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Volume 30, No.8 – October 2012: Timbuktu, Tequila - The Travel ...

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Vol. <strong>30</strong>, No 8 <strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong> Magazine<br />

www.thetravelsociety.com<br />

<strong>Timbuktu</strong><br />

<strong>Tequila</strong><br />

Panama<br />

Kilimanjaro


Editor<br />

Helen Hewetson<br />

helen@thetravelsociety.com<br />

Contributors<br />

John and Doreen Berg<br />

Yvonne Harrison<br />

Heinz Jaeger<br />

Publisher<br />

Nigel D Raincock<br />

nigel@thetravtelsociety.com<br />

Administrator<br />

Debbie Philip<br />

debbie@thetravelsociety.com<br />

Graphic Design & Webmaster<br />

Annie S.W. Tung<br />

annie@thetravelsociety.com<br />

NO COPYRIGHT ...<br />

we are happy to share!<br />

You are welcome to share any or all of the<br />

information contained in this magazine ...<br />

all we ask is that you credit <strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong><br />

Society as the source. ENJOY!<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Society Magazine (ISSN#1717-<br />

242X) is an independent, consumer magazine<br />

published online in Canada ten times a year. Although<br />

extreme care is taken to ensure the accuracy of<br />

material herein, <strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Society does not assume<br />

any liability for errors or omissions, for changes in fares<br />

or schedules, or for readers’ decisions based on the<br />

opinions of the editor or writers. Readers are advised<br />

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Department of Canada Heritage toward our project costs.<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong> Vol. <strong>30</strong>, No. 8<br />

2 www.thetravelsociety.com<br />

editor’s letter<br />

Hello again,<br />

Thank you to the many members who have<br />

written and called to chat, I’ve really appreciated<br />

your kind words of welcome as I start this<br />

new role. I realize that there have been some<br />

issues lately with the website (those renewal<br />

notices go out automatically! I promise!) so I<br />

want to apologize and thank you for being so<br />

patient as they’re fixed.<br />

Over the past couple of weeks I’ve learned<br />

that some things will have to change for me to<br />

take the business forward, and one of those<br />

is the computer system we use to power our<br />

website. For a little while at least, I expect there will be some hiccups. If you<br />

are experiencing any major problems, or if you have any questions, please<br />

email me directly: helen@thetravelsociety.com. If you’d prefer to call, you<br />

can reach me at the office at 1 877 926 2500 or 416 926 0111. If you have<br />

an after-hours emergency, give me a call on my mobile: 416 533 5259. If you<br />

have called or emailed and not received a response, please do try me again.<br />

I care very much that you get top customer service from me and from <strong>The</strong><br />

<strong>Travel</strong> Society.<br />

In the meantime, I thought it might be helpful for you to know a little<br />

more about me and my background. I’ve always loved writing and editing,<br />

and travel has been a passion since I was a very young child living in<br />

England. We spent several summer holidays across the channel in France,<br />

where I learned to love hearing other languages, deciphering foreign menus<br />

and discovering new places.<br />

After moving to Canada, growing up and earning an unrelated degree,<br />

I eventually turned my passion for eating strange things and getting lost into<br />

a career. I’ve been very happily employed in the travel industry since 1999,<br />

doing things like creating travel brochures, researching travel trends, and<br />

writing stories for travel magazines.<br />

I’ve had some amazing adventures as far north as the North Shetland<br />

Islands, and as far south as the South Shetlands. I’ve been captivated by<br />

the scorched frenzy of India and snorkelled the calm blue waters of Belize.<br />

I’ve wandered through an olive grove in Greece, and been swimming with<br />

penguins in Galapagos. My thirst for discovering new places and learning<br />

new things is insatiable, and the more I learn and the more I read, the longer<br />

my list of places to go becomes.<br />

<strong>The</strong> next couple of months will surely be a challenge, because although<br />

I’ve been in the industry a long time, I’m brand new to <strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Society<br />

and fixes have been a little bit tricky, so I’m grateful for your understanding! If<br />

I can help answer any questions or help you book your travel, please get in<br />

touch.<br />

Kind regards,


contents<br />

Destinations<br />

Mysterious <strong>Timbuktu</strong> 4<br />

<strong>Tequila</strong> Has it All, Except a Beach 10<br />

An Engineering Marvel <strong>–</strong> <strong>The</strong> Panamá Canal 15<br />

News<br />

Volunteer Trips for Single <strong>Travel</strong>lers 19<br />

<strong>The</strong> Canadian Transportation Agency<br />

Releases a New Tariff Repository to<br />

Help Air <strong>Travel</strong>lers Make Informed Choices<br />

BikeHike Adventures Debunks Five<br />

Kilimanjaro Myths<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> Digest 22<br />

Airline News 25<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

20<br />

21<br />

4<br />

Intricate door in <strong>Timbuktu</strong><br />

10 15<br />

3


I<br />

had always wanted to visit the mysterious <strong>Timbuktu</strong>,<br />

as the word alone signifies going to the ends of the<br />

earth. But do you know where that is? I knew<br />

getting there would be an adventure but it proved to<br />

be more of a challenge than I had anticipated. I should<br />

have known better. In 1824 the National Geographic<br />

Society of Paris offered 10,000 francs to anyone who<br />

could return with an account of the fabled cit. Over<br />

the next 20 years, 34 men tried but it was not until 1853<br />

that Heinrich Barth returned and convinced others that<br />

<strong>Timbuktu</strong> had declined to a dusty desert town.<br />

Late in <strong>October</strong>, my husband Garry and I flew<br />

to Dakar, Senegal, where we met our Dragoman tour<br />

group of two leaders, Pat and Noel, plus 22 other brave<br />

souls, aged 25 <strong>–</strong> 65, to set out on a five-week overland<br />

journey. On Tonka our truck, we had all we needed to<br />

live: tents on the roof, tables, stoves, camp chairs, dishes<br />

4 www.thetravelsociety.com<br />

Mysterious <strong>Timbuktu</strong><br />

story and photos by Yvonne Harrison<br />

<strong>Timbuktu</strong> mud mosque<br />

and food bins stored in custom-made compartments<br />

along the side. Usually we stopped at a campground,<br />

but periodically had to bush camp when we found<br />

ourselves in complete wilderness. We always hoped it<br />

would not be bush camping for two consecutive nights<br />

as that meant no showers for two nights!<br />

Our trip was relatively uneventful until the Senegal/<br />

Mali border where we had to visit four customs places<br />

<strong>–</strong> two on leaving the Senegal side - one for passport<br />

stamps and one for the truck papers <strong>–</strong> with the same<br />

process repeated on entering Mali. It took a few hours<br />

to locate these huts down side streets. Leaving the last<br />

passport check, we noticed trucks lined up for miles and<br />

wondered, “What was the problem?” We soon found<br />

out <strong>–</strong> there was a huge hole in the border bridge. <strong>The</strong><br />

officials had decided that Tonka was small enough to<br />

cross, so across we went, fortunately, as it would have


taken five additional days to drive<br />

to the next bridge and return to our<br />

scheduled route. We inched along,<br />

the left side of Tonka almost touching<br />

the side of the bridge, mirrors turned<br />

in, with the wheels on the right side at<br />

the very edge of the seven-foot hole<br />

and all of us holding our breath and<br />

praying. To say it was a relief to be on<br />

the opposite side is an understatement.<br />

It was hard to imagine that Mali was<br />

once the centre of three great empires.<br />

Stark poverty is seen everywhere.<br />

Sludge fills city sewers in the capital,<br />

Bamako; subsistence farming is seen in<br />

the countryside. As we headed towards<br />

the wilderness leading to <strong>Timbuktu</strong> I<br />

was worried as Garry was not feeling<br />

well. When we bush camped that<br />

night and he did not eat I knew he was ill, as anyone who<br />

knows Garry knows he does like his food. <strong>The</strong> next<br />

morning he was not any better and we were faced with a<br />

difficult choice. Would we go ahead with the group and<br />

sail up the Niger for three days where no medical help<br />

would be possible, or stay with Noel and Pat our drivers<br />

and bump along miles of rutted road as they brought<br />

Tonka to meet the group? What a dilemma!<br />

Every village on the Niger had a mud mosque<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

Every village on the Niger had a mud mosque<br />

<strong>The</strong> pinasse is a small, narrow motorized boat with a<br />

matted roof. It did have benches, so we decided to take<br />

the water route and start Garry on Cipro, a very strong<br />

antibiotic that we always carry with us on trips. Tents,<br />

food, jugs of drinking water and our day packs soon<br />

filled the small storage space we were allocated and we<br />

were ready to set off for <strong>Timbuktu</strong>. <strong>The</strong> group kindly<br />

gave Garry and me a front bench so he could lie down.<br />

This is where he spent the three days prone,<br />

weakly stumbling to the tent I pitched on<br />

the riverside banks in the evenings.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Niger was picturesque, dotted<br />

with many small villages consisting of<br />

small mud brick homes and always a mud<br />

mosque. We did not see any schools which<br />

was no surprise as the literacy rate of Mali<br />

is 24%. Children flocked to the water’s<br />

edge, waving at us as we passed by and<br />

clamouring around us if we docked, asking<br />

for bonbons or cadeaux.<br />

If you’re wondering about washroom<br />

arrangements on board, I’ll tell you. <strong>The</strong><br />

‘washroom’ was, in fact, a small hole at the<br />

rear of the pinasse. It wasn’t easy to use.<br />

First was the challenge of getting there, as<br />

you had to walk to the back along a 10 inch<br />

plank which was attached to the side of the<br />

boat. Next you stepped down to the floor<br />

5


of the small cubicle and pulled down your pants. (By<br />

then I was always wishing I had a skirt). You finish your<br />

business, pull up your pants, climb back onto the narrow<br />

ledge, walk the length of the boat and thankfully step<br />

down onto your seat. I drank as little as possible on the<br />

trip as it was too much trouble to get to the bathroom.<br />

Now if anyone is wondering where the contents of the<br />

hole went you probably guessed correctly <strong>–</strong> straight<br />

down into the Niger River. <strong>The</strong> first day at lunch I<br />

saw one of our crew dip his mug into the river as we<br />

chugged along. When he swallowed that polluted water<br />

I decided to drink only the treated water from the jerry<br />

cans we had brought and to live on granola bars. I could<br />

not face using the dishes washed in that polluted water.<br />

One ‘sickie’ in the family was enough. Who would put<br />

up the tent if I succumbed too?<br />

<strong>The</strong> cook had a small kitchen area right in front of<br />

our deluxe bathroom and she prepared the meals cross<br />

legged in front of her charcoal stove. <strong>The</strong> food was<br />

6 www.thetravelsociety.com<br />

passed up on plastic plates. It looked good but I was<br />

content to chew on my North American granola bars.<br />

<strong>The</strong> first night we stayed on huge sand dunes by a<br />

Bozo fishing village. I pitched the tent, helped Garry<br />

reach it, then walked to the village. It is hard to describe<br />

the absolute poverty most of the people endure. It is<br />

easy to believe that Mali is ranked the third poorest<br />

country in the world with a life expectancy of less than<br />

50.<br />

In the morning we were off for another full day of<br />

river transport, passing the sparse vegetation and hot<br />

barren villages. We did not see any other tourists but<br />

often met locals with heavily loaded pinasses.<br />

<strong>The</strong> highlight of our third day on the Niger was<br />

seeing Noel and Pat standing beside Tonka as we neared<br />

Korioume, the port a few miles from <strong>Timbuktu</strong>. I was<br />

so excited <strong>–</strong> was it because I knew there were doctors<br />

there or was it finally realizing my dream of reaching this<br />

remote settlement?<br />

Entering for tea


<strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

Children along the Niger<br />

Today this legendary outpost has none of the fabled<br />

opulence that it had in the past when it was an important<br />

commercial centre. It is now a town of sandy streets and<br />

mud-brick houses. Caravans periodically do come in<br />

laden with goods from the Sahara but not the thousands<br />

of camels as in the past. Garry’s memory of this place is<br />

resting in our hotel and finally being able to eat after six<br />

days of involuntary fasting. He was<br />

weak but on the road to recoveryclinic<br />

in case he picked up more<br />

germs there.<br />

We viewed three mud mosques<br />

and many mud homes on the brief<br />

city tour. <strong>The</strong> doors were very<br />

interesting as they were studded with<br />

silver and one round silver knocker.<br />

In the past, women were not allowed<br />

outside or even to be seen by others.<br />

When the husband came home he<br />

knocked with the silver circle hitting<br />

one of the studs. If anyone else came,<br />

they knocked on the wooden part of<br />

the door. That way the wife knew<br />

by the sound if she could answer<br />

the door, as she was only allowed to<br />

open it for her husband. Windows<br />

were constructed with shutters so the<br />

women could look out but no one<br />

from the street could see in.<br />

<strong>The</strong> highlight of the<br />

<strong>Timbuktu</strong> tour was a visit to a<br />

nomadic Tuareg encampment.<br />

Here we sat cross legged<br />

having tea in a tent, with three<br />

Tuaregs robed in vivid blue<br />

with the massive turbans of<br />

the same colour. <strong>The</strong> leader<br />

explained how he crosses the<br />

desert by the stars the way<br />

his father taught him. As he<br />

entertained us, telling about<br />

their nomadic lifestyle, his<br />

brother made tea for us. At<br />

first as I watched the elaborate<br />

ritual all I could think of<br />

was, “Did he really boil the<br />

water?” But I soon became<br />

mesmerized with the ritual. <strong>The</strong> tea leaves were put into<br />

a small glass then transferred into small teapot filled with<br />

hot water that was returned to sit atop the small charcoal<br />

burner. <strong>The</strong> tea was next poured from a height into the<br />

three glasses, creating a foam. This was repeated several<br />

times until our host was satisfied the brew was perfect.<br />

<strong>The</strong>n the three glasses were passed around for all seven<br />

of us to share. <strong>The</strong> next round, the ritual was repeated<br />

Tea with the Tuaregs<br />

7


ut sugar was added. <strong>The</strong> third round was the last and<br />

by this time I was not even thinking about the possible<br />

germs as I contently sipped from the communal glasses.<br />

Walking back through their courtyard, I purchased two<br />

camel-skin jewellery boxes with Tuareg designs etched<br />

on the lid as a souvenir of this memorable day.<br />

I had been disappointed when I was planning our<br />

trip to see we had such a short time in <strong>Timbuktu</strong>, but<br />

after spending two nights there we were ready to move<br />

on. We crossed the Niger River on a small ferry and<br />

then Tonka took us safely through the desert back to<br />

civilization.<br />

I waited until we were back in Canada to tell Garry<br />

of the red alert warning I had read from our government<br />

before leaving - “DO NOT to travel to <strong>Timbuktu</strong> due to<br />

the presence of armed groups and the threat of bandits<br />

and kidnapping.” But as we bounced across the Sahara<br />

I couldn’t have been happier. We had made it to the<br />

‘ends of the earth’ - Mysterious <strong>Timbuktu</strong>; we had not<br />

encountered any rebels and my husband was well on his<br />

way back to being that healthy man I had started the trip<br />

with. More adventures lay ahead - again more than I<br />

had anticipated - but that’s another story.<br />

<strong>The</strong> practical information …<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Timbuktu</strong> trip was a section of a five-week trip<br />

called Nomadic West Africa organized by the British<br />

company Dragoman www.dragoman.com who have<br />

been offering overland travel for over <strong>30</strong> years. Our<br />

8 www.thetravelsociety.com<br />

five-week section was only part of a 14-week trip from<br />

the tip of Morocco to Douala in Cameroon. Most<br />

in the group were doing it all, but we agreed five weeks<br />

was long enough! In Canada, Dragoman tours can<br />

be booked through Adventure Center www.<br />

adventurecenter.com 1 866 338 8735. Or call <strong>The</strong><br />

<strong>Travel</strong> Society at 1 877 926 2500 and we will take<br />

care of your whole booking. It was a very rugged trip<br />

which involved having to shop in the markets, prepare<br />

meals and set up your tent. Most of our group had<br />

done many Dragoman trips and said this was one of the<br />

toughest. Yet two in our group were travelling for over<br />

a year, going on several of these extensive trips back to<br />

back.<br />

Entrance to <strong>Timbuktu</strong><br />

Pinasse on the Niger


<strong>Tequila</strong> Has it All,<br />

Except a Beach<br />

W<br />

hen tourists in Mexico mention <strong>Tequila</strong>,<br />

numerous images spring to mind. Certainly,<br />

one thought that is often overlooked is to<br />

consider <strong>Tequila</strong> as a multifaceted tourist<br />

destination. <strong>The</strong> majority of tourists visiting <strong>Tequila</strong><br />

simply tour a distillery and partake of its famous<br />

drink then immediately return to the Puerto Vallarta<br />

coastal area or to the Guadalajara region. <strong>Tequila</strong><br />

and the surrounding countryside has much more to<br />

offer. <strong>The</strong> inquisitive tourist is able to plan excursions<br />

to visit exceptional museums, historical sites, natural<br />

springs, concentrical pyramids, spherical boulders and<br />

photographical landscapes as well as taste-testing tequila,<br />

and all at a reasonable price. What more could the<br />

intrepid tourist wish for?<br />

Each winter season, Doreen and I abandon the<br />

damp chilling British Columbia rains to enjoy the warm<br />

dazzling sun and clear sparkling waters of the Mexican<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

story and photos by John and Doreen Berg<br />

Riviera, Nayarit. Basking on the beach with warm<br />

sands trickling between our toes, with pristine waters<br />

washing against the shore, and with frequent fitness<br />

hikes continue to be our Mexican activities. However,<br />

after a month or so we require an alternative to<br />

enjoying our beach paradise and our decadent lifestyle<br />

and must seek different destinations. Last season we<br />

visited <strong>Tequila</strong> and enjoyed the town’s ambiance so we<br />

decided to revisit <strong>Tequila</strong> and expand our travel plans<br />

to include excursions to two nearby archaeological sites:<br />

Los Guachimontones and Piedras Bola. <strong>The</strong> interior<br />

destinations seemed the ideal region for us to visit as we<br />

both enjoy exploring Mexican ruins and learning more<br />

about the regional history.<br />

An 8:<strong>30</strong> a.m. start, saw us loading our one suitcase<br />

into the back of our rented Jeep Cherokee. We drove<br />

from Rincón de Guayabitos, stopping at Las Varas to<br />

enjoy a breakfast in our favorite restaurant, La Birra<br />

9


de Angelita. After hueves rancheros and a Mexican<br />

omelette washed down with numerous cups of coffee,<br />

we headed toward Compostela, where we switched to<br />

the toll road (cuota) and continued driving to Chapalilla<br />

and here changed back to the free road (libra). Along<br />

the roadside many small pottery stalls can be found. It’s<br />

a great place to pause to purchase pottery gift items.<br />

Our purchase was four different shaped and coloured<br />

coffee mug sets for family Christmas gifts! Nice when<br />

you luck out as the four kids loved the gift mugs!<br />

Continuing along Highway 15 the next major town<br />

encountered is Ahaucatlán. On this year’s trip we elected<br />

not to turn off to again visit the wonderful hot springs at<br />

Burranca de Oro. <strong>The</strong> springs are located deep in a<br />

narrow canyon with sturdy access walkways, adequate<br />

change rooms, and a variety of swimming pools. Located<br />

at the canyon’s rim is a restaurant and accommodations.<br />

Last year our group of four spent an enjoyable few hours<br />

swimming, exploring and consuming a poolside lunch.<br />

Barranca de Oro would be a convenient overnight stop.<br />

However, we elected to push on to <strong>Tequila</strong>. Attempt to<br />

find time to enjoy Barranca de Oro as it is a fascinating<br />

spot and will be a complete surprise.<br />

We returned to Highway 27 driving to Etzatlán<br />

junction where we turned north to Magdalena to join the<br />

toll road to <strong>Tequila</strong>. <strong>The</strong> secondary road is satisfactory<br />

but expect rough sections. If in no hurry, Highway 15<br />

is a scenic drive passing through farmlands and small<br />

villages. An alternate to consider is to drive back to<br />

Ahaucatlán and take the faster toll highway directly to<br />

<strong>Tequila</strong>. From the elevated <strong>Tequila</strong> approach highway<br />

you can enjoy sweeping views of the agave fields. <strong>The</strong><br />

area was declared a World Heritage site in 2006!<br />

This trip we managed an earlier mid-afternoon arrival<br />

at Hotel La Rienda Mision Tequillan’s enclosed parking<br />

area. <strong>The</strong> hotel is centrally located in <strong>Tequila</strong>’s historic<br />

downtown area. Once checked in it was a short walk to<br />

visit the 17th Century Santiago Apostol Church and a<br />

few meters away is the Plaza de Arms, complete with a<br />

colourful bandstand. Located just off the square is the<br />

Sauza Family Grandparent’s Museum. <strong>The</strong> museum is<br />

certainly worth a visit! Here you’ll find personal artifacts<br />

that once belonged to the Sauze family, as well as displays<br />

depicting the traditional tequila-making process. After<br />

our museum visit we noticed tequila keg-shaped vehicles<br />

parked nearby. Couldn’t miss them! After inquiring<br />

we booked a distillery tour for the following morning.<br />

10 www.thetravelsociety.com<br />

<strong>Tequila</strong><br />

Next was a search for an evening meal. After checking<br />

out several restaurants we decided to dine at Cafe Rossy<br />

and later watch the social interactions in the plaza. A<br />

few night photos and it was back to the hotel to tuck in.<br />

Probably the most popular distillery tour is the José<br />

Cuervo Distillery as its within easy walking distance<br />

from the plaza. Having visited three distilleries over<br />

the seasons, José Cuervo, La Cofradia and Romo,<br />

we recommend the Romo Distillery Tour. <strong>The</strong> tour<br />

provided a visit to the original distillery area where<br />

we were able to view the old washing stands where<br />

once ladies chatted as they washed their clothing. Did<br />

these ancient wash stands evolve into our present day<br />

laundromats? Next stop was a visit to Distillery Reyes,<br />

an older equipped factory which only operates part of<br />

the year. After a brief tour and a few sample drinks we<br />

felt an obligation to purchase an almond tequila drink<br />

which, I’m sure, pleased everyone.<br />

Back on the <strong>Tequila</strong> bus to visit a blue-tinted agave<br />

field followed by a tour of the Romo Distillery. At the<br />

time of our visit the plant was in full operation enabling us<br />

to enjoy the sweet smell of cooked agave nectar wafting<br />

through the spotlessly clean distillery. I was surprised,<br />

for safety reasons, at how near the tour guide brought us<br />

to moving tractors and operational machinery. <strong>The</strong> keg


<strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

<strong>Tequila</strong><br />

tour bus returned us to Plaza de Arms where a visit to an<br />

obsidian (volcanic rock) stall led to a home factory visit!<br />

As we chatted and admired the curved obsidian shapes<br />

the owner invited us to his home workshop to view how<br />

the beautiful obsidian pieces were made. A short taxi<br />

ride brought us to his abode.<br />

We entered the living quarters and passed through<br />

to the rear factory area. Not a large workshop where<br />

four or five workers were busy working at various<br />

machines cutting, shaping and polishing obsidian pieces.<br />

Out of all the designs the ever-popular heart shape was<br />

the favourite as it allows one to appreciate the beautiful<br />

colours of the rainbow obsidian and it sells well too!<br />

Doreen fell in love with a beautiful 20 -25 cm tall female<br />

statue of silver sheen obsidian. At the time, the price<br />

caused us to reconsider its purchase. However, in<br />

hindsight, Doreen wishes she had purchased the lovely<br />

lady. Over time the price would be forgotten but the<br />

statue’s beauty would continue to be<br />

enjoyed in our living room. Or this<br />

is what I’m being led to believe! <strong>The</strong><br />

final event of the day was a dinner at<br />

El Palmolar Restaurant on the church<br />

square.<br />

<strong>The</strong> next day after a breakfast<br />

at the market we visited, Nunat, the<br />

National Museum of <strong>Tequila</strong>. <strong>The</strong><br />

museum depicted the history of<br />

tequila making complete with tequila<br />

bottles from three generations of Sauza production. We<br />

returned to Hotel La Rienda to collect our baggage and<br />

check out. We retraced our drive back to Magdalena<br />

but before turning off to Etzatlán we browsed the local<br />

shops selling opal and obsidian handicrafts. I’m sure<br />

their beautiful store displays will tempt a purchase or<br />

two.<br />

From Etzatlán we drove Highway 27 to Teuchitlán<br />

watching for the turnoff to Los Guachimontones, the<br />

archaeological site of the round step pyramids. <strong>The</strong> site<br />

is easily located with highway signage to keep you on<br />

track and a paved road into the site’s parking lot.<br />

Los Guachimontones was discovered some fifty<br />

years ago, quite by accident. Apparently, Dr. Phil<br />

Weigand and a teacher Acelia Garcia stumbled upon<br />

some skilfully crafted obsidian objects in the town<br />

of Teuchitlán. Further investigation led the pair to<br />

present-day Los Guachimontones. <strong>The</strong> site continues<br />

to be excavated and present literature states there are<br />

10 pyramids and the main round step pyramid is named<br />

“La Iguana.” It is approximately 10 meters high and<br />

has a diameter of 29 meters. La Iguana is an impressive<br />

mass and quite different structurally as compared to the<br />

East Coast Mayan pyramids.<br />

We observed a tour guide and his student group<br />

performing ancient chants. Later we spoke with the<br />

tour guide and he informed us that each year previous<br />

to March 21st, people come to Los Guachimontones<br />

and for two days, dressed in white, they take part in<br />

indigenous rituals which includes native dances and<br />

concerts with pre-Hispanic music.<br />

Climbing a hill behind the main pyramid presented<br />

us with an excellent overview of the site with La Iguana<br />

in the foreground and Teuchitlán combined with Lake<br />

Presa de la Vega in the background. A great photo<br />

opportunity! Los Guachimontones is a splendid<br />

Los Guachimontones<br />

11


archaeological site to visit, and is especially important<br />

to the Jalisco region which only a few years ago was<br />

thought to contain few if any archaeological finds.<br />

At the day’s end was a return drive to Etzatlán<br />

where Hotel El Centenario, our hotel choice for the<br />

night, is centrally located. <strong>The</strong> hotel can be found<br />

just off the corner of the town’s main plaza. <strong>The</strong> hotel<br />

has great ambiance with an airy courtyard ringed with<br />

antique furniture plus our room was spacious and well<br />

appointed. <strong>The</strong> courtyard was a great spot to relax<br />

and enjoy a card game before our rumbling stomachs<br />

encouraged us to venture out for an evening dinner.<br />

Unfortunately, we found it difficult to locate a suitable<br />

restaurant. <strong>The</strong> one that was recommended turned<br />

out to be mainly for lunch or breakfast dining. Finally<br />

finding a restaurant, we consumed an “okay” meal and<br />

after watching dancers in the plaza and enjoying an icecream<br />

we returned to our hotel for a well-earned sleep.<br />

After our breakfast next day we visited the Oaxicar<br />

Museum with its recreations of shaft tombs, clay pottery<br />

and many more artifacts. Next on our agenda and our<br />

main goal for the day found us enroute on Highway<br />

27 driving toward Ahualulco de Mercado to find the<br />

protected area of Piedras Bola (round boulders). Just<br />

before Ahualulco we turned onto Highway 608 driving<br />

towards Ameca for 14 km. <strong>The</strong> highway climbs from<br />

the valley floor into the mountains. Just past the 14 km<br />

marker is a pullout area complete with a clearly illustrated<br />

park map. Well worth taking time to study the map to<br />

12 www.thetravelsociety.com<br />

Etzatlan Museum<br />

obtain an understanding of the parks<br />

layout and the location of the round<br />

boulders. Unfortunately, we failed<br />

to notice the pullout and signage<br />

on our journey into the park. As a<br />

result we missed the park’s signature<br />

display of tall compacted soil mounds<br />

each supporting a single round stone<br />

ball. Apparently they’re located<br />

about 1.5 km from the amphitheatre<br />

and behind the main boulder find!<br />

<strong>The</strong> 5 km single lane dirt/gravel road<br />

was in good condition and while we<br />

navigated it slowly we encountered<br />

no difficulties or other vehicles. It<br />

would appear that the park was an<br />

ecotourism project that is either<br />

seasonal, or didn’t gain popularity,<br />

or monetary funds were withdrawn.<br />

We passed camping spots, hiking trails and zip lines in<br />

disrepair and without seeing a soul. <strong>The</strong> park seemed<br />

deserted. And what a shame as there appeared to be<br />

much potential for a variety of outdoor recreational<br />

activities.<br />

At the Piedras Bola site we found an amphitheatre<br />

with benches, an administrative building and numerous<br />

toilets with their doors flapping in the breeze. We<br />

followed a path past here and soon encountered the first<br />

of many round boulders. What an amazing sight! We<br />

wandered the area taking numerous photos, in complete<br />

awe of the huge perfectly formed spherical stones.<br />

Some approximately two meters in diameter, numerous<br />

smaller boulders scattered here and there and many<br />

partially buried with their round tops poking above the<br />

ground’s surface.<br />

Naturally questions sprinkled our discussions as we<br />

asked ourselves how were these many perfectly round<br />

boulders formed and how did they get here? As you can<br />

imagine there are many theories and legends to explain<br />

the phenomena. After much “intellectual” speculation<br />

our theory is that centuries ago gigantic giants occupied<br />

the park area and the Piedras Bola site was their outdoor<br />

bowling alley! Visit and research the site to formulate<br />

your own theory! Our return drive back to the main<br />

highway was quicker and more comfortable as local<br />

road conditions were now known to us.<br />

Once we rejoined the highway our focus was<br />

to return to our coastal hotel before night fall, for us


avoiding Mexican night driving is a cardinal safety rule.<br />

Since we knew the route it wasn’t long before we reached<br />

the Magdalena junction , switching to the pay highway<br />

brought us quickly to Compostela. <strong>The</strong> next driving<br />

segment found us arriving at Rincón de Guayabitos late<br />

afternoon. A brief visit to the shops to purchase dinner<br />

items and we soon found ourselves safe and sound in<br />

our bungalow preparing our evening meal.<br />

<strong>The</strong> three-day road trip exceeded our expectations.<br />

With a variety of Mexican towns, archaeological sites,<br />

informative museums and active tours we were exposed<br />

to a great host of experiences to recall and share. For<br />

us the trip was not only a learning experience but also<br />

provided an alternative to our beach life. One thing<br />

for sure- this was a journey to remember and one we<br />

encourage others to travel and to expand the time frame<br />

to include visits to other interesting nearby spots.<br />

Helpful Facts: Jalisco, Mexico<br />

<strong>Tequila</strong><br />

Hotel<br />

Hotel La Rienda Mision Tequillan<br />

Abasolo #47 Centro<br />

www.tequillan.com.mx<br />

Phone: 374 742-3232<br />

Great location with secured parking. Rooms well<br />

appointed 450 pesos ($37.50)<br />

Restaurants<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

Pietras Bola<br />

Real Marinera- Seafood Restaurant<br />

Juarez # 92 Atrás de Parriquia Cáfe<br />

Rossy and Pasteleria<br />

Two restaurants located beside each other on the square<br />

in front of the church. Great spot late evening for eating<br />

and people watching.<br />

Local Market -located beside church plaza<br />

*Many small restaurants<br />

* Great for breakfast<br />

Tours<br />

Tranvias Turisticos de <strong>Tequila</strong> -Look for tequila keg<br />

van<br />

Tour time - two hours approximately every<br />

<strong>30</strong> minutes<br />

Mon - Fri 10:00 a.m. - 4:<strong>30</strong> p.m.<br />

Sat. - Sun. 10:00 a.m.- 5:<strong>30</strong> p.m.<br />

100 pesos ( $10 approx. )<br />

www.vistandojalisco.com.mx<br />

Phone: 045-33-12-99 7536<br />

Museums<br />

• Sauza Family Museum<br />

• Vicente Albino Rojas #22<br />

• Central Plaza behind the bandstand - Features family<br />

memorabilia. 10 pesos ($1 approximately)<br />

• National Museum of <strong>Tequila</strong><br />

• Ramón Corona # 34 - Well designed displays of<br />

photos and artifacts detailing the history of <strong>Tequila</strong>.<br />

Water Park<br />

Parque Acuatico La Toma<br />

• La Toma water park is an often a missed destination<br />

. Cascading natural spring water, swimming pools,<br />

panoramic views and much more. La Toma is<br />

located approximately two kilometres on the right<br />

hand side of the highway driving towards Magdalena.<br />

While we didn’t partake of the swimming it was<br />

enjoyable to visit and wander the walkways and take<br />

advantage of an opportune photo shoot. Take a few<br />

hours to kick back and enjoy La Toma water park.<br />

Barranca de Oro<br />

• Located a short drive from Ahaucatlán off Highway<br />

15.<strong>The</strong> canyon development is a man’s life time<br />

dream project and he has done a wonderful job<br />

13


of developing the location. <strong>The</strong>re are a variety<br />

of swimming pools to enjoy and paths to follow<br />

providing an opportunity for the camera buffs to<br />

photograph the steep colourful canyon walls. Great<br />

spot to spend a day swimming and relaxing.<br />

Etzatlán<br />

Hotel<br />

Hotel El Centenario<br />

Escobedo 290, Etzatlán 500 pesos ($50) Rooms are<br />

well-appointed, secure parking , splendid courtyard<br />

Museum<br />

Oaxicar Archaeological Museum housed in the House<br />

of Culture has a collection of pre-Hispanic artefacts. A<br />

short walk from the main plaza<br />

Escobedo # 359 Centro, Monday to Saturday 10:00<br />

a.m. to 2:00 p.m Sunday 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.<br />

Teuchitlán<br />

Hotel<br />

Hacienda El Carmen described in James and Sonia’s<br />

TTS September 2011 article is nearby.<br />

Museum<br />

Museum of Archaeology: Located in Teuchitlán’s<br />

cultural center. <strong>The</strong> museum exhibits artifacts, obsidian<br />

objects, and stone utensils.<br />

16 de Septiembre 10, Monday to Friday 9:00 a.m. to<br />

7:00 p.m. Saturday to Sunday 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.<br />

Amatitán<br />

You will find the Inmaculada Concepción Church with<br />

a beautiful plaza and picturesque surrounding area<br />

approximately 11 kilometres from <strong>Tequila</strong> on Highway<br />

15.<br />

Other Road Trip Opportunities reported in<br />

TTS:<br />

1) “<strong>The</strong> Hidden Gems Close to P.V.” by James and<br />

Sonia Symes, vol. 29, No. 7, September 2011<br />

James and Sonia’s article stimulated us to share our<br />

similar driving adventure. An intriguing happening is<br />

that Sonia and I had connected soon after completing<br />

14 www.thetravelsociety.com<br />

our respective road trips. Experiencing a “similar<br />

moment” I was unable to recall where or how we met,<br />

but somehow we compared our experiences. In fact<br />

I’ve Sonia’s first draft on my desk! Small world!<br />

2) “ <strong>The</strong> Mexican Riviera Beyond the Beautiful Beaches”<br />

by John and Doreen Berg, vol. 28, No. 9, November<br />

2010. Outlines an exploratory drive to a small interior<br />

silver town, San Sebastian. Provides driving directions,<br />

restaurant selections and a great hotel. Drive is on a<br />

very good paved highway!<br />

3) “Visiting the Sierra-Madre Silver Towns Beyond<br />

Puerto Vallarta” by John and Doreen Berg, Vol. 29, No.<br />

7, September 2011. <strong>The</strong> article re-traces our steps to San<br />

Sebastián del Oeste and Mascota, with the main focus to<br />

tell about our exploration of Talpa de Allende, another<br />

easy, but rewarding road trip from Puerto Vallarta.<br />

John and Doreen Berg


An Engineering Marvel<br />

<strong>–</strong> <strong>The</strong> Panamá Canal<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

story and photos by Heinz Jaeger<br />

T<br />

he word Panamá usually evokes visions of the<br />

famous canal and, rightly so, the Panamá Canal<br />

is the country’s most distinct feature. It is without<br />

question a fantastic engineering accomplishment, a cross<br />

road of the world and a major source of income for the<br />

country. <strong>The</strong> 80 km long canal connects the Atlantic<br />

(via the Caribbean Sea) and the Pacific Ocean on the<br />

narrowest part of the American continent and thus<br />

provides a much shorter shipping route than around the<br />

southern tip of the continent. Curiously it runs almost<br />

exactly north-south, rather than east-west as one would<br />

expect.<br />

<strong>The</strong> centennial Bridge at the narrowest part of the canal<br />

15


<strong>The</strong> route of the canal was used soon after the<br />

discovery of the continent by Spanish conquistadors<br />

to move the gold and silver they had plundered from<br />

the Inca temples in Peru across the continent to a place<br />

from where it could be shipped across the Atlantic to<br />

Spain. By 1515 they had established settlements on both<br />

coasts connected by a path, called the Camino Royal,<br />

through the thick jungle and across the mountains on<br />

the continental divide. <strong>The</strong> southern port on the Pacific<br />

was known as Old Panamá, or Panamá Viejo, which by<br />

1670 had more than 10,000 inhabitants. <strong>The</strong> goods were<br />

shipped from Peru, unloaded at Panamá and the carried<br />

by foot and mule to the other side of the isthmus where<br />

they were reloaded onto ships for transfer to Spain. It is<br />

estimated that 60% of all gold and silver from the New<br />

World was transported along this route. Spain became<br />

very rich!<br />

Obviously Britain and Holland, the other competing<br />

colonial powers of that time, became very envious and<br />

tried to disrupt the flow of treasures from reaching their<br />

destination. <strong>The</strong>y encouraged and even sanctioned<br />

attacks by pirates to attack the Spanish vessels. <strong>The</strong><br />

most famous of these pirates was a Welsh native Henry<br />

Morgan, who in 1668 attacked the northern port, Fort<br />

San Lorenzo, and plundered its warehouses. Three<br />

years later he returned, marched through the jungle and<br />

attacked Old Panamá from the rear and burned it down,<br />

causing the loss of thousands of lives. However, he found<br />

16 www.thetravelsociety.com<br />

Decorated balconies<br />

little gold, as the Spanish had stored it<br />

off shore on vessels hidden among the<br />

Perl Islands.<br />

A story is told that the church of St.<br />

Joseph in Old Panamá contained a<br />

golden altar. When Morgan attacked,<br />

the local priest, Father Juan, painted<br />

it black, and when he was confronted<br />

by Morgan about its whereabouts, he<br />

replied that the altar was stolen by<br />

pirates on a previous attack. He even<br />

asked Morgan for a donation. After<br />

he had handed him some money,<br />

Morgan is told to have said: “I don’t<br />

know why, but I think you are more<br />

of a pirate than I am!” <strong>The</strong> remaining<br />

inhabitants rebuilt the city on a new<br />

site 6 km to the west in an area called<br />

“Casco Viejo” or Old Helmet.<br />

We visited the ruins of Panamá Viejo and climbed<br />

the only still standing structure, the tower of the church,<br />

from where we had a good view over this area. Later we<br />

went to Casco Viejo, also called San Felipe, which is still<br />

a lively part of modern Panamá City. Here we strolled<br />

through the old lanes, admired the beautiful facades<br />

of some still standing Spanish buildings, and saw the<br />

famous altar in the rebuilt church of St Joseph.<br />

Panamá City with some 1.3 million inhabitants has<br />

all aspects and conveniences of a modern city: big hotels<br />

and shopping malls, and also some 180 skyscrapers<br />

as well as traffic jams. We drove through the city to<br />

the Miraflores Lock, the second lock when coming<br />

More skyscrapers than in Toronto


from the Pacific, where we had lunch in<br />

the observation tower. We were fascinated<br />

watching how three little locomotives on each<br />

side, called mules with <strong>30</strong>0 hp engines, kept<br />

the huge ocean freighters exactly centered<br />

in the lock chambers. <strong>The</strong>re is less than 60<br />

cm free space on either side, and any contact<br />

with the lock wall must be avoided to prevent<br />

severe damage.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Camino Royal was still in use when<br />

eager prospectors used it to reach the gold<br />

fields of California 1848, rather than sail<br />

around Cape Horn. It took four days to<br />

reach the Pacific with mules to carry their<br />

supplies, and the trip was onerous due<br />

to the mosquitoes and poisonous snakes.<br />

This provided motivation to build a railway along the<br />

route, which went into service in 1855, with a first class<br />

ticket costing $25, the highest price in the world for<br />

a 1 hour train ride. It was the most profitable railway<br />

ever, but good times did not last long. In 1860 the<br />

first transcontinental railway in the US was completed,<br />

providing travelers with an even shorter route, and in<br />

1877 the Panama Railway Company was bankrupt. It<br />

was brought back to life during the canal’s construction,<br />

hauling material and workers, and it is still used today<br />

hauling containers from coast to coast. <strong>The</strong> containers<br />

are loaded on one side from the ship to the rail cars and<br />

transported across the isthmus onto waiting vessels on<br />

the other side. It takes longer but shipping companies<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

Final dinner entertainment<br />

A huke tanker held in the center of the lock by the Mules<br />

can avoid the hefty canal transit fees.<br />

When building the canal was first started in 1882 by<br />

the French entrepreneur Count Ferdinand de Lesseps,<br />

who had just built the Suez Canal, it was supposed to be<br />

a sea level route without locks, similar to Suez. However,<br />

Lesseps had not counted on hard rock rather than<br />

Sahara sand, torrential rains causing frequent landslides,<br />

tropical humid heat and swarms of mosquitoes carrying<br />

malaria and yellow fever. <strong>The</strong> work progressed much<br />

slower than planned, costs rose continuously and after<br />

7years, when 22,000 workers had died but less than 10%<br />

of the excavation had been completed, the company<br />

went bankrupt.<br />

In 1901 President Roosevelt obtained<br />

congressional approval to build a<br />

Central American canal. But Panamá at<br />

that time was a province of Colombia,<br />

and Colombia refused to sell the land.<br />

Roosevelt was patient; in 1903 Panamanian<br />

freedom fighters succeeded in obtaining<br />

independence from Colombia, and the<br />

USA was given control over a 10 mile<br />

wide strip of land to build the canal.<br />

Roosevelt in 1905 appointed John Stevens,<br />

a railway engineer to take over the project.<br />

His first priority was to put into place a<br />

public health campaign to control the<br />

mosquito carried malaria and yellow fever<br />

which had killed so many Frenchmen.<br />

He then convinced Roosevelt of the need<br />

17


for a locks and storage lake model for the canal. <strong>The</strong><br />

Chagres River would be dammed, creating Gatun Lake,<br />

at that time the largest man-made lake in the world. <strong>The</strong><br />

stored water at an elevation of 26 meter above sea level<br />

would provide all the gravitational power needed to lift<br />

the ships up to the lake and then down again. This is<br />

an ingenious system, made possible by the abundant<br />

rainfall to replenish the reservoir. Eleven years later on<br />

August 15, 1914 the canal was officially opened and has<br />

operated in the envisioned way ever since. Transit time<br />

is about nine hours from ocean to ocean.<br />

<strong>The</strong> next day we drove to Colon on the Caribbean<br />

side of the canal, with its huge warehouses in the “Free<br />

Trade Zone”, and visited Gatun Lock. In the afternoon<br />

we took a boat ride on Lake Gatun with its many<br />

islands and bays. Monkeys live on some of the islands,<br />

depending on tourists for handouts.<br />

Starting on Gatun Lake with a small passenger<br />

boat, we partially transited the canal. We went through<br />

the Culebra Cut where the canal cuts through the<br />

continental divide, and then through the Miraflores<br />

and Pedro Miguel Locks and finally passed under the<br />

Centennial Bridge and the Bridge of the Americas<br />

before we reached the Pacific Ocean, where many large<br />

vessels were waiting to go through the canal. <strong>The</strong> boat<br />

tour ended on the causeway to the three islands in front<br />

18 www.thetravelsociety.com<br />

<strong>The</strong> remaining church tower at Panama Viejo<br />

of Panama City, and from there we drove back to the<br />

Rainforest Resort.<br />

South-east of Panamá City and extending to the<br />

border of Colombia lies a huge area of largely unexplored<br />

rainforest. Even the Transamerica Highway, which goes<br />

from Alaska to the tip of Argentina, has not been able<br />

to cross this area due to its difficult terrain; the missing<br />

section is called the Darien Gap. A tribe of indigenous<br />

people, the Embera, are still living somewhere in this<br />

jungle. About 20 years ago a few members of this tribe<br />

fled the area because of terrorist activities and settled<br />

in a smaller rainforest west of Gamboa on the Chagres<br />

River. In the year 2,000 this forest was made into a nature<br />

reserve and the small group of natives could not longer<br />

cut trees and hunt. <strong>The</strong>y now live from fishing and<br />

producing beautiful handicraft. We visited their village,<br />

which is supported by the government, and listened to<br />

stories of their lives.<br />

Our final two days were spent in the Playa Blanca<br />

Beach Resort on the Pacific, about 100 km west of<br />

Panamá City. From here we went on a brief excursion<br />

to the town of El Valle, located in the crater of an extinct<br />

volcano. Although it is a nice little town, where a number<br />

of expatriate retirees have built their home, it is quite<br />

isolated and has very limited supplies and services.<br />

On the way back to Paraná City via the Bridge of<br />

the Americas we stopped briefly at the small market of<br />

the Kuna people, who live on the San Blas Islands in<br />

the Caribbean, but come here to sell their wares. <strong>The</strong>y<br />

are famous for producing Molas, colorfully patterned<br />

pieces of clothing made by a reverse appliqué method,<br />

with stitches so small that they are virtually invisible. Our<br />

final dinner was served in the Miraflores Dining Room,<br />

followed by a dance performance by a local group.<br />

Note for prospective travellers<br />

This tour with 44 participants was organized and<br />

conducted by Caravan Tours of Chicago. (www.<br />

caravan.com). We stayed in three hotels: <strong>The</strong> Marriott<br />

Courtyard in Panamá City (011-507-<strong>30</strong>1-0101), the<br />

Radisson Summit Resort near Gamboa (011-507-232-<br />

3700) and the Royalton Resort in Playa Blanca (011-507-<br />

908-3800). All hotels were very clean, comfortable and<br />

quiet. Or call <strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Society at 1 877 926 2500<br />

and we will take care of your whole booking.


Volunteer Trips for<br />

Single <strong>Travel</strong>lers<br />

Calling all singles! Or singles you know! Or singles in your family! Could a volunteer vacation be the perfect<br />

place to find a partner? Read on … these ideas sure sound better than a bar!<br />

Some of us choose to travel solo; some of us do it out of necessity. But what if you could almost<br />

guarantee that you will find likeminded and compassionate people on your next vacation?<br />

Volunteer vacations attract a particular type of person, and with volunteer companies reporting<br />

that over 60% of their clientele are solo travellers, the figures are stacked in a single person’s favour.<br />

GoVoluntouring.com has been called the “E-Harmony” of the volunteer vacation world, with an<br />

advanced filter system that helps users find their perfect volunteer vacation match. Here are a few<br />

volunteer vacations to consider if you are looking to find a soul mate, make a connection over a<br />

common cause, or simply find the best volunteer vacation match for you or someone you care about:<br />

Sail Away With Me<br />

<strong>The</strong>re must be something in the water at Mercy Ships as over 150 of their volunteers have hooked up,<br />

with a few weddings being performed at sea too. Mercy Ships was founded in 1978 and is the world’s<br />

leading non-governmental, ship-based charity. Working with Mercy Ships, volunteers will be part of<br />

a mission to bring hope and healing to the world’s forgotten poor by delivering medical care and<br />

developmental programmes with integrity and compassion. For more information visit http://goo.gl/kEqFm<br />

Mating Rituals<br />

At the Ya’an Bifengxia Reserve panda base in China, volunteers with<br />

Earthwatch will monitor mother pandas and newborn cubs and even<br />

assist in the birthing process. Volunteers will prepare and deliver<br />

bamboo to the captive pandas, and help them maintain clean living<br />

quarters. Collectively, the volunteer’s responsibilities work towards the<br />

long-term goal of ‘reinforcing’ small and isolated populations of wild<br />

panda in the region. For more information: http://goo.gl/UKBoM<br />

Creative Companions<br />

Stay at an ancient Roman farm in Italy and help restore Byzantine frescos dating back to the 14th and 16th Photo: Earchwatch<br />

centuries. No<br />

pre-requisites needed, just a love of art (and maybe pasta!). <strong>The</strong> restoration workshops include a practical ‘hands on’<br />

experience in the process of conservation and restoration of frescoes, canvas, wood, stone, decorative paintings and<br />

plaster in the rich cultural setting of the Puglia region. By learning and actively working, participants also contribute<br />

to the conservation of the art and historical heritage of the region. For more information: http://goo.gl/JC8NU<br />

About GoVoluntouring: www.govoluntouring.com<br />

Flight Centre’s responsible travel division, GoVoluntouring, is a leading online community for volunteers, overseas<br />

teachers, and learners abroad. Its unique search filters allow users to perform detailed and customizable searches<br />

from a huge database of projects and programmes in over 90 countries around the world.<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

19


<strong>The</strong> Canadian Transportation Agency<br />

Releases a New Tariff Repository to<br />

Help Air <strong>Travel</strong>lers Make Informed Choices<br />

On 11 September, the Canadian Transportation Agency<br />

released a tariff repository to help travellers familiarize<br />

themselves with air carriers’ terms and conditions of<br />

carriage. <strong>The</strong> repository provides a “one-window” direct<br />

access to major airlines’ websites where airline tariffs<br />

can be found, in turn, enabling passengers to read<br />

about their rights and responsibilities when travelling.<br />

Likewise, air carriers can use the repository to compare<br />

their tariff provisions with those of other carriers. <strong>The</strong><br />

Tariff Repository can be accessed on the Agency’s<br />

website at http://www.otc-cta.gc.ca/eng/air-carriertariffs-posted-websites.<br />

A tariff is the contract between an air carrier and<br />

its passengers. It covers the passengers’ rights and<br />

obligations, as well as the air carrier’s rights and its<br />

responsibilities towards the passenger. Carriers must<br />

respect their tariff at all times. Carriers are also required<br />

by law to make their tariff available upon request, at<br />

their business offices, and on their web sites used for<br />

selling air transportation.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Agency enforces the application of tariffs<br />

and may hear complaints from passengers that a tariff<br />

provision is not being applied, or is unreasonable or<br />

unjust. Canadian tariff requirements are detailed in<br />

the Canada Transportation Act and the Air Transportation<br />

Regulations. “Tariffs are key provisions with respect to<br />

air passenger rights in Canada,” said Geoff Hare, Chair<br />

and CEO of the Canadian Transportation Agency.<br />

“Consumers have the right to access a carrier’s tariff,<br />

know what a carrier’s terms and conditions of carriage<br />

are and what a carrier’s obligations to them are when<br />

they travel by air.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> Agency offers a variety of tools and publications<br />

to ensure that passengers get easily accessible travel<br />

information. It created a Sample Tariff (www.otc-cta.<br />

gc.ca/sample-tariff) aimed at helping airlines use clear,<br />

understandable language in their contracts of carriage<br />

with passengers. Air travellers can also consult Fly Smart<br />

(www.otc-cta.gc.ca/eng/fly-smart) and Take Charge<br />

of Your <strong>Travel</strong> (www.otc-cta.gc.ca/eng/take-charge)<br />

20 www.thetravelsociety.com<br />

for more travel information or view recent Agency<br />

decisions that clarify passenger rights and remedies<br />

by consulting the Agency news release (www.otccta.gc.ca/eng/agency-decisions-increase-rightsand-remedies-passengers-travelling-air-canadawestjet-and-air-trans).<br />

<strong>The</strong> Canadian Transportation Agency helps protect<br />

consumers by:<br />

• resolving disputes between members of the public<br />

and air carriers through facilitation, mediation or<br />

formal adjudication;<br />

• working with air carriers and members of the public<br />

to ensure that they are aware of their rights and<br />

obligations;<br />

• ensuring air carrier tariffs are compliant with<br />

Canadian legislation and regulations; and<br />

• working with the industry to remove obstacles<br />

to transportation to the mobility of persons with<br />

disabilities by resolving individual complaints and<br />

by developing codes of practice, standards and<br />

regulations for accessible transportation.<br />

For further information about the Agency’s services for<br />

air travellers, please visit: www.otc-cta.gc.ca/eng/airtravellers.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Canadian Transportation Agency is an<br />

independent administrative body of the Government of<br />

Canada. It performs two key functions within the federal<br />

transportation system:<br />

• As a quasi-judicial tribunal, the Agency, informally<br />

and through formal adjudication, resolves a range<br />

of commercial and consumer transportation-related<br />

disputes, including accessibility issues for persons<br />

with disabilities. It operates like a court when<br />

adjudicating disputes.<br />

• As an economic regulator, the Agency makes<br />

determinations and issues authorities, licenses and<br />

permits to transportation carriers under federal<br />

jurisdiction.<br />

General Public Enquiries: info@otc-cta.gc.ca or 1-888-<br />

222-2592 or TTY 1-800-669-5575


To offset the various prevailing misconceptions<br />

associated with climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro, BikeHike<br />

Adventures debunks five central myths surrounding the<br />

world famous African trek.<br />

“<strong>The</strong>re exists a vast amount of counterfactual beliefs<br />

regarding Kilimanjaro treks,” says Trish Sare, owner of<br />

BikeHike Adventures. “For serious climbs such as Kili,<br />

it’s important that curious travellers receive accurate<br />

information to make an informed decision on whether to<br />

attempt the climb and how to go about it.” To provide<br />

safety, awareness, and encouragement, BikeHike<br />

Adventures releases this list of five debunked myths<br />

surrounding the Kilimanjaro climb:<br />

Myth 1: You’ll Need Oxygen<br />

In most cases, you will not need any bottled oxygen to<br />

climb Mt. Kilimanjaro. <strong>The</strong>re is approximately 40% less<br />

oxygen per breath at an altitude of 12,000 ft (3,600 m)<br />

compared to sea level. An emphasis should be placed<br />

on the importance of properly acclimatizing, rather than<br />

merely offsetting thin air with bottled oxygen. Oxygen is<br />

carried on Kilimanjaro treks for emergency use only and<br />

is not used routinely.<br />

Myth 2: You Will Be Using Ropes, Harnesses<br />

and Ice Picks<br />

To summit the highest mountain in Africa, many people<br />

think they will need ice-climbing equipment such as<br />

ropes, harnesses and ice picks. With the exception of<br />

the western breach route, Kilimanjaro is not that kind of<br />

climb. In fact, it is more like a trek, with many stretches<br />

of low graded hills.<br />

Myth 3: <strong>The</strong> Fittest Person Has the Easiest<br />

Climb<br />

High altitude climbing is an oddity in that speed and<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

Have you ever thought you’d like to conquer Mount Kilimanjaro,<br />

Africa’s highest mountain, only to dismiss the idea as fanciful<br />

due to your age, fitness level etc? Well … Vancouver-based<br />

BikeHike Adventures would like you to re-consider. Read on …<br />

BikeHike Adventures<br />

Debunks Five<br />

Kilimanjaro Myths<br />

fitness take a back seat to stamina and endurance. In<br />

most cases, it is the altitude that you are fighting, not<br />

your apparent lack of fitness. As a result, climbers in<br />

peak physical condition are often overconfident and fail<br />

to take the proper precautions while adjusting to the<br />

altitude. Successful climbers come in a wide variety of<br />

fitness levels, but are always wise enough to move slowly<br />

and let the mountain come to them.<br />

Myth 4: Older Climbers Have a Poor Success<br />

Rate<br />

Mature climbers are often deterred from summiting<br />

Kilimanjaro for fear of being too old. Contrary to popular<br />

belief, older people have a good success rate. Why?<br />

Firstly, they are wise enough to forgo the competitive<br />

pursuits of youth. Secondly, they often aren’t fit enough<br />

to commit the blunder of walking too fast.<br />

Myth 5: With Determination, You Will Reach the<br />

Summit<br />

Although the success rate is very high, it is difficult to<br />

tell which climbers will prevail. Successful climbers are<br />

the ones that take the proper precautions in preventing<br />

altitude sickness. This is just as much a mental game as<br />

it is physical. If it happens that you experience altitude<br />

sickness, it is best not to press on. Continuing your climb<br />

in poor health is not worth the potential complications.<br />

BikeHike Adventures offers Mt. Kilimanjaro treks on<br />

Tanzania - <strong>The</strong> Roof of Africa Kilimanjaro & the<br />

Serengeti. It is a 15-day multi-sport vacation featuring<br />

trekking, biking, hot air ballooning and a wildlife safari.<br />

Trip costs start at $4,999 USD (land only). BikeHike<br />

Adventures Inc., 200-1807 Maritime Mews, Vancouver,<br />

BC, V6H 3W7, Tel: 1 888 805 0061<br />

21


USA<br />

You may have noticed that the USA have recently started<br />

advertising on television and putting more money into<br />

the Canadian Market. As we are the number one source<br />

of visitors to the USA, it’s great that they have been<br />

paying attention to their tourism statistics. At a recent<br />

event in Toronto, media were given a taste of some of<br />

what the States has to offer experienced travellers these<br />

days:<br />

Buffalo<br />

• Apparently it’s not all cross-border shopping and<br />

chicken wings (although they do feature heavily). As<br />

it turns out, Buffalo have recently put a great deal<br />

of money into developing their historic Canalside<br />

district. This friendly, walkable area will host more<br />

than 400 events in the next year, and will soon be<br />

home to a new Marriott hotel.<br />

• Another example of Buffalo’s revitalization is<br />

the recently opened Larkin Square in the historic<br />

Hydraulics District. <strong>The</strong>re you’ll find a gas station<br />

turned into a café, an Airstream trailer selling<br />

gourmet sandwiches, weekly live music <strong>–</strong> and loads<br />

of fun and funky places to sit.<br />

• Not to be missed is the rebirth of two of Buffalo’s<br />

most historic buildings. Fondly named the “Two<br />

Grande Dames” by locals, the Lafayette Hotel and<br />

the Statler hotel are great examples of mixed-use<br />

boutique hotels. Apart from lovely rooms, they’re<br />

also home to art galleries and restaurants. Buffalo<br />

will also see the long-awaited completion of Darwin<br />

Martin House Museum <strong>–</strong> Frank Lloyd Wright’s<br />

stunning Prairie-style complex remains open for<br />

tours during construction. For more information,<br />

head to www.visitbuffaloniagara.com<br />

North Carolina<br />

• This state has recently been making a name for itself<br />

as a culinary destination and has a couple of great<br />

events coming up in November.<br />

• TerraVita Food & Wine Event - Chapel Hill, Nov.<br />

2-3, <strong>2012</strong><br />

• <strong>The</strong> Chapel Hill area boasts a wide selection of<br />

traditional and innovative offerings. One great<br />

22 www.thetravelsociety.com<br />

travel digest<br />

example of this is TerraVita. This festival accentuates<br />

the value of green practices and sustainability with<br />

tastings of biodynamic and organically grown wines<br />

and microbrews. You won’t want to miss dishes from<br />

North Carolina chefs dedicated to locally grown,<br />

organic products. <strong>The</strong> event includes an array of<br />

classes. www.terravitaevent.com<br />

• Highlands Culinary Weekend - Highlands, Nov.<br />

8-11, <strong>2012</strong><br />

• Raise a toast and a fork in this impressive resort<br />

village, where creative chefs reach new heights.<br />

<strong>The</strong> weekend festivities include a Sip & Stroll,<br />

tastings and dinners, cooking demonstrations and<br />

the King of the Mountain chef challenge. www.<br />

highlandsculinaryweekend.com<br />

• For more general information about North Carolina,<br />

check out www.visitnc.com<br />

Philadelphia<br />

• When you’re thinking of heading down to the<br />

states, don’t overlook Philadelphia. Here you’ll find<br />

loads of amazing dining, spectacular museums and<br />

some beautifully landscaped parks and areas of the<br />

downtown.<br />

• If you’re there before the end of November, be<br />

sure to check out the Philadelphia Museum of Art<br />

(PMA)’s Full Spectrum exhibit: Prints from the<br />

Brandywine Workshop displays the works of national<br />

and international artists. More than 50 works delve<br />

into themes of cultural identity, politics and social<br />

issues <strong>–</strong> to November 25 see philamuseum.org for<br />

more.<br />

• Another artistic pursuit while you’re in Philly can be<br />

found at the Barnes Foundation: the latest addition<br />

to the Ben Franklin Parkway, this extraordinary<br />

building allows the world’s largest collections of<br />

Impressionist, Post-Impressionist and early Modern<br />

paintings and African sculpture to be viewed as<br />

intended. To accomplish this, architects designed<br />

a building that duplicates Barnes’ original gallery<br />

layout, while adding classrooms and an interior<br />

garden space. <strong>The</strong> massive building also includes<br />

a changing exhibition gallery, conservation lab,<br />

auditorium, library, cafe and gift shop. Reservations<br />

are highly recommended.


• Go to barnesfoundation.org for details.<br />

• In the Works: Philly is getting even more exciting:<br />

plans are underway to transform an abandoned<br />

centuries-old elevated rail line into a so-called “Park<br />

in the Sky,” in the spirit of New York City’s High<br />

Line or Paris’ Promenade Planteé. Several grassroots<br />

organizations are working together to raise the money<br />

to rehabilitate the seven-acre Reading Viaduct in the<br />

hopes of converting the unused land into a green<br />

walkway. Read more at readingviaduct.org For<br />

more information about travel to Philadelphia,<br />

visitphilly.com<br />

CANADA<br />

• If you’re considering coming to, or travelling in,<br />

Ontario this <strong>October</strong> to enjoy the spectacular<br />

fall colours, check out the special packages on<br />

offer at a variety of resorts. <strong>The</strong>y’re listed at<br />

www.resortsofontario.com<br />

• For the skiers amongst you who would like to<br />

stay in the east (or come to the east) it’s worth<br />

remembering that you can easily combine a<br />

vacation in a great city with your days on the<br />

slopes. <strong>The</strong>re is a shuttle that can take you<br />

from the hotels in downtown Québec City and<br />

Sainte-Foy to the Mont-Sainte-Anne and Le<br />

Massif ski resorts. <strong>The</strong> shuttle runs on 15 &<br />

16 December and then continuously from 21<br />

December to 31 March 2013, for a total of 103<br />

days of service. www.toursvieuxquebec.com/<br />

en/<br />

• <strong>The</strong> friendly tourism folks from Alberta<br />

Tourism were in Toronto last month showing<br />

their latest ads (such inspiring photography<br />

of a beautiful province) and distributing their<br />

new brochures. <strong>The</strong>y hosted the media at a<br />

reception in Toronto’s spacious Roots store as<br />

Alberta locations were also used in Roots latest<br />

clothing brochure. We were reminded of a<br />

great driving getaway through the Canadian<br />

Badlands, taking in the Dinosaur Trail, the Royal<br />

Tyrrell Museum, the scenic Drumheller Valley,<br />

a trip on the Bleriot Ferry and the 11 single-land<br />

bridges leading to the hamlet of Wayne and its<br />

historic Last Chance Saloon. For these ideas and<br />

so many more visit www.travelalberta.com<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

• Enterprise-Rent-A-Car, North America’s<br />

largest rental car brand, is offering a special<br />

weekend discount rate starting from $9.99 per<br />

day. Enterprise renters can enjoy weekend rates<br />

of $9.99 per day ($13.99 in Quebec) on economy<br />

and compact cars when renting Friday through<br />

Monday at most Enterprise neighbourhood<br />

locations in Canada (that means that airport<br />

locations are not included). <strong>The</strong> rate includes<br />

100 free kilometres a day. Similar savings are<br />

available on larger vehicles, and unlimited<br />

mileage packages also are available at most<br />

locations. <strong>The</strong> programme runs from now to 15<br />

May 2013.<br />

• Let us now look far ahead. It’s still too early to tell<br />

whether a spring Polar Bear Photo Safari is in<br />

order for Churchill Wild’s Nanuk Polar Bear<br />

Lodge, but the recent discovery of a large<br />

number of new polar bear dens along the<br />

Hudson Bay coast by Manitoba Conservation<br />

officials make it a distinct possibility in the<br />

future. “At this point we do not have enough<br />

information on the number of dens, their<br />

locations and if there is any potential for a spring<br />

Mothers & Cubs Polar Bear Adventure,”<br />

said Rick Kemp, Director of Marketing and<br />

Communications at Churchill Wild. “But we do<br />

know that Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge is located in<br />

the heart of the newly discovered denning sites,<br />

and this bodes well for many exceptional polar<br />

bear encounters in the years ahead.” Nanuk<br />

Polar Bear Lodge is located 250 km southeast<br />

of Churchill, Manitoba, on the Hudson Bay<br />

coast near York Factory, and is currently home<br />

to Churchill Wild’s Mothers & Cubs summer<br />

polar bear adventure. According to Manitoba<br />

Conservation officials, the newly discovered<br />

polar bear dens are located in an area southeast<br />

of Wapusk National Park and east of the Nelson<br />

River, a region along the southern end of the<br />

polar bears’ range which is not as well-known<br />

as Churchill and other areas to the north.<br />

“Churchill Wild is dedicated to providing lifechanging<br />

polar bear experiences at our remote<br />

wilderness lodges,” said Kemp. “Nanuk Polar<br />

Bear Lodge is without a doubt poised to become<br />

a “must see” destination for discerning adventure<br />

travel enthusiasts.” Churchill Wild offers the<br />

only fly-in eco-lodge based on-the-ground polar<br />

bear tours in the world. <strong>The</strong>ir season runs from<br />

23


EUROPE<br />

mid-July to mid-November with limited space<br />

available for adventure packages. <strong>The</strong>y operate<br />

Seal River Heritage Lodge and Dymond Lake<br />

Eco-lodge on the west coast of Hudson Bay<br />

(north of Churchill), and Nanuk Polar Bear<br />

Lodge, which is located approximately 40<br />

kilometers east of York Factory on the southern<br />

tip of Wapusk National Park. Additional<br />

information and booking details may be found<br />

at www.ChurchillWild.com or by calling 204<br />

3775090. Also visit their very active Churchill<br />

Wild Facebook Page.<br />

• We were reminded of the richness of this continent<br />

when we received in our office the Europe on Track<br />

RailEurope brochure. Think of any country <strong>–</strong> from<br />

Ireland, Portugal and Spain in the west; Norway,<br />

Sweden and Finland in the north; Italy and Greece<br />

and even over to Turkey in the south and east <strong>–</strong> and<br />

there’s a train service. In between, there are the old<br />

favourites (France, Switzerland and so on) and also<br />

Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro, Romania, Bulgaria<br />

and Macedonia. Think of a city amongst any of<br />

those … and chances are you can arrive by train. To<br />

plan your European travels, in any season, visit www.<br />

raileurope.ca or call 1 800 361 RAIL for a brochure.<br />

FRANCE<br />

• It’s no wonder that France is always on or near the<br />

top of the world’s most popular destinations. <strong>The</strong><br />

videos shown at a recent media reception in Toronto<br />

had even seasoned travellers “ooh-ing” and “aahing”<br />

as a group of delegates from several regions in<br />

24 www.thetravelsociety.com<br />

France gathered to remind us of their country’s great<br />

pleasures. <strong>The</strong>y were representing Marseille (due<br />

to be a Cultural Capital of Europe in 2013 which<br />

will mean a wonderful choice of entertainment),<br />

Provence and the Cote d’Azur (exquisite!), Rhone<br />

Alps (exquisite!) and Midi-Pyrenees (exquisite!). So<br />

many ancient towns, sporting adventures, galleries<br />

and museums, historical sites, cliff-hanging villages,<br />

abbeys and churches, gardens and shops, rural and<br />

village accommodation and so on, and everywhere,<br />

of course, wonderful cuisine and wine. We were also<br />

reminded that all major cities and towns in France<br />

are linked by rail (see above). Paris to Lyon, for<br />

example, takes 2 hrs. 10 mins. at a cost starting at<br />

$68. Paris to Marseilles on the south coast takes 3<br />

hrs. 20 mins. from $87. It’s hard to choose just one<br />

region, but in the meantime you can enjoy browsing<br />

at www.rendezvousenfrance.com<br />

HONG KONG<br />

• “Foodie alert!” If you love good Chinese food,<br />

Hong Kong’s Wine & Dine Festival, due to take<br />

place from 1 <strong>–</strong> 4 November is sure to appeal In<br />

fact, this festival will extend throughout the Hong<br />

Kong Wine & Dine month of November with street<br />

carnivals, the Festival of Restaurants and wine-anddine<br />

promotions. <strong>The</strong> city’s top restaurants will<br />

share their finest offerings, while for those still in a<br />

party mood, the Lan Kwai Fong Carnival (17 <strong>–</strong> 18<br />

November) will bring together not only food and<br />

beer stalls but also arts and crafts, dancers and<br />

musicians and other live performers from around<br />

the world. And for visitors who miss those dates, a<br />

World of Food and Music festival will take place 24-<br />

25 November in popular, beach-side Stanley. For<br />

more information visit www.DiscoverHongKong.<br />

com/ca. Bon appétit!<br />

PORTUGAL<br />

• <strong>The</strong> Azores would make a lovely fall getaway, and<br />

there are special fares out of Toronto on offer from<br />

SATA (airline), Canada. Discover more at www.<br />

sata.pt.


Porter Airlines and South African Airways (SAA)<br />

have launched a new interline agreement that will<br />

open up connection opportunities for passengers<br />

travelling between Canada and West and Southern<br />

Africa through Porter’s Billy Bishop Toronto City<br />

Airport hub and SAA’s Johannesburg, South Africa<br />

hub, via Washington, DC (Dulles). <strong>The</strong> agreement<br />

took effect 17 September with tickets between the<br />

two airlines now available for purchase through<br />

South African Airways. SAA offers non-stop service<br />

from Washington, DC (Dulles) to Dakar, Senegal,<br />

with a continuation to Johannesburg, South Africa.<br />

From Johannesburg, travellers can choose from an<br />

array of popular business and leisure destinations<br />

served by SAA. www.flyporter.com and www.<br />

flysaa.com<br />

WestJet to give away one million WestJet dollars! WestJet<br />

has announced details of the million WestJet dollars<br />

giveaway, the airline’s first-ever reward programme<br />

contest for Canadians. <strong>The</strong> contest, which continues to<br />

7 <strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong>, gives WestJet guests the opportunity to<br />

join the airline’s loyalty programme, WestJet Rewards<br />

(www.westjet.com/guest/en/rewards/index.shtml),<br />

and win their share of one million WestJet dollars.<br />

By visiting westjetgiveaway.com, you can enter to<br />

win one of five daily prizes of $5,000 WestJet dollars.<br />

Additional rewards are available via on-line games and<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

airline news<br />

on-board ‘dollars’ randomly placed in seatback pockets.<br />

With WestJet Rewards (www.westjet.com/guest/en/<br />

rewards/index.shtml), travellers earn WestJet dollars<br />

for every WestJet flight flown or vacation package<br />

taken. <strong>The</strong>y dollars can be used on any date, to any of<br />

WestJet’s more than 80 destinations, with no blackout<br />

periods. <strong>The</strong>y can even be used on seat sales. Members<br />

can redeem their WestJet dollars just like cash, using<br />

them as they earn them, starting with as little as $25<br />

WestJet dollars or save them up towards their dream<br />

vacation package. For more information, please visit<br />

westjet.com/rewards (www.westjet.com/guest/en/<br />

rewards/index.shtml).<br />

Air Canada<br />

In 2013, Air Canada’s Top Tier program will be given a<br />

complete overhaul. With a new design and a new name,<br />

the Air Canada Altitude program will (apparently) be<br />

even more rewarding! <strong>The</strong>re will be two new tiers, for<br />

a total of five: Altitude Prestige 25K, Altitude Elite 35K,<br />

Altitude Elite 50K, Altitude Elite 75K and Altitude Super<br />

Elite 100K. This new program will take effect on March<br />

1, 2013. If you’re wondering how this might affect you,<br />

check www.aircanada.com/Altitude<br />

In other news, the airline recently opened a new lounge<br />

at New York’s LaGuardia Airport. Located in the Central<br />

Terminal building this space will soon be even better<br />

than it is now (which is supposed to be quite grand!)<br />

We want to hear from you! Please share your<br />

trips & photos with other members.<br />

Send your ideas to helen@thetravelsociety.com<br />

25


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- Safaris<br />

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26 www.thetravelsociety.com<br />

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GROUP TOUR!<br />

ome with <strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Society to a land of wonder … on a South<br />

African trip unlike any other. Designed especially for our members,<br />

this trip takes in all the highlights: Kruger National Park for<br />

game watching, the famous Garden Route, the beautiful wine region<br />

of Stellenbosch and the sights of incomparable Cape Town, including<br />

Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive and Robben Island. But<br />

on our trip you will do far more. You will tour the Great scarpment of<br />

Eastern Transvaal <strong>–</strong>a place so beautiful writers run out of adjectives<br />

<strong>–</strong> where you will visit God’s Window, the Blyde River Canyon and<br />

historical towns like Pilgrims Rest. You’ll see Johannesburg and be<br />

escorted to Soweto for lunch in a Township house and jazz in a<br />

famous nightspot. You’ll enter the Kingdom of Swaziland to meet<br />

the people and enjoy more game watching. Zululand is also on the<br />

itinerary, with its historical sites and unique entertainment traditions.<br />

You’ll be driven through the Valley of a Thousand Hills to East London<br />

and you’ll visit the Addo Elephant National Park and traverse<br />

the Little Karoo Desert <strong>–</strong> flanked by great mountain ranges <strong>–</strong> to see<br />

the Cango Caves. You’ll travel in a luxury air-conditioned coach,<br />

you’ll stay in lovely properties ranging from good hotels to charming<br />

chalets, you’ll enjoy a wide variety of entertainment and you’ll enjoy<br />

South Africa’s delicious cuisine and wines and you’ll be escorted<br />

all the way by SA Tourism-accredited guides. Here at <strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong><br />

Society we know South Africa well … and we can’t imagine a more<br />

comprehensive,in-depth and fascinating tour of South Africa.<br />

- Special <strong>Travel</strong> Society experiences<br />

- Most meals; breakfast, light lunch and dinner<br />

- All transfers with full luggage service<br />

- All sightseeing fees (with no hidden extras)<br />

- ALL TAXES<br />

Please call <strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Society 1 877 926 2500 x25 or 416 926 2500 x25 for the full details.<br />

147 Liberty Street Toronto Ontario Canada M6K 3G3 | Fax: 416 926 0222 | Email: brit@thetravelsociety.com<br />

All our tours are specially priced for <strong>Travel</strong> Society members and are only available at these prices through our office.<br />

www.thetravelsociety.com #1280649


South Africa<br />

<strong>The</strong> Shongololo Good Hope Tour<br />

Call : 1 877 926 2500<br />

for the complete itinerary<br />

Prices Include...<br />

- Return international airfare on British Airways<br />

- Canadian airfare (when necessary)<br />

- Pre-Day on the Shongololo included<br />

- On-board train accommodation throughout<br />

- Meals: breakfast and dinner included, lunch available<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

~ tours for members and their friends.<br />

ome with <strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Society on a great adventure: the Shongololo<br />

Good Hope Adventure train trip … a wonderful tour of the high-<br />

C lights of South Africa in luxurious comfort. Johnnesburg, Pretoria,<br />

Kruger National Park, Durban, Swaziland, Bloemfontein, Port Elizabeth,<br />

Mossel Bay and Cape Town are all on the itinerary yet you only<br />

have to unpack once! And you’ll have a wide choice of exciting activities<br />

to enjoy. And most programmes are included when you travel with <strong>The</strong><br />

<strong>Travel</strong> Society. So whether this is your first or fifth visit to South Africa,<br />

you can be sure of experiencing something new. And every night you will<br />

return to the comfort of your train.<br />

‘Nature & Wildlife’ experiences include safari trips, hikes, cave visits,<br />

whale watching and more. <strong>The</strong> ‘Culture & People’ excursions include<br />

tours of the country’s major cities as well as trips into Swaziland, Shakaland<br />

and Zululand. <strong>The</strong> ‘Highlights and Leisure’ component offers relaxing<br />

days on the train or the beach, enjoying the spectacular scenery in<br />

comfort… the perfect choice for those who love to travel but are not as<br />

mobile as they once were. And the ‘Special Activities’ are for the truly adventurous:<br />

caves, shark cage diving, balloon rides and helicopter flights<br />

over Cape Town and the Cape Peninsula. On these extraordinary train<br />

journeys you can choose to do as much or as little as you like. Contact<br />

us for the full itinerary and list of options and create the trip of a lifetime!<br />

NEW:<br />

A SMALL<br />

GROUP TOUR!<br />

Please call 1 877 926 2500<br />

for current prices &<br />

departure dates.<br />

- Luxury a/c Mercedes coaches for day trips<br />

- A choice of free land excursions<br />

- Experienced SA Tourism-accredited tour guides<br />

- Airport transfers with full-luggage services<br />

- ALL TAXES<br />

Please call <strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Society 1 877 926 2500 x25 or 416 926 2500 x25 for the full details.<br />

147 Liberty Street Toronto Ontario Canada M6K 3G3 | Fax: 416 926 0222 | Email: brit@thetravelsociety.com<br />

All our tours are specially priced for <strong>Travel</strong> Society members and are only available at these prices through our office.<br />

www.thetravelsociety.com #1280649<br />

27


Galapagos Islands Cruise & Ecuador<br />

Call : 1 877 926 2500<br />

for the complete itinerary<br />

T<br />

he <strong>Travel</strong> Society is proud to be able to offer its members an<br />

outstanding trip to some of the world’s most spectacular destinations.<br />

Who hasn’t dreamed of cruising to the Galapagos<br />

Islands and seeing wildlife as Darwin witnessed it? Think of the<br />

unique adventure you will enjoy, of the stories you will have to tell<br />

and the photographs you will take! You will spend a week aboard<br />

your first-class 20-passenger ship,taking daily shore excursions to<br />

a variety of the islands with experienced naturalists in groups of no<br />

more than 10 people per guide. You’ll also visit other destinations<br />

in Ecuador, and then you can choose to enjoy the exciting optional<br />

extensions: to Kapawi - a ecological lodge in the Amazon and/or a<br />

visit Machu Picchu in Peru. We’ll take care of all the travel details.<br />

All you have to do is enjoy!<br />

Prices Include...<br />

- Round-trip international air<br />

- All domestic air transportation<br />

- All accommodation<br />

- First class Galapagos small ship cruise<br />

- All meals as per the itinerary<br />

28 www.thetravelsociety.com<br />

~ tours for members and their friends.<br />

Small<br />

Ship<br />

Kapawi Ecolodge<br />

Please call 1 877 926 2500<br />

for current prices &<br />

departure dates.<br />

- Admissions to all sites<br />

- Expert Galapagos guides<br />

- Transfers & baggage handling<br />

- Islands Park Entrance Fee (US $100)<br />

- ALL TAXES<br />

Please call <strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Society 1 877 926 2500 x25 or 416 926 2500 x25 for the full details.<br />

147 Liberty Street Toronto Ontario Canada M6K 3G3 | Fax: 416 926 0222 | Email: brit@thetravelsociety.com<br />

All our tours are specially priced for <strong>Travel</strong> Society members and are only available at these prices through our office.<br />

www.thetravelsociety.com #1280649


T<br />

Combine Panama and Costa Rica<br />

for one great tour!<br />

Call : 1 877 926 2500<br />

for the complete itinerary<br />

hese two destinations have wide appeal: incredible flora and fauna,<br />

National Parks galore, beautiful beaches, lots of adventures, cities old<br />

and new, sound infrastructures and of course in the case of Panama,<br />

the famous Canal. <strong>The</strong>se attractions lure many to visit and … who knows<br />

… you may decide to retire there, as quite a number of Canadians have<br />

done before you.<br />

But don’t let’s jump ahead. Let us tell you about our two-country tour.<br />

First we’ll take you to Panama City where there will be a tour of its historic<br />

sites followed by a tour of the Canal area including the Miraflores Locks<br />

and the Canal Authority’s Presentation Centre. Later you’ll visit the Gatun<br />

Lake and rainforest area with a naturalist guide. This lovely day includes a<br />

boat ride across the lake, which is in fact in the Canal … your chance to see<br />

the gigantic cargo ships transiting the water. <strong>The</strong> surrounding area is full<br />

of wildlife: monkeys, iguanas, sloths, crocodiles, osprey, kites, toucans and<br />

more.<br />

More adventures will follow on ensuing days: a dugout canoe trip up<br />

the Chagres River to an Embera indigenous village in the Chagres National<br />

Park where more wildlife awaits, along with a warm welcome from the<br />

villagers who will serve you lunch.<br />

Your Panama days will be completed with a flight to San Blas for a stay<br />

in an island lodge where you can be as active or relaxed as you wish.<br />

Next comes Costa Rica. You’ll be met in San Jose and transferred to<br />

a boutique hotel. <strong>The</strong> following days will be full of nature and adventure. In<br />

the company of a naturalist guide, you’ll be escorted through waterways to<br />

see endangered turtles, birds and literally hundreds of other species. You’ll<br />

see the famous Arenal Volcano in Arenal National Park where, if you wish,<br />

you may take an exciting rafting trip on the Toro River. More adventure<br />

awaits on a zip line adventure (again optional!) in the cloud forest of<br />

Monteverde before you transfer to the beautiful beaches of Manuel Antonio<br />

National Park.<br />

This small space cannot possibly describe all the animals and birds you<br />

will see, all the wonderful places you will stay, nor all the adventures and<br />

sights you will enjoy. Just give us a call and we’ll send you the full itinerary.<br />

Package includes:<br />

- All international & domestic air travel<br />

- Meals according to itinerary<br />

- Tours according to itinerary<br />

- All taxes<br />

- Private and/or shared transfers<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

~ tours for members and their friends.<br />

NEW:<br />

A SMALL<br />

GROUP TOUR!<br />

Please call 1 877 926 2500<br />

for current prices &<br />

departure dates.<br />

- Shared Transfers - San Jose to Tortuguero, Tortuguero to<br />

Guapiles, La Fortuna to Monteverde<br />

- Full Day City Tour<br />

- Embera Tour<br />

- El Valle<br />

- Gatun Lake & Boat Tour<br />

Please call <strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Society 1 877 926 2500 x25 or 416 926 2500 x25 for the full details.<br />

147 Liberty Street Toronto Ontario Canada M6K 3G3 | Fax: 416 926 0222 | Email: brit@thetravelsociety.com<br />

All our tours are specially priced for <strong>Travel</strong> Society members and are only available at these prices through our office.<br />

www.thetravelsociety.com #1280649<br />

29


Y<br />

<strong>The</strong> Wines of Chile & Argentina<br />

COME SIP WINE WITH US IN<br />

CHILE AND ARGENTINA!<br />

ou are invited to join a small group of TTS members on a de luxe<br />

tour of Chile and Argentina. You’ll delight in many sightseeing highlights<br />

in both countries, you’ll relax and sip wine in some magnificent<br />

wineries and you’ll stay in some wonderful properties.<br />

Santiago will be your first stop. You’ll be taken onto Saint Christopher<br />

Hill for a spectacular panoramic view of the city and its surrounding<br />

mountains before embarking on a tour of historical downtown with its<br />

ancient buildings and fascinating museums.<br />

You’ll spend a full day touring to Pomaire and Isla Negra before heading<br />

west the following day to the Casablanca Valley for winery visits in<br />

this great wine-producing region. Valparaiso is next on the itinerary<br />

and there you’ll stay in the renowned and unique Hotel Casa Higueras<br />

… a 1920s hillside mansion that has been converted into a charming<br />

boutique hotel.<br />

You’ll enjoy free time in Valparaiso before returning to Santia go<br />

for your flight to Mendoza in Argentina. <strong>The</strong>re Club Tapiz awaits you<br />

… a Renaissance-style villa surrounded by 22 acres of vineyards and<br />

views of the Andes. Club Tapiz is so special that it has been declared<br />

of important Historical and Architectural Heritage. It also has a winery,<br />

home not only to casks of sparkling and other wines, but also vats of<br />

virgin olive oil and some outstanding art.<br />

Your tour will continue visiting special places in the Andes mountain<br />

range with visits to Aconcagua and Mercedario with all its National<br />

Parks, spectacular scenery, many adventures, hot springs and many<br />

more wine tastings.<br />

Your flight from Mendoza will take you to Buenos Aires for the final<br />

days of your journey. In Buenos Aires your home for four nights will<br />

be the very luxurious Hotel Loi Suites in the elegant Recoleta area …<br />

a wonderful place to relax after the exciting days we have planned for<br />

you here. <strong>The</strong>re will be a city tour covering all the historic highlights<br />

as well as museums, parks and more and then, of course, we haven’t<br />

forgotten TANGO! (with dinner).<br />

On your twelfth day you will be driven out of Buenos Aires on a fullday<br />

‘gaucho’ tour to Santa Susana Estancie where you will sample<br />

traditional Argentine country life. On this 1200 hectare estate you will<br />

see the agricultural and cattle breeding initiatives, enjoy cocktails and<br />

a typical Argentine barbecue accompanied, of course, by Argentine<br />

wine, all followed by a folkloric show and tango music.<br />

Your final day is free in Buenos Aires … a day when you may choose<br />

to revisit some places of interest seen on your tour, enjoy a walk in the<br />

Recoleta district with its magnificent houses and parks or do some lastminute<br />

shopping.<br />

Two wonderful countries, some great cities, spectacular mountains,<br />

a variety of landscapes, delightful wineries and some truly memorable<br />

hotels all add up to one fabulous tour.<br />

<strong>30</strong> www.thetravelsociety.com<br />

~ tours for members and their friends.<br />

Call : 1 877 926 2500<br />

for the complete itinerary<br />

Please call 1 877 926 2500<br />

for current prices &<br />

departure dates.<br />

Your tour costs include:<br />

NEW:<br />

A SMALL<br />

GROUP TOUR!<br />

- 14 Days/13 Night tour to Chile and Argentina<br />

- All International and Domestic flights including ALL taxes<br />

- (Flights are subject to confirmation)<br />

- 4- and 5-star hotel & winery accommodation including ALL taxes<br />

- All Transfers and baggage handling.<br />

- All tours as per itinerary with English speaking guide/driver<br />

- ALL entrance fees.<br />

- Daily breakfast and meals as per the itinerary.<br />

Please call <strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Society 1 877 926 2500 x25 or 416 926 2500 x25 for the full details.<br />

147 Liberty Street Toronto Ontario Canada M6K 3G3 | Fax: 416 926 0222 | Email: brit@thetravelsociety.com<br />

All our tours are specially priced for <strong>Travel</strong> Society members and are only available at these prices through our office.<br />

www.thetravelsociety.com #1280649


Call : 1 877 926 2500<br />

for the complete itinerary<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

~ tours for members and their friends.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Best Safari of East Africa<br />

~ Kenya and Tanzania<br />

C<br />

ome with <strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Society to East Africa … the<br />

finest place in the world for safaris!<br />

Over 18 days, our private, small-group tour will take<br />

you to some of legendary safari lodges in Kenya and<br />

Tanzania: Sweet Waters, <strong>The</strong> Ark, Sarova Lion Hill, Mara<br />

Sopa and Ngorongoro Sopa. <strong>The</strong> animals you will see<br />

are no less legendary: lion, elephant, leopard, cheetah,<br />

rhino, wildebeest, giraffe, antelopes and gazelles.<br />

Each location has been chosen for its speciality, creating<br />

a trip of unforgettable memories: the climbing lions<br />

of Lake Manyara National Park, the views of Kilimanjaro<br />

and the elephant herds of Amboseli Serena, the white<br />

rhinos and Rothschild giraffe that are only found in Nakuru,<br />

the ‘Big Five’ of the Maasai Mara, the cheetah that<br />

favour Tarangire Park, the Tree Hotel in Aberdares National<br />

Park, the animal-filled endless plains of the Serengeti<br />

and the wildlife-in-microcosm in the spectacular<br />

Ngorongoro Crater. On this trip, every day will be a highlight!<br />

Our small-group trip includes international air fares,<br />

domestic air fares, accommodation and most meals as<br />

indicated on the itinerary, ‘meet and greet’ services and<br />

transfers, game viewing drives and more. <strong>The</strong>re are a<br />

few optional extras such as a balloon safari, a visit to a<br />

Maasai Village or an excursion to Mfangano Island.<br />

And, while you’re in Africa and have made a long list of<br />

‘animals seen’, why not add on a 4-day trip to Rwanda<br />

to add ‘gorillas’ to your list? Yes, we can arrange all that<br />

for you too. You’ll travel from Nairobi direct to Kigali and<br />

then on to the Gorillas Mountain View Lodge for gorilla<br />

tracking, of course, and so much more: a visit to a Rwandese<br />

homestead, drives along the shores of beautiful<br />

Lake Kivu, boat trips and swimming. You’ll be taken care<br />

of from the minute you arrive and shown the highlights of<br />

these beautiful countries in the heart of Africa.<br />

TOUR ADD-ON<br />

4 DAY GORILLA TREK<br />

in Ruanda<br />

NEW:<br />

A SMALL<br />

GROUP TOUR!<br />

Please call 1 877 926 2500<br />

for current prices &<br />

departure dates.<br />

Your tour costs include:<br />

- Return international airfares on British<br />

Airways<br />

- All first class accommodation<br />

- All meals as indicated in the itinerary<br />

- All meet and greet services and transfers<br />

- Game viewing drives and parks entrance<br />

fees as indicated in the itinerary<br />

(No hidden charges)<br />

- Transportation in chauffeur-driven minivans<br />

with pop-open roof and Safari Land Rovers<br />

- Services of English-speaking driver-guides<br />

- Safety accessories in safari vehicles,<br />

including two-way long-range high<br />

frequency radio communication<br />

- ALL TAXES<br />

Please call <strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Society 1 877 926 2500 x25 or 416 926 2500 x25 for the full details.<br />

147 Liberty Street Toronto Ontario Canada M6K 3G3 | Fax: 416 926 0222 | Email: brit@thetravelsociety.com<br />

All our tours are specially priced for <strong>Travel</strong> Society members and are only available at these prices through our office.<br />

www.thetravelsociety.com #1280649<br />

31


Costa Rica à la carte<br />

osta Rica is a friendly and safe destination, especially popu-<br />

C lar with nature lovers due to its abundant parks and wildlife.<br />

Come with <strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Society on a unique programme that<br />

allows you to design your own itinerary, see what you want to<br />

see, and do it all at your own pace in your own rental car. What<br />

do we do? We provide a local representative who will provide<br />

you with all documents, maps and instructions as well as help or<br />

advice at any time during your tour, 24/7. Our Costa Rica experts<br />

will draw on their knowledge of over two dozen first class hotels,<br />

inns and resorts to fit your itinerary and, of course, we arrange<br />

your car rental. Choose to explore for 7, 10 or 14 nights, discuss<br />

where you’d like to go and we’ll do the rest. Land-only prices<br />

start at $590 dbl., for 7 nights with a standard car to $1,095 for<br />

14 nights with a 4-wheel-drive car. Go with your partner … go<br />

with a friend! It’s a great bargain. We also arrange low-cost charter<br />

or scheduled flights to complete your trip.<br />

32 www.thetravelsociety.com<br />

~ tours for members and their friends.<br />

Call : 1 877 926 2500<br />

for the complete itinerary<br />

Your tour costs include:<br />

Copper Canyon & Mexico City<br />

W<br />

e are offering a new 9-day tour to Mexico City and the<br />

Copper Canyon. <strong>The</strong> Copper Canyon is four times<br />

larger than the Grand Canyon, and you’ll enjoy a journey that is<br />

considered by many to be the world’s most exciting train trip, with<br />

its 8 tunnels, 39 bridges and uncountable spectacular views. You’ll<br />

meet the people, stay in unique accommodations and explore the<br />

present and the past in this astonishing region.<br />

Please call 1 877 926 2500<br />

for current prices &<br />

departure dates.<br />

Please call 1 877 926 2500<br />

for current prices &<br />

departure dates.<br />

- Return international airfares<br />

- Personally designed itinerary<br />

- Your choice of over 24 first class Hotels, Inns and Resorts<br />

- Choice of 2- or 4-wheel drive rental cars<br />

- A local representative providing all documents, maps and instructions<br />

- A local representative available 24/7 for help and advice<br />

- All meals as indicated in the itinerary<br />

- All meet and greet services<br />

- Services of English-speaking guides<br />

- ALL TAXES<br />

Call : 1 877 926 2500<br />

for the complete itinerary<br />

Your tour costs include:<br />

- All air transportation<br />

- Canadian domestic air<br />

- Bilingual guides<br />

- 8 nights’ first-class accommodation<br />

- All transfers, baggage handling & tips<br />

- Meals as per the itinerary<br />

- All train trips and tours as per the itinerary<br />

- ALL TAXES<br />

Please call <strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Society 1 877 926 2500 x25 or 416 926 2500 x25 for the full details.<br />

Single supplement 147 $799 Liberty (Sharing Street can be Toronto arranged.) Ontario Canada M6K 3G3 | Fax: 416 926 0222 | Email: brit@thetravelsociety.com<br />

Prices are subject All our to confirmation. tours are specially priced for <strong>Travel</strong> Society members and are only available at these prices through our office.<br />

www.thetravelsociety.com #1280649


China Yangtze Spectacular<br />

- Including Guilin<br />

Call : 1 877 926 2500<br />

for the complete itinerary<br />

I<br />

t is vast, fascinating and mysterious and it has beckoned<br />

travellers from the west for centuries. Mention it to avid travellers<br />

and they are sure to say, “Yes, I hope to visit China one<br />

day.” And what would they choose to experience? A cruise on<br />

the mighty Yangtze River (now in the process of changing<br />

forever); a look at the work-in-progress on the massive Three<br />

Gorges Dam; a walk on the ancient Great Wall; time in mysterious<br />

Guilin; views of charming villages, lush terraced hillsides and<br />

magnificent mountain peaks; visits to the great cities of Shanghai<br />

and Beijing; a trip to view one of the world’s greatest archaeological<br />

finds … the 6,000 Terra-Cotta warriors at Xi’an; scenes<br />

of palaces, pagodas, pavilions and pandas; tastes of Peking<br />

duck and Chinese banquets and so much more. So how do you<br />

choose? When you decide on <strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Society’s tour there’s<br />

no need to choose because all these highlights are included. Yes,<br />

in these remarkable 18 days you’ll stay in Beijing; you’ll take a<br />

4-day first-class cruise on the Yangtze with many shore excursions;<br />

you’ll fly to see those centuries-old Terra-Cotta warriors in<br />

Xi’an; you’ll visit bustling Chongqing and see its pandas; stay in<br />

Hangzhou and travel into the hills covered with tea plantations;<br />

explore the exquisite gardens of Suzhou, and visit Nanjing and<br />

Wuzhen. And you’ll have time to explore spectacular Shanghai.<br />

Throughout the trip you’ll see magnificent architecture, you’ll be<br />

entertained at cultural events, you’ll join your hosts at a variety<br />

of banquets, you’ll have time to shop, and you’ll marvel at some<br />

of the most wonderful scenery on earth, all in the company of<br />

English-speaking guides. You’ll travel by plane, by luxury bus,<br />

cruise ship and river boat. Many of our members have told us it’s<br />

an experience of a lifetime … and all at an amazing price!<br />

Your tour includes:<br />

- Round-trip transpacific air fares on Japan Airlines or Air Canada<br />

- Canadian & Chinese domestic airfares<br />

- First-class hotel accommodation<br />

- First-class 4 days/3 nights Yangtze River cruise aboard a deluxe<br />

cruise ship<br />

- Daily sightseeing<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

~ tours for members and their friends.<br />

NEW:<br />

A SMALL<br />

GROUP TOUR!<br />

Please call 1 877 926 2500<br />

for current prices &<br />

departure dates.<br />

- All transfers<br />

- Three meals daily and 2 Western-style dinners<br />

- Special banquets in Hangzhou, Xi’an and Beijing<br />

- Evening cultural shows<br />

- English-speaking local guides<br />

- Free time in Beijing & Shanghai<br />

- ALL TAXES<br />

Please call <strong>The</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Society 1 877 926 2500 x25 or 416 926 2500 x25 for the full details.<br />

147 Liberty Street Toronto Ontario Canada M6K 3G3 | Fax: 416 926 0222 | Email: brit@thetravelsociety.com<br />

All our tours are specially priced for <strong>Travel</strong> Society members and are only available at these prices through our office.<br />

www.thetravelsociety.com #1280649<br />

33

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