VINOS DE PARRAS ANTIGUAS - Vitis Magazine

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en la bodega in the cellar vinos en tinaja el círculo perfecto Los vinos en tinaja no sólo representan un rescate de una tradición milenaria, sino un reencuentro con los ciclos de la naturaleza y con una vida más simple y auténtica. Una vuelta a los orígenes, pero 36 ▼ Vitis Magazine l julio/agosto 2011 con los conocimientos de hoy. EDUARDO BRETHAUER R.
no hay revoluciones en la vitivinicultura, sino una suerte de revisión histórica. una reactualización. una vuelta atrás. un rescate de las tradiciones. los críticos están entusiasmados y expectantes. el mercado, algo escéptico. Mientras algunos esperan la bajada de bandera para los transgénicos, otros viajan en la memoria para emular a sus abuelos y a los abuelos de sus abuelos. Movimientos varios, con disímiles estilos y motivaciones, buscan diferenciarse a través de la producción de vinos con un fuerte apego a la tierra, más puros y quizás más honestos, alejándose de las nuevas tecnologías y de las corrientes imperantes. WINES IN TERRACOTA VESSELS THE pERfECT CIRCLE Aging wines in terracotta amphorae is not only an ageold tradition but a bridge towards the cycles of nature and a simpler, more authentic life. A trip back in time using today’s winemaking knowledge. the process of Making wine is not marked by revolutions but rather by a constant progression of historic revisions, a sort of regular update with continuous u turns and rescued traditions. critics seem enthusiastic and curious, but the market remains skeptical. while some winemakers are still waiting for a green light on transgenics, others have dared to travel back in time to emulate their grandparents and the grandparents of their grandparents. Different styles and different motivations, but all in search of a differentiating element that links their wines to the land that gave them life, hoping to achieve more honest and purer renditions, far away from today’s technology and fads. some winemakers focus their efforts on environmental protection and respect for the cycles of nature; others, on the preservation of those cultural manifestations that have forged or are forging the identity of the different growing regions. such is the case of organic, biodynamic and natural winemaking. this is the realm of eccentric, nostalgic or visionary producers who char their oak barrels, despise the use of enzymes and industrial yeasts, and avoid using sulfur dioxide as much as possible to prevent acetic taint. true, all this seems very old, but just on the outside. there is nothing more modern than retracing one’s own steps to bring the past back to life. history is no longer trapped by a cyclic or deterministic notion of time or by a hazy line of progress, as most industrialists of the 19th century once thought. time actually plays with us, running in parables and continually taking us back to our origins. without doubt, one of the great revisionists of the winemaking scene is josko gravner from the friuli-Venezia giulia region, who in 2001 decided to age his wines in large terracotta amphorae. “after a research trip to california in 1987 and having tasted more than 1,000 wines in just 10 days, i felt completely disenchanted. i went back home and told my wife: ‘i am sick and tired of conventional wines. they are going in the opposite direction to that of safeguarding the soil and the authenticity of the product’,” he recalls. ▼ Vitis Magazine l julio/agosto 2011 l 37
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