Press release - Chaumet

chaumet

Press release - Chaumet

TIARA ATTITUDE

As the Chaumet new Princess,

Sophie Marceau is wearing the

historic Bourbon-Parme tiara,

created in 1919 by Joseph Chaumet,

in the new advertising campaign.

Magically, the silhouette gracefully

rises up as this aristocratic elegance

captivates the eyes.

Ornemental headwear is making

a resplendent comeback and is

more and more worn at weddings

or prestigious ceremonies. Giving

an aristocratic elegance with an

outstanding silhouette, the tiara

joyfully allows its wearer to be a

queen for a day or a night.

Hair jewellery is the star piece of the

salons 12 Place Vendôme and is once

again raising attention of the catwalk

spotlights at Paris, London, Milan and

New York. Fashion houses take a new

look at a style perpetuated for two

centuries by Chaumet.

DIADEME-680X680:DIADEME-680X680 19/01/09 19:13 Page 1


TImElEss TIARAs

More than 2,000 tiaras have been

made by Chaumet since 1780.

Throughout history, the expertise of

Chaumet has been associated with

the highest levels of power, starting

with one of the jeweller’s most

famous and powerful customer,

Napoleon Bonaparte.

Proclaimed Emperor, he wanted to

revive the splendour of the Court to

assert his authority in the eyes of

the world.

The tiara, symbol of power in the

Imperial Rome, aroused his interest.

From his appointed jeweller,

Marie-Etienne Nitot, founder of

Chaumet, Napoleon ordered

jewellery to make the imperial family

transcend the crowd.

On the day of his coronation,

December 2nd 1804, the Empress

Josephine was wearing refined

jewellery, including a tiara.

The revival of this historic head

decoration was immediately adopted

by the ladies of the Court, and then

by Empress Marie-Louise.

A new trend was launched!

Made of gold, pearls and precious

stones, tiaras enhanced the brilliance

of the diamonds sparkling under the

light of candlesticks. They drew

admiring looks upwards to the

wearer’s head.

From Napoleonic jewels to 21th century creations, Nitot’s successors

have perpetuated his tradition of

exquisite and stylish jewellery.


Jean-Baptiste Fossin and his son

Jules, ambassadors of romantic

jewellery, experienced huge

success with their naturalistic style

tiaras and headbands. Garlands of

flowers, leaves and fruits in coloured

gemstones, bouquets of feathers

and ears of corn and interlaced bows

decorated the heads of European

aristocracy and rich Americans

intrigued by Parisian taste. Some

even owned several sets that could

be adjusted, and each event was

a pretext for a firework display of

jewels to dazzle the critics of

the time.

During the Belle Epoque, tiaras and

aigrettes, considered as much a

social emblem as a fashion accessory,

represented a large part of the

Chaumet’s activity, managed by Joseph

Chaumet, master of the grand manner.

The creations, which were now lighter,

reflected the century’s discoveries and

evolutions. Paul Poiret made a stir with

an innovative cut for evening dresses

and jewellers designed aigrettes

in harmony with this new willowy

and feminine silhouette. Chaumet’s

inspiration for winged headbands

came also from The Valkyries

by Wagner.

Later, while women were sporting flat

and short hairstyles, headbands with

stylised lines and geometric shapes

became the rage, precursors of the

forthcoming Art Deco period.


TAIlOR-mADE TIARAs

It all begins with a drawing.

The Chaumet 400,000 archive

drawings, as well as fashion and

contemporary collections, are all

sources of inspiration for creating

a unique piece of jewellery. Making

a tiara requires a special technique:

a volume model in nickel silver, with

which the jeweller adjusts the design

to the shape of the head and to the

way it will be worn.

Today, a special order requires 500

to 1,500 hours of work, representing

a timeframe of 5 weeks to 4 months.

These exclusive know-how and

expertise belong to the Chaumet

High Jewellery workshop located

12 Place Vendôme, Paris.


COllECTIONs

Heir of Head Jewellery through the

thread of time, Chaumet is once

again putting hair ornaments on the

front line. No longer sacred, wearing

a tiara is a statement that breaks with

customary habits and makes way for

new, fun and unexpected fancies.

As fashion is acclaiming them,

Chaumet is revisiting the tradition

in accordance with today’s

expectations.

Each new collection of jewellery

is being extended with a hair

ornament. Tiaras, headbands,

aigrettes and clips are being created

as unique items or limited editions.

As it lies in Chaumet’s tradition,

emotion and seduction are breathing

light-hearted humour into the latest

creations. Attrape-moi… si tu m’aimes

tiara features a love game. Le Grand

Frisson headband is an abstract

representation of love at first sight. It

is worn low on the forehead like in the

1920s, or in the hair with the elegant

simplicity of a modern princess.

Attrape-moi… si tu m’aimes (Catch me…if you love me) tiara

The seduction game symbolised by a lovers’ hide and seek

between a bee and a spider dancing on a web of yellow gold,

diamonds, fire opals, citrines, peridots, amethysts

and tourmalines.


Le Grand Frisson headband

A stirring head ornament, a circle of white gold and

diamonds, an abstract evocation of love at first sight.

Aigrette Frisson

High Jewellery expertise. Briolette-cut, princess-cut,

rose-cut and troida-cut diamonds are assembled as

if floating on knife wire. The central naturalistic motif

decorates a fine circle of white gold set with brilliants.

According to desire, feathers or ornaments may be

added. It can be transformed into a brooch, a clip or

a pendant.

Unique piece.


Attrape-moi… si tu m’aimes (Catch me…if you love me) headband

The web motif, symbol of love that grows.

Gold headband paved with 922 brilliant-cut diamonds.

Frisson clips

Diamond, tourmaline and pink sapphire,

all symbolising dew.

Dangling, like droplets forming, they evoke

the feeling and emotion of nature waking up.


GlOssARY

Aigrette

A hair decoration inspired by the feathers

of the bird with the same name. It

consists of a rigid base and a flexible part

comprising of a bouquet of real feathers

or precious motifs: flowers, leaves, ears of

corn, butterfly, insect antennae, star,

crescent, etc.

Crown

A closed circle – unlike the tiara, which is

always open at the back – decorated with

ornaments; a sign of authority, dignity and

nobility. Only royal and imperial crowns,

which are kingly symbols, are closed on

the top.

Fender

Prominent tiara associated with high

society dowagers and widows.

Ferronnière

Narrow chain encircling the forehead,

decorated with a pendant in the middle:

pearl, stone, cameo or charm. Its name

is inspired by the portrait, La Belle

Ferronnière attributed to leonardo da

Vinci, on which this type of jewellery is

featured.

Fork

Tortoiseshell comb with two prongs, and a

decorative top, introduced around 1900.

HeAdbAnd

Flexible and flat band, generally worn

low on the forehead. Originally simple

pieces of knotted material since Antiquity,

headbands were made from decorated

precious metal and sometimes enhanced

with stones.

kokoCHnik

Halo shaped tiara of traditional Russian

design known as kokoshnik (from “kokosh”:

cockerel’s crest), standing up on the head

like a cock’s comb.

MAilleCHort

French name for a volume model of a tiara.

made from an alloy of copper-nickel and

zinc. 500 models are kept in Chaumet’s

archives 12 Place Vendôme, Paris.

PAPAl tiArA

A high and closed head-dress, evoking the

shape of a beehive, ending in a point and

decorated with a globe or a cross.

surrounded by three golden crowns, it

symbolises the three powers of the Pope:

jurisdiction, magisterium and the sacred.

The founder of Chaumet created the tiara

offered by Napoleon I to Pope Pius VII after

his coronation.

tiArA

Head jewellery in the shape of a headband,

which widens towards the centre. sign of

power since Antiquity, it has been worn

by sovereigns or by women of high rank.

It came back to fashion in the early 19th century thanks to the Empress Josephine.

More magazines by this user
Similar magazines