stands Provand’s
Lordship, built in 1471 and recognised as Glasgow’s oldest
house, a rare domestic survivor from medieval times.
https://glasgowcathedral.org
SPOTLIGHT
GLASGOW
BEHIND THE CATHEDRAL RISES THE NECROPOLIS,
Glasgow’s Victorian city of the dead, reached via the Bridge
of Sighs and arranged across a hill that offers one of the most
rewarding views back towards the city. Around 50,000 people
are buried here, though far fewer are named on monuments.
Wandering among its obelisks, angels and weathered tombs,
one encounters Glasgow’s mercantile, civic and professional
past in concentrated form. It is a place of melancholy, certainly,
but also of perspective. The city unfolds below, alive and
restless, while above it the names of those who shaped its rise
remain carved into stone. If you have the time, an informal
walking tour of the Necropolis is a fascinating way to spend a
few hours. www.glasgownecropolis.org
FURTHER WEST, THE ARCHITECTURAL NARRATIVE
shifts in tone yet retains its sense of drama. Kelvingrove Art
Gallery and Museum rises from its parkland setting with
theatrical force, its red sandstone exterior and Spanish
Baroque detail giving way to interiors that feel both grand
and accessible. Within its galleries, fine art, natural history,
armour, design and local memory coexist in a manner that
feels distinctly Glaswegian. The museum does not separate
the sublime from the eccentric. It allows both to stand side
by side. Salvador Dalí’s Christ of Saint John of the Cross
remains its most magnetic work, a painting of startling
stillness and spiritual intensity, held in Glasgow’s collection
since the early 1950s and now regarded as one of the city’s
great cultural treasures.
Glasgow Cathedral
City Chambers
SPOTLIGHT
GLASGOW
A SHORT DISTANCE AWAY, THE UNIVERSITY OF
Glasgow lends the West End one of its most recognisable
silhouettes. Designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott and
built in the Gothic Revival style, its towers and cloisters
dominate the hill above Kelvingrove Park. The university’s
presence gives this part of the city a scholarly, slightly
bohemian texture, particularly around Byres Road and
Ashton Lane, where independent restaurants, bars and
bookshops create an atmosphere quite distinct from the
commercial energy of the centre. On clear evenings, when
light catches the university’s stone and the lanes begin to fill,
the West End offers Glasgow at its most atmospheric.
NO CONSIDERATION OF THE CITY’S DESIGN IDENTITY
can avoid Charles Rennie Mackintosh. His presence is felt not
through flamboyance, but through a quieter and more exacting
language of line, proportion and craft. The Glasgow School of
Art’s Mackintosh Building, designed in phases between 1896
and 1909, remains one of the city’s most important architectural
works, even after the devastating fires of 2014 and 2018. Its
current condition is a painful reminder that heritage is never
guaranteed. Yet Mackintosh’s wider legacy endures through
surviving sites, interiors, drawings and the imagination of
the city itself, not least through the restored Mackintosh at
the Willow tearooms on Sauchiehall Street, where design,
hospitality and social history continue to meet.
92 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
Pollok House
Great stories
begin in Glasgow
From dawn to dusk and into the night, there
are a huge range of things to do in Glasgow.
Explore Glasgow’s music scene on a city
walking tour, or uncover countless treasures
inside its fantastic museums and art galleries.
Search VisitScotland to find out more
SOME OLDER REFERENCES TO GLASGOW’S DESIGN
trail require caution today. The Lighthouse, once Scotland’s
Centre for Design and Architecture and housed in Mackintosh’s
former Glasgow Herald building, remains closed at present.
That closure, rather than diminishing Mackintosh’s
importance, underlines the fragility of cultural stewardship in a
city whose greatest buildings are living responsibilities as much
as visitor attractions.
CONTEMPORARY ARCHITECTURE HAS ALSO LEFT A
strong imprint. On the Clyde, Zaha Hadid’s Riverside Museum
introduced a sharper, more fluid presence when it opened
in 2011, its folded roofline suggesting movement, water and
industrial memory. Inside, Glasgow’s transport, engineering
and shipbuilding histories are explored through trams,
locomotives, cars, bicycles and models that draw families as
readily as design enthusiasts. Outside, the tall ship Glenlee
sits at the water’s edge, anchoring the museum to the maritime
story of the Clyde.
THE RIVER ITSELF IS ESSENTIAL TO GLASGOW’S
identity. Once the artery of industrial might, it now offers
a slower, more reflective way to understand the city. Paths
run beside the water, linking cultural institutions, bridges and
neighbourhoods in a sequence that reveals Glasgow’s changing
face. The Clyde is no longer crowded with the shipyards that made
it famous, but the memory of that world remains present in the
scale of the banks and the openness of the views. It is a place to
walk rather than rush, particularly in the long light of summer.
SOUTH OF THE CENTRE, POLLOK COUNTRY PARK
provides another kind of pause. Its acres of woodland and
open ground hold the Burrell Collection, one of Glasgow’s most
important cultural assets. Reopened in March 2022 after a
major refurbishment and redisplay, the museum now presents
more of Sir William Burrell’s collection than ever before.
Medieval art, Chinese ceramics, Islamic objects, stained glass,
tapestries and paintings sit within a building that allows
the surrounding trees to become part of the experience. It is
worth allowing proper time here. The pleasure lies not only in
individual objects, but in the way the collection moves across
periods and cultures without losing intimacy.
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SPOTLIGHT
GLASGOW
Kelvingrove Park
SPOTLIGHT
GLASGOW
A REFLECTION OF THE STRENGTH AND CONFIDENCE
of Glasgow’s contemporary art scene, the city has, over recent
decades, produced a remarkable number of Turner Prize
winners. Among them is Douglas Gordon, awarded the prize in
1996 for his psychologically charged video works, including 24
Hour Psycho, which reimagined Hitchcock’s film in a slowed,
meditative form. Martin Boyce followed in 2011, recognised
for his sculptural installations that draw on modernist
design and urban space, while Charlotte Prodger received the
award in 2018 for her intimate, diaristic moving image work.
Together, they form part of a wider lineage that has positioned
Glasgow as one of the most influential centres for contemporary
art in Britain.
GLASGOW’S CULTURAL LIFE IS NOT CONFINED TO
art. In 2008, Glasgow became the first UK city to be designated
a UNESCO City of Music, formal recognition of a scene that
had long operated with quiet authority and remarkable breadth.
Music here is not confined to a handful of major venues, but
embedded within the fabric of the city itself, from grand stages
such as the Royal Concert Hall to smaller, characterful spaces
where emerging talent is given room to develop. Genres overlap
and coexist with ease, from classical and Celtic traditions
to indie, electronic and experimental sound, creating a
96
landscape that feels both inclusive and constantly evolving.
Festivals such as Celtic Connections, held each winter, draw
artists and audiences from across the world, while year-round
programming ensures that the city’s musical life rarely pauses.
What distinguishes Glasgow is not simply the quality of what
is performed, but the sense that music remains a lived, shared
experience, woven into everyday life rather than reserved for
occasion. glasgowcityofmusic.com
THEATRE HAS SIMILAR FORCE. THE CITIZENS
Theatre, founded in its modern form in 1943 and long
associated with the Gorbals, has been one of Scotland’s
most significant producing theatres. Following a major
SPOTLIGHT
GLASGOW
The Finnieston Crane on the River Clyde
redevelopment, it reopened in 2025, restoring an important
cultural address to the city. Its return matters not merely as
a building project, but as a renewal of Glasgow’s tradition of
serious, socially engaged performance. Elsewhere, Sharmanka
Kinetic Theatre offers something more unusual: carved figures
and mechanical sculptures moving through sequences of sound
and light. It is strange, touching and memorable, the sort of
place seasoned travellers quietly recommend because it could
belong almost nowhere else.
NEIGHBOURHOODS GIVE GLASGOW MUCH OF ITS
modern rhythm. The Merchant City, once tied to trade and
wealth, has become a district of restaurants, galleries and
handsome streets where the past is always visible in the
architecture. Finnieston, formerly industrial in character, has
evolved into one of the city’s most engaging areas for food and
drink, particularly along and around Argyle Street. The West
End offers a more relaxed counterpoint, with Ashton Lane
providing a picturesque, cobbled pocket of bars and restaurants,
best encountered when the evening is already underway.
EATING IN GLASGOW HAS CHANGED CONSIDERABLY
since the older version of this article was written. It is no longer
accurate to describe the city as lacking Michelin recognition.
Cail Bruich and Unalome both hold one star in the MICHELIN
Guide, marking confidence in Glasgow’s dining scene. Yet the
appeal of eating here extends beyond awards. The city’s best
kitchens draw on Scottish produce with increasing clarity, from
seafood and game to seasonal vegetables and dairy, while more
casual venues maintain the generosity and lack of pretence that
suit Glasgow well.
WHISKY REMAINS AN INHERENT PART OF SOCIALISING,
though the best way to approach it today is not through
performance, but patience. A traditional pub with a serious
back bar often better informs a visitor than a polished
cocktail lounge. With over 1,000 whiskies, family run The
Pot Still remains a classic address for those wanting breadth
and knowledge, while bars in the West End offer a gentler
introduction to the ritual of the dram. The seasoned traveller
should resist over planning here. In Glasgow, the best evenings
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SPOTLIGHT
GLASGOW
often begin with a single intended stop and gather momentum
from conversation. https://thepotstill.co.uk
FOR ALL ITS CULTURAL CONFIDENCE, GLASGOW IS
also a practical city to navigate. The centre is walkable, though
its slopes can surprise. The Subway, affectionately known as the
Clockwork Orange, is useful for moving between the city centre
and West End, completing its circular route of fifteen stations
in around 24 minutes. Taxis and trains fill in the gaps, but
many of Glasgow’s pleasures appear on foot: street art glimpsed
at the end of a lane; an endearing café behind an unappealing
frontage, or a sudden dramatic view towards a tower or hill.
RETAIL HERE HAS CHARACTER WHEN IT MOVES
away from the predictable. Buchanan Street supplies the
familiar polish of a major shopping city, while nearby arcades
and side streets reward slower browsing. Glasgow has long
had a strong relationship with vintage clothing, records and
independent design, and its shops often reveal the city’s instinct
for individuality. Monorail Music remains a particularly good
stop for anyone interested in the city’s musical intelligence, not
simply as a place to buy vinyl, but as a reminder that Glasgow’s
creative life is rooted in communities as much as institutions. >
https://monorailmusic.com
GLASGOW IS NOT TO BE ADMIRED FROM A DISTANCE.
It is a city that rewards engagement and is hence best
understood by walking its streets, entering its public buildings,
listening to its music, following the Clyde and allowing
neighbourhoods to reveal themselves without haste. What
ultimately distinguishes Glasgow is not a single landmark,
restaurant or museum, but the coherence of its contradictions.
Grand and informal, handsome and raw edged, historically
weighty yet fashionably quick on its feet, Glasgow's identity has
been shaped with grit, warmth, momentum and unmistakable
conviction, making it the perfect UK destination for a
culture-rich weekend break.
www.visitglasgow.com
100
The Clyde Arc
NEW MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART
NEW YORK, UNITED STATES
ART
CULTURE
new york's new museum
enters a new era
JASON O'REAR
AT NEW YORK’S NEW MUSEUM, A MAJOR EXPANSION AND A THOUGHT-
PROVOKING REOPENING EXHIBITION REFRAME THE RELATIONSHIP
BETWEEN ART, ARCHITECTURE AND HUMAN IDENTITY, AS MONIKA TRAMŚ
EXPLORES AN INSTITUTION DEFINED BY EVOLUTION
ART CULTURE
NEW MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART
JASON KEEN
JASON O'REAR
IN A CITY WHERE MAJOR MUSEUMS
can overwhelm through sheer scale or
reputation, the New Museum of Contemporary
Art offers something rarer: a genuine sense of
artistic discovery.
Set on the Bowery in Lower Manhattan, it has
long been among New York’s most forward thinking
cultural institutions, yet its recent reopening signals
an altogether new chapter. Following a significant
expansion by OMA alongside its landmark original
2007 building by SANAA, the museum now feels
less like a single destination and more like a living
cultural organism, responsive to the rhythms of
the city around it. It is a shift that mirrors broader
changes in how institutions engage with their
audiences, prioritising openness, exchange and
dialogue over singular authority.
FOR BEING NOT DEFINED BY STATIC
masterpieces or predictable rituals, the New Museum
is an essential stop for travellers shaping a Manhattan
itinerary around culture, design and contemporary
life. A place where art, architecture and public life
intersect with an immediacy that feels distinctly New
York, the experience begins well before one crosses
the threshold, since the surrounding streets, long
associated with artistic experimentation, frame the
visit with a sense of anticipation.
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
103
THE MUSEUM'S ORIGINAL BUILDING REMAINS
one of New York's most recognisable museum
structures. Rising as a stack of subtly offset white
volumes wrapped in a delicate metal mesh, it appears at
once sculptural and atmospheric, its character shifting
with light and weather. OMA's new extension introduces
a luminous counterpart in glass and metal, more
open in expression yet carefully attuned to the earlier
structure. Rather than competing, the two stand in
quiet dialogue, distinct in personality yet inseparable as
a pair. Together, they establish a composed yet dynamic
presence within a neighbourhood that continues to
evolve. And this conversation is immediately legible
from the street, courtesy of Tschabalala Self’s largescale
sculpture, Art Lovers.
DEPICTING AN EMBRACING COUPLE,
installed on the museum’s façade and visible from
the Bowery and Prince Street, the piece brings a
note of intimacy and warmth to the urban exterior.
Acting as both an invitation and a statement, the
work signals the museum’s continued commitment
to artists who engage directly with contemporary
narratives of identity and representation.
104 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
BACK AND BIGGER
ON THE BOWERY
Photo: Jason O’Rear
235 Bowery, NYC
newmuseum.org
ART CULTURE
NEW MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART
JASON O'REAR
INSIDE, VISITORS ARE DRAWN BY EXHIBITS
that feel less like conventional displays and more
like intellectual journeys, with the current offering
spanning more than a century of artistic thought,
placing contemporary works alongside key figures
of the early avant garde. This juxtaposition is
deliberate and reveals a crucial insight: that
today’s most radical artistic expressions are
deeply rooted in the experimental breakthroughs
of twentieth century Europe, from Dada and
Surrealism to Constructivism, Bauhaus design,
post war figuration and utopian architectural
thinking. Figures such as Francis Bacon, Salvador
Dalí and Hannah Höch appear not as distant
historical icons, but as active participants in an
ongoing exploration of the human condition, their
ideas continuing to resonate with striking clarity.
THE MUSEUM'S REOPENING EXHIBITION,
New Humans: Memories of the Future, brings
together more than two hundred artists, writers,
architects, scientists and filmmakers from over
fifty countries. It considers how technological
and social upheavals have shaped shifting ideas
of what it means to be human. Particularly
compelling is the way its curatorial framework links
the 1920s to the present. The first appearance of
the term “robot”, the rise of mechanised labour,
new media and industrialised warfare are set in
relation to artificial intelligence, revealing that
JASON O'REAR
106 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
107
ART CULTURE
NEW MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART
JASON KEEN
JASON O'REAR
what we call contemporary remains inseparable
from earlier avant garde ruptures. This continuity
lends the exhibition both depth and urgency,
positioning it as a meditation on time as much as
on technology.
VISITORS ENCOUNTER TWENTIETH CENTURY
masters such as Alberto Giacometti and Constantin
Brâncuşi along side contemporary voices that
include Wangechi Mutu, Camille Henrot, Hito
Steyerl, Anicka Yi and Tau Lewis. What emerges
is not a conventional art historical survey, but a
series of resonances: distorted bodies, dreamlike
landscapes, machine fantasies and post human
imaginings that suggest how profoundly today’s
experimentation draws upon the radical energy
of the European avant garde. And across the
galleries, one encounters speculative cities, hybrid
beings, mechanical children, embryonic imagery,
medical diagrams, synthetic atmospheresand
alternative ecologies. Anicka Yi’s hovering aerobes
offer an especially elegant vision of life adapted
to uncertain futures, while works engaging with
surgical technologies, prosthetics and scientific
visualisation extend the exhibition’s central concern
with the redefinition of humanity. Hannah Höch’s
collaged bodies, Francis Picabia’s machine imagery,
and Bauhaus formulations of the “New Woman”
become newly legible within present day conversations
around bioengineering, cyborg forms, algorithmic
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
109
JASON O'REAR
imagery and post human life in the age of
artificial intelligence.
SOMEWHAT REMINISCENT OF AN ARTISTIC
testing ground, the New Museum is a space in which
the conditions of contemporary art are actively
constructed. Unlike more traditional establishments,
it has no permanent collection anchoring it to a single
narrative and this absence is part of its strength,
for it allows the museum to remain agile, to support new
commissions, to reconsider the past through the lens
of the present, and to offer visitors an experience that
feels responsive rather than fixed. For culturally curious
travellers, this creates a particular sense of anticipation.
One is not merely visiting a museum, but encountering
a temporary alignment of architecture, curatorial
thinking and artistic production that exists only in this
form, at this moment, shaped as much by its visitors as
by its creators.
IN A CITY DEFINED BY CULTURAL ICONS, THE
New Museum stands apart by resisting permanence
and embracing transformation. Visiting is less about
viewing individual works and more about observing
methodology in motion. Offering an opportunity to
understand how exhibitions can function as research,
how historical references may be reactivated within
contemporary frameworks and how institutional
structures can support experimentation rather
than constrain it, not only is the New Museum
visually striking, but it is intellectually engaging
and profoundly contemporary in the most
compelling sense.
https://newmuseum.org
110 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
FROM LONDON, WHERE FRANCESCO MAZZEI
CHANNELS THE SOUL OF SOUTHERN ITALY
THROUGH CALABRIAN COOKING, GENEROUS
SPIRIT AND STRIKING INTERIORS AT
MEZZOGIORNO, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
VISITS MAHARASHTRA TO EXPLORE AN INDIAN
WINE TRAIL, WHERE A NEW GENERATION
OF PRODUCERS IS SHAPING A DISTINCT
VITICULTURAL IDENTITY, AND TAKES A PEW AT
AN EIGHT SEAT COUNTER IN VIENNA, WHERE
SHIKI OMAKASE DELIVERS AN IMMERSIVE
GASTRONOMIC JOURNEY THROUGH JAPANESE
CULINARY PRECISION
MEZZOGIORNO BY
FRANCESCO MAZZEI
➤ LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM
SHIKI OMAKASE
➤ VIENNA, AUSTRIA
INDIAN WINE TRAIL
➤ MAHARASHTRA, INDIA
Bistecca alla Fiorentina
Mezzogiorno by Francesco Mazzei, London
MEZZOGIORNO BY FRANCESCO MAZZEI
➤ LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM
NEWCOMER
WITHIN CORINTHIA LONDON AT CELEBRATED CALABRIAN
CHEF FRANCESCO MAZZEI’S NEW RESTAURANT, THE SPIRIT OF
SOUTHERN ITALY IS BROUGHT TO LIFE THROUGH GENEROUS
COOKING, WARM HOSPITALITY AND THEATRICAL SURROUNDS
FOR FRANCESCO MAZZEI, FOOD HAS
always been inseparable from family,
memory and the rhythms of Southern
Italy. Born and raised in Calabria, the
chef grew up in a region where cooking
remains deeply connected to the land
and sea, where long lunches regularly
spill into evening conversations, and
where recipes are still passed between
generations with instinctive precision
rather than written instruction. It is
this world which informs Mezzogiorno,
Mazzei’s new restaurant at Corinthia
London, and which now occupies the
former Northall dining room within the
grand Whitehall hotel.
THE TRANSFORMATION OF THE
space feels considerable. Anyone
familiar with the former Northall will
immediately notice how completely the
restaurant has shed its previous identity.
Designed by award winning studio
Afroditi, the dining room now feels
warmer, softer and more theatrical.
The tall classical columns remain, as
do the soaring proportions of the room
itself, but everything else appears to
have recalibrated with a distinctly
Italian sensibility, not to mention a
touch of glamour.
WE ENTER THROUGH AN OPEN
kitchen, where chefs work behind curved
marble counters beneath oversized
copper extractor hoods, rolling pasta by
hand and plating dishes beneath softly
glowing lights. It is an arrival designed
to establish atmosphere immediately,
and it works. Beyond, the dining
room is set beneath scalloped ceilings
washed in amber tones, dramatic
chandeliers suspended above parquet
flooring, and pale blush banquettes
divided by elegant fabric screens.
The palette throughout is warm and
inviting, layered with walnut timber,
woven leather seating, veined marble,
textured plasterwork, and soft terracotta
shades which subtly evoke Southern Italy
without descending into cliché.
DESPITE THE GRANDEUR OF THE
room, nothing about the place feels
stiff. On the contrary, staff move with
confidence and ease and our lunch
service unfolds at a measured pace that
encourages us to settle in and enjoy.
Tables are laid simply with ceramic
crockery finished with floral motifs, while
cloches filled with breads and pastries
rest throughout the dining room like
edible centrepieces awaiting use.
LUNCH BEGINS EXACTLY AS IT
probably should in a restaurant inspired
by Calabria. Warm focaccia topped with
tomato arrives alongside crisp sheets
of pane carasau, slender breadsticks,
folded slices of prosciutto, and an intense
Calabrian chilli spread glowing deep
crimson in a ceramic pot. Olive oil is poured
generously into shallow bowls, and a bottle
Antipasto di Mare
ALL IAMGES: PENSARA
MAZZEI IS NO STRANGER TO
London’s restaurant scene. Over the last
two decades, the chef has steadily built
a reputation for sophisticated Italian
cooking through restaurants including
L’Anima, Sartoria, and Fiume, all
while becoming one of Britain’s most
recognisable Italian culinary figures. Yet
Mezzogiorno feels more personal than
much of what has come before it. Named
after the southern half of Italy itself, the
restaurant is rooted less in refinement
for refinement’s sake and more in
the warmth, generosity and spirited
informality of the chef’s upbringing.
of Ca’ Bolani Sauvignon Blanc from Friuli
soon follows, lively and citrus driven
enough to carry us comfortably through
the earlier courses.
SEVERAL ANTIPASTO DI MARE
arrive together. A vibrant tuna crudo
scattered with bottarga and orange
zest is fresh and bright, balancing
sweetness, acidity and clean marine
flavours with impressive restraint.
Scarlet prawns, served simply in
olive oil, require little embellishment
whatsoever. While a dish featuring
delicate and sweet hand-dived Orkney
scallops is pan-seared to caramelized
perfection, and garnished with a rich
Calabrian 'nduja butter.
Francesco Mazzei
CLAIRE MENARY
THERE IS CONFIDENCE
throughout the cooking because very
little feels overworked. Mazzei clearly
understands when to stop. The dishes
are polished, certainly, but they retain
something rustic and instinctiveness too,
which prevents the meal from drifting
into the style of over styled contemporary
Italian dining that has become increasingly
common in London of late.
THE RESTAURANT’S OPEN KITCHEN
and dedicated pasta counter naturally place
considerable focus on handmade pasta,
and rightly so. A dish of golden hand-made
tortelli filled with burrata and ricotta,
arrives glossed in butter and sage, scattered
with hazelnuts and finished with a dark,
TASTE & SIP
NEWCOMER
Tagliolini all’Astice Blu
PENSARA PENSARA
almost caramelised depth that gives the
plate remarkable balance.
LARGER DISHES CONTINUE THE
Southern Italian narrative while subtly
embracing British produce, something
Mazzei remains committed to throughout
the menu. A beautifully cooked Guernsey
pink bream arrives swimming in a lively
sauce of capers, onions, aromatic datterini
tomatoes and sliced green olives, its flesh
delicate and flaky beneath crisped skin.
Alongside it comes a towering bowl of
moreish crispy courgette sticks, and a huge
singular meatball resting in bright tomato
sauce beneath a snowfall of scamorza cheese,
that speaks directly to the sort of comforting
family cooking the restaurant celebrates.
THE MEAL CONCLUDES WITH THE
restaurant’s already famous tiramisu,
presented tableside in an enormous
ceramic dish dusted thickly with cocoa
powder. Large spoonfuls are served
directly onto waiting plates, revealing
layers of mascarpone, coffee soaked
sponge, and cream beneath the dark
surface. It is unapologetically indulgent,
deliberately oversized, and entirely in
keeping with the spirit of Mezzogiorno.
LONDON HAS NEVER BEEN SHORT
of ambitious Italian restaurants,
particularly at the higher end of the
market, but Mezzogiorno feels distinctive
because it understands something
many others miss. Beyond the polished
interiors and serious cooking, there
is genuine warmth here. The room
is handsome without intimidation,
the service refined without coldness,
and the food rooted in memories and
traditions that feel sincerely lived rather
than manufactured for effect. In a city
increasingly saturated with performative
dining concepts, Francesco Mazzei’s
new restaurant succeeds because it
feels personal, grounded, and
wholeheartedly Italian.
www.corinthia.com/en-gb/london
PENSARA
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
115
SHIKI OMAKASE
➤ VIENNA, AUSTRIA
NEWCOMER
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU EMBARKS UPON AN
INTIMATE OMAKASE MEAL AT A NEW DINING VENUE IN
THE HEART OF THE AUSTRIAN CAPITAL, WHERE JAPANESE
CULINARY PRECISION, HUSHED THEATRICALITY AND
EXCEPTIONAL SUSHI TAKE CENTRE STAGE
HIDDEN DISCREETLY BEHIND AN
elegant Japanese boutique on Vienna’s
Krugerstraße, SHIKI Omakase is the
sort of restaurant one could easily walk
past without realising what lies beyond.
There is no dramatic entrance, no
conspicuous signage drawing attention
to itself, and no attempt to cultivate the
sort of social media frenzy increasingly
associated with high-end omakase
dining outside Japan. Instead, guests
arrive quietly, begin with a glass of
IRINA THALHAMMER
Sake-Steamed Sea Bass
116 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
Ruben Gorcea
IRINA THALHAMMER
seasonality, precision, and the gentle
choreography that defines traditional
omakase dining. “Omakase” translates
loosely as “I leave it up to you”, and from
the moment lunch begins, I am in the
hands of the chefs a metre away.
THE ROOM ITSELF IS RESTRAINED
almost to the point of monasticism. Dark
walls and deep green seating frame the
blond timber counter, above which an
illuminated grid ceiling casts a soft,
even glow across the room. Nothing
distracts from the ritual unfolding
directly ahead. A noren curtain hangs
quietly at the rear, sake bottles line
discreet shelving, and every movement
inside the compact kitchen appears
measured and deliberate. Unlike many
contemporary omakase restaurants that
lean heavily into performative theatrics,
SHIKI Omakase exudes calm confidence
from the get-go.
and easy interaction brings warmth to
what would otherwise feel overly formal.
BEGINNING HIS CULINARY
career at the Grand Hotel Wien before
developing a fascination with Japanese
cuisine at the city’s long-established
Unkai restaurant, Gorcea joined SHIKI
in 2022 and completed formal sushi
master training last year under Nobuyuki
Ikarashi of Sushizen Sapporo. Especially
for someone so young, watching him work
is quietly mesmerising. His movements
are economical and exact, whether slicing
fish, brushing nigiri with soy, shaping
rice, or preparing dishes over binchotan
charcoal. Yet there is no sense of
stiffness about him. He chats comfortably
with me between courses, explaining
ingredients and preparation methods
with enthusiasm, helping establish an
atmosphere that feels convivial rather
than ceremonious.
champagne at a chic counter in the
boutique, and are then ushered into
a serene dining room containing just
eight seats arranged around a pale
wooden counter.
OPENED LATE LAST YEAR BY
celebrated conductor and restaurateur
Joji Hattori as an extension of his
acclaimed Japanese restaurant nearby,
SHIKI Omakase marks a more focused
and exclusive evolution of the brand.
Here, the emphasis is placed squarely
on trust between chef and guest, on
I ARRIVE AT 12.30 AND LUNCH
begins at 1pm, unfolding gradually over
the course of an entire afternoon that
seems to slip by unnoticed. Courses
arrive steadily, each one prepared
directly in front of me with remarkable
concentration and skill, while wine,
then sake, is poured gently into elegant
stemware and conversation rises and
falls naturally across the counter. The
atmosphere remains hushed yet relaxed,
aided considerably by the personable
presence of sous chef and sushi meister
Ruben Gorcea, whose calm demeanour
THE MEAL BEGINS DELICATELY,
with lighter dishes allowing the palate to
settle into the rhythm of the afternoon.
One particularly memorable course
features sea bass steamed gently in sake
until almost silken in texture. The fish
arrives alongside spinach softened in
dashi broth, while a sesame-soy dressing
lends warmth and savoury depth without
overwhelming the natural sweetness
of the sea bass itself. Like much of the
menu, the dish demonstrates impressive
restraint. Nothing feels unnecessarily
embellished or manipulated.
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
117
SOON AFTERWARDS, NIGIRI BEGINS
arriving one piece at a time across the
counter, each carefully shaped moments
before being placed before diners. Among
the standouts is a beautiful redfish nigiri,
lightly torched to introduce the faintest
whisper of smoke while preserving the
clean freshness of the fish beneath.
Finished with finely sliced chives and
brushed with soy, it is deceptively
simple yet executed with tremendous
precision, the temperature and balance
proving faultless.
AS LUNCH PROGRESSES, SAKE
pairings become increasingly important
to the experience. SHIKI reportedly
houses one of Europe’s largest sake
collections, with more than sixty labels
available exclusively by bottle. My sake
journey is curated, expertly paired with
different dishes and served by affable
Georg Loeb, who obviously has a strong
background in luxury hospitality. Delicate
and mineral-driven sakes accompany
the earlier seafood courses beautifully,
while fuller-bodied varieties appear
later alongside richer dishes, each deftly
explained by Loeb, who is also engaging.
And the pacing feels thoughtful, with
neither food nor sake ever competing for
attention.
ONE OF THE AFTERNOON’S MOST
indulgent moments arrives in the form
of Toro Kavira, a luxurious combination
of finely chopped bluefin tuna belly and
Greek caviar seasoned with Okinawan
salt. Prepared as a delicate tartare, the
toro possesses a remarkable buttery
softness, while the caviar contributes
salinity and texture in careful proportion.
A restrained marinade introduces gentle
sweetness and depth without distracting
from the purity of the ingredients
themselves. Rich though it is, the dish
does not feels excessive.
EQUALLY MEMORABLE IS A TORO
nigiri that follows later in the meal.
Gently kissed over binchotan charcoal
moments before serving, the prized
fatty tuna develops the faintest exterior
char while remaining cool and yielding
within. The effect is extraordinary, the
Wagyu Steak
IIMAGES: RINA THALHAMMER
118 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
TASTE & SIP
NEWCOMER
Seared Toro
fish almost dissolving upon contact
with the tongue. Watching Gorcea
prepare it directly opposite only
heightens the anticipation.
SEVERAL COOKED COURSES
punctuate the procession of sushi and
sashimi throughout the afternoon.
Chawanmushi topped with roe arrives
warm and comforting, while grilled
eel introduces smokier, more robust
flavours before the meal gradually builds
towards its richest plate: A5 Wagyu from
Japan’s Miyazaki Prefecture. Possessing
intricate, snowflake-like marbling, the
beef is grilled carefully over binchotan
charcoal until the exterior develops
gentle caramelisation while the interior
remains almost impossibly tender.
Served simply with salt and fresh
wasabi, it requires nothing further.
DESPITE THE VISIBLE PRECISION,
at no point does SHIKI Omakase feel
cold or intimidating. On the contrary,
staff remain attentive yet unobtrusive,
sake appears seamlessly whenever my
glass needs refilling, and the intimate
scale of the room fosters a subtle
camaraderie amongst diners, with
conversation flowing and much laughter,
creating the sense that everyone present
is participating in a shared experience,
rather than merely consuming a meal.
VIENNA MAY NOT BE THE FIRST
city that comes to mind when
considering omakase dining, yet SHIKI
is entirely convincing in both concept
and execution. Crucially, it avoids the
trap of imitation so often found in luxury
Japanese restaurants outside Japan.
There is authenticity here, certainly,
but also restraint, confidence, and an
understanding that true refinement
rarely needs to announce itself loudly.
Osuimono Shrimp Soup
MOST IMPORTANTLY, THE FOOD
is exceptional. From the first delicately
prepared dishes to the pinnacle
of Japanese Wagyu, every course
demonstrates an unwavering commitment
to precision, balance and ingredient
quality. Combined with the intimacy
of the setting and the quietly engaging
presence of Ruben Gorcea behind the
counter, SHIKI Omakase succeeds in
creating something increasingly rare in
contemporary fine dining: an experience
that feels genuinely transporting,
immersive, and entirely
memorable.
www.shiki-omakase.at/en
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
119
MAHARASHTRA
➤ INDIA
WINE CULTURE
a new vintage for india
KEVIN PILLEY VENTURES ALONG INDIA’S EVOLVING WINE TRAIL, WHERE A
ONCE IMPROBABLE INDUSTRY IS GRADUALLY FINDING BOTH CONFIDENCE AND
CHARACTER, AND IS REDEFINING THE COUNTRY’S VITICULTURE LANDSCAPE
SWIRL. SNIFF. SIP.” THE RITUAL
feels reassuringly familiar, even if the
setting does not. Standing on a sunlit
terrace overlooking rows of vines in
Nashik, I raise a glass of Satori red
and watch its garnet hue catch the late
afternoon light. The tannins are gentle,
and the fruit is composed rather than
assertive. It is, quite simply, a competent
wine. This alone marks a quiet shift.
A second glass follows, this time a
Shiraz. “Very good with spicy food,” my
guide Meenal says with a knowing smile.
It is a pairing suggestion that speaks not
only of flavour, but of instinct. Indian
wine is no longer imitating the West. It is
beginning to understand itself.
MY EARLIEST ENCOUNTER WITH
Indian wine is far less assured. Two
decades ago in Goa, a bottle bought
more out of curiosity than conviction,
delivered an experience memorable
chiefly for its severity. A later
attempt aboard storied luxury train,
The Palace on Wheels, did little to
improve matters. At the time, Indian
wine felt like an afterthought and
a novelty, rather than a serious
pursuit. That perception no longer
holds, for across India, a new
generation of producers, sommeliers
and drinkers is reshaping the
conversation. Domestic wines
appear on restaurant lists with
growing confidence. And in cities
such as Mumbai, Bengaluru and
Hyderabad, wine bars and curated
cellars form part of an increasingly
self-assured urban culture.
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
121
TASTE & SIP
WINE CULTURE
Fratelli Wines
BY GLOBAL STANDARDS, INDIAN
wine production remains modest, but
is steadily expanding. India produces
around 30 million litres of wine each year,
the vast majority in Maharashtra, in the
western peninsular of the nation, bordered
by the Arabian Sea. Consumption is still
low per capita, yet it continues to rise,
driven by a young, urban middle class
whose tastes are evolving with curiosity
rather than haste.
THE GEOGRAPHY OF INDIAN
viticulture is broader than one might
expect. Vineyards stretch from the
southern reaches of Tamil Nadu to
parts of Madhya Pradesh, though it
is Nashik that draws most attention.
Around 170 kilometres northeast of
Mumbai, its elevation, diurnal shifts
and basalt-rich soils create conditions
that are unexpectedly well suited to
grape growing.
OFTEN COMPARED TO NAPA VALLEY,
Nashik is changing rapidly. Once known
primarily as a pilgrimage city on the
banks of the Godavari River, it is now
home to some 40 wineries. From small,
considered estates to larger commercial
operations, together they produce around
80% of the nation's wines. Foremost
Sula Vineyards
among them is Sula Vineyards, widely
regarded as the driving force behind
modern Indian winemaking.
FOUNDED IN 1999 BY RAJEEV
Samant after vines were first planted in
1997, the estate is playing a central role
in shaping both Indian wine quality and
its perception. Sula's first commercial
vintage appeared in 2000. Since then,
the vineyard has grown into one of the
country’s most recognisable names.
Set across gently undulating land
near Gangapur Lake, the vineyards
benefit from warm days and noticeably
cooler nights during the growing season.
This balance allows grapes to ripen fully
while retaining freshness. The Dindori
plots, in particular, stand out for their
red, mineral-rich soils, which bring
structure and quiet depth to wines such
as the Reserve Shiraz and Viognier.
Beyond the cellar, Sula invests
heavily in wine tourism. Contemporary
tasting spaces, an open-air
amphitheatre, and the adjoining Soma
Vine Village create an experience that
feels relaxed rather than overly staged.
Visitors are encouraged not simply
to taste, but to look more closely at
the land, the climate and the decision
making behind each bottle.
INDIA’S WINEMAKING HISTORY
stretches back further than is often
assumed. Archaeological evidence points
122 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
Sula Vineyards
Sula Vineyards
its Sauvignon Blanc carries a freshness
that reflects its setting. Tastings take
place on a shaded deck, where the stillness
of the water and the sweep of vines beyond
lend the experience a sense of natural
calm. www.yorkwinery.com
to early forms of fermentation thousands
of years ago, though these bear little
resemblance to modern wine. During
the Mughal period, attitudes to alcohol
shifted with the court, while Portuguese
and later British influence introduced
more recognisable practices of cultivation
and production. The modern industry,
however, is very much a late twentiethcentury
development.
International consultants from
France, Italy and California helped
refine techniques and consistency. But it
was the willingness of Indian producers
to adapt rather than imitate that proved
to be most important. At Sula, this
approach is clear. Wines such as its
Dindori Reserve Viognier show a balance
of ripe fruit and gentle minerality, while
the light, fresh and fruity character of
its cold-fermented Chenin Blanc, finished
in a semi-dry style, makes it an excellent
aperitif. These are wines made not for
comparison, but for context, and designed
to sit comfortably alongside Indian food,
where spice and texture demand nuance.
https://sulavineyards.com
BEYOND NASHIK, OTHER
producers are shaping the landscape in
quieter ways. York Winery, established
in 2006, sits on a hillside overlooking the
Gangapur Dam. Its smaller scale allows
for a more attentive approach in both
vineyard and cellar. York's Shiraz is
structured without excess weight, while
FURTHER SOUTH, FRATELLI WINES
reflects a different ambition. Located near
Akluj in Maharashtra’s Solapur district,
the estate emerges from a collaboration
between Indian and Italian partners,
with technical guidance drawn from
Tuscany. The vineyards sit at a slightly
higher elevation, where heat requires
careful management through irrigation
and canopy work. The resulting
wines, particularly Sette – a blend of
Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon –
aim for a balance between structure and
ripeness. The estate itself is expansive,
with modern production facilities, slick
architecture, on-site accommodation
and curated tastings that reflect a more
deliberate, precision-led approach to
winemaking. https://fratelliwines.in
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
123
TASTE & SIP
WINE CULTURE
BEYOND THE VINEYARDS, WINE
tourism is beginning to establish itself
in India. Vineyard stays, tastings and
seasonal festivals attract visitors from
across India and beyond. At Sula’s
annual fest, music, food and wine come
together in a way that feels distinctly
local. It is not an attempt to replicate
Europe, but something more relaxed,
more open, and perhaps more in tune
with its surroundings.
CHALLENGES REMAIN, OF COURSE.
Climate variability, taxation and
distribution continue to shape the pace
of development. Wine must also compete
with long-established preferences for
spirits such as whisky, which still
dominate the market. Even so, there
is a sense of momentum. Indian wines
are appearing more frequently in
international competitions, gaining
recognition not as curiosities, but as
serious entries. Exports remain limited,
yet they are growing, with a modest but
meaningful presence in markets such as
the UK.
BACK ON A TERRACE IN NASHIK,
another glass is poured as the light
softens and the vines fall into shadow.
There is, in that moment, a sense not of
novelty, but of quiet assurance. Indian
wine may have arrived later than many
expected, but it has arrived with a sense
of purpose and, perhaps most
importantly, with a growing
sense of its own identity.
X
THE GLOBAL COLLECTIVE UNVEILS
ITS FIRST EXPRESSION IN INDIA
A 109-suite address arrives in Mumbai, the group’s newest
culture-led destination.
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Fi’lia | Black Lacquer | The Third Room | Blu Xone
Authentic Italian Restaurant | Japanese Listening Room | Business Lounge | Transformative Wellness
SUMMER
2026 TRAVEL
ESSENTIALS
WITH SEASONED GLOBETROTTERS
MOVING EVER MORE FREQUENTLY
AND WITH GREATER DISCERNMENT,
SELECTING THE RIGHT TRIP
ESSENTIALS IS INCREASINGLY
ABOUT QUALITY, LONGEVITY AND
FUNCTIONALITY. FORTUNATELY,
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER HAS
DONE THE HARD WORK FOR YOU!
FROM BEAUTIFULLY MADE LUGGAGE
AND ELEVATED IN-FLIGHT COMFORT
TO THOUGHTFUL GROOMING,
INTELLIGENT ORGANISATION AND
DISCREETLY ADVANCED TECH,
THIS CURATED SELECTION BRINGS
TOGETHER KEY PIECES BUILT TO
LAST AND DESIGNED TO PERFORM
126 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
SHOPPING
BENNETT WINCH WEEKENDER
For shorter trips, a soft sided holdall often feels more intuitive than a wheeled
case, especially when movement needs to be quick and unencumbered.
Bennett Winch has earned a loyal following for beautifully made travel pieces
produced in England with durability at their core. Its weekender holdall is
crafted from weatherproof canvas with leather trim, giving it both resilience
and polish. The proportions are carefully judged, so it slips easily into an
overhead locker while still holding everything required for a night or two
away. It suits the traveller who packs with discipline and dislikes fuss. Quietly
luxurious rather than ostentatious, it is a bag that reflects experience, good
judgment, and a preference for things that improve with regular use.
£975 www.bennettwinch.com
WOOLNUT
LEATHER TECH
ORGANISER
The small pieces of technology that
accompany modern travel can easily become
the untidiest part of a well packed bag. Woolnut
has built its reputation on restrained leather
goods that bring order to modern life, and its
leather tech organiser answers this need with
simple clarity. Crafted from premium full-grain
leather from Scandinavia, it opens to reveal a
carefully arranged interior for cables, chargers
and smaller accessories, keeping everything
in place without wasting space. Its compact
format means it slips neatly into a briefcase,
tote or carry-on, ready to be retrieved at a
moment’s notice. For travellers who value
control and dislike rummaging at security or inflight,
it is an elegant corrective to clutter and a
reminder that efficiency can still look refined.
£110 www.woolnut.com
FPM MILANO BANK
SPINNER CARRY-ON
A well chosen cabin case should convey intention
rather than familiarity, offering substance without
relying on recognisable signatures. FPM Milano, the
Italian luggage house founded by industrial designer
Marc Sadler, approaches travel with a distinctly
architectural eye, drawing on the form of vintage
trunks while refining them for contemporary use.
This 68 centimetre leather-trimmed Bank Spinner
in rich chocolate brown is hand-assembled in Italy
from durable aluminium, its structured shell defined
by fine ribbing and precise riveted edges. Smooth
leather handles and trim introduce a warmer, more
tactile contrast, softening the metal’s rigidity and
ageing beautifully with use. Movement is smooth
and controlled, supported by dual wheels and a
telescopic handle designed for ease rather than
show. Inside, a fully lined and padded interior keeps
belongings secure in transit. For the seasoned
traveller, it offers a considered alternative to more
predictable Rimowa cases, with a stronger sense of
individuality and design intent.
£1,350 www.mrporter.com
SKROSS PRO WORLD ADAPTER
Global travel depends on seamless charging, yet few objects
are as irritating as a badly designed adapter. SKROSS has
built a strong reputation in this field, producing reliable travel
power solutions that are compact, safe and straightforward
to use. Made in Switzerland, its Pro World Adapter is designed
to accommodate multiple plug types, making it a useful
companion across complex itineraries that span several
countries. And integrated USB ports reduce the number of
chargers that need packing, which in turn helps simplify hand
luggage. It is definitely not a glamorous object, but it is a
necessary one, and necessity handled well has its own appeal.
£49.99 www.skross.com
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
127
SHOPPING
BANG AND OLUFSEN
BEOPLAY H95 HEADPHONES
Few luxuries in transit matter more than the ability to create a private
world inside a crowded cabin. Bang and Olufsen has long balanced
technical excellence with refined design and its headphones exemplify
that combination. Active noise cancellation (ANC) softens the
surrounding din, whether that means an aircraft cabin, a busy lounge or
a delayed departure gate. These Beoplay H95 headphone blend ultradetailed
sound with superb design to give your music the performance
it deserves. And when things get busy, it only takes a second to block
out the noise, with five levels of cancellation to handle everything from
the hum of a plane to the commotion of an airport. And one charge
provides 38 hours of non-stop use with ANC switched-on, which is long
enough for a trip from Paris to Perth and back again!
£879 www.bang-olufsen.com/en/gb
MULBERRY DOUBLE
ZIP WASH CASE
However glamorous the destination, daily routine still matters,
and a well-made washbag to contain your toiletries preserves
a sense of continuity. Mulberry, with its long association with
British leather craftsmanship, produces a number that feel both
sturdy and refined. Made from a soft heavy bovine leather with a
beautifully soft and supple hand feel, this double zip wash case
was crafted for functionality and designed for style. The double
zips ensure that items are easily accessible from the spacious
internal compartment. The handle makes carrying simple and
convenient. And the leathere will gradually become even softer
with use, adding to the beauty of this travel essential.
£325 www.mulberry.com TRAVALO WALTZ
ATOMISER
A quick spritz of one's fragrance on a plane or
after arriving in a destination, can help restore a
sense of self after hours or travelling. But carrying
a full bottle is rarely practical. Travalo’s refillable
Waltz leather atomiser solves this problem neatly,
allowing perfume to travel in a compact, secure
format that fits easily into a pocket, clutch or wash
case. The brand’s appeal lies in making something
genuinely useful feel streamlined and considered,
rather than purely functional. Thanks to an
innovative and patented system, filling without
spilling is quick. And the glass-free atomiser is
leak-proof, which is essential when fragrance sits
alongside clothing and electronics.
£16.88 www.amazon.co.uk
SAINT LAURENT
PASSPORT HOLDER
A passport is handled repeatedly during any journey, so the object
that protects it ought to feel considered. Looking and feeling smart
without trying too hard, Saint Laurent brings its familiar Parisian
restraint to this smooth leather Tiny Cassandre passport holder,
which also features also card slots, Sleek and pared back, it allows
the high quality of the leather and the proportions to do the work.
And slim enough to slip into a jacket pocket, it protects the most
important of travel documents while lending a subtle note of style
to every stage of departure and arrival. For the cultivated traveller,
it turns a bureaucratic essential into something quietly elegant,
which is often where real luxury begins.
£355 www.mytheresa.com/gb/en
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ETTINGER CAPRA
LUGGAGE TAG
The most useful travel details are often the
least conspicuous. Ettinger, a British leather
goods house with a Royal Warrant, understands
this instinctively. Its Capra luggage tag is
made from durable goat leather, which resists
both scratches and water. The design is
uncomplicated, which is precisely its appeal,
allowing craftsmanship rather than decoration
to take the lead. And the tag can be hand
personalised with your initials, by a specialist
craftsperson in Ettinger's factory.
£60 www.ettingerlondon.com
HORIZN STUDIOS
PACKING CUBES
Packing well is less about squeezing in more and more
about ensuring that everything remains accessible once
the journey begins. Horizn Studios, the Berlin based brand
known for contemporary travel solutions, approaches this
issue with a set of four packing cubes that bring a degree
of structure to a suitcase. Lightweight, well proportioned
and fitted with mesh panels for visibility, they help separate
garments without adding needless bulk, and are especially
useful on multi-stop itineraries, where a bag can quickly
descend into disorder. Rather than turning packing into a
rigid ritual, they simply make it calmer and more efficient.
£80 www.horizn-studios.co.uk
BRITISH BOXERS
ALPACA SOCKS
Comfort in transit is often determined by the things
nobody else sees, and quality socks are a good example
of how small details can significantly improve your in-flight
experience. Soft, breathable and insulating without bulk,
they help regulate temperature on planes and long car
transfers alike. Fitted but not constricting (which matters
when one is sitting for hours at a stretch), these British
Boxers socks are crafted using traditional methods honed
over 100 years, and knitted with the softest alpaca wool.
British made with 10% nylon for a little added strength.
Available for him and her.
£26 www.british-boxers.com
130 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
SHOPPING
CLIMA BRISHED
STEEL BOTTLE
Hydration is one of the simplest travel
principles and one of the easiest to neglect.
24Bottles has built its identity around
lightweight, well designed bottles that
encourage better habits without looking
utilitarian, and the Clima Bottle is among
its most useful offerings. Insulated to keep
drinks at temperature for extended periods, it
supports everything from cold water on a hot
city walk to hot tea on an early train. The design
is streamlined and easy to carry, which matters
far more than decorative fuss. For travellers
trying to reduce disposable waste while staying
properly hydrated, it is a smart and attractive
alternative to airport purchases.
£55 www.24bottles.com
STACKERS MEDIUM
JEWELLERY CASE
Travelling with jewellery can be surprisingly stressful,
particularly when the pieces in question are valuable, delicate,
or simply sentimental. Stackers has become well known for
sensible well-designed storage, and its travel jewellery cases
are one of those objects that solves a specific problem with real
assurance. Velvet lined, this medium sized case comes in a wide
range of colours; is compact enough to tuck easily into hand
luggage; contains neatly planned compartments that prevent
tangling; and is especially useful for travellers carrying a few
cherished items rather than a full set of jewels. The divider is
also removable to accommodate larger statement earrings!
£28 www.stackers.com
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LINEN CUPBOARD
TRAVEL PILLOW
A luxurious travel pillow can undoubtedly help you
feel at home wherever you are in the world. For
three decades, Yorkshire-based Linen Cupboard
has been synonymous with luxury bedding and
their new-style travel pillow has been designed
for superior comfort wherever your journey takes
you, whether you are on a plane, train or in a hotel.
Big enough to rest your head on, yet small enough
to pack, it is generously filled for First Class
comfort, and comes with a zipped white cotton
percale pillowcase, to keep the pillow fresh and
clean on-the-go.
£44 www.linencupboard.co.uk
JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN
CASHMERE STOLE
Aircraft cabins, cool evenings and over enthusiastic hotel air
conditioning all point to the same conclusion: a truly useful
travel wardrobe needs a versatile layer. Johnstons of Elgin,
the Scottish mill whose heritage stretches back centuries,
produces a range of versatile cashmere stoles that are
lightweight enough to fold into hand luggage yet warm enough
to function as a wrap or impromptu blanket, moving gracefully
between practical need and sartorial polish. This luxurious
charcoal grey stole is crafted in Scotland from 100% cashmere
and is generously sized.
£595 www.johnstonsofelgin.com
132 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
SHOPPING
LA M ER LIP BALM
Dry lips can quickly become one of the most
irritating side effects of air travel, particularly
on longer flights where cabin conditions are
relentless. La Mer’s lip balm offers a compact
but effective answer, bringing the brand’s
reputation for rich, restorative care to one of
the smallest yet most necessary parts of a
travel routine. Smooth in texture and deeply
comforting, it forms a protective barrier
against dryness while remaining easy to
reapply throughout a journey.
£65 www.cremedelamer.co.uk
DROWSY SILK SLEEP MASK
Long haul travel has a way of disrupting even the best intentions,
which is why proper rest should never be left to chance. Drowsy has
developed a range of sleep masks that takes this seriously, combining
softness, coverage and comfort in a way that feels genuinely useful
rather than merely attractive. Made from silk and generously padded,
they block light effectively while sitting gently across the face, avoiding
the pressure that lesser masks can cause around the eyes, and are
invaluable on overnight flights, where even a small improvement in
sleep can alter the first day of arrival.
£69 www.drowsysleepco.com
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AESOP RESURRECTION
AROMATIQUE HAND BALM
Hands tend to bear the brunt of travel, from repeated washing at
airports to dry cabin air and constant shifts in temperature. Known for
its thoughtful formulations and refined botanical sensibility, Aesop’s
balms particularly, have become a modern skincare classic, not
least because they treat hands swiftly and effectively. This hydrating
Resurrection Aromatique Hand Balm, with an evocative citrus aroma,
was the brand's first-ever skin product and is now a travel staple.
£27 www.aesop.co.uk
AUGUSTINUS BADER
RICH CREAM
TRAVEL KIT
Travel places real strain on the skin, particularly
in aircraft cabins where dryness is constant and
often relentless. Augustinus Bader, the science led
skincare brand admired for its high-performance
formulations, addresses this issue with a compact
routine built around hydration and repair. Its Rich
Cream Travel Kit allows travellers to maintain
a coherent regimen without carrying full sized
products, which makes it particularly useful for
hand luggage only trips. A complete on-the-glow
system, the set features four of the brand’s bestknown
treatments: gentle Cream Cleansing Gel;
breakthrough 3-in-1 Essence; nourishing Face Oil,
and iconic Rich Cream.
£175 www.augustinusbader.com
134 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
SHOPPING
SUSANNE KAUFMANN
MULTI-PROTECTION
MIST
Hydration on the move should be approached from more
than one angle, and a well formulated facial mist can make
a noticeable difference during a long day of travel. Susanne
Kaufmann’s Multi-Protection Mist is particularly well judged,
offering light hydration in a format that is easy to use
in flight, at the airport or on arrival. Newly reformulated
with the addition of intelligent new ingredients from the
Alpine region, the mist's formula now includes butterfly
bush flower extract, which is proven to protect the skin
from damage caused by UV radiation, dryness, heat or
cold. Alongside this is silk protein, to prevent the skin from
drying out and ensuring it’s left nourished and smooth.
And doubling down on hydration is a dose of ectoin, which
increases the skin’s capacity to store moisture in-flight
£55 www.cultbeauty.co.uk
SHISEIDO SUN
PROTECTOR CLEAR
STICK SPF 50+
Sun protection remains important even when travel
feels urban rather than tropical, and the best formulas
are those that can be reapplied easily while on-thego.
Shiseido has long been admired for elegant,
high-performance skincare, and this solid clear stick
makes sun protection hyper convenient, gliding on
without mess. It can be used quickly during shopping
expeditions, between museum visits or during long
afternoons outdoors. For travellers moving between
cities and climates, it removes the usual excuses
around skin protection and brings consistency in a
discreet, portable format.
£33 www.shiseido.co.uk
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
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MOLESKINE SMART WRITING SET
For travellers who still prefer the clarity of writing by hand, but no longer wish to
keep their thoughts confined to paper, Moleskine Smart is an elegant option. Long
associated with notebooks carried by writers, artists and architects, the Italian
stationery brand has reimagined the traditional travel journal for a more digitally
connected age. Comprising a smart notebook and discreetly engineered pen, the
system instantly transfers handwritten notes and sketches to a smartphone or
tablet in real time, preserving the tactile pleasure of writing, while removing the
anxiety of losing important details on the road. Particularly useful for itineraries,
observations, interview notes or fleeting impressions gathered in transit, it feels less
like a gadget and more like a natural evolution of the notebook itself.
£229 www.moleskine.com/en-gb
APPLE AIRTAG
Modern travel can be unexpectedly
chaotic, which is why reassurance has
become an essential form of luxury in its
own right. Its appeal lying in how quietly
it does its job, Apple’s AirTag provides
travellers with a simple way to keep
tabs on luggageSmall enough to remain
unobtrusive, it can be slipped into a
suitcase or attached to a bag without
adding bulk. Once in place and via Apple's
Find My app, it provides location updates
that help remove much of the uncertainty
in-between flights when transferring from
plane to plane.
£29 for one or £99 for four
www.apple.com/uk/shop
136 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
SHOPPING
NIMBLE FOLD 3-IN-1
WIRELESS CHARGER
Modern travel increasingly means managing several
devices at once, which can turn a bedside table or
airport lounge seat into a tangle of cables surprisingly
quickly. Nimble’s foldable wireless charger offers a
calmer solution, allowing an iPhone, Apple Watch and
AirPods to charge together in one sleek piece. Most
importantly, it folds flat to travel easily, and the lowprofile
hinge adjusts to charge devices upright or in
nightstand mode.
£139.95 www.apple.com/uk/shop
WOLF TRIPLE WATCH ROLL
For travellers who alternate between watches according to destination, dress
or daytime and evening engagements, proper protection matters. Wolf, the
heritage accessories house founded in the 19th century, has long specialised
in storage that feels as carefully considered as the pieces it holds. This British
Racing Triple Watch Roll provides a secure and handsome way to carry three
timepieces, with a supple exterior and a padded interior that also features a
secret jewellery capsule.
£259 www.wolf1834.com/uk
ANKER MAGGO POWER BANK
Modern travel increasingly depends on keeping a phone alive. Boarding
passes, hotel reservations, maps, translation apps and restaurant
recommendations now sit inside a single device, which makes a dependable
power bank less of an accessory and more of a necessity. Anker has become
one of the most trusted names in portable charging by focusing on reliability
rather than gimmickry, and its MagGo Ultra Slim Power Bank reflects that
philosophy particularly well. Slim, compact and powerful, with the ability
to charge an iPhone 17 Pro to 25% in less than 20 minutes, it attaches
magnetically to the phone, removing the nuisance of tangled charging cables
while moving through airports or cities.
£69 www.anker.com/uk
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A
LITTLE BLACK BOOK
WEB DIRECTORY FOR ISSUE 54
OF THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
A
ARKEN MUSEUM
➤ www.aman.com
AMOH, RHODES
➤ https://the-luxury-collection.marriott.com
B
BOURBAKI PANORAMA, LUCERNE
➤ www.bourbakipanorama.ch/en
BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT
➤ https://burgenstockresort.com/en
CCAROLINE FREY
➤ https://carolinefrey.ch
CASA J.K. PLACE ROMA
➤ www.jkplaces.com
CASTLE ELVIRA
➤ https://castleelvira.com
CHÂTEAU GÜTSCH
➤ www.chateau-guetsch.ch/en
DDANCING HOUSE, PRAGUE
➤ www.dancinghouse.cz/en
DOX CENTRE FOR CONTEMPORARY ART
➤ www.dox.cz
EESKA, PRAGUE
➤ https://eska.ambi.cz/en
FFIELD, PRAGUE
➤ www.fieldrestaurant.cz/en
FRATELLI WINES
➤ https://fratelliwines.in
GGLASGOW CATHEDRAL
➤ https://glasgowcathedral.org
GLASGOW NECROPOLIS
➤ www.glasgownecropolis.org
HHARVEY B-BROWN
➤ https://harveybbrown.com
JJESUIT CHURCH, LUCERNE
➤ www.jesuitenkirche-luzern.ch
KKKL LUZERN
➤ www.kkl-luzern.ch/en
KUCHYŇ, PRAGUE
➤ https://kuchyn.ambi.cz/en
LLION MONUMENT, LUCERNE
➤ www.loewendenkmal-luzern.ch/en
LUCERNE ART MUSEUM
➤ www.kunstmuseumluzern.ch/en
LUCERNE MUSEUM
➤ www.museumluzern.ch
LUCERNE TOURISM
➤ www.luzern.com/en
LUCIDE, LUCERNE
➤ www.lucide-luzern.ch/en
MMANDARIN ORIENTAL PRAGUE
➤ www.mandarinoriental.com/en/prague
MAX CHOCOLATIER
➤ www.maxchocolatier.com/en
MBAMBA
➤ https://naturalselection.travel
MEZZOGIORNO BY FRANCESCO MAZZEI
➤ www.corinthia.com/en-gb/london
MOUNT PILATUS, LUCERNE
➤ www.pilatus.ch
MUSEGG WALL, LUCERNE
➤ www.museggmauer.ch
NNEW MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART
➤ www.newmuseum.org
NOORMAHAL
➤ https://autograph-hotels.marriott.com
PPRAGUE CASTLE
➤ www.hrad.cz/en
PRAGUE TOURISM
➤ https://prague.eu/en
RREGENT HONG KONG
➤ https://hongkong.regenthotels.com
ROSENGART COLLECTION
➤ www.rosengart.ch/en
SSCALA RESTAURANT, LUCERNE
➤ www.hotel-montana.ch
SHIKI OMAKASE
➤ https://shiki-omakase.at/en
SULA VINEYARDS
➤ https://sulavineyards.com
SWISS MUSEUM OF TRANSPORT
➤ www.verkehrshaus.ch/en
TTHE BRISTOL BELGRADE
➤ www.thebristolbelgrade.com
THE LAKE COMO EDITION
➤ www.editionhotels.com
THE POT STILL, GLASGOW
➤ https://thepotstill.co.uk
THE ST. REGIS BUDAPEST
➤ www.stregisbudapest.com
THE SUNNY HOTEL
➤ www.thesunnyhotel.com
VVAREL SINGAPORE
➤ https://tribute-portfolio.marriott.com
VERDALA WELLNESS HOTEL
➤ https://axhotelsmalta.com
VISIT GLASGOW
➤ www.visitglasgow.com
WW SARDINIA – POLTU QUATU
➤ https://w-hotels.marriott.com
YYORK WINERY
➤ www.yorkwinery.com
ZŽIŽKOV TELEVISION TOWER
➤ https://towerpark.cz
WEB DIRECTORY
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER 139
TRAVEL TIPS AT THE TOP
harvey b-brown
WITH A CAREER SPANNING FILM, FASHION, ART AND
VISUAL STORYTELLING, AWARD-WINNING FILMMAKER
HARVEY B-BROWN OFTEN TRAVELS IN SEARCH OF
BEAUTY, CULTURE AND INSPIRATION. WE ASK THE LONDON
BASED CREATIVE TWELVE QUESTIONS ABOUT PACKING
WELL, FLYING IN COMFORT, AND THE DESTINATIONS THAT
CONTINUE TO FUEL HIS IMAGINATION
Do you prepare differently for work travel
than personal escapes?
There is a maxim. If you love what you do for
a living then you never have to work a day in
your life. Luckily, this is true for me, so there
is no difference.
What’s your advice for packing elegantly
without taking too much?
I challenge myself to do “the perfect pack”, i.e. to
wear everything that I take with me. I tend to
wear coordinating outfits from Orlebar Brown -
great easy-to-wear pieces that mix and match.
Do you travel with structured
luggage or something softer?
A structured bag for the hold
(more secure) and a big soft bag
for the plane. I have a
vintage Prada nylon
weekend bag which
holds a lot of stuff.
What never leaves
your carry-on,
whether for work or
comfort?
My Apple laptop and a charger and my
treasured silk nylon Fornasetti eye mask. It
blocks out all the light when I need to nap. I
also tend to carry around an old-fashioned
leather-bound notebook and pen.
Have airport lounges become part
of your routine?
Yes. I love to arrive on the early side for a
flight and relax in the lounge. Heathrow
Terminal 5's BA lounges feel like a home away
from home.
What still makes
travelling feel
glamorous to you?
On the plane you are
obliged to turn off
internet. No emails,
no messages, no social
media…it’s utter
luxury. I also take
Zagara orange-scented
Ortigia products with
me whenever I travel. The fragrance sets a
tone of quiet calm and smells like home.
Is there a garment that you never
fly without on a plane?
I have a small range of my Adored & Adorned
paintings printed onto large cashmere wraps.
Jaipur
They are extremely lightweight, extra warm
and turn any look into a glamorous outfit. I
like to pack a few.
Which city has the strongest instinct
for visual drama?
Too hard to choose just one. It’s a draw
between Rome and Mumbai for me.
Mumbai
Is there a hotel anywhere that
completely understands atmosphere?
I tend to like small luxury boutique
hotels that are glam with a relaxed
atmosphere, and provide an effortless
five-star experience. I like smaller
Soho House Hotels, not least because
it's nice to round off the night in a latenight
bar.
Where do you find the most
inspiration while abroad?
Everywhere! The architecture, the art,
the food, the landscape, the culture. It is
inspiration to all five senses.
What’s your smartest trick for
surviving a delayed long-haul flight
in style?
I tend to wear slip-on shoes and soft
unstructured clothes. No belts, no
jewellery. It makes getting through
security much quicker and sitting
in your seat more comfortable. I also
like soft, comfy knitwear in great
colours and have a few From Future
pieces I love.
Do you unpack completely in
hotels, or live straight from
your suitcase?
Absolutely. I do a full unpack, clothes
and toiletries. I try and make myself
at home. I have a number of matching
cabana shirts and shorts combos
from Tombola and they make my
temporary wardrobe look
extremely coordinated.
140 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026
Regenerative Luxury
ĐẮK LẮK, VIETNAM
73 villas . 3 restaurants . 3 bars
900m of sandy beach . wellbeing & fitness areas
watersports & recreational center . boutique
meeting rooms . kids club . private residences
zannierhotels.com/baisanho ∙ reservations.baisanho@zannier.com ∙
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