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(54) The Cultured Traveller, June-August 2026, Issue 54

Travelling this summer undoubtedly feels different to how it did last year. Routes have shifted, timetables have changed, some established destinations are currently out of bounds, and flying in the coming months may demand greater patience and flexibility. Yet perhaps this uncertainty is not entirely unwelcome, and offers something valuable in return, encouraging us to look beyond the obvious, reconsider places once overlooked, and pursue journeys with greater curiosity and imagination. Indeed, many of today’s most rewarding experiences are found not in destinations dominating social media feeds, but in cities, regions and cultural institutions quietly evolving with confidence and authenticity. Increasingly, seasoned travellers are seeking substance over spectacle, depth over immediacy, and encounters fashioned less by trends than by character. This issue of The Cultured Traveller embraces precisely this spirit of discovery. On our cover, LUCERNE is far more than a picturesque Swiss lakeside city. Framed by mountains and shaped by centuries of history, Demelza Oxley discovers one of Central Europe’s most graceful urban destinations, where medieval streets, grand architecture and lakefront serenity combine with unmistakable Swiss assurance. Across the Pond, Monika Tramś visits Manhattan’s expanded NEW MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, where architecture, identity and artistic experimentation intersect within one of New York’s most forward-thinking cultural institutions. Meanwhile in Scotland, Niall Palmer explores GLASGOW, a city whose Victorian grandeur, influential music scene and flourishing creative energy establishes it amongst Britain’s most compelling metropolitan escapes. Elsewhere, Kevin Pilley ventures through Maharashtra, where India’s evolving wine industry is gradually establishing sophistication and individuality through vineyards and producers challenging long-held assumptions surrounding viticulture on the subcontinent. And Nicholas Chrisostomou takes a pew at SHIKI OMAKASE's eight-seat counter, where Japanese precision, hushed theatricality and exceptional sushi come together in one of the Austrian capital’s most memorable dining experiences.

Travelling this summer undoubtedly feels different to how it did last year. Routes have shifted, timetables have changed, some established destinations are currently out of bounds, and flying in the coming months may demand greater patience and flexibility. Yet perhaps this uncertainty is not entirely unwelcome, and offers something valuable in return, encouraging us to look beyond the obvious, reconsider places once overlooked, and pursue journeys with greater curiosity and imagination.

Indeed, many of today’s most rewarding experiences are found not in destinations dominating social media feeds, but in cities, regions and cultural institutions quietly evolving with confidence and authenticity. Increasingly, seasoned travellers are seeking substance over spectacle, depth over immediacy, and encounters fashioned less by trends than by character.

This issue of The Cultured Traveller embraces precisely this spirit of discovery. On our cover, LUCERNE is far more than a picturesque Swiss lakeside city. Framed by mountains and shaped by centuries of history, Demelza Oxley discovers one of Central Europe’s most graceful urban destinations, where medieval streets, grand architecture and lakefront serenity combine with unmistakable Swiss assurance.

Across the Pond, Monika Tramś visits Manhattan’s expanded NEW MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, where architecture, identity and artistic experimentation intersect within one of New York’s most forward-thinking cultural institutions. Meanwhile in Scotland, Niall Palmer explores GLASGOW, a city whose Victorian grandeur, influential music scene and flourishing creative energy establishes it amongst Britain’s most compelling metropolitan escapes.

Elsewhere, Kevin Pilley ventures through Maharashtra, where India’s evolving wine industry is gradually establishing sophistication and individuality through vineyards and producers challenging long-held assumptions surrounding viticulture on the subcontinent. And Nicholas Chrisostomou takes a pew at SHIKI OMAKASE's eight-seat counter, where Japanese precision, hushed theatricality and exceptional sushi come together in one of the Austrian capital’s most memorable dining experiences.

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➤ ISSUE 54

JUNE - AUGUST 2026

UK £10 EU €10

Lucerne

SWITZERLAND‘S MOST ATMOSPHERIC CITY

CZECHIA’S CITY OF A HUNDRED SPIRES

GLASGOW: SCOTLAND’S CULTURAL POWERHOUSE

NEW YORK’S NEW MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART ➤ CASTLE ELVIRA


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ISSUE 54 ➤ JUNE – AUGUST 2026

highlights

48 SWITZERLAND'S MOST ATMOSPHERIC CITY

Surrounded by soaring Alpine peaks and anchored by one of Switzerland’s most beautiful lakes, LUCERNE

possesses a rare sense of composure and balance. From medieval towers and frescoed façades to cutting edge

cultural spaces and mountain railways climbing dramatically above the clouds, Demelza Oxley discovers a city

where history, craftsmanship, nature and contemporary creativity exist in effortless harmony.

21 A REGAL LIFE OBSERVED THROUGH CLOTHING

At Buckingham Palace’s King’s Gallery, a major new exhibition charts the remarkable life of QUEEN

ELIZABETH II through more than 300 garments, accessories and personal items, moving from childhood

and post war couture, to the ensembles that became synonymous with her reign.

86 SCOTLAND’S CULTURAL POWERHOUSE

Shaped by centuries of industry, reinvention and creativity, GLASGOW today stands as one of Britain’s most

compelling urban destinations. Through grand Victorian architecture, contemporary art, music, design

and atmospheric neighbourhoods, Niall Palmer explores a Scottish city whose warmth, cultural energy and

unmistakable identity leave a lasting impression.

116 OMAKASE DINING IN THE AUSTRIAN CAPITAL

Hidden discreetly behind a boutique in central Vienna, SHIKI OMAKASE offers a refined and immersive take

on traditional Japanese dining. From meticulously prepared nigiri and exceptional sake pairings to the calm

precision of the chefs working just metres away, Nicholas Chrisostomou experiences an omakase meal where

restraint, craftsmanship and atmosphere are in perfect balance.

46 WIN A FOUR NIGHT STAY IN HONG KONG

Recently reimagined by celebrated designer Chi Wing Lo, REGENT HONG KONG combines cinematic

harbour views with understated elegance and deeply personalised hospitality. The lucky winner of issue 54’s

prize draw will enjoy four nights in a luxurious Victoria Harbour view room complete with daily breakfasts

and access to the hotel’s wellness facilities and pool terrace.


Just outside Lucerne, the Mount Pilatus range consists of

several peaks, the highest being Tomlishorn at 2,128 metres


21

67

116

46

25

86

CONTENTS

10 CONTRIBUTORS

12 EDITOR’S LETTER

14 NEWSFLASH

From sacred rituals and centuries

old traditions to world class art

exhibitions and high-octane festivals,

this summer is a veritable celebration

of culture in all its forms. Across

continents, cities and landscapes

come alive with sound, colour and

storytelling, as we round up the most

compelling events of the months

ahead, alongside a curated selection

of standout cultural highlights.

30 REST YOUR HEAD

From the design led energy of THE

LAKE COMO EDITION and Adriatic

grandeur of AMAN SVETI STEFAN,

to the Aegean stillness of AMOH

on Rhodes and untamed wilderness

surrounding MBAMBA in Botswana,

The Cultured Traveller visits twelve

new hotels where destination, character

and a strong sense of place define

every stay.

67 SUITE ENVY

Just outside Lecce, Nicholas

Chrisostomou checks into The Queen

Suite at CASTLE ELVIRA, where

restored historic detailing, collected

art, and cinematic Italian glamour

come together in theatrical harmony.

74 CITY FOCUS

Few European capitals present such

an intact and coherent architectural

narrative as PRAGUE, where Gothic,

Renaissance and Baroque grandeur

coexist with contemporary art,

evolving gastronomy and a quietly

modernising cultural pulse.

8 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


35 74

101 ART CULTURE

At the NEW MUSEUM OF

CONTEMPORARY ART in Manhattan,

a major expansion and a thoughtprovoking

reopening exhibition

reframe the relationship between art,

architecture and human identity, as

Monika Tramś explores an institution

defined by evolution.

112 TASTE & SIP NEWCOMER

Within Corinthia London at celebrated

Calabrian chef Francesco Mazzei’s

new restaurant, MEZZOGIORNO, the

spirit of Southern Italy is brought to

life through generous cooking, warm

hospitality, and theatrical surrounds.

120 TASTE & SIP

WINE CULTURE

Kevin Pilley ventures along INDIA’S

EVOLVING WINE TRAIL, where a

once improbable industry is gradually

finding both confidence and character,

and is redefining the country’s

viticulture landscape.

126 RETAIL THERAPY

With seasoned globetrotters moving

ever more frequently and with greater

discernment, selecting the right travel

essentials is increasingly about quality,

longevity and functionality. Researched

and road-tested, The Cultured

Traveller's curated selection brings

together key pieces built to last and

designed to perform.

139 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Web addresses for everywhere featured

in issue 54 of The Cultured Traveller.

140 TRAVEL TIPS AT THE TOP

With a career spanning film, fashion,

art and visual storytelling, we ask

award-winning filmmaker HARVEY

B-BROWN twelve questions about

packing well, flying in comfort, and

the destinations that continue to fuel

his imagination.

64

112

40

48


DEMELZA OXLEY

➤ COVER STORY ➤ LUCERNE

British-born and currently thriving in Copenhagen,

freelance product designer Demelza channels her

spare time into globetrotting and exploring her

passions for design, nature, and gastronomy.

She has visited almost 60 countries, and her

impressive portfolio includes work for Bang &

Olufsen, not to mention crafting materials for use

in British Airways First Class suites.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

PUBLISHER NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

DESIGN TAHIR IQBAL

EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON, LISA WEYMAN

ADVERTISING JEREMY GORING

RETOUCHING STELLA ALEVIZAKI

THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Demelza Oxley, Howard Healy, Niall Palmer

Laila Bosco, Kevin Pilley, Adrian Gibson

WITH THANKS TO

Luzern Tourismus AG, Marcel Perren, Sheryl Hauser

Christoph Franzen, Tobias Holliger, Fox Comms

Theresa Langmann of PR International

CONTRIBUTORS

LAILA BOSCO

➤ COVER STORY ➤ LUCERNE

Based in Lucerne, Swiss photographer and writer

Laila is drawn to people and stories that inspire

her. With a notebook in her backpack and a camera

in her hand, she can often be found wandering

through the alleys of Lucerne’s Old Town, along

Lake Lucerne, and into the mountains of central

Switzerland, capturing whatever interests her.

MONIKA TRAMŚ

➤ ART CULTURE ➤ NEW MUSUEUM, NYC

Warsaw-based Monika is a keen traveller and

often jets between the Polish capital, New York,

and Spain to visit cultural institutions and new

museums, exploring how design, culture and

architecture shape contemporary life. Day-to-day,

her work combines creative vision with strategic

thinking, redefining experience, aesthetics and the

emotional dimensions of modern living.

The Cultured Traveller

is a British publication headquartered in London

Editorial ➤ words@theculturedtraveller.com

Subscriptions ➤ subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com

Advertising ➤ ads@theculturedtraveller.com

Issue 54 of The Cultured Traveller

©️ 2026 The Cultured Traveller - All Rights Reserved

Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine

is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced

without written permission from the publisher.

The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of

its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily

shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff.

The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions,

but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles,

photographs or other materials submitted.

Read digital editions of The Cultured Traveller here

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THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

COCO LATTÉ, 5 MERCHANT SQUARE

LONDON W2 1AY, UNITED KINGDOM

COVER: Lucerne’s 15th century Spreuer Bridge crossing the

Reuss River at the western edge of the city’s Old Town.

Photographed by Laila Bosco.

10 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026



From left to right: Lucerne; New Museum of

Contemporary Art, New York; Wellington Statue,

Glasgow; SHIKI Omakase, Vienna

EDITOR’S LETTER

TRAVELLING THIS

summer undoubtedly feels

different to how it did last

year. Routes have shifted,

timetables have changed,

some established destinations

are currently out of bounds,

and flying in the coming

months may demand greater

patience and flexibility. Yet

perhaps this uncertainty is not

entirely unwelcome, and offers

something valuable in return,

encouraging us to look beyond

the obvious, reconsider places

once overlooked, and pursue

journeys with greater curiosity

and imagination.

INDEED, MANY OF TODAY’S MOST

rewarding experiences are found not in

destinations dominating social media feeds,

but in cities, regions and cultural institutions

quietly evolving with confidence and authenticity.

Increasingly, seasoned travellers are seeking

substance over spectacle, depth over immediacy, and

encounters shaped less by trends than by character.

THIS ISSUE OF THE CULTURED

Traveller embraces precisely that spirit of

discovery. On our cover, Lucerne is far more than

a picturesque Swiss lakeside city. Framed by

mountains and shaped by centuries of history,

Demelza Oxley discovers one of Central Europe’s

most graceful urban destinations, where medieval

streets, grand architecture and lakefront serenity

combine with unmistakable Swiss assurance

(page 48).

ACROSS THE POND, MONIKA TRAMŚ

visits Manhattan’s expanded New Museum of

Contemporary Art, where architecture, identity

and artistic experimentation

intersect within one of New

York’s most forward-thinking

cultural institutions (page 101).

Meanwhile in Scotland, Niall

Palmer explores Glasgow, a

city whose Victorian grandeur,

influential music scene and

flourishing creative energy

establishes it amongst Britain’s

most compelling metropolitan

escapes (page 86).

ELSEWHERE, KEVIN

Pilley ventures through

Maharashtra, where India’s

evolving wine industry

is gradually establishing sophistication and

individuality through vineyards and producers

challenging long-held assumptions surrounding

viticulture on the subcontinent (page 120). And in

Vienna, I take a pew at SHIKI Omakase's eightseat

counter, where Japanese precision, hushed

theatricality and exceptional sushi come together

in one of the Austrian capital’s most memorable

dining experiences (page 116).

WHEREVER THE COMING MONTHS

may take you, whether across continents or

perhaps somewhere unexpectedly close to home, I

sincerely hope this issue inspires fresh discoveries,

meaningful encounters and enduring memories

this summer.

Nicholas Chrisostomou

Editor-in-Chief

@TCTEditor

nicholas@theculturedtraveller.com

12 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


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FROM SACRED RITUALS AND CENTURIES OLD TRADITIONS TO

WORLD CLASS ART EXHIBITIONS AND HIGH-OCTANE FESTIVALS,

THIS SUMMER IS A VERITABLE CELEBRATION OF CULTURE IN ALL

ITS FORMS. ACROSS CONTINENTS, CITIES AND LANDSCAPES COME ALIVE

WITH SOUND, COLOUR AND STORYTELLING, AS THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ROUNDS

UP THE MOST COMPELLING EVENTS OF THE MONTHS AHEAD, ALONGSIDE A CURATED

SELECTION OF STANDOUT CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS HAPPENING AROUND THE WORLD

DISTORTION

FESTIVAL OF SAINT-DENIS

HOSTED INSIDE THE perform side-by-side with prestigious

Basilica Saint-Denis, a Parisian orchestral acts plus some of the

masterpiece of Gothic greatest artists on the international classical

art, this standout

circuit. Highlights of this year’s 52nd edition

classical music festival is a very good excuse include the renowned British acappella vocal

to cross the périphérique and discover a

ensemble, The King's Singers; Vox Luminis,

delightful northern Parisian suburb. A main one of the finest European Baroque vocal

event in the French cultural calendar since ensembles; The Orchestre National de Lille,

1968, the festival is organised by the city of led by Alpesh Chauhan; Egyptian soprano

Saint-Denis under the auspices of the

Fatma Saïd, and Le Cercle de l'Harmonie,

Île-de-France region, the French Ministry of conducted by Jérémie Rhorer, which will

Culture and Communication, Le Centre des perform Mozart's Great Mass in C minor.

Monuments Nationaux and Radio France. Until 23 June 2026

International conductors and soloists

https://festival-saint-denis.com

FOR MORE THAN 25 YEARS,

Distortion has been pushing

the limits of Copenhagen’s

party culture, attracting

DJs from across the globe and annually filling

the city centre with thousands of revellers. Today

Distortion is an over-the-top music extravaganza

that offers mammoth street parties during the

day, intimate club events by night (Distortion

Club) and, to round off the whole thing in suitably

loud fashion, a two-day weekend rave held at

Copenhagen’s harbour (Distortion Ø). Being such

an eco-friendly city, the street festivities are

financed by partygoers purchasing a //

Gadearmbåndet// street bracelet, so that the

Distortion crew can properly clean up once the

musical mayhem has ended. This year’s weekend

finale, Distortion Ø, is headlined by techno leader

Sara Landry (playing Friday 5 June), along with

Anetha, Carlita, and Kevin Saunderson.

Meanwhile electronic highlights include

Interplanetary Criminal (UK Garage), MCR-T

(Saturday 6 June), and WhoMadeWho playing a

hybrid DJ set.

3–7 June 2026

www.cphdistortion.dk

14 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


NEWSFLASH

REGATTA OF

ST. RANIERI

THE SECOND PART OF

an annual celebration

which takes place on

Saint Ranieri’s feast

day, the first regatta was held in Pisa in

1292, during the Palio of Our Lady of the

Assumption. Since then, every year, Pisa

stages a 1,500-metre dash up the River Arno

in celebration of San Ranieri, the city's

patron saint. In memory of the city’s nautical

traditions, four narrow rowing boats, each

differently coloured to represent the city’s

four main districts, challenge each other in a

flamboyant race. Each boat resembles a

large gondola, is fashioned in the style of the

frigates of the Medicean Order of the

Knights of St. Stephen founded in 1561 and is

crewed by eight oarsmen, a helmsman and a

montatore. Rowing against the river's

natural current, the race starts near the

bridge used by trains to cross the river, and

ends in front of the Palazzo Medici, near the

Ponte della Fortezza.

17 June 2026

SOLSTICE FEST

FOR THOUSANDS OF

years, Stonehenge has

been a place of worship

and celebration,

especially at the time of the summer

solstice. Literally meaning a stopping

or standing still of the sun, the summer

solstice is when the sun is directly above

the northern hemisphere, indicating

midsummer. For time immemorial, it has

been celebrated by everyone from ancient

druids performing rituals at stone circles,

to new-age neo-Pagan hippie revellers,

and even modern-day scientists. Held

within the vicinity of the prehistoric site

of Stonehenge, this five-day festival is the

one and only camping and live music event

close to the renowned World Heritage Site,

and provides a rare chance for members

of the general public to walk amongst the

ancient stone circle. This year the festival

will be headlined by The Dolmen, who

blend ancient myth with driving Celtic rock,

weaving pounding drums, electrified strings

and raw vocal power into songs that feel both

timeless and alive.

18–22 June 2026

https://stonehengefestivals.co.uk

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

15


NEWSFLASH

SÓNAR

MUSIC IS, BY FAR, THE

main focus of this annual

award-winning music

extravaganza held in

Barcelona, which began in 1994 as a networking

opportunity for the music industry. Officially

billed as a festival of progressive music and

multimedia art, Sónar now attracts tens of

thousands of lovers of electronica, who visit the

Catalan capital to worship cutting-edge artists

and DJs and enjoy avant-garde music and

spectacular multimedia art exhibitions. Sónar

features a somewhat eclectic mix of music,

technology and art, divided into two parts: Sónar

by Day includes workshops and exhibitions as

well as concerts, while the main event, Sónar by

Night, comprises a series of extraordinary

spectacles, with all activity concentrated at Fira

Gran Via for both day and night sessions.

Headlining this year's action will be British rave

legends The Prodigy, making their long-awaited

Sónar debut on the Saturday, while grime artist

Skepta headlines Friday. Queens of techno,

Charlotte de Witte and Amelie Lens, return with

new, dedicated audio-visual shows. And R&B

icon Kelis will make her Sónar debut.

18–20 June 2026

https://sonar.es/en

DUANWU JIÉ

THE ANNUAL SIGHT

of China’s rivers filled with

colourful vessels decked

out to look like dragons,

complete with fearsome snouts and scaly tails,

only means one thing: the annual dragon boat

festival. Whilst this flamboyant event is

moreover a great deal of fun, the festival’s roots

lie in tragedy, since it commemorates Qu Yuan, a

revered humanitarian politician and poet, who

drowned himself in the Miluo River in 278 BC, to

protest against the Qin state’s invasion of his

land. The dismayed common people took to their

boats and tried to keep the fish and evil spirits

away from Qu Yuan, by splashing their oars and

beating drums. Qin eventually conquered all of

its rival states and created China, but the

patriotic poet is nonetheless honoured. One of

the best places to catch Duanwu Jié and cheer

on the contestants as they row frantically

towards the finish line, is the Miluo River in the

southern province of Húnán, where Qu Yuan

unfortunately met his end.

19 June 2026

https://travelchina.org.cn/en

16 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


TRACEY EMIN: A SECOND LIFE

AT LONDON'S TATE MODERN,

Tracey Emin: A Second Life is

the most comprehensive

survey ever staged of the

British artist’s uncompromising, deeply personal

oeuvre. Spanning four decades, the exhibition brings

together more than one hundred works across

painting, neon, film, textile and sculpture, tracing a life

lived with rare candour and creative urgency.

Structured as both chronology and confession,

the show begins with early pieces that established

Emin’s unmistakable voice, including intimate video

works and fragile remnants of destroyed paintings.

From there, it moves through the emotional terrain

of her Margate upbringing, where memory,

vulnerability and identity are laid bare with

disarming directness. Recurring themes of love,

trauma and resilience surface in works that

confront subjects often left unspoken, rendered

through Emin’s raw visual language.

At its core sit two defining installations, My Bed

and Exorcism of the Last Painting I Ever Made,

marking a shift from collapse to renewal. More

recent works, including new bronzes and expansive

paintings, reflect a body reshaped by illness and a

spirit resolutely oriented towards the present. It is,

ultimately, a portrait not just of an artist, but of

survival itself.

Until 31 August 2026

https://tate.org.uk/visit

PHOTO: ©️ TATE (JAI MONAGHAN)

My Bed (1998) and It’s Not Me That’s Crying It's My Soul (2001)


RED BULL

SOAPBOX RACE

A UNIQUE NO-HOLDSbarred

downhill race

spectacle, in which drivers

use only gravity and

courage as fuel (plus perhaps a certain energy

drink), Red Bull has held well over 100 soapbox

races around the world since the first took

place in Brussels in 2000. Now an international

event staged everywhere from Australia to Italy,

amateur drivers race homemade engine-less

vehicles in a colourful downhill battle in front of

thousands of enthusiastic fans. This unique,

non-motorised racing event challenges both

experienced racers and amateurs alike to

design and build outrageous dream machines

and compete against the clock. Over the years,

previous entries have included a piano, a giant

baby carriage, a rodeo clown, a massive corn on

the cob, a jail cell and even the Golden Gate

Bridge. At this summer’s Red Bull Soapbox Race

at London’s Alexandra Palace, teams will be

judged on speed, creativity and showmanship.

This assumes, of course, that they make it to the

finish line!

20 June 2026

www.redbull.com/gb-en/events

PRIDE NEW YORK

EARLY IN THE MORNING

of 28 June 1969, police

raided the Stonewall Inn,

a gay bar in New York’s

West Village. The ensuing Stonewall riots

lasted several days and are considered to be

the beginning of the modern gay rights

movement. The first gay pride march was held

in 1970 and has become an annual civil rights

demonstration around the world. Over the

years its purpose has broadened to include

recognition of the fight against AIDS and to

remember those the community lost to illness,

violence and neglect. Pride New York is now a

massive celebration, attended by tens of

thousands and watched by even more. This

year, a full week of activities, festivities,

concerts and shows will culminate in a

show-stopping, carnival-like march through

the streets of New York on Saturday 28 June,

when the city’s gay community will be

celebrating its resilience and energy.

28 June 2026

https://nycpride.org

18 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


NEWSFLASH

BATALLA DEL VINO

EVERY YEAR ON ST.

Pedro’s Feast Day in

Haro – the capital of

northern Spain’s

Rioja-producing region – thousands of thirsty

locals, together with wine-loving tourists, climb

a mountain and literally throw wine all over

each other. Some brandish giant water pistols

loaded with wine. Others are armed with

pump-action super-soakers or spray cans

filled with wine. Meanwhile traditionalists opt

for gourds, buckets, bottles and even old

boots! Rather than a common-or-garden

feast day, locals refer to this messy event as

La Batalla de Vino de Haro, or, quite simply,

the “Wine Fight”. While the main event

happens annually on the day of the patron

saint San Pedro, the liquid madness actually

kicks-off the previous night on 28 June. And

as the proceedings unfold, pretty much all of

the townsfolk – from the little ones through

to their grandparents – gather outdoors in

Haro’s cobbled streets and quite literally

paint the town red with wine.

29 June 2026

https://batalladelvino.com

KIRKPINAR OIL

WRESTLING

THIS LONG-RUNNING TRADITION

was reportedly conceived by

Ottoman raiders, whose military

commander, Süleyman Pasa,

would let his bored soldiers unwind by wrestling, in

between bouts of actual fighting. According to legend,

on one particularly memorable occasion, as the

Ottoman army was returning to its Asian stronghold

in Bursa after conquering parts of Thrace, 40 men

scuffled all at once, with the two fiercest fighters

going at each other until both collapsed and died of

exhaustion. When the remaining army had conquered

Edirne, the victors referred to the 40 soldiers in the

name of Kirkpinar, near Edirne in Western Turkey,

where the wrestling competition has taken place

every summer since 1346. Now in its 665th outing, the

idea is to prevent your opponent from getting a good

grip, so more than 100 barrels of oil are used during the

tournament. With a solid gold belt awarded to the victor

there’s everything to play for, resulting in some seriously

no-holds-barred wrestling, and contestants literally

grabbing anything to win! .

29 June – 5 July 2026

https://goturkiye.com

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

19


NATIONAL FESTIVAL OF

POPULAR ARTS

IN THE HEIGHT OF SUMMER,

Marrakech transforms into

a vivid showcase of

Morocco’s cultural heritage

during the National Festival of Popular Arts.

First conceived in 1960 to preserve and

promote the country’s intangible traditions, the

event brings together performers from across

the kingdom, from the Atlas Mountains to the

desert plains, each presenting distinct music,

dance and ceremonial practices shaped by

centuries of regional identity. Performances

unfold in a series of atmospheric settings, most

notably within the vast courtyard of El Badi

Palace, where flickering torchlight and rhythmic

percussion create an evocative stage. Here,

ensembles perform Ahwach, Gnaoua and

Aissawa, their hypnotic chants reverberating

through the historic ruins. Beyond the formal

programme, the wider city comes alive with

impromptu displays of storytelling and music,

reinforcing Marrakech’s long standing role as a

meeting point of cultures. More than a festival,

it is a living expression of collective memory,

offering a rare and compelling insight into the

depth and diversity of Moroccan tradition.

2–6 July 2026

https://visitmarrakech.com

FIESTA DE SAN

FERMÍN

EVERY YEAR, THOUSANDS OF

Pamploneses (people from

Pamplona), plus countless

visitors who flood into the

pretty Spanish town from all over the world, all

dressed from head to toe in immaculate white

clothing with red handkerchiefs tied around their

necks, fill the streets of Pamplona to celebrate the

week of festivities in honour of San Fermín, also

known as Los Sanfermines. The festival of San

Fermín mixes a variety of contrasts: official and

popular culture, religion and profanity, new and old

and, as is often the case with a Spanish festival,

order and chaos. Celebrations kick off with the

launch of a rocket (el chupinazo) in Pamplona’s

Plaza Ayuntamiento at noon on 6 July and end nine

days later on 14 July. Every day includes a much

publicised bull-run, a parade of colourful gigantes

or cabezudos (big headed giants), a bullfight,

fireworks, obligatory carousing and a copious

amount of non-stop partying.

6–14 July 2026

www.sanfermin.com

20 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


QUEEN ELIZABETH II:

HER LIFE IN STYLE

AT BUCKINGHAM PALACE'S

King's Gallery, Queen Elizabeth II:

Her Life in Style offers a richly

layered exploration of a regal life

observed, in most part, through clothing. Presented to

mark the centenary of her birth, the exhibition brings

together more than 300 garments and accessories

from the late Queen’s wardrobe, many of which are

being shown publicly for the first time.

Moving from her earliest years to the final decades

of her reign, the display charts a thoughtful progression

in style, from delicate childhood pieces and post-war

couture to the assured, vividly coloured ensembles that

came to define her presence. Milestone garments sit

alongside quieter, more personal items, including

jewellery gifted by family and pieces adapted for

significant moments in her private life, offering a rare

sense of proximity to the woman behind the public role.

From archival materials and handwritten notes to

fabric swatches and the bejewelled gowns, everything

on display points to a monarch closely involved in the

creation of her wardrobe, shaping a visual language

that balanced duty and loyalty with individuality and

national symbolism.

Until 18 October 2026

www.rct.uk/visit

©️ ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST. PHOTOGRAPHER: PAUL BULLEY

1957 evening gown by Sir Norman Hartnell

in the Green Drawing Room at Windsor Castle


NEWSFLASH

RATH YATRA

ONE OF INDIA’S LARGEST

and most important Hindu

festivals, Rath Yatra

routinely draws more than a

million pilgrims and devotees to the streets of

Puri. Over the years, poets, saints and

scriptures have consistently praised the good

fortune associated with attending this “festival

of the chariots”, since it is one of the only times

annually that the deities leave the temple of

Jagannath and are exposed to non-Hindus and

visitors. The three figurines that make the trip

are Jagannath (considered to be the lord of the

universe and an incarnation of Vishnu, the god of

preservation), his older brother Balabhadra, and

their sister Subhadra. They travel more than a

mile in elaborate wooden chariots from

Jagannath Temple to Gundicha Temple, where

they remain for nine days. During the loud

procession, pilgrims vie for even a glimpse of the

gods, since they’re associated with extreme good

fortune and the righting of wrongs.

16 July 2026

www.rathyatra.org

VERBIER FESTIVAL

FOUNDED IN 1994 BY

Martin Engstroem, the

Verbier Festival has since

garnered a worldwide

reputation for artistic excellence and is now

considered to be one of Europe's most

important music gatherings. Every July, the

greatest names in classical music circles

gather for two weeks amongst the

breathtaking landscapes of the Swiss Alps, for

an exceptional series of dozens of concerts

featuring choirs, orchestras and intimate

recitals. In addition to showcasing worldrenowned

performers, promising new artists

and talented young musicians from all over the

world are invited to perform alongside their

grand masters. This year, a re-imagined

programme calling for peace, solidarity and

the inclusion of musicians from all nations

opens the festival on 15 July, with Italian

conductor Gianandrea Noseda conducting the

Verbier Festival Orchestra in a concert that

features Shostakovich’s Fourth Symphony

preceded by Rodion Shchedrin’s Second Piano

Concerto and Silvestrov's poignant work,

Prayer for Ukraine. At the piano will be

Ukrainian pianist Anna Fedorova, an alumna of

the Verbier Festival Academy.

16 July – 2 August 2026

https://verbierfestival.com

22 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


NEWSFLASH

SALZBURG FESTIVAL

FRAMED BY THE ELEGANT

Baroque architecture of

Salzburg’s old town, one

of Europe’s most revered

cultural gatherings returns with a programme

of remarkable breadth and refinement.

Founded in 1920, the Salzburg Festival has

become a defining fixture of the classical

music and performing arts calendar,

attracting leading orchestras, conductors

and performers from around the world. Opera

remains at the heart of the festival, staged in

venues such as the Grosses Festspielhaus

and the striking Felsenreitschule, where

productions unfold with both scale and

precision. Alongside these, orchestral

concerts and chamber recitals provide

moments of intimacy, while theatre

performances add further depth. Throughout,

the city itself becomes inseparable from the

experience, its streets animated by visitors

moving between performances, cafés and

historic squares. What distinguishes Salzburg

is not simply the calibre of its programme, but

the sense of continuity it offers, a dialogue

between tradition and reinvention played out

in a setting that feels entirely fitting for

cultural reflection.

17 July – 30 August 2026

www.salzburgerfestspiele.at

TOMORROWLAND

TOMORROWLAND IS THE

ultimate annual electronic

dance music festival for

many. Held in De Schorre,

the sheer extravagance of this festival, with its

psychedelic motifs and spectacular stages, gets

everyone going right from the start, and the energy

basically never stops. Coupled with open fields

filled with tents and camps surrounding the stages

for people to rest and sleep while enjoying the

music, Tomorrowland is both a musical melting

pot and a global meeting place for people around

the world who enjoy the same kind of pulsating

music. This year’s festival is taking place over

two consecutive three-day weekends, featuring

hundreds of the world’s best electronic artists

performing across more than a dozen stages,

including superstar DJ Calvin Harris making his

long-awaited Tomorrowland mainstage debut, plus

David Guetta, Martin Garrix, Hardwell, Dimitri Vegas

& Like Mike, Alesso, Fisher and many more.

17–19 + 24–26 July 2026

www.tomorrowland.com

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

23


NEWSFLASH

COMIC-CON INTERNATIONAL

THE MASSIVE RISE IN

popularity of animated

films, western cartoons

and Anime, as well as

video games and fantasy novels, has caused

the Comic-Con franchise to grow hugely since

in recent decades. Comic-Con International

– San Diego's four-day convergence of

costumes and fun – is where fans meet comics

creators, science fiction and fantasy authors,

film and TV directors, producers and writers

and play in their very own comic fantasyland.

For those seeking to reawaken the child inside

them, this lively gathering is literally the

perfect place to be. Packed with everything

from autograph signings and costume

contests to animation and film screenings, a

massive programming schedule features

hundreds of individual events including

hands-on workshops, educational and

academic sessions, video games forums,

portfolio reviews, art shows, a masquerade

competition and the Will Eisner Comic Industry

Awards, all crammed into just four days.

23–26 July 2026

www.comic-con.org

MAINE LOBSTER

FESTIVAL

TWO HOURS’ DRIVE FROM

Portland and four from

Boston, this annual non-profit

celebration of all-things

lobster is held in the classic American harbour town

of Rockland, in the nation’s easternmost state of

New England. What began more than seventy years

ago as an initiative to revive local Midcoast Maine

marine communities is today an internationally

recognised celebration of local seafood. Very much

a family-orientated gathering, the proceedings

include a parade, live music, a 10-kilometre road

race, local arts and crafts, an array of entertainers;

cooking contests and fairground rides, not to

mention the consumption of more than 20,000

pounds of cooked lobster. Add in clams, calamari,

scallops and haddock – all freshly sourced from the

Atlantic Ocean – and Maine Lobster Festival is

without doubt a marine crustacean-lovers’ dream!

This year’s activities even include a race across a

makeshift bridge of lobster crates, which is open to

anyone brave enough to risk falling in the ocean with

hundreds of people watching!

29 July – 2 August 2026

https://mainelobsterfestival.com

24 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


HENRY MOORE: MONUMENTAL NATURE

PHOTO: JONTY WILDE

SPREAD ACROSS KEW GARDENS' SWEEPING 320

acres of lush botanicals, Henry Moore: Monumental

Nature is the most ambitious outdoor exhibition of the

celebrated English visual artist's semi-abstract work. More

than 30 sculptures are positioned throughout the gardens, from open lawns to

wooded corners, with additional works placed inside the vast Temperate House,

the world’s largest surviving Victorian glasshouse.

Moore’s enduring fascination with organic form is central to the

experience. Pieces such as Large Two Forms and Sheep Piece sit

comfortably within their surroundings, their sculpted curves echoing the

shapes of bone, stone and landscape. Rather than dominating the terrain,

they appear to belong to it, encouraging visitors to consider the

relationship between art, environment and the human figure.

Meanwhile, inside the Shirley Sherwood Gallery, more than 90 further

works, including drawings, carvings and prints, offer insight into Moore’s

creative thinking, shaped by a lifelong engagement with nature’s complexity.

Together, the exhibition provides a rare opportunity to encounter his work at

scale, where sculpture and setting exist in quiet and compelling harmony.

Until 31 January 2027

www.kew.org

Mother And Child: Block Seat (1983-1984)


NEWSFLASH

BRIGHTON & HOVE PRIDE

AT THE HEART OF BRIGHTON

& Hove Pride’s weekend

programme, Pride on the

Park transforms Preston

Park into one of the United Kingdom’s most

dynamic gatherings of music, identity and

collective expression. This year carries particular

resonance, marking 35 years of Pride in Brighton,

with global icon Diana Ross headlining the main

stage. Ross’s appearance elevates the event

beyond a typical festival setting. With a career

that has shaped decades of popular music, her

performance brings both stature and emotional

weight, aligning seamlessly with this year’s

theme, The Power of Love. Alongside artists such

as RAYE, Jessie J and RuPaul, the line-up spans

generations and genres, though it is Ross’s

enduring influence that defines the weekend’s

musical centre. Elsewhere, multiple stages and

curated spaces introduce cabaret, electronic

music and emerging queer voices, reinforcing

Pride’s commitment to visibility and inclusion.

For many, however, the defining moment will

surely be witnessing a true legend command

the stage, before a crowd united in energy,

purpose and shared joy.

2 August 2026

www.brighton-pride.org

POL’AND’ROCK

FESTIVAL

THERE AREN'T MANY

large-scale music

festivals in the world

today that are

completely free to attend. Pol'and'Rock,

formerly known as Woodstock Festival

Poland, is one of them, which almost

certainly guarantees the festival’s

mantra of "Love, Friendship and Music”.

Inspired by America’s famous Woodstock

of 1969, the Polish descendant’s runaway

success and massive European

popularity is due to the festival’s very

simple approach that one act of kindness

will surely lead to another and another.

Organised by the Great Orchestra of

Christmas Charity to acknowledge all the

supporters who participate in its massive

annual fundraiser, and masterminded by

Polish journalist and social campaigner

Jerzy Owsiak, Pol'and'Rock is a peaceful

gathering and much more than a simple

festival. Its mission is to be "as much

about music as harmonious coexistence”,

where the huge strain of

social and economic hardship dissipates

and love, awareness and understanding

are palpable throughout.

30 July – 1 August 2026

https://en.polandrockfestival.pl

Diana Ross

26 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


NEWSFLASH

BRISTOL BALLOON FIESTA

BRISTOL’S ANNUAL HOT AIR

balloon extravaganza takes

place in the delightful

surroundings of Ashton

Court Estate, which was once the gracious home

of the Smyth family and is now a historic

850-acre park, just ten minutes from the city

centre in beautiful South West England. North

Somerset's annual hot air balloon extravaganza is

Europe’s largest yearly meet for ballooning

enthusiasts, attracting more than one hundred hot

air balloons from across the globe. Witnessing a

mass ascent of balloons in all shapes and sizes,

lifting into the sky at once and instantly filling it

with glorious colours, is truly a spectacular sight

to behold. Not to be missed is the festival’s famous

“Night Glow” event, on Saturday night 10th August,

which sees multitudinous balloons glowing to

music after the sun has set, followed by a dazzling

fireworks display. A variety of entertainment,

arena events and a giant fairground complete the

weekend’s carnival-like feel.

7–9 August 2026

www.bristolballoonfiesta.co.uk

FESTIVAL INTERCÉLTICO DE LORIENT

ON THE RUGGED SOUTHERN

coast of Brittany, the port city of

Lorient becomes a vibrant meeting

point for Celtic culture during

one of Europe’s most distinctive summer gatherings.

Established in 1971, the Festival Interceltique de Lorient

brings together artists and performers from across the

Celtic nations, including Ireland, Scotland, Wales, Galicia

and Asturias, in a spirited celebration of shared heritage

and identity. Music lies at the heart of the proceedings,

with everything from traditional pipe bands and Breton

fest noz dancing to contemporary interpretations

that push Celtic sounds in new directions. Streets and

squares fill with processions, costumed performers

and impromptu concerts, while the Grand Parade sees

thousands of musicians and dancers move through the

city in a colourful display of pageantry and pride. Beyond

performance, the festival also explores language, craft

and gastronomy, offering a broader understanding of

Celtic life and its enduring influence. Set against the

Atlantic backdrop, with sea air carrying the sound of

fiddles and bagpipes, the experience feels both deeply

rooted and joyfully alive, a celebration that bridges past

and present with remarkable energy.

7–16 August 2026

www.festival-interceltique.bzh

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

27


NEWSFLASH

OBON

CELEBRATED IN JAPAN

for more than half a

millennium and a

historic, annual occasion

to commemorate one's ancestors, Obon is

based on a Buddhist legend that tells of the

spirits of the deceased returning to earth to

visit their families. The main Awa Odori part

of Obon lasts for four days in Tokushima

Prefecture, on the east side Shikoku, which is

the smallest of Japan’s major islands. While

chochin lanterns are ritually hung in front of

houses to guide in the ancestors' spirits,

graves are visited, and food offerings are

made at home altars and temples,

traditional folk dances are performed by

dance troupes led by musicians playing a

range of Japanese instruments, including

the shamisen, taiko drums and the

shinobue. Obon ends with the beautiful ritual

of Toro Nagashi, during which hundreds of

candlelit lanterns are released into the ocean,

rivers and lakes and float away carrying

ancestors' spirits back to the afterlife.

13–16 August 2026

MELBOURNE INTERNATIONAL

FILM FESTIVAL

A CORNERSTONE OF

Australia’s cultural

calendar, the Melbourne

International Film

Festival brings a cosmopolitan energy to the

southern hemisphere winter, drawing

filmmakers, critics and cinephiles from

across the globe. Established in 1952, it

stands as one of the oldest film festivals in

the world, and has long played a vital role in

shaping Australia’s cinematic landscape

while championing international storytelling.

Screenings take place across a network of

venues in the heart of Melbourne, from grand

heritage theatres to contemporary

screening spaces, creating a citywide

celebration of film. The programme is notably

expansive, spanning independent features,

major premieres, documentaries and

experimental works, with a strong emphasis

on emerging voices alongside established

directors. Australian cinema is given

particular prominence, offering audiences a

window into the nation’s evolving creative

identity. Beyond the screenings, the festival

fosters meaningful exchange through talks,

panel discussions and industry events,

where ideas are shared as readily as films.

With its thoughtful curation and engaged

audiences, it offers not only a platform for

cinema, but a deeper reflection on the

stories that shape how we see the world.

7–24 August 2026

https://miff.com.au

28 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


PALIO DELL’ASSUNTO

DEEPLY ROOTED IN

religion, for two days

every year Italy's most

famous annual sporting

event, Siena's Palio, takes over the city with its

epic horse race. As much about pageantry,

civic identity and Sienese pride as it is about

bareback horse racing, while the three-lap

race lasts for barely a minute and a half, the

celebrating lasts for days. But the sight is truly

epic and worth seeing at least once in your

lifetime. The 16th August race - Palio

dell’Assunto - has been held almost

uninterruptedly in Siena’s civic hub, Piazza del

Campo, since 1644. Ten of the city’s seventeen

districts are represented in the race. The

seven districts that didn’t race in the previous

July or August compete by right, and are joined

by horses from three lucky repeat districts

drawn by ballot. More than half the riders get

bucked, which greatly entertains the

40,000-strong Sienese crowd crammed into

the piazza on race day.

16 August 2026

MOUNT HAGEN CULTURAL SHOW

FIRST STAGED IN 1961

before PNG's independence

as an event to unify tribes,

every year since 1964, during

the third weekend of August, the city of Mount

Hagen has hosted one of the largest gatherings

in the country. Known locally as "sing-sings”,

taking place in the large, fertile Wahgi Valley in

the Western Highlands Province of PNG’s central

mainland, and named after an old eroded

volcano, the Mount Hagen Cultural Show is

staged at Kagamuga Show Ground. With more

than 100 tribes in attendance, the concept of this

peaceful event is pretty simple: each tribe – clad

in elaborate body paint, extravagant

headdresses and jewellery fashioned from

bones, tusks and shells – shares their cultural

traditions through costume, dance and music,

and performs a primal dance based on its own

unique legend. Quite simply, the winning

performance is the one which receives the most

applause from the crowd.

10–18 August 2026

https://papuanewguinea.travel

BURNING MAN

FOR ONE WEEK THIS

summer, Nevada's

unforgiving Black Rock

Desert will spring to life

when tens of thousands of people come together

for Burning Man, the largest outdoor arts festival

in North America and one of the most iconic

festivals on the planet. Described as the ultimate

culmination of community, art, self-expression

and self-reliance, participants combine their

efforts to create Black Rock City, a temporary

metropolis dedicated to art and togetherness.

Burning Man celebrates alternative lifestyles

through music, art and the unique camaraderie

that develops during the gathering. The vision is

to "bring experiences to people in grand,

awe-inspiring and joyful ways that lift the human

spirit, address social problems and inspire a

sense of culture, community and personal

engagement." The event's name comes from the

ritual burning of a wooden effigy, which occurs

on the last Saturday night of the festival. In tune

with this year's theme of "Axis Mundi," new

layout adjustments and cosy chill zones have

been designed to foster smaller, intimate

gatherings and enhance sustainability.

30 Aug – 7 Sept 2026

https://burningman.org

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

29


rest your h

➤ LAKE COMO ➤ SINGAPORE ➤ SVETI STEFAN ➤ SUNNY ISLES BEACH ➤ RABAT ➤ ROME

➤ KARNAL ➤ BELGRADE ➤ SARDINIA ➤ BUDAPEST ➤ RHODES ➤ OKAVANGO DELTA


ead

FROM THE DESIGN LED ENERGY OF THE

LAKE COMO EDITION AND ADRIATIC

GRANDEUR OF AMAN SVETI STEFAN, TO THE

AEGEAN STILLNESS OF AMOH ON RHODES

AND UNTAMED WILDERNESS SURROUNDING

MBAMBA IN BOTSWANA, THE CULTURED

TRAVELLER VISITS TWELVE NEW HOTELS

WHERE DESTINATION, CHARACTER AND A

STRONG SENSE OF PLACE DEFINE EVERY STAY

LAKE COMO ITALY

THE LAKE COMO EDITION

LAKE COMO HAS ATTRACTED ARISTOCRATS, ARTISTS, COMPOSERS

and film stars for more than two centuries, drawn to the

extraordinary beauty of northern Italy’s most celebrated lake. Hemmed in

by dramatic Alpine foothills and dotted with cypress trees, ochre villas and

tiny waterside towns, the region possesses a theatrical grandeur that feels

distinctly different from the softer romance of Tuscany or the polished

glamour of Portofino.

From Bellagio and Varenna to Menaggio and Tremezzo, ferries glide

between elegant promenades and steep cobbled lanes, while grand hotels

and lakeside gardens recall an era when European nobility escaped here

during the summer months. Yet despite its enduring cachet, Lake Como has

traditionally leaned towards old world formality rather than contemporary

luxury. That balance has now shifted with the arrival of The Lake Como

EDITION in Cadenabbia, on the lake’s western shore, directly facing Bellagio

across shimmering water.

Introducing a more vibrant, international energy to one of Italy’s most

storied destinations, and occupying a historic lakeside property originally

built in 1830, the 148-room hotel, including 25 suites and two penthouses

housed within Villa Gina, brings the brand’s design-led sensibility to a

region more commonly associated with ornate grandeur.

Interiors balance contemporary refinement with subtle Italian

references, incorporating terrazzo flooring, walnut detailing, pale marble

and carefully framed lake views throughout the property. Public areas feel

particularly striking, from the soaring lobby with its sculptural staircase and

celadon marble bar to the expansive waterfront terraces overlooking the

water. Culinary direction comes from Mauro Colagreco, the acclaimed chef

behind Mirazur in Menton, who oversees several distinct dining concepts

including the signature restaurant, Cetino, and the more relaxed Renzo.

Outside, a floating lakeside pool, private dock and promenade positions

guests directly at the water’s edge. And a longevity-focused spa offers

advanced wellness treatments and biohacking therapies rarely associated

with traditional Lake Como hospitality.

www.editionhotels.com


SINGAPORE

VAREL SINGAPORE

FEW CITIES BALANCE RELENTLESS MODERNITY AND DEEProoted

heritage quite like Singapore. Beneath its polished

skyline lies a metropolis shaped by layered histories, migration and

cultural exchange. Chinese temples, Indian shrines and colonial era

architecture sit alongside soaring towers and contemporary galleries,

while hawker centres and independent cafés continue to define daily life

as much as its tourist attractions. Yet increasingly, some of the city’s

most compelling corners are found beyond Marina Bay and Orchard

Road, particularly in districts where older streets are quietly evolving into

creative and cultural enclaves.

Positioned between Little India, Bugis and Dhoby Ghaut, Selegie

has long retained a distinctly local character despite the pace of

redevelopment elsewhere across the island. Historic shophouses, late

night eateries and ageing apartment blocks lend the area an appealing

sense of texture and familiarity, while a growing number of independent

businesses have recently introduced fresh energy. It is within this quietly Inside, guestrooms balance contemporary simplicity with nostalgic

transforming neighbourhood that Varel Singapore has opened, drawing local references, from carpet motifs inspired by the Southeast Asian

much of its identity from the spirit and stories of its surroundings.

dessert of chendol, to vintage lift style screens and dim sum influenced

lighting. Public spaces continue the narrative through traditional games,

Occupying the former site of Selegie Centre and conceived as an urban handcrafted objects and subtle nods to Singapore’s multicultural

sanctuary rooted in memory and locality, 128-room Varel Singapore

identity. Four dining concepts shape the hotel’s social scene, including

draws heavily on the childhood experiences of its owner, who grew

Hathaway Autograph, which reinterprets Southeast Asian classics,

up nearby. Designed by award winning architectural practice FDAT,

and Saga Bar, a cosy cocktail lounge inspired by regional spices and

the building references the tempo and proportions of surrounding

aromas. And the hotel is crowned by a rooftop infinity pool that offers

shophouses while introducing sky terraces, greenery and open-air

expansive skyline views across Selegie and beyond.

spaces that soften the density of the neighbouring cityscape.

https://tribute-portfolio.marriott.com

32


SVETI STEFAN MONTENEGRO

AMAN SVETI STEFAN

ALONG MONTENEGRO’S ADRIATIC COASTLINE, WHERE PINE

covered mountains descend sharply towards the sea,

Sveti Stefan remains one of the Mediterranean’s most striking coastal

landmarks. Connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway, the

tiny fortified islet sits just south of Budva, its cluster of weathered

stone cottages and terracotta rooftops appearing almost unchanged

for centuries.

Fringed by olive groves and overlooked by dense woodland, the area

around Sveti Stefan offers a more refined and understated alternative

to many of the Adriatic’s busier resort destinations, with medieval

towns, ancient monasteries and winding coastal roads tracing the edge

of the Adriatic.

Reopened for summer 2026, Aman Sveti Stefan occupies one of

Europe’s most unusual hotel settings, divided between the historic

island itself and neighbouring Villa Miločer, once the summer residence

of Queen Marija Karađorđević. Rather than dramatically reinventing the

property, Aman’s approach has carefully preserved the atmosphere

and character of the original fishing village through restored stone

buildings, hand finished stucco, oak detailing and narrow cobbled

pathways winding above the Adriatic.

Accommodation is spread between the island’s historic cottages

and suites alongside the mainland villa, many offering expansive sea

views and exceptional privacy. Meanwhile a trio of beaches, including

the private Queen’s Beach, reinforce the resort’s strong connection

to the surrounding coastline; An expansive Aman Spa incorporates

hydrotherapy facilities, indoor and outdoor pools and treatments

inspired by local herbs and botanicals. And dining focuses on

uncomplex Adriatic flavours served across terraces, courtyards

and waterfront settings that allow the scenery to speak for itself.

In keeping with Aman’s longstanding philosophy, while being truly

luxe, the overall experience of staying at Sveti Stefan feels personal,

understated, and genuinely rooted in the destination.

www.aman.com

33


SUNNY ISLES BEACH UNITED STATES

THE SUNNY

LONG ASSOCIATED WITH WIDE BEACHES, HIGH RISE

oceanfront living, and a slower pace than neighbouring

Miami Beach, Sunny Isles has evolved into one of South Florida’s most

polished coastal enclaves. Stretching between the Atlantic Ocean and

the Intracoastal Waterway, this compact barrier island combines long

sweeps of pale sand with a growing collection of contemporary residences,

restaurants, and lifestyle venues, while remaining within easy reach of both

Miami and Fort Lauderdale. Although development has transformed much

of the skyline over the past two decades, traces of the area’s earlier resort era

still linger along Collins Avenue, where generations of Floridians once came for

relaxed seaside holidays and weekend escapes.

It is within this changing landscape that The Sunny finds its place, occupying

the former Newport Beachside Hotel & Resort site, beside the historic Newport

Fishing Pier. Reimagined for a new generation of travellers, the property

reflects both the area’s growing sophistication and the enduring appeal of

uncomplicated beachfront living.

Making its debut earlier this year, The Sunny has introduced a lighter, more

contemporary approach to oceanfront hospitality in Sunny Isles Beach. Helmed

by a third-generation family of hoteliers, the 339-room property combines a

distinctly social atmosphere with interiors that balance warm timber tones,

sculptural detailing, living greenery, and soft coastal hues.

Guest rooms have been designed with comfort and simplicity in mind, many

opening onto balconies with expansive sea views. Public areas encourage

meeting and conversation. The hotel’s culinary programme ranges from the

casual Lovebirds Café to an oceanfront restaurant positioned above Newport

Pier, alongside a cocktail and listening lounge inspired by the property’s musical

past. And an oceanfront pool deck, fire pits, spa and private cabanas reinforce

the hotel’s broad appeal. Rather than chasing excess, The Sunny focuses on

ease, warmth, and creating a sense of shared experience beside the sea.

www.thesunnyhotel.com

34



RABAT MALTA

VERDALA WELLNESS HOTEL

AWAY FROM MALTA’S BUSY HARBOUR FRONTS AND HEAVILY

developed coastal districts, the landscape around Rabat and

Mdina carries a noticeably calmer rhythm. Here, cultivated fields spread

across gently undulating limestone terrain broken by dry stone walls, olive

groves and scattered farmhouses that have shaped the island’s rural

identity for centuries. Roads narrow as they climb inland, passing small

villages crowned by church domes and stretches of open countryside

looking towards the Mediterranean. Historically tied to agriculture and

religious life, this central part of Malta remains closely connected to the

island’s older traditions.

Nearby Mdina, the country’s former capital, continues to draw visitors

with its imposing fortifications, Baroque architecture and labyrinthine

streets, while Rabat’s surrounding valleys and walking trails offer a quieter

counterpoint to Malta’s more crowded shoreline. Positioned on elevated

ground just outside Rabat, Verdala Wellness Hotel overlooks this distinctly

rural pocket of the island, with far reaching views extending across the

countryside towards the sea.

Set within landscaped grounds overlooking Malta’s western coastline,

Verdala Wellness Hotel combines contemporary architecture with a

notably restrained and understated design approach. Large terraces,

clean horizontal lines and expansive glazing give the property an

immediate sense of openness, while interiors favour natural textures,

muted earth tones and carefully controlled lighting throughout the

guestrooms and shared spaces.

Accommodation ranges from spacious suites with private pools to

larger residences designed for longer stays, many oriented towards

uninterrupted countryside and water vistas. The hotel’s wellness focus

extends across much of the property, from its substantial spa and

hydrotherapy facilities to dedicated fitness and treatment areas intended

for restorative, longer form programmes, rather than quick stopover visits.

And although undeniably modern in appearance, Verdala’s setting above

Rabat ensures that the calming surrounding landscape remains central to

every stay experience.

https://axhotelsmalta.com

36


ROME ITALY

CASA J.K. PLACE ROMA

LAYERED WITH MORE THAN TWO MILLENNIA OF HISTORY,

Rome remains one of Europe’s most captivating capitals, a

city where monumental architecture and everyday life continue to exist

side by side with remarkable ease. Around the Centro Storico, grand

Baroque churches, hidden courtyards and ochre coloured palazzi line

streets that have changed little for generations, while cafés, wine bars and

artisan boutiques animate the ground floors below shuttered apartments.

Between Piazza Navona, the Pantheon and the Spanish Steps, the

atmosphere feels particularly cinematic, especially in the evening when

marble fountains glow under streetlamps and much of the daytime bustle

begins to fade.

Despite drawing millions of visitors every year, this part of Rome still

rewards slower exploration. Narrow side streets often lead unexpectedly

towards tiny trattorias, old bookstores and quiet piazzas where local

residents continue long established routines, largely untouched by

tourism. It is within this historic quarter, on Via dei Prefetti, that Casa J.K.

Place Roma recently opened inside an 18th century palazzo just minutes

from Piazza di Spagna.

Offering a markedly more residential style of luxury hospitality from the

Italian brand best known for its intimate hotels, Casa J.K. Place Roma was

designed by Michele Bönan and comprises just a dozen one, two and three

bedroom residences arranged across three floors, each conceived to

function as an elegant private apartment.

Kitchens finished with bronzed steel and Calacatta marble sit alongside

generous dining spaces intended for entertaining and longer stays, while

Statuario marble floors, vaulted ceilings and salvaged fireplaces add

warmth and character throughout. A palette of Pompeian red, celadon

green and tobacco tones runs through the interiors, complemented

by custom furnishings, velvet upholstery and carefully layered lighting

designed specifically for the property. Guests have access to a private

lounge, well-equipped gym, and dedicated butler and concierge services.

And at the heart of the palazzo, Al Ventidue restaurant occupies a glass

covered courtyard centred around a beautiful fountain, and serves

contemporary interpretations of Italian regional cuisine.

More private residence than conventional hotel, Casa J.K. Place

Roma has evidently been thoughtfully conceived for travellers seeking a

longer, more immersive relationship with The Eternal City.

www.jkplaces.com

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER 37


KARNAL INDIA

NOORMAHAL

FOR CENTURIES, NORTHERN INDIA’S GRAND TRUNK

Road connected kingdoms, trading centres and imperial

capitals across the subcontinent, carrying merchants, pilgrims and

armies between Delhi, Punjab and beyond. Even today, the historic route

remains one of the country’s great arterial highways, cutting through

fertile plains shaped by wheat fields, mustard farms and scattered

market towns. Karnal, positioned along this corridor in Haryana, has

long occupied an important geographical position between the Mughal

monuments of Delhi and the northern hill states. Although often passed

through en route to elsewhere, the region carries its own quieter

historical significance, tied to military campaigns, agriculture and the

movement of travellers across northern India for generations.

Beyond Karnal’s expanding urban outskirts, broad roads give way to

open land, low rise settlements and stretches of cultivated countryside

characteristic of Haryana’s interior.

woodwork, rich textiles and an extensive collection of art and historical

artefacts.

176 guestrooms and suites include the expansive Raja Niwas and

Khwabgah penthouses, both designed with private terraces and generous

living areas, and served by dedicated butler services. Dining ranges from

North Western frontier cuisine at The Frontier Mail, to international dishes

at Colonel Saab, alongside cocktails at The Polo Bar and handcrafted

desserts at The Cake Factory. And leisure facilities include a spa, outdoor

pool, gym, tennis courts, pickleball, ziplining and rock climbing.

https://autograph-hotels.marriott.com

Positioned on India's longest national highway, the NH 44, which

stretches more than 4,000 kilometres from Srinagar in the north

to Kanyakumari at the southern tip of the subcontinent, Noormahal

draws upon its location in Haryana while reflecting the grandeur and

architectural traditions historically associated with India’s royal courts.

Conceived as a contemporary palace hotel inspired by Mughal,

Rajput and Punjabi architectural traditions, the exterior of Noormahal

is punctuated by domes, scalloped arches, ornamental detailing and

intricate jali work, while interiors incorporate artisanal finishes, carved

38 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


THE BRISTOL BELGRADE

BELGRADE HAS LONG OCCUPIED A CURIOUS POSITION

between Central Europe and the Balkans, shaped as much by

the Austro-Hungarian Empire as by the Ottoman centuries that preceded

it. Few European capitals wear their layers of history quite so openly.

Along boulevards and avenues, ornate early twentieth century façades

stand beside socialist era blocks, while cafés, galleries and cocktail bars

spill late into the evening with the energy for which the Serbian capital

has become increasingly known. Although the city’s bohemian quarter of

Skadarlija and the fortress overlooking the confluence of the Sava and

Danube rivers remain central to Belgrade’s identity, the area surrounding

Karađorđeva Street and the redeveloped waterfront has emerged as one

of the city’s most dynamic districts in recent years.

BELGRADE SERBIA

Positioned within a few minutes' of the Sava River, The Bristol Belgrade

reopened in mid-2025 in this evolving quarter, as one of the Serbian

capital’s most storied hotels. Originally constructed between 1910 and

1912 to designs by architect Nikola Nestorović, the monumental Art

Nouveau building once stood at the centre of Belgrade’s social and

political life, welcoming an eclectic roster of guests over the decades,

that included the Rockefeller family, Josip Broz Tito and

chess grandmaster Garry Kasparov.

Following an extensive transformation lasting more than two and a half

years, the reimagined hotel retains its historic character; the building's

restored façades once again anchor the surrounding streetscape, and

its new interiors pair soft neutral tones, polished stone and curved

architectural detailing with reproductions of original decorative motifs

inspired by French Art Nouveau and Eastern European design traditions.

Public spaces include an elegant lobby lounge, a library centred around

a fireplace, a serene spa and expansive gym, and a dramatic glassceilinged

light filled dining atrium, that restores a sense of openness to

the heart of the building.

Guestrooms continue the understated palette, combining tailored

furnishings with high ceilings, slick bathrooms and generous natural

light. More than simply reopening a landmark address, The Bristol

Belgrade has reintroduced one of the city’s defining historic hotels to a

new generation of travellers, reconnecting contemporary Belgrade with

an important part of its architectural and cultural past.

https://thebristolbelgrade.com

39


POLTU QUATU ITALY

W SARDINIA – POLTU QUATU

ALONG SARDINIA’S NORTHEASTERN COASTLINE, WHERE

jagged granite formations descend into water of startling

clarity, the Costa Smeralda has long attracted an international summer

crowd drawn by its marinas, beaches and slower Mediterranean pace of

life. Yet despite its close proximity to Porto Cervo, the harbour village

of Poltu Quatu feels noticeably more discreet. Built around a narrow

natural inlet framed by steep rocky hillsides, the village takes its name

from the ancient Sardinian phrase for “hidden port”, an apt description

for a setting that remains relatively sheltered from the busier rhythm of the

surrounding coast.

Whitewashed buildings curve around the marina, restaurants spill onto

terraces beside the water, and boats drift quietly between the harbour

and the nearby Maddalena archipelago, whose protected islands and

secluded coves are among the Mediterranean’s most spectacular coastal the surrounding coastline. Locally commissioned ceramics, woven

landscapes. Positioned between Porto Cervo and Baia Sardinia, Poltu

artworks and photography by Sardinian artists appear throughout guest

Quatu also provides easy access to the wider Gallura region, where winding accommodations and public areas, creating a stronger connection to place

coastal roads and rugged inland scenery continue to define this part of

than many larger Mediterranean resorts manage to achieve.

northern Sardinia.

Several suites feature private plunge pools and expansive terraces

overlooking either the marina or surrounding hillsides. The social energy

Recently opened, W Sardinia – Poltu Quatu brings Marriott’s increasingly

of the resort centres around the broad WET Deck, the marina facing

design conscious lifestyle brand to this secluded corner of the Costa

TANIT seafood restaurant, and the vaulted W Lounge. And an AWAY Spa,

Smeralda. Designed by New York studio Meyer Davis, the 157-room

Technogym-equipped FIT studio and curated excursions around the

resort combines the whitewashed architecture historically associated

Maddalena islands reinforce the brand's more contemporary approach to

with the area, with softer contemporary interiors shaped by pale

Sardinian hospitality.

timber, textured plaster, curved forms and stone surfaces inspired by

https://w-hotels.marriott.com

40


41


BUDAPEST HUNGARY

THE ST. REGIS BUDAPEST

STRADDLING THE DANUBE IN STATELY FASHION, BUDAPEST

remains one of Europe’s grandest capitals, a city where

Neo Gothic spires, Belle Époque cafés and fading Austro Hungarian

splendour coexist with a flourishing contemporary cultural scene.

Divided by the river into hilly Buda and elegant Pest, the Hungarian

capital has for decades drawn globetrotters in search of thermal baths,

concert halls, vibrant bars and cafés humming with conversation. And

while tourists routinely flock city landmarks including the Parliament

Building, the Chain Bridge and the hilltop terraces of Buda Castle,

central Pest has, in recent years, entered a polished new chapter, with

restorations breathing life back into some of the city’s most significant

historic buildings.

Standing close to Elisabeth Bridge on the Pest embankment, Klotild Palace

has always occupied one of Budapest’s most commanding positions.

Built between 1899 and 1902 as one half of a monumental twin palace

commissioned by Archduchess Klotild, the building once served as an

architectural gateway to the city. More than a century later, following an

extensive restoration, the palace has now entered a fresh era as The

St. Regis Budapest, bringing one of hospitality’s most storied luxury

brands to the Hungarian capital for the very first time.

Designed by Hungarian architects Flóris Korb and Kálmán Giergl,

the Neo Baroque landmark retains its theatrical sense of arrival,

most strikingly expressed through a dramatic central staircase

crowned by a soaring glass atrium threaded with intricate bronze

detailing. Interiors take their cues from Budapest’s café culture and

famed bathhouses, blending curved architectural lines, decorative

tiles and richly textured materials. And throughout the hotel’s 102

guestrooms and suites, references to Budapest’s artistic heritage

appear in subtle ways, from Art Nouveau inspired motifs and brass

accents to blue toned artworks inspired by the Danube, with several

suites overlooking Elisabeth Bridge and the river itself, and the 169

square metre Presidential Suite featuring a private balcony which

enjoys sweeping views across the city skyline.

https://stregisbudapest.com

42 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


AMOH

RHODES HAS LONG OCCUPIED A STRATEGIC POSITION

between East and West, its shores shaped as much by

successive civilisations as by the forces of the Aegean itself. From the

medieval grandeur of Rhodes Town to the whitewashed beauty of Lindos,

the island possesses a remarkable depth that extends well beyond its

reputation as one of Greece’s most popular summer destinations.

Olive groves spread across the interior hills, ancient pathways cut

through forests of pine and cypress, and hidden coves punctuate long

stretches of rocky shoreline washed by startlingly clear water. Along

the island’s southeastern coast, the atmosphere becomes noticeably

calmer, particularly around Lindos, where steep hillsides tumble towards

quiet beaches and the pace of life softens considerably. It is here, near

Kavos Beach and moments from Lindos itself, that Rhodes feels at its

most seductive. The surrounding landscape combines rugged terrain with

broad Mediterranean horizons, while traces of antiquity remain embedded

throughout the area, from ancient stonework to archaeological remnants.

Less frenetic than the island’s northern resorts yet still deeply connected to

Rhodian culture and history, this part of Rhodes offers a more understated

and sophisticated base from which to experience the Dodecanese.

Set on a secluded peninsula overlooking the Mediterranean, AMOH

brings The Luxury Collection to Rhodes for the first time, introducing a

contemporary resort that feels closely connected to its surroundings.

Bordered by an ancient Hellenistic Roman limestone quarry, the property

takes much of its visual identity from the island’s longstanding stone

craftsmanship traditions, interpreted by London based Studio Lost

through textured materials, muted mineral tones and softly sculptural

interiors.

Across 197 rooms and suites, many with private pools and expansive

sea views, the mood is calm, airy and intentionally restrained. Natural

wood, woven detailing and pale stone create spaces that echo the

colours and textures of the surrounding coastline. Elsewhere, an array of

restaurants and bars shape the resort’s culinary identity, ranging from

elevated Greek seafood at Kymata, to Italian classics served alfresco

at Cava di Pietra. Two sandy beaches are within walking distance, while

Elispa, the resort’s wellness sanctuary, incorporates holistic treatments

inspired by natural elements, alongside indoor and outdoor pools, tennis

courts and a substantial fitness centre.

https://the-luxury-collection.marriott.com

RHODES GREECE

43


44


MBAMBA

EVERY SAFARI LOVER CARRIES A VISION OF THE

Okavango Delta long before arriving there for the first time.

Perhaps it is the sight of elephants crossing shallow floodwaters at

dusk, or the distant sound of lions rolling across the plains after sunset.

In northern Botswana, where seasonal waters from Angola spill into the

Kalahari Desert to create one of the world’s largest inland deltas, that

imagined Africa still exists.

The Okavango remains one of the continent’s great wildernesses, an

immense mosaic of reed-fringed channels, palm islands, grasslands and

mopane woodland where wildlife continues to move largely as it always has.

Safari vehicles often travel for hours without encountering another human

presence. And the tempo of each day is usually determined not by schedules,

but by spoor in the dust, shifting light and the movement of animals. For many

travellers, it is this sense of scale and raw natural theatre that makes the

Delta such a compelling destination, whether gliding silently through narrow

waterways, or watching a herd of buffalo disappear into the evening haze

beneath a sky stained copper and violet.

Opened in April 2025 by Natural Selection, Mbamba occupies a private

concession in the northern Okavango adjoining Moremi, Vumbura

and Duba Plains. Named after the Bukakhwe San Bushman word for

“hello”, the camp embraces a classic East African safari aesthetic

interpreted with considerable polish. Twelve spacious canvas tents

stand raised beneath leadwood trees, their interiors combining Persian

rugs, mahogany furnishings and four poster beds with wide verandas

overlooking the bush. Elsewhere, two lounges, a library and a swimming

pool create an atmosphere that feels quietly sociable rather than overtly

theatrical.

What distinguishes Mbamba most, however, is the quality of its

guiding and the richness of its surroundings. Guests encounter large

elephant herds, buffalo, lions and endangered African wild dogs across

a landscape renowned for year round game viewing, while birdlife ranges

from wattled cranes to Pel’s fishing owls. Mokoro excursions and boating

safaris reveal the Delta at a slower pace, and sunset drinks beside

still lagoons often become among stays' most memorable moments.

Beyond the safari experience itself, Mbamba also supports conservation

initiatives focused on human wildlife coexistence, reinforcing Natural

Selection’s long standing commitment to preserving the fragile

ecosystems on which Botswana’s wilderness tourism depends.

https://naturalselection.travel

OKAVANGO DELTA BOTSWANA

45


WIN

A FOUR-NIGHT STAY FOR TWO PEOPLE IN A LUXURIOUS HARBOUR

VIEW ROOM, COMPLETE WITH DAILY BREAKFASTS AND ACCESS

TO THE HOTEL’S POOL TERRACE AND WELLNESS FACILITIES

spend four days at

regent hong kong

on victoria harbour

TO ENTER

Email your contact details to

➤ win@theculturedtraveller.com

The draw will take place on 1 September 2026 and the winner will be notified privately via email. The prize must

be used before 1 September 2027 and is subject to availability when booking. Blackout dates may apply. The

prize is not transferable to another person. The prize is not transferable to another person. Rest assured that

The Cultured Traveller will not share your details with third parties. Multiple entries will be disqualified.

By entering, entrants give their permission to be added to The Cultured Traveller’s subscriber base.


PRIZE

DRAW

SET DRAMATICALLY ON THE EDGE OF

Victoria Harbour in Kowloon, Regent Hong

Kong is a serene urban retreat recently reimagined

by celebrated Hong Kong-born designer Chi Wing Lo.

Connected to the cultural and retail destination K11

MUSEA and moments from the Avenue of Stars, the

legendary hotel balances cinematic harbour views with

an atmosphere of understated sophistication and calm.

Each of the property’s 497 rooms and suites has

been conceived as a ‘Personal Haven’, with soothing

neutral tones, intuitive technology, deep soaking baths

and windowfront daybeds framing mesmerising views

across the harbour and Hong Kong skyline. Thoughtful

service comes courtesy of Regent Experience Agents,

who curate highly personalised stays shaped around

each guest, from bespoke dining reservations to

immersive city experiences.

Dining is equally compelling, with six acclaimed

restaurants and bars including the two Michelinstarred

Lai Ching Heen and the atmospheric Qura Bar,

while Regent Club offers an elevated residential-style

retreat overlooking the water. Following its celebrated

transformation, Regent Hong Kong has earned widespread

international acclaim, including Forbes Travel Guide’s

coveted Five-Star rating

for 2026, reaffirming its place among Asia’s most

distinguished luxury hotels.

https://hongkong.regenthotels.com


LUCERNE

SWITZERLAND

LUCERN

switzerland's most

atmospheric city


COVER

STORY

E

SURROUNDED BY MOUNTAINS

AND ANCHORED BY WATER,

LUCERNE UNFOLDS THROUGH

PICTURESQUE STREETS,

GALLERIES AND SUMMITS IN

A SERIES OF DEEPLY FELT

MOMENTS, AS DEMELZA OXLEY

DISCOVERS A HISTORIC SWISS

CITY WITH A COMMUNITY FEEL

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAILA BOSCO



COVER STORY

LUCERNE

IN A WORLD THAT SEEMS TO RELENTLESSLY

move ever faster, there are still some cities where the

chaos seems to dissolve into something quieter and

more deliberate, like a pause drawn gently across time.

Lucerne is one such city. Here, a vast lake lies like

a sheet of polished glass, calm and mirror-like, gathering the

surrounding mountains into its stillness. Distant snow-capped

peaks are reflected so perfectly that one almost loses sense of

what is real. And there is a palpable lightness in the air. It is a

landscape that immediately captures one's attention and endears

visitors to Lucerne before exploring anything at all.

870 METRES LONG AND ENCIRCLING THE OLD TOWN

with authority, the Musegg Wall is the longest surviving city

wall in Switzerland. Its crenellated stretch is punctuated by nine

distinctive towers, each lending its own character to the skyline,

together forming a rhythmic silhouette above the city and the

waters of Lake Lucerne. Among them, the 15th century Zyt

Tower houses the city’s oldest clock. A quiet testament to its civic

importance, its generous dial was designed in 1442 to be read by

fishermen out on the lake. Visitors can walk the wall and explore

four of its towers, ascending through timbered interiors to vantage

points that reward with sweeping views over Lucerne’s rooftops

and the mountains beyond. From April to November, Musegg is

the perfect place to begin to get a feel for Lucerne and its immense

history. www.museggmauer.ch

ALMOST CERTAINLY ONE OF EUROPE’S PRETTIEST

cities, Lucerne is invariably best discovered on foot. Renowned

for its beautifully decorated façades, particularly around

Hirschenplatz, where painted exteriors add colour and

character to the historic square, the city is also home around

200 fountains, each adding to its unique charm. The work of

Konrad Lux, one of the most ornate fountains is located in the

center of Weinmarkt square.

DATING BACK TO 1333 AND UNDOUBTEDLY THE CITY’S

most famous monument, covered wooden Chapel Bridge

(Kapellbrücke) spans the River Reuss diagonally and is the

oldest surviving truss bridge in the world. The ceilings of its full

170-metre length feature colourful 17th-century paintings,

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

51


and the octagonal water tower at the bridge’s centre is a national

landmark. As you step off the bridge on the opposite side of the

river to the old town, the twin onion-shaped domes of the Jesuit

Church dominate the riverfront. Step inside and the atmosphere

shifts to one of ornate splendour, its interior richly adorned with

rose and gold stucco detailing, and frescoed ceilings drawing

eyes upwards. At the sanctuary’s heart, a dark pink altarpiece

impresses, its marble-like appearance a carefully crafted illusion

in stucco and plaster. https://jesuitenkirche-luzern.ch

STANDING AS A GRAND PORTAL, THE SURVIVING

Neo-Renaissance archway of Lucerne Station is a reminder

of railway's golden age. Designed by Hans Wilhelm Auer in

the 1860s, the station was largely lost to fire in 1971, yet its

monumental entrance remains, rising ornately against the

modern terminus that now sits behind it. The current station

was designed by architects Hans Peter Ammann and Peter

Baumann, while its bold and angular concrete and glass

concourse is the work of renowned Spanish-Swiss architect

52 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


Weinmarkt

Franziskanerplatz

Santiago Calatrava, who was working for Ammann and

Baumann at the time.

JUST A FEW STEPS AWAY, SEEMINGLY RISING FROM

the shore of Lake Lucerne, the KKL Luzern Culture and

Convention Centre is a masterclass in contemporary architectural

poetry, where water, light and sound exist in restrained dialogue.

Designed by French architect Jean Nouvel between 1995 and

2000, the complex is not simply placed beside the lake, but is

gently fragmented by it. Narrow water channels glide between the

buildings, amplifying the interplay of reflections, and carefully

chosen materials meet the shifting surface of the water to create

constantly changing mirages depending on the aspect.

At the heart of the building lies a grand, modern concert hall

which seats 1,898. Here, materiality is both tactile and acoustic:

warm timber surfaces envelop the audience, creating a sense of

closeness while serving a precise sonic purpose. Above, a reflective

canopy hovers like an architectural instrument, projecting

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

53


sound back to the musicians without delay. The hall’s acoustic

brilliance is the work of Russell Johnson, whose design provides

enormous acoustical flexibility by means of a reverberation

chamber with vast movable doors, a height adjustable canopy

and variable sound absorbing finishes. White cubic patterned

walls line the interior, their geometry not merely decorative but

helping to achieve optimum acoustics by diffusing sound evenly

throughout the space, ensuring that every note resonates with

balance and depth. Regally presiding over the hall at one end, a

towering organ built by Swiss company Orgelbau Kuhn anchors

the space in local craftsmanship. Above the auditorium,

concertgoers spend intervals on an upper level beneath the

building’s dramatic cantilevered roof, looking across the lake to

the cityscape on the other side. A vast aviation-like structure,

the glimmering roof is made-up of some 2,000 metallic panels

which catch and scatter light, echoing the water of Lake Lucerne.

www.kkl-luzern.ch/en

On the fourth floor of the same complex, Lucerne Art Museum

has long positioned itself as a platform for emerging voices and

underrepresented perspectives, championing artists working

at the margins, with a particular sensitivity to feminist

discourse and contemporary social themes. Its permanent

collection, comprising some 6,000 works, is not presented as

a fixed canon but as a living archive. Rotated regularly, it is


COVER STORY

LUCERNE

reimagined through evolving curatorial concepts. The current

iteration adopts a compellingly sparse approach, one work,

one room, one artist, allowing each piece the space and

stillness to resonate fully. Alongside this, the most recent

temporary exhibition, the comprehensive retrospective

Maria Pinińska-Bereś: Under the Pink Flag, introduced a

provocative counterpoint, exploring themes of body, gender and

sensuality via sculpture, photography and the extensive use of

tactile materials.

www.kunstmuseumluzern.ch/en

Crowning the centre’s food offerings, one Michelin-starred

restaurant Lucide is helmed by chef Michèle Meier, whose refined,

contemporary cuisine reflects the same precision and elegance

found throughout the KKL. www.lucide-luzern.ch/en

START A NEW DAY BY SETTING OUT FOR THE TOWN

of Kriens, on the edge of the city. There, board a gondola for the

ascent to Mount Pilatus, which tops out at 2,128 metres and

is composed of several peaks overlooking Lucerne. The gentle

glide up begins with a hushed transition from town to alpine

landscape, over dappled forests that cloak the mountain’s lower

slopes. As the valley recedes and the air cools, the widening

horizon reveals a theatrical sweep of Lake Lucerne far below.

Drifting past craggy outcrops and lingering patches of snow,

KKL Luzern Culture and Convention Centre


Lion Monument

seemingly suspended between earth and sky, different views unveil

dramatic panoramas. Then, just before the summit, your eye is

drawn to a delicate interruption in the wildness: the Klimsenkapelle

Chapel, perched improbably on its rocky ledge since 1861 at an

altitude of 1864 metres above sea level. Neo-Gothic and almost

storybook in character, this small Roman Catholic pilgrimage

site offers a quiet counterpoint to the grandeur of Mother Nature

surrounding it, and acts as a place of stillness and reflection for

spiritual travellers and trekkers alike.

For a more dramatic ascent to the top from May to

November, a ride on the Pilatus Railway is an extraordinary

experience. Departing from the village of Alpnachstad, which

sits on Lake Lucerne at the foot of Mount Pilatus, the world's

steepest cogwheel railway reaches gradients of up to 48 percent,

and steadily makes its way up through meadows, forests and

sheer rock faces. Feeling almost vertical at times, the train tilts

sharply as it climbs, heightening the drama of the ride and the

sense of anticipation.

At the top, historic Hotel Pilatus Kulm is an inviting place

to pause and take-in the views, its sprawling terraces offering

sweeping panoramas of alpine peaks. There is a timeless charm

to lingering here, where travellers have gathered for well over

a century, drawn as much by the views as by the sense of quiet

retreat above the clouds. For lunch, few pleasures feel more fitting

than a traditional fondue of gently bubbling Swiss cheeses with

crusty bread and new potatoes. It is a simple ritual, yet one that

seems perfectly attuned to the setting: hearty, convivial and

deeply rooted in the rhythm of the Swiss Alps. https://pilatus.ch

56 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


Lucerne Riviera

Where Sergei Rachmaninoff found inspiration

Rachmaninoff’s Villa Senar

Between lake and mountains lies a landscape

of rare beauty. At Rachmaninoff’s Villa Senar,

step into the world that shaped some of

Rachmaninoff’s most profound works and still

carries the spirit of his time.

weggis-vitznau.ch


BACK ON TERRA FIRMA AND HOUSED WITH A

sensitively converted century-old Swiss National Bank

building in the city centre, the Rosengart Collection offers

an unexpectedly intimate encounter with some of the 20th

century’s most luminous artists, its Classic Modernist and

Impressionist treasures reflecting the eyes of Siegfried

Rosengart and his daughter, Angela, whose portrait was

remarkably painted by Pablo Picasso five times. A testament

to their close personal friendship as much as the Rosengarts’

support of the artist, young Angela's instinct for art revealed

itself while in her teens, when she fell for a small piece by Paul

Klee, known as Little X, for which she paid fifty Swiss Francs,

one month's salary at that time.

The Rosengart particularly offers an extraordinary insight

into the life and work of Picasso, spanning his entire career,

Pilatus Railway

58 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


COVER STORY

LUCERNE

The view from atop Mount Pilatus

from delicate early sketches to bold, late compositions, displayed

across a series of calm, light-filled galleries, his evolving visual

language unfolding with quiet clarity as one walks around,

revealing his restless experimentation with form, line and

colour. Alongside dozens of Picasso’s paintings, the collection

includes rare drawings and sculptural works, each reflecting the

artist’s enduring fascination with the human figure. Yet what

distinguishes the Rosengart is not only its depth and breadth,

but its intimacy, allowing visitors to get extraordinarily close to

Picasso’s work. www.rosengart.ch/en

RESEMBLING AN INVITING HOME, TO ENTER MAX

Chocolatier’s event and design studio at 42 Obergrundstrasse,

ten minutes’ walk from the old town, is to feel the stresses of life

melt away almost instantly. Founded in 2009 by Patrik König,

the artisanal brand's roots are deeply personal, drawing its core

inspiration from his son, Max, who has Down's Syndrome, with

the logo specifically honouring the 21st chromosome. Designed

to make participants slow-down, relax and enjoy every moment,

a two-hour private tasting and bar making session is both a

journey into the world of fine chocolate and a lesson in producing

a personalised chocolate bar. A guided tour through the intimate

chocolate factory, and seeing up-close the live production of

everything from caramelised almonds to hand-decorated seasonal

gifts, is the icing on the couverture cake, as it were, rounding-off a

heavenly afternoon in sweet style. www.maxchocolatier.com/en

A SHORT TAXI RIDE OUT OF THE CENTRE, THE SWISS

Museum of Transport is understandably Switzerland’s most

visited museum. Far from being a static collection, its

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

59


immersive world is designed to be touched, tested and

experienced by kids and adults alike, with a wide variety of

exhibits appealing to all ages.

Throughout the site, the story of mobility unfolds across past

and present: historic locomotives sit alongside sleek modern

trains, while aviation halls trace the evolution of flight from early

aircraft to modern-day drones. The museum also delves into road

transport, offering much to delight car enthusiasts, including a

robotic crane that retrieves rare vehicles from a huge car bookcase,

and presents them to visitors for a fleeting close-up encounter

before returning them to the shelves. Yet it is the museum’s

interactive spirit that truly defines it, invites curiosity at every

turn, and gives life to the mechanics of movement: Visitors can

play the role of a Formula One driver via a realistic simulator;

experience the controlled jolt of a car crash test, and be disoriented

by the gravity-free environment of a simulated space station

courtesy of large, slowly-rotating cube. www.verkehrshaus.ch/en

AFTER THE MUSEUM, TAKE A LEISURELY LAKESIDE

walk back into the center to visit Lucerne’s landmark Lion

Monument. Carved directly into a vast natural rock face above

a tranquil pond in tribute to Swiss soldiers who died in Paris

in 1792, the work was conceived by Danish sculptor Bertel

Thorvaldsen, who created the design in 1819. Over the course of

two years, it painstakingly carved into the sandstone by Lukas

Ahorn of Constance, initially under the supervision of Urs

Pankraz Eggenschwiler. www.loewendenkmal-luzern.ch/en

Within a stone’s throw of the Lion Monument and housed

within a purpose-built rotunda, the 1881 Bourbaki Panorama by

Édouard Castres is an immense 112-metre 19th century circular

Musegg Wall


COVER STORY

LUCERNE

painting, which depicts the internment of 87,000 French soldiers

who fled into Switzerland during the winter of 1871, at the close

of the Franco Prussian War. One of very few surviving panoramic

paintings in Europe, it remains a powerful cultural landmark to

this day, illustrating a important period in Swiss history.

www.bourbakipanorama.ch/en

Chateau-Guetsch

FOR SOME FINE YET UNPRETENTIOUS DINING,

reserve a table at Scala Restaurant at Art Deco Hotel Montana,

where lunch unfolds in a serene, almost conservatory-like

room overlooking Lake Lucerne, lit along one wall by expansive

windows. Presided over by friendly staff for whom nothing is too

much trouble, exquisitely presented seasonal dishes are served

with polished attentiveness, and enjoying a meal at Scala feels

refined, unrushed and inherently Lucernian. www.hotel-montana.ch



COVER STORY

LUCERNE

AFTER LUNCH, HEAD TO THE LUCERNE MUSEUM,

which deftly explores the region’s distinct identity. In one

building, the focus is on the natural world, with displays of

insects and sparkling rock crystals. While across the way,

the narrative deepens, with carefully preserved objects from

the canton of Lucerne presented on industrial metal shelving,

each a fragment of the area’s lived history. Barcodes, rather

than text panels, integrated with tablets, invite a more personal

encounter, allowing visitors to access layered stories in their own

language and lending the experience a sense of modernity.

www.museumluzern.ch

DESPITE ITS PROXIMITY TO SOME OF EUROPE’S MOST

celebrated wine regions, Swiss wine rarely travels, with the vast

majority consumed within the country itself. Widely respected for

her work in Bordeaux at Château La Lagune and in the Rhône

Valley at Domaine Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Caroline Frey has, in

recent years, turned a more focused eye towards Switzerland,

where her family roots lie. Known for her precise, thoughtful

approach to viticulture, and for championing organic and

biodynamic practices, Frey brings a quiet confidence to everything

she produces. Two particular Swiss wines, both produced by Frey,

standout: A bright and expressive Petite Arvine from Valais, Les

Perches 2024, which demonstrates a clarity that feels in keeping

with its Alpine origins. The other, a Gamay, Clos Follatères 2024,

offers something altogether different: supple, composed and finely

judged, with just enough structure to give it shape without feeling

heavy. Together, these two wines speak not only of the country, but

also of intent, both palpably shaped with restraint, balance and a

clear sense of identity. https://carolinefrey.ch

END YOUR VISIT TO LUCERNE AT CHÂTEAU GÜTSCH,

the arrival being part of the occasion, via a short funicular that

deposits guests at this lofty fairytale-like address. Inside, the

American Bar is something of a city institution and channels

Belle Époque romance with a distinctly current finesse. At the

helm is Michael Müller, named Swiss Barkeeper of the Year

2025, whose work brings rigor and finesse to the glass. His

cocktails feel finely judged and urbane, entirely suited to one of

the Lucerne's most cinematic perches. www.chateau-guetsch.ch/en

LUCERNE ULTIMATELY LEAVES ITS MARK NOT

through spectacle, but through accumulation: lake, stone,

mountain, art, craft and memory, each adding weight to the

next. It is a city of rare coherence, where heritage is never

merely decorative and beauty is never incidental. By the time

one departs, what remains is not simply the recollection of

a place, but the sense of having entered a world

arranged with uncommon poise, and understood best

by giving it time. www.luzern.com/en

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

63


COVER STORY

LUCERNE


S TAY

Bürgenstock Funicular

Contemporary Lake View Bay Suite

BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT

BÜRGENSTOCK 17, 6363 OBBÜRGEN, SWITZERLAND

SET HIGH ABOVE LAKE LUCERNE ON A FORESTED RIDGE

in the canton of Nidwalden, Bürgenstock Resort has long

occupied a singular place in Switzerland’s hospitality landscape.

Reached by catamaran from Lucerne and the resort’s own funicular

railway, the ascent itself feels ceremonial, carrying guests away

from the bustle of the city towards a mountaintop enclave where

the air sharpens, the lake glimmers far below, and the Alps stretch

across the horizon in dramatic procession. Yet despite its proximity to

Lucerne, the atmosphere here feels distinctly removed from everyday

life, shaped as much by silence and scale as by service and design.

The story of Bürgenstock began in 1873, when pioneering hoteliers

Franz Josef Bucher and Josef Durrer opened the original Grand Hotel

Bürgenstock. Their ambition was audacious for its time: to create a

refined alpine retreat that combined restorative mountain scenery with

the standards of comfort expected by Europe’s elite. The arrival of the

Bürgenstock funicular in 1888 further cemented the resort’s reputation,

transforming the clifftop hideaway into one of the continent’s most

coveted addresses.

Over the decades, aristocrats, artists and statesmen all gravitated here,

drawn not by ostentation but by the discretion for which Switzerland has

long been admired.

That sense of privacy became central to the resort’s mythology.

Audrey Hepburn married Mel Ferrer in the small chapel within the estate

in 1954, while Sophia Loren and Carlo Ponti famously spent extended

periods residing on the mountain. Charlie Chaplin also sought refuge

here, appreciating the tranquillity afforded by the resort’s expansive

grounds and secluded setting. Even during its most glamorous years

in the mid twentieth century, Bürgenstock cultivated an atmosphere of

understated sophistication rather than spectacle. Its terraces may have

attracted film stars and industrialists, yet the mood remained measured

and composed, more old world sanctuary than social stage.

Following a quieter chapter towards the end of the 20th century, the

resort underwent a massive transformation before reopening in 2017

as a vast contemporary complex comprising several hotels, residences,

restaurants and wellness facilities spread across the ridge. The scale of

the redevelopment was considerable, yet careful attention was paid to

preserving the spirit of the original property. Historic architecture sits

comfortably alongside sleek modern interventions, while a plethora of

floor-to-ceiling glass directs attention back towards the extraordinary

panoramas surrounding the resort.

Today, Bürgenstock occupies an elevated position amongst Europe's

finest resorts: large enough to feel self contained, yet intimate enough

to retain a sense of calm. Guests arrive for many reasons, whether

to spend afternoons in the vast Alpine Spa, walk woodland paths

overlooking the lake, or simply sit quietly as clouds drift across

Lake Lucerne. What lingers most, however, is not any single suite,

restaurant or leisure facility, but the remarkable equilibrium between

nature, history and hospitality that Bürgenstock has maintained for

more than 150 years.

https://burgenstockresort.com

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

65



THE QUEEN SUITE

➤ CASTLE ELVIRA, TREPUZZI, ITALY

suit e envy

puglia’s most theatrical suite

JUST OUTSIDE LECCE, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU CHECKS INTO A REGAL

CASTLE RETREAT, WHERE RESTORED HISTORIC DETAILING, COLLECTED ART, AND

CINEMATIC ITALIAN GLAMOUR COME TOGETHER IN THEATRICAL HARMONY



SUITE ENVY

CASTLE ELVIRA

SOUTHERN PUGLIA POSSESSES A

markedly different rhythm to much

of Italy. The further south one travels

beyond Bari and the region’s larger

commercial centres, the more the

landscape begins to loosen and the atmosphere soften.

Roads narrow between olive groves, dry stone walls

cut through expanses of farmland, and afternoons

seem to slow beneath the peninsula’s southern light.

In Salento, occupying the heel of Italy’s boot, the

ambiance feels increasingly detached from metropolitan

Italy altogether, shaped instead by agriculture,

estates, authentic towns and generations of layered

Mediterranean influence. And as we drive towards my

home for the coming days, I feel myself calming down

soon after leaving Brindisi-Salento Airport. The effect

is almost magical.

LECCE VERY MUCH REMAINS THE REGION’S

cultural and architectural focal point. Often described

as the Florence of the south, the city is celebrated for

its exuberant Baroque architecture, much of it sculpted

from the area’s warm local limestone. Yet while visitors

naturally gravitate towards Lecce’s churches, piazzas

and elaborately ornamented façades, the countryside

surrounding the city reveals another side of Salento

entirely. Historic masserie sit hidden behind high walls

and mature gardens, long private drives disappear into

dense greenery, and palms, citrus trees, and cypress

punctuate the otherwise farming landscape.

IT IS WITHIN THIS SETTING, ALONG VIA ANDRANO

on the outskirts of Lecce, that Castle Elvira appears

beyond electric gates at the end of a stately driveway

surrounded by landscaped grounds. Constructed

during the late 19th century, the property resembles

an aristocratic folly more than a conventional castle, its

romantic silhouette defined by towers, arched terraces,

and decorative architectural flourishes. Since opening

as a boutique hotel in 2022, however, the estate has

become known less for historical grandeur alone and

more for its highly individual decorative identity.

PURCHASED IN 2018 BY BRITISH OWNERS

Steven Riseley and Harvey B-Brown, the castle

underwent an extensive multi year-restoration that

preserved original architectural features while

introducing contemporary artworks, collected furniture,

and modern comforts throughout. Rather than pursuing

restrained minimalism or traditional period restoration,

the couple have created something considerably more

expressive: a property shaped as much by personal taste

and theatrical instinct as by luxury hotel design.

THIS INDIVIDUALITY BECOMES APPARENT

almost immediately inside the castle itself. Public rooms

combine restored historic detailing with contemporary

art, oversized decorative objects, antique furnishings,

and dramatic lighting. Original tiled floors run through

corridors and salons, while tall ceilings preserve the

scale and proportion of the building’s aristocratic

origins. A Bechstein grand piano anchors one reception

room. Elsewhere, sculptures, portraiture, and collectible

twentieth century design pieces appear throughout the

interiors in arrangements that feel lovingly assembled

rather than formally curated.

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

69


YET DESPITE ITS VISUAL RICHNESS AND

plethora of eye-catching treasures, Castle Elvira does

not feel like a museum. On the contrary, a deeply

personal world shaped by art, fantasy and intense

storytelling, checking in feels less like a hotel and more

akin to arriving at the dazzling private residence of

well connected friends, who literally could not be more

welcoming. It is this genuine sense of hospitality that

has earned Castle Elvira a loyal following of repeat

guests around the world. And as one walks around,

with a strong Aperol Spritz in hand, there is apparent

warmth within the decorative layering, alongside

moments of humour, eccentricity, and outright glamour

that distinguish the castle from the increasingly

homogenised aesthetic dominating many contemporary

luxury hotels.

THE ESTATE’S ACCOMMODATION IS

intentionally limited in scale, reinforcing the

atmosphere of a home rather than a hotel. Within the

main castle building, just four principal suites occupy

the upper floors, each possessing its own decorative

identity and spatial arrangement. Among them, The

Queen Suite stands apart as perhaps the clearest

distillation of Castle Elvira’s personality, as well as

being the property’s premier room.

POSITIONED OVERLOOKING THE ESTATE’S

gardens and St. Elia Ridge, the suite consists of a salon,

a bathroom cum dressing room, and a rather special

bedroom. Arranged more like a private apartment

than a hotel suite, original painted cement tiles are

one of its defining features, their geometric patterns

extending throughout the interiors in muted tones of

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SUITE ENVY

CASTLE ELVIRA

terracotta, sage, charcoal, cream, and dusty blue. Far

from functioning merely as preserved historical detail,

the flooring establishes a decorative rhythm for the

connected spaces, and even extends to trompe l'œil

shelf coverings in one of the wardrobes, whimsically

featuring all manner of items that former guests may

have left behind.

IN THE STYLISH SALON, THE ATMOSPHERE IS

overtly cinematic and fashion-oriented. Walls painted

in muted rose tones are framed by restored decorative

plasterwork and high ceilings, while oversized

contemporary artworks introduce graphic contrast

and elevate the scale of the room. A pair of large and

colourful African Grey Parrot works by Adorned &

Adored, named //Lovebirds//, flank a pair of tall glazed

doors through which light floods in all day. On another

wall in the salon, a large-scale dancing girls piece,

created especially for the space, deftly brings together

all the colours in the room. An original Fornasetti lamp

sits on a large vintage distressed cabinet which was

purchased in Ostuni. And ample seating is provided

courtesy of a pair of vintage white leather armchairs

and an oversized velvet sofa in warm apricot tones,

on which I recline and sip tea every morning, while

gazing at the gently swaying palms outside. From the

Juliet balcony, I can see for miles, past the castle's lush

landscaped gardens and swimming pools, towards

verdant countryside and the horizon beyond.

FROM THE SALON, THE LIVING SPACES

surrounding the bathroom – which is semi separated

from the room by a tall muted metallic glazed partition

– are home to a sculptural chaise longue, a dressing

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

71


SUITE ENVY

CASTLE ELVIRA

Madama Butterfly Suite

table (on which I park my laptop), and a beautiful

console positioned under a window, which contains

a kaleidoscope of hand-painted three-dimensional

butterflies. Linking the salon with the bedroom, the

area functions perfectly as a place to get ready, send a

few emails, or select an outfit for dinner. Central to the

room, however, is an enormous Carrara marble bathtub,

weighing almost a ton, equipped with brass industrialesque

fittings by IB Rubinetti. In the bathroom and walkin

rain-shower (which is dramatically concealed within

one of the castle’s towers), large bottles of luxe Sicilian

Ortigia creams and soaps are on hand at every turn.

THE BEDROOM CONTINUES THE DECORATIVE

confidence established in the living spaces. Ochre walls

frame an oversized monochromatic work by Sharon

Pinsker, one of the UK's foremost figurative artists,

which is suspended above a huge leather "Mayfair

Dream" bed designed by Dainelli Studio for Florencebased

Arketipo. Above, the beautiful ceilings are

entirely original, and opposite the bed, a television

is completely concealed behind a glamorous mirror. I

don’t switch it on once, for I am either eating, drinking,

relaxing, or enjoying the glorious company of Riseley

and B-Brown for the duration of my stay.

ELSEWHERE, MODERN INTERVENTIONS REMAIN

intentionally discreet. Integrated climate systems,

underfloor heating and cooling, and contemporary

lighting have all been incorporated without disrupting

the suite’s historic fabric or decorative identity.

WHAT ULTIMATELY DISTINGUISHES THE QUEEN

Suite is not extravagance alone, although visually it

is undeniably striking. Rather, it is the clarity and

consistency of its personality. In an era when many

luxury suites increasingly resemble one another

regardless of geography or setting, The Queen Suite

feels entirely specific to Castle Elvira: theatrical yet

intimate, decorative yet deeply comfortable, fashionable

without formality, and, most importantly, entirely

disinterested in contemporary hospitality minimalism.

The average nightly rate for The Queen Suite at

Castle Elvira is EUR 1,100 inclusive of breakfast

and taxes.

https://castleelvira.com

72 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026

https:// www.


ELEGANCE IN MOVEMENT SINCE 1929

EXPLORE THE DESTINATION AT WWW.PRINCEDEGALLESPARIS.COM


PRAGUE

CZECHIA

PRAGUE

a bohemian capital

moving with time


CITY

FOCUS

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

RETURNS TO THE CZECH

CAPITAL TO EXPLORE A CITY

WHERE GOTHIC, RENAISSANCE

AND BAROQUE GRANDEUR

COEXIST WITH CONTEMPORARY

ART, EVOLVING GASTRONOMY

AND A QUIETLY MODERNISING

CULTURAL PULSE


FEW EUROPEAN CAPITALS

present such an intact and coherent

architectural narrative as Prague.

Rising in a succession of spires, domes

and towers above the Vltava, the Czech capital

is a veritable living archive of Gothic ambition,

Renaissance refinement and Baroque flourish. And

unlike many of its continental counterparts, the

city escaped widespread destruction during the

twentieth century. As a result, Prague's historic core

remains remarkably preserved. Streets, squares and

ecclesiastical buildings exist not as fragments but

as a continuous and legible whole, offering a rare

sense of immersion in a past that has not been at all

reconstructed, but rather well maintained.

YET BEYOND THIS VISUAL RICHNESS LIES

a more nuanced question. In an era where expectations

have evolved and travellers increasingly seek

engagement beyond façades and monuments, Prague

must also be considered through a contemporary lens.

Its enduring beauty is unquestioned. But whether its

artistic and culinary offerings have matured with equal

confidence is another question entirely.

SET AT THE GEOGRAPHICAL CENTRE OF

Europe, the Czech Republic shares borders with

Germany, Austria, Poland and Slovakia, placing

Prague within easy reach of several major cities. Rail

connections from Vienna, Munich and Berlin arrive

with efficiency, depositing travellers directly into the

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CITY FOCUS

PRAGUE

capital’s compact centre. From here, the city unfolds

with ease, its scale encouraging exploration on foot.

Meanwhile, its layout, shaped over centuries, feels

both intuitive and layered.

THE VLTAVA DEFINES PRAGUE’S GEOGRAPHY

and, in many respects, its character. Flowing from

south to north, the river divides the city into two

distinct yet complementary halves. To the west lies

Malá Strana, a district of palaces, gardens and

embassies, pressed gently between the riverbank and

the rising ground of Hradčany. To the east, the Old

Town and New Town extend outward in a network of

squares and thoroughfares where commerce, culture

and daily life converge.

MALÁ STRANA IS WITHOUT DOUBT ONE

of the city's most atmospheric quarters. Cobbled

streets curve past Baroque façades, revealing quiet

courtyards and enclosed gardens that offer moments

of calm away from the steady movement of visitors. It

is here that Prague feels at its most intimate, where

the scale of the architecture invites closer attention,

and where the rhythm of daily life continues

alongside the presence of those passing through.

Above, Prague Castle asserts its presence over the

city with majestic authority.

ESTABLISHED IN THE NINTH CENTURY BY

Prince Bořivoj of the Přemyslid dynasty and built

in stages over centuries, Prague Castle is widely

regarded as the largest ancient castle complex in

the world and encompasses palaces, churches, halls

and gardens arranged across an expansive hilltop

site. Yet while its scale is indeed considerable, its

organisation allows for a measured exploration, with

each part contributing to a broader understanding of

the city’s historical trajectory.

Malá Strana


CITY FOCUS

PRAGUE

Žižkov

Television

Tower

Charles Bridge

TAKING NEARLY 600 YEARS TO COMPLETE,

St. Vitus Cathedral essentially defines the castle

complex. Begun in 1344 under the patronage of

Charles IV and shaped in part by master builder Petr

Parléř, its intricate stonework and soaring vaults

remain among the most accomplished expressions

of Gothic design in Central Europe. Light filters

through stained glass windows with a clarity that

enhances the verticality of the space, drawing the

eye upward and reinforcing the cathedral’s sense of

architectural ambition. katedralasvatehovita.cz

St. Vitus Cathedral

NEARBY, THE OLD ROYAL PALACE OFFERS

insight into the political life of the Bohemian

kingdom, while St. George’s Basilica provides a

quieter counterpoint, its Romanesque origins evident

in its solidity and form. Golden Lane, with its modest

houses, introduces a more intimate scale, offering a

glimpse into the lives of those who once inhabited the

castle’s margins. https://hrad.cz/en/prague-castle-for-visitors

FROM THE CASTLE'S ELEVATED TERRACES,

the city reveals itself in spectacular fashion below,

the Vltava's surface punctuated by a sequence of

bridges, each contributing to the city’s visual rhythm.

In the distance, the Žižkov Television Tower rises

above the skyline, a reminder of a more recent

chapter in Prague’s architectural narrative. Standing

at 216 metres, it remains the tallest structure in

the city, and even contains a hotel suite for a lofty

overnight stay with a difference https://towerpark.cz

DESCENDING FROM THE CASTLE, THE ROUTE

leads naturally towards historic Charles Bridge, the

city’s world-famous crossing. Commissioned by King

Charles IV in 1357, completed in the early 15th century,

and the only means to traverse the river for over 400

years, it was a vital pathway for Bohemian kings during

their coronation processions. Today the bridge connects

Malá Strana with the Old Town, its length lined with

dozens of ornate statues depicting saints and religious

figures. Despite the near constant presence of visitors,

there are moments in the very early morning when the

bridge regains a sense of stillness, allowing its immense

presence to shine. Visit soon after sunrise, or prepare

for crowds of people.

78 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


one more night

SOME MOMENTS ARE TOO GOOD TO END

Discover Mandarin Oriental, Prague, where historic charm meets contemporary comfort. Nestled in the

heart of the Golden City, enjoy tranquil surroundings, refined hospitality, and an unforgettable stay,

with a complimentary night on us that gives you more time to unwind and explore at your own pace.

Mandarin Oriental, Prague

Nebovidská 459/1, Malá Strana, 118 00 Prague, Czech Republic, +420 233 088 888, moprg-reservations@mohg.com


CITY FOCUS

PRAGUE

Church of Our Lady before Týn

Astronomical clock

ONCE CROSSED INTO THE OLD TOWN, PRAGUE

palpably shifts in character. The streets widen,

the scale increases, and the density of activity

becomes more apparent. Old Town Square forms

the historical and symbolic centre, enclosed by

buildings that span multiple architectural periods.

Among them, the Church of Our Lady before Týn

rises with twin towers that have long defined the

city’s skyline, their dark silhouettes visible from

across Prague.

The Old Town Hall houses the astronomical clock,

first installed in 1410 and widely regarded as one

of the oldest working clocks of its kind. While the

hourly display continues to attract attention, the

true significance lies in its intricate mechanism

and its representation of medieval understandings

of time and astronomy.

A short distance away, the Powder Tower stands

as one of the original gateways to the Old Town.

Constructed in the 15th century, it once formed part

of the royal route leading to Prague Castle, along

which monarchs processed en route to being crowned.

Today, it marks the transition between the historic

centre and the broader city beyond, serving as a

reminder of Prague’s ceremonial past.

BEYOND ITS ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE, A

more contemporary side of Prague is evident through

its evolving cultural landscape, especially in Holešovice.

Located to the north of the centre, Holešovice is

undergoing multi-billion crown municipal investments,

transforming the neighbourhood into a fully

integrated art, theatre and leisure hotspot. Former

industrial spaces have been repurposed into galleries,

performance venues and studios, creating an

environment that reflects a forward-looking

creative energy.

80 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


AT THE CENTRE OF THIS TRANSFORMATION

is DOX Centre for Contemporary Art, known for its

ambitious exhibitions and interdisciplinary approach.

Its programme engages with social and political

themes via a range of media, while the building itself

incorporates striking architectural interventions that

signal the district’s progressive outlook. www.dox.cz

PRAGUE’S CULINARY SCENE IS EVOLVING

in parallel. Traditional Czech cuisine, long defined

by hearty dishes and robust flavours, is now

complemented by a more considered approach that

balances heritage with contemporary techniques.

Across the city, menus increasingly reflect seasonal

produce, careful sourcing and refined presentation.

Within the castle district, Kuchyň offers a

contemporary interpretation of Czech cooking, served

in a setting that connects directly to the city’s history.

https://kuchyn.ambi.cz/en

Eska, in the revitalised Karlín district, combines

Czech culinary traditions with modern baking,

fermentation and open fire cooking, creating

ingredients led dishes that feel distinctly local while

remaining unmistakably contemporary in execution

https://eska.ambi.cz/en

And at Michelin starred Field, seasonal

Czech produce is transformed into precise and

highly detailed tasting menus that place regional

ingredients within a modern fine dining context

shaped by technique, balance and understated

creativity. www.fieldrestaurant.cz/en

Powder Tower

MANDARIN

ORIENTAL

PRAGUE

MALÁ STRANA, PRAGUE, CZECHIA

OCCUPYING A FORMER DOMINICAN MONASTERY IN THE HEART OF

the Czech capital’s atmospheric Malá Strana quarter, Mandarin

Oriental Prague is among the city’s most quietly distinguished

hospitality addresses. Hidden behind a modest Baroque façade

on a cobbled lane, the hotel feels deeply connected to the city’s

architectural and cultural fabric, while remaining completely removed

from the madding crowds that frequent nearby Charles Bridge. And

while the hotel's setting alone is compelling, it is the way the property

preserves and inhabits its centuries old structure that leaves the

stronger impression.

The building’s layered history deftly remains visible throughout

the hotel. Gothic foundations, Renaissance detailing and Baroque

flourishes coexist with plush interiors that avoid unnecessary

theatricality. Original vaulted ceilings, exposed beams and irregular

layouts have been carefully retained, allowing each of the hotel’s 99

rooms and suites to feel individual rather than formulaic. Some enjoy

views of Prague Castle and St. Nicholas Church, while others overlook

the streets and rooftops of Malá Strana, or face tranquil gardens

and monastery courtyards that lend the property an almost retreat

like feel. Throughout, despite its central location, the sense of calm is

remarkable, and welcome.

This understated approach continues in the hotel’s public spaces.

Corridors trace the route of former monastic passageways, while

beneath the spa, glass flooring reveals remnants of the long-vanished

Church of St. Mary Magdalene, uncovered during the building’s

restoration. The spa itself, set within a former Renaissance chapel,

remains one of Prague’s most atmospheric wellness settings.

Dining is centred around Monastiq, where executive chef Michal

Horváth reinterprets Czech cuisine with a lighter, seasonal sensibility.

Elsewhere, the adjoining bar and lounge evolves gently throughout the

day, shifting from a relaxed daytime meeting spot into a sophisticated

evening venue.

In a city celebrated for grandeur and spectacle, Mandarin Oriental

Prague instead offers discretion, stillness and a uniquely intimate

connection to Prague’s historic past.

www.mandarinoriental.com/en/prague


The Dancing House

EQUALLY WELCOME IS THE EMERGENCE OF

a more discerning café and wine bar culture. Across

both sides of the river, smaller venues serve carefully

prepared coffee and thoughtfully selected wines,

often in intimate settings that favour atmosphere

over scale. At EMA espresso bar, speciality coffee

and understated Scandinavian influenced interiors

have helped cultivate a loyal local following. www.

emaespressobar.cz/en Meanwhile, nearby La Cave d’Adrien

has become known for its carefully chosen French wines

and quietly cosmopolitan atmosphere. www.instagram.

com/lacavedadrien And a short walk away, Bokovka offers

a more intimate setting still, with a strong emphasis

on natural and low intervention wines served alongside

top quality Amaso charcuterie within characterful

surrounds, tucked behind old streets. www.bokovka.com/

en Together, such venues contribute to a broader sense

that Prague is adapting to the expectations of a wellheeled

audience while retaining its distinct character.

NEARBY, THE CHURCH OF SAINT NICHOLAS

stands as one of Prague’s most accomplished

Baroque interiors. Completed over the course of the

18th century, its vast dome and richly decorated

surfaces create a space of remarkable theatricality.

Frescoes, stucco work and a grand organ combine to

produce an environment that feels both opulent and

cohesive, reflecting the ambitions of its creators.

www.stnicholas.cz/en

AS PRAGUE CONTINUES TO EVOLVE, MOMENTS

of contemporary expression appear alongside its

historic fabric. One of the first examples was The

Dancing House, completed in 1996 and designed by

IN MALÁ STRANA, VOJAN GARDENS OFFER

a moment of quiet reflection. Among the oldest

green spaces in the city, their origins lie in a former

monastery garden, and today they provide a welcome

contrast to the surrounding streets. Mature trees and

open lawns lend the gardens a sense of calm that feels

removed from the pace of the city beyond their walls.

Field

82 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


CITY FOCUS

PRAGUE

IVETA KOPICOVAC COURTESY OF DOX

DOX

Vlado Milunić in collaboration with Frank Gehry. Its

sculptural form introduces a sense of movement along

the riverbank, standing in deliberate contrast to the

surrounding architecture. And from its upper levels,

views extend across the Vltava towards the castle,

reinforcing the relationship between past and present

that defines the city. www.dancinghouse.cz/en

CRAFT REMAINS AN IMPORTANT ELEMENT

of Prague’s cultural identity. Bohemian crystal

continues to be produced and presented with a level

of precision that reflects centuries of expertise,

demonstrating both endurance and adaptation

within the craft.

Long established Czech glassmakers such

as Rückl, whose contemporary collections are

created in collaboration with modern designers

while still cut by hand in the company’s Nižbor

workshop, illustrate how traditional techniques are

being reinterpreted for a younger and more design

conscious audience. https://ruckl.com/en

Equally, Lasvit has helped reposition Bohemian

glass within an international contemporary context,

through ambitious architectural installations

and sculptural lighting commissions that appear

in hotels, galleries and private residences worldwide.

www.lasvit.com

Together, Rückl and Lasvit reflect a wider

shift within the Czech crystal industry

towards innovation, artistic collaboration and

contemporary relevance, without abandoning the

craftsmanship upon which its reputation was built.

AFTER VISITING A VARIETY OF CULTURAL

institutions, medieval landmarks and restaurants,

it is when I return to the streets that it becomes

clear how Prague’s character is shaped as much

by its public spaces as by its architecture, old

and new alike. Squares continue to function as

natural points of convergence, while narrower

lanes and covered passageways encourage slower

exploration, often leading unexpectedly into quiet

courtyards or overlooked architectural gems.

Much like Vienna, Prague is a city that rewards

patience and observation rather than a whistlestop

visit. And it is a city where the atmosphere

changes greatly with the seasons. In winter,

Prague feels more introspective, its stone façades

and riverbanks taking on a quieter, almost

cinematic quality. Warmer months alter the

rhythm entirely, drawing people outdoors onto

terraces, embankments and café lined piazzas,

lending the city a much greater sense of movement

and sociability.

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

83


CITY FOCUS

PRAGUE

VIEWED AS THE SUN SETS OVER THE CITY,

from Clouds restaurant, 66 metres up the Žižkov

Television Tower, the coherence of Prague’s

architectural landscape becomes even more striking,

and the skyline is shaped not by isolated landmarks,

but by continuity: a dense arrangement of spires,

domes and towers extending across the horizon with

a balance that feels remarkably intact. It is perhaps

here, at dusk, that Prague’s relationship between

past and present feels most convincing. Historic

structures stand firm, yet contemporary interventions

appear with increasing confidence and restraint.

Rather than competing with the city’s inherited

beauty, they suggest a capital that continues to evolve

carefully, conscious that its greatest strength lies

not only in preservation, but in the measured way it

adapts to the present.

PRAGUE DOES NOT SEEK TO COMPETE WITH

more overtly modern capitals. Instead, it refines

what it already possesses, allowing change to occur

in a measured and considered way. For seasoned

cultured travellers, this offers a form of engagement

that is both immediate and enduring. Prague can be

appreciated for its historical depth, yet it also invites

exploration beyond its most recognisable landmarks. In

doing so, it reveals a capital that remains firmly grounded

in its heritage, while quietly accommodating the

expectations of those of us who arrive with a more

discerning perspective. https://prague.eu/en

Charles Bridge


85


GLASGOW

SCOTLAND

scotland’s

cultural

powerhouse

GLASG

SCOTLAND’S LARGEST CITY REVEALS ITSELF TO NIALL PALMER THROUGH

ARCHITECTURE, ARTISTRY, MUSIC, DESIGN AND A CULTURAL CONFIDENCE

SHAPED BY REINVENTION, WHERE HISTORIC INDUSTRY HAS GIVEN WAY TO

ONE OF BRITAIN’S MOST DISTINCTIVE URBAN IDENTITIES


DESTINATION

SPOTLIGHT

OW

87


THERE IS A PARTICULAR QUALITY OF LIGHT

that settles over Glasgow on a summer evening,

one that lingers well beyond expectation and

stretches the day into something generous and

expansive. It softens sandstone façades, catches in the broad curve

of the River Clyde, and glances off windows, cornices and church

spires in a way that lends the city an unexpected grace. At such

moments, Glasgow feels less like the industrial powerhouse it once

was and more like a place that has grown fully into its reinvention.

THAT REINVENTION IS CENTRAL TO ANY

understanding of the city. For much of the 19th and 20th

centuries, Glasgow’s identity was bound to shipbuilding,

engineering, tobacco, trade and heavy industry, its fortunes

rising and falling with the yards and workshops that lined the

Clyde. The physical legacy of that era remains embedded in the

urban fabric, visible in the scale of its streets, the muscularity

of its public buildings and the pragmatic order of its grid.

Yet Glasgow today is not defined by decline or nostalgia. It

is shaped by the confidence with which it has transformed

industry into culture, labour into creativity and civic pride into

one of Britain’s most compelling city experiences.

THE SHIFT DID NOT HAPPEN OVERNIGHT. RECOGNITION

as European City of Culture in 1990 marked a decisive

moment, signalling both intent and possibility. The 2014

Commonwealth Games brought further attention and

investment, particularly along the East End and the Clyde. Yet

the most persuasive evidence of Glasgow’s renewal lies not in a

single event, but in the texture of the city itself. Old warehouses

have become cultural spaces, former industrial districts have

found new rhythm, and neighbourhoods once overlooked now

form part of a wider urban story.

ARCHITECTURE OFFERS PERHAPS THE CLEAREST

expression of this layered identity. In the city centre, Glasgow

City Chambers presides over George Square with ceremonial

grandeur, its late Victorian confidence still undiminished.

Opened in 1888 and designed by William Young, it speaks

of a city that once saw itself as the second city of the British

Empire. Public tours are conducted twice per day at 10.30am

and 2.30pm Monday through Friday.

www.glasgow.gov.uk/article/1066/City-Chambers-Tour

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SPOTLIGHT

GLASGOW

Queens Park


University of Glasgow

AROUND THE CITY CHAMBERS, STREETS RADIATE

in measured lines, revealing carved stone, decorative

ironwork, elaborate pediments and façades that reward

regular upward glances. Glasgow is a city best read

vertically as well as horizontally, for its richest details often

sit way above street level. To the east, the city’s deeper

history gathers around Glasgow Cathedral. Built in the

1100s and dedicated to St Kentigern, better known as St

Mungo, it remains the most complete medieval cathedral

on the Scottish mainland and one of the great survivals

of pre Reformation Scotland. Its dark stone and soaring

Gothic interior give the surrounding precinct an atmosphere

quite unlike anywhere else in the city. Within view of the

Cathedral at the top of Castle Street stands Provand’s

Lordship, built in 1471 and recognised as Glasgow’s oldest

house, a rare domestic survivor from medieval times.

https://glasgowcathedral.org


SPOTLIGHT

GLASGOW

BEHIND THE CATHEDRAL RISES THE NECROPOLIS,

Glasgow’s Victorian city of the dead, reached via the Bridge

of Sighs and arranged across a hill that offers one of the most

rewarding views back towards the city. Around 50,000 people

are buried here, though far fewer are named on monuments.

Wandering among its obelisks, angels and weathered tombs,

one encounters Glasgow’s mercantile, civic and professional

past in concentrated form. It is a place of melancholy, certainly,

but also of perspective. The city unfolds below, alive and

restless, while above it the names of those who shaped its rise

remain carved into stone. If you have the time, an informal

walking tour of the Necropolis is a fascinating way to spend a

few hours. www.glasgownecropolis.org

FURTHER WEST, THE ARCHITECTURAL NARRATIVE

shifts in tone yet retains its sense of drama. Kelvingrove Art

Gallery and Museum rises from its parkland setting with

theatrical force, its red sandstone exterior and Spanish

Baroque detail giving way to interiors that feel both grand

and accessible. Within its galleries, fine art, natural history,

armour, design and local memory coexist in a manner that

feels distinctly Glaswegian. The museum does not separate

the sublime from the eccentric. It allows both to stand side

by side. Salvador Dalí’s Christ of Saint John of the Cross

remains its most magnetic work, a painting of startling

stillness and spiritual intensity, held in Glasgow’s collection

since the early 1950s and now regarded as one of the city’s

great cultural treasures.

Glasgow Cathedral

City Chambers


SPOTLIGHT

GLASGOW

A SHORT DISTANCE AWAY, THE UNIVERSITY OF

Glasgow lends the West End one of its most recognisable

silhouettes. Designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott and

built in the Gothic Revival style, its towers and cloisters

dominate the hill above Kelvingrove Park. The university’s

presence gives this part of the city a scholarly, slightly

bohemian texture, particularly around Byres Road and

Ashton Lane, where independent restaurants, bars and

bookshops create an atmosphere quite distinct from the

commercial energy of the centre. On clear evenings, when

light catches the university’s stone and the lanes begin to fill,

the West End offers Glasgow at its most atmospheric.

NO CONSIDERATION OF THE CITY’S DESIGN IDENTITY

can avoid Charles Rennie Mackintosh. His presence is felt not

through flamboyance, but through a quieter and more exacting

language of line, proportion and craft. The Glasgow School of

Art’s Mackintosh Building, designed in phases between 1896

and 1909, remains one of the city’s most important architectural

works, even after the devastating fires of 2014 and 2018. Its

current condition is a painful reminder that heritage is never

guaranteed. Yet Mackintosh’s wider legacy endures through

surviving sites, interiors, drawings and the imagination of

the city itself, not least through the restored Mackintosh at

the Willow tearooms on Sauchiehall Street, where design,

hospitality and social history continue to meet.

92 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026

Pollok House


Great stories

begin in Glasgow

From dawn to dusk and into the night, there

are a huge range of things to do in Glasgow.

Explore Glasgow’s music scene on a city

walking tour, or uncover countless treasures

inside its fantastic museums and art galleries.

Search VisitScotland to find out more


SOME OLDER REFERENCES TO GLASGOW’S DESIGN

trail require caution today. The Lighthouse, once Scotland’s

Centre for Design and Architecture and housed in Mackintosh’s

former Glasgow Herald building, remains closed at present.

That closure, rather than diminishing Mackintosh’s

importance, underlines the fragility of cultural stewardship in a

city whose greatest buildings are living responsibilities as much

as visitor attractions.

CONTEMPORARY ARCHITECTURE HAS ALSO LEFT A

strong imprint. On the Clyde, Zaha Hadid’s Riverside Museum

introduced a sharper, more fluid presence when it opened

in 2011, its folded roofline suggesting movement, water and

industrial memory. Inside, Glasgow’s transport, engineering

and shipbuilding histories are explored through trams,

locomotives, cars, bicycles and models that draw families as

readily as design enthusiasts. Outside, the tall ship Glenlee

sits at the water’s edge, anchoring the museum to the maritime

story of the Clyde.

THE RIVER ITSELF IS ESSENTIAL TO GLASGOW’S

identity. Once the artery of industrial might, it now offers

a slower, more reflective way to understand the city. Paths

run beside the water, linking cultural institutions, bridges and

neighbourhoods in a sequence that reveals Glasgow’s changing

face. The Clyde is no longer crowded with the shipyards that made

it famous, but the memory of that world remains present in the

scale of the banks and the openness of the views. It is a place to

walk rather than rush, particularly in the long light of summer.

SOUTH OF THE CENTRE, POLLOK COUNTRY PARK

provides another kind of pause. Its acres of woodland and

open ground hold the Burrell Collection, one of Glasgow’s most

important cultural assets. Reopened in March 2022 after a

major refurbishment and redisplay, the museum now presents

more of Sir William Burrell’s collection than ever before.

Medieval art, Chinese ceramics, Islamic objects, stained glass,

tapestries and paintings sit within a building that allows

the surrounding trees to become part of the experience. It is

worth allowing proper time here. The pleasure lies not only in

individual objects, but in the way the collection moves across

periods and cultures without losing intimacy.

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SPOTLIGHT

GLASGOW

Kelvingrove Park


SPOTLIGHT

GLASGOW

A REFLECTION OF THE STRENGTH AND CONFIDENCE

of Glasgow’s contemporary art scene, the city has, over recent

decades, produced a remarkable number of Turner Prize

winners. Among them is Douglas Gordon, awarded the prize in

1996 for his psychologically charged video works, including 24

Hour Psycho, which reimagined Hitchcock’s film in a slowed,

meditative form. Martin Boyce followed in 2011, recognised

for his sculptural installations that draw on modernist

design and urban space, while Charlotte Prodger received the

award in 2018 for her intimate, diaristic moving image work.

Together, they form part of a wider lineage that has positioned

Glasgow as one of the most influential centres for contemporary

art in Britain.

GLASGOW’S CULTURAL LIFE IS NOT CONFINED TO

art. In 2008, Glasgow became the first UK city to be designated

a UNESCO City of Music, formal recognition of a scene that

had long operated with quiet authority and remarkable breadth.

Music here is not confined to a handful of major venues, but

embedded within the fabric of the city itself, from grand stages

such as the Royal Concert Hall to smaller, characterful spaces

where emerging talent is given room to develop. Genres overlap

and coexist with ease, from classical and Celtic traditions

to indie, electronic and experimental sound, creating a

96


landscape that feels both inclusive and constantly evolving.

Festivals such as Celtic Connections, held each winter, draw

artists and audiences from across the world, while year-round

programming ensures that the city’s musical life rarely pauses.

What distinguishes Glasgow is not simply the quality of what

is performed, but the sense that music remains a lived, shared

experience, woven into everyday life rather than reserved for

occasion. glasgowcityofmusic.com

THEATRE HAS SIMILAR FORCE. THE CITIZENS

Theatre, founded in its modern form in 1943 and long

associated with the Gorbals, has been one of Scotland’s

most significant producing theatres. Following a major


SPOTLIGHT

GLASGOW

The Finnieston Crane on the River Clyde


redevelopment, it reopened in 2025, restoring an important

cultural address to the city. Its return matters not merely as

a building project, but as a renewal of Glasgow’s tradition of

serious, socially engaged performance. Elsewhere, Sharmanka

Kinetic Theatre offers something more unusual: carved figures

and mechanical sculptures moving through sequences of sound

and light. It is strange, touching and memorable, the sort of

place seasoned travellers quietly recommend because it could

belong almost nowhere else.

NEIGHBOURHOODS GIVE GLASGOW MUCH OF ITS

modern rhythm. The Merchant City, once tied to trade and

wealth, has become a district of restaurants, galleries and

handsome streets where the past is always visible in the

architecture. Finnieston, formerly industrial in character, has

evolved into one of the city’s most engaging areas for food and

drink, particularly along and around Argyle Street. The West

End offers a more relaxed counterpoint, with Ashton Lane

providing a picturesque, cobbled pocket of bars and restaurants,

best encountered when the evening is already underway.

EATING IN GLASGOW HAS CHANGED CONSIDERABLY

since the older version of this article was written. It is no longer

accurate to describe the city as lacking Michelin recognition.

Cail Bruich and Unalome both hold one star in the MICHELIN

Guide, marking confidence in Glasgow’s dining scene. Yet the

appeal of eating here extends beyond awards. The city’s best

kitchens draw on Scottish produce with increasing clarity, from

seafood and game to seasonal vegetables and dairy, while more

casual venues maintain the generosity and lack of pretence that

suit Glasgow well.

WHISKY REMAINS AN INHERENT PART OF SOCIALISING,

though the best way to approach it today is not through

performance, but patience. A traditional pub with a serious

back bar often better informs a visitor than a polished

cocktail lounge. With over 1,000 whiskies, family run The

Pot Still remains a classic address for those wanting breadth

and knowledge, while bars in the West End offer a gentler

introduction to the ritual of the dram. The seasoned traveller

should resist over planning here. In Glasgow, the best evenings

99


SPOTLIGHT

GLASGOW

often begin with a single intended stop and gather momentum

from conversation. https://thepotstill.co.uk

FOR ALL ITS CULTURAL CONFIDENCE, GLASGOW IS

also a practical city to navigate. The centre is walkable, though

its slopes can surprise. The Subway, affectionately known as the

Clockwork Orange, is useful for moving between the city centre

and West End, completing its circular route of fifteen stations

in around 24 minutes. Taxis and trains fill in the gaps, but

many of Glasgow’s pleasures appear on foot: street art glimpsed

at the end of a lane; an endearing café behind an unappealing

frontage, or a sudden dramatic view towards a tower or hill.

RETAIL HERE HAS CHARACTER WHEN IT MOVES

away from the predictable. Buchanan Street supplies the

familiar polish of a major shopping city, while nearby arcades

and side streets reward slower browsing. Glasgow has long

had a strong relationship with vintage clothing, records and

independent design, and its shops often reveal the city’s instinct

for individuality. Monorail Music remains a particularly good

stop for anyone interested in the city’s musical intelligence, not

simply as a place to buy vinyl, but as a reminder that Glasgow’s

creative life is rooted in communities as much as institutions. >

https://monorailmusic.com

GLASGOW IS NOT TO BE ADMIRED FROM A DISTANCE.

It is a city that rewards engagement and is hence best

understood by walking its streets, entering its public buildings,

listening to its music, following the Clyde and allowing

neighbourhoods to reveal themselves without haste. What

ultimately distinguishes Glasgow is not a single landmark,

restaurant or museum, but the coherence of its contradictions.

Grand and informal, handsome and raw edged, historically

weighty yet fashionably quick on its feet, Glasgow's identity has

been shaped with grit, warmth, momentum and unmistakable

conviction, making it the perfect UK destination for a

culture-rich weekend break.

www.visitglasgow.com

100

The Clyde Arc


NEW MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART

NEW YORK, UNITED STATES

ART

CULTURE

new york's new museum

enters a new era

JASON O'REAR

AT NEW YORK’S NEW MUSEUM, A MAJOR EXPANSION AND A THOUGHT-

PROVOKING REOPENING EXHIBITION REFRAME THE RELATIONSHIP

BETWEEN ART, ARCHITECTURE AND HUMAN IDENTITY, AS MONIKA TRAMŚ

EXPLORES AN INSTITUTION DEFINED BY EVOLUTION



ART CULTURE

NEW MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART

JASON KEEN

JASON O'REAR

IN A CITY WHERE MAJOR MUSEUMS

can overwhelm through sheer scale or

reputation, the New Museum of Contemporary

Art offers something rarer: a genuine sense of

artistic discovery.

Set on the Bowery in Lower Manhattan, it has

long been among New York’s most forward thinking

cultural institutions, yet its recent reopening signals

an altogether new chapter. Following a significant

expansion by OMA alongside its landmark original

2007 building by SANAA, the museum now feels

less like a single destination and more like a living

cultural organism, responsive to the rhythms of

the city around it. It is a shift that mirrors broader

changes in how institutions engage with their

audiences, prioritising openness, exchange and

dialogue over singular authority.

FOR BEING NOT DEFINED BY STATIC

masterpieces or predictable rituals, the New Museum

is an essential stop for travellers shaping a Manhattan

itinerary around culture, design and contemporary

life. A place where art, architecture and public life

intersect with an immediacy that feels distinctly New

York, the experience begins well before one crosses

the threshold, since the surrounding streets, long

associated with artistic experimentation, frame the

visit with a sense of anticipation.

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

103


THE MUSEUM'S ORIGINAL BUILDING REMAINS

one of New York's most recognisable museum

structures. Rising as a stack of subtly offset white

volumes wrapped in a delicate metal mesh, it appears at

once sculptural and atmospheric, its character shifting

with light and weather. OMA's new extension introduces

a luminous counterpart in glass and metal, more

open in expression yet carefully attuned to the earlier

structure. Rather than competing, the two stand in

quiet dialogue, distinct in personality yet inseparable as

a pair. Together, they establish a composed yet dynamic

presence within a neighbourhood that continues to

evolve. And this conversation is immediately legible

from the street, courtesy of Tschabalala Self’s largescale

sculpture, Art Lovers.

DEPICTING AN EMBRACING COUPLE,

installed on the museum’s façade and visible from

the Bowery and Prince Street, the piece brings a

note of intimacy and warmth to the urban exterior.

Acting as both an invitation and a statement, the

work signals the museum’s continued commitment

to artists who engage directly with contemporary

narratives of identity and representation.

104 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


BACK AND BIGGER

ON THE BOWERY

Photo: Jason O’Rear

235 Bowery, NYC

newmuseum.org


ART CULTURE

NEW MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART

JASON O'REAR

INSIDE, VISITORS ARE DRAWN BY EXHIBITS

that feel less like conventional displays and more

like intellectual journeys, with the current offering

spanning more than a century of artistic thought,

placing contemporary works alongside key figures

of the early avant garde. This juxtaposition is

deliberate and reveals a crucial insight: that

today’s most radical artistic expressions are

deeply rooted in the experimental breakthroughs

of twentieth century Europe, from Dada and

Surrealism to Constructivism, Bauhaus design,

post war figuration and utopian architectural

thinking. Figures such as Francis Bacon, Salvador

Dalí and Hannah Höch appear not as distant

historical icons, but as active participants in an

ongoing exploration of the human condition, their

ideas continuing to resonate with striking clarity.

THE MUSEUM'S REOPENING EXHIBITION,

New Humans: Memories of the Future, brings

together more than two hundred artists, writers,

architects, scientists and filmmakers from over

fifty countries. It considers how technological

and social upheavals have shaped shifting ideas

of what it means to be human. Particularly

compelling is the way its curatorial framework links

the 1920s to the present. The first appearance of

the term “robot”, the rise of mechanised labour,

new media and industrialised warfare are set in

relation to artificial intelligence, revealing that

JASON O'REAR

106 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

107



ART CULTURE

NEW MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART

JASON KEEN

JASON O'REAR

what we call contemporary remains inseparable

from earlier avant garde ruptures. This continuity

lends the exhibition both depth and urgency,

positioning it as a meditation on time as much as

on technology.

VISITORS ENCOUNTER TWENTIETH CENTURY

masters such as Alberto Giacometti and Constantin

Brâncuşi along side contemporary voices that

include Wangechi Mutu, Camille Henrot, Hito

Steyerl, Anicka Yi and Tau Lewis. What emerges

is not a conventional art historical survey, but a

series of resonances: distorted bodies, dreamlike

landscapes, machine fantasies and post human

imaginings that suggest how profoundly today’s

experimentation draws upon the radical energy

of the European avant garde. And across the

galleries, one encounters speculative cities, hybrid

beings, mechanical children, embryonic imagery,

medical diagrams, synthetic atmospheresand

alternative ecologies. Anicka Yi’s hovering aerobes

offer an especially elegant vision of life adapted

to uncertain futures, while works engaging with

surgical technologies, prosthetics and scientific

visualisation extend the exhibition’s central concern

with the redefinition of humanity. Hannah Höch’s

collaged bodies, Francis Picabia’s machine imagery,

and Bauhaus formulations of the “New Woman”

become newly legible within present day conversations

around bioengineering, cyborg forms, algorithmic

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

109


JASON O'REAR

imagery and post human life in the age of

artificial intelligence.

SOMEWHAT REMINISCENT OF AN ARTISTIC

testing ground, the New Museum is a space in which

the conditions of contemporary art are actively

constructed. Unlike more traditional establishments,

it has no permanent collection anchoring it to a single

narrative and this absence is part of its strength,

for it allows the museum to remain agile, to support new

commissions, to reconsider the past through the lens

of the present, and to offer visitors an experience that

feels responsive rather than fixed. For culturally curious

travellers, this creates a particular sense of anticipation.

One is not merely visiting a museum, but encountering

a temporary alignment of architecture, curatorial

thinking and artistic production that exists only in this

form, at this moment, shaped as much by its visitors as

by its creators.

IN A CITY DEFINED BY CULTURAL ICONS, THE

New Museum stands apart by resisting permanence

and embracing transformation. Visiting is less about

viewing individual works and more about observing

methodology in motion. Offering an opportunity to

understand how exhibitions can function as research,

how historical references may be reactivated within

contemporary frameworks and how institutional

structures can support experimentation rather

than constrain it, not only is the New Museum

visually striking, but it is intellectually engaging

and profoundly contemporary in the most

compelling sense.

https://newmuseum.org

110 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


FROM LONDON, WHERE FRANCESCO MAZZEI

CHANNELS THE SOUL OF SOUTHERN ITALY

THROUGH CALABRIAN COOKING, GENEROUS

SPIRIT AND STRIKING INTERIORS AT

MEZZOGIORNO, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

VISITS MAHARASHTRA TO EXPLORE AN INDIAN

WINE TRAIL, WHERE A NEW GENERATION

OF PRODUCERS IS SHAPING A DISTINCT

VITICULTURAL IDENTITY, AND TAKES A PEW AT

AN EIGHT SEAT COUNTER IN VIENNA, WHERE

SHIKI OMAKASE DELIVERS AN IMMERSIVE

GASTRONOMIC JOURNEY THROUGH JAPANESE

CULINARY PRECISION

MEZZOGIORNO BY

FRANCESCO MAZZEI

➤ LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM

SHIKI OMAKASE

➤ VIENNA, AUSTRIA

INDIAN WINE TRAIL

➤ MAHARASHTRA, INDIA

Bistecca alla Fiorentina

Mezzogiorno by Francesco Mazzei, London


MEZZOGIORNO BY FRANCESCO MAZZEI

➤ LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM

NEWCOMER

WITHIN CORINTHIA LONDON AT CELEBRATED CALABRIAN

CHEF FRANCESCO MAZZEI’S NEW RESTAURANT, THE SPIRIT OF

SOUTHERN ITALY IS BROUGHT TO LIFE THROUGH GENEROUS

COOKING, WARM HOSPITALITY AND THEATRICAL SURROUNDS

FOR FRANCESCO MAZZEI, FOOD HAS

always been inseparable from family,

memory and the rhythms of Southern

Italy. Born and raised in Calabria, the

chef grew up in a region where cooking

remains deeply connected to the land

and sea, where long lunches regularly

spill into evening conversations, and

where recipes are still passed between

generations with instinctive precision

rather than written instruction. It is

this world which informs Mezzogiorno,

Mazzei’s new restaurant at Corinthia

London, and which now occupies the

former Northall dining room within the

grand Whitehall hotel.


THE TRANSFORMATION OF THE

space feels considerable. Anyone

familiar with the former Northall will

immediately notice how completely the

restaurant has shed its previous identity.

Designed by award winning studio

Afroditi, the dining room now feels

warmer, softer and more theatrical.

The tall classical columns remain, as

do the soaring proportions of the room

itself, but everything else appears to

have recalibrated with a distinctly

Italian sensibility, not to mention a

touch of glamour.

WE ENTER THROUGH AN OPEN

kitchen, where chefs work behind curved

marble counters beneath oversized

copper extractor hoods, rolling pasta by

hand and plating dishes beneath softly

glowing lights. It is an arrival designed

to establish atmosphere immediately,

and it works. Beyond, the dining

room is set beneath scalloped ceilings

washed in amber tones, dramatic

chandeliers suspended above parquet

flooring, and pale blush banquettes

divided by elegant fabric screens.

The palette throughout is warm and

inviting, layered with walnut timber,

woven leather seating, veined marble,

textured plasterwork, and soft terracotta

shades which subtly evoke Southern Italy

without descending into cliché.

DESPITE THE GRANDEUR OF THE

room, nothing about the place feels

stiff. On the contrary, staff move with

confidence and ease and our lunch

service unfolds at a measured pace that

encourages us to settle in and enjoy.

Tables are laid simply with ceramic

crockery finished with floral motifs, while

cloches filled with breads and pastries

rest throughout the dining room like

edible centrepieces awaiting use.

LUNCH BEGINS EXACTLY AS IT

probably should in a restaurant inspired

by Calabria. Warm focaccia topped with

tomato arrives alongside crisp sheets

of pane carasau, slender breadsticks,

folded slices of prosciutto, and an intense

Calabrian chilli spread glowing deep

crimson in a ceramic pot. Olive oil is poured

generously into shallow bowls, and a bottle

Antipasto di Mare

ALL IAMGES: PENSARA

MAZZEI IS NO STRANGER TO

London’s restaurant scene. Over the last

two decades, the chef has steadily built

a reputation for sophisticated Italian

cooking through restaurants including

L’Anima, Sartoria, and Fiume, all

while becoming one of Britain’s most

recognisable Italian culinary figures. Yet

Mezzogiorno feels more personal than

much of what has come before it. Named

after the southern half of Italy itself, the

restaurant is rooted less in refinement

for refinement’s sake and more in

the warmth, generosity and spirited

informality of the chef’s upbringing.


of Ca’ Bolani Sauvignon Blanc from Friuli

soon follows, lively and citrus driven

enough to carry us comfortably through

the earlier courses.

SEVERAL ANTIPASTO DI MARE

arrive together. A vibrant tuna crudo

scattered with bottarga and orange

zest is fresh and bright, balancing

sweetness, acidity and clean marine

flavours with impressive restraint.

Scarlet prawns, served simply in

olive oil, require little embellishment

whatsoever. While a dish featuring

delicate and sweet hand-dived Orkney

scallops is pan-seared to caramelized

perfection, and garnished with a rich

Calabrian 'nduja butter.

Francesco Mazzei

CLAIRE MENARY

THERE IS CONFIDENCE

throughout the cooking because very

little feels overworked. Mazzei clearly

understands when to stop. The dishes

are polished, certainly, but they retain

something rustic and instinctiveness too,

which prevents the meal from drifting

into the style of over styled contemporary

Italian dining that has become increasingly

common in London of late.

THE RESTAURANT’S OPEN KITCHEN

and dedicated pasta counter naturally place

considerable focus on handmade pasta,

and rightly so. A dish of golden hand-made

tortelli filled with burrata and ricotta,

arrives glossed in butter and sage, scattered

with hazelnuts and finished with a dark,


TASTE & SIP

NEWCOMER

Tagliolini all’Astice Blu

PENSARA PENSARA

almost caramelised depth that gives the

plate remarkable balance.

LARGER DISHES CONTINUE THE

Southern Italian narrative while subtly

embracing British produce, something

Mazzei remains committed to throughout

the menu. A beautifully cooked Guernsey

pink bream arrives swimming in a lively

sauce of capers, onions, aromatic datterini

tomatoes and sliced green olives, its flesh

delicate and flaky beneath crisped skin.

Alongside it comes a towering bowl of

moreish crispy courgette sticks, and a huge

singular meatball resting in bright tomato

sauce beneath a snowfall of scamorza cheese,

that speaks directly to the sort of comforting

family cooking the restaurant celebrates.

THE MEAL CONCLUDES WITH THE

restaurant’s already famous tiramisu,

presented tableside in an enormous

ceramic dish dusted thickly with cocoa

powder. Large spoonfuls are served

directly onto waiting plates, revealing

layers of mascarpone, coffee soaked

sponge, and cream beneath the dark

surface. It is unapologetically indulgent,

deliberately oversized, and entirely in

keeping with the spirit of Mezzogiorno.

LONDON HAS NEVER BEEN SHORT

of ambitious Italian restaurants,

particularly at the higher end of the

market, but Mezzogiorno feels distinctive

because it understands something

many others miss. Beyond the polished

interiors and serious cooking, there

is genuine warmth here. The room

is handsome without intimidation,

the service refined without coldness,

and the food rooted in memories and

traditions that feel sincerely lived rather

than manufactured for effect. In a city

increasingly saturated with performative

dining concepts, Francesco Mazzei’s

new restaurant succeeds because it

feels personal, grounded, and

wholeheartedly Italian.

www.corinthia.com/en-gb/london

PENSARA

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

115


SHIKI OMAKASE

➤ VIENNA, AUSTRIA

NEWCOMER

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU EMBARKS UPON AN

INTIMATE OMAKASE MEAL AT A NEW DINING VENUE IN

THE HEART OF THE AUSTRIAN CAPITAL, WHERE JAPANESE

CULINARY PRECISION, HUSHED THEATRICALITY AND

EXCEPTIONAL SUSHI TAKE CENTRE STAGE

HIDDEN DISCREETLY BEHIND AN

elegant Japanese boutique on Vienna’s

Krugerstraße, SHIKI Omakase is the

sort of restaurant one could easily walk

past without realising what lies beyond.

There is no dramatic entrance, no

conspicuous signage drawing attention

to itself, and no attempt to cultivate the

sort of social media frenzy increasingly

associated with high-end omakase

dining outside Japan. Instead, guests

arrive quietly, begin with a glass of

IRINA THALHAMMER

Sake-Steamed Sea Bass

116 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


Ruben Gorcea

IRINA THALHAMMER

seasonality, precision, and the gentle

choreography that defines traditional

omakase dining. “Omakase” translates

loosely as “I leave it up to you”, and from

the moment lunch begins, I am in the

hands of the chefs a metre away.

THE ROOM ITSELF IS RESTRAINED

almost to the point of monasticism. Dark

walls and deep green seating frame the

blond timber counter, above which an

illuminated grid ceiling casts a soft,

even glow across the room. Nothing

distracts from the ritual unfolding

directly ahead. A noren curtain hangs

quietly at the rear, sake bottles line

discreet shelving, and every movement

inside the compact kitchen appears

measured and deliberate. Unlike many

contemporary omakase restaurants that

lean heavily into performative theatrics,

SHIKI Omakase exudes calm confidence

from the get-go.

and easy interaction brings warmth to

what would otherwise feel overly formal.

BEGINNING HIS CULINARY

career at the Grand Hotel Wien before

developing a fascination with Japanese

cuisine at the city’s long-established

Unkai restaurant, Gorcea joined SHIKI

in 2022 and completed formal sushi

master training last year under Nobuyuki

Ikarashi of Sushizen Sapporo. Especially

for someone so young, watching him work

is quietly mesmerising. His movements

are economical and exact, whether slicing

fish, brushing nigiri with soy, shaping

rice, or preparing dishes over binchotan

charcoal. Yet there is no sense of

stiffness about him. He chats comfortably

with me between courses, explaining

ingredients and preparation methods

with enthusiasm, helping establish an

atmosphere that feels convivial rather

than ceremonious.

champagne at a chic counter in the

boutique, and are then ushered into

a serene dining room containing just

eight seats arranged around a pale

wooden counter.

OPENED LATE LAST YEAR BY

celebrated conductor and restaurateur

Joji Hattori as an extension of his

acclaimed Japanese restaurant nearby,

SHIKI Omakase marks a more focused

and exclusive evolution of the brand.

Here, the emphasis is placed squarely

on trust between chef and guest, on

I ARRIVE AT 12.30 AND LUNCH

begins at 1pm, unfolding gradually over

the course of an entire afternoon that

seems to slip by unnoticed. Courses

arrive steadily, each one prepared

directly in front of me with remarkable

concentration and skill, while wine,

then sake, is poured gently into elegant

stemware and conversation rises and

falls naturally across the counter. The

atmosphere remains hushed yet relaxed,

aided considerably by the personable

presence of sous chef and sushi meister

Ruben Gorcea, whose calm demeanour

THE MEAL BEGINS DELICATELY,

with lighter dishes allowing the palate to

settle into the rhythm of the afternoon.

One particularly memorable course

features sea bass steamed gently in sake

until almost silken in texture. The fish

arrives alongside spinach softened in

dashi broth, while a sesame-soy dressing

lends warmth and savoury depth without

overwhelming the natural sweetness

of the sea bass itself. Like much of the

menu, the dish demonstrates impressive

restraint. Nothing feels unnecessarily

embellished or manipulated.

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

117


SOON AFTERWARDS, NIGIRI BEGINS

arriving one piece at a time across the

counter, each carefully shaped moments

before being placed before diners. Among

the standouts is a beautiful redfish nigiri,

lightly torched to introduce the faintest

whisper of smoke while preserving the

clean freshness of the fish beneath.

Finished with finely sliced chives and

brushed with soy, it is deceptively

simple yet executed with tremendous

precision, the temperature and balance

proving faultless.

AS LUNCH PROGRESSES, SAKE

pairings become increasingly important

to the experience. SHIKI reportedly

houses one of Europe’s largest sake

collections, with more than sixty labels

available exclusively by bottle. My sake

journey is curated, expertly paired with

different dishes and served by affable

Georg Loeb, who obviously has a strong

background in luxury hospitality. Delicate

and mineral-driven sakes accompany

the earlier seafood courses beautifully,

while fuller-bodied varieties appear

later alongside richer dishes, each deftly

explained by Loeb, who is also engaging.

And the pacing feels thoughtful, with

neither food nor sake ever competing for

attention.

ONE OF THE AFTERNOON’S MOST

indulgent moments arrives in the form

of Toro Kavira, a luxurious combination

of finely chopped bluefin tuna belly and

Greek caviar seasoned with Okinawan

salt. Prepared as a delicate tartare, the

toro possesses a remarkable buttery

softness, while the caviar contributes

salinity and texture in careful proportion.

A restrained marinade introduces gentle

sweetness and depth without distracting

from the purity of the ingredients

themselves. Rich though it is, the dish

does not feels excessive.

EQUALLY MEMORABLE IS A TORO

nigiri that follows later in the meal.

Gently kissed over binchotan charcoal

moments before serving, the prized

fatty tuna develops the faintest exterior

char while remaining cool and yielding

within. The effect is extraordinary, the

Wagyu Steak

IIMAGES: RINA THALHAMMER

118 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


TASTE & SIP

NEWCOMER

Seared Toro

fish almost dissolving upon contact

with the tongue. Watching Gorcea

prepare it directly opposite only

heightens the anticipation.

SEVERAL COOKED COURSES

punctuate the procession of sushi and

sashimi throughout the afternoon.

Chawanmushi topped with roe arrives

warm and comforting, while grilled

eel introduces smokier, more robust

flavours before the meal gradually builds

towards its richest plate: A5 Wagyu from

Japan’s Miyazaki Prefecture. Possessing

intricate, snowflake-like marbling, the

beef is grilled carefully over binchotan

charcoal until the exterior develops

gentle caramelisation while the interior

remains almost impossibly tender.

Served simply with salt and fresh

wasabi, it requires nothing further.

DESPITE THE VISIBLE PRECISION,

at no point does SHIKI Omakase feel

cold or intimidating. On the contrary,

staff remain attentive yet unobtrusive,

sake appears seamlessly whenever my

glass needs refilling, and the intimate

scale of the room fosters a subtle

camaraderie amongst diners, with

conversation flowing and much laughter,

creating the sense that everyone present

is participating in a shared experience,

rather than merely consuming a meal.

VIENNA MAY NOT BE THE FIRST

city that comes to mind when

considering omakase dining, yet SHIKI

is entirely convincing in both concept

and execution. Crucially, it avoids the

trap of imitation so often found in luxury

Japanese restaurants outside Japan.

There is authenticity here, certainly,

but also restraint, confidence, and an

understanding that true refinement

rarely needs to announce itself loudly.

Osuimono Shrimp Soup

MOST IMPORTANTLY, THE FOOD

is exceptional. From the first delicately

prepared dishes to the pinnacle

of Japanese Wagyu, every course

demonstrates an unwavering commitment

to precision, balance and ingredient

quality. Combined with the intimacy

of the setting and the quietly engaging

presence of Ruben Gorcea behind the

counter, SHIKI Omakase succeeds in

creating something increasingly rare in

contemporary fine dining: an experience

that feels genuinely transporting,

immersive, and entirely

memorable.

www.shiki-omakase.at/en

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

119


MAHARASHTRA

➤ INDIA

WINE CULTURE

a new vintage for india

KEVIN PILLEY VENTURES ALONG INDIA’S EVOLVING WINE TRAIL, WHERE A

ONCE IMPROBABLE INDUSTRY IS GRADUALLY FINDING BOTH CONFIDENCE AND

CHARACTER, AND IS REDEFINING THE COUNTRY’S VITICULTURE LANDSCAPE


SWIRL. SNIFF. SIP.” THE RITUAL

feels reassuringly familiar, even if the

setting does not. Standing on a sunlit

terrace overlooking rows of vines in

Nashik, I raise a glass of Satori red

and watch its garnet hue catch the late

afternoon light. The tannins are gentle,

and the fruit is composed rather than

assertive. It is, quite simply, a competent

wine. This alone marks a quiet shift.

A second glass follows, this time a

Shiraz. “Very good with spicy food,” my

guide Meenal says with a knowing smile.

It is a pairing suggestion that speaks not

only of flavour, but of instinct. Indian

wine is no longer imitating the West. It is

beginning to understand itself.

MY EARLIEST ENCOUNTER WITH

Indian wine is far less assured. Two

decades ago in Goa, a bottle bought

more out of curiosity than conviction,

delivered an experience memorable

chiefly for its severity. A later

attempt aboard storied luxury train,

The Palace on Wheels, did little to

improve matters. At the time, Indian

wine felt like an afterthought and

a novelty, rather than a serious

pursuit. That perception no longer

holds, for across India, a new

generation of producers, sommeliers

and drinkers is reshaping the

conversation. Domestic wines

appear on restaurant lists with

growing confidence. And in cities

such as Mumbai, Bengaluru and

Hyderabad, wine bars and curated

cellars form part of an increasingly

self-assured urban culture.

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

121


TASTE & SIP

WINE CULTURE

Fratelli Wines

BY GLOBAL STANDARDS, INDIAN

wine production remains modest, but

is steadily expanding. India produces

around 30 million litres of wine each year,

the vast majority in Maharashtra, in the

western peninsular of the nation, bordered

by the Arabian Sea. Consumption is still

low per capita, yet it continues to rise,

driven by a young, urban middle class

whose tastes are evolving with curiosity

rather than haste.

THE GEOGRAPHY OF INDIAN

viticulture is broader than one might

expect. Vineyards stretch from the

southern reaches of Tamil Nadu to

parts of Madhya Pradesh, though it

is Nashik that draws most attention.

Around 170 kilometres northeast of

Mumbai, its elevation, diurnal shifts

and basalt-rich soils create conditions

that are unexpectedly well suited to

grape growing.

OFTEN COMPARED TO NAPA VALLEY,

Nashik is changing rapidly. Once known

primarily as a pilgrimage city on the

banks of the Godavari River, it is now

home to some 40 wineries. From small,

considered estates to larger commercial

operations, together they produce around

80% of the nation's wines. Foremost

Sula Vineyards

among them is Sula Vineyards, widely

regarded as the driving force behind

modern Indian winemaking.

FOUNDED IN 1999 BY RAJEEV

Samant after vines were first planted in

1997, the estate is playing a central role

in shaping both Indian wine quality and

its perception. Sula's first commercial

vintage appeared in 2000. Since then,

the vineyard has grown into one of the

country’s most recognisable names.

Set across gently undulating land

near Gangapur Lake, the vineyards

benefit from warm days and noticeably

cooler nights during the growing season.

This balance allows grapes to ripen fully

while retaining freshness. The Dindori

plots, in particular, stand out for their

red, mineral-rich soils, which bring

structure and quiet depth to wines such

as the Reserve Shiraz and Viognier.

Beyond the cellar, Sula invests

heavily in wine tourism. Contemporary

tasting spaces, an open-air

amphitheatre, and the adjoining Soma

Vine Village create an experience that

feels relaxed rather than overly staged.

Visitors are encouraged not simply

to taste, but to look more closely at

the land, the climate and the decision

making behind each bottle.

INDIA’S WINEMAKING HISTORY

stretches back further than is often

assumed. Archaeological evidence points

122 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


Sula Vineyards

Sula Vineyards

its Sauvignon Blanc carries a freshness

that reflects its setting. Tastings take

place on a shaded deck, where the stillness

of the water and the sweep of vines beyond

lend the experience a sense of natural

calm. www.yorkwinery.com

to early forms of fermentation thousands

of years ago, though these bear little

resemblance to modern wine. During

the Mughal period, attitudes to alcohol

shifted with the court, while Portuguese

and later British influence introduced

more recognisable practices of cultivation

and production. The modern industry,

however, is very much a late twentiethcentury

development.

International consultants from

France, Italy and California helped

refine techniques and consistency. But it

was the willingness of Indian producers

to adapt rather than imitate that proved

to be most important. At Sula, this

approach is clear. Wines such as its

Dindori Reserve Viognier show a balance

of ripe fruit and gentle minerality, while

the light, fresh and fruity character of

its cold-fermented Chenin Blanc, finished

in a semi-dry style, makes it an excellent

aperitif. These are wines made not for

comparison, but for context, and designed

to sit comfortably alongside Indian food,

where spice and texture demand nuance.

https://sulavineyards.com

BEYOND NASHIK, OTHER

producers are shaping the landscape in

quieter ways. York Winery, established

in 2006, sits on a hillside overlooking the

Gangapur Dam. Its smaller scale allows

for a more attentive approach in both

vineyard and cellar. York's Shiraz is

structured without excess weight, while

FURTHER SOUTH, FRATELLI WINES

reflects a different ambition. Located near

Akluj in Maharashtra’s Solapur district,

the estate emerges from a collaboration

between Indian and Italian partners,

with technical guidance drawn from

Tuscany. The vineyards sit at a slightly

higher elevation, where heat requires

careful management through irrigation

and canopy work. The resulting

wines, particularly Sette – a blend of

Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon –

aim for a balance between structure and

ripeness. The estate itself is expansive,

with modern production facilities, slick

architecture, on-site accommodation

and curated tastings that reflect a more

deliberate, precision-led approach to

winemaking. https://fratelliwines.in

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

123


TASTE & SIP

WINE CULTURE

BEYOND THE VINEYARDS, WINE

tourism is beginning to establish itself

in India. Vineyard stays, tastings and

seasonal festivals attract visitors from

across India and beyond. At Sula’s

annual fest, music, food and wine come

together in a way that feels distinctly

local. It is not an attempt to replicate

Europe, but something more relaxed,

more open, and perhaps more in tune

with its surroundings.

CHALLENGES REMAIN, OF COURSE.

Climate variability, taxation and

distribution continue to shape the pace

of development. Wine must also compete

with long-established preferences for

spirits such as whisky, which still

dominate the market. Even so, there

is a sense of momentum. Indian wines

are appearing more frequently in

international competitions, gaining

recognition not as curiosities, but as

serious entries. Exports remain limited,

yet they are growing, with a modest but

meaningful presence in markets such as

the UK.

BACK ON A TERRACE IN NASHIK,

another glass is poured as the light

softens and the vines fall into shadow.

There is, in that moment, a sense not of

novelty, but of quiet assurance. Indian

wine may have arrived later than many

expected, but it has arrived with a sense

of purpose and, perhaps most

importantly, with a growing

sense of its own identity.


X

THE GLOBAL COLLECTIVE UNVEILS

ITS FIRST EXPRESSION IN INDIA

A 109-suite address arrives in Mumbai, the group’s newest

culture-led destination.

#MeetRoswyn

KNOW MORE

Fi’lia | Black Lacquer | The Third Room | Blu Xone

Authentic Italian Restaurant | Japanese Listening Room | Business Lounge | Transformative Wellness


SUMMER

2026 TRAVEL

ESSENTIALS

WITH SEASONED GLOBETROTTERS

MOVING EVER MORE FREQUENTLY

AND WITH GREATER DISCERNMENT,

SELECTING THE RIGHT TRIP

ESSENTIALS IS INCREASINGLY

ABOUT QUALITY, LONGEVITY AND

FUNCTIONALITY. FORTUNATELY,

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER HAS

DONE THE HARD WORK FOR YOU!

FROM BEAUTIFULLY MADE LUGGAGE

AND ELEVATED IN-FLIGHT COMFORT

TO THOUGHTFUL GROOMING,

INTELLIGENT ORGANISATION AND

DISCREETLY ADVANCED TECH,

THIS CURATED SELECTION BRINGS

TOGETHER KEY PIECES BUILT TO

LAST AND DESIGNED TO PERFORM

126 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


SHOPPING

BENNETT WINCH WEEKENDER

For shorter trips, a soft sided holdall often feels more intuitive than a wheeled

case, especially when movement needs to be quick and unencumbered.

Bennett Winch has earned a loyal following for beautifully made travel pieces

produced in England with durability at their core. Its weekender holdall is

crafted from weatherproof canvas with leather trim, giving it both resilience

and polish. The proportions are carefully judged, so it slips easily into an

overhead locker while still holding everything required for a night or two

away. It suits the traveller who packs with discipline and dislikes fuss. Quietly

luxurious rather than ostentatious, it is a bag that reflects experience, good

judgment, and a preference for things that improve with regular use.

£975 www.bennettwinch.com

WOOLNUT

LEATHER TECH

ORGANISER

The small pieces of technology that

accompany modern travel can easily become

the untidiest part of a well packed bag. Woolnut

has built its reputation on restrained leather

goods that bring order to modern life, and its

leather tech organiser answers this need with

simple clarity. Crafted from premium full-grain

leather from Scandinavia, it opens to reveal a

carefully arranged interior for cables, chargers

and smaller accessories, keeping everything

in place without wasting space. Its compact

format means it slips neatly into a briefcase,

tote or carry-on, ready to be retrieved at a

moment’s notice. For travellers who value

control and dislike rummaging at security or inflight,

it is an elegant corrective to clutter and a

reminder that efficiency can still look refined.

£110 www.woolnut.com

FPM MILANO BANK

SPINNER CARRY-ON

A well chosen cabin case should convey intention

rather than familiarity, offering substance without

relying on recognisable signatures. FPM Milano, the

Italian luggage house founded by industrial designer

Marc Sadler, approaches travel with a distinctly

architectural eye, drawing on the form of vintage

trunks while refining them for contemporary use.

This 68 centimetre leather-trimmed Bank Spinner

in rich chocolate brown is hand-assembled in Italy

from durable aluminium, its structured shell defined

by fine ribbing and precise riveted edges. Smooth

leather handles and trim introduce a warmer, more

tactile contrast, softening the metal’s rigidity and

ageing beautifully with use. Movement is smooth

and controlled, supported by dual wheels and a

telescopic handle designed for ease rather than

show. Inside, a fully lined and padded interior keeps

belongings secure in transit. For the seasoned

traveller, it offers a considered alternative to more

predictable Rimowa cases, with a stronger sense of

individuality and design intent.

£1,350 www.mrporter.com

SKROSS PRO WORLD ADAPTER

Global travel depends on seamless charging, yet few objects

are as irritating as a badly designed adapter. SKROSS has

built a strong reputation in this field, producing reliable travel

power solutions that are compact, safe and straightforward

to use. Made in Switzerland, its Pro World Adapter is designed

to accommodate multiple plug types, making it a useful

companion across complex itineraries that span several

countries. And integrated USB ports reduce the number of

chargers that need packing, which in turn helps simplify hand

luggage. It is definitely not a glamorous object, but it is a

necessary one, and necessity handled well has its own appeal.

£49.99 www.skross.com

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

127


SHOPPING

BANG AND OLUFSEN

BEOPLAY H95 HEADPHONES

Few luxuries in transit matter more than the ability to create a private

world inside a crowded cabin. Bang and Olufsen has long balanced

technical excellence with refined design and its headphones exemplify

that combination. Active noise cancellation (ANC) softens the

surrounding din, whether that means an aircraft cabin, a busy lounge or

a delayed departure gate. These Beoplay H95 headphone blend ultradetailed

sound with superb design to give your music the performance

it deserves. And when things get busy, it only takes a second to block

out the noise, with five levels of cancellation to handle everything from

the hum of a plane to the commotion of an airport. And one charge

provides 38 hours of non-stop use with ANC switched-on, which is long

enough for a trip from Paris to Perth and back again!

£879 www.bang-olufsen.com/en/gb

MULBERRY DOUBLE

ZIP WASH CASE

However glamorous the destination, daily routine still matters,

and a well-made washbag to contain your toiletries preserves

a sense of continuity. Mulberry, with its long association with

British leather craftsmanship, produces a number that feel both

sturdy and refined. Made from a soft heavy bovine leather with a

beautifully soft and supple hand feel, this double zip wash case

was crafted for functionality and designed for style. The double

zips ensure that items are easily accessible from the spacious

internal compartment. The handle makes carrying simple and

convenient. And the leathere will gradually become even softer

with use, adding to the beauty of this travel essential.

£325 www.mulberry.com TRAVALO WALTZ

ATOMISER

A quick spritz of one's fragrance on a plane or

after arriving in a destination, can help restore a

sense of self after hours or travelling. But carrying

a full bottle is rarely practical. Travalo’s refillable

Waltz leather atomiser solves this problem neatly,

allowing perfume to travel in a compact, secure

format that fits easily into a pocket, clutch or wash

case. The brand’s appeal lies in making something

genuinely useful feel streamlined and considered,

rather than purely functional. Thanks to an

innovative and patented system, filling without

spilling is quick. And the glass-free atomiser is

leak-proof, which is essential when fragrance sits

alongside clothing and electronics.

£16.88 www.amazon.co.uk


SAINT LAURENT

PASSPORT HOLDER

A passport is handled repeatedly during any journey, so the object

that protects it ought to feel considered. Looking and feeling smart

without trying too hard, Saint Laurent brings its familiar Parisian

restraint to this smooth leather Tiny Cassandre passport holder,

which also features also card slots, Sleek and pared back, it allows

the high quality of the leather and the proportions to do the work.

And slim enough to slip into a jacket pocket, it protects the most

important of travel documents while lending a subtle note of style

to every stage of departure and arrival. For the cultivated traveller,

it turns a bureaucratic essential into something quietly elegant,

which is often where real luxury begins.

£355 www.mytheresa.com/gb/en

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ETTINGER CAPRA

LUGGAGE TAG

The most useful travel details are often the

least conspicuous. Ettinger, a British leather

goods house with a Royal Warrant, understands

this instinctively. Its Capra luggage tag is

made from durable goat leather, which resists

both scratches and water. The design is

uncomplicated, which is precisely its appeal,

allowing craftsmanship rather than decoration

to take the lead. And the tag can be hand

personalised with your initials, by a specialist

craftsperson in Ettinger's factory.

£60 www.ettingerlondon.com

HORIZN STUDIOS

PACKING CUBES

Packing well is less about squeezing in more and more

about ensuring that everything remains accessible once

the journey begins. Horizn Studios, the Berlin based brand

known for contemporary travel solutions, approaches this

issue with a set of four packing cubes that bring a degree

of structure to a suitcase. Lightweight, well proportioned

and fitted with mesh panels for visibility, they help separate

garments without adding needless bulk, and are especially

useful on multi-stop itineraries, where a bag can quickly

descend into disorder. Rather than turning packing into a

rigid ritual, they simply make it calmer and more efficient.

£80 www.horizn-studios.co.uk

BRITISH BOXERS

ALPACA SOCKS

Comfort in transit is often determined by the things

nobody else sees, and quality socks are a good example

of how small details can significantly improve your in-flight

experience. Soft, breathable and insulating without bulk,

they help regulate temperature on planes and long car

transfers alike. Fitted but not constricting (which matters

when one is sitting for hours at a stretch), these British

Boxers socks are crafted using traditional methods honed

over 100 years, and knitted with the softest alpaca wool.

British made with 10% nylon for a little added strength.

Available for him and her.

£26 www.british-boxers.com

130 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


SHOPPING

CLIMA BRISHED

STEEL BOTTLE

Hydration is one of the simplest travel

principles and one of the easiest to neglect.

24Bottles has built its identity around

lightweight, well designed bottles that

encourage better habits without looking

utilitarian, and the Clima Bottle is among

its most useful offerings. Insulated to keep

drinks at temperature for extended periods, it

supports everything from cold water on a hot

city walk to hot tea on an early train. The design

is streamlined and easy to carry, which matters

far more than decorative fuss. For travellers

trying to reduce disposable waste while staying

properly hydrated, it is a smart and attractive

alternative to airport purchases.

£55 www.24bottles.com

STACKERS MEDIUM

JEWELLERY CASE

Travelling with jewellery can be surprisingly stressful,

particularly when the pieces in question are valuable, delicate,

or simply sentimental. Stackers has become well known for

sensible well-designed storage, and its travel jewellery cases

are one of those objects that solves a specific problem with real

assurance. Velvet lined, this medium sized case comes in a wide

range of colours; is compact enough to tuck easily into hand

luggage; contains neatly planned compartments that prevent

tangling; and is especially useful for travellers carrying a few

cherished items rather than a full set of jewels. The divider is

also removable to accommodate larger statement earrings!

£28 www.stackers.com

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

131


LINEN CUPBOARD

TRAVEL PILLOW

A luxurious travel pillow can undoubtedly help you

feel at home wherever you are in the world. For

three decades, Yorkshire-based Linen Cupboard

has been synonymous with luxury bedding and

their new-style travel pillow has been designed

for superior comfort wherever your journey takes

you, whether you are on a plane, train or in a hotel.

Big enough to rest your head on, yet small enough

to pack, it is generously filled for First Class

comfort, and comes with a zipped white cotton

percale pillowcase, to keep the pillow fresh and

clean on-the-go.

£44 www.linencupboard.co.uk

JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN

CASHMERE STOLE

Aircraft cabins, cool evenings and over enthusiastic hotel air

conditioning all point to the same conclusion: a truly useful

travel wardrobe needs a versatile layer. Johnstons of Elgin,

the Scottish mill whose heritage stretches back centuries,

produces a range of versatile cashmere stoles that are

lightweight enough to fold into hand luggage yet warm enough

to function as a wrap or impromptu blanket, moving gracefully

between practical need and sartorial polish. This luxurious

charcoal grey stole is crafted in Scotland from 100% cashmere

and is generously sized.

£595 www.johnstonsofelgin.com

132 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


SHOPPING

LA M ER LIP BALM

Dry lips can quickly become one of the most

irritating side effects of air travel, particularly

on longer flights where cabin conditions are

relentless. La Mer’s lip balm offers a compact

but effective answer, bringing the brand’s

reputation for rich, restorative care to one of

the smallest yet most necessary parts of a

travel routine. Smooth in texture and deeply

comforting, it forms a protective barrier

against dryness while remaining easy to

reapply throughout a journey.

£65 www.cremedelamer.co.uk

DROWSY SILK SLEEP MASK

Long haul travel has a way of disrupting even the best intentions,

which is why proper rest should never be left to chance. Drowsy has

developed a range of sleep masks that takes this seriously, combining

softness, coverage and comfort in a way that feels genuinely useful

rather than merely attractive. Made from silk and generously padded,

they block light effectively while sitting gently across the face, avoiding

the pressure that lesser masks can cause around the eyes, and are

invaluable on overnight flights, where even a small improvement in

sleep can alter the first day of arrival.

£69 www.drowsysleepco.com

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AESOP RESURRECTION

AROMATIQUE HAND BALM

Hands tend to bear the brunt of travel, from repeated washing at

airports to dry cabin air and constant shifts in temperature. Known for

its thoughtful formulations and refined botanical sensibility, Aesop’s

balms particularly, have become a modern skincare classic, not

least because they treat hands swiftly and effectively. This hydrating

Resurrection Aromatique Hand Balm, with an evocative citrus aroma,

was the brand's first-ever skin product and is now a travel staple.

£27 www.aesop.co.uk

AUGUSTINUS BADER

RICH CREAM

TRAVEL KIT

Travel places real strain on the skin, particularly

in aircraft cabins where dryness is constant and

often relentless. Augustinus Bader, the science led

skincare brand admired for its high-performance

formulations, addresses this issue with a compact

routine built around hydration and repair. Its Rich

Cream Travel Kit allows travellers to maintain

a coherent regimen without carrying full sized

products, which makes it particularly useful for

hand luggage only trips. A complete on-the-glow

system, the set features four of the brand’s bestknown

treatments: gentle Cream Cleansing Gel;

breakthrough 3-in-1 Essence; nourishing Face Oil,

and iconic Rich Cream.

£175 www.augustinusbader.com

134 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


SHOPPING

SUSANNE KAUFMANN

MULTI-PROTECTION

MIST

Hydration on the move should be approached from more

than one angle, and a well formulated facial mist can make

a noticeable difference during a long day of travel. Susanne

Kaufmann’s Multi-Protection Mist is particularly well judged,

offering light hydration in a format that is easy to use

in flight, at the airport or on arrival. Newly reformulated

with the addition of intelligent new ingredients from the

Alpine region, the mist's formula now includes butterfly

bush flower extract, which is proven to protect the skin

from damage caused by UV radiation, dryness, heat or

cold. Alongside this is silk protein, to prevent the skin from

drying out and ensuring it’s left nourished and smooth.

And doubling down on hydration is a dose of ectoin, which

increases the skin’s capacity to store moisture in-flight

£55 www.cultbeauty.co.uk

SHISEIDO SUN

PROTECTOR CLEAR

STICK SPF 50+

Sun protection remains important even when travel

feels urban rather than tropical, and the best formulas

are those that can be reapplied easily while on-thego.

Shiseido has long been admired for elegant,

high-performance skincare, and this solid clear stick

makes sun protection hyper convenient, gliding on

without mess. It can be used quickly during shopping

expeditions, between museum visits or during long

afternoons outdoors. For travellers moving between

cities and climates, it removes the usual excuses

around skin protection and brings consistency in a

discreet, portable format.

£33 www.shiseido.co.uk

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

135


MOLESKINE SMART WRITING SET

For travellers who still prefer the clarity of writing by hand, but no longer wish to

keep their thoughts confined to paper, Moleskine Smart is an elegant option. Long

associated with notebooks carried by writers, artists and architects, the Italian

stationery brand has reimagined the traditional travel journal for a more digitally

connected age. Comprising a smart notebook and discreetly engineered pen, the

system instantly transfers handwritten notes and sketches to a smartphone or

tablet in real time, preserving the tactile pleasure of writing, while removing the

anxiety of losing important details on the road. Particularly useful for itineraries,

observations, interview notes or fleeting impressions gathered in transit, it feels less

like a gadget and more like a natural evolution of the notebook itself.

£229 www.moleskine.com/en-gb

APPLE AIRTAG

Modern travel can be unexpectedly

chaotic, which is why reassurance has

become an essential form of luxury in its

own right. Its appeal lying in how quietly

it does its job, Apple’s AirTag provides

travellers with a simple way to keep

tabs on luggageSmall enough to remain

unobtrusive, it can be slipped into a

suitcase or attached to a bag without

adding bulk. Once in place and via Apple's

Find My app, it provides location updates

that help remove much of the uncertainty

in-between flights when transferring from

plane to plane.

£29 for one or £99 for four

www.apple.com/uk/shop

136 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


SHOPPING

NIMBLE FOLD 3-IN-1

WIRELESS CHARGER

Modern travel increasingly means managing several

devices at once, which can turn a bedside table or

airport lounge seat into a tangle of cables surprisingly

quickly. Nimble’s foldable wireless charger offers a

calmer solution, allowing an iPhone, Apple Watch and

AirPods to charge together in one sleek piece. Most

importantly, it folds flat to travel easily, and the lowprofile

hinge adjusts to charge devices upright or in

nightstand mode.

£139.95 www.apple.com/uk/shop

WOLF TRIPLE WATCH ROLL

For travellers who alternate between watches according to destination, dress

or daytime and evening engagements, proper protection matters. Wolf, the

heritage accessories house founded in the 19th century, has long specialised

in storage that feels as carefully considered as the pieces it holds. This British

Racing Triple Watch Roll provides a secure and handsome way to carry three

timepieces, with a supple exterior and a padded interior that also features a

secret jewellery capsule.

£259 www.wolf1834.com/uk

ANKER MAGGO POWER BANK

Modern travel increasingly depends on keeping a phone alive. Boarding

passes, hotel reservations, maps, translation apps and restaurant

recommendations now sit inside a single device, which makes a dependable

power bank less of an accessory and more of a necessity. Anker has become

one of the most trusted names in portable charging by focusing on reliability

rather than gimmickry, and its MagGo Ultra Slim Power Bank reflects that

philosophy particularly well. Slim, compact and powerful, with the ability

to charge an iPhone 17 Pro to 25% in less than 20 minutes, it attaches

magnetically to the phone, removing the nuisance of tangled charging cables

while moving through airports or cities.

£69 www.anker.com/uk

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

137


A


LITTLE BLACK BOOK

WEB DIRECTORY FOR ISSUE 54

OF THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

A

ARKEN MUSEUM

➤ www.aman.com

AMOH, RHODES

➤ https://the-luxury-collection.marriott.com

B

BOURBAKI PANORAMA, LUCERNE

➤ www.bourbakipanorama.ch/en

BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT

➤ https://burgenstockresort.com/en

CCAROLINE FREY

➤ https://carolinefrey.ch

CASA J.K. PLACE ROMA

➤ www.jkplaces.com

CASTLE ELVIRA

➤ https://castleelvira.com

CHÂTEAU GÜTSCH

➤ www.chateau-guetsch.ch/en

DDANCING HOUSE, PRAGUE

➤ www.dancinghouse.cz/en

DOX CENTRE FOR CONTEMPORARY ART

➤ www.dox.cz

EESKA, PRAGUE

➤ https://eska.ambi.cz/en

FFIELD, PRAGUE

➤ www.fieldrestaurant.cz/en

FRATELLI WINES

➤ https://fratelliwines.in

GGLASGOW CATHEDRAL

➤ https://glasgowcathedral.org

GLASGOW NECROPOLIS

➤ www.glasgownecropolis.org

HHARVEY B-BROWN

➤ https://harveybbrown.com

JJESUIT CHURCH, LUCERNE

➤ www.jesuitenkirche-luzern.ch

KKKL LUZERN

➤ www.kkl-luzern.ch/en

KUCHYŇ, PRAGUE

➤ https://kuchyn.ambi.cz/en

LLION MONUMENT, LUCERNE

➤ www.loewendenkmal-luzern.ch/en

LUCERNE ART MUSEUM

➤ www.kunstmuseumluzern.ch/en

LUCERNE MUSEUM

➤ www.museumluzern.ch

LUCERNE TOURISM

➤ www.luzern.com/en

LUCIDE, LUCERNE

➤ www.lucide-luzern.ch/en

MMANDARIN ORIENTAL PRAGUE

➤ www.mandarinoriental.com/en/prague

MAX CHOCOLATIER

➤ www.maxchocolatier.com/en

MBAMBA

➤ https://naturalselection.travel

MEZZOGIORNO BY FRANCESCO MAZZEI

➤ www.corinthia.com/en-gb/london

MOUNT PILATUS, LUCERNE

➤ www.pilatus.ch

MUSEGG WALL, LUCERNE

➤ www.museggmauer.ch

NNEW MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART

➤ www.newmuseum.org

NOORMAHAL

➤ https://autograph-hotels.marriott.com

PPRAGUE CASTLE

➤ www.hrad.cz/en

PRAGUE TOURISM

➤ https://prague.eu/en

RREGENT HONG KONG

➤ https://hongkong.regenthotels.com

ROSENGART COLLECTION

➤ www.rosengart.ch/en

SSCALA RESTAURANT, LUCERNE

➤ www.hotel-montana.ch

SHIKI OMAKASE

➤ https://shiki-omakase.at/en

SULA VINEYARDS

➤ https://sulavineyards.com

SWISS MUSEUM OF TRANSPORT

➤ www.verkehrshaus.ch/en

TTHE BRISTOL BELGRADE

➤ www.thebristolbelgrade.com

THE LAKE COMO EDITION

➤ www.editionhotels.com

THE POT STILL, GLASGOW

➤ https://thepotstill.co.uk

THE ST. REGIS BUDAPEST

➤ www.stregisbudapest.com

THE SUNNY HOTEL

➤ www.thesunnyhotel.com

VVAREL SINGAPORE

➤ https://tribute-portfolio.marriott.com

VERDALA WELLNESS HOTEL

➤ https://axhotelsmalta.com

VISIT GLASGOW

➤ www.visitglasgow.com

WW SARDINIA – POLTU QUATU

➤ https://w-hotels.marriott.com

YYORK WINERY

➤ www.yorkwinery.com

ZŽIŽKOV TELEVISION TOWER

➤ https://towerpark.cz

WEB DIRECTORY

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER 139


TRAVEL TIPS AT THE TOP

harvey b-brown

WITH A CAREER SPANNING FILM, FASHION, ART AND

VISUAL STORYTELLING, AWARD-WINNING FILMMAKER

HARVEY B-BROWN OFTEN TRAVELS IN SEARCH OF

BEAUTY, CULTURE AND INSPIRATION. WE ASK THE LONDON

BASED CREATIVE TWELVE QUESTIONS ABOUT PACKING

WELL, FLYING IN COMFORT, AND THE DESTINATIONS THAT

CONTINUE TO FUEL HIS IMAGINATION

Do you prepare differently for work travel

than personal escapes?

There is a maxim. If you love what you do for

a living then you never have to work a day in

your life. Luckily, this is true for me, so there

is no difference.

What’s your advice for packing elegantly

without taking too much?

I challenge myself to do “the perfect pack”, i.e. to

wear everything that I take with me. I tend to

wear coordinating outfits from Orlebar Brown -

great easy-to-wear pieces that mix and match.

Do you travel with structured

luggage or something softer?

A structured bag for the hold

(more secure) and a big soft bag

for the plane. I have a

vintage Prada nylon

weekend bag which

holds a lot of stuff.

What never leaves

your carry-on,

whether for work or

comfort?

My Apple laptop and a charger and my

treasured silk nylon Fornasetti eye mask. It

blocks out all the light when I need to nap. I

also tend to carry around an old-fashioned

leather-bound notebook and pen.

Have airport lounges become part

of your routine?

Yes. I love to arrive on the early side for a

flight and relax in the lounge. Heathrow

Terminal 5's BA lounges feel like a home away

from home.

What still makes

travelling feel

glamorous to you?

On the plane you are

obliged to turn off

internet. No emails,

no messages, no social

media…it’s utter

luxury. I also take

Zagara orange-scented

Ortigia products with

me whenever I travel. The fragrance sets a

tone of quiet calm and smells like home.

Is there a garment that you never

fly without on a plane?

I have a small range of my Adored & Adorned

paintings printed onto large cashmere wraps.

Jaipur

They are extremely lightweight, extra warm

and turn any look into a glamorous outfit. I

like to pack a few.

Which city has the strongest instinct

for visual drama?

Too hard to choose just one. It’s a draw

between Rome and Mumbai for me.

Mumbai

Is there a hotel anywhere that

completely understands atmosphere?

I tend to like small luxury boutique

hotels that are glam with a relaxed

atmosphere, and provide an effortless

five-star experience. I like smaller

Soho House Hotels, not least because

it's nice to round off the night in a latenight

bar.

Where do you find the most

inspiration while abroad?

Everywhere! The architecture, the art,

the food, the landscape, the culture. It is

inspiration to all five senses.

What’s your smartest trick for

surviving a delayed long-haul flight

in style?

I tend to wear slip-on shoes and soft

unstructured clothes. No belts, no

jewellery. It makes getting through

security much quicker and sitting

in your seat more comfortable. I also

like soft, comfy knitwear in great

colours and have a few From Future

pieces I love.

Do you unpack completely in

hotels, or live straight from

your suitcase?

Absolutely. I do a full unpack, clothes

and toiletries. I try and make myself

at home. I have a number of matching

cabana shirts and shorts combos

from Tombola and they make my

temporary wardrobe look

extremely coordinated.

140 ISSUE 54 JUNE - AUGUST 2026


Regenerative Luxury

ĐẮK LẮK, VIETNAM

73 villas . 3 restaurants . 3 bars

900m of sandy beach . wellbeing & fitness areas

watersports & recreational center . boutique

meeting rooms . kids club . private residences

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zannierhotels


The Luxury of Altitude

Private helicopter journeys by Airport Helicopter offer glacier

landings, panoramic alpine flights, and seamlesse private transfers

across Europe - each tailored with Swiss discretion and precision.

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