Chickies Rock Climbing Guide - Michael Hartman's Home Page

Chickies Rock Park 

Rock Climbing Guide 

Michael S. Hartman 

Version 1.2 

January 8, 2012 

Copyright © 2012 by Michael S. Hartman. All rights reserved.

This Guide 

This is a simple guide to Chickies Rock Park in Lancaster County, PA. Hopefully, you will find it contains useful information. It is a work in 

progress. Some of the content may be inaccurate. Please e-mail any feedback about this guide to: michaelhartman@mhartman.net 

Credits 

Many of the routes and descriptions in this guide are based upon descriptions from Sue E. Holland's 1988 book “A Guide to Climbs at Chickies”. 

Some route descriptions were taken verbatim from this book. It is not my intention to infringe upon her copyright of this material. Based upon 

some content I have seen online, I believe Ms. Holland is ok with people using her route descriptions. Ms. Holland credited Eric Horst in her 

book for some of the route descriptions. Therefore, credit also goes to Mr. Horst. Some of the route descriptions are from online rock climbing 

web sites, as well. 

Disclaimers 

This guide is not affiliated with, nor endorsed by the Lancaster County Parks, nor any other organization, body, or group. 

Rock climbing and rappelling are dangerous activities and may result in severe injuries or death. Participants in these activities assume 

responsibility for their actions. The author has no liability for anyone who uses the information in this document. This document is a guide to 

climbing routes. It is not a climbing instruction manual. You should obtain proper training in climbing from qualified individuals before using the 

information in this guide. The information in this guide is believed to be accurate, but inaccuracies may exist. 

Directions 

Chickies Rock Park is located on the east side of the Susquehanna River in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. It is west of PA Route 441 and 

north of Route 30 and Columbia. From Route 30, take Route 441 north. Go up a steep, long hill. After you top out and you start to go downhill, 

the main parking lot is on your left (west). For climbing, it is easier to go all the way to the bottom of the hill and park on the pull-off on the left, 

adjacent to a grassy area and some small buildings. Do not block the access gate. There is limited parking space here. Park at the main lot if 

necessary. 

From the main lot: Hike the Chickies Rock Overlook trail to the Overlook. This is a short hike, approximately 10 minutes. From the Overlook, if 

you scramble down to the right, you end up at the Northwest Buttress. If you scramble down to the left, you end up at the Main Wall. Be careful, 

the scrambles can be a bit tricky. Bring good hiking shoes. 

From the grassy area pull-off: Walk west across the grass and pick up the trail into the woods. A trail forks off to the left and goes to the 

Northwest Buttress. If you skip the fork and continue along the trail, you come to an old railroad bed. Turn left on the railroad bed. The next area 

on your left is the Cave Area. After that is the Trail Valley Area and then the Main Wall. 

A map from the Lancaster Park department is on the next page. The online source of this map is: Chickies_finished13.pdf 

Chickies Rock Park Rock Climbing Guide Version 1.2 

Page 2

Map 



History 

Chickies Rock is a success for the climbing community. Many people worked hard to have climbing be recognized as a legitimate recreation 

activity that is allowed in the park. 

Permits 

No permit is needed for Chickies Rock Park. 

Ethics 

Chickies is a “traditional” climbing area. 

Climbing Rules 

None known. 

Names 

Area names, route names, and route grades have been preserved as best as possible. Let me know if you are aware of different area names, 

route names, or grades. 

To-Do List 

•More area topos: Cave Area, Trail Valley 

•Topos for the Too Easy, Train Station, and Nuts routes. 

•Verify some of the climbs on The Block can be setup via top-ropes. 



Climbing Areas 



Northwest Buttress - Left 



Northwest Buttress - Right 



Northwest Buttress 

Latitude, Longitude: 40° 03.164', -76° 31.514' 

When parking at the bottom of the hill off Route 441, the Northwest Buttress is the first climbing area on the left as you follow the trail through the woods 

towards the railroad tracks / river. 

Top-rope setup: Scramble up a path to the left of the buttress, then traverse out right on a narrow path to get to the top of the wall. Gear is mostly cams and 

slinging blocks. 

1. Frosted Flake (not shown on topo) – 5.3 (50 ft) 

Protection – (Trad?); top-rope 

Start 20 feet left of the northwest corner at the flake and crack. Climb the crack and corner to the top. 

2. Solution Crack – 5.8 PG (55 ft) 

Protection – nuts and cams, though no placements at the crux; top-rope 

The crack starts around 12 feet from the corner. Climb the crack through the crux and then easy climbing to the top. 

3. Great Expectations – 5.11a X (60 ft) 

Protection – top-rope 

To the right of Solution Crack. Climb straight over the bulge. Do not use any part of Solution Crack. 

4. By Pass – 5.10a X (60 ft) 

Protection – top-rope 

Same start as Great Expectations, but traverse right 4 feet under the small roof and then climb to the top. 

5. Hit and Run – 5.6 G (65 ft) 

Protection – Trad; top-rope 

Start in the dihedral 5 feet left of the corner. Climb up the dihedral then through a small overhang to the top. 



6. Northwest Corner – 5.4 G (65 ft) 

Protection – Trad (?); top-rope 

Climb the corner to the top. 

7. Northwest Buttress Direct – 5.9 R (65 ft) 

Protection – Rated R for lead. No protection from about 10' before the crux; top-rope 

Start about 2 feet right of the corner. Climb parallel to the corner without using the arete. Do not go too far right, either. 

7a. A more difficult start for Northwest Buttress Direct and Northwest Buttress. 

8. Northwest Buttress – 5.8 X (65 ft) 

Protection – Rated X for lead; top-rope 

Same start as Northwest Buttress Direct. Traverse to the right above the giant crack on Ivy League. Then climb to the top. 

9. Ivy League – 5.6 G (65 ft) 


Climb the giant crack and then climb to the top. 

On top-rope, finish by following the purple line to the top of the buttress. Swings from falls can be dangerous. 

10. Drop Out – 5.5 G (65 ft) 


Climb the Ivy League crack until you come to a flake on your right that you can undercling. Traverse right using the flake. Climb the corner. Then top out. 

On top-rope, finish by following the purple line to the top of the buttress. Swings from falls can be dangerous. 



The Cave 



There is bouldering inside the cave. 

(No topo. Route descriptions are from Sue Holland's book.) 

Cave Area 

Latitude, Longitude: TBD 

1. Quad-F – 5.3 (2 pitches) 

Start: 80 feet to the left of the center of the cave. 

Pitch 1: Climb sloping loose face to a third class gully leading to a rock corner. 80 feet 

Pitch 2: Climb the easy face and corners to the top. 140 feet 

2. Thorny Thicket – 5.0 (3 pitches?) 

Start: 50 feet to the left of the center of the cave. 

Pitches 2, 3: Climb the large corner and face to a grown-over gully. Continue to climb and scramble up to the top. 225 feet 

3. Hard Times – 5.10d PG (3 pitches?) 

Start: 20 feet right of the center of the cave. It is also 10 feet right of a large corner topped off by a large roof. 

Pitch 1: Climb up the face to several buckets under the roof, and about 3 feet right of a small corner, and continue up and left to another small corner. Belay 

here. There are questionable pins (remember this comment is from 1988!). 

Remaining pitch(es): Unknown. 

4. Waitin' for a Train – 5.8 PG (3 pitches) 

Start: 30 feet to the right of the center of the cave. Look for the white rock. 

Pitch 1: Climb the face and then the corner up to the overhang. Traverse left out under the overhang, and up another corner to another overhang. Traverse 

right 5 feet to a flake connected to the lip of the roof. Climb through the roof here. Climb up and left to a tree. 170 feet. 

Pitch 2: Climb up and left, heading towards a tree at the base of a corner. Climb up the corner to another tree. Continue up the easy but loose face towards 

the right of a crack that splits the overhang. Belay here. 130 feet 

Pitch 3: Climb up to and through the overhang, and then up the green face to the top. 40 feet 

5. Milt's Roof – 5.9 R (? pitches) 

Start: 15 feet left of the right end of the overhang system, and 20 feet right of the third tree on the right. 

Pitch 1: Climb the face up and left to a small corner going out over the roof. Climb out over the roof here and up to a second roof. Traverse right 6 feet and 

climb up and right to a ledge. 80 feet 

Remaining pitch(es): Unknown. 

6. Hugh's Roof – 5.9 PG (1 pitch) 

Start: Same as Milt's Roof. 

Climb the face up to the roof, 10 feet from the end of the overhang system. Climb through the roof at the V-notcvh in the lip on the left, and continue up to the 

ledge. 70 feet. Rappel down. 



(No topo. Route descriptions are from Sue Holland's book.) 

Trail Valley 

Latitude, Longitude: TBD 

1. Yo-Yo – 5.3 G (2 pitches) 

Start: 20 feet right of the overhang system in a large corner. 

Pitch 1: Climb the corner up to a ledge on the left. 70 feet 

Pitch 2: Continue up the corner and pass by a second overhang on the left side. Climb to the top. 100 feet 

2. Steppin' Out – 5.4 PG (2 pitches) 

Start: Same as Yo-Yo. 

Pitch 1: Same as Yo-Yo. 

Pitch 2: Climb the corner up and just pass the overhang. Traverse right 10 feet over the overhang, then continue up to the face and corner to the top. 120 feet 

3. Orangutan – 5.9 PG (3 pitches) 



Pitch 2: Climb up, then traverse right into a large dihedral topped off by an overhang. Climb the crack and face up to the roof. Go out the roof and climb the 

corner to the ledge. 

Pitch 3: Continue up the face and corner to the top. 70 feet 

4. Wild Orangutan – 5.10a PG (2 pitches) 



Pitch 2: Climb midway to the Orangutan roof, and traverse right out to a slightly overhanging wall. Climb around the corner of the face and to the top. 

5. Easy Street – 5.2 G (2 pitches) 

Start: 6 feet right of the Yo-Yo corner. 

Pitch 1: Climb up and right on an easy face. Continue up easy rock to a good belay spot. 100 feet 

Pitch 2: Continue easy climbing to the top. 100 feet 

6. Frigid Face / Direct Start – 5.6 PG (3 pitches) 

Start: 15 feet right of the Yo-Yo corner at a tree. 

Pitch 1: Climb the small corner to an overhang. Climb through the overhang on right and continue up and left to a ledge. Traverse right 10 feet to a small tree. 

Belay here. 40 feet. 

Pitch 2: Climb straight up the face above and through a small overhang. Go up and slightly right to a grassy face. Climb this face up and left towards a large 

tree. Belay on ledge behind this tree. 

Pitch 3: Climb the corner to the top. 30 feet 



7. Frigid Face – 5.9 PG 

Start: 9 feet right of Frigid Face / Direct Start (i.e. 24 feet right of the Yo-Yo corner) at a small vertical crack. Look for a black area left of a white strip. 

Pitch 1: Climb the crack and face up to a small ledge. From here, continue up and slightly left for 15 feet to another small ledge. 30 feet 

Pitches 2, 3: Same as Frigid Face / Direct Start. 

8. The Plaque – 5.10 R 

Start: In an overhang just left of a greenish block. 

Pitch 1: Climb through the overhang and continue up and right to the overhanging face. Climb the center of this face and belay on a small ledge. 60 feet 

Pitch 2: Climb the corner to the top up to a small tree and traverse 5 feet to the center of the overhanging face. Climb this face to a small belay lewdge. 50 

feet 

9. Chalk Circle – 5.6 PG 

Start: 2 feet right of the greenish block in a broken crack. 

Pitch 1: Climb the crack up to an overhanging face. Climb the center of this face to a small belay ledge. 55 feet 

Pitches 2, 3: Climb the corner to the summit. 

10. Chickies Direct – 5.7 PG 

Start: In the corner at the base of the hill, on the Valley Trail coming down from Witch's Brew, 10 feet right of the Chalk Circle. 

Pitch 1: Climb the corner up to a small tree and traverse left 5 feet to the center of the overhanging face. Climb the face to a small belay ledge. 50 feet. 

Pitches 2, 3: Same as The Plaque. 



Main Wall - Left 



Main Wall - Right 



Main Wall 

Latitude, Longitude: 40° 03.079', -76° 31.533' 

Top-rope setup: When at the base of the Main Wall, go around the right corner of the wall, scramble up the rocks, and then traverse left out to the Riverview 

Ledge. Bring good hiking shoes for the scramble. Gear varies by anchor placement, but you'll find cams, tri-cams, nuts, and hexes useful. 80 feet of static line 

can create any of the anchor setups. Use a 60 meter climbing rope, as a 50 meter rope will not reach the ground. Many of the routes described below cannot 

be climbed as described on top-rope. You will climb a portion of one climb and a portion of another climb on top-rope. However, you can climb pretty much 

anywhere you want on the main wall. 

1. Too Easy (not shown on topo) – 5.4 G 

Start: 10 feet left of Witch's Brew. 

Pitch 1: Climb the face up to the smooth rock center. Continue straight up to below the chimney. Belay here. 

Pitch 2: Climb the chimney to the top. Climb around left and up to the summit. 

2. Witch's Brew – 5.3 G 

Start: At the base of the large crack, left of the large dihedral. 

Pitch 1: Climb the face and crack to the chimney. 110 feet 

Pitch 2: Traverse left and climb the left side of the chimney, then climb to the summit. 50 feet 

3. Kissing Wall – 5.5 PG 

Start: Same start as Witch's Brew. 

Pitch 1: Same as Witch's Brew. 

Pitch 2: From the chimney, traverse right 15 feet under the large roof. Climb up into the right facing corner. Step up into the base of the corner. Traverse left 

on the arete and climb to the top. 

4. Main Street – 5.5 PG (1 pitch) 

Start: About 6 feet right of the large dihedral. 

Climb the face, then the crack. Traverse right to the Riverview Ledge to finish. 

5. Lester Molester – 5.8 X (1 pitch) 

Protection – Top-rope 

Start: About middle distance between the large dihedral on the left and the small dihedral near the base of The Library to the right. 

Climb straight up to the Riverview Ledge. 100 feet 



6. For Madmen Only – 5.7 R 

Start: At the small dihedral near the base of The Library. 

Climb the small dihedral. Then climb up to the bottom of the upper book (i.e. dihedral) of The Library. Then traverse right about 6 feet and climb the crack in 

the face to the top. 100 feet 

7. Touch and Go – 5.9 R 

Start: Below the large lower book (i.e. dihedral) of The Library. 

Climb through the overhang, then climb the arete of the lower book of The Library. Finish up by climbing the same crack as For Madmen Only. 100 feet 

8. The Library – 5.5 PG 

Protection: Micro protection is needed in the lower book. Not really “excellent for beginning trad leaders”, as is claimed by some. 

Start: Below the large right facing dihedral (i.e. the lower book). 

Climb up to the book, then climb the corner of the book to the large ledge. Traverse left about 6 feet and then climb the second book to the Riverview Ledge. 

115 feet 

9. Snow Flake – 5.4 PG 

Start: Same start as The Library. 

Climb the lower portion of The Library to the large horizontal crack where the lower book of The Library ends. Then traverse right and climb the crack in the 

face to the Riverview Ledge. 100 feet 

10. The Notch – 5.9 PG 

Start: Just left of Sunday Morning's start. 

Climb a short patch of choss to a short patch of smooth face, then through the overhang. Then climb up by going left of the outside corner to the Riverview 

Ledge. 100 feet 

11. Sunday Morning – 5.4 G 

Start: At the crack that is below the outside corner of the main wall. 

Climb the crack up to the overhang. Climb through the overhang using the flake on the left (or just climb directly through the overhang without using the flake). 

Continue climbing along the corner to the Riverview Ledge. 100 feet 

12. The Lower Undercling – 5.8 G 

Start: Same start as Sunday Morning. (The Hollywood start is a variation.) 

Climb the crack up to the overhang. Instead of climbing through the overhang, traverse left using the thin flake. Then climb the corner and/or face to the 

Riverview Ledge. 

13. The Undercling – 5.6 G 

Start: Same start as Sunday Morning. 

Climb the crack up to the overhang. Climb through the overhang and then climb about 8 feet in the corner. Then traverse left at the large flake.Then climb the 

corner and/or face to the Riverview Ledge. Note to leaders: if you finish this climb by rejoining Hollywood, the crux of Hollywood is near the Riverview Ledge 

and is 5.7. 



14. Hollywood – 5.7 PG 

Start: Below a thin crack, about 10 feet right of the Sunday Morning start. 

Pitch 1: Climb the thin crack up to the overhang. Pull the overhang and then climb the center of the face on the left to the Riverview Ledge. Just below the 

Riverview Ledge is a V notch. 110 feet 

Pitch 2: From where pitch 1 ended on the Riverview Ledge, traverse right 7 feet. Climb the face to the right to the top. 50 feet 

15. Train Wreck – 5.7 PG (not shown on topo) 

The first half is the Sunday Morning start, up through the overhang. The second half is Hollywood. 

16. Shrimp Scampered – 5.5 G 

Start: 15 feet right of Hollywood at a rough black face. The rock curves down somewhat. 

Pitch 1: Climb the face to a curving ledge. Traverse left to a small narrow overhang with a V-notch. Climb through the overhang and up the face to the corner. 

Climb the corner to the Riverview Ledge. 

17. Train Station – 5.1 (not shown on topo) 

Start: A small broken corner 25 feet left of the southwest corner. 

Climb the corner 15 feet to a small ledge. Traverse left 5 feet to a crack and climb the crack to the top. 30 feet 

18. Nuts – 5.4 PG (not shown on topo) 

Start: 3 feet right of the southwest corner, at the base of a sloping slab. 

Pitch 1: Climb the slab to a ledge. Continue straight up by scrambling up easy slopes to the base of a 25 foot face with many cracks in it. Climb this face to 

the tree. 120 feet. 

Pitch 2: Starting just left of the tree, climb up the face through a broken overhang to the top. 60 feet 



The Block - West 

Disclaimer: I have only climbed some of the routes on The Block. The route topos are my best guess based on the route descriptions. 



The Block - Southwest 



The Block (West & Southwest) 

These climbs start on the Riverview Ledge on the Main Wall. For setting up top-ropes, you get to the top by scrambling up a path to the right of the climbs. 

1. Riverview – 5.4 PG (Trad/top-rope) 

Start: At the far left end of the Riverview Ledge. 

Climb up and left over the overhang. Continue climbing the broken face in the corner to the summit. 60 feet 

2. Inverted V-Overhang – 5.10a PG (Trad/top-rope) 

Start: Same as Riverview. 

Climb up and left over the overhang. Then climb up and left to the large inverted V overhang. Climb through the overhang at its peak. Then climb the face to 

the top. 

3. Space Ace – 5.10d PG (Trad/top-rope) 

Start: Same as Riverview. 

Variation to Inverted V-Overhang, but climb through the inverted V overhang on its right edge, instead of at its peak. 

4. Ape Call – 5.8 PG (Trad/top-rope) 

Start: 5 feet left of the large roof (Mike's Roof) that is on the southwest corner of Riverview Ledge. 

Climb the overhanging blocks, go right above the roof, then step back left and then continue up to the top. 55 feet 

5. Mike's Roof – 5.10a PG (Trad/top-rope) 

Start: Under the large roof that is on the southwest corner of Riverview Ledge, at a small crack and notch on the lip of the roof. 

Climb up through the overhang and then climb the face to the top. 50 feet 

6. Mike Jr. – 5.9 PG (Trad/top-rope) 

Start: Just right of Mike's Roof, at another crack and notch on the lip of the roof (at a white rock). 

Climb through the overhang, past a horizontal crack, and onto the top of the overhang. Then climb the face to the top. 50 feet 

7. The Corner – 5.7 PG (Trad/top-rope) 

Start: In a small corner, right of Mike Jr. 

Step up in the corner and then traverse left 5 feet to a horizontal crack, just above the right lip of Mike's Roof. Climb up and over the roof, and continue up the 

face to the top. 50 feet 



The Block - Southeast 



These climbs are on the upper part of the south east face. 

The Block (Southeast) 

8. Bellyflop – 5.5 G (Trad/top-rope) [The route is shown on The Block – Southwest topo] 

Start: Scramble up the chossy rocky trail on the south end of the rock to the base of the south face at a dirt ledge. Begin the climb in a large broken corner on 

the left. 

Climb the corner and step left around the overhang to the top. 80 feet 

9. Paul's Pop Off – 5.9 PG (Trad/top-rope) [The route is shown on The Block – Southwest topo] 

Start: Same start Bellyflop. 

Climb the corner to the overhang. Climb through the overhang. Do not use the face on the left or the block on the right. Continue to the top. 50 feet 

A. Unknown (bolt anchor) 

An easy climb left of the corner in the center of the face. 

10. Zig – 5.4 PG (Trad/top-rope; bolt anchor) 

Start: 6 feet right of Bellyflop at the sloping steps. 

Climb straight up the step-face to the broken part of the overhang. Climb through the broken overhang. Climb straight up to the top. 55 feet 

11. Zig-Zag – 5.4 PG (Trad/top-rope) 

Start: Same start as Zig.. 

Climb straight up the step-face to the broken part of the overhang, and traverse right 5 feet to a vertical crack. Climb the crack to the top. 60 feet 

12. Zag – 5.5 PG (Trad/top-rope) 

Start: At a tree 5 feet right of Zig & Zig-Zag (and 7 feet left of the far corner). 

Climb up the face and through the overhang above. This will be just below the Zig-Zag crack. Climb the crack to the top. 50 feet. 

13. Southeast Corner – 5.2 (top-rope) 

Start: In the far corner (7 feet right of Zag). 

Climb the corner to the top. 25 feet

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