my summer in Paris - Nouveau Paris Ile de France

nouveau.paris.ile.de.france.fr

my summer in Paris - Nouveau Paris Ile de France

summer

my

in paris

2012

exhibitions • walks • festivals • places to go

Let us be your guide

facebook / Paris Tourisme

new-paris-idf.com


The "My Summer in Paris" guide is edited by the Paris Ile-de-France Tourist Board - 11, rue du Faubourg Poissonnière –

F-75009 Paris. Publication Manager: Gérard Feldzer, Tourist Board President Tourist Board coordination: marketing and

communication department Design and production: Avis de Tempête. Printed in France, May 2012.

Please dispose of this guide responsibly.

Whilst every care has been taken in the writing and production of this guide, errors or inaccuracies cannot be completely

excluded. The programmes and rates mentioned here (non-contractual and excluding possible rental charges) have been

provided by the organisers of the events listed. The Tourist Board cannot be held responsible in the event of cancellations or

changes to the programme, in the case of rate changes or if there are errors or inaccuracies.

Photos CRT IDF : Carnet, Tripelon-Jarry, Prunevieille, Spera, Greboval, Giansily, Le Gac, Suze-Bouwmeester - CRT IDF

SIPAPRESS : Alfred, Alix, Castro, Chamussy, Jobard, Morel-Fort, Revelli-Beaumont,Trousse, Sadaka - Alvin Ailey, night

creature, © Krautbauer - Monumenta 2012, © Daniel Buren, ADAGP, Paris, © Plowy - Burton, the Walt Disney Company - Etés

de la danse 2012, Paul B. Goode -Versailles, © Groupe F, Nava - RMN (Musée d'Orsay), Lewandowski - Octopus, Decoufl é Cie

DCA, © Lambours/Signatures - Bob Dylan, © Daniel Kramer - Tour de France, © EliteElites - © Disney.Pixar - © Louis Vuitton,

Moore - Al di Meola, © Cabras - Festival de Saint-Denis - Solidays - La Défense Jazz Festival, © Ravoire - Jones Sharon, Festival

Django Reinhardt, © Blickenstaff - Enghien Jazz Festival, Barrier - © MarOne - Green Day, © - Cité de la musique, © Rastoin -

Madame Butterfl y, © Doussin - We Love Green, © Sannier - Technopol - Festival d’Ile-de-France - © Mauro Melis - Paris à vélo,

Bicy - PhotoPointCom - © Musée d'Orsay, Boegly - 4 Roues Sous 1 parapluie - Arts Décoratifs, © Boegly - © Comte, Saut du

Loup. © Agathe Poupeney © Affi che Réunion des musées nationaux, Grand Palais - mondaymonday.fr, © William Beaucardet -

Getty images - © Cabaret Sauvage - Ptérodactyles 3D, Atlantic Productions, Sky 3D - Laurent Philippe, Cie DCA - © Christophe

Raynaud de Lage - © Li Wei - © Think Ringo - © CDT 93 - © Pierre Olcese - © Fernanda Tafner - © Michel Durand - © La

Bellevilloise - Atout France, Charaffi - © Franck Parisot - © Laurent Brémond - © Mairie du 20e , association Paris culture 20e -

© © © © Sébastien Damoiseau - NKB Architectes & Associés, Roberto Ostinelli studio di architettura - Bercy Village - Ian Rivera -

© © © © © © Ganapies de la UAB - Christophe Raynaud De Lage - Pestacles - Didier Pazery - Julien Valle - Bénédicte de Changy

© © © © © Festival de l’Orangerie de Sceaux - Olivier Robert - Artus Boutin - RMN - Pascal Thiebaut - Groupe Lucien Barrière,

© © © Rambert - Ginette Laurin – Eglise d’Auvers, Van Gogh, Musée d’Orsay, Paris.

How lucky you are to be in

Paris Ile-de-France, where

everything is possible this

summer! When the warm

weather comes we celebrate

the 'great escape', and the

capital and its region are

transformed. Culture galore,

walks, parades, beaches on

the banks, countryside in

the city, waterside terraces,

picnics, music festivals, visual

and performing arts, cinema -

the list is never-ending!

Here, summer is all about

having fun, trying new

things and enjoying beautiful

surroundings, great ideas and

good deals.

Whether you've come alone,

as a couple or in a large group,

follow the guide to get the

most out of your trip. We give

you the basics, but it's up to

you to discover the rest!


Practical information p.4

Diary p.6

Events p.8

Music p.14

Districts p.20

Hôtel de Ville p.21

Tuileries, Louvre, Orsay p.24

Trocadéro, Tour Eiffel p.26

Champs-Élysées p.28

The canal Saint-Martin, the canal de l'Ourcq

and the Bassin de la Villette p.29

La Villette p.30

Montmartre and North Paris p.34

Ménilmontant and surroundings p.36

Around the Jardin des Plantes p.38

From Bibliothèque nationale de France to Bercy p.40

Vitry-sur-Seine, Antony, Châtenay-Malabry p.42

Bois de Vincennes and Parc Floral p.43

Provins and Meaux p.44

Fontainebleau, Vaux le Vicomte and Chamarande p.45

Boulogne, Saint-Cloud, Sceaux p.46

Versailles and Thoiry p.48

Enghien-les-Bains p.50

Auvers-sur-Oise p.51


Practical

information

GETTING AROUND

• BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT

With around 400 metro stations and 59 bus services, it’s easy to get

around in Paris. If you're going further afi eld, the RER lines and SNCF

Transilien services cover the whole of Paris and the surrounding region.

Metro trains run from 5:20 am to 1:15 am (2:15 am on Fridays, Saturdays

and the night before public holidays). RER trains run from 4:45 am to

1:30 am. Bus services run from 5:30 am to 8:30 pm (12:30 am on some

lines). Noctilien bus services run from 12:30 am to 5:30 am.

The Paris Visite deal lets you travel on all networks around Paris

and the surrounding region on a single ticket. It is valid for 1, 2, 3 or 5

consecutive days with various zone options. Discounts are available at

some tourist sites. On sale in metro station ticket offi ces, www.ratp.fr

To get to Auvers-sur-Oise, there is a direct Transilien SNCF service from

Paris Gare du Nord on Saturdays, Sundays and bank holidays: departs

MR

Paris

Asnières–Gennevilliers

Les Courtilles

Les Agnettes

Gabriel Péri

Saint-Ouen

Mairie

de St-Ouen

Carrefour

Pleyel

Basilique St-Denis–Université

de St-Denis

La Courneuve

St-Denis–Porte de Paris

Aubervilliers

La Courneuve

8 Mai 1945

Le Bourget

CDG

Stade de France

La Plaine

Fort

Garibaldi

St-Denis

Stade de France

d’Aubervilliers

Mairie

Aubervilliers–Pantin

Bobigny

de Clichy

Porte

Quatre Chemins

Pablo Picasso

Porte

Porte de Clignancourt

Porte

Pantin

32 46 • wap.ratp.fr Pont de Levallois

de Clichy

de St-Ouen

Simplon

de la Chapelle

www.ratp.fr

Bécon

Jules Marcadet

Guy

Lamarck

Joffrin

Bobigny–Pantin

Poissonniers Marx

Anatole France

Môquet

Porte de la Villette R. Queneau

Brochant

Caulaincourt

Dormoy

Louise Michel

Funiculaire de

Montmartre

Château Rouge

Corentin Cariou Église de Pantin

Porte de Champerret

La Fourche Abbesses

Barbès La

Crimée

La Défense

Pereire–Levallois Pereire

Blanche

Rochechouart Chapelle

Riquet Ourcq Porte Hoche

Place

Pigalle Anvers

Stalingrad

de Pantin

Esplanade

Wagram

Laumière

Rome

de La Défense

Malesherbes

de Clichy

Jaurès

Danube Pré Mairie

Gare du Nord

Pont de Neuilly

Villiers

Liège

St-Georges

Magenta

Bolivar

St-Gervais des Lilas

Louis

Monceau

Trinité

Notre-Dame Poissonnière

Botzaris

Les Sablons

d’Estienne

Blanc

Europe

Château Colonel Buttes

d'Orves de-Lorette

Porte Maillot

Courcelles

Gare Landon Fabien Chaumont

Gare St-Lazare

Cadet

Neuilly–Porte Maillot

Haussmann

de l’Est

Château

Belleville Pyrénées Jourdain Place Télégraphe Porte

Ternes

St-Lazare

St-Lazare

Le Peletier

d’Eau Jacques

des Fêtes

des Lilas

Argentine

St-Augustin

Chaussée d’Antin Richelieu

Bonsergent

Porte

Charles

Strasbourg

La Fayette Drouot

Couronnes

Saint-Fargeau

Avenue Foch

Miromesnil

St-Denis

Goncourt

Dauphine

de Gaulle

Étoile St-Philippe

Havre

du-Roule Caumartin Opéra

Grands Bonne

Ménilmontant

République

Pelleport

George V

Boulevards Nouvelle Temple

Auber

Réaumur

Arts et

Victor Hugo

Oberkampf

Père

Porte

Kléber Franklin

Quatre Septembre

Sébastopol

Métiers

Parmentier

de Bagnolet

D. Roosevelt

Pyramides

Bourse Sentier

Lachaise

Gallieni

Madeleine

Filles

Rue

Boissière Alma

Champs

Palais Royal

Étienne Marcel

du Calvaire

St-Maur

Gambetta

Châtelet

Philippe

Mairie

Marceau

Rue

Élysées

Musée du Louvre Les Halles Les Halles

St-Sébastien St-Ambroise

Avenue de la Pompe Iéna

Concorde

Rambuteau

Auguste de Montreuil

Clemenceau

Louvre Rivoli

Froissart

Richard

Croix de Chavaux

Henri

Pont

Hôtel de Ville

Voltaire

Martin

Trocadéro

Tuileries

Lenoir

Alexandre

de l’Alma Invalides

Musée d’Orsay

Pont Neuf Châtelet

Chemin Vert Bréguet

Dumas

Cité

Charonne

Robespierre

St-Paul

Sabin

Assemblée Nationale

Maraîchers

La Muette

St-Michel

Bastille

Avron

Porte

Passy La Tour Maubourg

Rue

de Montreuil

Boulainvilliers

Champ de Mars

Solférino

Notre-Dame Pont

Ledru-Rollin des Boulets

Tour Eiffel

Varenne

St-Germain

Marie Buzenval

Rue

St-Michel

Faidherbe

École

Cluny

Ranelagh

Bir-Hakeim

du Bac des-Prés

Sully

Chaligny

Avenue du

Militaire Saint

La Sorbonne Morland

Nation

Pdt Kennedy

Dupleix La Motte

François Sèvres

Pte de

Babylone

Mabillon Odéon

Maubert

St-Mandé

Picquet

Xavier

Gare

Mutualité

Reuilly–Diderot

Jasmin

Grenelle

St-Sulpice

Quai de

de Lyon

Vincennes

Avenue

Vaneau

Luxembourg

Jussieu

la Rapée

Montgallet

Rennes

Picpus

Émile Zola

Duroc

Cardinal

Bérault

Michel-Ange Église Javel

St-Placide

Auteuil

Notre-Dame Lemoine

Bel-Air

d’Auteuil

Cambronne Ségur

Gare

Porte

Montparnasse des-Champs

Place Monge d’Austerlitz

Daumesnil

d’Auteuil

Charles

Michel Bizot

Château

Mirabeau Javel Michels Commerce

Falguière Bienvenüe

Vavin

Port-Royal

de Vincennes

Censier

André

Sèvres

Daubenton

Michel-Ange

Citroën

Lecourbe Pasteur

Saint

Dugommier

Porte Dorée

Chardon

Edgar

Molitor

Félix Faure

Les

Marcel

Bercy

Lagache

Gare Quinet Raspail Denfert

Gobelins

Porte de Charenton

Pont

Montparnasse

Rochereau

Campo Quai

Boulogne

Cour

Exelmans

Volontaires

Gaîté

Formio de la Gare St-Émilion

Liberté

Jean Jaurès

du Garigliano

St-Jacques

Bd Victor

Boucicaut

Place

Mouton

Corvisart d’Italie Chevaleret

Charenton–Écoles

Marcel Porte

Vaugirard

Pernety Duvernet

Bibliothèque

de St-Cloud

Lourmel

Sembat

Glacière

Nationale Olympiades Fr. Mitterrand

Boulogne

Convention

Plaisance

Alésia

Tolbiac

École Vétérinaire

Maison

Porte

de Maisons-Alfort

Pont de St-Cloud

Balard

Cité

d’Italie Porte d’Ivry

Porte de Versailles Pte de Vanves

Universitaire Blanche

Pierre Ivry

Maisons-Alfort–Stade

Billancourt

Issy

et Marie sur-Seine Maisons-Alfort

Val de Seine

Porte

Le Kremlin

Porte

Curie

Pont

Les Juilliottes

Corentin Celton Malakoff

d’Orléans

Gentilly Bicêtre

de Sèvres

Villejuif de Choisy

Plateau de Vanves

Créteil–L’Échat

Léo Lagrange Mairie d’Ivry

Malakoff

Vitry

Créteil–Université

Issy

Mairie d’Issy

Orlyval

Rue Étienne Dolet

Antony tarification

Villejuif

sur-Seine

Créteil–Préfecture

spéciale

Paul Vaillant-Couturier

Châtillon–Montrouge

Orly

Villejuif

Louis Aragon

Créteil

Pointe du Lac

Propriété de la RATP - Agence Cartographique - PMI 10-2011 - BO Design: bdcconseil - Reproduction interdite

Grande Arche

at 10:08, arrives Auvers at 10:43. Return from Auvers departing at 18:06

(arrives Paris at 18:39). Page 51 in the guide.

• BY BIKE

With Vélib, the 24/7 self-service bike system perfect for short journeys.

There are a wide range of bike parks in Paris and the surrounding region.

www.velib.paris.fr

• BY BOAT

With Batobus, the Seine shuttle service. It offers 8 stops between

the Eiffel Tower and the Jardin des Plantes. Port de la Bourdonnais

(Bir Hakeim metro station). +33 (0)825 01 01 01 (15 cts per min).

www.batobus.com

• BY BUS

With Open Tour and Les Cars Rouges who offer tours of Paris on

double-decker buses. Get on and off as often as you like at a wide

range of stops.

Open Tour, +33 (0)1 42 66 56 56. www.parislopentour.com.

Les Cars Rouges, +33 (0)1 53 953 953. www.carsrouges.fr

Cityrama offers a range of day or half-day coach or minibus trips

exploring Paris and its surroundings, and a return trip and ticket service

for Provins, Fontainebleau, Vaux le Vicomte, Versailles and Thoiry (see

guide p.44 and p.49).

+33 (0)1 44 55 60 00. www.pariscityvision.com


49

Thoiry château

and wildlife park

46

Saint-Cloud

Château de Versailles

48

VISIT

46

Boulogne

51 Auvers-sur-Oise

26

Tour Eiffel

Trocadero

Enghien-les-Bains

50

Champs-Élysées

28

46

Sceaux

• PARIS MUSEUM PASS

The Paris Museum Pass provides unlimited no-queuing

access to more than 60 museums and monuments in

Paris and the surrounding region as well as access to

museums’ permanent collections.

Three options are available: 2-day pass (€39), 4-day

pass (€54) or 6-day pass (€69).

On sale at participating locations.

www.parismuseumpass.fr

• MUSEUMS AND NATIONAL

MONUMENTS

Entrance is free for young people under 26 from the

European Community, and for everyone on the fi rst

Sunday of each month.

• PARIS MUNICIPAL MUSEUMS

Entrance to the permanent collections of museums

belonging to the City of Paris is free.

Le Louvre

Tuileries

24

34

Montmartre

North Paris

21

Hôtel de Ville

38

Jussieu-Austerlitz 40

Vitry-sur-Seine

29 Canal de l'Ourcq

42

45

Chamarande

30

La Villette

GET INFORMATION,

MAKE A BOOKING

Get information, make a booking

and purchase tourist products or

tickets at the Tourist Information

Points at Paris-Roissy Charles de

Gaulle airport (Terminals 2C, 2D, 2E,

2F et T1), Paris-Orly South and West

as you disembark from your aircraft

and at Disneyland Paris, Versailles

(2bis Avenue de Paris) and Giverny

(Maison de Monet, during high

season).

36

Parc de

Ménilmontant

Bibliothèque

nationale

de France

Bercy

45

Parc Floral

43

44

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

Meaux

45 Château de Fontainebleau

PLEASE NOTE

During the summer, 14 July and 15

August are public holidays in France.

Most shops are open every day from 9

or 10 am to 7 or 8 pm, except Sundays.

In some tourist areas, and at certain

times of year or during the sales, shops

are open on Sundays (e.g. on the

Champs-Elysées, in Bercy Village, etc).

This year, the summer sales will take

place from 27 June to 31 July.

44 Provins

5


Diary

Get a selection of events at a

glance here, and read more about

about them on pages 8 – 19.

1 st to 17 June

The 2012 French Open - Roland Garros

(until 10 June > p 9)

Compagnie DCA Philippe Decouflé:

shows and exhibition

(until 15 July > p 10)

Gerhard Richter

(until 24 September > p 13)

Monumenta 2012 - Daniel Buren

(until 21 June > p 9)

Festival de Saint-Denis and Métis

(until 30 June > p 15)

Degas and the Nude

(until 1 July > p 9)

Bob Dylan, the rock explosion (61-66)

(until 22 July > p 10)

Tim Burton, the exhibition

(until 5 August > p 11)

Aïda, open-air opera

(until 15 September > p 18)

Louis Vuitton - Marc Jacobs

(until 16 September > p 12)

Festivities at the Château de Versailles

(until 28 October > p 13)

Disneyland Paris is 20!

(until 2013 > p 13)

6

18 to 30 June

Monumenta 2012 - Daniel Buren

(until 21 June > p 9)

Fête de la musique

(21 June > p 15)

Les Étés de la Danse

(19 June to 21 July > p 11)

Solidays

(22 to 24 June > p 15)

Paris Hip Hop 2012

(22 June to 4 July > p 17)

La Défense Jazz Festival

(23 June to 1 July > p 16)

Enghien Jazz Festival

(27 June to 1 July > p 16)

Festival Django Reinhardt

(27 June to 1 July > p 16)

Gay Pride and Paris Circuit Party

(28 June to 1 July > p 17)

Festival de Saint-Denis and Métis

(until 30 June > p 14)

Days Off

(30 June to 9 July > p 17)

Degas and the Nude

(until 1 July > p 9)

Compagnie DCA Philippe Decouflé:

shows and exhibition

(until 15 July > p 10)

Bob Dylan, the rock explosion (61-66)

(until 22 July > p 10)

Tim Burton, the exhibition

(until 5 August > p 11)

Aïda, open-air opera

(until 15 September > p 18)

Louis Vuitton - Marc Jacobs

(until 16 September > p 12)

Gerhard Richter

(until 24 September > p 13)

Festivities at the Château de Versailles

(until 28 October > p 13)

Disneyland Paris is 20!

(until 2013 > p 13)

1 st to 15 July

Paris Hip Hop 2012

(until 4 July > p 17)

Days Off

(until 9 July > p 17)

Bastille Day Celebrations

(13 and 14 juillet > p 10)

Compagnie DCA Philippe Decouflé :

shows and exhibitions

(until 15 July > p 10)

Les Étés de la Danse

(until 21 July > p 11)

Bob Dylan, the rock explosion (61-66)

(until 22 July > p 10)

Tim Burton, the exhibition

(until 5 August > p 11)

Aïda, open-air opera

(until 15 September > p 18)

Louis Vuitton - Marc Jacobs

(until 16 September > p 12)

Gerhard Richter

(until 24 September > p 13)

Festivities at the Château de Versailles

(until 28 October > p 13)

Disneyland Paris is 20!

(until 2013 > p 13)


16 to 31 July

99 th Tour de France finish

(22 July > p 11)

Les Étés de la Danse

(until 21 July > p 11)

Bob Dylan, the rock explosion (61-66)

(until 22 July > p 10)

Paris Plages

(20 July to 19 August > p 12)

Open-air cinema

(25 July to 26 August > p 12)

Tim Burton, the exhibition

(until 5 August > p 11)

Aïda, open-air opera

(until 15 September > p 18)

Louis Vuitton - Marc Jacobs

(until 16 September > p 12)

Gerhard Richter

(until 24 September > p 13)

Festivities at the Château de Versailles

(until 28 October > p 13)

Disneyland Paris is 20!

(until 2013 > p 13)

1 st to 15 August

Tim Burton, the exhibition

(until 5 August > p 11)

Paris Plages

(until 19 August > p 12)

Open-air cinema

(until 26 August > p 12)

Aïda, open-air opera

(until 15 September > p 18)

Louis Vuitton - Marc Jacobs

(until 16 September > p 12)

Gerhard Richter

(until 24 September > p 13)

Festivities at the Château de Versailles

(until 28 October > p 13)

Disneyland Paris is 20!

(until 2013 > p 13)

16 to 31 August

Rock en Seine

(24 to 26 August > p 18)

Open-air cinema

(until 26 August > p 12)

Jazz à La Villette

(28 August to 9 September > p 18)

Aïda, open-air opera

(until 15 September > p 18)

Louis Vuitton - Marc Jacobs

(until 16 September > p 12)

Gerhard Richter

(until 24 September > p 13)

Festivities at the Château de Versailles

(until 28 October > p 13)

Disneyland Paris is 20!

(until 2013 > p 13)

EXPLORE PARIS AND THE SURROUNDING REGION, pages 20 - 51

30 ideas for

EXHIBITIONS

25 ideas for

WHAT TO VISIT

1 st to 16 September

Jazz à La Villette

(until 9 September > p 18)

We Love Green

(14 to 16 September > p 19)

Techno Parade

(15 September > p 19)

Festival d’Ile-de-France

(8 September to 14 October > p 19)

Aïda, open-air opera

(until 15 September > p 18)

Louis Vuitton - Marc Jacobs

(until 16 September > p 12)

Gerhard Richter

(until 24 September > p 13)

Festivities at the Château de Versailles

(until 28 October > p 13)

Disneyland Paris is 20!

(until 2013 > p 13)

30 ideas for

MUSIC AND SHOWS

20 ideas for

THINGS TO DO OUTDOORS

25 ideas for

FESTIVALS AND CINEMA

20 ideas to

HELP YOU TAKE A BREAK

7


events

Summer’s coming, and

there is an endless list of

things to do in Paris and

the surrounding region,

with outstanding events

for all ages, budgets and

tastes. So what do you

fancy? Contemporary

dance or a theme park?

A tennis tournament or

open-air cinema? An art

exhibition... or lounging

on the beach?

8 Stay in touch via Paris Tourisme and new-paris-idf.com


The 2012 French Open

Roland Garros

22 MAY TO 10 JUNE

STADE ROLAND GARROS, PARIS 16 TH ARRONDISSEMENT

In 2011 Na Li and Rafael Nadal took the women’s and men’s

singles titles at the French Open, the second Grand Slam

tournament after the Australian Open. Every spring the top

tennis players in the world go head-to-head on the clay courts

of Roland Garros, at the heart of Porte d’Auteuil. Which makes

for a memorable day out in this historic stadium, whether or not

you’re a tennis fan. Roland Garros is not just a sporting event,

but a celebrity gathering point, and there’s plenty to be seen offcourt

on the paths, in the stands and on restaurant and brasserie

terraces around the venue. Don’t forget your designer sunglasses!

2 Ave Gordon-Bennett. Metro station: Porte d’Auteuil.

http://rolandgarros.fft-tickets.com

Monumenta 2012

Daniel Buren

« Excentrique(s) »,

travail in situ

UNTIL 21 JUNE

NAVE OF THE GRAND PALAIS, PARIS 8 TH ARRONDISSEMENT

Since 2007, Monumenta has invited major international

contemporary artists to take over the 13,500 m2 and

35m high Nave at the Grand Palais, with an all-new piece

created especially for the location. For its fi fth year, Daniel

Buren seemed the obvious choice. The artist has worked on

transforming the most complex spaces and famous sites for

fi fty years, like the Guggenheim Museum, New York and the

Cour d’honneur of the Palais Royal, and the Grand Palais

suits him down to the ground. Once again he works closely

with outstanding architecture to shake our perceptions.

Ave du Général-Eisenhower. Metro station: Champs-Elysées

Clemenceau. Mondays and Wednesdays, 10 am - 7 pm. Thursday to

Sunday, 10 am - midnight.

www.monumenta.com

Degas and the Nude

UNTIL 1 JULY

MUSÉE D’ORSAY, PARIS 7 TH ARRONDISSEMENT

Following events in honour of Manet and Monet, this is the

fi rst major exhibition dedicated to Edgar Degas in Paris since

1988. It epitomises the Musée d’Orsay’s desire to present

advances in understanding the great masters of the second

half of the 19th century. Some of the artist’s favourite themes,

like dance or horse-racing have been dealt with extensively,

but the same cannot be said for the nude. This recurring

motif in Degas’ work is explored in paintings, prints, pastel

works, photography and sculpture thanks to the extensive

collections of the Musée d’Orsay, the Boston Museum of Fine

Arts who is co-organising the exhibition and the exceptional

works on loan from major collections.

1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur. Metro station: Solférino. Every day

except Mondays, 9:30 am - 6:00 pm, Thursdays until 9:45 pm.

+33 (0)1 40 49 48 14. www.musee-orsay.fr

free partly free to do as a family

See

also

p. 28

See

also

p. 24

9


Bastille Day Celebrations

13 AND 14 JULY

PARIS

Throngs of people party, French fl ags fl y high, and the

combination of a parade, fi reworks and celebration balls

make the 14th July celebrations an annual hit. It all kicks off

with the Bal des Pompiers on 13 July in all participating fi re

stations! Get down and have fun with the crowds of people

there for the occasion. Then on 14 July, there is a grand

military parade down the Champs-Élysées, from Place

Charles-de-Gaulle (formerly Place de l’Etoile) to Place de la

Concorde. The fi reworks display starts from 11 pm around the

Eiffel Tower, on the Champ-de-Mars and Place du Trocadéro.

Fancy something special? Climb aboard the Bastille Day

dinner cruise with an orchestra, gourmet menu and the lights

of Paris along the Seine... a magical experience!

Bastille day dinner cruise, www.bateauxparisiens.com

Bob Dylan, the rock

explosion (61-66)

UNTIL 22 JULY

CITÉ DE LA MUSIQUE, PARIS 19 TH ARRONDISSEMENT

10

See

also

p. 32

Bob Dylan’s style evolved over the years, covering rock, folk,

country and blues. The period between 1961 and 1966 in his

exceptionally long career is defi nitive, marked by legendary

albums and social protest. From his arrival in New York to

his motorcycle accident, the exhibition by the Grammy

Museum, Los Angeles retraces the landmark moments of the

musician’s development that created a musical revolution

and shook the very foundations of society. This extraordinary

story is told through never-before-seen photos, objects, rare

documents and audiovisual archives.

221 Ave Jean-Jaurès. Metro station: Porte de Pantin. Tuesday to

Thursday, 12 pm - 6 pm, Fridays and Saturdays, 12 pm – 10 pm,

Sundays, 10 pm – 18 pm +33 (0)1 44 84 44 84

www.citedelamusique.fr

Compagnie DCA

Philippe Decoufl é:

shows and exhibition

6 JUNE TO 15 JULY

See

also

p. 31

GRANDE HALLE DE LA VILLETTE, PARIS 19 TH ARRONDISSEMENT

This most popular contemporary dance choreographer is

coming to Paris with an exhibition and two shows. Panorama

offers a series of lively scenes from the Compagnie DCA’s

repertoire since 1983. Le Solo is a kind of dance monologue

portraying aspects of human life and feeling. Opticon is

a giant exhibition dedicated to the fantastic aspects of

the choreographer’s work, based around his key themes:

kaleidoscope, video effects and shadows...

211 Ave Jean-Jaurès. Metro station: Porte de Pantin.

+33 (0)1 40 03 75 75. www.villette.com

Panorama: 6 June - 1 July, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays

8:30 pm, Thursdays 7:30 pm, Sundays 6 pm.

Le Solo: 4, 5, 6, 7, 11, 12, 13 and 14 July, Wednesdays, Fridays

and Saturdays 8:30 pm, Thursdays 7:30 pm.

Opticon: 6 June - 15 July, Wednesday to Sunday 2 pm – 8 pm.


99 th Tour de France

fi nish

22 JULY

See

also

p. 28

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES, PARIS 8 TH ARRONDISSEMENT

Some two hundred cyclists leave Liège on 30 June to take part

in this epic race. The Tour de France will fi nish 3,479 km and

twenty stages later on “the most beautiful avenue in the world”,

as has been the tradition since 1975. Those who cross the fi nish

line will have successfully ascended the Col du Grand Colombier

in the Jura Mountains and the Mur de Péguère and Peyragudes

in the Pyrenees… and much more. The fi nal sprint is broadcast

in 190 countries, and is always a heart-pumping moment full of

excitement – especially if you’re actually there!

www.letour.fr

Note: metro stations may be closed along the race course.

Les Étés de la Danse

19 JUNE TO 21 JULY

THÉÂTRE DU CHÂTELET AND THÉÂTRE DE CHAILLOT,

PARIS 1 ST AND 16 TH ARRONDISSEMENT

See

also

p. 23 & 26

Renowned companies and dancers bring original

programmes to this festival every year. This year, the Alvin

Ailey American Dance Theater will be performing twentyeight

performances of fi fteen ballets, nine of which are new

to their repertoire, on alternate dates overseen by Robert

Battle, their new artistic director. And for the fi rst time in Paris

in twelve years, the Paul Taylor Dance Company will be giving

ten exceptional “classical” performances including some new

productions.

+33 (0)1 42 68 22 14. www.lesetesdeladanse.com

25 June – 21 July, Alvin Ailey at the Châtelet, 1 Place du Châtelet.

Metro station: Châtelet.

+33 (0)1 40 28 28 40. www.chatelet-theatre.com

19-28 June, Paul Taylor at the Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadéro.

Metro station: Trocadéro.

+33 (0)1 53 65 30 00. www.theatre-chaillot.fr

Tim Burton, the exhibition

UNTIL 5 AUGUST

CINÉMATHÈQUE FRANÇAISE, PARIS 12 TH ARRONDISSEMENT

What a spectacle! This amazing exhibition designed by MoMa

in New York recreates the world of Tim Burton, the artist’s

creative workshop and the intimate realm of his imagination,

through drawings, photos, fi gurines, objects and colourful

sculptures. Discover his fi rst drawings and his work with

Disney, before his big break as a director of the now legendary

Beetlejuice, Edward Scissorhands and many others. The

exhibition is also a great chance to see all his fi lms again,

including his rarely seen short fi lms. Ghosts, superheroes,

aliens, emotional and macabre creatures based on childish

nightmares and B movies... all things Burton are there!

51 Rue de Bercy. Metro station: Bercy. Mondays and Wednesdays,

noon - 7 pm, Thursdays and Fridays, noon - 10 pm. Weekends, bank

holidays and school holidays, 10 am – 8 pm. +33 (0)1 71 19 33 33

www.cinematheque.fr

free partly free to do as a family

See

also

p. 41

11


Louis Vuitton

Marc Jacobs

UNTIL 16 SEPTEMBER

12

See

also

p. 25

LES ARTS DÉCORATIFS, PARIS 1 ST ARRONDISSEMENT

This exhibition looks at two people and their contribution to

the world of fashion. Vuitton founded his company in 1854,

specialising in “fashionable luggage”. Jacobs graduated

from Parson’s School of Design in New York in 1984 and was

appointed artistic director of Louis Vuitton in 1997, where he

launched its fi rst prêt-à-porter collections. They are both

representative of their times, and capture its spirit in their

innovation. One created the iconic Damier canvas suitcases.

The other has been creating his designs under the famous LV

Monogram for fi fteen years...

107 Rue de Rivoli. Metro station: Palais-Royal – Musée du Louvre.

Tuesday to Sunday, 11 am - 6 pm, Thursdays until 9 pm.

+33 (0)1 44 55 57 50. www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr

Paris Plages

20 JULY TO 19 AUGUST

See

also

p. 22

PARIS 1 ST , 4 TH AND 19 TH ARRONDISSEMENTS

A whole month of free seaside activities is in store! So

it’s not quite the “Med”, but there is defi nitely a seaside

atmosphere, with a beach on the Right Bank of the Seine

and water activities at the Bassin de la Villette. Sand, palm

trees, deckchairs, cafés and ice-cream parlours, a swimming

pool and sprinkler garden, beach games and sandcastle

competitions... all the delights of the beach come together

for the 11th year running. And as they say, you better get

ready to rumble! Boules, aquarobics, Tai chi, dancing...

plus a load of cultural activities to the sounds of the

Festival Fnac Live.

From Pont Neuf to Square de l’Hôtel de Ville.

Metro stations: Pont Neuf, Châtelet.

Bassin de la Villette. Metro stations: Stalingrad, Jaurès.

Every day from 9 am to midnight.

Open-air cinema

25 JULY TO 26 AUGUST

LA VILLETTE, PARIS 19 TH ARRONDISSEMENT

See

also

p. 31

Same time, same place, same magic! After a huge picnic

on the grass or in a rented deckchair, night falls, the giant

screen comes to life and the show begins. For the 22nd year

running, the legendary Cinéma en Plein Air has come up with

a programme on the theme of metamorphosis. “Classics”

mix with epics and foreign fi lms, and some new approaches

are explored: there are special evenings dedicated to other

fi lm genres such as animation, live music and fi lms, short and

medium format fi lms, web documentaries and fi ction, trailers

etc. In short, this is a selection of the latest and greatest

attempts to recreate the genre of cinema.

Prairie du Triangle, 211 Ave Jean-Jaurès. Metro station: Porte de

Pantin. Wednesday to Sunday, at nightfall.

+33 (0)1 40 03 75 75. www.villette.com


Château de Versailles

UNTIL 28 OCTOBER

CHÂTEAU DE VERSAILLES

See

also

p. 48

MUSICAL GARDENS

(LES JARDINS MUSICAUX)

A musical stroll amidst the statues of the French gardens

conceived by Le Nôtre.

Tuesdays, from 3 July to 23 October, 9 am - 6:30 pm.

MUSICAL FOUNTAINS SHOW

(LES GRANDES EAUX MUSICALES)

See the fountains and groves dancing to music.

Saturdays and Sundays until 28 October, Tuesdays until 26 June,

14 July and 15 August, 9 am - 6:30 pm.

THE ROYAL SERENADE IN THE HALL OF

MIRRORS (LA SÉRÉNADE ROYALE DE LA

GALERIE DES GLACES)

Before the Fountains Night show, take a tour from the King’s

Chambers to the Hall of Mirrors, to the sound of a Louis XIVstyle

serenade, with musicians and dancers leading a typical

French ball.

Saturdays, from 16 June to 1 September and Friday 7 September.

Every 20 minutes, from 6:40 pm to 7:55 pm.

FOUNTAINS NIGHT SHOW

(LES GRANDES EAUX NOCTURNES)

As night falls, explore the gardens of Louis XIV with lights,

music and water effects. Groupe F will then be launching

fi reworks over the Grand Canal to fi nish off the evening.

Mind-blowing!

Saturdays, from 16 June to 1 September and Friday 7 September,

9:00 pm – 11:20 pm.

+33 (0)1 30 83 78 89. www.chateauversaillesspectacles.fr

From Paris: RER line C to Versailles Rive Gauche or SNCF

Montparnasse or Saint-Lazare station, or Cityrama return coach

trip and ticket service on Saturdays.

+33 (0)1 44 55 60 00. www.pariscityvision.com

Gerhard Richter

UNTIL 24 SEPTEMBER

CENTRE POMPIDOU, PARIS 4 TH ARRONDISSEMENT

Gerhard Richter was born in 1932 and is considered to be one

of the greatest painters of the last fi fty years still alive. This

exhibition looks back on his career from the 1960s to today,

with around one hundred and sixty pieces.

Place Georges-Pompidou. Metro station: Rambuteau.

Every day except Tuesdays, 11 am - 9 pm, Thursdays until 11 pm.

+33 (0)1 44 78 12 33. www.centrepompidou.fr

Disneyland Paris is 20!

UNTIL SPRING 2013

MARNE-LA-VALLÉE

See

also

p. 21

A dazzling celebration! Disneyland has big plans for its 20th birthday. An explosion of lights and colours bring several

new features to the event: the Disney Dreams ® night show,

Disney Magic on Parade and Disney’s 20th Anniversary

Celebration Train, make for magical moments meeting

your favourite characters, discovering Main Street, USA ® ’s

all-new make-over, and lots more surprises in store at the

Disneyland park, and the Walt Disney Studios park next door.

+33 (0)825 300 222. www.disneylandparis.fr

RER line A to Chessy Marne-la-Vallée.

free partly free to do as a family 13


music

If you reckon that

classical music is just

for posh people; that

styles should be kept

well apart; that a good

festival always involves

camping in (preferably

muddy) fi elds; or that

guitars and trumpets

should be kept out of

churches... then get

ready to have your

preconceptions blown

away, and tune in to

what’s on offer!


Fête de la musique

21 JUNE

PARIS REGION

Pop was born in 1962 with the Beatles’ first single, ‘Love

me do’. In 2012, fifty years later, the Fête de la musique

celebrates this anniversary with some fantastic surprises. For

the thirty-first year, the summer solstice is being celebrated

with music. Paris and the surrounding towns vibrate with

songs as many and varied as there are different styles of

music. Every terrace hosts a singer and every crossroads a

stage; temporary dance floors appear on the streets and the

pavements bloom with bars and mini-canteens – it’s partytime!

Stars take turns to play huge concerts in the main

squares, while a flood of other free events take over cultural

venues, historical monuments, parks and gardens. Now you

just have to choose what to go to!

www.fetedelamusique.culture.fr

Solidays

22 TO 24 JUNE

PARIS 16 TH ARRONDISSEMENT

In its 14th year, this flagship festival for the Solidarité

Sida AIDS charity invites you to follow your musical and

charitable instinct. To this end, rock chic, electro choc and

world fusion music come back together at the Hippodrome

de Longchamp. The line-up includes The Kills, with their

only Paris date, and the crazy pumping DJs Birdy Nam Nam

and The Bloody Beetroots. And that’s not all – the festive

chaos also includes: Metronomy, Tiken Jah Fakoly, Orelsan,

Ayo, Selah Sue, Miles Kanes, Ben Howard and… surely there

can’t be more? Yes there can! Danakil, Tinariwen, Zebda,

Youssoupha, 1995, Charlie Winston, Garbage make their

return to the stage, Joey Starr, Amadou et Mariam, General

Elektriks and… watch this space! And, once again, there is a

real festival of musical and artistic discovery for children in

the Espace Kids.

Hippodrome de Longchamp, Bois de Boulogne. Metro station:

Boulogne Jean-Jaurès. www.solidays.org

Festival de Saint-Denis

& Métis

UNTIL 30 JUNE

SAINT-DENIS

This festival is in its 44th year and remains a key event on

the music scene with a high-quality but down-to-earth

programme. Once again, enjoy symphonic concerts in the

Basilique Cathédrale de Saint-Denis, with Mozart's Requiem

to open the festival, and Berlioz's to bring it to an end. And

there are recitals covering composers from Bach to Vivaldi at

the Maison de La Légion d’Honneur. Other highlights include

the world music concerts in the Métis section of the festival,

which will continue to explore the countries around the

Mediterranean. Ibrahim Maalouf and Ciel d’Athènes will also

be performing in New York, broadcast free on a big outdoor

screen. And Femi Kuti and Arthur H will be giving a free

concert on the open-air stage on the Basilica forecourt on

21 June and 22 June respectively.

Saint-Denis. Metro station: Saint-Denis Basilique. From Paris,

RER line D, Gare de Saint-Denis station. +33 (0)1 48 13 06 07

www.festival-saint-denis.com - www.metis-plainecommune.com

free partly free to do as a family 15


La Défense Jazz Festival

23 JUNE TO 1 JULY

LA DÉFENSE

Enghien Jazz Festival

27 JUNE TO 1 JULY

ENGHIEN-LES-BAINS

16

Over forty thousand festival-goers came to the Parvis de

la Défense in 2011, to attend concerts at this free festival.

The programme includes pure jazz events which promote

French artists, and performances somewhere between jazz

and blues, world music, electro, hip hop and rock music. After

the opening evening of 23 June, “Les midis du jazz” events

between noon and 2 pm will be hosting the likes of Charles

Bradley, Asaf Avidan and the Orchestre Poly-Rythmo from

Cotonou. The 35th French jazz competition will be held on the

afternoons of 29 and 30 June. And two big summer evenings

are in store with Gregory Porter and McCoy Tyner on 30 June,

and Cody Chesnutt and De La Soul Big Band on 1 July.

Esplanade de La Défense. From Paris, Metro, RER line A or T2 tram

to La Défense-Grande Arche station. +33 (0)1 47 29 30 48

www.hauts-de-seine.net

See

also

p. 50

It just keeps getting bigger! The Enghien Jazz Festival was

founded in 2000, and has quickly become a highlight for the

Paris region. Fourteen kilometres from the Champs-Élysées,

Enghien comes alive for fi ve days with around fi fty concerts

that are part of or associated with the festival on six stages

along the banks of this spa town with a festival village, dozens

of passionate artists and thousands of equally excited

festival-goers! Last year’s timetable was so popular that it is

being repeated in 2012 with free open-air performances in

the daytime, evening concerts at the Casino Barrière theatre,

and a huge surprise (for free) on the stage fl oating on the

lake on 30 July.

From Paris, SNCF Paris Gare du Nord station, Enghien-les-Bains.

+33 (0)1 39 34 10 80. www.enghien-jazz-festival.com

Festival Django Reinhardt

27 JUNE TO 1 JULY

SAMOIS-SUR-SEINE

Here we go for fi ve days bathed in jazz, on Ile du Berceau in

the pretty village of Samois-sur-Seine. Against the backdrop

of barges and the Makers' Village, fanatic volunteers, twenty

bands and around a hundred artists honour the swing and the

modern sound of Django Reinhardt. This is a place for mixing

genres, and that comes across loud and clear! Young people

from the Django Club mix with Stochelo Rosenberg, Biréli

Lagrène and other music legends. The legendary Dr John and

Sharon Jones, Queen of Soul, will also be there. Yom will be

performing on his clarinet, Ibrahim Maalouf will be sounding

the trumpet, while Sylvain Luc, Al Di Meola and Mike Stern

take to their guitars…

From Paris, SNCF Paris Gare de Lyon station to Fontainebleau-Avon.

+33 (0)8 11 74 77 73. www.festivaldjangoreinhardt.com


Gay Pride and

the Paris Circuit Party

28 JUNE TO 1 JULY

PARIS

Gay culture. Paris Circuit Party takes the party throughout

the city for the LGBT march in Paris on 30 June. Which

means a pumping stage at Place de la Bastille on 30 June,

exhibitions, fashion parades and seven different events.

Sixty dancers will be strutting their stuff and musicians will

have you dancing for hours, in seven amazing venues. From

midnight to dawn on 28 June, the Hunkut party from Brussels

will take to the Bastille stage. On 29 June, a huge club event

will be taking place at the Red Light, and on 30 June, at the

end of the Pride March, the Grande Arche at La Défense will

be the venue for the party and the after-party, on 1 July from

6 am to noon. Then head for a Tea Dance on 1 July on the

banks of the Seine, followed by the Closing Party at the 1515,

and a Closing After Party at the Crystal Lounge.

www.gaypride.fr

www.pariscircuitparty.com

Paris Hip Hop 2012

22 JUNE TO 4 JULY

PARIS REGION

Listen up now! The Hip Hop Citoyens association presents

this festival which in its seventh year will be focussing on the

Americas. The star group from Philadelphia, The Roots, are

headlining with an exclusive concert at the Zénith de Paris on

23 June. The festival welcomes all forms of artistic expression

associated with hip hop culture (rap, DJing, graffi ti, dance,

cinema and more), and includes over forty events that bring

together four hundred artists from all around the world at

a selection of the best venues in Paris and the surrounding

region.

www.paris-hiphop.com

Days Off

30 JUNE TO 9 JULY

See

also

p. 30

PARIS 8 TH AND 19 TH ARRONDISSEMENTS

Summer is here. In addition to their season of concerts,

the Cité de la Musique and Salle Pleyel present a festival

dedicated to unusual or never-before-seen projects, to

contemporary music artists from rock to electro, and

to developing connections with even more up-to-date

expressions. Highlights of this third event include: Steve

Reich & Bang on a Can, Antony and the Johnsons with the

Orchestre National d’Île-de-France, an evening on Brian

Eno with Icebreaker Ensemble and Mondkopf, Damien Rice

solo, Yann Tiersen, Hot Chip and more…

Cité de la musique, 221 Ave Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19th arrondissement.

Metro station: Porte de Pantin. +33 (0)1 44 84 44 84. Salle Pleyel,

252 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris 8th arrondissement.

Metro stations: Ternes and Charles de Gaule-Étoile.

+33 (0)1 42 56 13 13. www.daysoff.fr

free partly free to do as a family

17


Rock en Seine

24 TO 26 AUGUST

DOMAINE NATIONAL DE SAINT-CLOUD

18

See

also

p. 47

Fancy three days of pop-rock and electronic music in a

French park to fi nish off the summer in style? Just look at

the list of rockers who will be hitting the Domaine de Saint-

Cloud: Green Day, Placebo, The Black Keys on their only

French date, the revelation of the winter, Foster the People,

the sultry Sigur Rós, Mark Lanegan with some new numbers,

Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds... and plenty of surprises

to celebrate the festival’s 10th anniversary. Yes it’s true! This

festival was founded in 2003 and has become a key date on

the European calendar with its four stages, 108,000 festivalgoers

in 2011 and its programme that includes major stars

and the latest up-and-coming performers.

Metro station: Boulogne Pont de Saint-Cloud.

www.rockenseine.com

Jazz à La Villette

28 AUGUST TO 9 SEPTEMBER

PARIS 19 TH ARRONDISSEMENT

This festival could have been called “multiple jazz”. It is a joint

initiative of the Cité de la Musique and Parc de la Villette, and

has built itself a strong identity as place with an original view

of jazz music. Which this year’s programme only confi rms

with around thirty concerts which mix jazz with hip-hop,

soul, pop and funk. It’s a bubbling cauldron of creativity and

explosive encounters!

Cité de la musique, 221 Ave Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19th arrondissement.

Metro station: Porte de Pantin.

+33 (0)1 44 84 44 84. www.jazzalavillette.com

Aïda, open-air opera

31 MAY TO 15 SEPTEMBER

PARIS REGION

See

also

p. 30

See

also

p. 43 & 45

Twelve years of magic! Since 2001, the Opéra en plein air

open-air tours have been producing traditional operas in

the stunning setting of historical sites. Now it’s the turn of

Verdi’s Aïda. This “Egyptian-style" four-act Italian opera was

commissioned to celebrate the opening of the Suez canal

and was fi rst performed in 1871 in Cairo to immediate acclaim.

This year, Aïda, directed by Elie Chouraqui, is preparing to

delight the parks of the Domaine de Sceaux (31 May, 1 and 2

June), the Château de Vincennes (13 to 16 June), the Domaine

de Fontainebleau (22 and 23 June) and the Cour d’Honneur

at the Invalides in Paris (7, 8, 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15 September).

+33 (0)892 68 36 22. www.operaenpleinair.com


Techno Parade

15 SEPTEMBER

PARIS

A loud, colourful parade! The creativity of electronic cultures

takes to the streets of Paris following a different severalkilometre-long

route every year - music fi lls the air and

dance, digital arts, fi ne arts, street arts and more fi ll the

pavements. Sound systems blare as DJs spin their decks

riding their fl oats and the streets are transformed into a huge

dance fl oor. Join in the Techno Parade for a huge outdoor

party!

www.technoparade.fr

We Love Green

14 TO 16 SEPTEMBER

PARIS 16 TH ARRONDISSEMENT

This event is environmentally-friendly by design, and aims

to manage its environmental and social impact, and to raise

public awareness for the green cause. From its very fi rst year

in 2011 it entered the closed circle of the twelve festivals

recognised by the Greener Festival Award around the world.

Which we think is pretty good! We Love Green also decided

that environmentally-friendly citizenship could be fun! So

for three days, it will be producing green music at the Parc

de Bagatelle with an eclectic range of upbeat pop and rock,

psychedelic funk and green electro. The line-up includes

Norah Jones, The Rapture, Beirut, Camille, Klaxons, Django

Django, Electric gest and more. And there will also be fi lms,

exhibitions, organic food tasting, green events for kids and an

association area where you can meet Emmaüs, GoodPlanet,

GreenPeace, Universcience and WWF.

Parc de Bagatelle, Bois de Boulogne, Sèvres gate, access via Route

de Sèvres. Metro and RER line C station: Porte Maillot.

Free shuttles from Porte Maillot, 3 pm to midnight on Saturday

and Sunday. +33 (0)1 71 19 90 70. www.welovegreen.fr

free partly free to do as a family

See

also

p. 46

Festival d’Ile-de-France

8 SEPTEMBER TO 14 OCTOBER

PARIS REGION

Every year, this festival spreads its eclectic programme

around a number of sites in the Paris region. It is open to all

kinds of music: classical, baroque, jazz, world, electro music

and more… This year the theme is the music of Diasporas,

which it will cover with around thirty concerts. It starts on 8

September with a Nuit de l’accordéon at Le Trianon (Paris

18th arrondissement). This is followed on 9 September at

the Domaine de Villarceaux, with an event themed around

the melting pot of New York. On 14 September, a wandering

klezmer clarinet concert provides its contemporary vision of

the Diaspora. On 28 to 30 September, the Cirque d’Hiver will

be honouring Cesária Évora. On 4 October, the Gaîté lyrique

will be giving a trendy electro evening called ‘Génération

Berlin’ and on 13 October, we’ll be travelling to Beirut at the

Institut du Monde Arabe together with Zad Moultaka…

+33 (0)1 58 71 01 01. www.festival-idf.fr

19


districts

Every district in Paris

has its own museums

and monuments, all

steeped in history…

Every town or village

in the surrounding

region has its own

château, park and

lake. Whether you’re

here for the fi rst time

or on a return visit,

there’s a packed

summer of festivals,

events and surprises

waiting for you!

20 Stay in touch via Paris Tourisme and new-paris-idf.com


HÔTEL DE VILLE

and the heart of Paris

The heart of Paris is a delightful mixture of old stone and contemporary

architecture, narrow alleyways and wide open spaces close to the Seine.

It is home to a wonderful blend of classical art and urban culture, which

can be broken up by shopping breaks or time out to enjoy gourmet food.

EXHIBITION

• PLAY ALONG AT

THE GAÎTÉ LYRIQUE

26 June to 5 August

Since 2011, digital culture has been

making its mark at the Gaîté lyrique

through an eclectic programme. In

Play Along, you will fi nd yourself in a

building transformed into a life-sized

playground. Your mission? To explore

new ways to play in the 21st century,

with the aid of giant board games,

construction games... and video

games, of course! Play Along is no rigid

nostalgic exhibition: instead, it relies on

the interplay between the interactive

and the theatrical, with a series of

performances and sneak previews to

crown it off.

3 bis Rue Papin, Paris 3rd arrondissement.

Metro station: Réaumur-Sébastopol.

Tuesday to Saturday 2 pm - 8 pm, Sundays

2 pm - 6 pm. Tuesdays until 10 pm during the

exhibition period.

+33 (0) 1 53 01 51 51. www.gaite-lyrique.net

POMPIDOU CENTRE

This colourful and futuristic cruise liner

has been sailing the seas of culture and

modern and contemporary art since

1977. On board, you will fi nd the Musée

National d’Art Moderne, theatres, a

bookshop, a designer boutique and a

rich exhibition programme.

• MATISSE. PAIRS AND SETS

Until 18 June

This retrospective exhibition sheds light

on one of the most peculiar aspects

of Henri Matisse’s work, the repetition

of the same subject or motif, through

a selection of his masterpieces. These

sixty paintings, assembled together in

some cases for the fi rst time since the

era in which they were created, bring

together different kinds of framing,

outline, brushstroke and colour. All

the main periods are represented,

from the pointillist method featuring in

Luxe, Calme et Volupté in 1904 to the

découpage of the 1950s. The artist’s

work is thus on display in its entirety,

complete with his self-probings,

breaking-offs, turnarounds and

achievements.

See

p. 13

• GERHARD RICHTER

Until 24 September

This artist will be taking over the

Pompidou Centre: a whole four

months to discover half a century of

contemporary painting!

Hôtel de Ville

• ANRI SALA

Until 6 August

This exhibition, featuring four fi lms (moments captured

in Berlin, Bordeaux, Mexico City and Sarajevo) on a loop

accompanied by an amazing soundtrack, along with

sculptures, artefacts and photographs will transport

you into a kaleidoscopic universe. Anri Sala’s work

blends together images, sounds and architecture. This

installation is a presentation of all three, in keeping with

the Centre Pompidou’s approach of showcasing artists

at the forefront of the French scene.

• LE GEORGES

On the 6th and uppermost fl oor, Le Georges

restaurant, with its avant-garde décor, serves

extraordinary cocktails as well as an inventive cuisine

with a talent for reinterpreting classic dishes. It also

boasts one of the most spectacular terraces in Paris

with a breathtaking view.

Every day except Tuesdays, 11 am – 2 am. +33 (0)1 44 78 47 99

Place Georges-Pompidou, Paris 4th arrondissement.

Metro station: Rambuteau. Every day except Tuesdays,

11 am - 9 pm. +33 (0)1 44 78 12 33. www.centrepompidou.fr

free partly free to do as a family

21


HÔTEL DE VILLE

and the heart of Paris

MUSIC

• 100 % TEL-AVIV JAZZ FESTIVAL

5 to 7 June

A century ago it was just a humble little town on the outskirts of Jaffa: today Tel-Aviv

has become “a mini-New York”, such is the intensity of its cultural scene. For three days,

three clubs on Rue des Lombards will play host to the exuberant musical richness of Tel

Aviv, a city which comes alive at night. They will be recreating the local atmosphere, with

opportunities to taste regional delicacies and other surprises besides... On 5 and 6 June,

tickets priced at €25 give you entry to all three clubs!

Rue des Lombards, Paris 1st arrondissement. Metro station: Châtelet.

Le Baiser Salé, no. 58. +33 (0)1 42 33 37 71

Sunside, no. 60. +33 (0)1 40 26 46 60

Duc des Lombards, no. 42. +33 (0)1 42 33 22 88

www.parisjazzclub.net

• LES RENDEZ-VOUS DE LA LUNE

11 to 16 June

Jazz concerts, pop tunes, classical music and song

lyrics, all in a church? Whose crazy idea was that? The

acoustics are excellent in any case, in the intimate

setting of this music festival at the Eglise Saint-

Eustache. Those who have been once come back, so

tickets sell out quickly. This season’s highlights include

Mademoiselle K, La Fiancée, Sonia Wieder-Atherton,

Magik Malik and many more.

Eglise Saint-Eustache, Paris 2nd arrondissement.

Metro station: Les Halles.

www.madamelune.com

• SOIRS D’ÉTÉ

5 to 13 July

This eclectic and popular festival has

been setting up camp for fi fteen years

between the town hall and the Square

du Temple in the 3rd arrondissement.

Soirs d’été consists of two free

open-air concerts every evening:

you can hear rock, pop, soul, folk,

jazz, electro, klezmer, classic French

songs and much more. In the convivial

atmosphere of the early summer

nights, the fl oor is open to all styles of

music, to seasoned artists and rising

talent alike. This year, the festival will

be paying tribute to the Arab Spring.

Metro station: Temple. +33 (0)1 53 01 75 13

www.soirsdete.fr

CINEMA

• HOLLYWOOD MEETS PARIS

(PARIS VU PAR HOLLYWOOD)

Until 29 July

What do Vincente Minnelli’s Gigi, Billy

Wilder’s Irma la douce and Woody

Allen’s Midnight in Paris all have in

common? The City of Light, of course!

Hollywood simply loves Paris with its

cafés, beautiful women, cabarets, walks

along the Seine, the Eiffel Tower...

A truly idealized Paris is unveiled over

the course of these one hundred or so

American fi lms, presented almost as a

place of dreams. You’ll love it!

Forum des images,

Forum des Halles, porte Saint-Eustache,

Paris 1st arrondissement.

Metro station: Les Halles.

Tuesday to Friday, 12:30 pm - 11:30 pm.

Weekends, 2pm – 11:30 pm.

+33 (0)1 44 76 63 00

www.forumdesimages.fr

• FNAC LIVE FESTIVAL

19 to 22 July

Four nights of unforgettable concerts!

This festival is completely devoted to

music and completely free, and will be

taking over the square in front of the

Hôtel de Ville and basking in the festive

atmosphere of Paris Plages. Flying the

fl ag for openness and diversity in music,

it boasts a mouth-watering programme

of events. You’ll fall in love with headline

acts and newcomers alike: the very best

of today’s music and musicians will be

there. Check it out!

Paris 4 th arrondissement.

Metro station: Hôtel de Ville.

22 Stay in touch via Paris Tourisme and new-paris-idf.com

See

p. 12


OUTDOORS

• BICYCLE RENTAL AND BIKE TOUR

WITH PARIS À VÉLO, C’EST SYMPA!

What better way to explore the heart of the capital

than to take a guided bike ride – either by day or by

night? Start with a quick spin around the Marais up to

the Place des Vosges, before reaching the modern,

open spaces of the Beaubourg-Les Halles district.

Then head for Montorgueil, a hotspot for fashion and

creativity. You’ll pass the backdrop of the Palais Royal,

then make your way around the outside of the Louvre.

You end up on the banks of the Seine, which you can

cross to get a closer look at Notre-Dame... If you

enjoyed this route, entitled Heart of Paris, why not try

Paris Contrasts, Unusual Paris and Paris At Dawn?

+33 (0)1 48 87 60 01. www.parisvelosympa.com

• PARIS TREASURE HUNT

(CHASSE AUX TRÉSORS DE PARIS)

7 July

What can bring together 20,000 people for a huge game spreading

over twelve arrondissements in Paris, as well as the town of Saint-

Ouen? The Paris treasure hunt, of course, offering over sixty trails.

Everyone participates; associations and traders, tourists and locals

passionate about their neighbourhoods... Following in the footsteps

of a love-struck couple, the teams discover the romantic side of Paris,

all alleyways, secret passages and clandestine trysts. At the end of

the quest, everyone gets back together for the prize-giving and welldeserved

refreshments.

Sign up free on www.tresorsdeparis.fr or in person on 7 July.

Leaving from the town hall of each participating arrondissement between

10 am and 1 pm.

• THREE WALKING TOURS WITH CITYRAMA

Take the time to look around and marvel at your surroundings, as well

as learn a whole host of things, accompanied by an English-speaking

tour guide. With Paris Left Bank Latin Quarter and Notre Dame, listen

to anecdotes and learn historical details as you follow in the footsteps

of the Sorbonne scholars, the great men laid to rest in the Panthéon

and the cathedral builders. Feel you can walk some more? Cityrama also

offers its walk exploring The Marais Area: A Village in Paris under the

colourful charms of the old Jewish quarter, private mansions, museums,

art galleries and trendy boutiques. You may even set off in search of the

Hidden Treasures of Paris from the Palais Royal to Opéra Garnier.

2 Rue des Pyramides, Paris 1st arrondissement. Metro station: Tuileries.

+33 (0)1 44 55 60 00. www.pariscityvision.com

free partly free to do as a family

FESTIVAL

• LES ÉTÉS DE LA DANSE

19 June to 21 July

See

p. 11

The breath-taking Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater

will be headlining at the Châtelet theatre.

TAKE A BREAK

• PARIS EN SCÈNE DINNER-CRUISE

What’s on the menu? Choose between the “Formule

bistrot” (light option) or the gourmet “Chef étoilé”

meal. Prices are low and you pass Notre-Dame,

the Conciergerie, the Pont Neuf, the Passerelle des

Arts, the Louvre, the Place de la Concorde, the Pont

Alexandre III, the Musée du quai Branly, the Eiffel

Tower… As Paris unfolds before your eyes, enjoy the

on-board entertainment, with concerts, cabaret,

theatre evenings and much more…

Boarding at: 10 Quai des Orfèvres, Ile de la Cité,

Paris 1st arrondissement. Metro station: Pont Neuf.

+33 (0)1 41 41 90 70

23


THE TUILERIES, THE LOUVRE

AND THE ORSAY MUSEUM

on both banks of the Seine

It’s amazing how many legendary monuments and museums there are in this

area! And there’s no shortage of gardens either, where you can daydream

amongst the statues, cool off beside the ponds or treat yourself to a waffl e

or an ice-cream cone on a bench. Not to forget the romantic aura of the

Pont des Arts, a popular port of call for lovers...

WHAT TO VISIT

• LOUVRE MUSEUM

Does the building where the Mona Lisa

and the Venus de Milo reside along

with thousands of other celebrities,

really need any introduction? This

autumn, the new area allocated to the

Department of Islamic Art will open up

much-deserved space for the 18,000

works in its collection. It is the only one

of its kind in the world, as diverse as it is

rich. From here on and until the 25 June,

come and admire The Virgin and Child

with Saint Anne, Leonardo da Vinci’s

fi nal masterpiece. The exhibition is

centred around this painting, one of the

master’s most ambitious compositions,

which has just been restored.

Metro station: Palais-Royal – Musée du

Louvre.

Every day except Tuesdays, 9 am - 6 pm.

Wednesdays and Fridays until 9:45 pm.

+33 (0)1 40 20 53 17. www.louvre.fr

ORSAY MUSEUM FESTIVAL

• DESIGNER’S DAYS

Until 4 June

With over 90 locations both in Paris

and Pantin, this international design

week on the theme of Identity/Identities

celebrates creative dynamism in all its

forms: industrial innovation, decorative

arts, new ways of looking at materials,

shapes, furniture... Over fi ve days,

specially-created installations will

take over show-rooms, as well as the

• A NEW WAY OF EXPERIENCING

THE MUSEUM

After two years of renovation work, the new galleries

in the Orsay museum have just been unveiled in their

entirety. Beneath the huge clock in this former train

station, you can follow a redesigned path where the

masterpieces of the second half of the 19 th century

and the early 20 th century, including the prestigious

impressionist collection, are now displayed as they

deserve to be, while scores of previously unseen

items are fi nally accessible. The Café de l’Horloge,

completely transformed by the Campana brothers,

plays an important role in this new aesthetic

experience. Running from 12 June to 9 September,

Misia, Queen of Paris provides a very good opportunity

to rediscover the Musée d’Orsay, as access to this

exhibition includes the permanent collections.

• DEGAS AND THE NUDE

Until 1 July

The painter takes pride of place in the Musée d’Orsay, in

an exhibition focussing on one of his recurrent themes.

1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur – Paris 1 st arrondissement.

Metro station: Solférino.

Every day except Mondays, 9:30 am - 6 pm, Thursdays until

9:45 pm. +33 (0)1 40 49 48 14. www.musee-orsay.fr

Viaduc des Arts, the Ateliers de Paris,

various museums and even squares

and bridges. Until 23 June, the windows

of the Lafayette Maison shop on

Boulevard Haussmann will be hosting

Dutch Paradox, offering perspectives

on Dutch design.

Entry is free but booking is required.

Locations and calendar of events available

at www.designersdays.com

24 Stay in touch via Paris Tourisme and new-paris-idf.com

See

p. 9

Louvre


TAKE A BREAK

• COLETTE AND ITS WATER BAR

Colette is much more than a boutique: it is a bright 700 m2 concept

store which has been reinventing shopping since 1997. With its clever

mix of genres, you can forage here amongst high-quality literature

and an art gallery, a wide range of high-tech gadgets, a cuttingedge

fashion and beauty selection, musical compilations and more.

Exclusives, previews, limited editions, must-have items and vintage

brands are what this place is all about. That’s why people love to

wander round here before taking a break at the water bar. Yes, that’s

right, a water bar; with 90 varieties on the menu!

213 Rue Saint-Honoré – Paris 1st arrondissement. Metro station: Pyramides.

Every day except Sundays, 11 am – 7 pm. +33 (0)1 55 35 33 90. www.colette.fr

OUTDOORS

• DISCOVER UNKNOWN PARIS

ON A CRAZY ADVENTURE

Take a “spinin a convertible 2CV, the marvellous little car elevated

to the rank of national icon, starting at Place Vendôme at the Bastille.

While Paris unfolds before your eyes, a savvy, congenial driver

divulges the city’s secrets, sprinkled with anecdotes and surprising

little stories. You can even round off the escapade with a picnic

stashed in the boot. Tempted? Hop in then! 4 roues sous 1 parapluie

offers dozens of other trips across Paris and the wider region.

+33 (0) 800 800 631. www.4roues-sous-1parapluie.com

• TUILERIES

FAIRGROUND

22 June to 19 August

At the 1789 Revolution, the people

won the right to celebrate their

own sovereignty every year in this

garden, which once belonged to the

now deposed kings. However, this

festival still has a queen of sorts: the

Big Wheel, which offers a panoramic

view over Paris as far as the eye can

see. Once you’ve come back down to

earth, around sixty other attractions

await you: a ghost train, a merry-goround,

a rifl e range... lots of fun and

laughter topped off with plenty of

toffee apples and candy fl oss.

Jardin des Tuileries, Paris 1st arrondissement. Metro station: Tuileries.

Every day, 11 am - midnight. Fridays,

Saturdays and the night before public

holidays until 1 am.

www.feteforaine-jardindestuileries.com

MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ARTS

This is beautiful! One of the world’s most signifi cant collections of

decorative arts, displayed over several fl oors and ten chronological

and thematic sections, winding around a central gallery. There are

some truly wonderful exhibitions on offer:

• RICARD SA

SINCE 1932

Until 26 August

Colours, graphic design, famous

slogans, artefacts, sport,

contemporary art, design: here

you can savour the creativity of

this famous brand of aperitif to

your heart’s content!

• ADVENTURES

WITH BABAR

Until 2 September

At 80 years of age, Babar the

king of the elephants remains

one the most popular characters

in children’s literature, as much

with parents and grandparents

as with the children themselves.

The Toy Gallery recounts his

adventures since 1931.

• LOUIS VUITTON

MARC JACOBS

Until 16 September

free partly free to do as a family

See

p. 12

They’re at Les Arts Décoratifs too!

• TROMPE-L’ŒIL.

IMITATIONS,

PASTICHES AND

OTHER ILLUSIONS

Until November 2013

This cross-section of the

museum’s collections on the

theme of trompe-l’œil brings

together objects that have

rarely, or never, been displayed.

• LE SAUT DU LOUP

This is the very pleasant barrestaurant

in the Musée des Arts

Décoratifs. It has its own terrace,

is modern, elegant and opens

onto the Jardin des Tuileries.

+33 (0)1 42 25 49 55

www.lesautduloup.com

Decorative Arts

107 Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1 st

arrondissement. Metro station:

Palais-Royal – Musée du Louvre.

Tuesday to Sunday, 11 am – 6 pm,

Thursday until 9 pm.

+33 (0)1 44 55 57 50

www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr

25


TROCADÉRO AND THE EIFFEL TOWER

the peak of culture

Of course the Eiffel Tower stands tall and impressive... but one good thing

always leads to another, and there are also palaces dedicated to art and

culture all over Paris. Summer fever takes over the Jardins du Trocadéro,

the Parc du Champ-de-Mars, l’Esplanade des Invalides.

See

p. 11

FESTIVALS WHAT TO VISIT

• LES ÉTÉS DE LA DANSE

From 19 to 28 June

The Paul Taylor Dance Company

performs at the Théâtre National

de Chaillot.

• PARIS QUARTIER D’ÉTÉ

14 July to 15 August

This wonderfully avant-garde festival

encompasses different kinds of

performance, many of which are

outdoors, and reaches all over Paris and

the surrounding region. And it is largely

free! In 2012, after an explosive kick-off

on 14 July at Bercy Village, dance, music,

theatre and circus shows will be bringing

an air of the fantastic across the city

and even to the more sober atmosphere

of the Invalides. There are all kinds of

surprises in store...

+33 (0)1 44 94 98 00. www.quartierdete.com

Musée de l’Armée, Hôtel national des

Invalides, 129 Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7th arrondissement. Metro station: Invalides.

+33 (0)810 11 33 99. www.invalides.org

• AQUARIUM DE PARIS

“Much more than an aquarium” goes the motto. And

rightly so! The Aquarium de Paris is home to more

than ten thousand fi sh and invertebrates from the

French seas... including twenty-fi ve sharks in three

million litres of water. Amongst the forty-three tanks,

there’s even one where children can touch the fi sh.

Besides the main discovery trail, there are activities,

performances and cartoon screenings on the two

cinema screens – all the ingredients for a magical

family day out.

5 Ave Albert-de-Mun and 2 Ave des Nations Unies, Paris 16th arrondissement. Metro Station: Iéna. +33 (0)1 40 69 23 23

www.cineaqua.com

EXHIBITIONS

• LIGHTHOUSES

Until 4 November

Lighthouses are a symbol of the struggle against

the perils of the seas and an embodiment of all that

links the land and the ocean. They have captured our

imagination with their element of legend and mystique.

Over 1000 m2 of exhibition space, these beacons of

the sea are celebrated with 650 artefacts on display,

across three zones: a historical and scientifi c overview,

a look into the trades and tradesmen associated with

lighthouses and, fi nally, a sense of the mythical and

artistic aspects of these beautiful monuments. And

why not follow the exhibition with a tour of the Musée

National de la Marine’s exceptional collection? Take

note: your ticket gets you money off your Aquarium de

Paris ticket, and vice versa.

Musée National de la Marine, 17 Place du Trocadéro, Paris

16th arrondissement. Metro station: Trocadéro. Mondays,

Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays 11 am – 6 pm, Saturdays

and Sundays, 11 am – 7 pm.

+33 (0)1 53 65 69 53. www.musee-marine.fr

Eiffel Tower

• MOBILITY. HOW OUR

MOVEMENTS SHAPE CITIES

Until 26 August

The Cité de l’Architecture et du

Patrimoine is dedicating 1500 m2 of

fl oor space to a big exhibition on urban

transport, with a chronological, thematic

and interactive trail which has been built

like a stage set. Street reconstructions,

images, fi lms, and original soundtracks

transport you through time and space.

Young visitors can try out 1, 2, 3... Circulez

a play area for over-5 year olds, while

those over 7 can participate in the

workshop-tour.

1 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre,

Paris 16th arrondissement. Metro station:

Trocadéro. Mondays, Wednesdays and

Friday-Sunday 11 am – 7 pm, open until 9 pm

on Thursdays,

+33 (0)1 58 51 52 00. www.citechaillot.fr

26 Stay in touch via Paris Tourisme and new-paris-idf.com


PALAIS DE TOKYO

The quirky and ambitious Palais de Tokyo

is the archetypal anti-museum and

breaker of conventions, and this year it

will become one of Europe’s biggest sites

dedicated to contemporary art. Its floor

area has grown from 8000 to 22000 m 2 ,

with 5000 m 2 of exhibition space, a

book shop and a restaurant with its own

terrace…

• LA TRIENNALE 2012

INTENSE PROXIMITY

Until 26 August

La Triennale is the Palais de

Tokyo’s first large exhibition since

its reopening, and offers a broad

inventory of contemporary art,

where the French scene and the

powerhouses of international

creativity come together. Outside the

Palais de Tokyo, the exhibition spreads

out into seven associated venues in

Paris and the surrounding area.

• TOKYO EAT

Huge cartoon strips projected

against its equally huge windows

and enormous pink balls for lights:

the restaurant in the Palais de Tokyo

boasts, amongst other attributes, an

incredibly playful and colourful décor,

cuisine to match and an astounding

terrace looking onto the Eiffel Tower.

13 Ave du Président Wilson – Paris 16th arrondissement. Metro station: Iéna. Every

day except Tuesdays, 12 pm – midnight.

www.palaisdetokyo.com

La Triennale : www.latriennale.org

Tokyo Eat: Every day 12 pm – 2 am.

+33 (0)1 47 20 00 29

OUTDOORS

• “SUMMER IN PARIS FOR

DANCING” DINNER-CRUISE

This new 21/2 hour-long trip comes with

only the best ingredients: a tasty dinner, a

unique view of the capital’s most beautiful

monuments and a band to serenade you

as you dance to the best in French music

and summer tunes.

Bateaux Parisiens. Metro stations: Bir Hakeim,

Trocadéro. Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays

and every evening from 15 July to 31 August.

www.bateauxparisiens.com

free partly free to do as a family

QUAI BRANLY MUSEUM

• JARDIN D’ÉTÉ: CELEBRATING SERENITY

Until 2 September

The quai Branly museum nestles in greenery, and is offering you the opportunity to

experience sound-enhanced trails, chill to electronic music, listen to stories and enjoy

workshops, food tasting events and much more – all for free! Inside, art collections

from Oceania, Africa, Asia and the Americas await you, as well as the Les Séductions du

Palais Cuisiner et manger en Chine exhibition, from 19 June until 30 September and The

Masters of Disorder (Maîtres du désordre), until 29 July. The latter explores the notions

of order and disorder in the world, mixing together elements of chaos, shamanism,

voodoo, fetishes and works by Picasso, Messager and even Basquiat.

37 Quai Branly – Paris 7 th arrondissement. Metro station: Alma-Marceau. Tuesdays, Wednesdays

and Sundays, 11 am – 7 pm (garden open 9:15 am – 7:30 pm). Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays,

11 am – 9 pm (garden 9:15 am – 9:15 pm). +33 (0)1 56 61 70 00. www.quaibranly.fr

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART

• CRUMB. FROM THE

UNDERGROUND TO GENESIS

Until 19 August

This first retrospective exhibition

dedicated to Robert Crumb celebrates

the pioneer of the underground comic

and mythical figure of American counterculture.

Also at the museum of Modern Art this

summer...

Christopher Wool. One of the most

influential contemporary American

painters on the artistic scene is having his

first exhibition in Paris until 19 August.

Resisting the present.

Mexico 2000/2012 will be showing

around fifty works from twenty-four

politically-engaged Mexican artists until

8 July.

Sixty-one works by Giorgio de Chirico

recently bequeathed to the museum, are

on exclusive display until 1 st July.

• CAFÉ-TERRACE

Inside, you will find a sober décor under

a staggeringly high ceiling. On the other

side of the palatial colonnades: a terrace,

with parasols and a breathtaking view...

Treat yourself to this very reasonablypriced

experience.

Museum of Modern Art,

11 Ave du Président Wilson, Paris 16th arrondissement. Metro station: Iéna. Tuesday

to Sunday, 10 am – 6 pm, Thursday until 10 pm.

+33 (0)1 53 67 40 00. www.mam.paris.fr

Café: +33 (0)1 53 67 40 47

27


CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES,

high-class, luxury entertainment…

The Champs-Elysées has a mythical status throughout the world, with its

tree-lined pavements decorated with fountains and bandstands. It burgeons

with private mansions, theatres, luxury fashion and design, fl agship stores

and eateries for the refi ned palette...

GRAND PALAIS

• MONUMENTA 2012 - DANIEL BUREN

Until 21 June

This contemporary artist will be taking over

the nave of the Grand Palais.

See

p. 9

• HELMUT NEWTON

Until 17 June

Sud-Est Gallery. This is the photographer’s fi rst

retrospective exhibition since he died in 2004, and

includes over two hundred pictures, which are mainly

original prints. Controversial and sometimes shocking,

Newton’s work deals with the themes of beauty, power,

eroticism and humour.

• BEAUTÉ ANIMALE

Until 16 July

Since the Renaissance, the way we have depicted

animals has changed with the changing tides of

ethical and aesthetic criteria. From Dürer to Louise

Bourgeois’s Araignée, one hundred and twenty

paintings, drawings, sculptures and photographs come

together to make a wonderful menagerie combining

the strange and the familiar.

Galeries nationales du Grand Palais, 3 Avenue du Général-

Eisenhower (8th arrondissement). Metro station: Champs-

Élysées-Clemenceau. +33 (0)1 44 13 17 17. www.rmngp.fr

Helmut Newton: every day except Tuesdays, 10 am – 10 pm.

Beauté animale: every day except Tuesdays, 10 am - 8 pm.

Wednesdays until 10 pm.

WHAT TO VISIT

• PETIT PALAIS, PARIS FINE

ARTS MUSEUM

The exhibitions and collections in this

museum take you on an artistic journey

from antiquity to the beginning of the

20th century. But the Palace itself and

its early twentieth century architecture,

sculpted décor, mosaics and stained

glass windows are also worth a visit. As

is its café-restaurant which overlooks

the ponds in the courtyard garden.

Ave Winston-Churchill, Paris 8th arrondissement. Metro station: Champs-

Elysées Clemenceau. Tuesday to Sunday,

10 am to 6 pm. +33 (0)1 53 43 40 36

www.petitpalais.paris.fr

Champs-Élysées

CINEMA

• PARIS FILM FESTIVAL

6 to 12 June

A huge cinema festival on the Champs-Élysées with independent fi lms, big

Hollywood premières and outdoor events. Around fi fty fi lms will be screened at

one hundred and fi fty showings in the avenue’s seven cinemas: unseen French

and American feature fi lms, international fi lms in the line-up for the Best Foreign

Language Film at the Oscars, movie premières and a tribute to the producer Harvey

Weinstein.

www.parisfi lmfest.fr

TAKE A BREAK

• LADURÉE

This pastry-maker house famous for

its macarons was founded in 1862 and

has shops at 75, Avenue des Champs-

Élysées and 16-18 Rue Royale (8th arrondissement), 21 Rue Bonaparte

(6th arrondissement), Printemps

Haussmann (9th arrondissement) and

in the prestigious setting of the Cour

Royale at the Château de Versailles.

www.laduree.fr

• HÔTEL COSTES BAR

This hip bar with chic customers offers

designer décor, cocktails, electrolounge

music and a patio which makes a

great place to unwind.

239 Rue Saint-Honoré (1st arrondissement).

+33 (0)1 42 44 50 00. www.hotelcostes.com

OUTDOORS

• TOUR DE FRANCE FINISH

22 july

The Champs-Élysées will cheer on the

winner of this historic bicycle race.

28 Stay in touch via Paris Tourisme and new-paris-idf.com

See

p. 11


The CANAL SAINT-MARTIN,

CANAL DE L’OURCQ

and the BASSIN DE LA VILLETTE…

Paris on the water

People here are always in the mood for boules and afternoon tea on the

water’s edge, cocktails and dancing, and romantic strolls. And they also have

a knack for coming up with exuberantly harebrained events.

FESTIVAL

• FUTUR EN SEINE

14 to 24 June

Here, you’ll fi nd every possible kind of digital

innovation! It’s all at the Centquatre on 16 and 17

June – then it will make its way round a host of other

regional events. Look out for the robots that are set to

become part of everyday life!

www.futur-en-seine.fr

SHOW

• POINT ÉPHÉMÈRE

This arts centre combines exhibitions, shows, concerts

and out-of-the-ordinary events. From 11 to 17 June,

it will be hosting a dance festival, while 30 June and 1

July will see it open for a record fair, children’s party,

workshops and concerts celebrating independent

labels and electro music. And from 20 July to 20

August, 6 – 9:30 pm, it will be hosting Apéro Mix:

featuring a selection of DJs to sip cocktails to as you

dandle your feet in the water and dance in the streets!

200 Quai de Valmy, Paris 10th arrondissement. Metro station:

Jaurès. +33 (0)1 40 34 02 48. www.pointephemere.org

EXHIBITIONS

• CONNEXIONS

Until 4 August

This installation, a collection of stretched rubber

bands, brings together structure, spectator and artist.

And it’s a great excuse to explore the vast halls of the

Centquatre at the nexus of artistic and creative life,

with its public squares and studios, and its places to

wander or to treat yourself to a delicious meal.

5 Rue Curial, Paris 19th arrondissement.

Metro stations: Riquet or Stalingrad. Tuesday to Sunday,

11 am/noon to 7 pm.

+33 (0) 1 53 35 50 00. www.104.fr

OUTDOORS

• GUIDED TOURS

WITH ARTISTS

Q: What do you get when you let a

troop of actors reinvent the guided

tour? A: The two banks of the Villette

and The spy of Saint-Germain-des-

Prés, dramatized tours featuring lovers,

secrets and a mysterious skeleton...

+33 (0)1 48 58 37 12

www.visites-spectacles.com

• FROM THE SEINE TO THE

CANAL SAINT-MARTIN

Travel from lock to lock and discover

the scenic side of Paris running from the

Hôtel du Nord to the Parc de la Villette.

Paris Canal. +33 (0)1 42 40 29 00

www.pariscanal.com

• PARIS PLAGES

20 July to 19 August

Enjoy all kinds of nautical pursuits at the

Bassin de la Villette!

free partly free to do as a family

See

p. 22

The Canals

and the Bassin

de la Villette

TAKE A BREAK

• LA ROTONDE

This is the new inspired brasserie in the

East of Paris. Savour their inventive

cuisine under a bright and airy dome,

as well as the largest terrace in Paris,

with a view over the canal. Throw in an

effortlessly cool events schedule, from

Zik & Zinc Thursdays to Fashion Brunch

In’a City Sundays and club nights, and

you have all the ingredients for a topclass

culinary experience.

6-8, place de la Bataille de Stalingrad,

Paris 19th arrondissement.

Metro station: Stalingrad.

+33 (0)1 80 48 33 40

www.larotonde.com

• BAR OURCQ

Choose from story-telling evenings,

electro sessions, light meals at

reasonable prices, or make the most of

the deckchairs and boules tournaments

on the water’s edge. It's summertime!

68 Quai de la Loire, Paris 19th arrondissement. Metro stations: Laumière

or Jaurès. After 3 pm from Wednesday

to Sunday. +33 (0)1 42 40 12 26

http://barourcq.free.fr

29


LA VILLETTE,

an exhibition centre, park and world of its own

This astonishing world covers a huge re-landscaped area that was formerly

home to slaughterhouses, and today has everything to offer! There is always

something going on outside and in. People come for the music, culture,

science and activities on offer, not forgetting the large-scale shows,

picnics, festivals… or just to kick back and relax.

Parc de La Villette

Paris 19 th arrondissement. Metro stations: Porte de Pantin and Porte de la Villette.

Programmes and events at www.villette.com

+33 (0)1 40 03 75 75

MUSIC

• DAYS OFF

30 June to 9 July

See

p. 17

The Cité de la Musique and the Salle Pleyel

are busy concocting their festival of

contemporary music with everything from

rock to electro, where unusual is the norm!

• SCÈNES D'ÉTÉ

4 July to 26 August

This summer programme at La Villette includes music from around

the world with open-air concerts, workshops and opportunities to

personally meet the performers from France and around the world.

The line-up includes initiation to tango and concerts and a ball in

honour of the Argentinian, Piazzolla on 4, 7 and 8 July, The 400 or so

percussionists of the samba-reggae style batucada group, Batala,

are scattered throughout the world but from 12 to 15 July, they will

gather here to celebrate their fi fteenth anniversary. From 8 to 12

August, come and take part in the hip hop workshops or on 18 and 19

August have a go at Brakka, somewhere between dance and martials

arts from Africa.

Prairie du Cercle Sud, Free entry.

La Villette

• SIN FRONTERAS

5 July to 29 August

For the third year of this festival that takes you around

the world, Cabaret Sauvage is giving over its fabulous

marquee to world music. Algerian music will kick off

the series from 5 to 8 July, followed by a trip to the

Balkans from 12 to 15 July. We’ll be tuning in to German

music, with strong Berlin infl uences from 19 to 22 July,

and rounding off in Jamaica from 26 to 29 July. In

addition to the concerts, “passengers” can relax on

terraces overlooking the Canal de l’Ourcq with DJ sets,

barbeques, boules and cocktails every evening. Bon

voyage!

+33 (0)1 42 09 03 09. www.cabaretsauvage.com

• JAZZ À LA VILLETTE

28 August to 9 September

People just cannot wait for these 30 or so jazz

concerts with hip hop, soul, pop and funk infl uences.

30 Stay in touch via Paris Tourisme and new-paris-idf.com

See

p. 18


CINEMA

• PTÉRODACTYLES 3D, THE NEW FILM AT THE GÉODE

The Géode is a 36 metre high, mirror-fi nished geodesic dome which holds a

400-seat theatre inclined at 27° and boasts a 1000 m2 hemispherical screen.

This is one of the ten most popular cinemas in the world. Experience it by

spending 40 minutes with the fl ying monsters in Ptérodactyles 3D.

220 million years ago, at the start of the age of the dinosaurs, another group

of reptiles, the pterosaurs, were already defying the laws of gravity. How could

this incredible creature as large as a giraffe get off the ground? With the help

of cutting edge animation and technology, the English naturalist Sir David

Attenborough explores this great paleontological enigma from Texas to China.

Tuesday to Sunday, showings 10:30 am - 8:30 pm. Variable opening hours on Mondays.

www.lageode.fr

SHOW

See

p. 10

• COMPAGNIE DCA PHILIPPE DECOUFLÉ

6 June to 15 July

This most popular contemporary dance choreographer is giving shows (Panorama,

Le Solo) and an exhibition (Opticon).

free partly free to do as a family

• OPEN-AIR CINEMA

25 July to 26 August

Cinema that transforms your summer

with this festival themed around

metamorphosis in 2012!

CIRCUS

See

p. 12

• COMPAGNIE XY.

LE GRAND C

27 June to 21 July

It’s like Piccadilly Circus! Seventeen

artists from Compagnie XY are reexamining

the codes of circuses and

the techniques used by acrobats. In

Le Grand C, the group leap and twist to

create constructions which they then

immediately destroy through living

acrobatic “sculptures” of clustered and

interlocked bodies. Determined to get

in the air and not come down again,

each talented performer of this twisted

collection combines to form a piece of

living art, which is funny, powerful and

moving.

Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays and

Saturdays, 8:30 pm.

Thursdays, 7:30 pm.

31


LA VILLETTE

an exhibition centre, park and world of its own

• LI WEI

See

p. 10

EXHIBITIONS

• BOB DYLAN,

THE ROCK

EXPLOSION

(61-66)

Until 22 July

The Cité de la Musique

tells the story of the

legendary Dylan.

Until 19 August

Vertiginous comedy? An ode to

weightlessness? These fi fteen giant

photographs by Li Wei displayed

outdoors at the Parc de la Villette are

guaranteed to grab your attention. Known

throughout the world for his unusual

methods of depicting himself, here the

Chinese artist can be seen hanging from

a lamppost or standing on nothing at the

top of a building. Li Wei’s art is born out of

his work with contemporary landscapes

where he often tackles the notion of

danger, and it will often create the illusion

of a dangerous reality within which we can

either loose our footing or dream of fl ying

away to freedom. Which is it for you?

Every day, free entry.

+33 (0)1 40 03 75 75

TAKE A BREAK

• TRABENDO REOPENING

The beautiful and all-new Trabendo

venue has been entirely refi tted and

redecorated, and is once again open

at the Parc de la Villette. It has been

extended with a bar and a terrace area

where people will enjoy relaxing, and its

concert hall features a refreshing and

eclectic programme of rock and electro

music, club events, hip hop, singersongwriter

concerts, shows for children

and more.

Open 1 hour before concerts, bar and terrace

remain open after.

+33 (0)1 42 06 05 52. www.letrabendo.net

• VILLETTE ENCHANTÉE

The Grande Halle de la Villette covered

area is an enchanting, cosily-lit place

good for sipping a coffee or enjoying

the menu of the day within a large

vaulted and glass-covered room

opening on to a wooden terrace at

the fi rst hint of sunshine. The Villette

Enchantée is a café-restaurant during

the day, a place to go for drinks in

the early evening, and transforms

itself into a Mecca for clubbers on

weekend evenings. And since we do

not compromise when it comes to

sound, only the most successful DJs

of the moment have the privilege of

keeping the party going here through to

daybreak.

Monday to Thursday and Sundays,

11 am - 8 pm.

Fridays and Saturdays, 11 am - 6 am.

+33 (0)1 40 35 96 49

www.lavilletteenchantee.fr

• THE INCREDIBLE GAULS

Until 2 September

The Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie is located within

the park and shows off the best of what science and

leisure have to offer. There are hundreds of clever

displays for all ages that make it defi nitely worth a

visit. Using archaeological discoveries made in the

last thirty years, ‘The Incredible Gauls’ challenges our

preconceived ideas about Gaulish civilisation. Visitors

take on different roles of investigator, collaborator,

discoverer and spectator as they progress along

the fi ve sequences, from “Two thousand years of

imagining the Gauls” to “A farewell to myths?”.

Tuesday to Saturday, 10 am - 6 pm. Sundays 10 am - 7 pm.

+33 (0)1 40 05 80 00. www.cite-sciences.fr

32 Stay in touch via Paris Tourisme and new-paris-idf.com


Around and about the Parc de La Villette

MUSIC

• LA PLAGE DE GLAZART

Until 24 September

The Glazart concert, clubbing and exhibition area is

dedicated to alternative styles and surrounded by

a man-made nature area. Fine sand, deckchairs, a

boules area, bar, canteen… and a stage, of course!

The programme on this party beach includes

DJ sets, clubbing events, activities, brunches,

afternoon activities for children, radio shows and

free or cheap concerts. Well-known and up-andcoming

talents from the indie scene perform

here, where people also experience the groove of

"electropical" and epic pop rhythms, and get to

enjoy lively folk and gypsy punk. Expect loud music

and the best events, particularly during the La Plage

Festival, from 28 June to 10 July.

7-15 Ave de la Porte de la Villette, Paris 19th arrondissement.

Metro station: Porte de la Villette.

+33 (0)1 40 36 55 65. www.glazart.com

OUTDOORS

• L’ÉTÉ DU CANAL ON THE CANAL DE L’OURCQ

23 June to 26 August

Every weekend, there is plenty to do down at the canal! Ferry

boats take you from the Bassin de la Villette to Aulnay-sous-Bois,

via Parc de La Villette, Pantin, Bobigny-sur-Ourcq, Noisy-le-Sec

and Bondy for a mere €1 on Saturdays, €2 on Sundays. What

could be better? A morning cruise-show, perhaps, for just €10? Or

a concert on board a barge? Back on land, take an excursion by

foot, bike or even by horse and coach while artists work together

on a piece of giant graffiti art. There is also a free concert every

Saturday at the Bobigny marquee, while Bals Barges, also free,

provide an opportunity to dance on the canal banks on Sunday

afternoons. All the towns along the canal blend into one with water

parks, open-air cinema, gypsy Bal-musette music, street art, and

more.

Bassin de la Villette. Metro stations: Stalingrad, Jaurès.

www.tourisme93.com/ete-du-canal

free partly free to do as a family

33


MONTMARTRE

and NORTH PARIS,

a global village

All around the Sacré-Cœur which crowns the Butte Montmartre,

savour the melting-pot of cultures accompanied by musette,

accordion and rap music.

WHAT TO VISIT

• PARIS SAINT-OUEN

FLEA MARKET

This is a cult experience! Come and

mill around this listed semi-covered

site, and bargain-hunt among fashion,

antique and second-hand stores.

Metro station: Porte de Clignancourt.

Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays.

http://marcheauxpuces-saintouen.com

CINEMA

• CINÉMA AU CLAIR DE LUNE

1 to 12 August

From the Butte Montmartre to Parc

Montsouris, from the Place des Fêtes

to Place des Vosges, the cinema is

wherever the fi lm is projected outdoors.

Pure joy for cinema lovers and it’s free!

Showings at 9:30 pm.

+33 (0)1 44 76 63 00

www.forumdesimages.fr

CIRCUS

• LES IMPROMPTUS

17 june

Now that’s a circus! The Académie

Fratellini is opening up its 5000 m2 for

use by the poetry, magic and burlesque

shows performed by their trainees,

friends and supporting artists.

Rue des Cheminots, La Plaine Saint-Denis.

Noon - 7 pm. From Paris, RER line D

Stade de France-Saint-Denis.

+33 (0)1 72 59 40 30

www.academie-fratellini.com

Montmartre

FESTIVALS

• JAZZ-MUSETTE AT THE

PARIS SAINT-OUEN FLEA

MARKET

22 to 24 june

Twenty-fi ve orchestras and one

hundred and forty artists, including

Nicoletta, Juliette, Biréli Lagrène and

Didier Lockwood tour bars and give free

concerts all around the fl ea market.

www.festivaldespuces.com

• LA GOUTTE D’OR EN FÊTE

27 June to 1 July

During this large community festival, the streets of the Goutte d’Or district brim with

parades, brass bands, choirs and street displays. Square Léon becomes a venue for

public performances, while concerts, community meals and dances take place on

the Parvis de l’Eglise Saint-Bernard.

Metro stations: Château Rouge, Barbès-Rochechouart, La Chapelle.

www.gouttedorenfete.org

34 Stay in touch via Paris Tourisme and new-paris-idf.com


• TRÉTEAUX NOMADES

20 August to 2 September

Based out of Arènes de Montmartre,

this Commedia dell’arte mobile theatre

festival serves up outlandish humour and

improvisation and will also be performing

at Cour de l’Hôtel de Beauvais (4th arrondissement), Place Sainte-Marthe

(10th arrondissement) and the La

Bellevilloise venue (20th arrondissement).

Rue Chappe, Paris 18th arrondissement.

Metro stations: Anvers and Abbesses.

Tuesday to Saturday, 8:30 pm; Sunday, 4 pm.

+33 (0)1 48 40 62 49

www.treteauxnomades.com

• GANESHA FESTIVAL

2 September

An extraordinary procession of dancers, flutists and Nadaswaram

players surround a float carrying the Ganesha god with his elephant

head. This is firstly a religious festival, but gives everyone something

out of the norm.

Temple de Sri Manicka Vinayakar Alayam, 17 Rue Pajol, Paris 18th arrondissement. Metro station: La Chapelle.

free partly free to do as a family

• RHIZOMES

Saturdays and Sundays from 23 June to 8 July

Three weekends of free concerts, drawing from musical

influences from around the world in the parks of the

18th arrondissement and Aubervilliers.

www.festivalrhizomes.fr

MUSIC

• FÊTE DE L’HUMANITÉ

14 to 16 September

It’s time for the party at La Courneuve. Light humour,

debates and, of course, live music, featuring stars and

rising talents.

Parc de La Courneuve. RER line B, Le Bourget, Metro station:

La Courneuve-8 Mai 1945 then RATP shuttle.

www.humanite.fr/fete_huma

TAKE A BREAK

• LE MOULIN DE LA GALETTE

The only two mills still standing in Montmartre, where

Renoir painted a certain ‘Dance at Le Moulin de la

Galette’, provide a backdrop to this restaurant. Seated

on one of two terraces filled with greenery you will feel

like you’re a hundred miles away from the city!

83 Rue Lepic, Paris 18th arrondissement. Metro stations:

Abbesses, Blanche. Noon – 10:30 pm.

+33 (0)1 46 06 84 77. www.lemoulindelagalette.fr

35


MÉNILMONTANT

and surroundings

The former villages of Ménilmontant and Belleville have always thronged

with people, and they once had as many cabarets as vines! The streets

swarm with party-goers between Rue Oberkampf and Buttes Chaumont,

especially when summer comes!

MUSIC

• LA MAROQUINERIE

This key music venue next door to

the La Bellevilloise is pioneering new

sounds, with a bar, restaurant and

terrace that fi ts in well with its 20th arrondissement surroundings.

23 Rue Boyer, Paris 20th arrondissement.

Metro stations: Gambetta, Ménilmontant.

+33 (0)1 40 33 35 05

www.lamaroquinerie.fr

SHOWS

Ménilmontant

• LA BELLEVILLOISE

Paris for the people since 1877!” This was the fi rst cooperative in Paris founded

soon after Belleville was established as a commune (municipality) with the

purpose of helping people of modest means access education and culture. In

2005, three subversives re-opened it in line with its original purpose: 2000 m 2

of vivid architecture dedicated to art and events, a meeting place with concerts,

clubbing, light meals and coffee served under hundred-year-old olive trees,

shows, exhibitions and fi lm screenings. And a terrace that overlooks the rooftops

of Paris.

• LA GRANDE PRAIRIE DE LA BELLEVILLOISE

17 July to early September

Picture this… 500 m2 covered with green matting and fi lled with deckchairs,

hammocks, a massage tent, a cocktail and fresh fruit juice bar, bouquets of

sunfl owers... and ponds full of water lilies and water hyacinths. This luxury area is

open to all and hosts a wonderful cultural hotchpotch with a temporary library,

screenings of short fi lms, acoustic sets, artistic ‘happenings’, DJ mixes, themed

aperitif events and more.

19-21 Rue Boyer – Paris 20th arrondissement. Metro station: Gambetta. Wednesday to

Sunday, 7 pm - 1 am or 2 am. Sundays, 11:30 am - 5 pm or midnight. Club open until 6 am

depending on programme. +33 (0)1 46 36 07 07. www.labellevilloise.com

• NOUVEAU CASINO

Not to be missed! The shimmering

metal-covered walls at Nouveau Casino

host concerts, digital art events and

parties. Its quirky fairytale lights stand

for the spirit of exploration and fusion of

different art forms. And it’s a great place

to get down to some electro beats late

into the night.

109 Rue Oberkampf, Paris 11th arrondissement.

Metro stations: Parmentier, Ménilmontant.

+33 (0)1 43 57 57 40

www.nouveaucasino.net

36 Stay in touch via Paris Tourisme and new-paris-idf.com


FESTIVALS OUTDOORS

• 2 ND NUITS PHOTOGRAPHIQUES FESTIVAL

Fridays 1, 8, 15, 22 and 29 June

Free entry for open minds. It all starts at 7pm with an aperitif at

the Pavillon du Lac in the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, with DJ sets

provided by La Dame Noir. Then, from 10pm to midnight, it’s outside

on the lawns, where photo movies are projected onto a big screen.

There are three sections to the presentation: special guests, selected

photos and best artists of this emerging art form, somewhere

between cinema and photography. Finally, at midnight, it’s back to

the pavilion for more music and dancing!

Place Armand-Carrel entrance, Paris 19th arrondissement. Metro station:

Laumière. 7 pm – 1:30 am. www.lesnuitsphotographiques.com

• ET 20 L’ÉTÉ

16 to 24 June

The streets of the 20 th arrondissement have some

surprises in store you. This open-air arts festival

does what it says on the tin. It surprises you, with its

dozen or so wandering shows. Et 20 l’Été encourages

new companies and artistic productions and also

gives room to mobile shows where the audience

participates. It is all about the unexpected, mindblowing

experiences and mixing genres.

+33 (0)1 43 15 20 21. www.mairie20.paris.fr

• PARC DE BELLEVILLE

This park and its terrace overlooking the city are like a

little piece of heaven in the joyful disorder of this district

with its bars, bistros and music on every street corner. You

will also enjoy the giant wooden play area, the Maison

de l’Air air museum, a lawn-covered hill topped with one

of the biggest cascade fountains in Paris and the city's

fauna: blackbirds, tits of all kinds and (song) thrushes.

Would you expect anything less?

47 Rue des Couronnes, Paris 20th arrondissement.

Metro station: Couronnes.

• PARC DES BUTTES CHAUMONT

This has the steepest slopes of Paris' 426 parks and

gardens, and is undoubtedly the most “English-Chinese”

garden in style with its deliberate chaos. In the middle

of the lake in this skilfully created disorder of almost

twenty-five hectares stands a rocky island crowned with a

Temple of Sybil in the romantic style. Since 1867, people

have been admiring the thirty-two metre high waterfall,

the cave decorated with false stalactites and the beautiful

smells from exotic trees planted around the hillock. With

Honey locust, Turkish hazel, Cedar of Lebanon trees

and more, exploring the Buttes Chaumont is a genuine

adventure where you meet moorhens and ducks, play

areas and merry-go-rounds, sloping lawns and groups of

happy picnickers.

1 Rue Botzaris, Paris 19h arrondissement.

Metro station: Buttes Chaumont.

• ROSA BONHEUR

This is the place for a bite to eat, and a spot of dancing

(why not?), in the beautiful surroundings of Buttes

Chaumont. This café-cum-tea room which takes its

name from a pioneer of feminism in the 19th century is

loved by local residents and has served as the park’s

top-end eatery since 2008 with its mix of charm and

impertinence. Its terrace with panoramic views comes

highly recommended!

Ave de la Cascade, Paris 19th arrondissement. Metro station:

Botzaris. +33 (0)1 42 00 00 45. www.rosabonheur.fr

• FESTIVAL SILHOUETTE

1 to 9 September

In 2002, a group of cinema enthusiasts founded this festival of short films, which

has become the biggest of its kind in Paris - but entry is still free! Over one hundred

and thirty short films including fictional, animated works, documentaries and music

videos are screened under the beautiful starry sky of Buttes Chaumont. They are all

unique works that break the mould, the result of the producer’s absolute freedom

and a refusal to follow current conventions. During the daytime, Silhouette also

takes over the Centquatre for screenings and workshops.

Place Armand-Carrel entrance, Paris 19 th arrondissement. Metro station: Laumière.

www.association-silhouette.com. Centquatre, 5 Rue Curial, Paris 19 th arrondissement.

Metro station: Riquet. +33 (0)1 53 35 50 00. www.104.fr

free partly free to do as a family

TAKE A BREAK

37


Around the

JARDIN DES PLANTES,

the Latin Quarter, offering a glimpse of Byzantium

and a taste of the good life

Here we have a garden created four centuries ago, with hundred-year-old

trees, botanical treasures, a zoo, fossils and mammoths and the incredible

Grande Galerie de l’Évolution. And what’s more, the story and adventures

continue beyond the Jardin des Plantes itself. Discover steeply inclining streets

and a mosque... Paris is full of surprises!

JARDIN DES PLANTES, NATIONAL

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM

This garden is a veritable treasure trove created under the reign of Louis XIII and

contains beautiful buildings, clusters of trees and wide paths as well as eleven

other areas, including a labyrinth, alpine and iris garden. Besides the Grande

Galerie de l’Évolution and the Ménagerie, you’ll also fi nd the acclaimed Galeries

de Paléontologie, the Grandes Serres glasshouses, which have been completely

restored, play areas and other attractions.

• LA MÉNAGERIE

This zoo, opened in 1794, is a piece of

architectural heritage in its own right,

with its rotunda and large aviary built

in 1802 and 1888 respectively, its Art

Deco vivarium and monkey houses.

Almost two thousand mammals, birds,

turtles, crocodiles, snakes, amphibians

and spiders live here, including

Nénette, an orang-utan from Borneo,

who has been in residence since 1972

and starred in a fi lm.

Every day 9 am – 6 pm. Sundays and public

holidays until 6:30 pm. +33 (0)1 40 79 37 94.

• LIFE IN THE SUNDARBANS

22 June to 12 September

There’s even a mangrove forest in the

Jardin des Plantes! But only in Xavier

Desmier’s photographic work, which is

being displayed outside.

www.photoparnature.com

Jardin des Plantes

• GRANDE GALERIE DE L’ÉVOLUTION

The huge glass roof here provides a spectacular

setting for exhibiting the diversity of life on land and in

the sea, the mechanisms of evolution and man’s role

therein. Siam the elephant marches at the head of

the caravan of stuffed animals, not far from Chinese

tigers and Mauritian dodos, representing extinct or

endangered species.

Every day except Tuesdays, 10 am – 6 pm.

+33 (0)1 40 79 54 79

• ALONG THE SPIDER’S THREAD

(AU FIL DES ARAIGNÉES)

Until 2 July

This interactive exhibition sets out to dispel the myth

of spiders as hairy monsters, revealing how amazing

these eight-legged creatures really are, from their

behaviour and abilities, to their useful role in the food

chain. You’ll be surprised!

http://araignees.mnhn.fr

Jardin des Plantes, Museum national d’Histoire naturelle,

57 rue Cuvier, 2 rue Buffon, 36 rue Geoffroy-Saint-Hilaire,

place Valhubert, Paris 5th arrondissement.

Metro stations: Austerlitz, Censier-Daubenton, Jussieu.

Garden open every day, 7:30 am – 7:45 pm during the

summer. +33 (0)1 40 79 56 01. www.jardindesplantes.net

www.mnhn.fr

http://billetterie.mnhn.fr

38 Stay in touch via Paris Tourisme and new-paris-idf.com


TAKE A BREAK

• LA MOSQUÉE DE PARIS

This mosque with a thirty-three metre high

minaret makes a lovely place to stop off. It

is a place of worship, built in the Spanish-

Moorish style, but it also gives visitors a

warm welcome. Try mint tea and oriental

pastries on the patios of Café Maure, or

couscous and home-made tajines whilst

admiring the mosaics in the lounges. And

why not round off your exotic experience by

dropping in at the hammam? It’s an oasis of

tranquillity with its columns, fountains and

steam baths.

39 rue Geoffroy-Saint-Hilaire, Paris 5th arrondissement. Metro station: Jussieu, Place

Monge. Every day, 9 am - midnight.

+33 (0)1 45 35 97 33. www.la-mosquee.com

EXHIBITION

• THE WORLD OF CRISTOBAL

BALENCIAGA

Until 7 October

The Musée Galliera is being renovated, but

is still paying an extramural tribute to the

great master, Balenciaga. Featuring whalebone

bodices and ladies’ casaquin gowns,

satin tailcoats, velvet bolero jackets, bustle

dresses, embroidery and trimmings, the

exhibition will unveil the collection of fashion

items from the 18 th , 19 th and 20 th centuries

carefully assembled by Balenciaga,

displayed next to around forty of his haute

couture dresses and coats. Accessories,

photos and sketches enhance the exhibition

and plunge visitors into the creative

intimacy of this ultimate of designers.

Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et du Design. 34 Quai

d’Austerlitz, Paris 13 th arrondissement.

Metro stations: Gare d’Austerlitz, Quai de la Gare,

Gare de Lyon. Tuesday to Sunday, 10 am – 6 pm.

+33 (0)1 76 77 25 30. www.paris-docks-en-seine.fr

INSTITUT DU MONDE ARABE

This year, the home of Arabic culture in Paris unveiled its new museum, which has been

completely redesigned around art sourced from the twenty-two Arabic countries.

It includes acclaimed works of art, exhibitions centred on the Arab world’s cultural

heritage and its contemporary creative scene, concerts and dance shows, activities for

young people and much more. To mark the 50 th anniversary of Algeria’s independence,

its music festival (8 to 16 June), will be staging a panorama of Algerian song,

contemporary music, folklore and raï, a fusion of North African and Western music.

• ZYRIAB BY NOURA

Still hungry for new sensations? A mind-blowing view over Paris and the elegance of

Lebanese haute cuisine await you in this 9th-storey restaurant and terrace.

1 rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard, Place Mohammed V, Paris 5th arrondissement. Metro stations:

Jussieu, Cardinal-Lemoine, Sully-Morland. Tuesday to Sunday, 10 am - 6 or 7 pm.

In July-August, Tuesday – Saturday 1 pm – 6 pm. +33 (0)1 40 51 38 38. www.imarabe.org

OUTDOORS

• JARDIN TINO-ROSSI, OPEN AIR SCULPTURE MUSEUM

This garden on the bank of the Seine runs from the foot of the Institut du Monde Arabe

to the Jardin des Plantes and is sprinkled with sculptures by Brancusi, César, Zadkine

and others besides. Wander around, play and picnic whilst admiring Notre-Dame

cathedral. Then, as night falls, dance the tango, salsa, or even rumba...

8 Quai Saint-Bernard, Paris 5th arrondissement. Metro station: Jussieu.

free partly free to do as a family

39


From Bibliothèque Nationale de France

to Bercy,

this part of Paris is full of new life

In this district, where the elegant Passerelle Simone de Beauvoir footbridge

links the Bibliothèque nationale de France and the Parc de Bercy, you get a

sense of perpetual motion – with music venues and concert halls springing

up everywhere, along with organic food outlets, innovative boutiques and

patches of greenery and artistic endeavour.

WHAT TO VISIT

• BIBLIOTHÈQUE NATIONALE DE

FRANCE (BnF)

The written heritage of a nation comes to life in this

library, with its four towers of wood, glass and steel

surrounding a central garden. Read and expand your

mind in the reading rooms and reception areas and

dream in front of the Globes of the Sun King exhibition.

To fi nd out all there is to know about the BnF, take the

guided tour from Tuesday to Sunday at 3 pm. And don’t

miss Wolinski, a free exhibition running from 29 June to

2 July – it’s guaranteed to bring a smile to your face!

BnF, Site François Mitterrand, Quai François-Mauriac, Paris 13th arrondissement. Metro station: Quai de la Gare, Metro and RER

line C, Bibliothèque F-Mitterrand. Every day except Monday.

+33 (0)1 53 79 49 49. www.bnf.fr

CINEMA

• PARIS CINEMA FESTIVAL

29 June to 10 July

This festival celebrates the vitality of the big screen, with �5 showings and free

events. The opening night is being held at the Forum des images

(1st arrondissement): techno icon Jeff Mills will be mixing over the documentary

Études sur Paris, the masterpiece of urban poetry from the 1920s, followed by

a Nuit du Cinéma event devoted to

Hong Kong, with director Johnnie To in

attendance. The festival will be putting

this incredible city-state under the

spotlight with eighty glamorous, frenetic

fi lms that will be hitting the screen here

and at the MK2 near the Bibliothèque

(13th arrondissement). In addition, there

will be eight feature fi lms in competition,

premières, restored classics, a homage

to Raoul Ruiz, an event looking back on

the work of Olivier Assayas attended by

the man himself, a huge fi lm-themed

karaoke session at the Centquatre

(19th arrondissement) on 7 July and the

Cinema Trade Market on the 7 and 8 July

on the forecourt in front of the MK2 and

the BnF.

+33 (0)1 55 25 55 25. www.pariscinema.org

MUSIC

40 Stay in touch via Paris Tourisme and new-paris-idf.com

Bercy

• OPERA AT THE FESTIVAL CÔTÉ COUR

Until 1 July, and 2 September to 14 October

Over thirteen Sundays, all kinds of song will be echoing round the cobblestones of the

Cour Saint-Émilion in Bercy Village, from well-known arias to operettas, operas and

musicals, duets and choruses, accompanied by accordion or by double bass – opera is

for everyone !

Metro station: Cour Saint-Émilion. www.bercyvillage.com


MUSIC

• LE BATOFAR

This musical vessel has a terrace overlooking the

Seine which hosts DJs and live acoustic sets around

cocktail hour. Then, everyone heads down to the

hold! Somewhere between a concert hall and a

dance fl oor, this venue invites you tune into the

music and dance the night away. For food-lovers,

inventive dishes are served in the dining room which

opens onto the kitchen. And until September on the

quay, la Plage will be offering even more music and

events amongst the deckchairs and the big tables in

its bar and food area.

+33 (0)9 71 25 50 61. www.batofar.org. Restaurant open

midday and evening Tuesday to Friday and Saturday evenings.

+33 (0)1 53 60 17 00 – La Plage, Monday to Friday, noon –

2 am, Saturdays, 6 pm – 2 am, Sundays 11:30 am – midnight.

Club open until 6 am on selected nights.

• LA DAME DE CANTON

After sailing the oceans, this exotic wooden Chinese

junk continues its voyage at the quayside. With a

knack for spotting rising talent, she explores the

terrains of music, festivity and fun by way of her

concert venue with bar and dance fl oor and the hold

converted into a restaurant-cum-boudoir. Enjoy the

terrace on the quay throughout the summer.

Concerts Tuesday to Saturday at 8:30 pm. Clubbing Fridays

and Saturdays from 11:30 pm. Terrace open in the afternoons.

www.damedecanton.com

• PETIT BAIN

Is this a barge? Yes, but it is also a fl oating cultural

centre and an island within the city with three

areas to entice pleasure-seekers: a green roof

terrace, a restaurant on deck open midday and

in the evening and a concert venue in the hold.

Sunbathing, local pop music, eccentric artwork,

good times and concerts indoors and out, gardening

and opportunities to sample fresh produce make a

perfect combination here.

Tuesday to Sunday, noon - 2 am.

+33 (0)1 43 68 92. www.petitbain.org

Batofar, Dame de Canton, Petit Bain:

Quai François-Mauriac, port de la Gare,

Paris 13th arrondissement.Metro station: Quai de la Gare

and RER line C, Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand.

.

free partly free to do as a family

LA CINÉMATHÈQUE FRANÇAISE

Welcome to a world of wonder! With forty showings every week,

cinematic events, workshops, a library, a museum where you can

discover a gem of a collection on the history of cinema and two big

temporary exhibitions per year.

• TIM BURTON, THE EXHIBITION

Until 5 August

Step into this brilliant director’s imagination at the Cinémathèque

Française.

• LE 51

Until 5 August

If you feel the need to linger after the credits start to roll, stop by the

Cinémathèque’s restaurant, with its terrace overlooking the Parc de

Bercy. They will serve you anything from a country lunch to a moonlit

dinner, and even a takeaway picnic basket.

51 Rue de Bercy, Paris 12th arrondissement. Metro station: Bercy.

Every day except Tuesdays. www.cinematheque.fr

Le 51: +33 (0)1 58 51 10 91. www.restaurant51.com

OUTDOORS

See

p. 11

• JOSÉPHINE BAKER SWIMMING POOL

There are some upsides to taking exercise, especially when it involves

a swimming pool that fl oats on the Seine: picture windows looking out

over the river, a large pool, teak decking on the roof, solarium area on

the quay... For the exercise front head to the fi tness area, with its gyms

and weights rooms, two saunas, hammam and Jacuzzi.

+33 (0)1 56 61 96 50. Quai François-Mauriac, port de la Gare,

Paris 13th arrondissement. Metro station: Quai de la Gare and RER line C,

Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand.

41


VITRY-SUR-SEINE,

ANTONY,

CHÂTENAY-MALABRY…

capsules of art and expression

Just to prove that the summer is not just about the South of France, ten

contemporary artists are creating a collective exhibition across six towns

in the Hauts-de-Seine département for a real festival of creativity just a

stone’s throw from Paris!

MAC/VAL

Within its spacious and light-fi lled interior, the Musée d’Art

Contemporain du Val-de-Marne holds two thousand works of art

and is devoted to French art from the 1950s onward. The museum

exhibitions are designed in line with its collection and deepen the

visitor’s experience of contemporary art.

• SITUATION(S)

30 June to 23 September

This collective exhibition draws together the work of ten artists,

which includes “evolving” and performance pieces which explore the

gap between individual and public spheres, identity in movement,

portrayal of self… On 30 June and 1 July, performances will accompany

the event launch, while the Heritage Days on 15 and 16 September

are guaranteed to offer new surprises.

Place de la Libération, Vitry-sur-Seine. Metro station: Porte de Choisy, Bus

183. Metro station: Villejuif-Louis-Aragon, Bus 180 or 172, RER line C, Gare

de Vitry-sur-Seine station, Bus 108. RER line D, Gare de Maisons-Alfort-

Alfortville station, Bus 172. Tuesday to Sunday.

+33 (0)1 43 91 64 20. www.macval.fr

CIRCUS

• 12th SOLSTICE

21 to 30 June

This 12th annual festival of

contemporary circus arts offers

another free season of head-spinning

displays in the streets of Antony and

Châtenay-Malabry. First, that sly

collection of acrobats from Compagnie

XY will provide open air entertainment.

Then the young Catalan students of

the Ganapies group will erect human

pyramids. Also performing will be the

Compagnie Azeïn aerial duo, Jörg

Muller & Co. acrobats underwater in a

giant tube and the strange tightrope

walker, Señor StetS. Circus workshops,

drinks and concert events and a ball on

30 June are on the programme too.

+33 (0)1 41 87 20 84

www.theatrefi rmingemier-lapiscine.fr

Châtenay-

Malabry

42 Stay in touch via Paris Tourisme and new-paris-idf.com

Antony

FESTIVAL

• NOUS N’IRONS PAS À AVIGNON

4 to 29 July

Once upon a time in a hall from 1860 near the Gare de Vitry, at the

centre of the town… Gare au Théâtre began in 1996 and spawned

its own “counter-festival” combining theatre, dance, music and

entertainment for children. It is all about the good things in life and

improvisation, spills out into the courtyard, and includes a bar and

family dining organised around the four daily shows and other events

presented by around 15 companies.

13 Rue Pierre-Sémard, Vitry-sur-Seine. Wednesday to Sunday, 3 pm to 10 pm.

+33 (0)1 55 53 22 26. www.gareautheatre.com

Vitry

• PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Vitry-sur-Seine station is just fi ve minutes from Bibliothèque François-

Mitterrand station (13 th arrondissement) via RER line C.


The BOIS DE VINCENNES

and PARC FLORAL

nature on the outskirts of Paris

Enjoy 995 hectares of parkland with paths to be explored by foot, bike or horseback,

as well as the Lac Daumesnil and the Lac des Minimes lakes, a racecourse and the

Parc Floral. This gem of a park, complete with themed gardens, ornamental lakes,

patios, pavilions, play areas and activities, also lets you sample the best of French

culture.

PARC FLORAL

• LES PESTACLES

6 June to 26 September

The Parc Floral’s festival for young people is set to be an explosive

one. Every Wednesday, slam poetry, classical, pop-rock-electro,

jazz, choral and funk concerts will be sure to get kids grooving. On

26 September, they’ll even be able to boogie to some beatboxing.

Les Pestacles also offers readings of adventure stories, opportunities

to meet the artists and gardening workshops.

• PARIS JAZZ FESTIVAL

Saturdays and Sundays from 9 June to 29 July

This delightfully innovative festival works the balance between

emerging talent and big names in the jazz world. Bireli Lagrène,

Ibrahim Maalouf, Eric Legnini, Stéphane Belmondo and Daniel

Humair will all be performing, with many others besides. They’ll be

counting on the Parc Floral to work its magic of melodies drifting

over trees, waterside concerts and musical picnics. This year,

some new features will be further enhancing the festivities, such

as evening shows, a 14 July ball and a new fl oating stage dedicated

to contemporary jazz.

• CLASSIQUE AU VERT FESTIVAL

Saturdays and Sundays from 4 August to 16 Septembere

Classical music takes centre stage among the other arts on display

- architecture, painting, poetry, and dance - but above all, it takes

centre stage in what makes for the charm of the Parc Floral – nature.

There’ll be recitals, a host of symphonies and chamber music, as rising

talent and big international soloists alike perform both acclaimed

masterpieces and lesser-known pieces on the outdoor stage.

Parc Floral de Paris, Esplanade Saint-Louis in front of the Château

de Vincennes, Bois de Vincennes. Metro station: Château de Vincennes.

RER line A, Vincennes. 9:30 am – 8 pm, except on concert evenings

www.parcfl oraldeparis.com

Events and concerts free with park entry fee.

Les Pestacles, +33 (0)1 48 51 38 98. www.lespestacles.fr

Classique au vert festival, from 4pm.

www.classiqueauvert.paris.fr

Paris Jazz Festival, from 4 pm.

+33 (0)1 48 76 83 01. www.parisjazzfestival.paris.fr

WHAT TO VISIT

• CHÂTEAU DE VINCENNES

This stunning fortress, a royal residence

during the 17th and 18th centuries, has

kept its compound, chapel and keep,

which is the highest in Europe. It was

here that Fouquet, the Marquis de Sade

and Mirabeau were detained. From 19

June to 10 November, the exhibition

entitled “The keep of dreams: from

Piranèse to Schuiten” lets you compare

the keep as it stands with artistic

representations of it.

Metro station: Château de Vincennes and RER

line A, Vincennes station. 10 am – 6:15 pm until

30 September. +33 (0)1 43 28 15 48

www.vincennes.monuments-nationaux.fr

MUSIC

• AÏDA, OPEN-AIR OPERA

13 to 16 June

Élie Chouraqui’s production of this Verdi

masterpiece will be taking up residence

in the Château de Vincennes.

free partly free to do as a family

See

p. 18

Bois de Vincennes

43


PROVINS et MEAUX

a journey back in time

Journey back in time to the Middle Ages in the medieval town of Provins which

features on the UNESCO world heritage list with its tunnels, ramparts and fi fty-eight

historical monuments. And when you’ve seen all the sights of the period, take another

jump in time to the First World War, at the museum of the Great War in Meaux.

PROVINS

SHOWS

• SOUND AND LIGHT SHOW

8, 9, 15 and 16 June

For the thirty-fi rst year, come to the

gardens of the Cordelières convent at

nightfall to see a whole range of scenes

from medieval life.

• LES MÉDIÉVALES

DE PROVINS

23 and 24 June

For its 29 th year, this big medieval festival

is dedicated to the age of master builders.

Medieval scaffolding will be constructed

at the town’s fortifi ed gates, while master

craftsmen, stonemasons and rope

access technicians perform their work as

in yesteryear. Participate in workshops

and activities or watch the musicians and

street entertainers who bring back the

atmosphere of the Champagne fairs of

the 12 th and 13 th centuries. Try your hand

at quoits and skittles, and stroll round

craftsmen’s stalls in the camp at the foot

of the ramparts. On 23 June, there is a big

medieval concert at Place du Châtel.

• THE LIGHTS OF TIME

7 July and 4 August

When Provins lights up to thousands

of candles there are battle displays at

the Caesar’s Tower, a horse show at

the Porte Saint-Jean, music, costume

parades and more. It's quite a night!

• MEDIEVAL SHOWS

Until 4 November

Eagles, buzzards, falcons and vultures

star in this “The eagles of the ramparts”

falconry show. The “Legend of the

knights” equestrian show focuses on the

legends of Provins, and its princesses,

warriors and wolves. And the knights and

lords in “The Age of the ramparts” look

like they really have just returned from

the crusades!

From Paris, SNCF Gare de l’Est station.

+33 (0)1 64 60 26 26

www.provins.net

TAKE A BREAK

• AUX VIEUX REMPARTS

Enjoy gourmet seasonal cuisine at the L’Esquisse

restaurant or on the large shaded terrace within the

hotel complex.

3, rue Couverte, Provins. +33 (0)1 64 08 94 00

www.auxvieuxremparts.com

MEAUX

44 Stay in touch via Paris Tourisme and new-paris-idf.com

Meaux

Provins

WHAT TO VISIT

• MUSEUM OF THE GREAT WAR

This twenty-fi rst century museum which opened on

11 November 2011 has the only collection of its kind

in Europe and offers a new perspective on the First

World War. Innovative displays illustrate the war and

the huge social changes which resulted from it. It hosts

permanent and temporary exhibitions, cultural events

and a book and souvenir shop…

Rue Lazare-Ponticelli, Meaux. Every day except Tuesdays,

10 am to 5:30 pm.

+33 (0)1 60 32 14 18. www.museedelagrandeguerre.eu

From Paris: RER line A, Chessy Marne-la-Vallée then Bus 19

to Meaux station, or SNCF Gare de l’Est station.

• CITYRAMA TAKES YOU THERE

The Cityrama shuttle service takes you to Provins

from Paris. The company offers transport, tours

and shows... Their all-inclusive trips make for

a great day out, as they do for Fontainebleau,

Vaux le Vicomte, Versailles and Thoiry.

Return trip and ticket service.

+33 (0)1 44 55 60 00. www.pariscityvision.com


FONTAINEBLEAU,

VAUX LE VICOMTE

and CHAMARANDE

châteaux

Drink in the nature and splendour at Fontainebleau, the former hunting grounds and

country residence of the Kings of France. And don’t miss the châteaux at Vaux le

Vicomte, once the envy of Louis XIV, and Chamarande, which has become a haven

for contemporary art.

WHAT TO VISIT

• CHÂTEAU DE

FONTAINEBLEAU

This 1500-room palace surrounded by

eleven hectares of parkland and gardens

has served both kings and emperors,

and it is worth putting aside a whole day

to explore it. Loved and developed by

rulers from François I to Napoleon III,

Fontainebleau served as a residence for

seven centuries, and invites you on a

spellbinding exploration of the history of

art and architecture.

+33 (0)1 60 71 50 70

www.musee-chateau-fontainebleau.fr

From Paris: SNCF Gare de Lyon station or

Cityrama return coach trip and ticket service,

Wednesdays and Saturdays.

+33 (0)1 44 55 60 00

www.pariscityvision.com

• DOMAINE DÉPARTEMENTAL

DE CHAMARANDE

This place is both a centre for

contemporary art and culture and a

classifi ed heritage site surrounded by

98 hectares of landscaped parkland

with children’s play areas, picnic places

and boating. There is an exciting

programme of events on Sunday

afternoons in June and July, including

dance, circus performances, storytelling

and fi ne arts. And they’re all

free! Until 30 September, the Salons

exhibitions will be taking over the park,

château and orangerie.

+33 (0)1 60 82 52 01

www.chamarande.essonne.fr

From Paris, RER line C, Chamarande

(200 metres from the Domaine).

• CANDLELIGHT EVENINGS

AT VAUX LE VICOMTE

Until 6 October

This architectural masterpiece of the 17th century

returns to the fairytale candlelit evenings of

yesteryear every Saturday. At nightfall, two

thousand candles light up as you explore the

castle and its magnifi cent French garden designed

by Le Nôtre to the sound of classical music. This

unforgettable setting is guaranteed to give dinner

at the domaine restaurant a romantic edge. On the

fi rst and third Saturdays of the month, the evening

ends with fi reworks over the Grand Canal.

8 pm – midnight.

+33 (0)1 64 14 41 90. www.vaux-le-vicomte.com

From Paris: RER line D, Melun then Châteaubus shuttle

service (Saturdays, Sundays and bank holidays until 11

November), or Cityrama return coach trip and ticket service,

Wednesdays and Saturdays. +33 (0)1 44 55 60 00

www.pariscityvision.com

free partly free to do as a family

Chamarande

OUTDOORS

Fontainebleau

Vaux le Vicomte

• FONTAINEBLEAU FOREST

17,000 hectares of varied landscape

classifi ed by UNESCO as a ‘biosphere

reserve’. Follow in the footsteps of the

great 19th century painters who brought

their easels here. Enjoy horse riding,

cycling or walking along 365 kilometres

of marked paths.

Tourist offi ce. +33 (0)1 60 74 99 99

www.fontainebleau-tourisme.com

MUSIC

See

p. 18

• AÏDA, OPEN-AIR OPERA

22 and 23 June

This Verdi opera directed by Élie

Chouraqui will be staged at the

Domaine de Fontainebleau.

45


BOULOGNE,

SAINT-CLOUD,

SCEAUX

a ribbon of green

From Bois de Boulogne to the Saint-Cloud and Sceaux estates, chateaux,

stately homes and spellbinding parks wind themselves around Paris. Choose

between boating on the lake to the melody of a concerto or a bag of chips

with live music. With outdoor events, shows and culture, there’s something

for everyone!

BOULOGNE

FESTIVAL

• WE LOVE GREEN

14 to 16 september

Music goes green in Parc de Bagatelle,

Bois de Boulogne.

OUTDOORS

See

p. 19

• JARDIN D’ACCLIMATATION

This eighteen-hectare recreational park, created in 1860 on the outskirts of Bois

de Boulogne is the place for all kinds of activities. A famous little train takes you

from Porte Maillot to the heart of the garden. Then take a ride on the enchanted

river, pull faces in the distorting mirrors, have a go on the zip-lines, rope bridges,

fi tness activities and more. Visit the farm, the birdhouse, the Rocher aux Daims deer

park and the demonstration apiary. Stop off at the vegetable garden, home to the

Guignol puppet show, the Korean garden and the Maison de Kiso, named after a 19 th

Century Japanese peasant. You will bump into ponies and brass bands as you enjoy

concerts, shows or an old-fashioned merry-go-round...

• JARDIN-PLAGE

Jardin-Plage returns in July and August to bring you a summer full of sun, sand and

water fun at the Jardin d’Acclimatation, opposite the Grandes Écuries. There will

be bathing huts, deckchairs, wooden decking and sand pits all in the style of the

Normandy coast, while being refreshed by sprinklers, fl ower fountains, paddling

pools and water cannons. Jardin-Plage is a haven for sand castles and picnics on

the grass, and also offers free activities with trampolines, climbing frames, table

tennis tournaments and the famous giant boat!

Jardin d’Acclimatation 45, Ave du Mahatma Gandhi, Paris 16th arrondissement.

Metro station: Sablons. Every day, 10 am – 7 pm. +33 (0)1 40 67 90 85

www.jardindacclimatation.fr

Saint-Cloud

WHAT TO VISIT

• ALBERT KAHN GARDENS

AND MUSEUM

The ‘Mongolia Between Two Eras (1912-

1913)’ exhibition is a great opportunity

to come and savour this remarkable

place. This former private mansion

belonging to philanthropist banker

Albert Kahn (1860-1940) takes you to

the heart of the steppes, home to yurts

and Buddhist temples, and introduces

you to the fi rst industrial process for

colour photography. The journey

continues around the four hectares of

garden: Japanese, French and English

gardens, and a blue and gold Vosgesstyle

forest. Don’t miss this exotic

experience.

10-14 Rue du Port, Boulogne-Billancourt.

Metro station: Boulogne Pont de Saint-

Cloud. Until 16 September, every day except

Monday, 11 am – 7 pm. +33 (0)1 55 19 28 00

http://albert-kahn.hauts-de-seine.net

46 Stay in touch via Paris Tourisme and new-paris-idf.com

Boulogne

Sceaux


SAINT-CLOUD

CINEMA MUSIC

• FILMS SOUS LES ÉTOILES

21 to 23 June

Free outdoor cinema in a beautiful

setting on the theme of the

imagination... What more could you

ask for? Before your screening, sprawl

on the lawns enjoying your own picnic

or something bought on site, or

dine in one of the restaurants of the

Domaine. Then as night falls, lie out

under the stars in front of the giant

screen for a short fi lm followed by two

feature fi lms on 21 June (The Truman

Show, Gainsbourg Vie Héroïque)

and on 22 June (Un Secret, Alice in

Wonderland). On 23 June, after an

entire night of cinema (La Belle et

la Bête, E.T., Black Swan, Mulholland

Drive), cinema night owls will breakfast

on the lawn and watch the sun rise

over Paris...

SCEAUX

FESTIVAL

• ROCK EN SEINE

24 to 26 August

Green Day, Noel Gallagher’s High

Flying Birds, Placebo, The Black Keys

and others will be rocking the Domaine

national de Saint-Cloud for the festival’s

10 th anniversary.

• CONCERTS AND WATER

SHOWS

9 and 10 June

In the 17 th Century, Louis XIV’s brother

loved to throw sumptuous feasts here

in the gardens, the work of Le Nôtre’s

famous landscaping art and the talents

of Florentine fountain-engineers.

Ornamental lakes and sculptures shining

in the sun evoke the reign of Louis XIV.

Fountains and waterfalls come alive

for the spectacular water shows. Mina

Tindle, the Psophos quartet, Le Concert

Impromptu and Rover are on the bill for a

series of performances. You’d be mad to

miss it!

• ORANGERIE DE SCEAUX FESTIVAL

15 July to 10 September

Since its construction in 1686, the Sceaux Orangerie has been

dedicated to art, and has seen the birth and rise of this classical

music festival. It focuses on quartets and piano recitals, but also

hosts a number of duets and vocal performances. This year’s festival

is also aiming to open up to new audiences, with children’s workshops

and a series of short concerts followed by candle-lit excursions to the

beautiful Musée de l’Ile de France.

+33 (0)1 46 60 00 11. www.festival-orangerie.fr

From Paris take RER line B to Bourg-la-Reine. There is a shuttle bus to the

venue before and after the concerts.

See

p. 18

SHOW

• LE GRAND FEU DE SAINT-CLOUD

8 September

Bigger and better than a gigantic fi rework show, this

is the biggest pyrotechnics display in Europe! It is the

ultimate marriage of technology and poetry, art and

technical skill and returns once again in the spirit of

public celebrations. With music, colours, a series of

bright and fl eeting displays in the beautiful setting of

the Domaine du Saint-Cloud, this is sure to be a blazing

spectacle!

Domaine National de Saint-Cloud. Metro station: Boulogne

Pont de Saint-Cloud. Gardens open every day,

7:30 am – 8 pm, 9 pm – 10 pm depending on season.

+33 (0)1 41 12 02 90

www.saint-cloud.monuments-nationaux.fr

Films sous les Étoiles, +33 (0)1 41 14 02 90

Le Grand Feu, 9 pm – 11 pm. www.le-grand-feu.com

PAUSE

• AU PÈRE LAPIN

This restaurant welcomes you to the slopes of

Suresnes, opposite the Eiffel Tower. With market-fresh

ingredients, wine-tasting sessions, a terrace and

garden for dining on the grass or under the stars...

This place is almost divine.

10 Rue du Calvaire or 186 Boulevard Washington, Suresnes.

Closed Sunday evenings. +33 (0)1 45 06 72 89

www.auperelapin.com

free partly free to do as a family

47


VERSAILLES and THOIRY

from the Sun King to the jungle kingdom

Once upon a time in Versailles… This historic town and its royal estate to

the west of Paris is one of the world’s prized heritage locations and has kept

every bit of its shining splendour from the days of the Louis XIV, known as

the Sun King. Did you know, however, that if you go a bit further west you can

stop by a jungle? Welcome to Thoiry, Kingdom of the Beasts!

CHÂTEAU DE VERSAILLES

A palace, garden, estate and events.

The very name of Versailles evokes the château of the Sun King. But

the 787-hectare site also includes the two Trianon Châteaux, Marie-

Antoinette’s estate, the French-style gardens of André Le Nôtre and

the Grand Parc.

• THE CHÂTEAU’S HISTORICAL GALLERY

All new! Eleven rooms lead you through the architectural history of

the Château de Versailles, from the initial construction of a hunting

manor for Louis XIII up to the major restoration work carried out

in the 20 th and 21 st centuries. With original works of art, paintings,

sculptures, models and multimedia displays, this is an excellent

introduction to visiting the château.

Thoiry

Versailles

• ROYAL FIREWORKS, THE TRIUMPH OF HANDEL

22, 28, 29 June, 5 and 6 July

The Château de Versailles international music festival brings

back the festive and artistic atmosphere of yesteryear. This year

it will be celebrating the wonderful Handel, a composer of Italian

operas, oratorios and other ceremonial pieces. A succulent concert

programme will be matched by fi ve explosive evening shows that

blend fi reworks and water effects on the Grand Canal to the sounds

of two orchestral masterpieces performed outdoors: Water Music,

which premiered in 1717 on the Thames, and Music for the Royal

Fireworks composed in 1749. Don’t miss out on this delectable treat

at the château.

www.chateauversailles-spectacles.fr

• MUSICAL GARDENS, MUSICAL FOUNTAINS

SHOW, FOUNTAINS NIGHT SHOW, THE ROYAL

SERENADE IN THE HALL OF MIRRORS

These magnifi cent shows are all at the Château de Versailles estate!

48 Stay in touch via Paris Tourisme and new-paris-idf.com

See

p. 13


EXHIBITIONS

• VASCONCELOS VERSAILLES

19 June to 30 September

Pots and pans transformed into shoes? Plastic cutlery turned into

traditional Portuguese jewellery? Contemporary art has been making

its mark at the estate for several years now. Contrasts and fusion

work together to produce some surprising art including both baroque

masterpieces and modern art. They make the Château de Versailles

a truly alive and creative place. This year, the Portuguese artist Joana

Vasconcelos is exhibiting her sculptures. Her approach involves

reinventing everyday items with a “ready-made” or pop art style,

producing hybrid pieces using azulejo or crochet, needlework, welding,

gold-plating, etc. These humoristic reconstructions fuse culture with

personal story and push the limits of the concept of beauty without

falling into kitsch.

• THE LADIES OF TRIANON

3 July to 7 October

Monarchs, mothers, sisters,

daughters and granddaughters of

kings and emperors, princesses and

royal favourites, ladies-in-waiting

and attendants of the queen…

all these ladies and girls whose

portraits are displayed came at one

time or another to the two small

country châteaux on the Trianon

estate. Three centuries of portraits

- from Queen Marie-Thérèse of

Austria to Empress Eugénie, from

Pompadour to Madame Campan,

Marie-Antoinette’s famous chamber

maid - are just calling out to be

discovered.

www.chateauversailles.fr

From Paris: RER line C, Versailles Rive Gauche or SNCF Montparnasse station

or Saint-Lazare station, or by Cityrama return coach trip and ticket service on

Saturdays. +33 (0)1 44 55 60 00. www.pariscityvision.com

TAKE A BREAK

• LA PETITE VENISE

The clientele just love the fine Italian

cuisine, home-made pastries and icecream

served in this tearoom-restaurant,

nestled at the heart of the Versailles

estate. When the weather is fine, its

shaded terrace surrounded by roses only

adds to its charm.

Every day (except Monday), 11 am – 6 pm.

+33 (0)1 39 53 25 69

www.lapetitevenise.com

FESTIVAL

• LE MOIS MOLIÈRE

1 to 30 June

For the 17th year running, the town of Versailles is

becoming a giant open-air festival, welcoming theatre,

music, dance and poetry into its gardens, cultural areas

and numerous historical monuments. And the good

news is that most of these high-quality performances

will be free of charge.

Maison du Mois Molière,

Place du Marché Notre-Dame, Versailles.

+33 (0)1 30 21 51 39. www.moismoliere.com

Enter another world at this 16th century château and its 150-hectare

parkland that is home to hundreds of animals located less than

an hour from Paris. Watch African animals roam freely from your

car or the Cityrama shuttle-bus along an eight-kilometre safari.

Then travel back in time to the château. It has been home to the La

Panouse family ever since 1609 and is simply oozing with objets d’art

and artefacts. And then you can wander through the historical and

botanical gardens at the zoo. Stroll through the rose garden and

fragrance garden, then traverse the bongos’ island and head through

the tiger’s ground via bridges and glass tunnels…it’s magical! From

the month of August, get close to newts, chameleons and tarantulas

in the huge, entirely wooden Arche des Petites Bêtes!

+33 (0)1 34 87 40 67. www.thoiry.net

From west Paris, 35 minutes by car or by Cityrama return coach trip and ticket

service on Sundays. +33 (0)1 44 55 60 00. www.pariscityvision.com

free partly free to do as a family

THOIRY,

CHÂTEAU AND WILDLIFE PARK

• TOURIST

INFORMATION POINT

AT VERSAILLES

Perfect for picking up tourist

information for Paris and the

region: everything you need to

know about museums, public

transport, leisure activities,

hotels, etc.

2 bis Ave. de Paris, Versailles.

9 am - 7 pm; Mondays 10 am - 6 pm.

49


ENGHIEN-LES-BAINS

a place of dreams

A spa town less than fi fteen kilometres away from Paris? No, you’re not

dreaming, but it is a place of dreams. Since the turn of the century, spa activities,

festivals and all kinds of entertainment have brought these lake shores to life

around the theme of luxury, spa, games, jazz, digital art and the dolce vita.

MUSIC

See

p. 16

• ENGHIEN JAZZ FESTIVAL

27 June to 1 July

A full programme of high-octane

concerts from a string of big names is in

store for the Enghien Jazz Festival, now

in its 13 th year.

Enghien-les-Bains

From Paris, SNCF Paris Gare du Nord station.

FESTIVAL

• BAINS NUMÉRIQUES

9 to 16 June

This 7th international festival at Enghien

is a must-see celebration of digital

art incorporating sound, image and

dance, and offering open-air discovery

trails, shows, concerts, exhibitions

and installations across the town.

Canada takes centre stage this year

in a mouth-watering programme: K,

ébauche numérique, featuring dance

sequences linked up to sound and

movement sensors, Algo & Ritmo, a

neo-music hall performance using

images, and MACHines, an exhibition

comprising techno-fantastic digital

installations. And don’t miss out on the

festival’s crowning piece: a huge electro

concert held on a fl oating stage on the

lake, headlined by Arnaud Rebotini, alias

Zend Avesta.

+33 (0)1 30 10 85 59. www.cda95.fr

Enghien-les-Bains

TAKE A BREAK

• SPARK LUCIEN BARRIÈRE

The name of this luxurious complex on the shores

of the lake is synonymous with sports and spa

treatments. Imagine complete well-being within a

bubble of elegance and serenity where you are free

to make up your own cocktail of water, light and

energy, choosing from treatments (water therapies,

Japanese baths, massages, etc), spa facilities

(infi nity pool, water trail, sauna, solarium, etc.)

and fi tness options (water aerobics, gym, cardiotraining,

etc.) This complex really does have sparkle.

7:30 am - 10 pm. +33 (0)1 39 34 10 50. www.spark-enghien.fr

• CASINO LUCIEN BARRIÈRE

This is the only casino in the Paris region – and

it’s an exciting place to be with its dazzling lights

and view of the lake. Five hundred of the latest

slot machines await you with touch screens and

Hollywood scenarios, along with around forty

gaming tables in the spacious lounges (English

and French roulettes, Black Jack, Stud Poker, Texas

Hold’em Poker etc).

Different games rooms have their own opening hours.

+33 (0)1 39 34 13 17. www.lucienbarriere.com

• CAFÉ DU LAC

As its name would suggest, this restaurant specialising

in something between traditional and inventive cuisine

is situated on the shores of the lake at Enghien. And its

terrace is simply heavenly!

+33 (0)1 39 34 11 13. www.lucienbarriere.com

50 Stay in touch via Paris Tourisme and new-paris-idf.com


AUVERS-SUR-OISE

an artist’s paradise

Pastel greens, every blue under the sun and beautiful stones... Spend a day under

the sunny skies on the banks of the river Oise and you will understand why Van Gogh

and an entire generation of celebrated painters from the late 19 th century made

this place their little capital of art.

OUTDOORS

• OUTDOOR INSPIRATION

The streets of Auvers, the church,

town hall, Dr Gachet’s house, the

Oise river and the surrounding

meadows inspired Corot, Daubigny,

Cézanne, Van Gogh and more.

Take a spellbinding walk through this

outdoor museum, with a guide or

under your own steam.

For walks, guided tours and boat trips

on the Oise, visit the Tourist Offi ce.

+33 (0)1 30 36 10 06

www.lavalleedeloise.com

WHAT TO VISIT

• CHÂTEAU D’AUVERS

This stunning classical building built in the 17th century

for one of Marie de Médicis’ advisors invites you on an

interactive journey through time entitled “Back

to the time of the Impressionists”. And until 2

September, the “Between Earth and Sky” (Entre Ciel

et Terre) exhibition, at the Château and several other

locations, will be revealing how light, clouds, refl ections

and plant life constantly inspire contemporary artists.

Tuesday to Sunday. +33 (0)1 34 48 48 48

www.chateau-auvers.fr

• AUBERGE RAVOUX, VAN GOGH’S HOUSE

Van Gogh spent the last two months of his life here in 1890. He painted around seventy canvases in

the village and surrounding areas, which he would hang to dry right here in his bedroom. The Auberge

has been restored to its original state, where the spirit of the painter still lives on. The welcoming

environment, traditional cuisine and souvenirs from the artist’s café bring the place’s memories to life..

Wednesday to Sunday. +33 (0)1 30 36 60 60. www.maisondevangogh.fr

FESTIVAL

• AUVERS FESTIVAL

1 June to 6 July

It’s all about life, discovery and freedom. This classical

jewel will be hosting composer Pascal Zavaro, and

offering an exceptional programme around him and

his work. Highlights include: Fauré’s Requiem and

Handel’s Dixit Dominus performed by the Ensemble

vocal de Lausanne for the opening night on the 1

June; Corsican singing with the Chœur d’hommes de

Sartène on 9 June; the pianist Hélène Grimaud on 20

June; the violinist Sokolov on 23 June; closing night on

6 July with Brahms’ Requiem performed by the Maîtrise

de Paris and its Male Voice Choir.

Most concerts will be held at Notre-Dame-de-L’Assomption

church. +33 (0)1 30 36 77 77. www.festival-auvers.com

free partly free to do as a family

Auvers-sur-Oise

• DIRECT TRAIN FROM PARIS

TO AUVERS-SUR-OISE

Until 21 October, Transilien SNCF is

offering a direct round-trip every

Saturday, Sunday and bank holiday from

Paris Gare du Nord: leaving at 10:08

(arriving in Auvers at 10:43), returning

from Auvers at 18:06 (arriving in Paris

at 18:39). For all other days, take RER

line A to Cergy-Préfecture or RER line C

to Pontoise then bus no. 9507 or take

SNCF the train from Saint-Lazare station

to Pontoise, then change for Auvers.

51


Edouard Manet, Olympia (1863) © Musée d’Orsay / Sophie Boegly.

2 for 1

exhibition entry in paris

double your culture with 2 for 1 entry to some of paris’s finest

museums and galleries, simply by showing your eurostar ticket.

For terms and conditions and to find out more about

the Eurostar Plus programme visit eurostar.com

Our partners in paris

In partnership with the

Paris Ile-de France Tourist Board

More magazines by this user
Similar magazines