GG_N60_Couv_FRA-web

Sabrina Marino, marketing and

communications director

at Cave Jean Geiler

CAVE JEAN GEILER,

ALSACE’S TRUE

POWERHOUSE

G&G N° 60 - 122025 - € 7.95 - 2025/2026

PAGES 130-146

OUR TASTING PANEL’S SELECTION:

FRANCE: Alsace - Burgundy - Champagne – Cognac – Savoy

ITALY: Lugana DOC - SOUTH AFRICA - TURKEY

CONTENTS

COLUMNS / REPORTS

LÉGENDES

30

50

78

123

7

News

10

Blending

Champagne: is the historic

blend still as relevant?

18

Grape

• Cabernet-Sauvignon,

the varietal globetrotter

• Cabernet Mountain High:

Ridge vineyard’s exceptional

Monte Bello

32

Market

Why wines from Savoy are

in the ascendant

40

Climate

Climate-fit vines:

How South African

producers are planning for

a drought-resilient future

50

Appellation

Bourgogne – a treasure trove

of talent and taste

58

Grape

Lugana DOC and its worldclass

wines

67

Wine route

Wine tourism in Champagne:

the story of bubbles

74

Focus

Vicentino, capturing the

unique character of Atlantic

terroir

COVERS: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES

78

Appellation

The star-studded galaxy

of Alsace wines

86

Portrait

Laura Catena:

“If they defeat wine, they

defeat our historical

civilisation – wine is

sacred in many cultures.”

90

Discovery

Echoes in the vineyard:

The rebirth of Turkish

wine

98

Portrait

Morlet family vineyards

where excellence comes

second nature

102

Focus

Art Laietà, where

authenticity has a unique

flavour

106

Fair

Wine Paris 2026: three

shows, one vision for a

changing drinks industry

108

Terroirs

Saint-Emilion – Bordeaux’s most

welcoming wine region

114

Importer

The quiet empire:

how Boutinot built a global wine

business on drinkability and trust

118

Economy

Cognac stands firm

123

Portrait

Moor Barrio, the 1,000-bottle

‘bonsai winery’ in Mendoza

126

Stars & wine

Kevin Costner:

“Take the time to listen to

winegrowers - they’ll teach you

more than any book could”

128

Contact details

130

Gilbert & Gaillard tasting panel’s

2025 selection

Subscription form

Find out more about our

subscription offers on page 101

2025 - N°60 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 3

EDITORIAL

FRANÇOIS GILBERT - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

LUGANA DOC,

THE WHITE JEWEL IN LAKE GARDA’S CROWN

In the heart of northern Italy, along the southern shores

of Lake Garda, lies the Lugana DOC – one of the

country’s hidden wine treasures. Created in 1967, it was

one of Italy’s first DOCs. It spans some 2,500 hectares

between Lombardy and Veneto, producing approximately

25 million bottles annually. Lugana is synonymous with

elegant, complex white wines, mostly crafted from the

native Turbiana grape – formerly known as Trebbiano di

Lugana – which displays a unique persona in this corner

of Italy.

Here, terroir is a masterclass in harmony between nature

and geology. Shaped by glacial moraine dating back to

the Quaternary period, the soils are rich in compact clay,

limestone and minerals, offering excellent water retention

and moderate fertility. These gently flat landscapes,

perched about 100 metres above sea level, benefit from a

microclimate tempered by breezes rising off Lake Garda,

Italy’s largest lake. Mild winters, moderate summers

and ideal diurnal shift protect the vines from frost and

promote slow fruit ripening. The clay-rich soils lend the

wines their marked acidity, saline minerality and the

structure to age gracefully, sometimes for up to ten to

twelve years for the Riserva.

The appellation is also firmly in step with modern expectations,

with 70% of vineyards farmed organically or

in the conversion phase – an essential commitment to

safeguarding its liquid heritage. And yet, Lugana is far

more than wine – it is the distilled essence of a landscape

where terroir sets the tempo for excellence. Its wines do

more than please, they beguile with their white flower,

apricot and citrus aromas and their finely etched saline

touch. Without a doubt, this was our tasting panel’s

favourite discovery of the year.

4

2025 - N°60 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

EDITORIAL

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

THE ALSACE APPELLATION:

MODERN WINES WITH AN ANCIENT HISTORY

Like many European wine regions, Alsace’s vineyards

trace their origins back to Roman times. Yet it would

take nearly two thousand years for the local wine industry

to achieve a level of quality that would eventually warrant

appellation status. Today, the region’s bearing vineyard

area – including its Grands Crus and Crémants – covers

15,600 hectares. Most of this is classified as AOP Alsace

and dedicated primarily to dry white wines – 85% of

production – crafted from iconic grape varieties such as

Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot gris and Sylvaner.

Alsace’s vineyard sites unfold across a remarkable geological

mosaic. Stretching for 120 km along the foothills

of the Vosges, from Strasbourg to Mulhouse, they

benefit from a semi-continental microclimate defined

by moderate rainfall (600 mm/year), generous sunshine

(1,800 hours) and the protective barrier of the Vosges,

shielding them from the Atlantic weather system.

Thirteen major soil types have been identified: granite,

schist, limestone, volcanic, clay-marl, limestone-marl,

sandstone… These lend the wines their distinctive minerality

and, at times, true age-worthy characters.

This unique wine region offers countless strengths – the

proportion of estates converted to organic, for instance

(over 20% of acreage is certified), and its flourishing wine

tourism. Alsace’s central location at Europe’s crossroads,

attracts two million visitors a year, many drawn to its

celebrated wine route, a vital driver of the local economy.

Wines labelled under the Alsace appellation take centre

stage – they represent the lion’s share of production, sales

and consumption. In some ways, they form the liquid

signature of a region that excels for its resilience and its

excellence.


5

EDITORIAL

SYLVAIN PATARD - EDITOR IN CHIEF

CABERNET-SAUVIGNON, THE GLOBAL CITIZEN

Probably born in the 17th century in Bordeaux from

the chance crossing of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon

blanc, Cabernet-Sauvignon slowly rose to claim its

place as the most widely planted red grape variety in the

world. Tannic and firmly structured, capable of ageing

for decades, it delivers aromas of blackcurrant, cedar,

green bell pepper and spices that shift with its origins.

Little wonder that it has appealed to – indeed captivated

– winegrowers across the globe. In Tuscany, it slipped free

from Chianti’s shackles to produce modern, sun-drenched

wines with velvety tannins; perhaps more unexpectedly,

it landed in Sicily, which is where we went to meet it. In

Spain, it thrives in appellations like Ribera del Duero and

Priorat as a single varietal or blended with Tempranillo. It

appears in Portugal’s Alentejo, Hungary’s Villány, Bulgaria’s

Struma Valley and the north-east of Moldova where it

often comes at a remarkably accessible price.

The United States embraced it in the 1960s, especially in

California – Napa Valley may be home to its most iconic

iterations, yet we uncovered some real treasures farther

south in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Chile is Cabernet’s

volume champion, producing dense, blackcurrant-driven

Cabernets with vibrancy and rounded tannins – our

focus turned to those from the Maule Valley. Australia has

elevated it to star status in Coonawarra, the birthplace of

our chosen wine. South Africa, too, has carved out its place

on the global Cabernet map, notably in Stellenbosch and

Paarl where we explored fleshy, fruit-forward wines edged

with a touch of graphite.

From Bordeaux’s legendary gravel soils to the foothills of

the Andes, Cabernet-Sauvignon adapts with remarkable

ease – soaking up terroir, taming the climate and expressing

both in a kind of grand symphony orchestrated by

the winemaker’s skilful hand. One grape variety, a thousand

personas.

6


NEWS

A Frenchman in Sheffield may not have the same ring to it as an Englishman in New York but Patrick Jouan has turned his French

roots into one of northern England’s great wine success stories.

The founder of Cavavin Sheffield arrived

in the UK almost by accident in the

1980s. Originally planning to start a business

in the US after his military service, a chance

visit brought him to South Yorkshire –

and he never left. “I had five pounds in my

pocket”, he recalls with a grin, pointing to

the framed note still on his desk.

Undeterred by his lack of finances, he

sought to capitalise on his French origins

at a time when Great Britain was on the cusp

of a wine boom. Serendipity, though, continued

to play its part: “My father was friends

with Michel Bourel and Pierre Guellier, the

two entrepreneurs who had recently started

a wine group that would ultimately become

Cavavin”. On their advice, he bought his first

pallet of wine: “It proved to be a very hard

sell as the English were not familiar with the

wines at all! But I persevered”.

BUILDING A LOYAL

CLIENTELE

A FRENCHMAN, A FIVER AND A VISION:

THE STORY OF CAVAVIN SHEFFIELD

BY ELLEN BUDGE - PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF CAVAVIN SHEFFIELD

Since that baptism of fire, Patrick has established

a thriving business – he and his

staff of 16/17 sell to some 650 restaurants

and 5,000 private customers. Generously

stocked with some 1,500 product lines spanning

wines and spirits, his Cavavin store has

become a beacon not only for French expats

but also for retired executives: “I have a lot

of customers who had high-ranking jobs

in the UK, at Rolls Royce for example, and

would have to go to London otherwise to

find the wines they’re looking for”. Due to

his out-of-town location and customer base, the average spend is

high – between £70 and £100 – and it isn’t unusual for his regular

customers to spend in the hundreds. “At a typical English wine

merchant’s, people are often looking for price over quality”, he says.

“I take the opposite approach”.

PATRICK JOUAN (RIGHT) WITH HIS WIFE DIANNE AND

ONE OF THE STORE’S LONG-STANDING CUSTOMERS

PATRICK JOUAN’S SELECTION SKEWS HEAVILY IN

FAVOUR OF FRENCH WINES

CHAMPIONING FRENCH

WINE IN THE NORTH

To cater to the specific needs of his clientele,

he focuses primarily on Bordeaux complemented

by a wide range of wines from

other French regions and further afield.

“For retail sales, the split is 60:40 in favour

of French wines. In the on-trade it’s the

opposite, mainly because wine lists often

feature wines by varietal which benefits,

say, Argentinian Malbec or Italian Pinot

Grigio”. Noting that the English are a lot

more influenced in their choice of wine than

the French by what they hear in the media,

Patrick enjoys the challenge of encouraging

his customers to stray off the well-trodden

path. His extensive selection allows him to

entice them away from Prosecco to discover

Crémant d’Alsace, or make the switch from

the ubiquitous New Zealand Sauvignon

Blanc to Sancerre.

THE CAVAVIN CONNECTION

This is where the Cavavin network truly

comes into its own. “If we didn’t have the

central purchasing agency in Guérande, we

wouldn’t be able to stock such a broad selection”,

he stresses. As the largest Cavavin

store in the UK, Sheffield has become a hub

for other Cavavin outlets. “Today, we act as

Cavavin’s master franchiser in England,

receiving around 10 pallets a week then

dispatching some of them to the other

shops”. Since Brexit, the ability to consolidate

shipments has been a game-changer for wine merchants. “If I

didn’t have the backing of Cavavin, I wouldn’t want to have a retail

store in England”, he concurs. Four decades on, his story proves that

passion – and a touch of French persistence – can turn even the unlikeliest

place into a wine lover’s haven.


NEWS

CHARTREUSE: A MARKET AT FEVER PITCH

Crafted by Carthusian monks since the 17 th century, Chartreuse has travelled through the ages without ever surrendering its

aura of mystery. First conceived as a medical elixir, it later gained a reputation as a sophisticated after-dinner drink,

and eventually as a liqueur revered by connoisseurs. This is its unique story.

BY SACHA FRICHET - PHOTOGRAPHS: ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

SACHA FRICHET IS

ONE OF THE YOUNGEST

COLLECTORS WITH

A PASSION FOR

CHARTREUSE

In the mid-19 th century, demand had

grown so sharply that the monks

chose to industrialise production. By

1860, the Fourvoirie factory was turning

out some 50,000 bottles a month – a

remarkable figure for the era – until the

Carthusians were expelled in 1903. From

there, the liqueur stepped firmly into

History with a capital H: it appeared on

the Titanic’s final dinner menu in 1912 (peaches in Chartreuse

jelly); graced the table of Charles de Gaulle who was fond of its

filled chocolates; and filled the glass of one of its most devoted

admirers, American businessman J.P. Morgan.

THE CATALYSTS FOR ITS CURRENT

POPULARITY

Chartreuse’s current revival is driven first and foremost

by its renewed status in the gourmet food space. Barmen

and mixologists have rediscovered its singular potential for

sophisticated cocktails, creative tipples and daring flavour

pairings. The same holds true in high-end restaurants,

where chefs like Emmanuel Renaut (Flocons de Sel) and

Jean-François Piège have elevated it into a genuine statement

of culinary heritage.

The second reason is more unexpected: the monks have

deliberately reined in production. Faithful to their spiritual

calling, they refuse to succumb to overproduction and

8


NEWS

have capped output at 6 million litres a year. Their stance

is unequivocal: “We do not make Chartreuse for the market

but to sustain our community”. Rather than curbing enthusiasm,

this principle has in fact amplified demand by reinforcing

the idea that Chartreuse is rare – and therefore

precious and desirable.

Another pillar of success lies in the deft strategy of Chartreuse

Diffusion which oversees both distribution and marketing.

Quotas are intentionally set for each label and allocated with

precision: some are distributed to the on-trade while others

are released to wine merchants in minute quantities. In the

two official stores, private customers may purchase only three

bottles per person per year, and must provide identification.

And there is more: to generate excitement around both sales

and brand image, the company regularly issues commemorative

bottles and limited editions. Some are released

annually – like Santa Tecla and Tau for the Tarragona festivals

– whilst others only appear occasionally. This carefully

curated scarcity helps sustain desirability and fuels a thriving

secondary market.

THE FORCES DRIVING THE PRICE SURGE

Certain players continue to fuel the liqueur’s popularity and are

instrumental in price volatility. Wine merchants play a pivotal

role, some of them setting prices far above the original tags.

Many release only part of their allocation and hold back the rest

to sell later at a premium. Auction houses, too, have become

converts. In 2021, a Paris specialist told me with a wry smile

that his clientele had no interest in Chartreuse. Today, the same

auctioneer regularly features it in catalogues, with some lots

fetching record-breaking sums.

These sales drive prices to new heights which in turn inflate the

much-quoted ‘market prices’ that govern secondary-market

trade. In May 2023, for example, Swiss auction house Baghera

Wines reported over 1.5 million CHF in sales, including a green

Chartreuse from 1956-1964 that fetched CHF 7,830 (≈ €8,500), an

1878-1903 yellow Chartreuse sold for CHF 17,080 (≈ €18,300) and

a green 1973-1982 Tarragona Chartreuse that reached CHF 4,880

(≈ €5,200). In France, the same firm saw an 1840-1869 yellow Chartreuse

soar to €20,625 (plus an additional €6,000 in buyer’s fees).

Long-time collectors watched as their cellars turned into

genuine treasure troves. Some became specialists for prominent

auctioneers whilst others from Voiron sold their collections to

the same companies, despite proclaiming to be against speculation.

Given the sums involved, it isn’t hard to see why – the

proceeds were enough to purchase a spacious apartment.

Alongside these established aficionados, new players entered

the scene: investors and opportunists buying certain bottles

purely for the profits they could command on the secondary

market. Together, these dynamics have placed pressure on both

the primary (retail) and secondary markets.

A DECADE-LONG SURGE IN PRICES

Chartreuse has truly gained traction over the past decade. The

first noticeable price increases began in 2010-2012 at small

in-person and online auctions. The global pandemic then sent

demand soaring. Lockdowns, social media and the broader boom

in rare spirits combined to elevate Chartreuse from a curiosity

into a coveted liqueur for enthusiasts and collectors alike.

A few examples capture the scale of this upsurge: before Covid,

Chartreuse VEP traded for just over 100 euros – today, its price

tag in Paris exceeds €450. Jeroboams produced for the 9 th centenary

were still very affordable a couple of years ago – they’re

now snapped up at certain auctions for over €1,500.

CONCLUSION

Like certain Japanese whiskies or iconic Caribbean rums, Chartreuse’s

rise to fame was built on scarcity. But as the saying in

finance goes, ‘No tree grows to the sky’. It is therefore reasonable

to ask just how high prices can – or could – realistically

go for these extraordinary bottles.

If you’re interested in discussing this, join me on Instagram at

@sa.chartreuse


CHAMPAGNE: IS THE HISTORIC

BLEND STILL AS RELEVANT?

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS

PHOTOGRAPHS:

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES,

© JC AMIEL © LEE OSBORNE

Terroir, technical prowess and Champagne’s three historic grape varieties –

Pinot noir, Chardonnay and Meunier – have long underpinned the region’s

status as the world’s foremost wine appellation. Yet despite this global renown,

competition has never been fiercer. Could this threaten the qualities and

craftsmanship that built its reputation? We take a closer look.

MAISON BEAUMONT DES CRAYÈRES VINEYARDS ARE NESTLED AMONG THE HILLSIDES OF THE MARNE VALLEY

10


CHAMPAGNE

BLENDING

THE VINEYARDS AT MAISON BEAUMONT DES CRAYÈRES

T

he metrics certainly stack up. As the emblem of French excellence, expertise

and refined taste, Champagne has become a trusted companion of millions

of consumers worldwide. Although it only covers 0.5% of world vineyard acreage,

the appellation accounts for 8% of sparkling wine consumption by volume and

an impressive 34% by value. The figures certainly attest to the public and trade’s

perception of its reputation and quality. In 2024, Champagne shipments reached

271.4 million bottles – 56% of them exported – marking a 9.2% decline on 2023.

After three exceptional years, shipments have settled back to their pre-pandemic

level. Despite a tougher economic climate and declining global wine consumption,

Champagne has largely preserved its hard-won position. Its iconic grape variety –

Pinot noir – remains its mainstay. Accounting for 38% of vineyards, it brings the

wines body, power and structure. Chardonnay (31%) contributes delicate aromas

and floral notes, while Meunier (31%) – less prone to frost and particularly suited to

the clayey soils of the Marne Valley and harsher weather conditions – lends roundness,

suppleness and fruitiness. Alongside these, the spectrum has broadened

with the emergence of Blanc de Blancs – crafted from white grapes – and Blanc

de Noirs, made from red varieties such as Pinot noir and Meunier. The prestigious

Vintage category also stands apart: produced from grapes grown and selected in

the same year, these wines are matured for at least 36 months, often far longer.

These designations have certainly earned a noteworthy place in contemporary

marketing, but the foundational varietal trio remains the appellation’s defining

signature – an unshakeable marker in a wine region powered by excellence.


BRUNO VESSELLE IN HIS VINEYARD

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT, BRUNO, CAMILLE AND ÉRIC VESSELLE

BROTHERS ÉRIC AND BRUNO VESSELLE TASTING THEIR CHAMPAGNES

CHAMPAGNE GEORGES VESSELLE:

THE TIME-HONOURED FLAGSHIP

Located in Bouzy – one of Champagne’s 17 Grands Crus-classified villages – Domaine

Georges Vesselle is a showcase of time-honoured expertise that dates back to the 16th

century. Across its 18 hectares, Pinot reigns supreme. It accounts for 90% of the crop,

making it a backbone of the house style with its structured, long and powerful flavours.

Before his passing in 2009, Georges Vesselle shared with his sons – Eric, who oversees

production and winemaking, and Bruno, who mainly handles marketing and communications

– the techniques needed to craft a complementary range of Champagnes.

“Our wines primarily reflect our Bouzy terroir and Pinot noir characters”, explains Eric

Vesselle. The varietal is fruity, elegant and delicate, lending the wines structure with

abundant depth and the hallmark minerality of the Montagne de Reims. “Our goal is to

preserve the balance between power and finesse”. In the winery, the traditional varietal

duo Pinot noir and Chardonnay remains relevant though it is far from obligatory. “The

signature blend is a tremendous asset for Champagne, but each house has its own

identity”, comments Bruno Vesselle. “In our case, Pinot noir is the natural leader – our

cherished, historic grape variety. Ensuring coherency between our style and what our

vineyards naturally produce is paramount”.

12


CHAMPAGNE

BLENDING

CHAMPAGNE LACUISSE FRÈRES :

AN ODE TO MEUNIER

Established in 1960 by Julien Lacuisse, this

regional benchmark has grown significantly to

its present-day 17 hectares in the heart of the

Premier Cru-classified village Sermiers. “The

hallmark feature of our Champagnes is their fruitdriven

profile”, says company president Christian

Lacuisse. “Their main varietal component is

Meunier. The soils are mostly marl, clay and sand,

helping the grapes fully express their flavours and

aromas while delivering distinctive minerality”.

The approachable trio of Pinot noir, Meunier and

Chardonnay still accounts for the highest volumes,

even as consumers increasingly seek drier, more

food-friendly styles reminiscent of still wines.

In response, the estate has developed more

characterful, single varietal cuvées: Meunier Brut

Nature label Concerto Blanc de Noirs and 100%

Chardonnay Boléro Blanc de Blancs, which offer

a compelling counterpoint to traditional blends

through their singular style. “The value for money

offered by our classic labels remains unbeatable”,

claims sales representative Romain Simmonet.

“But it remains essential to talk about terroir –

this is ultimately where the grapes derive their

individual characters and it’s what our customers

are most eager to understand”.

CHRISTIAN LACUISSE, PRESIDENT OF CHAMPAGNE

LACUISSE, AND FRANCE AND EXPORT SALES

REPRESENTATIVE ROMAIN SIMONNET

CHAMPAGNE PHILIPPONNAT:

THE HISTORIC HEART OF

CHAMPAGNE

Apvril Le Philipponnat was both a pioneer and a

visionary: in 1522, he became the first ancestor of

this revered Champagne family to farm vines. The

Philipponnat name – shortened during the French

Revolution to make it sound less aristocratic –

was among the earliest signatures to appear on

sparkling wines in the 19th century. Over sixteen

generations, the family has continued to shape

and refine its Champagnes, upholding exacting

standards. Their focus on ripeness and concentrated

fruit is central to their Réserve Perpétuelle


13

CHARLES PHILIPPONNAT IN HIS VINEYARD

THIERRY GARNIER, THE WINEMAKER AT CHAMPAGNE

PHILIPPONNAT

Brut label whose structure and vinosity are Pinot noir hallmarks. “This is the

cornerstone of our Champagnes, complemented by Chardonnay with a balance

of Meunier”, stresses Charles Philipponnat. “These classic blends are in harmony

with the site-expressiveness of our limestone soils which confer marked minerality.

The result is a broad, coherent and precise range of styles”. While the region’s

winegrowers traditionally reserved Vintage bottlings for outstanding years in

both quality and volume, Charles Philipponnat deliberately takes a very different

approach, spurred on by the positive effects of a changing climate. “We now craft

Vintage labels more frequently, selecting fruit rigorously from Premier and Grand

Cru vineyards”, he explains. “They share the same intensity, freshness and elegance

imparted by their lengthy lees ageing, both in the bottle and in the cellar. They

mature for at least six years so that they can genuinely express their terroir and

harvest year”.

CHAMPAGNE BEAUMONT DES CRAYÈRES:

ELEGANCE WITH A TERROIR FEEL

The successful story of this co-operative winery began in 1955 when a group of

grape growers united under a single banner to honour the region’s king of grape

varieties – Meunier – and its queen of flowers, the rose, which would become

the emblem for a brand that now represents 240 grower members. “Our cellar

master exercises meticulous care throughout the winemaking process to express

the elegance and subtlety that best reflect our terroir”, explains president Jean-

14


VINEYARDS BELONGING

TO CHAMPAGNE LACUISSE

FRÈRES

CHARLES PHILIPPONNAT

IN THE FOREGROUND,

AT A TASTING

MICHEL BERNARD

INSPECTS HIS STILL WINES

SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 15

CHAMPAGNE

BLENDING

JOHANN GENDRON, EXPORT MANAGER AT

CHAMPAGNE BEAUMONT DES CRAYÈRES

JEAN-NOËL PLANÇON, CHAIRMAN OF

CHAMPAGNE BEAUMONT DES CRAYÈRES

Noël Plançon. “The juice from each grape variety

is fermented separately. During pressing, smaller

lots are set aside for quality purposes in order to

produce a unique Champagne with impeccable

ageability where dosage adds the finishing touch”.

The blends reflect the co-operative’s overall varietal

distribution – 60% Meunier, 25% Chardonnay and

15% Pinot noir – epitomised by the Grande Réserve

which corners 75% of sales. “Expanding the range

has allowed us to introduce more Blancs de Blancs,

Blancs de Noirs and Vintage labels”, adds export

manager Johann Gendron. “These more specific

Champagnes remain niche but they appeal to

customers eager to explore new styles, while traditional

blends still command 80% of the market.

Our communications focus on the history of the

co-operative, its terroir, its Meunier expertise, its

members and its staff, highlighting the vineyards,

winemaking process and people”.

CHAMPAGNE DE LA

RENAISSANCE: THE ART OF

GRAND CRU CHARDONNAY

THE VAT HOUSE AT MAISON BEAUMONT DES CRAYÈRES

A decade has passed since Michel Bernard took

over from his mother Nelly Dhondt who founded

this 8.6-hectare vineyard in the Côte des Blancs

in 1974. His signature Champagnes are marked

by remarkable purity, crafted with patience

and precision from grapes grown sustainably

using techniques that protect the soils and life.

“Each bottle is conceived as an artisan wine –

well-judged, rare and a faithful rendition of the

Grands Crus identity of the Côte des Blancs”,

feels Bernard. “We cultivate a form of treasured

rarity by limiting production, maintaining exacting

standards and crafting a style that is assertive

yet subtle”. All the fruit is estate-grown in Chardonnay

Grand Cru vineyards, giving the wines a

pure, elegant signature that clearly reflects both

place and year. “The long-standing combination

of Pinot noir, Chardonnay and Meunier remains

a staple for many Champagne houses, but it is not

essential for Champagne to express itself”, adds

Michel’s sister, Hélène. “For us, Chardonnay alone

16


MICHEL BERNARD TASTING STILL WINES

MICHEL BERNARD CHECKS THE QUALITY OF THE CROP

fully delivers the richness and finesse we aim for. Therefore, Blanc de Blancs is not

a passing trend but quite simply the most accurate expression of our terroirs. Our

major asset is the fact that we are a family estate harvesting and vinting our own

grapes and producing Chardonnay Grand Cru in small quantities – a true rarity.

Wine enthusiasts in export markets appreciate this transparency, our proficiency

from tillage through to winemaking and a very distinctive, precise, straightforward

and honest style. This clarity of identity naturally sets us apart”.

PINOT NOIR, CHARDONNAY AND PINOT MEUNIER –

CHAMPAGNE’S ROBUST FRONT-LINE

The winegrowers we spoke with share a common view: while Champagne can be

inspired by innovation, its true strength lies in its long-standing expertise which

resonates with contemporary consumer trends. Most skilfully capture the unique

features of their vineyard sites coupled with the expressive power of their grape

varieties. From an historical perspective, a collective effort at the end of the 19th

century to elevate the region’s wines fostered a more selective approach to vine

plantings, retaining only the highest quality plants. The three main cultivars

that endured – Pinot noir, Chardonnay and Meunier – each lend the wines their

distinctive character traits with the ideal balance of sugar and acidity for making

sparkling wine along with rich yet subtle flavours. Ultimately, this foundational

triangle has never been subsumed into a modern marketing narrative and remains

the robust cornerstone of this iconic appellation.


CABERNET-SAUVIGNON,

THE VARIETAL GLOBETROTTER

BY ALAIN ECHALIER

PHOTOGRAPHS:

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES

Cabernet-Sauvignon, aka Burdeos Tintos, Lafit, Bouschet, Carmenetor or

Petite Vidure, ranks among the most widely grown red Vitis Vinifera varieties

worldwide. While Bordeaux remains its most iconic home, over time it has

garnered acclaim across every winemaking continent. Join us on a journey

around the globe as we track down a cultivar with the uncanny ability to thrive

under many latitudes.

CABERNET-SAUVIGNON, A VARIETY THAT EXPRESSES ITSELF OVER TIME AT MONTROSE

18


CABERNET-SAUVIGNON

GRAPE

CABERNET-SAUVIGNON AT LASCOMBES

Retracing the origins of any heritage grape variety is always a delicate exercise. The earliest detailed

descriptions and documented usages of the name Cabernet-Sauvignon date back to the 18 th century

in the French region of Gironde. By then, the cultivar was already widely established in the Médoc and

featured prominently in vineyards at chateaux like d’Armailhac and Mouton-Rothschild.

The name itself hints at the combined parentage of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. Flavour descriptors

seemed to support the theory as well: the green bellpepper and black fruit aromas typical of Cabernet

Franc and herbal blackcurrant bud aromatics reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc lent further credence to

the idea. Yet the theory was only recently confirmed by DNA varietal testing conducted in 1990 by a team

of scientists at the University of California, Davis. One mystery still lingers though: was the crossing a

chance natural occurrence or was human intervention involved?

CABERNET’S DEFINING FEATURES

In addition to genetic analyses, the leaves help with identification, as with any grape variety. In Cabernet-Sauvignon’s

case, the young leaves are reddish with bronze. Adult leaves have seven or nine lobes

with flat-bottomed or u-shaped sinuses. The tips have medium to large teeth.

The variety produces small, rounded, black and deeply pigmented berries forming small clusters. Their

thick skins are fairly tannic. It is vigorous and on fertile soils, the canes grow big and the shoots long,

making pruning both delicate and time-consuming. Cabernet-Sauvignon is also a late-ripening cultivar.

At Domaine de Vassal – home to an extensive collection of reference vines – bud-burst on Cabernet-Sauvignon

vines occurs 13 days after Chasselas, 9 days after Pinot Noir and 6 days after Syrah. Ripening

follows a similar pattern: three weeks after Chasselas, and one week after Syrah.

Cabernet-Sauvignon has many clones, identified under numbers such as 15, 169 and 170. The Bordeaux

vine conservation has over 250 different clones.


HARVESTING GRAPES

IN THE SUNSHINE

WINE STYLES

At full ripeness, Cabernet-Sauvignon yields intensely-coloured wines. Extended skin contact can

accentuate the tannins in the wines, whilst the varietal’s hallmark vegetal aromatics – sometimes

found off-putting – tend to soften to more appealing nuances when the grapes reach peak ripeness.

Historically, these variations led to wide price fluctuations from one vintage to the next, sometimes

by as much as threefold. Today, climate change has ironed out these differences – with cold vintages

increasingly rare, the juice consistently shows acidity and produces very lively, energetic wines.

Generally speaking, the wines’ inherent power, aromatics and tannin structure make them particularly

suitable for barrel maturation, preventing them from being overwhelmed by oak. When this is

followed by lengthy bottle ageing, the resultant wines tend to show suppler tannins and develop the

variety’s signature blackcurrant characters, enriched by cedar, mint and tobacco notes.

PARTNERS IN WINE

In very warm regions such as California’s inland valleys, Cabernet-Sauvignon can be fermented as

a single varietal. In many countries, though, even if the label states Cabernet-Sauvignon, this only

guarantees that 75% of the wine is made from the grape; the other 25% can come from other varieties.

In Bordeaux, blending is the rule rather than the exception and the variety that most naturally complements

Cabernet-Sauvignon is undoubtedly Merlot. It develops fuller body, red and black fruit aromas

that mesh well together, softens acidity and rounds out the tannins. Its thinner skins promote ripening

– even in cooler summers, winegrowers can be assured about quality even when Cabernet-Sauvignon

retains a touch of greenness.

Blends from Gironde may also feature Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, or even a dash of

20


CABERNET-SAUVIGNON

GRAPE

Carmenere – all native to South-West France. The

Bordeaux blend therefore offers a range of six different

grape varieties for winegrowers to choose from.

The blend, which is frequently replicated around the

world, has even been registered in the United States

for wines containing at least two of the six Bordeaux

grape varieties. ‘Meritage’ – a portmanteau word

combining ‘merit’ and ‘heritage’ – was coined in the

1980s by Californian producers as a way of popularising

the concept of a blend in a country where consumers

often swore only by single varietals.

Elsewhere, other varieties can occasionally be paired

with Cabernet-Sauvignon. It isn’t uncommon to find

it blended with Pinotage in South Africa or Malbec

in Argentina. In Italy, prestige wines referred to as

the Super Tuscans also contain Sangiovese whilst in

Spain, Tempranillo tends to mesh well with Cabernet-Sauvignon.

Join us as we journey through Europe and the New

World to explore benchmark wines from storied

wine regions and new discoveries that highlight this

iconic grape variety’s global reach.

THE IMPRESSIVE CELLAR AT MONTROSE

VINCENT DECUP, TECHNICAL DIRECTOR OF MONTROSE

CHÂTEAU MONTROSE,

CLASSIC SAINT-ESTÈPHE

Our global tour of Cabernet-Sauvignon begins at

Château Montrose. By Bordeaux standards, the estate

is a relative newcomer, founded in 1815 when Etienne

Théodore Dumoulin cleared moorland and planted

vines. Yet it rapidly established a reputation for itself.

By 1855 – just 40 years later – its wines had earned a

place in the historic classification of that year.

Thanks to the ingenuity of their owner, vines at

Montrose survived the phylloxera crisis that devastated

Europe’s vineyards in the second half of the

19th century. He installed a wind-powered pump

to flood the vines, ridding the soil of the larvae that

thrive there. As a result, when the current team

took over at the property’s helm, they discovered

remnants of ancient Cabernet-Sauvignon plant

material. However, although these old vines were

less prone to disease due to their loose clusters,

they had often been selected for productivity rather

than quality.


21

PIERRE GRAFFEUILLE AND CHARLOTTE BOUYGUES AT THE HELM OF MONTROSE

In 2014, a comprehensive vine pull, selection and replanting programme was launched, explains the property’s

technical director Vincent Decup. The decision coincided with the arrival of its new owner, French

businessman Martin Bouygues, and it also included a vine conservation centre.

Montrose is distinctive for its unbroken expanse of vineyards. The typical Médoc soils contain gravel and sand

on the surface with clay beneath, but subtle variations allow them to be divided into 20 small blocks featuring

20 different terroirs. Cabernet-Sauvignon currently accounts for 60% of the varietal range, complemented by

32% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Gradually, the vines have been converted to organic and

2025 is likely to mark the first certified vintage although the designation may not appear on labels.

The very hot summers of 2003, 2018 and 2022 prompted significant changes in winemaking procedures.

The fruit is picked earlier and skin-contact maceration times are shorter. Maturation also involves less new

oak for shorter timespans. Out in the vineyards, an R&D team has installed humidity and heat sensors while

modelling scenarios for 2070. The aim is to increase the share of Cabernet-Sauvignon, which performs well in

hot regions, but to have a selection of vines that do not need picking too early since longer hang-times tend to

enhance quality. Several avenues are being explored to achieve this – using Rhone Valley rootstock, lowering

vine densities from 9,000 to 7,000 per hectare and raising vine height from 45 to 70 cm. The overriding aim

is to continue to harvest at the end of September.

CHÂTEAU LASCOMBES, OR WHEN SLEEPING BEAUTY AWAKENS

Now renowned for its Napa Valley holdings, including Heitz Cellars, the Lawrence family of America bought

this Margaux powerhouse in 2022. To drive a new era of quality, they enlisted the help of Axel Heinz, the

German-born, Bordeaux-trained winemaker celebrated for his work at the prestigious Super Tuscans Ornellaia

and Masseto.

22


AXEL HEINZ, THE WINEMAKER AT LASCOMBES

CHÂTEAU LASCOMBES

Heinz explains that the strategy at Lascombes will partly involve increasing the share of

Cabernet-Sauvignon in the ‘grand vin’, focusing especially on Cabernets that grow on

the property’s most suitable soils, where they were originally located in 1855. Although

the chateau has 115 hectares under vine, recent plantings have left Merlot acreage

virtually equal to Cabernet-Sauvignon. By focusing on Cabernet-Sauvignon grown

in shallow gravel located just north of the village, the top wine’s share will drop to 40%

– compared with 70% in the past – but the quality of the wine will be far superior. “In

Margaux, Cabernet must be distinctive – this is not Pauillac Cabernet”, notes Heinz.

“Inevitably, we expect a silkier texture”.

No specific Cabernet-Sauvignon clones are required because Lascombes boasts

vineyards that date back to the 1950s, before clonal selections became standard practice.

Work will therefore involve producing massal selections from the existing vines.

One of the keys to vineyard resilience and resistance to disease lies in genetic diversity,

and again, this should add greater complexity to the wines.

In the winery, granular analyses have paved the way for smaller winemaking batches,

where one large block can be picked as two or three different batches to enhance precision.

To accommodate this, the number of tanks has doubled. Maturation remains

centred on oak, but the wood’s influence should remain as transparent as possible in

the wine.

Keeping wines is always a challenge within the industry, but fine Bordeaux is so much

more interesting with a few years’ bottle age. Accordingly, the plan is to adjust the

ratios, with fewer En Primeur wines, more inventory and ideally a range featuring

wines with up to ten years’ bottle age. One further benefit of this system is that it provides

a financial cushion in the event of very low-yielding vintages.


CABERNET-SAUVIGNON

GRAPE

MAN WINES SA,

CABERNET WITH CHARACTER

JOSÉ CONDE

JOSÉ CONDE IN FRONT OF A TYPICAL SOUTH AFRICAN HORSE-DRAWN TRAILER

When Philip, Tyrrel and José established their

South African wine business in 2001, they named

it after the initials of their wives – Marie, Annette

and Nicky. “That is how we explained to them that

we were going to be “busy” most weekends. It’s

for you!” laughs José, the American-born partner

married to Stellenbosch-based Marie.

Today, MAN sources 90% of its fruit from around

30 partner farms. The company operates three

wineries, two of which it owns, in Stellenbosch

and Paarl. Annual production amounts to 250,000,

12-bottle cases, “which is an average size for the

country”, comments José.

Cabernet-Sauvignon accounts for 40% of the

business. MAN markets a single varietal wine

under the ‘Kalant’ brand name, meaning ‘rogue’.

As in Europe, a South African wine labelled with

a varietal name must contain 85% of that grape.

Here, Cabernet-Sauvignon grapes have no issues

with ripening. In fact, if the fruit becomes very

ripe, a touch of Petit Verdot is added to bolster

acidity in the wine. It also helps soften the tannins.

Alcohol levels typically range from 13.5 to 14%.

All the vines are grafted to combat phylloxera and

the company works with a dozen or so Cabernet-Sauvignon

clones – heritage selections from

the Constantia peninsula. 95% of the company’s

vineyards are dry-farmed. The often-fractured

schist soils enable the roots to seek out water up

to 15 metres or so below ground. Stylistically, José

feels his Cabernet-Sauvignons are more akin to

Bordeaux than to California – although they can

be drunk in their youth, they have “more tannin

structure than American iterations”.

BODEGAS TAGUA TAGUA, CHILE,

WHERE HARD WORK PAYS OFF

Founded in 1902 by the Correa Albano brothers, the

company is still family-owned after five generations.

It is based in San Vincente de Tagua Tagua,

140 kilometres south of Santiago. Andres Correa is

24


TASTING TAGUA TAGUA WINES AS A FAMILY

the youngest of the four brothers at the firm’s helm. Every year, the siblings reconnect with

a six or seven-day horseback ride through Patagonia, “with no tent”, he says. Two brothers

and their father remain based at the original site, which now hosts one of three wineries.

The vineyards extend across the Colchagua Valley, Maule and the Cachapoal region with 95%

under family ownership. The days are hot and the nights are cool and most of the vineyards

require irrigation as increasingly dry seasons have defined the past decade or so. The biggest

threat here though is spring frost and every available technique is used to combat it, from

vineyard candles to helicopters circulating the cold air. The grapes are typically harvested in

March and April.

Annual production totals 9.5 million bottles, 95% of them exported worldwide – their continued

growth stands in stark contrast to a declining market. Andres, who spends half of the

year travelling, attributes this success to independent ownership and hard work. “For us, this

is not a hobby, or a status symbol”.

The Cabernet-Sauvignon accounts for 22% of production and is labelled with the ‘Central

Valley’ regional appellation, spread across five tiers. The entry-level un-oaked varietal style

retails for $7.99, while the Gran Reserva includes both single varietals and blends with Syrah

and Nebbiolo. At the pinnacle of the range is the ‘Family Reserve’ single varietal Cabernet-Sauvignon

which has a price tag ranging from $100 to $400 depending on the markets.

CANTINE ERMES, THE SICILIAN CHALLENGER

Cabernet-Sauvignon may not be the first grape you associate with Sicily, yet it has

found a place here. Communications manager Annapaola Cipolla introduces the agricultural

co-operative established in 2008 in Gibellina, Sicily, which is renowned on the


JOSÉ CONDE, MARIE CONDE,

ANNETTE MYBURGH,

TYRREL MYBURGH,

NICKY MYBURGH AND

PHILIP MYBURGH

BORDEAUX

TRAVEL

WITH THE CORREA

SIBLINGS, WESTERNS ARE

NEVER FAR AWAY

26

CABERNET-SAUVIGNON

GRAPE

island for its love of contemporary art. Vines

are grown here so that they can soak in the

influence of the volcanic soils on Etna. Vitis

Vinifera vines extend over a total 140 hectares,

although the co-operative also farms a number

of other crops.

Most of the wines are released under the Sicilia

DOC regional appellation with the vineyard mix

skewing heavily towards varieties native to the

island, including the celebrated Nero d’Avola.

Inevitably, all the vines are grafted as phylloxera

persists on the island. Rainfall is a rare occurrence

here and the soils dry out very quickly.

So, is there room for Cabernet-Sauvignon here?

Though hardly a Sicilian classic, a few years ago

the co-operative’s winemaker decided to take

the experiment forward, mirroring the island’s

trailblazing vinous spirit. At 600 metres above

sea level, where cooler temperatures occasionally

moderate the summer heat, one hectare of the

Bordeaux varietal was planted. These soils are

predominantly limestone rather than volcanic

as the site lies outside the Etna area. Cabernet

can therefore be dry-farmed and the fruit picked

around August 8, though here, as elsewhere,

harvesting is increasingly early.

The aim is not to craft a single varietal style but

to incorporate Cabernet-Sauvignon in blends. A

high-end cuvee was therefore designed by blending

90% Nero d’Avola and 10% Cabernet-Sauvignon.

As befits such a powerful wine, it spends

18 months in barrels and then two years in the

bottle to mature before release. “This is a wine for

connoisseurs which is highly prized by sommeliers”,

remarks Cipolla with pride.

ANNAPAOLA CIPOLLA, COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER AT

CANTINE ERMES

THE CO-OPERATIVE’S TANKS

CHÂTEAU PURCARI,

CABERNET FROM

EASTERN EUROPE

The estate is introduced by Remus Turcan. It

belongs to an industry behemoth which farms

1,800 hectares of vines across Moldova, Romania

and Bulgaria. Purcari is the flagship for its

premium wines, grown over nearly 500 hectares


27

CABERNET-SAUVIGNON

GRAPE

CHATEAU PURCARI

REMUS TURCAN

AN AERIAL VIEW OF CHÂTEAU PURCARI AND ITS VINEYARDS

under vine, 300 of them dedicated to red varieties.

Founded in 1827, the estate is approaching

its 200 th anniversary. “During the Soviet occupation

of Eastern Europe, French grape varieties

that were widely planted internationally

were prioritised”, explains Turcan. Conversely,

native grape varieties were pushed to the brink

of extinction. For the past few years, though, the

tide has turned and they are attracting renewed

interest, with Purcari at the forefront of the

movement. Meanwhile, Cabernet-Sauvignon can

rest easy – its wines continue to sell well.

For Cabernet-Sauvignon, the aim is to push sugar

and potential alcohol levels along with phenolic

ripeness in order to achieve fine tannins. This is

no mean feat in north-eastern Moldova where

Purcari is located. Summer temperatures routinely

reach 30°C while the proximity of the Black

Sea – located just sixty or so kilometres away

– brings cooling night winds that instil good

acidity. An irrigation system has been installed

but is seldom required – as Turcan points out,

drought tends to occur more in the southern part

of the country.

Cabernet-Sauvignon is bottled either as single

varietals or in blends with Merlot or Saperavi.

Retail prices range from €12 to €18 and the

wines are distributed primarily in Romania but

also to around forty other countries. So how do

they compare with Bordeaux? Turcan says they

tend to be slightly riper with greater body and

fruit characters. Depending on the wines in the

range we were shown, the style falls somewhere

between New World and Old.

COX WINE MERCHANTS AND

THEIR AUSTRALIAN CABERNETS

Tim Cox hails from northern Australia. After

working for one of the country’s largest wine

groups, he founded Cox Wine Merchants in 2009

with his British wife, a fellow wine enthusiast.

In addition to sourcing fruit and crafting wines,

they have also started a business using grapes

from their own vineyards.

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CABERNET-SAUVIGNON

GRAPE

Their 8 hectares under vine in the Tumbarumba

wine region include a number of French

grape varieties such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay,

but no Cabernet-Sauvignon. That’s

because the climate here is not ideal for this

heat-loving cultivar. Visitors, however, can still

enjoy Cabernet on site – like many wineries in

Australia, this property offers hospitality facilities

including accommodation and a place to eat.

Cox Wine Merchants sources its Cabernets from

hotter parts of the country and Australia has no

shortage of those. The ‘Purple Hands’ range, for

example, includes Cabernet-Sauvignon from the

Barossa Valley made from own-rooted vines that

may date back to 1880. After a meticulous fouryear

maturation process, the resultant wines are

released to widespread acclaim.

Another region renowned globally for its Cabernet-Sauvignon

is Coonawarra. Its terroir is

particularly well suited to the varietal because it

promotes slow, even ripening – typically the fruit

is not harvested until the beginning of May. The

soils – limestone over deeper clay – are effective

at retaining water. Here, Cox Wine Merchants

select fruit from a single vineyard planted in

1997. Maturation favours the light touch and the

aromatic wines are best enjoyed within six to

eight years. In the McLaren Vale area, Cox Family

Wines also has a Cabernet-Sauvignon blended

with Shiraz – imagine just how powerful a wine

blended from such characterful grape varieties

can be.

Our journey demonstrates the remarkable

geographical reach of Cabernet-Sauvignon.

There are a number of reasons for this, starting

with its structure, which inevitably helps produce

age-worthy wines. Then there’s its appealing

range of aromatics where violet meshes with

blackcurrant and blackberry flowing into cedar,

tobacco and cacao with age. Also, its fairly late

growing cycle has so far made it one of the most

resilient varieties in the face of climate change.

Combined, these features make it unlikely to fall

from grace in the near future and it’s not difficult

to understand why, with multiple personas

woven into its rich fabric.

TIM COX TASTING HIS WINES

TIM COX IN HIS VINEYARDS


29

CABERNET MOUNTAIN HIGH:

RIDGE VINEYARD’S EXCEPTIONAL

MONTE BELLO

BY JAMAL RAYYIS

PHOTOGRAPHS:

COURTESY OF RIDGE VINEYARDS

Despite its origins, likely in the Southwest of France, Cabernet

Sauvignon – the wine identified by grape variety – might legitimately

be said to have reached its apogee in California. The Grands Crus of

the Médoc, for instance, are mostly based on Cabernet Sauvignon,

but they are not labeled by variety. California winemakers, on the

other hand, have featured the grape, front and center, for decades.

RIDGE’S MONTE BELLO VISITOR CENTER AND WINERY IN THE

SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS

PRE-INDUSTRIAL WINEMAKING AT MONTE BELLO LOOKS DOWN

OVER POST-INDUSTRIAL SILICON VALLEY

While no California wine region says ‘Cabernet’ like Napa,

connoisseurs, and the current writer, might argue that among

the fines texpressions of North American Cabernet to be found come

from the Santa Cruz Mountains, nearly 200 kilometers away, south

of San Francisco.

Though highly regarded for their wines since the 19 th century, the

Santa Cruz Mountains are often referred to as California wine’s great

unknowns. In spite of the region’s relative obscurity, a few producers

there have long stood out for their Cabernet, among them Mount Eden,

Kathryn Kennedy and, most famously, Ridge Vineyards.

While Ridge works vineyards in various parts of the state (in addition to

Santa Cruz, Sonoma to the north and Paso Robles to the south), its origins

are in the mountains, on a property first planted in the 1880s, 24 kilometers

from, and 400 to 800 meters above, the Pacific. That vineyard,

planted on an especially beautiful high ridge that now overlooks the

town of Cupertino (headquarters of Apple Computer), became known

as Monte Bello.

Elevation and a relatively cool, even climate due to proximity to the ocean

offer distinct conditions for growing grapes, but what makes Monte

Bello stand out is what lies underneath its topsoil: limestone. A rarity

in California’s geologically diverse soils, limestone acts as a sponge for

the rains that fall in winter and spring, offering refreshment during the

dry summer months. The combination of altitude, cool climate, soil and,

let’s not forget, California sunshine offers especially clement conditions.

Ridge’s winemakers, famously the now-retired Paul Draper and today

John Olney, have nurtured them since the late 1960s to produce wines

of elegance and balance, or as Olney puts it: “wine of power and richness

without being heavy, full and structured yet sumptuous and not

astringent,” that are distinct from the more opulent examples produced

in Napa and Sonoma to the north.

Ridge’s flagship wine, named Monte Bello after the vineyard, is a blend

30


CABERNET-SAUVIGNON

GRAPE

of traditional Bordeaux grape varieties: Cabernet

Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet

Franc. Until 1975, Monte Bello was 100% Cabernet

Sauvignon and it has remained overwhelmingly so

– 80% or greater of the blend – in most years. The

current vintage, 2022, is 86% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Cabernet was first planted on the property in the

1940s, before Ridge was established, and a small

number of those original vines remain. Of newer

plantings, so-called California “heritage” clones

that have acclimated to the state for generations

are preferred. In 2009, Ridge began the project

of certifying its vineyards as organic, although

organic was effectively practiced at Monte Bello a

decade earlier.

The approach to winemaking – “pre-industrial” as

Paul Draper puts it – has remained consistent since

his arrival in 1969 to the present day: fermentation

by native yeasts of small vineyard lots, minimal,

if any, adjuncts, limited use of sulfur dioxide and

aging in air-dried American oak (Quercus alba)

barrels – a practice nearly unique among esteemed

California Cabernet producers (Silver Oak also does

that). In creating the final blend, lots are tasted

blind, with no reference to grape variety, vineyard

plot or technical data: alcohol levels, residual sugar,

acids. “I strictly prohibit [that] at the tasting table,”

emphasizes John Olney. Remarkably, given the

tendency especially of high-end Cabernet Sauvignon

to reach alcohol levels of 14.5 percent or higher,

only one vintage (2001) of Monte Bello out of 60, has

crossed the 14 percent mark.

Ridge produces two other Cabernet-based wines:

Santa Cruz Mountain Estate and Santa Cruz Mountains.

The former is usually made from younger

vines or those from Monte Bello’s lower elevation

blocks. The latter is from grapes purchased from

local growers. Less complex than its siblings, this

wine still showcases the “uniqueness of Santa Cruz

Mountains fruit” and is best enjoyed within 10 years.

The Estate wine which shows much of the magic

Monte Bello, is more a 20-year wine, whereas

Monte Bello itself will continue to enchant for three

decades or longer. My experience two years ago with

a 1976 bottling certainly confirms that.

HARVEST AT MONTE BELLO

DAVID GATES, PAUL DRAPER, ET JOHN OLNEY


31

WHY WINES FROM SAVOY

ARE IN THE ASCENDANT

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS

PHOTOGRAPHS:

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES -

© SIRBLONDIN.COM

Cradled in the Alps and celebrated worldwide for their mountain vineyards,

the wines of Savoy enjoyed a true golden age before facing the twin challenges

of rising competition and declining consumption. Yet the Savoie appellation

remains unlike any other, with its treasure trove of 22 grape varieties – several

found nowhere else – offering constant surprises and unlimited resources. We

take a closer look at a wine region that is reinventing itself for a new era.

DOMAINE PERRIER & FILS AT THE FOOT OF MOUNT GRANIER

32


SAVOY

MARKET

STAFF AT THE CAVE DES VINS FINS DE CRUET

N

estled amidst valleys and mountains, the vineyards of Savoy literally scale

the heights. Ranking among France’s smallest, the wine region was recognised

as VDQS in 1957 and is home to three appellations: Seyssel since 1942

and Vin de Savoie and Roussette de Savoie since 1973. Production here is tightly

regulated – every wine is closely scrutinised yet also supported by robust technical

guidance. The emergence of the Alpine ski resorts in the 1960s opened up a

flourishing wine market, creating a fast-moving outlet for significant volumes.

But booming sales proved to be a double-edged sword – the wines had to be

produced quickly to meet demand from thousands of winter holidaymakers

and maturation times were reduced. Very quickly, their image became associated

with early-drinking tipples that were neither age-worthy nor suited to

fine dining. In 1992, the Winter Olympics in Albertville shone the spotlight

on the Alps and local specialities. From then on, the combination of technical

skills and singular vineyard sites led to a resurgence in quality, identity and

also the region’s distinctive varietal range. By the 2000s, these efforts were

reaping rewards, despite the fact that local typicity stood apart from the rich,

powerful, heady wines found in other parts of France. Here, style is all about

nuance, elegance and lower alcohol levels. Through precision winemaking, vigilant

oversight at every stage of the production process, a stronger communications

drive and search for new markets, the region carved out a clear strategy

to win back market shares and recognition. It wasn’t until the 2010s, though, as

consumers embraced fresher, lighter wines that Savoie finally resonated with

wider audiences, igniting a true revival in sales.


SAVOY

MARKET

CAVE DES VINS FINS DE CRUET:

A QUINTESSENTIAL VARIETAL

RANGE

YVAN BOUVET AND RODOLPHE PERRIER DURING THE HARVEST

Founded in 1939, on the eve of the Second World

War, Cave des Vins Fins de Cruet has grown

into the region’s largest co-operative winery. In

terms of metrics, the winery has 240 hectares

under vine, farmed by 70 member growers and

produces 15,000 hectolitres annually, which is

20% of total volumes. “Our wines showcase the

Savoy grape varieties Jacquère, Roussette and

Mondeuse along with older, forgotten cultivars

such as Mondeuse blanche and the rich, tannic

Persan noir”, explains the winery’s sales representative

Gaëlle Riondy-Chaisaz. “We also craft

fresh, aromatic wines from Chardonnay, Roussanne,

Gamay and Pinot noir”. The range mirrors

the region’s evolution – a steady rise in quality

and undeniable move upmarket. Savoy wines

have expanded their sales footprint beyond the

region and ski resorts. Their naturally fresh,

predominantly white profiles resonate with

today’s consumer tastes, while accessible price

points have propelled them onto both national

and international markets.

JEAN-FRANÇOIS MARÉCHAL WITH HIS TWO SONS AND PARTNERS ROMAIN AND THOMAS

DOMAINE MARÉCHAL:

MOUNTAINSIDE PASSION

Though relatively young, Domaine Maréchal has

swiftly risen to prominence, a testament to the

remarkable quality of its wines. Established in

1989 with just three hectares of vines, the estate

now encompasses a dozen or so currently in the

process of converting to organic. Jean-François

and Nathalie Maréchal, joined by their sons

Romain and Thomas, champion environmentally-friendly

vineyard management techniques

– measured treatments along with heritage and

landscape preservation. “We only showcase locally-grown

grape varieties such as Jacquère, Altesse

and Roussanne” notes Nathalie Maréchal. “They

reveal the hallmarks of Savoie whites – freshness,

minerality, finesse, a floral bouquet and

34


SAVOY

MARKET

citrus notes that many wine regions envy. For

the reds, Mondeuse brings its signature spiciness

and distinctive, appetising bitterness that wine

enthusiasts enjoy, while maintaining relatively

low alcohol levels between 11.5 and 12.5%”.

Set across rolling hills, the estate’s mosaic of

vineyards and microclimate are perfectly suited

to growing autochthonous grape varieties. Here,

technical mastery blends with an artisanal spirit

to deliver consistent quality wines down through

the vintages. “Each wine captures its vineyard

site, its culture and the passion of an artisan

winegrower”, stresses Jean-François Maréchal.

“Our appellations run the gamut in terms of

style, making them very versatile with food and

natural companions for cuisines from around the

world. We have been seeing increased interest in

France and export markets, in regions such as the

United States, Canada, Asia and Europe”.

CHATEAU DE MONTERMINOD WHICH BELONGS TO DOMAINE JEAN PERRIER & FILS

GILLES PERRIER, CHAIRMAN OF JEAN PERRIER & FILS

JEAN PERRIER ET FILS: SET

AMIDST LAKES AND MOUNTAINS

Domaine Jean-Perrier et Fils stands as an

emblem of Savoy’s winemaking heritage. Its

reputation and high standards reflect a lineage

that is both exceptional and multi-faceted. Seven

generations have handed down their knowledge

and craft since 1853. The estate’s present-day

vineyard covers 60 hectares, yielding wines that

are as acclaimed internationally as they are in

France. “We are fortunate to grow one of the

most celebrated Roussette de Savoie growths

exclusively”, explains Gilles Perrier. “Château

de Monterminod enjoys a terroir unlike any

other – steep slopes with sandy-clay soils and

low yields concentrate the fruit, while a pleasant

truffle-like note takes you by surprise”. Nestled

between lakes and mountains, the interplay of

soils and climate lend the wines their unique

traits and nobility. These qualities, combined

with the region’s singular native grape varieties,

fuel their steady growth in international

markets. The freshness and complexity of the

whites and lightness of the reds are particularly


35

CAVE DES VINS FINS DE

CRUET HAS 240 HECTARES

UNDER VINE, FARMED BY

70 MEMBER GROWERS

BORDEAUX

TRAVEL

JEAN-FRANÇOIS MARÉCHAL

IN HIS WINERY

HARVESTING GRAPES

AT DOMAINE DES

CROCS BLANCS

36

THE WINEMAKING

FACILITIES AT DOMAINE

JEAN PERRIER & FILS

prized by consumers. “With a footprint of just 2,200 hectares, the appellation

has remained a manageable size and faces no real competition”, adds Perrier.

“Annual production finds its markets without any real surplus and our stable

pricing reassures buyers. We never try to mimic our counterparts in other wine

regions – they cannot replicate the unique style of our wines. But we need to

constantly aim higher, especially in the face of climate change”.

DOMAINE DES CROCS BLANCS: TERROIR AND FINESSE

Domaine des Crocs Blancs embodies the intimate dialogue between vineyard and

mountain. It extends across the foothills of Mount Granier in the French Alps,

which peaks at 1,933 metres above sea level. Franck Masson has been a winegrower

since 1987 but in 2023 he partnered with Kevin Foucher, a health sector

executive, to craft 11 biodynamic wines from 6 hectares of vines. “Right from

the very beginning, our ethos has been rooted in terroir and vintage variation”,

recounts Foucher. “The vast majority of our wines are labelled Abymes, divided

between 80% white wines made from Jacquère, Altesse, Verdesse and Velteliner

and 20 % Pinot noir and Mondeuse-based reds. They are grown in high-altitude

sites where soil geology is the most complex”. A blend of limestone from the

Chartreuse mountain range, glacial moraine, sand and clay, the soils leave their


SAVOY

MARKET

stamp on the estate’s light, delicate, low-alcohol wines. Their minerality lends

depth and site expressiveness with a typical bitter backbone. Half of the whites

go direct-to-press whilst the other half goes through short, 3-8-day soaking.

The reds are delicate and accessible – the Mondeuse is matured in used oak

casks, whereas the Pinot noir spends time in amphorae and casks. “We have

chosen to showcase our wines under two designations”, explains Masson. “The

first features appellations such as Abymes, Apremont, AOP Roussette de Savoie

and Vin de Savoie. The second PGI Isère, which is a distinctive aspect of our

property. We also try to promote the Abymes appellation, which lacks awareness

and is often associated with a low-quality image. In a single appellation area

and with just one grape variety – though across different vineyard sites – we

can craft incredibly powerful, food-friendly wines. Our pledge to farm in a more

sustainable way – certified in January 2024 by Ecocert – enhances the appeal for

buyers. The same is true of our accessible pricing and the low alcohol content in

our wines. The whites never go above 11.5% whilst Mondeuse sits at 10.5% and

Pinot noir seldom exceeds 12.5%”.

KEVIN FOUCHER, THE JOINT OWNER OF DOMAINE DES CROCS BLANCS

38


SAVOY

MARKET

THE JACQUÈRE VARIETY ACCOUNTS FOR 60 % OF VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE MARÉCHAL

EXPORT SUCCESS

For the past fifteen years, the picture has been rosy for Savoy wines which have successfully

turned their image around. The industry now has to face climate challenges if it is to uphold

its reputation and protect sales. “The appellation is the linchpin of success”, claims Franck

Berkulès, head of communications with the Savoie wine marketing board. “It wards off any

abuse and stops people slavishly following market trends that can fluctuate significantly.

The individual vineyard blocks selected for the quality of the soil and sunshine, the varietal

range and skills honed over decades across the region create a true identity for our producers

and culminate in a natural signature style for Alpine wines. By using a range of grape varieties,

particularly native cultivars such as Jacquère, Altesse, Gringet, Mondeuse and Persan,

growers can craft countless styles of wine that align with demand for something new”. Such

stylistic variety undeniably future-proofs the region’s image, underpinned by the very fresh,

palatable profile of the wines. Overseas, the United States, Canada, Belgium, Scandinavia,

Japan and Asia in general are taking notice. “The wines are exported to over 20 countries”,

confirms Berkulès. “Recent climate-related issues have prevented us from meeting higher

demand, but international consignments have increased four-fold in a decade, rising from

2 to 8% of the total. We have global ambitions and constantly invest in consolidating our

international visibility”. High production costs due to the configuration of mountain sites

make it difficult to compete with more productive regions. So Savoy is focusing on providing

quality and excellence at reasonable prices, along with a raft of consumer-friendly traits that

sit particularly well with the current zeitgeist.


CLIMATE-FIT VINES: HOW SOUTH

AFRICAN PRODUCERS ARE PLANNING

FOR A DROUGHT-RESILIENT FUTURE

BY SAMARIE SMITH-MELETIOU, DIPWSET

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES -

© SAMARIE SMITH-MELETIOU DIPWSET

The irony of our time is that we believe it’s us who are evolving – integrating AI,

refining systems, improving what exists. Yet nature’s intelligence runs deeper,

and the vine has been perfecting survival far longer than we’ve been trying to

improve it.

AT WATERFORD THEY BELIEVE WORKING WITH NATURE IS THE ONLY SUSTAINABLE SOLUTION

40


SOUTH AFRICA

CLIMATE

FOGGY SUMMER SUNRISE OVER THE SIMONSBERG MOUNTAINS IN STELLENBOSCH

G

rapevines are desert plants by origin. Through natural selection, they’ve

learned to endure heat and scarcity – their roots finding water where none

seems to exist. Varieties such as the trusted Chenin Blanc, with the Greek grape

Assyrtiko – now central to the climate conversation – have naturally adapted to arid

conditions, producing smaller berries, thicker skins, compact canopies and tougher

leaves. Yet, in this enduring partnership between the vine’s instinct to survive and

our commitment to keep fine wine at the table, research has stepped in to refine

what nature began – matching varieties to terroirs that serve them best.

Before we can look ahead, it’s important to understand what the South African

wine industry unknowingly inherited. When settlers brought Vitis vinifera from

Europe between the 17th and 19th centuries – long before plant pathology existed

– many cuttings already carried latent viruses like leafroll and fanleaf. Harmless in

their native rootstocks, these pathogens became damaging once grafted onto vinifera

scions. When the country’s vineyards expanded throughout the 20th century,

most farmers relied on own-rooted cuttings passed down from older blocks – many

already infected. These became the foundation of mother blocks before proper

testing was introduced in the 1970s and ’80s.

Unlike Europe, South Africa’s mild winters allow mealybugs – the primary vectors

of leafroll virus – to survive year-round. Without state-funded replanting or eradication

programmes, the financial and logistical burden fell to individual producers

already navigating transformation, drought cycles and currency swings. It was

never complacency that perpetuated the problem, but the sheer cost and collaboration

required to rebuild an entire vine culture. In a turn of history, it is now French

growers who are studying South African Chenin Blanc clones as their own climate

begins to mirror the Cape’s.


SOUTH AFRICA

CLIMATE

CULTIVATING CLEAN AND

CLIMATE-FIT VINEYARDS

THIS IMAGE REFLECTS THE PLANT-MATERIAL IMPORT PROCESS AT BOSMAN ADAMA

NURSERY

BOSMAN ADAMA INTRODUCES NEW MATERIAL INTO TISSUE CULTURE, A GLOBALLY

TRUSTED, PHYTOSANITARY-SAFE METHOD

This is where Bosman Adama Nursery emerged as

a leader in safeguarding vine sustainability under

the South African Vine Improvement Scheme.

Rooted in the propagation and production of

high-quality, virus-tested plant material, the

company stands equally on innovation. Through

its Cultivar Management division, it prioritises

developing drought- and heat-resilient cultivars,

clones and rootstocks. Recent additions such as

Nero d’Avola, Assyrtiko, Xinomavro and Aglianico

reflect a forward-looking strategy. As water stress

and temperature extremes intensify, their role is

to help South African viticulture adapt – ensuring

future vineyards are clean, climate-resilient and

capable of elevating wine quality.

Wian Mouton, head of Cultivar Management at

Bosman Adama Nursery, notes that five traditional

rootstocks have long dominated South African

viticulture, but refining drought-tolerant material

remains a work in progress.

“Ramsey is still preferred for its vigour and higher

natural resistance to harmful pathogens,” he

explains, adding that several new rootstocks are

currently on trial. With vineyard re-establishment

costs reaching about R225,000 per hectare, largescale

replanting is an enormous investment.

“In terms of clonal selection and cultivar evaluation,”

Mouton continues, “early-ripening cultivars

offer significant water savings. We’re now evaluating

cultivars that can be harvested as early as late

December in the Western Cape. Imagine the water

saved by harvesting one or two months sooner.”

Bosman operates two major trial sites – at Lelienfontein

and Breeland in the Breedekloof – where

various clones and disease-resistant cultivars are

tested. A third site, planted in September 2025

in Malmesbury, showcases cultivars and clones

suited to the Swartland terroir. Together, these

sites generate critical data to compare productivity,

yield, ripeness and structure across 50 cultivars

and nearly 180 clones. Yet, as Wian admits,

advancing new drought-resilient cultivars, clones

and rootstocks from trial to commercial release

can take decades.

42


SOUTH AFRICA

CLIMATE

“We’re at a stage where we can match clone to

terroir,” says Mouton. “For instance, we offer five

Chenin clones, giving farmers options tailored to

their conditions and desired wine style.”

Innovation, he adds, extends beyond the vineyard

to the wine itself.

“It’s difficult to gauge a wine’s quality from an

experimental batch of four young vines. It can

take twenty years for a new clone to credibly

express itself in wine. Petrus Bosman brought

Nero d’Avola into the country in 2004; the first

wine came in 2014, simply labelled as Dry Red.

Only now has it begun to show what a true South

African Nero can be.”

Convincing consumers is another challenge. They

know and trust traditional varieties, and getting

them to explore new ones takes time and serious

marketing muscle.”

“We’re experimenting with several hybrid cultivars,

generally referred to as PIWI-varieties. A

semi-commercial vineyard of Souvignier Gris

will be harvested in 2026, and another vineyard

of Muscaris, expected in 2028.”

It takes many years to register a new variety; it will

be some time before these names appear on labels.

“We often hear about tons of fruit produced per

hectare, but as we look ahead and consider the real

threat to our water sources, is kilograms of fruit

produced per cubic meters of water not perhaps

the better expression of success?”

CRITICAL DATA IS COLLECTED ACROSS 50 CULTIVARS AND NEARLY 180 CLONES

GARY AND KATHY JORDAN HAVE SHAPED WINES OF PRECISION AND PLACE

SINCE 1993 – CONTINUING A LEGACY THAT BEGAN ON THIS FARM MORE

THAN THREE CENTURIES AGO

THE SCIENCE OF ADAPTATION

At the Cape Wine Trade Show in Cape Town,

September 2025, Gary Jordan of Jordan Wine

Estate presented his findings on drought-resistant

varieties. Assyrtiko, Xinomavro and Mencía

are already planted on the estate, preparing for

future water deficits and climate challenges.

“The decade from 2015 to 2024 was the warmest

in the 175-year observational record,” Jordan

shared, noting the growing frequency and intensity

of droughts and heatwaves worldwide, “with

2024 confirmed as the warmest year in history by

the World Meteorological Organisation (WMO),

followed by 2023.

“In a drier and warmer grape-growing environ-


43

IN 2019, JORDAN PLANTED SOUTH AFRICA’S FIRST ASSYRTIKO MOTHER BLOCK – A GREEK VARIETY CHOSEN FOR ITS RESILIENCE, NOW THRIVING IN

THE SOILS OF STELLENBOSCH KLOOF

ment, it’s imperative that we understand how vines respond to water stress and

plan future plantings around varieties and rootstocks that can cope,” he added.

Vines regulate water through their stomata – tiny pores on leaves that control

gas exchange. Some, known as isohydric varieties, close their stomata early to

conserve water, slowing ripening and flavour development under stress. Others,

called anisohydric, keep them open longer, sustaining photosynthesis and flavour

build-up but risking dehydration when drought becomes severe.

“Grenache behaves more like an isohydric variety, while Syrah is distinctly anisohydric,”

Jordan explains. “That’s why Syrah can maintain photosynthesis longer in dry

conditions – but eventually dehydration becomes damaging.”

Rootstocks, he believes, play a decisive role in moderating stress. Deep-rooted,

drought-tolerant stocks such as R110 and 140 Ruggeri access moisture from deeper

layers, maintaining growth where others would shut down.

“Matching scion and rootstock is key,” he says. “It’s not just about surviving

drought, but producing balanced, expressive fruit under those conditions.”

Jordan Estate is home to South Africa’s first mother block of Assyrtiko, and its 2025

release earned 90 points in the Gilbert & Gaillard tasting. The wine’s distinctive

mineral core draws a clean vertical line through every layer – its acidity taut and

vivid, balanced yet provocative in the way it holds attention. Planted on dry, windy,

north-facing slopes overlooking the sea, this ancient variety is, in Jordan’s words,

“a love letter from the Mediterranean,” capturing both place and pioneering spirit

as the estate moves toward a regenerative future.

44


SOUTH AFRICA

CLIMATE

THE PRODUCERS’ RESPONSE

WATERFORD OFFERS A GUIDED WINE DRIVE SAFARI TOUR OF THEIR VINEYARDS

Changes in grapevine phenology – from budburst

and flowering to ripening and compressed harvest

windows – are among the clearest signs of a

warming planet. These shifts alter the balance of

ripeness, acidity and style, compelling winemakers

to adapt mindfully to safeguard both vineyard

longevity and brand equity.

On the Helderberg, that balance begins in the soil.

“All the Cape’s wine regions within roughly

150 kilometres of the ocean fall within what we

call the Cape Super Group,” explains Mark Le

Roux, cellar master at Waterford Estate. “These

were formed when the world’s landmasses pushed

against Africa, folding its surface like a giant wrap

– that’s where our diversity comes from.”

He outlines two broad soil families: the Table

Mountain Group’s rocky sandstones higher up

the slopes, and the Cape Granite and Malmesbury

Group’s heavier clays and granitic materials lower

down. “From the ocean side, you can actually see

the geological waves,” he says.

The Helderberg’s link to the Hottentots Holland

range provides a steady water supply through

tributaries and fast-draining slopes. “We’re lucky,”

says Le Roux. “Even though our soils drain quickly,

deep-lying clays hold enough moisture to sustain

vines. During short heatwaves, we might irrigate

just to move water through the plants.”

Reflecting on the recent droughts, he adds: “What

we saw was remarkable. The deeper clays didn’t

saturate like they used to, so the vines pushed

roots further down – adapting to survive.”

With Chenin and Grenache thriving under tough

conditions, Waterford’s results speak for themselves:

the 2024 Chenin Blanc scored 94 points,

and the 2022 Grenache 91 points – showing superb

tension and ageing promise.

“Chenin’s gnarly trunks, with their thick bark as

natural sunblock, protect the wood, while firm

skins prevent raisined flavours,” says Le Roux.

“Grenache matures slowly, building resistance,

with fewer active leaves at peak ripeness, creating

less surface area for water loss through

evaporation”.

Long-term initiatives now focus on soil vitality.

“We keep cover crops longer, let cattle graze to

CELLAR MASTER MARK LE ROUX AND

WINEMAKER JAMIE PAPENFUS


45

AN OPEN LAND ROVER TAKES

GUESTS THROUGH

THE VINEYARDS AT JORDAN –

OFFERING A 360° VIEW OF

THE FARM, ITS CONTOURS,

AND THE STORIES ROOTED

IN THE LAND

BORDEAUX

TRAVEL

WINEMAKER JAMIE PAPENFUS

HAS BEEN A PART OF THE

WATERFORD TEAM FOR 10 YEARS

PERDEBERG CELLAR, NESTLED

IN THE DRYLAND HEART OF THE

VOOR-PAARDEBERG

46

SOUTH AFRICA

CLIMATE

stimulate soil microbes, and use drone-assisted

monitoring,” he explains.

Still, he believes the Helderberg’s natural assets

remain invaluable, with the constant flow of

mountain water and ocean breezes helping to

retain the freshness that defines their wines.

“Data is useful, but it’s only one snapshot. Experience

is the real measure. Sixteen years in, and

I’m only starting to feel some control.”

For Le Roux, the lesson is simple: it’s about

patience and observation, not pressure and expectation.

“It takes time,” he says. “The most suitable varieties,

thriving in the right soils, will always make

the superior wines.”

Riaan Möller, head winemaker at Lievland

Vineyards in Stellenbosch, also considers Chenin

Blanc one of South Africa’s true climate heroes.

“Especially old-vine Chenin,” he says, “known

for its deep roots under dryland conditions. Our

Chenin grows mainly on shale soils, anchored

deep into the earth.”

Balancing vine adaptation with estate style is a

tightrope act.

“We test new clones, adjust canopy management,

explore alternative pruning methods and monitor

leaf-water potential – but the wines must still

deliver their trademark aromatics and texture,”

Möller explains. Both the Lievland Old Vine

Chenin Blanc 2025 (91 points) and Lievland Rosé

2025 (a blend of Shiraz, Mourvèdre and Cinsaut

that scored 90 points) reflect that precision – the

Chenin vibrant and poised, the Rosé bright with

red fruit and balance.

In Paarl’s Paardeberg foothills, Perdeberg Cellar

has made dryland character its hallmark. Albertus

Louw, Production Manager for the group, believes

Grenache Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Grenache

Noir’s suitability to dryland conditions goes hand

in hand with soil. The first two, he notes, tend to

ripen earlier on sandstone and granite, producing

lighter, fresher styles, while Grenache Noir, a later

ripener, performs better on heavier soils.

“All our Grenache is dryland, and 50% of our

Chenin” he notes. “We prune and manage canopy

carefully – early shoot removal ensures vines don’t

demand extra water.”

The team has moved from tilling to rolling cover

WINEMAKER RIAAN MÖLLER AND VITICULTURIST THEUNIS BELL

ASSISTANT WINEMAKER TOM LENNON

AND WINEMAKER RIAAN MÖLLER


47

TEAM PERDEBERG –

THE PEOPLE BEHIND

THE WINES

crops into mulch, creating a dry bed that retains moisture. Thermal mapping helps it assess

site-specific variations across blocks.

“Chenin will always be our signature,” says Louw, “but Grenache Blanc is definitely a white

variety of the future. Grenache Noir is steadily replacing Cinsaut and producing lighter, chillable

reds in growing demand internationally.”

Perdeberg’s Dryland Collection Chenin Blanc 2024 earned 93 points, their Vineyard Collection

Grenache Blanc following with 90 points.

For Survivor Wines, the Swartland’s drought cycles have reinforced a philosophy of minimal

intervention and site-specific precision.

“Building organic matter in healthy soil is our greatest reservoir against drought,” says Pierre

Wahl, a winemaker well-versed in sun-drenched regions.

“Dry-farming is at the heart of Survivor’s identity – expressing the land truthfully while protecting

its vitality.”

Smaller canopies provide dappled light, balanced crops encourage even ripening, and earlier

harvests preserve freshness without sacrificing concentration.

“When nature gives you thicker skins, extract more gently,” Wahl adds. “In dry years, we use

whole-berry pressing and minimal skin contact to capture purity.”

The Grenache Rosé 2024 shows their philosophy with its tactile quality in the glass: fine chalky

texture, vivid red-fruit purity, and a dry, savoury finish.

While also running trials with drought-tolerant rootstocks, they want Survivor to stand as

a testament to South Africa’s ability to thrive under challenge.

“True sustainability isn’t about doing less; it’s about working in harmony with nature to

achieve more.”

While drought defines much of South Africa’s inland viticulture, along the southernmost tip

of Africa another force shapes survival: the wind.

At Strandveld Vineyards near Elim, the challenge isn’t heat per se but constant exposure to

relentless gusts that test the vines differently.

Over two decades, winemaker Conrad Vlok has recorded average growing-season temperatures

of just 20.5°C, allowing slower ripening and remarkable colour stability. Here, veraison

typically begins in mid-January, with varieties like Syrah harvested almost two months later.

“Unlike warmer regions, our extended ripening doesn’t lead to overt fruitiness,” he says. “It

gives us a more savoury, peppery Syrah with lavender and violet notes.” The Strandveld Syrah

48


SOUTH AFRICA

CLIMATE

2022 earned 92 points for precisely that restraint.

Wind is both ally and adversary, with recorded

speeds exceeding four metres per second for more

than 200 hours in some months. The vines respond

by briefly shutting down to conserve moisture,

extending hang time and slowing ripening.

“We plant rows east–west to reduce damage and

create calmer microclimates within the canopy,”

Vlok notes. “Still, Syrah’s delicate canopy suffers.

Salt-laden air, though visually damaging through

salt burn, leads to smaller berries and thicker

skins, enhancing phenolic ripeness. The wind acts

like natural air-conditioning – it slows everything

down.”

Beneath the vineyard surface lie layers of ferricrete,

sandstone and quartzite, resting above ancient

riverbeds and weathered shale – subsoils pale as

chalk and rich in minerals. They form the foundation

for wines with naturally low pH and vibrant

acidity, needing little, if any, adjustment.

“The freshness and tension in our wines come from

this combination of cool climate and unique soils,”

says Vlok – proof that even at the edge of the continent,

vines will always find a way to survive.

CONRAD VLOK HAS BEEN THE CELLARMASTER AT STRANDVELD SINCE 2004

STILLNESS BEFORE THE WIND – A FOG-DRAPED MORNING AT STRANDVELD

LOOKING AHEAD

What’s unfolding in South Africa is not an isolated

story – the winelands of the world are being called

to think more critically about rootstocks and

varieties fit for the future. If marketed wisely,

consumers will be eager to explore something new

when names like Souvignier Gris and Arinarnoa

begin to share shelf space with Sauvignon Blanc

and Merlot.

Chenin Blanc continues to stand as the steadfast

anchor of South Africa’s viticultural identity,

with Grenache Noir rising as its red counterpart.

Across the Cape, each producer, in their own

landscape, is learning to listen more closely to

the land. Nature will adapt if we allow it – and

the message of regenerative viticulture need not

be confined to farming but expressed through

flavour, restraint and authenticity.

Perhaps the true measure of fine wine in the years

to come won’t lie in its price or prestige, but in

how thoughtfully it tells the story of survival.


49

BOURGOGNE – A TREASURE

TROVE OF TALENT AND TASTE

BY CAMILLE BERNARD

PHOTOGRAPHS:

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES,

©BIVB A. IBANEZ, S. BOULARD

While Burgundy’s fame rests on a handful of celebrated names, the numbers tell

a different story. Of the region’s 84 AOCs, the regional appellation alone covers

nearly 50% of bearing acreage and 53% of volumes. It is this sheer magnitude

that makes the ‘Bourgogne’ appellation – and its iterations – a true treasure

trove of accessible wines from every corner of the region.

NATHALIE BERNARD AND SÉBASTIEN FOSSIER ARE THE FIFTH-GENERATION CUSTODIANS OF BADER MIMEUR IN CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET

50


BURGUNDY

APPELLATION

THE BURGUNDY WINE REGION EMBRACES OVER 28,000 HECTARES

AOC Bourgogne has been a protected appellation since 1937, theoretically spanning the

full sweep of Burgundy. In practice, though, these wines come from vineyards which, for

various reasons, do not qualify for ‘villages’ or Premier Cru status. With higher permitted yields,

slightly different soil profiles and sites located at the foot of the slopes, the criteria that define

their boundaries have actually created a curious paradox: in Chablis and the Côte Chalonnaise,

some Bourgogne-classified vineyards sit directly alongside Chablis or ‘villages’ plots. In the glass,

the line between them can be incredibly fine.

For growers, the equation grows even more intricate. The wines must remain affordable yet as

Burgundy’s gateway wines for many drinkers, they cannot afford to disappoint. And the recent

context certainly hasn’t helped: after the generous 2022 and 2023 harvests, the 2024 vintage delivered

one of the smallest crops in fifteen years, immediately sending bulk transactions tumbling

(-36.6% on 2024). More comfortable stocks heading into the summer of 2025 eased some of the

pressure slightly, but the potential of the following vintage once again fell short of expectations.

Even so, the market is still headed north. At home and abroad, AOC Bourgogne wines – especially

the whites and Crémants – are posting strong growth. Their momentum raises an important

question though: in a region defined by its strict hierarchy, how do these wines secure their

place alongside the revered villages and Grands Crus? To explore the answer, we surveyed five

producers who navigate this challenge every day.

BADER MIMEUR:

DECONSTRUCTING THE IMAGE OF INACCESSIBLE BURGUNDY

Since the 17 th century, Domaine Bader Mimeur in Chassagne-Montrachet has been stewarding

an exceptional heritage – virtually all of Château de Chassagne-Montrachet’s vines, a rarity in

the Côte de Beaune.


NATHALIE BERNARD AND SÉBASTIEN FOSSIER,

THE NEW GENERATION AT DOMAINE BADER MIMEUR

THE ESTATE FARMS 5 HECTARES OF VINES IN AOC CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET

In 2020, fifth-generation custodians Nathalie Bernard and Sébastien Fossier took the reins of

this historic property. Today, the estate spans 8 hectares, covering not only the expected Chassagne-Montrachet

vineyards, but also Saint-Aubin Premier Cru as well as Bourgogne Chardonnay,

Bourgogne Pinot noir and even Bourgogne Aligoté.

Nathalie’s approach sets her apart from other producers: “Burgundy carries an image of unaffordable

wines – and that’s what I’m trying to deconstruct. Burgundy shouldn’t be defined solely by its

prohibitively priced bottlings when half of total production comes under the regional appellation”.

On the estate, the different vineyard blocks are treated the same. “Our vineyard management techniques

for AOC Bourgogne are exactly the same as for our Chassagne-Montrachet. The only thing

that changes is the yield”.

One detail though stands out: the ‘Dessous les Mues’ climat is stated on the labels of the Bourgogne

Chardonnay and Bourgogne Pinot noir wines. “This climat is located within the village of Chassagne-Montrachet”,

Bernard points out. Unsurprisingly, the wines bear an uncanny resemblance

to their more illustrious counterparts. “These are wines to enjoy and they perform particularly well

in export markets. But their boutique scale – half a hectare per colour – means we simply cannot

meet all the demand”, she concludes.

CHANSON: BREATHING WITH BOTH LUNGS

Domaine Chanson holds a special place in the Burgundy landscape. This historic company, which

has focused on prime vineyard sites since 1750 and belonged to Bollinger since 1999, is one of the

leading landowners in the Beaune appellation, standing alongside the storied Hospices de Beaune.

52


ALL CHANSON WINES ARE MATURED IN THE ESTATE’S

BASTION

CHANSON IS A TIME-HONOURED COMPANY

Boasting 43 hectares of organically-certified vines in the Côte de Beaune, Chanson has long earned

its reputation across some of Burgundy’s finest climats.

In 2023, however, the estate reached a pivotal turning point. Its acquisition of 45 hectares in the

Côte Chalonnaise – primarily in Mercurey and Rully and now undergoing conversion to organic –

both strengthened its vineyard base and considerably widened its scope. “Expanding into the Côte

Chalonnaise allows Chanson to breathe with both lungs”, says managing director Thierry Berger.

The addition of these Côte Chalonnaise vine yards enables it to build a more robust portfolio of high

quality regional appellations: 1.7 hectares of Chardonnay, 4 hectares of Pinot noir and 1.2 hectares of

Aligoté, mainly situated around Mercurey with some vines near Chassagne-Montrachet. “We have

a long history of producing AOC Bourgogne wines”, stresses Berger.

Partially matured in barrels in the Bastion – the estate’s historic cellar – the Bourgogne Pinot noir,

Bourgogne Chardonnay and Bourgogne Aligoté display remarkable quality – proof that a top

producer can combine prestige and accessibility without compromising on excellence.

“Diversifying across several appellations is a conscious choice – one that shapes our image while

allowing for range segmentation. Today, we are delighted to return to the market with a renewed

narrative and new range of wines”, Berger concludes.

CAMILLE AND LAURENT SCHALLER:

PINOT NOIR IN THE VINEYARDS OF CHABLIS!

In the heart of Préhy, a small village in the Chablis region, Laurent Schaller and his son Camille

farm around twenty hectares under vine.

Préhy holds a unique distinction: it is the only village in Chablis entitled to produce wines under


BADER MIMEUR USES

EXACTLY THE SAME

VINEYARD MANAGEMENT

TECHNIQUES ACROSS ALL

APPELLATIONS

BORDEAUX

TRAVEL

THE COMPANY MARKETS

A RANGE OF QUALITY

REGIONAL APPELLATIONS

PRÉHY IS THE ONLY

VILLAGE IN CHABLIS THAT

IS ELIGIBLE FOR THE

REGIONAL APPELLATION

54

BURGUNDY

APPELLATION

the regional Bourgogne appellation. Their vineyard

blocks span Chablis, Petit Chablis, Premiers Crus

Vaucoupin and Vau de Vey, along with Bourgogne

Chardonnay, Pinot noir and Aligoté. The regional

wines have rapidly become an essential pillar of the

estate’s portfolio.

Among them is a “Bourgogne Aligoté produced

from vines that are over thirty years’ old”, says

Camille Schaller with pride – an impressive age for

a grape variety that drew little attention just fifteen

years ago, he adds.

Bourgogne Chardonnay – a more recent addition

– “got off to a roaring start in France and abroad”,

he comments. But the breakout star is the Pinot

noir. First produced in 2020, it has swiftly found

its audience. “These are wines for pleasure, easy

to drink and easy to sell”. Their immediate appeal

chimes perfectly with consumers looking for appetising

wines offering instant gratification.

In the vineyard, every vine receives the same care

and attention, regardless of status. “Wherever

possible, we avoid using plant protection products,

favour tillage and work with organic fertilisers”.

Today, 75% of the estate’s total production is

shipped overseas but Schaller remains realistic:

“If I hadn’t had AOC Chablis wines, I would have

struggled to sell my AOC Bourgogne wines. We are

known primarily for our Chablis and that reputation

builds trust in the quality of our regional appellation

wines”.

CAMILLE AND LAURENT SCHALLER, WINEGROWERS FROM FATHER TO SON

DOMAINE DE LA CÔTE DE FASSE HISTORICALLY

SPECIALISED IN CHABLIS

DOMAINE DE LA CÔTE DE FASSE:

DIVERSIFICATION AS A STRATEGY

In the village of Beine, just outside Chablis, the

Gagnepain family has reverted to diversifying its

appellation range. Founded in 1991 by Françoise

Gagnepain and two of her children – Laurent and

Isabelle – Domaine de la Côte de Fasse long focused

on Chardonnay, producing AOC Chablis and Petit

Chablis wines. That focus began to shift in 2016

with the arrival of Paul, Laurent’s son. “Paul’s arrival

triggered a diversification of our portfolio”, explains

Isabelle Gagnepain. “The estate began to grow again

and so did the range”.


55

THE GAGNEPAIN FAMILY IN THE WINERY AT DOMAINE DE LA CÔTE DE FASSE

A key milestone came in 2018 when a block of Pinot noir vines was planted in the ‘Les Veaux’

climat. The 0.42-hectare plot now produces two wines – a fruity Bourgogne rosé designed for

early drinking and a red Bourgogne that is fresh, characterful and structured – versatile enough

for summer barbecues, red meats and mature cheeses. “Admittedly, the quantities remain small but

they enable us to enter a high-growth segment, particularly in export markets”, says Gagnepain,

who couldn’t be more pleased with the development.

DOMAINE DES CHAUCHOUX:

“AOC BOURGOGNE IS NOT OUR PRIORITY”

In Rully, in the Côte Chalonnaise, Domaine des Chauchoux is the very definition of continuity

– its winemaking story began in the 1920s. Today, Christian Belleville and his children Jean-Michel

and Emilie – representing the fourth generation – farm 20 hectares of vines, crafting and

maturing them in the vaulted cellars built in 1826.

Domaine des Chauchoux emerged from the gradual merger of Domaines Manigley and Belleville,

establishing its reputation through its AOC Rully wines. The link is so strong that when

asked about his regional appellation wines, Christian Belleville’s response is disarmingly direct:

“My customers don’t come to me for the Bourgogne appellation – they come for my Rully, especially

the Les Chauchoux label. That’s my benchmark, my medal-winning wine”.

He continues: “AOC Bourgogne wines are not my priority. In my opinion, the regional appellation

is struggling”.

His words capture the challenge facing regional appellations in a wine region defined by such

a strict hierarchy, even within a fairly low-profile appellation like Rully. At Domaine des Chau-

56


LÉGENDES

THE BELLEVILLE FAMILY, OWNERS OF DOMAINE DES CHAUCHOUX

CHAUCHOUX HAS BUILT ITS REPUTATION ON ITS AOC

RULLY WINES

choux, once again, the vines destined for regional appellation wines are not treated any differently

to those allocated to the estate’s Premiers Crus and growths. Yet, while many producers

grapple with how to position their regional appellation labels alongside higher-end bottlings,

for the Belleville family, Rully remains the natural – and unquestioned – priority.

AOC BOURGOGNE:

THE FOUNDATION STONE OF BURGUNDY WINES

From Chassagne to Rully and from Beine to Préhy, Bourgogne is a multi-faceted regional appellation,

far removed from the clichés that often cling to it. The generic Bourgogne appellation is

anything but a ‘by-product’; it is a foundation stone – technical, economic and symbolic – upon

which the entire Burgundy edifice rests. It covers half the region’s vineyard acreage, permeates

the identity of its wine companies and carries Burgundy’s message across the globe. If its

mission had to be distilled, it would be this: an extraordinary reservoir of talent, experimentation

and transmission. Yet for all its substance, the category still needs greater visibility among

consumers. Ongoing initiatives by the Burgundy wine producers’ organisation – such as specific

production rules including those for Côte d’Or – aim to sharpen segmentation and in turn,

understanding. What the regional Bourgogne appellation sometimes lacks is recognition. At a

time when the prestigious growths are soaring to ever more inaccessible heights, these wines

serve as Burgundy’s true entry point – accessible but never bland, approachable yet far from

simplistic. They remain, in every sense, the gateway into the world of Burgundy.


LUGANA DOC

AND ITS WORLD-CLASS WINES

BY SYLVAIN PATARD

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES

The appellation stretches across the southern reaches of Lake Garda and is

the cradle of Turbiana, a native grape variety known locally as Trebbiano

di Lugana. Distinct from Trebbiano Toscano and other common Trebbiano

varieties, Turbiana is genetically unique and capable of producing more

structured, mineral and age-worthy wines. We travelled to the region to witness

this first-hand.

CÀ MAIOL’S WINERY, A STONE’S THROW FROM LAKE GARDA

58


ITALY

APPELLATION

LAKE GARDA FORMS LUGANA DOC’S NATURAL NORTHERN BORDER

Rightly beginning where credit is due, our first stop is in Peschiera del Garda where we meet Fabio

Zenato of Le Morette. Zenato, who also chairs the Corsorzio Lugana, offers us an introduction to

the appellation, its wines and its structure.

“Lugana is one of Italy’s most historic appellations”, says Zenato. “Located on the southern shores of

Lake Garda – with the lake itself marking our natural border to the north – the appellation was officially

recognised in 1967, making it one of the country’s earliest DOCs. The Lugana DOC spans two regions

– Lombardy and Veneto – and encompasses five villages: Peschiera del Garda, Sirmione, Desenzano

del Garda, Pozzolengo and Lonato del Garda. The present-day appellation covers between 2,550 and

2,600 hectares and the Consorzio counts around 220 members.

Lugana is mostly structured around family-run estates, often in their second or third generation. This

continuity is what lends our region its strong identity and a shared sense of purpose – preserving the

typicity of Turbiana and the singular character of our soils”.

LE MORETTE: WHERE IT ALL BEGAN WITH A ROOT

Every estate begins with a story, and Le Morette’s quite literally starts with a root. In the 1960s, along

the banks of Laghetto del Frassino, Gino Zenato surveyed the land, turning over the clay-rich clods of

earth and listening as the wind swept down from Lake Garda. Long before he imagined making wine,

he planted a few cuttings. He nurtured them and watched them grow, as one would a child. In that

simple gesture lay the first seeds of Le Morette.

By the 1980s, his son Valerio sensed that the region could push the boundaries further – that Turbiana

had new paths to explore, and a minerality waiting to be expressed. The message from the vineyard

was clear, and Valerio chose to become its voice. He crafted the first wines that would ultimately place

Le Morette among the iconic names of Lugana.

Today, third-generation brothers Fabio and Paulo carry this same vibrant energy forward. Fabio

represents the estate far beyond the shores of Lake Garda, from the United States to Asia, with the


ITALY

APPELLATION

FABIO ZENATO, CHAIRMAN OF THE CONSORZIO LUGANA AND

OWNER OF LE MORETTE

quiet determination and pride of someone deeply

rooted in the value of his land. Paolo, meanwhile,

speaks another language – that of the soil. Every

morning, he listens to his vines so that he can further

his research into Turbiana. His clonal selection

work is, in essence, an act of devotion – an effort to

preserve the grape’s integrity for future generations.

Set among the estate’s vineyards, the new cantina

– officially opened a decade ago – seems to have

emerged naturally from its surroundings. Partially

buried to allow gravity-flow operations, designed to

breathe with the soil and built with the bricks fired

in the ancient Lugana kilns, it perfectly embodies the

Zenato ethos: innovate but never betray your roots.

CA’ DEI FRATI: A HERITAGE

BRAND TURNED HIGH-END

LUGANA CORNERSTONE

THE INCREDIBLE ARCHITECTURE AT CA DEI FRATI WAS INSPIRED BY RELIGION

It is rare to find a single estate that so fully encapsulates

the history, evolution and international rise of

an appellation. Ca’ dei Frati is one of them. Founded

in 1939 – but rooted in a vineyard first mentioned in

1782 – the Dal Cero family has, in just a few decades,

transformed it from a modest farm into a Lugana

benchmark and a strategic force in the Lombardy

market.

The journey begins in Lugana di Sirmione where

Felice Dal Cero established the estate’s first facilities.

In the 1960s, his son Pietro recognised the quality

potential of Turbiana on these clay-limestone soils

bordering the lake. In 1967, he became one of the

signatories of the inaugural production regulations

for Lugana DOC. As an early-adopter, Ca’ dei Frati

not only emerged as a producer, but also one of the

architects of the appellation’s modern identity.

The transition from bulk wine to bottling in 1969

led to the creation of ‘I Frati’ Lugana, the estate’s

flagship label. To this day, the wine stands out

among professionals for its fresh, saline character, its

reliable consistency from vintage to vintage and its

often-underestimated ability to age. The Brolettino

Lugana DOC, a fuller and structured expression, also

deserves recognition for its excellent performance on

fine-dining tables.

The estate’s success hinges on a clearly identifiable

style, coherent pricing and an ability to deliver both

volume and consistency – key assets for distributors.

60


EXPORT MANAGER STEFANO FIORANZATO, SANDRA SIRVENTE, THE DAL CERO

FAMILY AND SYLVAIN PATARD, FOR THE OFFICIAL PRESENTATION OF THE

GILBERT & GAILLARD INTERNATIONAL CHALLENGE DIPLOMA

IGINO, GIAN FRANCO AND ANNA MARIA, NOW RUN THE

COMPANY WITH THE SAME PASSION AND DETERMINATION

Today, the estate is run by the third generation of the Dal Cero family. Igino is the custodian of its strategic

vision and quality; Gian Franco manages vineyard operations; and Anna Maria directs the estate’s administration

and customer relations. They are supported by a loyal team, including winemaker Carlo whose

precision-driven approach encompasses hand harvesting, single-vineyard fermentations, meticulous

blending and fine-tuning the style to market expectations.

The estate’s philosophy is centred on preserving aromatic integrity, ensuring longevity and instilling the

wine with a distinctive mineral stamp – the powerful signature of Lugana.

PERLA DEL GARDA: RESTORING VINEYARDS AND SHOWCASING

GLACIAL MORAINE SOILS

Some estates are born from a deep-rooted conviction – that the land remembers its past achievements.

Perla del Garda belongs to this rare category. Founded by the Prandini family, whose farming history

stretches from the Verona region to the hills of Lonato del Garda, the estate is built on a simple yet ambitious

principle: to return vines to the place where they once thrived. The project was guided by ancient land

registry maps and historic engravings which attest to the winegrowing vocation of these sparsely irrigated

soils strewn with stones and shaped by glacial moraines.

The family’s project is rooted in bold choices, all of which have proven sound: wine begins in the vineyard;

no vintage can be approached with a one-size-fits-all or formulaic strategy; harvesting is entirely conducted

by hand from August through November; and the winery has been designed across three levels to enable

gravity flow thereby protecting the integrity of the fruit. The architecture is not an aesthetic flourish but

a near-sensual response to the natural movement of wine. Everything flows downwards, as though the

building were designed to guide the grapes rather than coerce them.

In Lonato – between Desenzano and Sirmione – the 43 hectares of vines dedicated to Lugana and Garda

DOP unfurl across the moraine hillsides to the south of Lake Garda. This singular stony terroir offering


GIOVANNA PRANDINI SKILFULLY RUNS THIS ICONIC COMPANY

THIS STATE-OF-THE-ART WINERY IS DESIGNED SO THAT THE GRAPES

THEN THE JUICE CAN BE NURTURED TO PRODUCE FINE WINES

good drainage yet low water reserves has the remarkable ability to draw out expression and minerality. As the

ultimate testament to the estate’s natural abundance, it is one of the rare –perhaps the only estate – to offer

an interpretation of the five styles permitted within the appellation: Lugana DOC, Lugana Superiore, Lugana

Riserva, Lugana Vendemmia Tardiva and Lugana Spumante. And that’s an achievement for which it fully

deserves recognition.

TENUTA ROVEGLIA:

STATURE, HERITAGE AND SUSTAINABILITY IN THE HEART OF LUGANA

A little farther south lies an estate which quietly shapes the landscape. Boasting more than a century of history

and nearly 100 hectares of bearing vineyards, Tenuta Roveglia ranks among the appellation’s largest properties.

It is firmly anchored in Pozzolengo, between Lake Garda and the rolling moraine hills.

The name ‘Roveglia’ first appeared in 1404 when the Roveglio family acquired land and farmsteads from San

Salvatore de Brescia monastery. The estate’s more recent winegrowing chapter began centuries later – at the

end of the 19 th century – when Swiss entrepreneur Federico Zweifel fell in love with Lake Garda and began

purchasing land for vineyards. His son Giusto carried this legacy forward, initially crafting wines for a small

circle of local customers.

The real transformation came in the 1980s when scientist and academic Giovanni Felice Azzone introduced

research-driven methods and technical innovation to the estate.

Under his guidance, viticulture and winemaking entered a new era – more modern, more precise and firmly

focused on quality.

Today, Tenuta Roveglia is led by the family’s fourth generation – Sara, Vanessa and Babettli Azzone. Annual

production is in the range of 800,000 bottles, allowing the estate to secure a robust presence in international

markets while ensuring rigorous quality control.

A common thread is woven through all of its wines: freshness, distinctive minerality and a confident structure

– traits derived from the clay-limestone glacial soils and the mild microclimate tempered by the lake. Tenuta

Roveglia doesn’t pay lip service to sustainability – it is embedded in the estate’s practices across the three main

62


HOSPITALITY MANAGER LEONARDO POSES PROUDLY WITH THE WINES AND

THE DIPLOMA AWARDED BY THE GILBERT & GAILLARD INTERNATIONAL

CHALLENGE

AT FAMIGLIA OLIVINI, PURITY IS NOT BORN IN THE TANKS BUT IN THE VINEYARDS

pillars that are economic, environmental and social sustainability. It has been awarded Equalitas – Sustainable

Organisation certification, including carbon footprint and water management metrics.

In the vineyard, this commitment takes shape through permanent grass cover; a tight rein and reduction in

the use of plant protection products; and conservation of nature zones to promote biodiversity.

In the winery and on the bottling line, reducing water and energy usage is prioritised, processes are optimised

and recyclable, FSC-certified packaging is used.

Due to its long-standing history, its extensive vineyard holdings, its technical proficiency and certified sustainability,

Tenuta Roveglia holds a strategic position in Lugana and Garda DOC. The estate has successfully

reconciled volume with identity by delivering coherent, expressive wines with the ability to represent the appellation,

even in the most demanding markets.

Tenuta Roveglia encompasses ancient land, a visionary family and a promise upheld: to craft Lugana wines

that can stand the test of time.

FAMIGLIA OLIVINI: INTUITION, PRECISION AND SUSTAINABLE FARMING

Some estates are content simply to produce wine, while others seek to interpret a legacy. Famiglia Olivini

unmistakably belongs to the latter. What began in the 1970s as a Brescia entrepreneur’s passion for the countryside

has gradually evolved from a farming ‘hobby’ to a rigorous, fully structured project now led by the younger

generation – Giorgio, Giordana and Giovanni.

The philosophy here is straightforward: intervene as little as possible, understand as deeply as possible. At its

core lies a commitment to sustainable farming, a principle instilled by founder Giuseppe Olivini, and formalised

as a patented brand in 2018 to coincide with the official opening of the new winery in Demesse Vecchie.

The principle entails reducing and precisely targeting plant protection treatments; preserving soil and vine

health; avoiding needless chemical inputs; and using technology to recreate ideal conditions for storing and

stabilising the wines. For the Olivini family, purity does not start in the tank but in the vineyard. Over the years,

the family has transformed its vineyards into a genuine genetic heritage to be protected and refined. Rooted

in Lugana’s oldest sites, the finest vines have been selected for their aromatic expression and balanced acidity


FOR THE PASINI FAMILY, LAND TAKES PRECEDENCE OVER EVERYTHING

ELSE, AND WINE SHOULD BE ITS FAITHFUL EXTENSION

PAULO PASINI WITH HIS BUSOCALDO RISERVA 2020,

AWARDED 92 POINTS OUT OF 100 IN THE GILBERT & GAILLARD

INTERNATIONAL CHALLENGE TASTINGS

and freshness. The most exceptional gems within this plant material have been grafted to establish

new plantings, ensuring this precious varietal stock is safeguarded and optimised in the future.

One of the family’s boldest decisions was to craft a Metodo Classico from Turbiana – a choice that

ran counter to conventional wisdom at the time. Yet year after year, both the market and critics have

endorsed this instinct, ranking their Lugana Brut among Italy’s leading examples of the style. The

estate also produces stunning Lugana DOC sparkling wines.

Olivini’s approach is intentionally uncompromising: to vinify historic varieties in the purest expression

possible while reinterpreting them in a distinctly modern lens.

PASINI SAN GIOVANNI: A FAMILY, LAND AND CONVICTION

In San Benedetto di Lugana, along the southern shores of Lake Garda, the Pasini San Giovanni

family cultivates vines deeply rooted in clay shaped by ancient glaciers – soils that allow Turbiana

to express its most authentic character. What began modestly in 1958 is now, three generations

later, led with the same resolve by Laura, Sara, Luca and Paolo.

The vines have been farmed organically since 2014. Even earlier, in 2009, the estate calculated its

carbon footprint – long before such practices became market requirements. Biodiversity is treated

as an essential tool: olive groves, flowers, natural hedgerows, native species and beehives shape a

living landscape that is both balanced and protective.

For the Pasini family, land takes precedence over everything else, and wine should be its faithful

extension. This is why the family dedicates exclusive parcels to the land in San Benedetto and

Desenzano. To them, Lugana is not a passing fashion – it is a wine that unites instant harmony

with serene evolution, two qualities rarely found together in a white wine.

Paolo Pasini knows the grape both as a winegrower and as a member of the Consorzio. He explains:

“Lugana has a natural ability to remain vibrant, structured and balanced down through the years”.

This belief has shaped some of the estate’s most iconic wines, crafted through meticulous craftsmanship.

For Pasini San Giovanni, this is proof that Lugana should not merely please, it must

withstand the test of time and remain an honest, structured wine that stays true to its origins.

64


FRANCESCO RIGHETTTI PROUDLY SHOWS

OFF HIS WINE AWARDED BY THE GILBERT &

GAILLARD INTERNATIONAL CHALLENGE

THE JOYFUL 2019 GRAPE HARVEST AT MONTECI

MONTECI: A FAMILY STORY DATING BACK A CENTURY

At some estates, the family story is not merely told – it is embedded in every decision. Monteci – the

historic moniker of the Righetti family – belongs to a long line of estates where winemaking is far

more than a profession, it is an unbroken thread of continuity.

This story begins in 1925 when the family founded a farm in the Verona area. At the time, mixed

farming was the norm – fruit trees, livestock and vines all shared the land. Over the decades, however,

the vineyard gradually took centre stage. Today, the fifth generation – Andrea, Michele, Lara, Giulia

and Davide Righetti – carries the mission forward with a collective energy seldom seen.

Since 2018, all Monteci vineyards – including those located along the southern shores of Lake Garda

– have been farmed and certified organic. The gradual transition was deliberate and thoughtful, reflecting

the family’s vision: to craft wines with an uncompromising sense of place. Monteci’s Lugana

vineyards sit along the appellation’s classic mid-line between Peschiera and Desenzano, where clay

soils dominate the landscape. These are the blocks where the estate produces its Lugana DOC Biologico.

Monteci’s intention is not to reinvent the identity of Lugana – instead, the family seeks to offer

an honest, structured interpretation of the appellation that honours its origins. It is a Lugana that

fully embraces its moraine roots, its lakeside environment and Turbiana’s distinctive character. At

Monteci, a century-old legacy meets a Lugana that looks confidently towards the horizon, yet never

strays from its native land.

CÀ MAIOL: THE ORIGINAL ELEGANCE OF LUGANA

This story begins with an 18 th century farm, the birthplace of the estate founded in 1967. A pioneer with

an unwavering faith in the potential of the land, its founder played a key role in creating the Consorzio

del Lugana, securing Cà Maiol’s place at the very heart of the appellation’s rise.

Today, the Marzotto family ensures that this founding spirit lives on: a clear vision, a deep-rooted

attachment to the land, and a constant desire to showcase the purity of Lugana.


ITALY

APPELLATION

THE MARZOTTO FAMILY – REPRESENTED HERE BY ALESSANDRO – HAS PRESERVED THE FOUNDING SPIRIT AT

CÀ MAIOL

Here, everything starts with the land. The estate’s 110 hectares stretch from the historic core of Lugana

to the hills of Valtènesi, where stratified clay – shaped long ago by glaciers – encounters the ever-mild

microclimate moderated by the lake’s breezes. The vineyards form a beautifully manicured garden, with

immaculate rows punctuated by olive trees, citrus trees and copses. The landscape exudes harmony and

naturally imprints finesse and tension into the wines. Sustainability lies at the estate’s core. Practices

show respect for biodiversity, rely on low-impact, sustainable methods and comply with stringent

environmental standards. An experimental vineyard has also been established to safeguard Turbiana’s

identity and anticipate how the variety will respond to future climate shifts.

The cellar’s perfectly calibrated design serves one purpose only: the wines themselves. Spread across

three levels, it allows for gravity-fed processes – protecting the integrity of the grapes.

The architecture is not decorative: its purpose is to show respect for the grapes so that sense of place

can fully express itself. Our tasting, curated by Valentina Zanella, confirmed this emphasis on purity

and aromatic precision, particularly in slightly more mature vintages that reveal true complexity. Cà

Maiol has earned its reputation as one of Lugana’s foremost interpreters – an estate that does not chase

trends but instead asserts a confident, unmistakable signature style.

SHEER JOY

Our journey around Lake Garda draws to a close – and what a captivating experience it has been,

shaped as much by the landscapes as by the wines. Everywhere we went, a shared commitment

emerged: the winegrowers’ profound determination to protect their terroir. Their wines truly capture

a vitality that is a joy to behold. One thing is certain: we have not heard the last from Lugana DOC. It

will continue to delight white wine enthusiasts, of which there are many.

66


WINE TOURISM IN CHAMPAGNE:

THE STORY OF BUBBLES

BY ALAIN ECHALIER

PHOTOGRAPHS:

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES

Wine tourism in Champagne features far more than tasting sessions – it offers

a full immersion into a rich and internationally recognised heritage. Famed for

its iconic sparkling wines, the region draws visitors from across the globe eager

to unlock the secrets behind Champagne’s creation.

ENJOYING SOME RELAXATION SURROUNDED BY CHAMPAGNE VINEYARDS

LÉGENDES


CHAMPAGNE

WINE ROUTE

The experience begins in the storied hillsides listed

as Unesco World Heritage since 2015. Travellers

wind their way along the picture-postcard routes,

admiring the scenery in the Montagne de Reims,

the Côte des Blancs along the Marne Valley and the

Côte des Bar.

THE CELLAR HEWN WITH A PICKAXE BY JEAN BOVIÈRE

A JOURNEY INTO THE CRADLE OF

SPARKLING WINE

THE FAUX DE VERZY

The visit reaches new depths – quite literally – with

a descent into the cellars and the ancient chalk quarries.

Some of these subterranean galleries date back

two thousand years, offering naturally stable temperatures

and humidity ideal for ageing Champagne.

From the world-renowned Champagne houses to the

co-operative cellars and independent growers, each

one tells its own story of terroir and craftsmanship.

Alongside guided tours, Champagne’s wine tourism

offering also includes tasting workshops that introduce

visitors to the different styles of Champagne

(Brut, Rosé, Blanc de Blancs, Ice…) and help them

recognise their subtle aromas. Some wineries even

invite guests to try their hand at playful activities

such as manual disgorgement or blending.

Refined gastronomic experiences – including Michelin-starred

dining – rounds out the programme,

offering pairings that showcase Champagne at its

best. There is also a choice of stylish accommodation,

ranging from luxury hotels to gîtes set amidst

vineyards. Ultimately, wine tourism in Champagne

is an invitation to celebrate the French lifestyle and

to return home with memories as elegant as they

are enduring.

CHAMPAGNE DENIS BOVIÈRE,

MONTAGNE DE REIMS

Our journey begins among the Grand Cru vineyards

that fringe the southern edge of the city. Florian

Bovière, the company’s third-generation winegrower,

introduces us to the small family-run

business located in Verzenay, founded by his grandfather

Jean. It was Jean himself who descended into

the chalk pit, pickaxe in hand, to carve out the cellar

where his Champagnes would mature.

The present-day estate covers 4.8 hectares of vines

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CHAMPAGNE

WINE ROUTE

and remains proudly family-run – an authenticity that draws visitors from near

and far. Around 70% are French, joined by Italians, Belgians and other nationalities.

“Customers visit the winery over and over again”, says Bovière. “They often discover

us online – our website is also in English and German – and then my mother, who is

always in the office, welcomes them in our small tasting room. We do recommend

booking ahead though”.

Direct-to-consumer sales account for 40 to 50% of the company’s revenue, a “win-win”

as Bovière describes it: customers pay less and the grower retains higher margins.

“You know exactly what you’re buying and there’s a real person behind it”. Beyond

profitability, cellar door sales are also an effective way of diversifying. With one major

client buying 10% of his production, losing that account suddenly would be a significant

blow – making wine tourism an import form of ‘economic insurance’.

Also, he stresses, “The village has a flagship attraction – the vineyard ecomuseum,

open to visitors and overlooking a true ocean of vines! And nearby Verzy is home to the

famous Faux, a remarkable forest of oak and chestnut trees with gnarled, contorted

branches. Some are 350 years old. It should be on everyone’s to-visit list”.

CHAMPAGNE DENIS MARX IN CERSEUIL

Continuing south of the Montagne, we reach the Marne Valley, home to Domaine

Denis Marx. Nestled in Cerseuil, the estate farms 11 hectares of vines spread over seven

surrounding villages.

Manager Nicolas Marx describes a winery that is very much a family affair. His parents

A SELFIE IN THE VINEYARDS FOR CHRISTELLE, DENIS, AUDRAY AND FLORIAN BOVIÈRE


69

CHAMPAGNE

WINE ROUTE

NICOLAS MARX (CENTRE) IN FRONT OF HIS WINERY

man the cellar door shop from Monday to Saturday,

overseeing direct-to-consumer sales which account

for 30% of the business. Incredibly, 80% of customers

are Belgians. Why? It all began with a single customer

from Bruges – word-of-mouth did the rest.

“They tend to come in small groups of three or four

couples and stay in a nearby gîte for a couple of

days to relax and enjoy the good life. We offer free

tastings and usually a brief tour – an hour or two

– of the press and the cellar. They enjoy the Champagnes

and buy some for themselves, but also for

their circle of friends. Their cars are full when they

leave! If you buy through an importer, you pay

around 3 euros in tax per bottle – so you might as

well put that money to good use!”

Every year, the estate sends out between 1,500 and

2,000 flyers with its price list. Some customers even

place their orders before arriving, collecting their

cases on-site – a kind of Champagne drive-through!

A complimentary glass of Champagne undoubtedly

enhances the visit – and may explain why some

customers have been returning for over a decade.

CHAMPAGNE ALAIN DAVID,

A MAGNET FOR VISITORS

BENOIT DAVID

Slightly farther west, in Boursault, Benoît

David presents an estate founded by his greatgrandparents.

The farm covers just over four hectares

and left the co-operative winery in 2012 to become

independent. Today, 95% of its Champagnes are sold

direct-to-consumers – and 90% of those buyers are

Belgian. With prices starting at 19 euros a bottle,

Belgians have quickly recognised an opportunity to

purchase Champagne at far more attractive prices

than those offered by the major houses.

Because hand-harvesting is mandatory in Champagne,

accommodation rules for pickers are

stringent and the winery eventually decided to

outsource this part of operations. Fifteen years ago,

the unused facilities were turned into guest accommodation.

“We start the day together over breakfast.

Our range features eight Champagnes so guests

spending two nights with us can taste four every

evening. And there is a restaurant in the village, just

50 metres away”. The estate has no website, relying

solely on social media. Rooms are available all year

round, except in January and February. In around

70


CO-OPERATIVE WINEGROWERS AT CHARLES CLEMENT

MARIUS NACHIN, SALES REPRESENTATIVE AT CHARLES CLEMENT

COLOMBÉ-LE-SEC

mid-October, Benoît David also hosts an open-day event featuring oysters, a food truck with burgers,

benches, marquees and highboy tables. “Eeryone has a great time – and we sell Champagne!”

CHARLES CLÉMENT, AUBE CHAMPAGNE BY CO-OPERATIVE GROWERS

As you travel farther south, you discover a part of Champagne that deserves to be better known – the

Côte des Bar in Aube. In Colombé-le-Sec, this boutique co-operative has 68 member growers who farm

120 hectares of vines. The company has retained the family spirit that shaped its beginnings. Over the

past two or three years, sales of its Champagne Charles Clément to the trade have quadrupuled. Marius

Nachin joined the team to expand sales to private customers.

Cellar door facilities where guests can taste three Champagnes – Blanc de Blancs, single varietal Pinot

Noir and blends – are open to the public, with no prior booking required, from Mondays to Fridays. A

small tasting fee is charged but waived with any purchase. Small groups are also welcomed on Saturdays

by appointment. Nachin organises brief tours of the production area and with a bit of luck, the visit

might coincide with disgorgement, offering guests the chance to engage with member growers who lend

a hand. “This is no factory”, he smiles. Buying straight from the producer is a pleasurable experience. For

those driving, moderation is of course essential, but for many older consumers who sometimes struggle

with online ordering, this is one of the few accessible ways to source Champagne at a reasonable price.

And who better than retirees to fully embrace the joy of slow shopping?

Beyond hospitality, Nachin hopes to encourage more people to experience harvesting: “When you go out

and pick grapes then share lunch with the people operating the presses, you gain a true understanding

of how wine is made”.

And for walkers, the co-operative winery is taking part in next year’s ‘Champagne Route’, a gourmet trail

winding through 11 villages, including Colombé-le-Sec. This is one event not to be missed!


NICOLAS VALLEE, SALES AND MARKETING MANAGER AT

CHAMPAGNE BARFONTARC

A WALK THROUGH THE VINEYARDS

BARFONTARC, THE CHAMPAGNE CO-OPERATIVE

STRADDLING THREE VILLAGES

Farther south still, in Baroville – one of the three villages that joined forces to create

this brand – wine tourism has become a central focus. Nicolas Vallée has been the

winery’s sales and marketing director since 2021. Originally, wine tourism was not

on its agenda, but the chairman of this small co-operative with 54 member growers

made a decisive shift: visitors should be made more welcome if the winery was to

strengthen its reputation.

Today, Laura Chouisnard is dedicated entirely to wine tourism. Just 30 metres away from

the winery, rental facilities with a capacity of up to 18 offer accommodation for trade

events, weddings or relaxed getaways with friends – without the worry of drink-driving.

Staying on site allows guests to fully immerse themselves in the experience.

A variety of activities is on offer: winery tours, tastings, food and wine pairing sessions

and walks through the Champagne countryside. There are also motorised scooter excursions

with vineyard commentary, team building activities and even a treasure hunt

designed to help visitors learn about the winery while solving clues. There is plenty of

fun and laughter – and the team is already brainstorming a new style of escape game.

Outdoors, a designated Natura 2000-certified area hosts Champagne picnics with generous

hampers. For those seeking deeper insights into the wines, a dosage workshop is

available by appointment: alongside the cellar master or winemaker, participants taste a still

base wine, a zero dosage, a Brut and an Extra Dry, making the notion of dosage suddenly

crystal clear. The winery’s revenues are rising and four in ten visitors have already been

before – a strong sign of loyalty. The aim now is clear: to become one of the region’s top two

or three must-visit destinations.

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CHAMPAGNE

WINE ROUTE

CHAMPAGNE URBAIN, MEETING

THE WINEGROWER

Also located in Baroville – where it has stood for

the past century – this winery shows yet another

facet of Champagne. Isabelle Urbain explains that

the estate spans 16.5 hectares, much of it naturally

devoted to Pinot Noir, the region’s pride and joy.

There’s accommodation here too – for the past

twenty or so years, the estate has rented out a gîte

and four guest rooms. While hospitality is certainly

part of the intention, the accommodation also

serves a clear marketing purpose – visitors from

the United States, Costa Rica, Germany and beyond

come to spend a few nights, explore the region and

interact with locals and winegrowers. Isabelle

herself serves breakfast, much to the delight of her

guests. “They don’t want anonymity”, she notes.

Ninety percent of the estate’s sales come from the

cellar door shop which is open throughout the week

and on weekends by appointment. With customers

coming to them, there is little need to pursue

exports. Isabelle is there to greet visitors, but if you

have an appointment, punctuality is essential!

The estate also hosts open-day events in the press

room. To add to the festivities, winegrowers from

regions like Chablis and Cognac join in, broadening

its appeal. The day traditionally ends with a dance,

often followed by a walk – 5km no less! – through

the vineyards, including a tasting. There’s even a

night time version.

Looking ahead to next year, plans include a Champagne

cocktail session, highlighting Champagne

Urbain’s flair for diversification with creations such

as cocktails and Ice Champagne. Who could resist

the ultimate Champagne spritz?!

ISABELLE URBAIN

CHAMPAGNE BY NIGHT

AMPLIFYING THE PLEASURE

As this report shows, Champagne remains one of life’s

great pleasures. Yet, as with any wine, the pleasure of

savouring it at source offers an experience like no

other. When you uncork the same bottle back home,

the memories flood back and enhance that experience

even more. Wine tourism not only enriches

the moment, it also strengthens the bond, not just

with the wine but with the person who crafted it. Try

it for yourself, you won’t be disappointed. And when

planning your next getaway, be sure to make room

for a wine tourism experience along the way.


73

VICENTINO, CAPTURING

THE UNIQUE CHARACTER

OF ATLANTIC TERROIR

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE

PHOTOGRAPHS:

COURTESY OF THE ESTATE

Vicentino is a story of revelation – the eureka moment of Norwegian-born Ole

Martin Siem who, after a career in agriculture, discovered the steep Vicentina

coastline south of Lisbon and chose to farm vines there. His wines were born

of this unlikely encounter and for several years already have been skilfully

capturing the essence of this unspoilt land caressed by the Atlantic breezes.

COMBINING TASTINGS, SUN-DRENCHED TERRACES AND COUNTRYSIDE ACCOMMODATION, VICENTINO INVITES VISITORS TO DISCOVER LOCAL

HERITAGE DIFFERENTLY

74


PORTUGAL

FOCUS

VICENTINO’S WINEMAKER BERNARDO CABRAL

T

he name of the region itself – and of the winery – refer to an epiphany.

Legend has it that Afonso Henriques – Portugal’s first king – led an

expedition to find the relics of Saint Vincent, the patron saint of winegrowers.

Along the coast south-west of Alentejo, he was guided by a flock

of blackbirds towards the sacred remains.

In the 1980s, Ole Martin Siem discovered a remarkable region which he

believed offered ideal conditions for his farming ambitions, leading to the

creation of Frupor, a vegetable and plant farm. By 2007, with the project

firmly established and thriving, he was ready to start growing vines. The

terroir looked promising – the clay-schist and silty-sand soils naturally

curbed yields and the cool breezes rising off the nearby Atlantic Ocean

tempered the summer heat. Still, few shared his convictions. Nobody

had yet attempted to plant vines in the area and most urged him to move

further inland. His determination, though, would ultimately reap rewards.

His first wine – “a Sauvignon Blanc with bellpepper notes that captivated

everyone” – was launched in 2014 to resounding success. It was the beginning

of many more successes to come.


VICENTINO WINE’S VINEYARDS ARE LOCATED ALONG THE ATLANTIC

COASTLINE, 200 KM SOUTH OF LISBON

OLE MARTIN SIEM LAUNCHED OTHER FARMING PROJECTS BEFORE GROWING HIS

FIRST VINES IN 2007

CHISELLED WINES

In vineyards shrouded in ocean mist, the grapes ripen slowly, yielding elegant,

balanced wines where fruit aromas mesh with fine acidity. They bear little resemblance

to the intense, sun-drenched wines typical of Alentejo. Instead, their unique

persona offers a different facet of the region, fresher and more delicate – one that

resonates with the current zeitgeist.

In Portugal, his second home, Ole Martin Siem’s pursuit of lightness inevitably

guided his choice of grape varieties and decision to showcase two in particular:

Pinot Noir, reflecting his love of Burgundy, and Sauvignon Blanc, from which

he crafts elegant wines. His extensive 60-hectare vineyard is now also home to

a dozen native and international grape varieties (Alvarinho, Arinto, Sémillon,

Chardonnay, Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Merlot and Aragonez) offering winemaker

Bernardo Cabral and his team endless possibilities to create flavourful blends.

The modern winery – officially unveiled in 2024 – is where the magic comes to life.

Designed by architect Francisco Adão da Fonseca with guidance from Bernardo

Cabral, it sets the stage for quality winemaking, bringing every step of the process

under one roof, thereby eliminating the previous challenge of working across

multiple cellars. The new facilities combine solar energy, water recycling and a

semi-underground design to enhance temperature control and make optimal use

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VICENTINO’S NEW WINEMAKING FACILITIES

THE CONCRETE TULIP TANKS

of gravity. Striving for excellence goes hand in hand with environmental responsibility.

Sustainability, confirms general manager Pedro Cavaleiro, “is a fundamental

aspect of the project. Vicentino subscribes to the Wines of Alentejo Sustainability

Programme (WASP), which constantly works to improve the environmental, social

and economic performances of local winemaking operations”.

A WINDOW TO THE WORLD

Open to wine tourism, the winery never ceases to amaze visitors for the variety

of winemaking vessels it houses – stainless steel tanks, concrete eggs, large oak

foudres and Burgundy casks supplied by Henri Boillot, from which the Chardonnay

vines also originate. The experience is complemented by wine tastings

where wine tourists can discover the distinctive style of the region’s wines.

“They aim to reflect the local residents and their lifestyle: their relaxed, calm

attitude but also their deep connection to the ocean and nature”, stresses Cavaleiro.

The portfolio features 16 labels across five ranges – Poente, Nascente,

Neblina, Luar and Naked – all with meaningful names. In 2024, a sparkling

wine called ‘La Mer’ (‘The Sea’) joined the collection, a true revelation for anyone

who loves bubbles.


THE STAR-STUDDED GALAXY

OF ALSACE WINES

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS

PHOTOGRAPHS:

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES - ©LUCILE K -

©MARTINE FRANKREICH - ©LIBELIA -

©IGNACIO HAASER

Although it was only established 63 years ago, the Alsace appellation is the

region’s oldest, radiating an aura built on reputation and a strong sense of

identity. Long celebrated for its white wines crafted from iconic varietals, the

appellation is also embracing greater diversity through its red wine offerings.

There remains ample opportunity for it to expand its portfolio beyond its

emblematic Grands Crus and Crémants which continue to thrive despite

competition and economic headwinds.

HARVESTING PINOT NOIR GRAPES AT DOMAINE HUBER & BLÉGER

78


ALSACE

APPELLATION

DOMAINE MATERNE HAEGELIN ET FILLES

Set amidst the region’s vineyards, the villages along the Wine Route are home to welcoming streets and

elegant, authentic timber-framed houses. Wine production is big business here and this summer

ripening came exceptionally early. The official start to harvesting was on August 19 for Crémants and

August 25 for still wines. Propitious weather with the occasional storm benefitting the grapes ushered in

a remarkable vintage with significant ageing capacity. This excellent news bodes well for an industry faced

with increasingly fierce competition. Since the Middle Ages, when its wines were exported across Europe,

Alsace has been blessed with a strong identity. Since its inception in 1962, the appellation has complied

with strict specifications that include official harvest dates, minimum alcohol content and yield caps to

guarantee the highest standards. This summer, its future came under scrutiny at the Alsace winegrowers

association’s AGM on July 25. One of the avenues being explored is a new Alsace Cru site-designated appellation.

The move comes as sales of still wine dropped by 2.2% over the first half of the year, compared with

stable volumes for Crémant d’Alsace. Market pressure and the spectre of surplus stocks has led the industry

to envisage a number of solutions, including developing Crémant, reforming the blending system, vine

pulls and even the opportunity to market wines in bag-in-boxes. Whilst there is no denying that there

are issues, the future of the Alsace wine region hinges primarily on the expertise and uncompromising

standards of its winegrowers who continue to ensure their region is a quality benchmark globally.

DOMAINE MATERNE HAEGELIN ET FILLES:

THE ART OF TRANSMISSION

Domaine Materne Haegelin et Filles has a historic setting, including one building dating back to 1616. It

epitomises authenticity and the art of transmission. The winery’s namesake owner Materne Haegelin

passed away in 2020, prior to which his daughter Régine Garnier had taken over at the helm of the

family-run winery in 1987. She was joined by her daughter and fifth-generation family incumbent Elise


RÉGINE GARNIER AND HER DAUGHTER ÉLISE, THE OWNERS OF DOMAINE

MATERNE HAEGELIN ET FILLES

MATHIEU ZOELLER IN HIS CELLAR

in 2009, who took over both winemaking and the estate in 2022. “Alsace wines have a strong

and distinctive history”, explains Elise Garnier. “They reflect our gastronomic and cultural

traditions and the extensive array of vineyard sites. Our production specifications mirror

these strengths and also accurately convey our desire to share wines crafted to high standards

based on ancient traditions with our customers”. The estate grows 7 Alsace grape

varieties and has made Crémants since 1975. Since 1989, it has made a barrel-matured Alsace

red, followed in 2018 by L’Intégrale, a single vineyard selection where just five barrels are

produced in the finest vintages. “Our vines are rooted in sites displaying incredible soil

typicity, punctuated by rocks with outstanding gradients and aspects”, adds Garnier. “Our

wines stem from this fusion of grape varieties and terroirs, where we apply strict standards

but also passion. Time-honoured craftsmanship shapes their character”.

MAISON ZOELLER: SIGNATURE STYLES

Maison Zoeller is a little way off the well-trodden tourist path. In its 13.5-hectare vineyard, it

grows the 7 Alsace grape varieties, Grand Cru Altenberg de Wolxheim, noble rot wines and

Crémants. “Our wines offer a very faithful rendition of their vineyard sites and vintages”,

comments Mathieu Zoeller. “Our use of biodynamic techniques brings out the inherent

qualities of each vineyard block, showing respect for the fruit and ensuring precision winemaking

with minimal use of inputs. The amount of fruit on the vine, observation of the

vintage and the way we adapt our techniques all year round are critical to balance”. Over the

coming years, the region’s varied range of quality whites and Crémants and its strong, positive

sense of identity are assets that can be leveraged. “Winegrowers are constantly adapting,

like they did with changes to production specifications to accommodate skin-contact

80


CHRISTÈLE ZOELLER

IN HER VINEYARD

SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 81

ALSACE

APPELLATION

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT, SÉBASTIEN HUBER, BENJAMIN AND FRANCK BLÉGER

wines”, adds Zoeller. “Several now make Pet-Nats

in response to demand from younger, more unconventional

consumers, whilst others market wines

in kegs. Entry-level varietal wines must continue to

offer an accessible and widely affordable alternative

to the Grands Crus so that we can familiarise people

with the appellation. Even if they act as gateway

wines to newbies, though, they must be made to the

same high standards and benefit from the same care

and attention. Any introduction to our wines must

provide the level of enjoyment that makes people

want to try other wines and only appealing, quality

wines can do this”.

DOMAINE HUBER & BLÉGER:

A TRUE SENSE OF IDENTITY

DOMAINE HUBER & BLÉGER : THE VILLAGE OF SAINT-HIPPOLYTE AT THE FOOT OF

CHÂTEAU DU HAUT-KOENIGSBOURG

At the foot of Haut-Koenigsbourg, whose

500,000 visitors a year make it one of France’s

most visited chateaux, Domaine Huber & Bléger

has a 40-hectare vineyard whose terroir fully lends

its myriad attributes and character to the wines.

Founded in 1967 by Marcel Huber and his cousin

Robert Bléger, it is currently run by third generation

family members Sébastien Huber and Franck

Bléger, joined by his son Benjamin at the start of

the year. “The soils are mostly granite and they add

a lot of elegance and mineral touches, promoting

complexity in the wines”, comments Franck Bléger.

“Alsace wines offer good value for money and the

range of grape varieties, very broad aromatic spectrum

and differing styles from dry to medium-dry

and sweet mean there is something for everyone.

The appellation is perfectly positioned to capture

new markets”. The varietal range is distinctive,

imparting a genuine gourmet touch and signature

aromatics that mesh well with sophisticated

cuisines. In addition to the terroir-driven wines and

Grands Crus, there is also a very accessible array of

appetising, fruity, easy-drinking wines made in a

modern style that chime with a younger consumer

audience. “Strong, consistent growth by Crémants

should protect the region from vine pulls”, adds

Bléger. “But we still need to do a lot more in terms

of communications to promote our wines and

develop awareness”.

82


SABRINA MARINO, MARKETING AND COMMUNICATIONS

DIRECTOR AT CAVE JEAN GEILER

CLÉMENT BOHN, CHAIRMAN OF CAVE JEAN GEILER

AMÉLIE ROUOT, EXPORT SALES DIRECTOR

AT CAVE JEAN GEILER

CAVE JEAN GEILER: INNOVATION AND TRADITION

Cave Jean Geiler boasts an outstanding 880 hectares under vine including Grands Crus and has

carved out a reputation for itself as a regional stronghold. It was founded in 1926 and merged with

the Hunawhir co-operative winery in 2024, bringing its membership up to 281 families who share

the same passion for winegrowing. “The producers who drafted our production specifications

were driven by the same rigorous standards and this has proven to be a real strength because it

heightens consumer confidence and enables our appellation to stand out from the competition”,

explains the winery’s marketing and communications director Sabrina Marino. “Our value for

money continues to be an advantage, particularly in export markets where we develop collaborative

programmes with our customers, both for our traditional wines and newer formats such

as bag-in-boxes”. Cave Jean Geiler markets 6.5 million bottles, 28% of them in export markets,

divided between two-thirds still wines and a balance of Crémants. It has also chosen to innovate,

not disavowing its origins but rather revisiting its wines, as illustrated by two newcomers to its

range. Released in July 2024, Ma Quille! is an ode to Gewurztraminer, sporting an unconventional,

unique and festive livery that makes it a great fit for parties and sharing with others. The aim is

to appeal to a new generation of consumers. With an ABV of just 9.5%, Geil’low – a blend of Pinot

blanc and Muscat – is designed to capitalise on no-low trends but without forfeiting the Alsace

appellation. With its identity intact, its light, ethereal packaging highlights the brand promise

and its price point – identical to the other ranges – makes it accessible and competitive.

MAISON GUSTAVE LORENTZ: FULL-FLAVOURED PLEASURE

Founded in 1836, this Bergheim-based business is located in one of France’s most beautiful villages

and covers a significant 45-hectare vineyard, certified organic since 2012. It markets 1.6 million


LÉGENDES

GEORGES LORENTZ WITH HIS TWO DAUGHTERS, OLIVIA AND CLARA

bottles annually, 65% overseas. “The Alsace and Alsace Grand Cru appellations are a magnet for

consumers because of their extensive range”, stresses Georges Lorentz. “They run the gamut

from dry, light styles like Sylvaner and top gourmet food wines like Riesling Grand Cru to more

supple Pinot gris – that can be medium-dry – and Gewurztraminers with their unique aromatics.

There is something for everyone, not to mention the late harvest and noble rot wines and

Crémant d’Alsace, which ranks first on the leaderboard in France”. Maison Gustave Lorentz has

always prioritised dry, gastronomic wines which are available in France but also in 70 countries

around the world. “Like most of my colleagues, I am concerned about declining consumption

caused by new trends, no-low drinks and cocktails”, admits Lorentz. “For several years, we have

been focusing on reaching out to young consumers at shows and presentations. At the end of

the year, we will be releasing two new labels designed specifically for them”.

BESTHEIM: WINES THAT OFFER A MIRROR TO THEIR TERROIR

32 pioneers known as ‘Chasseurs de Lune’ or moon hunters, founded the original winery in

Bennwihr, its home town, in the aftermath of the Second World War. Today, Bestheim groups

together 325 families of co-operative winegrowers who perpetuate the same enterprising team

spirit. The winery markets 13 million bottles, including 6.5 million of Crémant since 2024, made

from 1,400 hectares of vines. It fully encapsulates the strength of this outstanding region.

“Although the appellation only dates back to 1962, our history of winegrowing is much older”,

points out the winery’s head of marketing and communications, Agathe Eckle. “Consumers

84


ALSACE

APPELLATION

immediately recognised the quality and character of

Alsace wines due to their clearly identified varietal

range and distinctive aromatic styles. The high standards

applied by winegrowers and variety of terroirs

also helped establish a powerful image”. Bestheim’s

focus is on freshness – it favours lengthy lees ageing,

which adds tension and aromatic expression. For its

Crémants, finesse is its key calling card and stems

from moderate dosage in order to preserve liveliness

and precision. “Our range is designed for different

audiences”, adds Eckle.

“Accessible wines that capture the essence of their

vineyard sites feature alongside more gastronomic

wines like the Exception range which is matured in

oak casks. For the Crémants, there is also the vintage

Grand Prestige label which undergoes lengthy

ageing on the lees”.

CHRISTOPHE ADAM, THE CELLAR MASTER AT BESTHEIM,

TASTING THE NEW VINTAGE

A PROFESSIONAL,

UNCOMPROMISING IMAGE

As economic headwinds continue and markets

contract, Alsace boasts major strengths such as its

reputation and its ability to appeal to consumers

across the globe. Its incredible vineyard sites and

7 iconic grape varieties – Sylvaner, Pinot blanc,

Pinot gris, Muscat, Riesling and Gewurztraminer

along with Pinot noir for the reds – lend the appellation

a strong image. The region’s winegrowers

are remarkably skilful in leveraging this potential,

promoting it with rigour and responsibility

– a significant share of them farm organically for

example. Alsace is one of just a few French wine

regions that produce virtually no wines outside the

appellation system. Its marketing board prefers,

instead, to focus attention on the Alsace, Alsace

Grand Cru and Crémant d’Alsace appellations, the

latter of which was officially endorsed by decree

in 1976 and continues to grow. This meaningful

commitment underscores the excellence of a

region with an unmistakable identity. Production

specifications safeguard this added value, but

also protect consumers who benefit from quality

wines that showcase a culture of good taste and

resonate with local gastronomy, it too the epitome

of quality and reputation. And that has to be a

winning combination.

PIERRE-OLIVIER BAFFREY, BESTHEIM’S CHAIRMAN


85

LAURA CATENA: “IF THEY DEFEAT

WINE, THEY DEFEAT OUR HISTORICAL

CIVILISATION – WINE IS SACRED IN

MANY CULTURES.”

BY MAURICIO LLAVER

PHOTOGRAPHS:

COURTESY OF CATENA ZAPATA,

© MATT WILSON

Laura Catena is the CEO and founder of the Catena Institute of Wine in

Argentina. She is also a biologist, graduating magna cum laude from Harvard

University, and holds a medical degree from Stanford University, which

explains her passion for promoting the health benefits of wine.

LAURA CATENA IN HER VINEYARDS

86


ARGENTINA

PORTRAIT

LAURA CATENA WITH LLAMA

Born in Mendoza, Argentina, she is a fourth-generation winemaker, joining her father, the legendary

Nicolás Catena Zapata, in 1995. Her mission? To craft wines able to compete with the world’s best.

She also founded her own winery, Luca in Mendoza, and worked as an emergency room physician at

the San Francisco Medical Center in California for 27 years.

Dr. Catena is not only recognised as the ‘face’ or ambassador of Argentine wine, she is also a writer. In

2010, she published her book ‘Vino Argentino: An Insider’s Guide to the Wines and Wine Country of

Argentina’, published by Chronicle Books. It received outstanding reviews from Oprah Magazine, The

New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, The San Francisco Chronicle, La Nación, Town & Country,

Decanter Magazine, Wine Spectator, Vinous, Wine Enthusiast, Wine Advocate and Wine & Spirits,

among other publications.

One of her most innovative projects is her foray into the no/low category with the ‘Domaine EdeM’

project. She shares her plans for the project in this exclusive interview for Gilbert & Gaillard.

In what way are you developing no/low wines?

We began working in this category four years ago, thanks to research at the Catena Institute of Wine,

and we are already selling in Europe and the United States. The project is called ‘Domaine EdeM”, for

‘Elena de Mendoza’. Elena is my mother’s name and one day she asked my sister Adrianna and I to think

about making a wine with lower alcohol content.

Where do you produce the wines?

We have three types of wines: dealcoholised; non-alcoholic wines infused with botanicals; and what we

call ‘7%’. We produce the dealcoholised wines in Spain using Airén grapes and a technology that saves

significant amounts of energy. We make the non-alcoholic wines in Argentina using Chardonnay grapes

and must, which we infuse with botanicals in varying proportions. They are all sparkling wines.

Are you satisfied with the results?

The no/low movement is so new that it’s not even clear which styles will prevail. But our teams blind taste

the wines being released, and ours always win.


LAURA CATENA HUGGING A VINE

LAURA CATENA, THE ROLLERCOASTER TASTING

Is there anything that particularly impresses you about this new movement?

Alcohol-free wines are consumed in different ways because drinking patterns are different. In fact,

I consider them to be ‘replacement wines’ because they’re perfect for those in-between days when,

even if you want a break from alcohol, you don’t want to miss out on the experience of drinking

wine, which is much more than just alcohol: wine is culture, it’s a gathering, it’s a ritual.

How often should one drink alcohol-free wines?

From a medical point of view, it would be best to have no more than two alcoholic drinks at a time

and skip two or three days a week. The reason for skipping isn’t that drinking alcohol every day is

bad for you, but rather that it’s easier to avoid becoming dependent. Alcohol is very different to

cigarettes: nobody smokes just a few cigarettes - 95% of smokers smoke too many. With alcohol, on

the other hand, 70% drink moderately. So, for me, non-alcoholic/low-alcohol wines are for those

days when you’re not drinking alcohol, but you want to treat yourself to a glass.

So you see a future for them?

Yes, but they have to be really good. Non-alcoholic beers are quite good, so the same has to happen

with wine. There are many non-alcoholic/low-alcohol wines that are starting to be very good, and

that’s very promising.

Are there any statistics on this?

More than 95% of consumers of non-alcoholic products are consumers of regular wines. At least

today. But it’s possible that in the future, young people who don’t drink alcohol today, whether for

fashion or health reasons, will enter the world of wine through non-alcoholic/low-alcohol wines.

What are your thoughts on the increased demonisation of alcohol consumption?

What’s happening is a catastrophe in Europe and very bad in the United States. It’s not yet as bad in

Asia and Latin America, but the situation in Europe is very serious. I’m outraged by what’s happening

in France, where it’s forbidden to say that alcohol can be good for your health, even though

88 2025 - N°60 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

ARGENTINA

PORTRAIT

there are thousands of articles demonstrating that

moderate consumption can reduce mortality from

heart disease. That law isn’t based on science, and it

leads me to ask: “How can the birthplace of wine be

swayed by something so unscientific?” Which also

surprises me, because the French are very scientific.

Is the same thing occurring in all European

countries?

No. Today, the leaders in wine and health are Spain

and Italy, and especially Spain where a study is

underway that in around four years’ time will answer

the question of whether the Mediterranean Diet

with wine is better than without it. But the issue is

widespread and is affecting many products, such as

Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, which has been given

warning labels for high salt and fat content for political

reasons. I find this absurd because it’s a historic,

artisanal product consumed in small quantities. And

in Ireland, they’re due to introduce a warning that,

in my opinion, is neither medically nor scientifically

sound, to the point that we’ve decided to stop selling

wines in Ireland.

FORMER ER PHYSICIAN LAURA CATENA NOW GROWS WINE IN ARGENTINA

LAURA CATENA KISSING AN OLD VINE

Why did you make such a drastic decision?

Because I’m not going to put a lie on my bottle, and

also because I’m a doctor. They’re making it compulsory

for labels to say ‘Alcohol causes cancer and liver

disease’. That’s not right! They should say ‘Excessive

alcohol causes...’ What’s happening is very strange.

How would you defend wine consumption in this

context?

It’s very clear that excessive drinking increases heart,

brain and psychiatric problems, and can even cause

cancer. But this begs the question: what is excessive

drinking? In general, moderate consumption

is up to two drinks per day for men and one drink

for women. Also, you should never drink more than

four or five drinks in two hours, because that can be

toxic and cause accidents, among other things. But

moderate alcohol consumption, accompanied by

food, is like a kind of aspirin with beneficial cholesterol-lowering

and cardiovascular effects. The problem

is that if they start adding labels saying that alcohol is

bad, we won’t be able to conduct studies like the one

on the Mediterranean Diet in Spain, which would

greatly clarify the situation. The anti-alcohol movement

is dangerous because if they defeat wine, they

defeat our historical civilisation – wine is sacred in

many cultures.


89

ECHOES IN THE VINEYARD:

THE REBIRTH OF TURKISH WINE

BY LEVON BAĞIŞ

PHOTOGRAPHS:

COURTESY OF THE WINERIES:

© 502 VINEYARDS,© DIREN WINES,

© ZÜHTÜ ÖZÇELIK,© PAŞAELI WINES,

©BORA BOYSAL,© DERYA TURGU

“As one travels farther to the south and east of Europe, the vine encounters Islam’s

stubborn barrier. It is true that vineyards remain in lands under Islam’s control, and wine

there is a tireless contraband traveller. In Istanbul, near the shipyards, taverners sell wine at

retail to Greek sailors every day, and Süleyman the Magnificent’s son Selim has grown

exceedingly fond of Cyprus’s sweet wines.”

Fernand Braudel

THE TERRACED VINEYARDS IN THE ÇOMA LOCATION OF KARACAOĞLAN VILLAGE ARE SHAPED LIKE AN AMPHITHEATRE

90


TURKEY

DISCOVERY

AN OLD KARASAKIZ VINE

Imagine standing in a vineyard 1,200 meters high, the crunch of volcanic stones underfoot as you

gaze across the ethereal landscape of Cappadocia. The wind seems to whisper a 5,000-year-old

story, a journey through time in one of the oldest homelands of wine. While Turkey may not be

the first country that comes to mind when you think of wine, the lands that constitute the modern

republic are home to its likely birthplace. The Transcaucasus region, including the area around

Mount Ağrı (known as Ararat in Genesis), is where the grapevine was first domesticated.

This deep-rooted history is woven into the very soil of Anatolia. The Hittite Empire, one of history’s

first great states, promulgated wine-related laws from its capital, Hattusa, just two hundred

kilometres from modern-day Ankara. Some linguists even argue that the words for ‘wine’ in most

European languages derive from the Hittite word, ‘wiyana’, offering a linguistic echo of this ancient

heritage. Hittite laws imposed severe punishments for stealing cuttings from a vineyard, underscoring

the value of viticulture. Centuries later, ancient sources like the Histories of Herodotus,

which chronicles the wine trade along the Tigris River, further confirm that Anatolia has long been

a vital centre for wine.

A RESILIENT HISTORY:

FROM OTTOMAN RULE TO THE MODERN REPUBLIC

The story of Anatolian wine is one of persistence. During the Ottoman Empire, wine became a

complex issue, testing the limits of social order while relying on the tax revenues from its production,

which was largely delegated to non-Muslim subjects. The single most consequential event

of this era was the phylloxera plague that wiped out Europe’s vineyards in the late 19th century.

This created a massive demand that the Ottoman Empire filled, with production soaring to over

340 million litres annually. However, this golden age was cut short by the Balkan Wars, World War I,

the tragic loss of the Armenian population and the 1924 Greek-Turkish population exchange, which

decimated the region’s winemaking know-how.


UMAY ÇEVIKER AND LEVON BAĞIŞ, CO-OWNERS OF YABAN

KOLEKTIF

UDO HIRSCH, THE OWNER OF GELVERI WINES, WHO PIONEERED NATURAL WINE

IN TURKEY

The newly-founded Turkish Republic faced its own challenges, including a brief prohibition from 1920 to

1926. Once lifted, the state, under founder Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, embraced viticulture as a vehicle for

modernization. This period saw the birth of Turkey’s most iconic private wineries: Nihat Kutman founded

Doluca in Istanbul in 1926, and Kavaklıdere Wines began in Ankara in 1929.

THE MODERN ERA AND ITS CHALLENGES

Turkey’s wine sector began a significant transformation in the late 1980s. A pivotal moment came when

Kavaklıdere Wines and Ankara University collaborated to rescue the Kalecik Karası grape from near

extinction. Around the same time, Doluca launched its Sarafin project, planting international grapes like

Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Today, despite vast vineyard lands, the industry is constrained by a

limited domestic market; for years, per capita consumption has hovered around just one litre, with nearly

half of this volume consumed in tourist areas. This challenge is further compounded by a 2013 law banning

the promotion of alcoholic beverages. This has led producers to creatively pivot toward wine tourism.

Amidst these challenges, interest in native grapes is growing, thanks to projects like Yaban Kolektif and

Heritage Vines of Türkiye (HVOT), with roughly 158 producers now active.

THE LAY OF THE LAND: TURKISH WINE REGIONS

Located roughly between 36° and 42° north latitude, Turkey sits further south than many of the world’s

classic wine regions. This means high temperatures and increased drought risk, especially at lower elevations.

Altitude has therefore become a critical factor in modern Turkish viticulture. From the Taurus

92


TURKEY

DISCOVERY

Mountains to the Central Anatolian plateau, from the cool valleys of Thrace to the high steppes

of Eastern Anatolia, the country offers a unique diversity that can turn the necessity for altitude

into an advantage. In Turkey, mountains – and rivers in particular – have a stronger impact

on vineyards than the seas.

Aegean Region

As Turkey’s largest wine-producing region, the Aegean was home to the ancient world’s largest

temple to Dionysus in Teos. Vineyards extending from İzmir on the coast to inland toward

Denizli are under the influence of the Meander (Menderes) River. Climatically, the region can

be divided into Coastal Aegean, cooled by breezes coming from the sea, and the Inland Aegean,

which has a more continental climate. The coastal area of Urla is a top gastronomic destination,

with Urlice being the first winery, later joined by prominent producers like Urla Wines and Hus.

The inland Denizli Plateau, with elevations reaching 900 metres and with gravel and limestone-rich

sandy soils, has become a hub for quality viticulture. Pamukkale Wines, which first

brought Syrah to Turkey, has been producing here since 1962. The region is home to a mix of

established and new producers, including Sevilen, Prodom, 7 Bilgeler, and KÜP. Paşaeli Wines

is known for its innovative wines, and the popularity of the local Çalkarası grape has increased

thanks to DNA studies conducted by Paşaeli which showed its relation to the Liatiko grape;

this variety is also championed by newer producers Lermonos and Kuzubağ. After Kavaklıdere

began making wine from Sultaniye, Heraki Wines, which also hosts the Yaban Kolektif project,

SEYIT KARAKÖZOĞLU, THE OWNER OF PAŞAELI VINES


93

TURKEY

DISCOVERY

started producing noteworthy wines from the grape.

Kavaklıdere’s Pendore Vineyards in Manisa remain

among the largest in Turkey, a province also home

to Kastro Tireli, which draws attention with its minimally

intervened and natural wines.

THE VILLAGE SCALE IN BAYRAMIÇ (AEGEAN REGION), WHICH ALMOST FUNCTIONS

LIKE AN OPEN-AIR WINE HOUSE

Thrace and Marmara Region

This productive region includes Istanbul and borders

the Black Sea to the north, the Sea of Marmara

through the middle, and the Aegean Sea to the west.

The Ganos Mountains to the south and the Istranca

Mountains to the north create different microclimates.

Along the Marmara coast, a Mediterranean

climate is prominent, while the north has a mix of

Black Sea and continental climate influences. The

region is home to some of Turkey’s oldest producers,

such as Melen and Doluca. Kayra Wines, the heir to

the privatised state monopoly TEKEL, also produces

here. The historic island of Bozcaada hosts producers

like Çamlıbağ and the influential Corvus. In the

north, in Kırklareli, Chamlıja draws attention with

its top-tier wines. The region also features Gülor, one

of Turkey’s first boutique producers, and Paşaeli,

which works with nearly extinct grapes. Porta Caeli

represents one of the largest recent investments in

Turkish wine.

MERZIFON KARASI GRAPES GROWN IN THE BLACK SEA REGION. 502 VINEYARDS

Central Anatolia Region

Stretching along the Kızılırmak River, this is a

region where winemaking has continued since

Hittite times. Its climate is shaped by one of Anatolia’s

highest mountains, the extinct volcano Mount

Erciyes, and by the river. The famed sub-region of

Cappadocia, formed by volcanic activity, has visually

unique vineyards at 900–1100 metres above sea level

with volcanic soils. This is the historic heartland of

Anatolian wine and home to Kavaklıdere Wines, one

of Turkey’s largest firms. It’s also where pioneering

producers are making their mark. Vinkara is known

for its traditional-method sparkling wines, while

Tomurcukbağ Winery, owned by the academic who

helped save Kalecik Karası, is a key player. In Cappadocia,

Turasan and Kocabağ are the oldest producers,

known for their Emir wines, while Kavaklıdere

also has its Côtes d’Avanos vineyards here. Vinolus

is active in Kayseri, and Gelveri is closely followed

for its natural wines made in ancient amphorae.

More recently, Mistia Wines has begun producing

noteworthy wines in Konya.

Geographically located in the Black Sea Region, it is

94


DIREN WINES’ VINEYARDS AT TOKAT

THE OWNER OF PATKARA VINEYARD IN MUT WHICH IS OVER

100 YEARS OLD

also necessary to mention Tokat and Merzifon. In Tokat, the local Narince grape is preserved by

Diren Wines, founded in 1958, while the rediscovered Merzifon Karası grape, native to Merzifon,

was first planted by Likya Wines and is now vinified in its homeland by 502 Vineyards.

Mediterranean Region

Although the immediate coast is climatically ill-suited to viticulture, production becomes

possible at altitude thanks to the Taurus Mountains that rise inland. Likya, the first contemporary

producer in the area, makes wines in the high-altitude district of Elmalı and excites

enthusiasts with its Arkeo series from forgotten varieties. In Mut, a highland settlement, producers

Tasheli and Selefkia vinify local varieties. Originating from Vakıflı (Turkey’s last Armenian

village), the local Barburi grape is cultivated and vinified in Antakya by Antioche Wines in their

own regional vineyards.

Eastern and South-eastern Anatolia Regions

These two vast regions are shaped by the Euphrates and Tigris rivers. Eastern Anatolia has a

plateau topography at roughly 1,000 metres with a harsh continental climate. South-eastern

Anatolia is home to the basins of the two great rivers. The area around Elazığ and Malatya

features red clays, weathered granite and limestone soils, with large day-night temperature

swings. The Tigris basin is known for its arid, high-altitude and severe conditions. This is the

homeland of Turkey’s most famous red grapes, Öküzgözü and Boğazkere. The classic ‘Buzbağ’

blend was made famous by the state winery in Elazığ, which now continues as the Kayra brand.

In the same region, Kuzeybağ has begun producing its own wines, highlighting endemic varieties.

The highest vineyards in Europe, at 1,770–1,800 metres, grow the Erciş Karası grape; from

these vines, grapes are purchased and made into wine by Yaban Kolektif. The local Horozkarası

grape is now being vinified by Nİ&CE in Kilis. The region also has a deep-rooted Syriac (Assyrian)

winemaking tradition, kept alive by producers Siluh and Midin, who proudly label their

bottles ‘Syriac Wine’.


HARVESTING PATKARA

GRAPES

A TASTE OF ANATOLIA: KEY INDIGENOUS GRAPES

Turkey is a treasure trove of indigenous grapes, with nearly 80 varieties currently used in winemaking and many

more being rediscovered. The following selection represents some of the most distinctive and significant grapes

that are defining the modern Turkish wine scene. While space precludes mentioning others like the crisp white

Sıdalan or the rare red Karasakız, these seven provide a compelling introduction to the flavours of Anatolia.

• MİSKET: In Turkey, this grape is known as Bornova Misket; in the rest of the world, it goes by Muscat Blanc

à Petit Grains. When made into wine, it yields fresh and lively aromas and is best enjoyed young. Its defining

character depends on where it is grown: in warmer regions it has a pronounced sweet flavour, in colder areas it

develops a greener, herbal fragrance. Misket is generally considered to be more aromatic than most other local

grape varieties. Flavour profile: Bergamot, rose, tropical fruit - mostly in warmer climate regions.

• NARİNCE: Originating from its homeland around Tokat in the Yeşilırmak River basin, the Narince grape is one

of Turkey’s most versatile and highly regarded white varieties. It produces structured, medium- to full-bodied

white wines with a character often described as voluptuous and pleasant, well-balanced acidity. One of Narince’s

key attributes is its excellent suitability for ageing, particularly when fermented and matured in oak barrels, which

adds layers of complexity. Its adaptability also allows it to be used in the production of high-quality traditional

method sparkling wines. Flavour profile: complex, typically showcasing citrus and ripe white fruit notes with

distinct minerality.

• EMİR: This grape is endemic to the Niğde and Emir regions of Turkey. It gives us a pale yellow, pleasantly acidic

and elegant wine with mineral tones and minor fruity aromas of mostly green and red apples. It is sometimes

used in sparkling wines and enjoyed as an aperitif. It does not blend well with oak and is best consumed within

the first three years; if aged longer, the wine tends to lose its attractive freshness. Flavour profile: Apple, lemon,

limestone minerality.

• BOĞAZKERE: Boğazkere is native to Diyarbakır. It produces deep ruby-red, full-bodied wines that are distinctly

tannic, medium-low acidic and occasionally quite rustic. When blended with the Elazığ region’s Öküzgözü grape,

it takes on a very balanced and elegant quality. Of all of Turkey’s grapes, it is one of the most suitable for ageing in

96


TURKEY

DISCOVERY

oak barrels; when aged 5-15 years, well-crafted wines

become even better, exhibiting wild, earthy notes.

Flavour profile: Red cherry, raspberry, white pepper,

cloves, eucalyptus. When fully mature, these wines

exhibit sweet notes of blackberry and black cherry,

as well as complex aromas such as ripe quince, fig

and local black olives.

• KALECİK KARASI: This grape grows in the Kalecik

district of Ankara. It produces fruity, light- to

medium-bodied, blush-coloured wines. They are

low- to medium in acidity, low in tannins and have

great ageing potential, making them one of the best

grapes in Turkey for this purpose. Unfortunately,

climate change in this region has caused the grapes to

become overripe and high in alcohol. In recent years,

it has also lent itself to great sparkling wines, made

with traditional methods. Flavour profile: Cotton

candy, strawberry, raspberry. In hotter regions, these

aromas can take on a jammy sweet quality.

• ÖKÜZGÖZÜ: Öküzgözü is a large, dark-coloured

grape variety grown in the Elazığ and Malatya

region. While it produces a very balanced blend

with Boğazkere, Öküzgözü can also stand alone as

a high-quality wine. Typically, Öküzgözü produces

medium-bodied wines with high acidity, soft

tannins and an elegant, balanced character. Flavour

profile: Cherry, sour cherry, raspberry, pomegranate

molasses, black mulberry, eucalyptus. It can sometimes

also have a slightly cooked or jammy quality.

• PAPASKARASI: This grape is grown in the Thrace

region where Kırklareli and its surrounding areas

produce some of the best Papaskarası wines. Long

ago, it was the most well-known grape variety from

the region, but over time it fell out of favour. Now,

thanks to the efforts of local producers, it is regaining

popularity. It has medium-sized but tightly

clustered grapes that ripen late, yielding aromatic

wines with medium-low tannins and high acidity.

Flavour profile: Ripe plums, cherry, spicy, earthy and

animal notes.

The story of Turkish wine has reached the present

day full of disruptions, yet every obstacle has only

reconfirmed how deep-rooted this culture is in

Anatolia. With a unique library of grapes, a strong

gastronomic heritage and a dynamic young generation

of producers, Turkey is finding a stronger voice

on the global stage. Perhaps, as in the past, the wines

of this land will be more than just a beverage – they

will be a symbol of culture, identity and hope for

the future.

THE VINEYARDS AND WINERY FOUND IN THE ANCIENT CITY OF UZUNCABURÇ

(DIOCAES AREA)

OLD KRASAKIZ VINES


97

MORLET FAMILY VINEYARDS,

WHERE EXCELLENCE COMES

SECOND NATURE

BY ETIENNE GAILLARD

PHOTOGRAPHS:


It’s hard not to be fascinated by producers who transcend borders, fusing ancient

heritage and technical mastery with the energy of new-found vineyard sites.

Morlet Family Vineyards, tucked into the heart of Napa Valley in California,

effortlessly embodies that fusion.

LUC MORLET TASTING WINES

98


USA

PORTRAIT

JODIE AND LUC MORLET IN THEIR CALIFORNIAN SANCTUARY

F

ounded in 2006 by French winegrower Luc Morlet – the

fifth-generation incumbent of a long line of Champagne

producers - and his wife Jodie, the brand took on a new life in

2010 when they began restoring a historic St Helena winery.

Their ambition was to create a sanctuary where each bottle

possesses its own distinctive harmony.

The French names – Force de la Nature, Force Tranquille and

Cœur de Vallée – belie the Californian origin of the wines. We

were fortunate to host four vertical tastings down through

four vintages of Force Tranquille and five of Cœur de Vallée

and Force de la Nature. The most striking impression is the

consistency of the wines, mirroring Luc and Jodie’s devotion to

authenticity. The remarkable scores awarded to Cœur de Vallée

2021 (100/100), 2020 (99/100) and 2019 (99/100) say it all.

Tasting wines by Morlet Family Vineyards, you are immediately

struck by the relentless pursuit of terroir purity. Here, pinpoint

precision meets American power and pitch-perfect maturation.

Force de la Nature, from 2018 through to 2022, stands out for its

purity – clean, vivid and delightfully untamed. It makes sense

for a blend that isn’t really one at all, where Cabernet Franc is


THE VINES USED TO CRAFT THE

‘MON CHEVALIER’ LABEL

BLENDING REQUIRES

HIGH-PRECISION CRAFTSMANSHIP

the sole backbone. The 2021 vintage deserves a special mention for its chiselled

fruitiness and tannin structure showing incredible breed.

The next step is to blend a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon with the more forthright

Cabernet Franc. This is the idea that Luc and Jodie have distilled into Force

Tranquille, which radiates natural clarity across the four vintages tasted (2019

to 2022). Like a memorable sporting moment, where sometimes the simplest

movements are the most beautiful to behold, this wine captivates with its grace,

poise and natural charm.

Then comes Cœur de Vallée, in all its regal splendour. Generous and expansive

with every facet sculpted in granular detail, and clearly built for greatness. Its

noble – at times racy – palate weight is underpinned by stellar oak. What more

is there to say, except that in the past ten years, Gilbert & Gaillard has awarded

only three 100/100 scores – and 2021 Cœur de Vallée is one of them.

In conversation, the finest technicians are instantly recognisable by their precision,

honesty and encyclopaedic knowledge of their wines. But identifying the

clear intent behind every bottle – even with the most challenging grape varieties

– requires more than that. And Luc Morlet has what it takes.

100


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ART LAIETÀ, WHERE AUTHENTICITY

HAS A UNIQUE FLAVOUR

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE

PHOTOGRAPHS:


Bodega Art Laietà is nothing short of a miracle. Just 12 kilometres from

Barcelona, nestled within a national park that shields it from urban sprawl,

the uniquely styled winery rises unexpectedly from the surrounding woodland.

Its eco-friendly wines are crafted in the most natural way and act as a magnet

for visitors and consumers, from near and far.

THE DO ALELLA IS ONE OF SPAIN’S SMALLEST

102


SPAIN

FOCUS

MIREIA PUJOL-BUSQUETS, JOINT OWNER OF ART LAIETÀ

The story of Art Laietà began in 1991, when Josep Maria Pujol-Busquets and

Cristina Guillén took over an estate with striking modernist architecture set

in the heart of the Serralada de Marina national park. Their vision was to plant

vines they would farm organically – before it became common practice – and

to craft environmentally-friendly still wines and cavas that would capture the

essence of their unique terroir.

Over three decades later, the founding ethos remains unchanged. Today, the

owners’ daughter Mireia Pujol-Busquets helms the family estate with the same

unwavering commitment to her parents’ vision. “All our wines and cavas are

organic and since 2006, we have made them with no added sulphites, pioneering

the style with our Cava Bruant. We subsequently pushed the boundaries even

further with our ‘Celler de les Aus’ project established in 2012. All the wines in

the range are natural with minimum intervention. And all our cavas are brut

nature – nothing artificial so they can fully express sense of place and nuance

with each vintage.

Every bottle captures the essence of the Mediterranean landscapes and the

ever-present sea breeze, but above all the typical sandy, granite soils in Alella,

known locally as sauló. This distinctive terrain lends the wines minerality and

allows the native grape varieties to excel. Among them, Pansa Blanca – known

in other appellation areas as Xarel·lo – thrives here, displaying notes of apples

and fennel. Bottle ageing accentuates these characters, explains Mireia Pujol-

Busquets, with the wines taking on nuances reminiscent of mature Riesling,


HERE, THE FRUIT IS PICKED BY HAND

JOSEP MARIA PUJOL-BUSQUETS, THE ESTATE’S FOUNDER WITH HIS DAUGHTER MIREIA

while retaining a hallmark freshness and saline edge – the unmistakable signature

of Art Laietà.

The desire to showcase the local area also inspired the winery’s commitment to

research. Around twelve years ago, it began collaborating with research centres

to drill down on climate-resistant native grape varieties. As Pujol-Busquets

stresses, most crops are clonally propagated and have therefore not evolved –

leaving them vulnerable to changes in temperature and drought, along with

the resultant diseases. “This is why we launched this project, which is now well

advanced. Our goal is to develop vines that are more resilient but do not lose

the organoleptic characters of our traditional vines, thereby protecting the wine

culture that defines our area”. Pujol-Busquets feels that the research is not a

choice but a responsibility – a way of safeguarding the future of viticulture for

generations to come.

At Art Laietà, research and innovation go hand in hand with a deep respect for

heritage – a balance that is of paramount importance to the winery. “We are

farmers but also scientists”, comments Pujol-Busquets in an interview. Technology

is simply a means to an end: greater efficiency and sustainability. Sensors,

weather stations and satellite imagery are used to further understanding of each

vineyard block and to optimise the use of resources, particularly water. Sustaina-

104


ART LAIETÀ PRODUCES

APPROXIMATELY

350,000 BOTTLES A YEAR,

DIVIDED BETWEEN STILL AND

SPARKLING WINES

FOR OVER A DECADE,

THE BODEGA HAS ALSO FOCUSED

ON REGENERATIVE FARMING,

PLACING EMPHASIS ON THE SOILS

bility and quality are closely intertwined. The results speak for themselves – the

winery’s vineyard footprint has risen from 1.5 to 60 hectares, soon to be 80 ha.

The same philosophy shapes the development of wine tourism activities at Art

Laietà, transforming it into a regional benchmark. Here, tourism is not viewed

as a sideline for generating income, but as “a way of engaging directly with

customers” and demonstrating that wine is far more than a simple consumer

product. “We offer customised experiences combining wine, gastronomy, art

and nature. Through staged visits, yoga sessions among the vines, food and

wine pairing dinners and family-friendly activities, we aim to create experiences

that are both unique and authentic”. Again, the venture is successful,

with approximately 10,000 visitors welcomed annually by the winery. These can

be both novices and experts and are half local, half international visitors – having

Barcelona nearby is a help. A great source of pride for Pujol-Busquets is that the

winery has developed a loyal customer base.

This approach has proved remarkably successful, allowing Art Laietà to buck

the general industry trend. Its vineyard acreage and reputation continue to

grow and its revenue has surged by 10% on last year. It seems that it has clearly

championed the right cause, one where sustainability and innovation combine

to drive success.


WINE PARIS 2026:

THREE SHOWS, ONE VISION FOR A

CHANGING DRINKS INDUSTRY

ADVERTORIAL

BY GILBERT & GAILLARD

PHOTOGRAPHS: © JB NADEAU,

© PHIL LABEGUERIE

Paris, Porte de Versailles, from 9 to 11 February 2026

Vinexposium has unveiled its upcoming event, one that is firmly focused on the

future. Wine Paris is evolving beyond a traditional wine exhibition. For the first

time, it will bring together three distinct yet complementary gatherings: Wine

Paris, Be Spirits and the brand-new Be No – a trio designed to reflect the profound

transformation reshaping the alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverage markets.

More than 6,000 exhibitors from 60 countries and 60,000 trade

visitors representing 155 nations are expected, metrics

which underscore the event’s global reach. Notably, 25% of exhibitors

are first-time attendees, a testament to the vitality and

growing appeal of the Paris event.

The 2026 edition will mark two major milestones. Be Spirits –

dedicated to premium spirits, craft beverages, sakes, beers and

ciders – becomes a stand-alone exhibition while remaining fully

integrated into the Wine Paris ecosystem. Over 100 new exhibitors

and 19 national pavilions have already confirmed their

participation, including eight new countries: Bulgaria, Finland,

Madagascar, Monaco, Panama, the Philippines, Sri Lanka and

Ukraine. Meanwhile, the 40-metre-long Infinite Bar and mixologists’

battles themed around ‘Pairing Perfection’ promise a series

of stand-out, immersive experiences.

A major new feature is Vinexposium’s launch of Be No, a dedicated

space devoted to no-alcohol drinks. With IWSR projecting

global value growth of 10% per year by 2028, the Nolo segment

has evolved from a niche trend to a strategic driver of growth.

Twelve countries will be represented with over 250 products

available for free-pour tasting. “Through Be No, we are creating

a stand-alone platform – a stage for creativity and experimentation

where producers and brands can explore new approaches to

alcohol-free offerings. This segment complements existing ranges

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WINE PARIS, BE SPIRITS AND THE BRAND-NEW BE NO EPITOMISE A FUTURISTIC VISION OF WINE EXHIBITIONS FOR 2026 AND BEYOND

while opening up fresh prospects for industry members”, explains Audrey Marqueyssat, Director

of Be Spirits and Be No.

Vinexposium CEO Rodolphe Lameyse highlights the exhibition’s leadership role in times of uncertainty.

Wine Paris is more than a showcase for products; it is a pivotal moment for the industry. The

three-day event is an opportunity to take stock, hone strategies and strengthen vital professional

connections.

As the American and Chinese markets show signs of slowdown, the exhibition is turning the

spotlight toward emerging growth opportunities: India, Sub-Saharan Africa, Latin America and,

in the alcohol-free segment, the Gulf countries where regulatory restrictions promote premium

alternatives. Italy – occupying roughly one fifth of total floor space – Portugal (the fourth-largest

exhibitor country), Spain (55% of floor space) and Germany (the Nolo segment leader after France)

continue to be long-standing pillars of the event.

For Wine Paris director Nicolas Cuissard, these shifts create generational opportunities, as younger

generations drink less but better. They are seeking authenticity, purpose and responsibility.

No-alcohol offerings, as Rodolphe Lameyse notes, also serve as a gateway to entirely new audiences.

From a sustainability perspective, the 2026 exhibition will go beyond recycling, embracing

low-carbon logistics, strengthening its partnership with La Wine Tech Perspectives and highlighting

regenerative agriculture. The aim is to move past sustainability alone – to actively restore and

nurture ecosystems.

Over three days, Wine Paris 2026 will encapsulate the diversity and resilience of an industry that

must innovate while honouring its heritage. For anyone looking to understand the future of the

drinks market – with or without alcohol – this is certainly the place to be.


SAINT-EMILION – BORDEAUX’S

MOST WELCOMING WINE REGION

BY CAMILLE BERNARD

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES,

© GDELAUBIER

Set in the heart of the Libournais, Saint-Emilion is a celebration of singularity.

Behind the ramparts of its storied mediaeval town stretches a wine region

unlike any other in Bordeaux. Here, historic, family-owned properties still

thrive and many gladly welcome visitors through their doors. We venture into

what locals fondly call the ‘land of the thousand chateaux’.

SAINT-EMILION IS A KIND OF PERFECT FUSION BETWEEN STONE AND PLANTS

108


BORDEAUX

TERROIRS

EVERY YEAR, THE MEDIAEVAL WALLED TOWN OF SAINT-ÉMILION ATTRACTS OVER A MILLION VISITORS

Perched on its limestone promontory, the mediaeval town draws over a million visitors annually.

Its cobbled alleyways, monolithic church and historic monuments have made it one of the most

popular wine tourism destinations in France.

Yet behind this heritage showcase lies a viticultural landscape unlike any other. One of Saint-Emilion’s

defining features is its remarkable fragmentation. Its 5,400 hectares of vines are divided among some

800 properties – a mosaic that dates back to the Middle Ages.

This unique configuration has shaped a distinctive winegrowing culture rooted in three pillars: the

transmission of heritage down through the centuries, an intimate connection to the land and a deeply

ingrained sense of hospitality. Listed as Unesco World Heritage, the town stands as a beacon, attracting

wine enthusiasts from around the world. Saint-Emilion’s winegrowers have turned this influx

into opportunity, cultivating a genuine tradition of hospitality. This report introduces three of them.

HISTORIC ROOTS

Nowhere else in Bordeaux are vineyards divided into such small, finely parcelled holdings, many of

them still firmly in the hands of the same families. “The Bon family has been known in Saint-Emilion

since the 13th century”, explains Guy Richard, owner of Château Cadet-Bon. “In the 14 th century, Jacques

Bon – known as Le Cadet – planted a vineyard on the hillside north of Saint-Emilion, on what later

became known as the Butte du Cadet”.

Such historic roots are not the exception here but the rule. Les Vignobles Rollet offer another example:

“The earliest document mentioning the Rollet family and Château du Vieux Guinot is dated 1729”,

comments managing director Geoffroy Billot. “The Rollets are among the appellation’s oldest winegrowing

families”, he adds.

At Château Saint-Georges, the story stretches even further back. “Its origins stem from the Gallo-

Roman period”, recounts owner Jean-Philippe Janoueix. “Excavations carried out in the mid-19 th century


HÉLÈNE ROLLET, PRESIDENT

OF VIGNOBLES ROLLET, AND

GEOFFROY BILLOT,

THE COMPANY’S MANAGING

DIRECTOR

uncovered the remains of an extensive Gallo-Roman villa, said to have belonged to the celebrated Latin

poet Ausonius”. Owned by the Desbois family since 1891, “the vineyards of Saint-Georges were entirely

replanted after the phylloxera crisis”, he adds. Janoueix joined the Desbois family in 2013 and is now

the property’s main owner.

Alongside these deep-rooted family lineages lies another defining feature: physical presence. The

winegrowers live on site, tending their vineyards themselves. When Guy Richard took over Château

Cadet-Bon in 2001, the vineyard “was in very poor condition. Weed killers had been applied everywhere

and no tillage was done”, he recalls. Born into a winegrowing family, Richard had built a successful

career in retail. He then embarked on a complete overhaul of the vineyard at Cadet-Bon, recruiting

the help of consultant winemaker Stéphane Derenoncourt and soil expert Claude Bourguignon. Weed

killers were abandoned, tillage reinstated and microbial life in the soil revived. In 2018, he converted

the estate to organic farming, “to guarantee a more respectful future”, he says.

SMALLER ESTATES WITH A DIFFERENT BUSINESS MODEL

Although Saint-Emilion is home to several large, prestigious properties, most of its vineyards are

farmed by much smaller estates. With an average holding of just 7 hectares, this fragmentation naturally

shapes a specific business model.

Château Cadet-Bon, for instance, spans 7 hectares in total, including 6 of unbroken vines – a perfect

illustration of this scale. Yet its modest size has not prevented it from retaining its Grand Cru Classé

status, which it regained in 1996.

Les Vignobles Rollet operate on a slightly larger scale, with 32 hectares under vine across the Saint-

Emilion and Saint-Emilion Grand Cru appellations, spread between the villages of Saint-Etienne de

Lisse and Saint-Pey d’Armens. Here, the estate has grown steadily, block by block, over the years.

Château Saint-Georges, by contrast, is a true outlier, boasting 44 hectares of unbroken vineyards.

“Such a configuration is rare in Saint-Emilion”, confirms Jean-Philippe Janoueix.

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BORDEAUX

TERROIRS

This highly segmented vineyard landscape calls for

different business strategies. Small estates cannot

rely solely on the traditional negociant channels.

Instead, they have had to cultivate direct-toconsumer

sales, building long-term relations with

their customers and embracing exports without

intermediaries. “We have always made a point

of listening to the end customer so that we can

better respond to market expectations”, explains

Geoffroy Billot. “Today, we’re not just selling wine

– we’re selling expertise”. Les Vignobles Rollet

earns between 75% and 80% of its revenue in

export markets, primarily in Europe and also in

French Polynesia where it has built a long-standing

presence. “Our philosophy is to craft wines for pleasure”,

comments its managing director.

CHÂTEAU CADET-BON, ON LE CADET HILL, IS A GROWTH

WHOSE HISTORY SPANS THOUSANDS OF YEARS

CHÂTEAU SAINT-GEORGES HAS 44 HECTARES OF UNBROKEN VINEYARDS,

A RARITY IN SAINT-ÉMILION

A SENSE OF HOSPITALITY

In the vineyards of Saint-Emilion, welcoming visitors

at the cellar door is a long-standing tradition.

“Long before my arrival, the Desbois family always

opened its doors to the public”, explains Jean-Philippe

Janoueix. “And since hospitality is one of

the values I hold dear, I’ve not only continued but

expanded this activity”.

At Château Saint-Georges, this policy has led to a

wide range of visitor experiences. The ‘Terroir and

Nectar’ tour introduces guests to vineyard work

and concludes with a tasting of two vintages. The

‘Sensations and Flavours’ experience, set within

the herb garden, explores the development of wine

aromas through four fragrant petals. The ‘Epicurean

Tastings’ pair wines, cheeses and charcuterie,

while the ‘Winegrower’s Stop-Over’ includes a walk

through the vineyards followed by a picnic in the

chateau’s grounds. “We welcome many Americans

and Spanish visitors”, notes Janoueix. “What we

hope to share with them is our attachment to the

French art of living”.

At Château Cadet-Bon, Guy Richard has also made

hospitality a cornerstone of the estate’s development.

“We host tours and tastings at the winery. These activities

have brought us a growing number of visitors,

strengthened recognition of our family-run estate


111

JEAN-PHILIPPE JANOUEIX

PERPETUATES THE SENSE

OF HOSPITALITY INHERITED

FROM THE DESBOIS FAMILY

BORDEAUX

TRAVEL

112

BORDEAUX

TERROIRS

and enhanced awareness of our wines”. For him,

the aim extends far beyond selling bottles: “We enjoy

telling the story of Cadet-Bon, showing the work

accomplished in this beautiful vineyard, explaining

the winemaking process and then inviting people to

taste several vintages”.

Les Vignobles Rollet have likewise embedded hospitality

into their commercial strategy. “We welcome

guests by appointment”, explains Geoffroy Billot.

“This openness enables us to establish a direct

connection with consumers, share the estate’s story

and foster loyalty – many of these visitors later

become ambassadors for our wines”. With over a

million visitors drawn each year to its Unesco-listed

heritage, Saint-Emilion is a tremendous economic

powerhouse for the entire region. Visitors who

wander through its mediaeval streets inevitably

continue their journey by discovering the surrounding

estates.

GUY RICHARD, THE OWNER OF CADET-BON,

BEGAN EXTENSIVE RESTRUCTURING OF THE VINEYARDS IN 2001

CLOSENESS – AN ETHOS UNIQUE

TO SAINT-EMILION

Château Cadet-Bon with its 6 hectares of vines, Les

Vignobles Rollet and their 32 hectares and Château-

Saint-Georges with its 44 hectares may differ in

scale, story and commercial reach. Yet, all three share

a common ethos: closeness.

Firstly, they remain close to the land – their owners

live on the estate and personally tend their vineyards.

Secondly, they cultivate a close relationship with

their customers – they are winegrowers who engage,

listen, adapt, travel and welcome visitors.

And finally, there is a closeness in the way the wines

are sold: direct-to-consumers, through on-site

hospitality and curated tasting experiences. The aim

is not just to sell a bottle of wine but to convey a story,

forge a connection and build lasting loyalty.

“We need to lift the sacred aura surrounding

Saint-Emilion”, concludes Geoffroy Billot. The true

identity of the appellation lies in making its wines

accessible, encouraging openness and celebrating

the spirit of engagement. Here, the art of hospitality

is nurtured just as carefully as the vines themselves.

WALKS THROUGH THE VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU SAINT-GEORGES


113

THE QUIET EMPIRE: HOW BOUTINOT

BUILT A GLOBAL WINE BUSINESS ON

DRINKABILITY AND TRUST

BY ELLEN BUDGE

PHOTOGRAPHS:

COURTESY OF BOUTINOT WINES

From a modest, French-focused importer in the North of England to a global

player with vineyards from Sussex to South Africa, Boutinot Wines has quietly

built an empire on drinkability, relationships and a belief that great wine

should never feel out of reach.

HEAPHY VINEYARD IN NEW ZEALAND IS ONE OF FOUR WINERIES OWNED BY BOUTINOT THAT GIVES IT “BOOTS ON THE GROUND”

114


IMPORTER

FOCUS

BOUTINOT WINE’S HEAD OF MARKETING DEBORAH BROOKS AT THE

SUSTAINABILITY IN DRINKS EXHIBITION

Few wine companies wear their global ambitions as lightly as Boutinot Wines, whose

humility but also quiet determination are woven through its forty-five-year history. Born

in Stockport in 1980, when founder Paul Boutinot began importing wines into England to

supply his father’s restaurant, the business now operates on all six continents and distributes

to over 60 countries – yet still sees itself as “the same, just a bit bigger.” Boutinot’s story isn’t

one of overnight success, but of graft, connection and continuity – it remains as committed

as ever to its core mission of “finding and producing wines that are eminently drinkable to

lots of people”, as head of marketing Deborah Brooks explains.

WINERIES WITH PURPOSE

The company’s structure is tailored to this mission. Three strands of equal importance –

agency partnerships featuring 200 exclusive agencies, four strategically-located owned

wineries and three joint-ventures – work in tandem to serve customers ranging from large

supermarket chains to small independent retailers and restaurants. Joint ventures enable

it to secure continuity of supply at a quality level, whilst having its own wineries allows the

company to “practice what it preaches”. Domaine Boutinot in France, Henners in England,

Heaphys in New Zealand and Wildeberg in South Africa “epitomise what we’ve always done

and wanted to do, which is to have properly made wines, with real quality behind them.

Owning our own tractors, soil, barrel centres and winemaking facilities is really important

to us”, stresses Brooks.

The wineries play multiple roles: they strengthen Boutinot’s credibility as a responsible,

quality-driven producer, contribute to local economies and give the company valuable “boots

on the ground” insight into evolving trends, consolidated by in-depth market research. “We


THE TUTTAVIA RANGE OF

LOW-ALCOHOL, FRUIT-FLAVOURED

SPRITZ WINES IN A CAN WAS

DEVELOPED THROUGH BOUTINOT’S

ITALIAN JOINT VENTURE ADRIA VINI

plant ourselves in places where, first and foremost, the terroir is great and we know we

can make great wines”, adds Brooks. “Then we reach out to people in that region so that

we can understand it – and demonstrate our commitment”.

“SHY NEIGHBOURS”

Words like family, shy, humble and home often surface when speaking with Boutinot’s

team, and speak volumes about the company’s ethos. Despite supplying 50 million bottles

annually through nine distribution companies and ranking seventh among the UK’s 50 top

drinks wholesalers, the company refers to its wineries as “homes” – places where “you’ll

always find a key under the mat and wine in the fridge”. True to that modest spirit, each

site is what Boutinot calls a “shy neighbour” to more illustrious wine regions: Cairanne

sits across the river from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Nelson borders Marlborough, Franschhoek

lies just north of Stellenbosch and East Sussex adjoins Kent. The choice of location

reflects both pragmatism – “We haven’t got millions of pounds, euros or dollars to spend

on flashy wineries” – and foresight, offering Boutinot a distinctive foothold in regions

rich with potential.

Another point of difference that gives Boutinot control over supplies and helps rein in

costs, are its joint ventures. The twenty-year-old Adria Vini venture with Araldica in Italy’s

Piedmont region, has now been joined by Azul y Blanco with Bodega Urqo in Argentina’s

Uco Valley and Altavé with Bodegas Borsao in Spain. “Joint venture sounds very corporate

and technical”, says Brooks. “For us, it’s more about matching people with wine and the

ventures are concreted into our business”. The partnership with Araldica has been particularly

fruitful, allowing Boutinot to look beyond Piemonte to regions such as Veneto, Sicily

and Sardinia to build a strong portfolio of distinctive, well-priced wines. It also opened the

door to innovation: through Adria Vini, Boutinot was among the first to introduce Pinot

Grigio Rosé to the UK market. More recently, the two jointly developed Tuttavia, a highly

successful range of low-alcohol, fruit-flavoured spritz wines in cans.

116


WILDEBERG, BOUTINOT’S

WINERY IN FRANSCHHOEK,

SOUTH AFRICA, IS HOME TO

90% MOUNTAIN AND FYNBOS,

IMPLYING RIGOROUS LAND

STEWARDSHIP PRACTICES

ACCESSIBLE QUALITY

Alongside its own production, Boutinot’s agency portfolio is a testament to its sense of continuity and

collaboration. It brings together small artisanal producers – some supplying just a couple of pallets a

year – and large, well-run co-operatives like Alsace’s Cave de Turckheim. The mix reflects a company that

values both scale and soul. “We have a wide distribution network so it’s important that we have a very good

variety of producers on our books”, says Brooks. “And, we enjoy drinking their wines, dealing with them

and breaking bread with them”. At the heart of this network are Boutinot’s 20 winemakers, all guided by

a simple but demanding principle: to make quality wine accessible to all. As Brooks puts it, “It’s relatively

easy to make a fantastic wine at a cost price of €15. To make really good wine for a few euros that stands the

test of time – that people want to drink on a Wednesday night – is hard without compromising on quality”.

SUSTAINABILITY

From nurturing long-term producer relationships to crafting wines for everyday enjoyment, Boutinot’s

approach is rooted in responsibility. That mindset naturally extends to sustainability which, Brooks insists,

is not a new chapter for the company but “best practice” carried forward with renewed purpose at every

echelon. Boutinot aims to reach net zero by 2050 through careful land stewardship – verified by third-party

certification – and practical initiatives such as solar panels at Henners and being the first UK agent to sign

the Bottle Weight Accord, aimed at reducing bottle weights to 420g by the end of 2026. The move not only

cuts carbon emissions but, as Brooks notes, “saves money for customers and on taxes”.

With a sustainability steering group at senior level, cross-department task forces and company-wide carbon

literacy training, Boutinot treats sustainability not as policy but as a reflection of the same grounded values

that have shaped it from the start. “People describe us as a company of grafters. We work hard to trade

and find solutions – to give our customers what they want and our producers what they need. Looking

forward, it isn’t really rocket science, it’s just more of the same”. Half a century on, Boutinot continues to

move forward with quiet confidence, remaining true to its founding spirit – feet in the soil, eyes on the

horizon and an enduring belief that great wine should be within everyone’s reach.


COGNAC STANDS FIRM

BY SYLVAIN PATARD

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF THE ESTATE

Since 2020 and the onset of the pandemic, the Cognac industry has been rocked

by one crisis after another. Cash flow has been bled dry, transactions have

dwindled and prospects are pretty lacklustre in its two key markets, the United

States and China. For all that, Cognac has lost nothing of its global aura. And

as the industry members we spoke to confirmed, there are reasons for hope,

particularly for those active in France and Europe.

FROM ONE POLE TO ANOTHER, THE USA AND CHINA, THE GLOBAL MARKET HAS BECOME CHAOTIC

118


COGNAC

ECONOMY

AFTER A POST-PANDEMIC REBOUND, 2023 MARKED THE START OF EVEN GREATER TENSION IN THE MARKET PLACE

Before looking ahead, it’s worth revisiting the timeline. In 2020 – the year Covid-19 struck –

Cognac sales declined by 22.3% in value compared with the previous year*. The rebound came

swiftly: 2021 saw volumes rise by 16.2% and values by 30.9%*, surpassing even pre-pandemic levels.

Then came 2022 – the year war broke out in Ukraine – putting a damper on recovery. Sales dipped by

4.8% in volume versus 2021. Despite the marginal volume shortfall, values continued to perform well,

partly driven by premiumisation and favourable exchange rates. Still, the slowdown carried the early

signs of something deeper.

By 2023, the data revealed a more marked decline, likely worsened by the October 7 attacks in Israel

which added further tension and concern. At this point, Cognac had clearly entered a phase of decline

or correction, particularly in the USA and China, following the post-pandemic surge.

AFTER THE ‘TRADITIONAL’ WARS CAME THE ECONOMIC WAR

In July 2025, China imposed anti-dumping duties ranging from 27.7% to 34.9% on European

brandies, including Cognac, for a five-year period. A few prominent French companies were

exempted provided they complied with minimum price requirements. The United States followed

suit, placing further pressure on France’s Cognac industry by threatening to introduce steep new

tariffs, creating not only significant cause for concern but also uncertainty. Such customs barriers

place a strain not only on profitability but also on market access and inevitably competitiveness

outside Europe. Added to this are rising costs for raw materials, logistics, containers and energy,

which further hamper growth.

The outlook may seem bleak but there are green shoots and opportunities. The rise of mixology –

and growing popularity of Cognac-based cocktails – has helped broaden the spirit’s audience. No

longer reserved solely for drinking neat or after dinner, Cognac is increasingly used as a premium

ingredient, particularly in American bars.


PRULHO WAS ORIGINALLY A

RENOWNED STILL MANUFACTURER

ALEXANDRE RENAUD, EXPORT SALES DIRECTOR AT PRULHO, REMAINS OPTIMISTIC DESPITE

THE CHALLENGES

The long-standing presence of the top Cognac houses in the United States – in terms of marketing and

distribution – makes this market relatively mature and well understood. Premium Cognac – VSOP and

XO – still holds significant potential for growth in the United States. However, inflationary pressures

and new taxes introduced since the beginning of Donald Trump’s second term also make it vulnerable.

To maintain their foothold in the Chinese market, Cognac firms now need to focus more on higher bottle

values to offset the volume declines. They must also plan ahead or negotiate Chinese customs duties, as

the current exemption granted to the major producers is only temporary. Sooner rather than later, they

may have to pivot towards other Asian markets such as Vietnam and India, or even Africa, to limit their

reliance on China.

Ultimately, the halcyon days before 2021 in Cognac’s two powerhouse markets now feel like a distant memory.

In the interim, however, many producers have been waging a daily war in other markets – foremost among

them France – where their narrative is more pragmatic. We asked several of them to share their experiences.

PRULHO: A DYNAMIC BRAND

For several generations, this family-run Cognac house has upheld its recognised expertise in crafting outstanding

spirits. Nestled in the heart of the Cognac wine region, it produces its Cognacs from brandies

sourced in the prestigious Grande and Petite Champagne crus. The company offers a wide-ranging portfolio,

from the most traditional to the most contemporary styles and has diversified into premium spirits – gin,

whisky and vodka – alongside Pineau des Charentes. Its main markets are located in France and Europe.

Alexandre Renaud, its export sales director, shared his insights: “Because most of our products are

marketed in France, we have been able to cushion the impact of the crisis affecting certain export markets.

Our close connections with the domestic market provide stability and greater flexibility to respond to

shifting demand. The past two years have been extremely positive, with steady growth, the launch of new

ranges and a strengthening of our international presence. We’re also seeing encouraging trends – a return

to genuine values, the quest for authentic products and a renewed appreciation for French craftsmanship,

all of which bode well for our industry”.

120


LÉGENDES

THE ENTIRE MICHELET FAMILY IN ITS SEGONZAC FACILITIES

A TRADITIONAL STILL AT THE MICHELETS

MICHELET: THE FAMILY-MADE COGNAC

Located in Segonzac, the capital of Grande Champagne and a Cognac 1er Cru, this company belonged to

the Massé family since 1608. Over the centuries, it has weathered countless challenges. In 1964, Francis

Michelet and his wife Anne-Marie took over the 4-hectare property, established a distillery and expanded

the vineyard to 16 hectares. Their son Eric joined them in 1995, launching direct-to-consumer sales in

1998 and subsequently extending the property to 30 hectares of Grande Champagne vineyards alongside

his wife Karine. In 2017 they opened a shop, reinforcing their commitment to tradition and the sharing

of family heritage. Today, their sons Benjamin and Thibault carry forward the family passion, poised to

write the next chapter in Domaine Michelet’s story.

Eric Michelet reflects on recent trends: “Over the past couple of years, sales in France have remained

largely stable. By contrast, we have seen a notable decline in sales to the major Cognac houses, private

customers and export markets. The current climate, especially the fall in disposable income, does not

promise any immediate improvement. Weathering the storm requires adaptation and innovation, and

this is something we embrace constantly”. One of the pillars of the range – the Grande Champagne XO

– earned a 90/100 rating from our tasting panel, standing the company in good stead. This distinctive

Cognac captivates with aromas of apricot and blood orange, a refined texture and chiselled aromatics. It

is a charming mirror to its terroir.

COGNAC PAINTURAUD: THE PIONEER OF DIRECT-TO-CONSUMER SALES

This family-owned estate, founded at the end of the 19th century, is based in Segonzac, in the heart of

Grande Champagne. Now in the hands of the fourth generation, the family farms around forty hectares

and produces a portfolio of 6 Cognacs and 6 Pineaux. Today, its main markets are France, Russia, Hong

Kong, New Zealand, Germany and the Caribbean.

Emmanuel Painturaud explains that focusing on the French market has shielded the family business from


A HANDFUL OF MATURE COGNACS WHICH LEND THE SPIRIT ITS MAGIC

EMMANUEL PAINTURAUD IN HIS SEGONZAC

FACILITIES

COGNAC PAINTURAUD’S FOUNDER CAN STILL BE SEEN IN THE

FAMILY CELLAR

the severe downturn witnessed in some export markets. “We are seeing a slowdown abroad but are constantly

exploring new opportunities, particularly through international exhibitions. Developing this sales channel

remains a work in progress. From our perspective, the crisis has only had a moderate impact because we have

no presence in the USA or China. You could even say that France is our saving grace! We have been selling

direct to consumers for 90 years and nearly 50% of our sales come through the cellar door, mostly via wine

tourism, which allows us to constantly connect with new consumers”.

Over the last two years, business has been reasonable. “Despite the current climate, our sales are stable. We

witnessed a slight slowdown last year but nothing alarming – 2023 was a record year for turnover, and at the

moment 2025 seems balanced in relation to 2024. The real challenge is planning ahead. We lack a short or

medium-term vision because the landscape changes so rapidly. The unstable geopolitical situation since the

end of Covid has seriously disrupted business, and global consumption is declining.”

Emmanuel Painturaud naturally hopes for an economic rebound, but the timing is uncertain. “Unfortunately,

Cognac sales continue to decline and industry members are not optimistic about when the crisis will

end. Some speak of five years, others ten… If the conflicts subside, international trade relations stabilise and

prices gradually ease, without undermining the value of our products or our craft, then maybe we can start

to hope for a recovery”.

IS THE END TO THE CRISIS IN SIGHT?

There are certainly a lot of ‘ifs’, but history reminds us that such crises are cyclical – the 1930s, 1970s and 1990s

for example all saw downturns followed by periods that were much more prosperous. What sets 2025 apart

though is the nature of the challenges. They are more complex, more manifold and above all, their effects

ripple across the globe, making resolution slower and more difficult. The Cognac industry, however, remains

resilient and, more importantly, is skilled at letting time take its course.

*Source BNIC

122


MOOR BARRIO,

THE 1,000-BOTTLE

‘BONSAI WINERY’ IN MENDOZA

BY MAURICIO LLAVER

PHOTOGRAPHS: © DIEGO SOSA,


When Cristian Moor and Teresita Barrio married, they created a ‘bonsai

winery’ which is home to their Initium label. Only on such a small scale could

they craft wines to this level of precision.

CRISTIAN MOOR AND TERESITA BARRIO: “WE WERE NOT INSPIRED BY ANY MODEL AND WE IMAGINED THIS PROJECT

WHILE WE WERE OENOLOGY STUDENTS”


ARGENTINA

PORTRAIT

S

ince meeting as students in Mendoza, Argentina, Cristian Moor and Teresita

Barrio have not only been building a family together but also developing a unique

winemaking project, which could be described as ‘the 1,000-bottle winery’. Moor

Barrio Wines is literally a garage winery housing five barrels and two small fermentation

tanks where 1,000 bottles are produced annually. The scale has prompted them

to call it a ‘bonsai winery’, after the Japanese art of keeping a tree or plant small while

still reflecting the passage of time. “Bonsais have mature roots and trunks, which

require meticulous care, similar to that needed to make wine. This is where we pour

our efforts”, explain Cristian and Teresita.

Their venture began in 2011 while both were still studying oenology. In a room in the

house where Teresita grew up, they launched a start-up that “was only made possible

by a chain of favours – many good people helped us in different ways”. The plan was

always to have a single line of wines – Initium – that would never exceed 1,000 bottles

annually. As the family grew, with the birth of the couple’s four daughters, the project

CRISTIAN MOOR AND TERESITA BARRIO:

“WE AIM TO MAKE EXCEPTIONAL WINE IN-HOUSE”

124


INITIUM, MOOR BARRIO’S UNIQUE

LINE IS A GRAN MALBEC,

EXCEPT IN VINTAGES WHEN THE

COUPLE’S DAUGHTERS WERE

BORN – THEN CABERNET FRANC IS

BLENDED WITH MALBEC

became more complex. “Initium is always a Gran Malbec, except in the years when

our daughters were born – then we made a blend of Malbec and Cabernet Franc. We

started in 2016, when our first daughter, Josefina, was born, and we continued in 2019

with Elena, in 2022 with Amparo and finally in 2024, with Sofia”. Right from the outset,

the grapes came from the Uco Valley in Mendoza, from areas such as La Consulta and

Gualtallary.

One of the distinctive features of Initium is that it is only made in harvests where the

grapes reach the level of quality demanded by Cristian and Teresita, even though this

has significant economic implications for such a small project. “In 2015, 2021 and 2023

we didn’t make the wine”, they recount, recalling: “One year we were in the vineyard

with harvesters ready to pick and we decided there and then that the grapes did not

reach the level of quality we were aiming for. The fruit is the parameter of quality, and

you cannot have wine that is higher in quality than the grapes”.

When it comes to defining the project, the couple is clear: “We were not inspired by any

model and we already imagined it while we were studying oenology. Our aim is to make

wine that we would like to drink, with its own identity and with a degree of precision

that cannot be achieved on a large scale. Initium is made with minimal handling and

as little contact with oxygen as possible so that we can achieve extraordinary freshness

and longevity. We aim to make an exceptional wine in-house and we dedicate so much

effort to this goal – we even sign the labels of each of our bottles personally”.


KEVIN COSTNER: “TAKE THE TIME

TO LISTEN TO WINEGROWERS -

THEY’LL TEACH YOU MORE THAN

ANY BOOK COULD”

BY FRANK ROUSSEAU,

OUR CORRESPONDENT IN LOS ANGELES

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Kevin Costner speaks about his passion for wine, born of curiosity

and nurtured through genuine moments of sharing. He reflects on the

uniqueness of every bottle – where history meets serendipity – and joins

us in a candid conversation about a pleasure that has long been part of

the human story.

LÉGENDES

How did your passion for wine begin?

Kevin Costner (laughs): It all began when I had a little money and thought,

“Right, now’s the time to start building a great wine cellar!” Like many

beginners, I thought the best wines were simply the most expensive ones.

I paid far too much because I was convinced that price alone would make

the occasion special. But I soon realised I was mistaken. Wine isn’t about

a number on a label, it’s about the work that goes into it – the sunshine,

the soils, the rain, the grape harvest and the choices of the winegrower.

Everything is so unpredictable, and that’s what makes every bottle fascinating.

Sometimes a €20 wine leaves a more lasting impression than a

€200 one. It’s that unpredictability that drew me in.

KEVIN COSTNER WITH FRANK ROUSSEAU

What advice would you give someone starting out in wine who feels

intimidated?

K.C.: I’d say, don’t overthink it. Forget the conventions and the daunting

labels. Ask your wine merchant what he likes and why. Try a bottle that

speaks to you, even if it’s from an unknown producer. Wine is personal,

it’s not a competition. If you don’t enjoy a wine, that’s fine, you’ve learned

something. The best surprises happen when you follow your instincts.

And if you meet a winegrower, take the time to listen – he’ll teach you

more than any book could.

If a winegrower decided to style wine after you, a special Kevin Costner

label, what would it be like?

K.C. (laughs): A wine styled after me? It would definitely be red, because

I like its warmth. I’d say a Cabernet-Sauvignon, but not something too

heavy or oaky. Matured just enough to give it body but still vibrant, like

someone who has travelled a lot but still has lots of energy left. Clearly, it


WITH KELLY REILLY IN ‘YELLOWSTONE’

WITH DIANE LANE IN ‘LET HIM GO’

LÉGENDES

‘YELLOWSTONE’

‘MCFARLAND’

would be a wine that makes you want to sit down and enjoy some down time. And it would take you

by surprise a little because in life as with wine, serendipity matters.

Have there been occasions when a wine made a particular impression on you, for its taste or what

it represented?

K.C.: Yes, I remember an evening, a few years ago, in a tiny restaurant. The owner brought us a bottle of

red wine that he’d been saving for special occasions. He told us about the winegrower who had nearly

lost everything to a storm but fought hard to save his crop. We drank, we talked and that wine made the

moment unforgettable. It wasn’t just about the taste, it was the whole story behind it – the determination

of this resilient man that you could feel in every sip. The experience has stayed with me ever since.

If you were to pair a wine with a particular moment or emotion, what would you choose?

K.C.: I’d pair a Merlot with a quiet moment, when you’re speaking with someone close about life and

the things that really matter. It has that gentle, welcoming quality. For a party, I’d go with a Zinfandel

for its energy and its black fruit flavours that fit perfectly around a table of laughter. And for time

alone, maybe a Cabernet-Sauvignon – a wine that invites reflection, that makes you think about who

you are and where you stand in life.


127

CONTACT

DETAILS

Champagne – Pages 10-17

• Champagne Georges Vesselle: Tel. + 33 3 26 57 00 15 -

www.champagne-vesselle.fr

• Champagne Lacuisse Frères: Tel. : + 33 3 26 97 64 97 -

www.champagne-lacuisse.fr

• Champagne Philipponnat: Tel. + 33 3 26 56 93 00 -

www.philipponnat.com

• Champagne Beaumont des Crayères: Tel. + 33 3 26 55 29 40 -

www.champagne-beaumont.com

• Champagne de la Renaissance: Tel. + 33 3 26 57 53 90 -

www.champagne-de-la-renaissance.com

Cabernet-Sauvignon – Pages 18-31

• Cantine Ermes Soc. Coop.: Tel. +39 092 467 635 - www.cantineermes.it

• Bodegas Tagua Tagua: Tel. +56 992 692 342 - https://bodegastt.cl

• MAN Wines: Tel. +27 21 874 1134 - www.manwines.com

• Château Montrose: Tel. +33 5 56 59 30 12 - www.chateau-montrose.com

• Château Lascombes: Tel. +33 5 57 88 70 66 -

https://chateau-lascombes.com

• Cox Wine Merchants: Tel. +61 434 561 718 -

https://allegiancewines.com.au/product-category/cox-family-wines/

• Purcari wines: info@ernst-fine-wine.com - https://www.purcari.de

• Ridge Vineyards: Tel. +1 408 867 3233 - www.ridgewine.com

Savoy – Pages 32-39

• Cave de Cruet: Tel. +33 4 79 84 28 52 - www.cavedecruet.com

• Domaine Maréchal: Tel. + 33 6 03 25 41 96 -

www.marechal-apremont.com

• Jean Perrier & Fils: Tel. + 33 4 79 28 11 45 - www.vins-perrier.com

• Domaine des Crocs Blanc: Tel. + 33 7 78 14 44 05 -

https://domainedescrocsblancs.com

South Africa – Pages 40-49

• Jordan: Tel. +27 21 881 3441 - Jordanwines.com

• Lievland: Tel. +27 21 879 7894 - Lievland.co.za

• Strandveld: Tel. +27 28 482 1902 - Strandveld.co.za

• Perdeberg: Tel. +27 21 869 8244 - Perdeberg.co.za

• Waterford: Tel. +27 21 880 5300 - Dial 1 - Waterfordestate.co.za

• Eikendal: Tel. +27 21 855 14 22 - Eikendal.com

Burgundy – Pages 50-57

• Bader Mimeur: Tel. +33 3 80 21 30 22 - www.bader-mimeur.com

• Domaine Chanson: Tel. +33 3 80 25 97 97 - www.domaine-chanson.com

• Domaine Camille & Laurent Schaller: www.chablis-schaller.com

• Domaine de la Côte de Fasse: Tel. +33 3 86 42 46 85 -

www.chablis-cotedefasse.fr

• Domaine des Chauchoux: Tel. +33 3 85 87 12 94 -

www.domainedeschauchoux.com

Lugana – Pages 58-66

• Morenica: Tel. +39 30 910 31 09 - www.perladelgarda.it

• Cà Maiol: Tel. +39 030 991 00 06 - www.camaiol.it

• Le Morette - Azienda Agricola Valerio Zenato: Tel. +39 045 755 27 24 -

www.lemorette.it

• Pasini - San Giovani: Tel. +39 03 65 65 14 19 - www.pasiniproduttori.it

• Azienda Agricola Ca’ dei Frati: Tel. +39 030 919 4681 - www.cadeifrati.it

• Tenuta Roveglia: Tel. +39 030 918 393 - https://tenutaroveglia.com

• Famiglia Olivini: Tel. +39 030 991 02 68 - www.famigliaolivini.com

• Azienda Vitivinicola Righetti: Tel. + 39 4 57 15 11 88 - www.righettienzo.it

Champagne – Pages 67-73

• Champagne Charles Clément: Tel. +33 3 25 92 50 70 -

www.champagne-charles-clement.fr

• Champagne de Barfontarc: Tel. +33 3 25 27 07 09 -

www.champagne-barfontarc.com

• Champagne Urbain Père & Fils: Tel. +33 3 25 27 00 36 -

www.champagne-urbain.fr

• Champagne Denis Marx: Tel. +33 3 26 52 71 96 -

www.champagne-denis-marx.com

• Champagne Denis Bovière: Tel. +33 3 26 49 43 40 -

www.champagne-boviere.com

• Champagne Alain David et Fils: Tel. +33 3 26 58 41 76

Portugal – Pages 74-77

• Vicentino: Tel. +351 914 549 870 - www.vicentinowines.com/en.html

Alsace – Pages 78-85

• Domaine Materne Haegelin et Filles: Tel. +33 3 89 76 95 17 -

www.materne-haegelin.fr

• Maison Zoeller: Tel. +33 6 60 85 33 49 - www.vins-zoeller.fr

• Domaine Huber & Bléger: Tel. +33 3 89 73 01 12 - www.huber-bleger.fr

• Cave Jean Geiler: Tel. +33 3 89 27 90 27 - www.geiler.fr

• Maison Gustave Lorentz: Tel. +33 3 89 73 22 22 -

www.gustavelorentz.com

• Bestheim: Tel. +33 3 89 49 08 63 - www.bestheim.com

Argentina – Pages 86-89

• Catena Institute of wine: Tel. +54 (261) 413 1100 -

https://www.catenainstitute.com/

Turkey – Pages 90-97

• Kayra: Tel. +90 212 373 4400 - https://www.diageoturkiye.com/

markalarimiz/urettigimiz-ickiler/urettigimiz-sarap.html

• Ni-C: Tel. +90 533 712 7041 - www.nicevineyards.com

• Kavaklıdere: Tel. +90 312 847 5073 - https://kavaklidere.com

• Küp: Tel. +90 258 755 7457 - https://kupsarap.com

• Suvla: www.suvla.com.tr

• Arcadia: Tel. +90 533 514 14 90 - https://arcadiavineyards.com

• Lermonos: Tel. +90 530 847 6269 - www.lermonos.com

• Paşaeli: Tel. +90 232 463 2952 - https://pasaeli.com

• Kuzubağ: Tel. +90 549 850 0220 - www.kuzubag.com

128


CONTACT

DETAILS

• Yaban Kolektif: Tel. +90 532 065 3774 -

https://yabankolektif.com

• 7 Bilgeler: Tel. +90 531 991 3634 - www.yedibilgeler.com

• Sevilen: Tel. +90 256 577 4008 - www.sevilengroup.com

• Prodom: Tel. +90 532 593 8885

• Kuzeybağ: info@kuzeybag.com -

https://kuzeybag.com/urunler/

• Corvus: Tel. +90 286 697 8181

• Antioche: Tel. +90 326 451 2400 - www.antioche.com

• Shıluh: Tel. +90 532 328 1113 - www.shiluh.com.tr

• Midin: Tel. +90 539 601 58 87 - www.midinwine.com

• Doluca: Tel. +90 212213 40 00 - www.doluca.com

• Chamlıja: Tel. +90 530 388 8484 - www.chamlija-wine.com

USA – Pages 98-100

• Morlet Family Vineyards: Tel. +1 (707) 967 8690 -

https://morletwines.com/

Spain – Pages 102-105

• Art Laietà : Tel. +34 934 693 720 - altaalella.wine

Paris – Pages 106-107

• Vinexposium: www.vinexposium.com/

Bordeaux – Pages 108-113

• Château Cadet-Bon: Tel. +33 5 57 74 43 20 - www.cadet-bon.com

• Vignobles Rollet: Tel. +33 5 57 56 10 22 - www.vignoblesrollet.com

• Château Saint-Georges: Tel. +33 5 57 74 62 11 -

www.chateau-saint-georges.com

United Kingdom – Pages 114-117

• Boutinot: Tel. +44 161 908 1300 - https://boutinot.com/

Cognac – Pages 118-122

• Cognac Michelet: Tel. +33 6 84 23 95 47 - eric.michelet@wanadoo.fr

• Domaine Jacques Painturaud: Tel. +33 5 45 83 40 24 -

http://www.cognacpainturaud.com/

• Prulho (Compagnie Française des Spiritueux): Tel. +33 5 45 81 01 60 -

http://www.compagnie-francaise-spiritueux.fr

Argentina – Pages 123-125

• Cristian Moor: +54 9 261 5972922

7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France - Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88

Editorial Directors:

François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard

Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard

Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe Gaillard,

Sylvain Patard, François Bezuidenhout, Olivier

Delorme, Gonzalo Fernandez, Nicholas Hutchinson

Contributors to this issue: Levon Bağış, Ellen Budge,

Camille Bernard, Jean-Paul Burias, Alain Echalier,

Isabelle Escande, Etienne Gaillard, Mauricio Llaver,

Sylvain Patard, Jamal Rayyis, Samarie Smith, Frank

Rousseau

Translation: Sharon Nagel, Marika Quarti, CS Traduções

Sales and Marketing Director:

Etienne Gaillard : +33 6 30 97 87 26

etienne@gilbertgaillard.com

Advertising France:

Bordeaux: Frédéric Comet:

+33 6 27 58 47 06 - fcomet@gilbertgaillard.com

Corsica - Languedoc - Provence - Rhône Valley:

Nicolas Sanseigne: +33 6 46 86 80 01 -

nsanseigne@gilbertgaillard.com

Loire Valley - Savoy - Roussillon:

Caroline Gilbert: +33 6 84 92 57 61 -

caroline@gilbertgaillard.com

Alsace -Beaujolais - Burgundy - Champagne -

Jura - South West:

Marianne Baills: +33 6 77 72 16 04 -

mbaills@gilbertgaillard.com

Charentes and samples manager France:

Sandrine Thibault: +33 6 62 76 07 15 -

s.thibault@gilbertgaillard.com

Advertising Italy: Sandra Sirvente:

(+33) 7 63 87 13 13 - ssirvente@gilbertgaillard.com

Advertising Spain, Portugal: Thibault Leray:

(+33) 6 84 01 57 24 - tleray@gilbertgaillard.com

Advertising Central and Eastern Europe:

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pricros@gilbertgaillard.com

Advertising Latam: Vivien Morvan:

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+33 6 87 27 12 65

Gilbert & Gaillard Tasting South-Africa:

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petru@gilbertgaillard.com

Olivier Duroy, Area Manager: +27 72 389 1083 -

oduroy@gilbertgaillard.com

Matthieu Gaillard, Brand Ambassador: +27 66 429 9219

International Distribution: Pineapple Media Ltd -

http://

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Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head Office: 7 parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal representative and Editorial

director: Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: Fourth quarter 2025 • Legal publication n° pending: ISSN 2110-6762 • Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any form

is expressly prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articles are given for information only and have no publicity purpose.


129

PAGES 131 TO 146

TOP WINES

OUR SELECTION

WILL 2025 FULLY DELIVER ON ITS PROMISE?

Slightly more generous than 2024, the 2025 vintage is, above all, extremely consistent thanks

to a ‘normal’ growing season. It produced ripe, healthy fruit displaying good acidity and is

likely to rank among top quality vintages like the recent 2018s and 2022s. Across Europe, the

harvest produced chequered results with notably short crops in Spain, Portugal and Germany.

Only Italy came in average, along with a few countries in Central Europe (Hungary, Romania

and Austria) where the scales tipped towards surplus.

CAPPADOCIA, IN CENTRAL TURKEY, IS RENOWNED FOR ITS DISTINCTIVE ROCK FORMATIONS – ITS FAIRY CHIMNEYS – AND ITS WINES

OUR TOP AUTUMN-WINTER 2025 TASTINGS

Our selection, based solely on the comments and scores of our tasting panel as always, is presented on pages

118 to 146. As is customary, we have chosen to present the wines by country (FRANCE, ITALY…) then by

appellation for each region, with the name of the company or the chateau listed in alphabetical and descending

order depending on the scores.

This final issue for 2025 features a broad overview of France’s wine regions with Alsace, Burgundy, Champagne,

Cognac and Savoy.We also invite you on a journey further afield, to the shores of Lake Garda in Italy

to discover Lugana DOC wines, and to Turkey, the cradle of native grape varieties with their signature styles.

And finally to South Africa, where we have curated an outstanding selection of wines from the Western Cape

across all three colours.

THE TASTING PANEL:

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS GILBERT - SYLVAIN PATARD

FRANÇOIS BEZUIDENHOUT - OLIVIER DELORME – GONZALO FERNANDEZ - NICHOLAS HUTCHINSON


OUR SELECTION

ALSACE

Stretching along a slender ribbon of hillsides at

the foot of the Vosges, Alsace enjoys a fairly dry

micro-climate that heightens the summer and

autumn sunshine. This extended growing season

is ideal for white grapes, which account for

90% of production under AOP Alsace, by far the

region’s dominant appellation. From Riesling

and Pinot Gris to Gewurztraminer, Muscat and

Sylvaner, Alsace offers a spectrum of expressions

just waiting for you to discover the style you love.

ALSACE EDELZWICKER

JEAN BIECHER 90/100

ORG • D MARIE - ORGANIC RÉSERVE 2022:

Beautiful bright, light gold. Intense nose of ripe

fruits with plum and apricot tones. The palate is

augmented by floral notes that border on exotic. This

is a fresh, harmonious, persistent wine for pleasure.

Price: €10

Jean Biecher +33 3 89 73 00 14

ALSACE GEWURZTRAMINER

DOMAINE RENÉ FLECK 94/100

ORG • D SÉLECTION DE GRAINS NOBLES

2022: Golden yellow hue. Honeyed, candied nose of

apricot, plum, and quince. The palate is nicely balanced,

revealing an infinitely tender sweetness

that enhances the depth and brilliance of the fruit.

Intense freshness. Built to age, yet very pleasurable now.

http://www.renefleck.com Price: € 29.60

Domaine René Fleck +33 3 89 47 01 20

CAVE DE RIBEAUVILLÉ 92/100

• D SÉLECTION DE GRAINS NOBLES GRANDE

RÉSERVE 2017: Rich golden hue. Rich nose of

honey and exotic fruit notes. Dense on the palate,

yet remarkably fresh. The same aromas, full of

finesse and elegance are present. A very fine bottle.

http://www.vins-ribeauville.com Price: € 23.50

Cave de Ribeauvillé +33 3 89 73 61 80

CAVE DE HUNAWIHR 90/100

• D 7 TALENTS 2024: Alluring, glistening golden

hue. Very pure nose offering up a blend of

floral, peppery and exotic notes. The palate is heady

and very well-balanced with aromatic overtones

of ginger and beeswax. Great varietal expression.

http://www.geiler.fr Price: 775

Cave de Hunawihr +33 3 89 27 90 27

ORG • D MILLÉSIME 2023: Shimmering

gold colour. Extremely delicate nose of honey,

dried fruits, lychee, rose and sweet spices. Tender

and suave on the palate with a vibrant feel. The

aromas offer great energy and pure mellowness.

The balance is velvety yet not overly opulent.

Price: €12.75

André Regin +33 3 88 38 17 02

CAVE DE BEBLENHEIM

• D RÉSERVE 2022

88/100

http://www.cave-beblenheim.com Price: € 9.40

Cave de Beblenheim +33 3 89 47 90 02

E.TRABER 88/100

CR • D VINTAGE 2021

http://www.vins-ribeauville.com Price: €11.70

E.Traber +33 3 89 73 61 80

GUSTAVE LORENTZ 88/100

• D RÉSERVE 2024

Price: € 15.75

Gustave Lorentz +33 3 89 73 22 22

HUBER & BLÉGER 87/100

CR • D MILLÉSIME 2024

http://www.huber-bleger.fr Price: € 10.70

Huber & Bléger +33 3 89 73 01 12

ALSACE GRAND CRU PINOT

KLINGENFUS 90/100

CR • D BRUDERTHAL 2020: Hop-yellow

hue. The nose exudes candied fruit (almond,

quince, mirabelle, apricot), with honeyed and

pastry-like notes. Well-structured, delicate yet

measured sweetness, revealing ripe and

ANDRÉ REGIN 90/100

concentrated fruit. A perfect match for blue-veined

cheeses.

MAISON ZOELLER 90/100

ORG • D LES ORCHIDÉES 2022: Beautiful, luminous

golden colour. Rich bouquet dominated by

exotic fruits. Fresh attack with distinctive aromas of

pepper, flowers and exotic fruit. Plenty of character.

http://www.vins-zoeller.fr Price: € 13

Maison Zoeller +33 3 88 48 88 59

http://www.robert-klingenfus.com/ Price: € 16

Klingenfus +33 3 88 38 07 06

ALSACE GRAND CRU RIESLING


ORG • D ALTENBERG DE WOLXHEIM 2021:

Sparkling golden yellow colour. Extremely

delicate bouquet, expressing minerality at first,

evolving towards a smoky quality. Perfectly

expressed, ample, intense and persistent throughout.

A grand cru on the cusp of a great destiny.

http://www.vins-zoeller.fr Price: €15


ROBERT FALLER ET FILS 91/100

CR • D GEISBERG 2022: Beautiful, brilliant

yellow-gold. Racy nose combining citrus, yellow

fruits, fine spices and a mineral accent. Ample,

ripe palate where the chiselled aromatics are

enhanced by ideal exuberance. Shier than on the

nose but it’s just a question of time. Beautiful.

http://www.vins-faller-robert.fr Price: € 32

Robert Faller et Fils +33 3 89 73 60 47

ALSACE PINOT BLANC

CAVE DE HUNAWIHR 90/100

• D 7 TALENTS 2024: Clear, light gold.

Very enticing nose of fresh grapes. The palate

is fleshy, fruity and driven by faultless

freshness. The finish is long, crisp and persistent.


Cave de Hunawihr +33 3 89 27 90 27


131

OUR SELECTION

ALSACE PINOT GRIS

BESTHEIM 90/100

• D PREMIUM RÉSERVE 2021: Beautiful light gold

colour. Deep, mineral and fruity nose, very elegant.

In the mouth, a distinctive attack dominated by the

acidulous flavours of the fruit. The finish is racy,

persistent and tinged with elegant mineral touches.

http://www.bestheim.com Price: € 10.99

Bestheim +33 3 89 49 09 29

DOMAINE MATERNE HAEGELIN ET 90/100

ORG • D TRADITION 2022: Delightful pale

gold hue. Pleasant nose combining floral and

fruity notes. Generous attack on the palate,

with ripe aromas dominated by fruit. Clean,

acidic and fresh on the finish. Beautiful balance.

http://www.materne-haegelin.fr Price: € 12

Domaine Materne Haegelin et filles +33 3 89 76 95 17

JEAN GEILER 89/100

• D OA018 + I215 2023


Jean Geiler +33 3 89 27 90 27



http://www.huber-bleger.fr Price: 910

Huber & Bléger +33 3 89 73 01 12


CR • D RSERVE 2024

Price: € 12.95




http://www.huber-bleger.fr Price: 880

Huber & Bléger +33 3 89 73 01 12

ALSACE PINOT NOIR


CONV • D ELEVÉ EN BARRIQUES 2020: Striking

ruby-red hue. Very ripe nose of small red stone

fruits. Same crispness on the palate. The finish is

firmer yet very harmonious, with plenty of fruit.

http://www.materne-haegelin.fr Price: € 17

Domaine Materne Haegelin et +33 3 89 76 95 17

ALSACE RIESLING


CONV • D LIPPELSBERG TRADITION 2021:

Dazzling golden yellow hue. Expressive, typical nose,

combining ripe fruit with a mineral dimension. Very

precise on the palate, offering the same aromatic

sincerity. Generous, persistent and elegant finish.

http://www.materne-haegelin.fr Price: €14

Domaine Materne Haegelin et filles +33 3 89 76 95 17


ORG • D WOLXHEIM 2022: Radiant

golden yellow colour. Extremely pure bouquet

revealing a highly successful combination of

white fruit and minerality. Marked varietal

character where the terroir makes a major

contribution. The finish is clean, persistent and very

pure.

http://www.vins-zoeller.fr Price: 900


RUHLMANN SCHUTZ

90/100

• D RIESLING VIEILLES VIGNES 2024: Clear,

light-gold hue. Very pleasant nose offering

intense fruit notes combined with a touch of

honey and honeysuckle. Generous attack on

the palate, carrying the same intense, moreish

aromas. The finish is persistent. A successful vintage.

Price: 13

http://www.ruhlmann-schutz.fr

Ruhlmann Schutz +33 3 88 92 41 86


• D RÉSERVE 2024

Price: € 12.50


CAVE DU ROI DAGOBERT 87/100

CR • D RIESLING RÉSERVE 2023

http://www.cave-dagobert.com Price: 899

Cave du Roi Dagobert +33 3 88 50 69 00

THE FAMOUS ALSACE WINE ROUTE


OUR SELECTION

BOURGOGNE

Though the regional appellation may not be

Burgundy’s most famous, it offers a remarkably

faithful snapshot of this illustrious wine

region. Positioned at the base of the quality pyramid,

it nonetheless has the ability to produce

wines showing striking purity and honesty,

offering a glimpse of the elegance found higher

up in the range. Add to that its refreshingly

accessible pricing – an invitation to indulge

without hesitation. The proof is in the glass.

GENETIE ILLUMINÉ 89/100

• D CHARDONNAY 2021

https://www.boutinot.com/ Price: € 18

Genetie Illuminé +39 0141 763 11

DORMY 89/100

ORG • D PINOT NOIR - TRADITION 2023

https:/www./dormywine.com/ Price: € 16

Dormy +33 3 85 50 06 76

COMBE ST-JEAN 87/100

• GAMAY 2024

http://www.badetclement.com

Price:

Combe St-Jean +33 3 80 61 46 31

DORMY 87/100

ORG • D AUTHENTIC 2023

https:/www./dormywine.com/ Price: € 16

Dormy +33 3 85 50 06 76

BOURGOGNE

DOMAINE CHAPELLE 90/100

ORG • D PINOT NOIR 2023: Beautiful light red

colour. Very pure nose of red fruit, with a discreet

touch of earthy undertones. Harmonious, crisp

attack on the palate, with a fleshy evolution and fruit

present right through to the finish.

http://www.domainechapelle.com Price: € 20

Domaine Chapelle +33 3 80 20 60 09

DOMAINE DE ROCHEBIN 90/100

CR • D CLOS SAINT-GERMAIN - CHARDONNAY

2023: Beautiful pale yellow hue. Clean nose with

vibrant fruity aromas of fresh grapes. On the palate, the

same clean, fruity profile expresses itself in complete

simplicity. A taut, fresh finish. A very pleasant wine.

Price: € 13

Domaine de Rochebin +33 3 85 33 33 37

BOYER - DE BAR 90/100

• D CUVÉE VALENTINE 2022: Bright yellow hue

with subtle green highlights. Typical nose of ripe fruit

with hints of hazelnut and toasted bread, inviting.

The palate is racy and full of charm, mirroring the

aromas of the nose with an exceptionally refined

texture.

https:/www./boyer-debar.fr/ Price: €16.50

Boyer - de Bar

GENETIE ILLUMINÉ 89/100


DORMY 88/100

ORG • D RENAISSANCE 2023

https:/www./dormywine.com/ Price: € 18.50

Dormy +33 3 85 50 06 76



Price: € 10



• D CLOS SAINT-GERMAIN - PINOT NOIR 2023

Price: €13


LOUIS JACQUARD 88/100

CR • D CHARDONNAY 2023

Louis Jacquard

Price: €19

BOYER - DE BAR 88/100

• D PINOT NOIR 2022

DOMAINE CHÊNE 87/100

CR • D PINOT NOIR 2023

Price: €12

Domaine Chêne +33 3 85 37 65 90

DOMAINE CHAPELLE 86/100

ORG • D CHARDONNAY - LES PIÉCES 2023

http://www.domainechapelle.com Price: €18

Domaine Chapelle +33 3 80 20 60 09



Price: € 10


CHANSON 85/100


https://www.domaine-chanson.com/

Price: €21.40

Chanson +33 3 80 25 97 97

DOMAINE DE LA CÔTE DE FASSE 85/100


https://www.boutinot.com/ Price: €18

Genetie Illuminé +39 0141 763 11

https:/www./boyer-debar.fr/ Price: €16.50

Boyer - de Bar

Price: €9

Domaine de la Côte de Fasse +33 3 86 42 46 85


133

OUR SELECTION

VINEYARDS IN BURGUNDY ARE PLANTED TO HIGH DENSITIES


OUR SELECTION

CHAMPAGNE

We sampled hundreds of Champagnes to curate

this hand-picked selection, showcasing talented

grower-producers alongside prestigious brands

and renowned co-operatives. Our feature report

highlights the full breadth of Champagne

styles, making it easy to spot high-quality bottles

priced between €15 and €50 at a glance.

CHAMPAGNE GEORGES VESSELLE 95/100

CR • D BRUT GRAND CRU JULINE : Beautiful

golden-yellow hue. Complex nose of dried fruit

and beeswax showing fine maturity. The palate

opens broad and full, extending into intense, noble

aromas. Remarkable, complex and persistent finish.

http://www.champagne-vesselle.fr Price: €49.50

Champagne Georges Vesselle +33 3 26 57 00 15

CHAMPAGNE BEAUMONT DES 94/100

CR • D BRUT NATURE COLLECTION PRI-

VÉE 2009: Clear golden-yellow hue. Generous

nose combining pastry and fruity tones. On the

palate, a superb texture, freshness, splendid

balance, and remarkable expression. The finish

builds in intensity and length. A truly superb bottle.

http://www.champagne-beaumont.com

Champagne Beaumont des

Crayéres

CHAMPAGNE

Price: €110

+33 3 26 55 29 40

CHAMPAGNE DE BARFONTARC 92/100

CR • D BRUT SAINTE GERMAINE 2016:

Pale bright and clear gold hue. The nose is

well-ripened and expressive, blending small

red fruits with patisserie notes. The mellow and

delicate palate is very expressive, in the same open

and charming profile. A cuvée to enjoy at the table.

http://www.champagne-barfontarc.com

Price: €33

Champagne de Barfontarc +33 3 25 27 07 09


CHAMPAGNE PHILIPPONNAT 92/100

HVE • D BRUT RÉSERVE PERPÉTUELLE :

Beautiful golden hue. Ripe fruit-filled nose

oscillating between candied and dried fruit notes.

Rich, dense yet taut attack on the palate. Very

harmonious, full-bodied cuvée appreciated for its

pleasant length. Suitable for both aperitif and table.

http://www.philipponnat.com Price: € 49

Champagne Philipponnat +33 3 26 56 93 00


CR • D EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU BLANC DE

NOIRS : Delightful light-yellow hue. Expansive,

fruit-driven nose recalling dried

fig. Racy, full-bodied palate, revealing fine,

silky bubbles and a lingering fig finish.

http://www.champagne-vesselle.fr Price: € 43.50


CHAMPAGNE ALAIN DAVID 90/100

• D BRUT BULLES DORÉES : Beautiful

pale gold. The nose shows an absolutely

delightful fusion of white fruits and hazelnut. The

palate combines freshness, fleshy character and

aromatic intensity in a consummate varietal

style. A chiselled Champagne for grilled shellfish.

Price: €23

Champagne Alain David +33 3 26 58 41 76


CR • D BRUT VIEILLES VIGNES CUVÉE RENÉ

: Light gold with pink highlights. Pleasant,

fruit-forward nose blending apple and red berry fruit

notes. The palate is ballasted by great tension and

showcases more of the same, delectable aromatics. The

fullness and aromatic persistence are a true delight.

Price: €31


CHAMPAGNE CHARLES CLÉMENT 90/100

• D BRUT 100% CHARDONNAY : Lovely clear,

light yellow. Very clean nose of white fruits with a

subtle biscuit touch. The palate is very delicate

right from the start and shows more of the same

chiselled aromatics with convincing balance throughout.

http://www.champagne-charles-clement.

fr Price: €29.80

Champagne Charles Clément +33 3 25 92 50 71

CHAMPAGNE DE LA RENAISSANCE 90/100

• D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND CRU CUVÉE BRUT

PLUS : Superb golden yellow hue. Intensely ripe on the nose

revealing white fruit aromas and a subtle exotic touch. On the

palate, a full and fresh attack, displaying the same aromatic

profile. A well-rounded cuvée that can be enjoyed at the table.

https://www.champagne-de-la-renaissance.com/accueil/

Price: € 26

Champagne de la Renaissance +33 3 26 57 53 90

CHAMPAGNE BEAUMONT DES CRAYÈRES 90/100

CR • D EXTRA BRUT FLEUR NOIRE 2018:

Beautiful, shimmering light gold hue. Nose of small

red berries and pleasant biscuit notes. The palate

offers a pleasing vinosity and well-defined aromas.

A full-bodied, lively cuvée best enjoyed at the table.


Price: €46

Champagne Beaumont des

Crayères +33 3 26 55 29 40

CHAMPAGNE BEAUMONT DES CRAYÈRES 90/100

CR • D BRUT FLEUR BLANCHE 2019: Fine light

gold hue. Incredibly pure fruity nose, evoking

perfectly ripe apple. The palate offers greater

complexity, with the fruit evolving towards notes

of frangipane and toasted bread. Indulgent yet

beautifully fresh finish. Perfectly crafted vintage.


Price: €47

Champagne Beaumont des Crayères

+33 3 26 55 29 40

CR • D EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU BLANC DE

BLANCS : Striking golden-yellow hue. Expressive,

open nose of dried fruit. The palate mirrors this

appealing aromatic profile, supported by fine tension

and a long, persistent finish. A wine of real pedigree.

http://www.champagne-vesselle.fr Price: €45.50


TYPICAL CHAMPAGNE LANDSCAPES IN THE MONTAGNE DE REIMS AREA


135

OUR SELECTION

CHAMPAGNE LACUISSE FRÈRES 90/100

• D BRUT NATURE BLANC DE BLANCS FÛT DE

CHÊNE 2019: Lovely yellow-gold. The nose is open

and leans towards dried fruits, cacao and nuts. The

palate replicates this aromatic theme, offering up

a blend of complexity and austerity. This is a subtle

Champagne that probably deserves to be decanted.

https://www.champagne-lacuisse.fr/ Price: €50

Champagne Lacuisse Frères +33 3 26 97 64 97

CHAMPAGNE URBAIN PÈRE & FILS 90/100

HVE • D BRUT BLANC DE NOIRS : Beautiful

golden hue with iridescent reflections. The nose is

intense and distinctive, showing red berry fruits

dominated by raspberry. The palate is silky and

energetic, delivering vibrant fruit. This is a very pure

Champagne that is also gifted with lovely length.

https://www.champagne-urbain.fr/ Price: €18.10

Champagne Urbain Père & Fils +33 3 25 27 00 36

CHAMPAGNE DE LA RENAISSANCE 89/100

• D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND CRU

CUVÉE SAUVAGE

https://www.champagne-de-la-renaissance.com/accueil/

Price: €26

Champagne de la Renaissance +33 3 26 57 53 90


• D BRUT HARMONIE ROSÉ

Price: €20


CHAMPAGNE CHARLES CLÉMENT 88/100

• D BRUT CUVÉ DES VIGNERONS


fr Price: €22.80

Champagne Charles Clément +33 3 25 92 50 71

CHAMPAGNE GUSTAVE CLÉMENT 88/100

• 0 BRUT CUVÉE KAMI


fr Price: €30

Champagne Gustave Cl√©ment +33 3 25 92 50 71


CR • D BRUT HÉRITAGE N°50


Price: €26



CR • D BRUT BLANC DE NOIRS CARACTÈRE

N°19


Price: €28


GRAPE PICKERS IN ACTION IN CRAMANT, IN THE CÔTE DES BLANCS


OUR SELECTION

CHAMPAGNE’S UNDULATING CELLARS FILLED WITH RIDDLING RACKS

CHAMPAGNE DENIS BOVIÈRE 88/100

• D BRUT GRAND CRU PRESTIGE

https://www.champagne-boviere.com/

Price: € 19

Champagne Denis Bovière +33 3 26 49 43 40

CHAMPAGNE DENIS MARX 88/100

• D BRUT TRADITION

http://www.champagne-denis-marx.com

Price: € 15

Champagne Denis Marx +33 3 26 52 71 96


HVE • D BRUT BLANC DE NOIRS

https://www.champagne-urbain.fr/ Price: €19.10



HVE • D BRUT CARTE BLANCHE

https://www.champagne-urbain.fr/ Price: € 19.50



CR • D BRUT GRAND CRU TRADITION

https://www.champagne-boviere.com/ Price: € 18



• D BRUT GRANDE RÉSERVE


Price: € 16.50



• D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS CUVÉE SPÉCIALE

GRANDE RÉSERVE


Price: €17.50



• D BRUT BLANC DE NOIRS GRAND CRU

https://www.champagne-boviere.com/

Price: € 22.30


CHAMPAGNE LACUISSE FRÈRES 86/100

• D BRUT 1ER CRU ADAGIO EN BULLES

https://www.champagne-lacuisse.fr/ Price: € 30

Champagne Lacuisse Frères +33 3 26 97 64 97


137

OUR SELECTION

SAVOIE

A treasure trove of discoveries, Savoy is an

upwardly mobile region whose wines – primarily

whites – are now scaling heights that once

seemed out of reach. This progress is the result

of collective dedication, yielding more carefully

crafted wines marked by character and finesse.

A cursory glance at their scores says it all: these

wines rightfully deserve their place on our tables

– and on the lists of discerning restaurants.

CAVE DE CRUET 88/100

• 0 SUBLIME 2024

http://www.cavedecruet.com Price: € 7.50

Cave de Cruet +33 4 79 84 28 52

VIN DE SAVOIE


• 0 FLEUR BLANCHE 2024

LES CROCS BLANCS 89/100

CONV • D SALUT À TOI ! 2023

https://domainedescrocsblancs.com/ Price: €14

Les Crocs Blancs + 33 7 78 14 44 05

VIN DE SAVOIE APREMONT

JEAN PERRIER & FILS

89/100

CR • D CUVÉE GASTRONOMIE 2024

CRÉMANT DE SAVOIE


• 0 BRUT


Cave de Cruet +33 4 79 84 28 52

VIN DE SAVOIE ABYMES

http://www.vins-perrier.com Price: € 8.50

Jean Perrier & Fils +33 4 79 28 11 45

VIN DE SAVOIE APREMONT


Cave de Cruet +33 4 79 84 28 52

CRÉMANT DE SAVOIE


CONV • D GOD SAVE THE ALTESSE 2023:

Golden hue. Creamy and fruit-filled nose (white

fruit), lifted by aromatic herbs and white flowers.

The palate impresses with its clarity and freshness.

Moving aromatic sincerity combining fruit and

delicate bitters. Wine of great purity and precision.

https://domainedescrocsblancs.com/


CHÂTEAU DE MONTERMINOD 92/100

• D MILLÉSIME 2023: Light yellow hue. Nose of

ripe yellow fruit with patisserie notes and refined

floral hints. Very lively palate revealing a richly layered

aromatic palette without tipping into heaviness.

Finish unfolds with delicate bitters.

A captivating cuvée.

http://www.vins-perrier.com Price: € 18

Château de Monterminod +33 4 79 28 11 45

DOMAINE DUPASQUIER 90/100

CR • D MILLÉSIME 2021: Light yellow colour.

Fragrant nose of yellow-fleshed fruit (apricot, peach),

heady floral sensation. Dense on the palate, revealing

a very fleshy fruity structure. The whole offers a very

elegant texture. The substance is rich,

deep and luscious.

Price: € 13

Domaine Dupasquier +33 4 79 44 02 23


CONV • D ON THE ROAD AGAIN

2023: Luminous golden hue. Nose of

confectionery, yellow‚ fleshed fruit, and acacia

blossom. Precise, full, and generous palate with

lively aromatic expression. Tension balanced by

gentle bitters on the finish. Crafted for bold cuisine.

https://domainedescrocsblancs.com/ Price: € 30


MOUNT GRANIER OVERLOOKING APREMONT

FLEUR DE ROUSSANNE 90/100

CR • D MILLÉSIME 2024: Golden hue. I

ntense nose blending pear, apricot, dried

fruit, with touches of white liquorice and

toasted bread. Generous palate combining saline

expression, gentle bitters and fresh finish.

Fragrant, tender Roussanne to try with baked cheese.

http://www.vins-perrier.com Price: €18

Fleur de Roussanne +33 4 79 28 11 45


OUR SELECTION

COGNAC

A jewel of French craftsmanship, Cognac finds

itself navigating turbulent times shaped by

economic, political and even military conflicts

which are wreaking havoc on our planet. Yet

amid the turmoil, there is solace to be found

in a craft rooted in centuries of tradition. Our

latest selection invites you to pause, reflect and

savour these timeless nectars, which are poised

to endure long after today’s storms have passed.

COGNAC

COMPAGNIE FRANCAISE DES

SPIRITUEUX

92/100

• D PRULHO XO: Coppery hue with

flame-like glints. Very delicate nose with

notes of cooked fruit, exotic wood and a

subtle hint of coffee. The palate charms with its

beautiful texture, lively aromas and persistence, in

a well-rounded style combining wood and spice.

http://www.compagnie-francaise-spiri- Price: € 125

Compagnie Francaise des +33 5 45 81 01 60

HUGO D’OR 90/100

• D EXTRA XO OLD : Beautiful copper hue

with fiery reflections. Very ripe nose with hints of

spices, citrus fruit and a delicate note of orange

peel. Powerful on the palate, where the oak is

still very present, with a firm, very spicy finish.

Hugo d’Or +33 6 16 45 73 14

BARON D’YLLAC 90/100

• D VS : Alluring orangey hue. Fruity nose

showing lovely youthfulness that even delivers

a few floral touches. The palate is similarly

youthful and offers up more of the same, very

charming aromatics. This is a lively, refreshing Cognac.

Price: € 13.89

Baron d’Yllac +33 5 45 90 55 45

COGNAC GRANDE

CHAMPAGNE

HUGO 95/100

• D RÉSERVE ROYALE - 60 ANS D’AGE - 1ER

CRU DE COGNAC : Beautiful coppery hue with

fiery glints.

The racy nose evokes ripe fig, exotic wood

and spices, all underscored by a subtle hint of

rancio. The palate displays incredible fullness, with

clean aromas and controlled power. A work of art!

Hugo

Price: € 500

COGNAC FRAPIN 95/100

• D 27 ANS D’AGE 1997: Orange-tinted hue

with fiery glints. The nose conveys youthful energy

with dried-fruit aromas. Intense, generous palate

maintaining its power through to the finish within an

elegant, spiced-woody register. A vintage in its prime.

http://www.cognac-frapin.com Price: € 205

Cognac Frapin +33 5 45 83 40 03

PAINTURAUD FRÈRES 93/100

HVE • D XO : Stellar coppery hue with fiery

tints. Pleasant nose of prunes and precious wood.

The palate is very elegant with the same open

aromatics displaying abundant freshness. This is

a full, persistent and beautifully crafted Cognac.

http://www.cognacpainturaud.com/ Price: €89

Painturaud Frères +33 5 45 83 40 24

PAINTURAUD FRÈRES 92/100

HVE • D RÉSERVE : Beautiful orangey hue. Very

endearing nose of dried fruits and citrus.

The palate reveals a very clean Cognac

with forthright aromatics and lots of

freshness. The lingering finish stays very fruity.

http://www.cognacpainturaud.com/ Price: €46

Painturaud Frères +33 5 45 83 40 24

PRULHO 90/100

• D EXTRA : Resplendent coppery hue with

mahogany glints. Very expressive nose, combining

prune, dried fruit and elegant woody notes.

Texture, aromatic quality and intensity: all the

ingredients of a great cognac. An exceptional bottle.

http://www.compagnie-francaise-spiri-

Price: € 90

Prulho +33 5 45 81 01 60

LOUIS GRIMAUD 90/100

• D VSOP : Beautiful orangey hue with

mahogany tints. Young, fruit-driven nose.

The palate is fairly massive in style yet retains

lovely freshness that couples with clean fruity

and spicy aromatics in this characterful brandy.

http://www.cognac-thorin.com Price: € 39.90

Louis Grimaud +33 5 45 83 33 46

MICHELET 90/100

• D XO : Delighful copper hue with orangey glints.

Lovely nose of dried fruit, combining apricot with

blood orange, etc. The palate seduces with its texture,

silkiness and chiselled aromas. A charming cognac.

Price: €85

Michelet +33 6 84 23 95 47


• D VS

http://www.cognac-thorin.com Price: €30

Louis Grimaud +33 5 45 83 33 46

PINEAU DES CHARENTES


• D BLANC : Beautiful deep golden hue. Crisp

fruity nose brimming with freshness and showing

candy notes. The palate is very harmonious and

delivers more of the same convincing aromatics. This

is an appetising Pineau for the aperitif or for food.

http://www.cognac-thorin.com Price: € 13.50

Louis Grimaud +33 5 45 83 33 46

THE ULTIMATE PHASE OF COGNAC MATURATION

IN DEMI-JOHNS


139

OUR SELECTION

ITALY

Created in 1967 along the shores of Lake Garda,

this appellation long flew under the radar. Today,

however, it shines brightly, its reputation

burnished by the remarkable Turbiana grape

variety – once known as Trebbiano di Lugana.

Turbiana yields dry white and sparkling wines

of striking consistency and complexity, qualities

that have propelled the appellation forward. Our

tasting uncovered outstanding bottles, some of

them with the ability to age for a decade, all distinguished

by their fresh, intense style. This is an

impressive appellation well worth discovering.

LUGANA D.O.C.

PERLA DEL GARDA 95/100

CR • D BRUT NATURE 150 CL 2013: Vibrant

light-yellow hue. Intense nose lifted by toasted notes.

The same well-defined aromatic palette follows

through on the palate, supported by fine structure

and a tension that adds length. A vintage at its peak.

https://www.perladelgarda.it/ Price: € 50

Perla del Garda +39 30 910 31 09

CÀ MAIOL 94/100

• D SUERE RISERVA 2022: Beautiful yellow-gold.

Intense fruity nose coupled with floral perfumes.

The palate is richly styled yet fresh and reveals more

complex aromatics of honey and candied fruits. The

finish stays fresh and precise in this superb white wine.

http://www.camaiol.it Price: € 30

Cà Maiol +39 030 991 00 06

LE MORETTE 94/100

• D BENEDICTUS 2022: Light yellow colour with

golden tints. Rich, creamy nose with hints of vanilla,

toast, white peach, plum and apricot. Delicate mouth,

smooth and inviting, with the right aromas and a

fleshy, fruity feel. Pastry finish. A bewitching cuvée.

http://www.lemorette.it Price: € 21

Le Morette +39 045 755 27 24


CR • D MADONNA DEL SCOPERTA 2022: Vibrant

luminous golden hue. Delicate nose combining

floral and fruity notes with a hint of menthol. The

palate is silky, expressive and perfectly balanced, with

length to match. A complete and harmonious wine.

https://www.perladelgarda.it/ Price: €22


ARMEA 93/100

• D VITIUM 2018: Bright yellow-gold. Very

engaging nose of candied fruits and beeswax. The

silky-soft style on the palate remains very fresh and

offers up more of the same complex aromatics. This is a

food-friendly wine that is ready to drink with shellfish.

http://www.agriturismoarmea.it Price: €20

Armea +39 030 910 83 25

CÀ MAIOL 92/100

• D MOLIN 2022: Pale yellow. The nose shows

delicate white flower and almond scents. The palate is

very pure and fresh, it is elegant yet tense. The finish

stays clean and saline. Beautiful regional characters.

http://www.camaiol.it Price: €18.50

Cà Maiol +39 030 991 00 06

LE MORETTE 92/100

• D MANDOLARA 2023: Bright, light

yellow colour. On the nose, toasty accents and

fruity aromas (peach, mirabelle plum). The

aromatic dimension on the palate is seductive,

with vibrant, invigorating, juicy fruit. Fine bitters

round off the finish. A complex, delicious white.


Le Morette +39 045 755 27 24

LE MORETTE 92/100

• D RISERVA 2022: Beautiful light-gold hue.

Engaging nose of ripe white fruits with a discreet

pastry note. The palate shows real personality,

combining power and freshness while delivering

finely crafted, persistent aromas. A gastronomic cuvée.


Le Morette +39 045 755 27 24

PASINI SAN GIOVANI 92/100

ORG • D BUSOCALDO RISERVA 2020: Beautiful

vibrant gold. Pleasant, open nose with suggestions

of candied fruits. The palate is remarkably intense

with more of the same accomplished aromatics.

The finish is incredibly persistent and very clean.

http://www.pasiniproduttori.it Price: € 20

Pasini San Giovani +39 03 65 65 14 19

TENUTA MALAVASI 92/100

• D HOTTONE RISERVA 2022: Brilliant

golden-yellow hue. Nose of ripe white fruits with

a creamy undertone. The palate shows pleasing

density and ripe, inviting flavours, leading to a

finish that turns almost exotic. Full of charm.

https://www.malavasivini.com Price: € 28.70

Tenuta Malavasi +39 030 991 8759

PRESTIGIOSO 92/100

• D 2024: Bright clear golden hue. Clean,

fruit-forward nose with subtle floral and dried

fruit notes. The first sip is smooth, broadening

into intense aromas, punctuated by a balanced,

saline and persistent finish. Very well executed.

Price: € 14

Prestigioso +39 335 586 99 39

TENUTE SALVATERRA 92/100

• D 2024: Golden yellow hue, very bright.

Expressive yet delicate nose led by white flowers

and tangy confectionery notes. The palate charms

with freshness and aromatic intensity, mirroring

the convincing profile of the nose. Beautiful vintage.

http://www.tenutesalvaterra.it Price: € 10

Tenute Salvaterra +39 0456 859 025

TOMMASI 92/100

• D LE FORNACI RISERVA 2022: Lovely pale

gold hue. Subtle nose of vegetal, fruity and

mentholated aromas. The palate shows fine

volume and breadth, with complex, lingering

aromas. The finish stands out for its refined,

tangy edge.

https://www.tommasi.com/ Price: € 25

Tommasi +39 045 770 12 66

VILLA MENEGHELLO 92/100

CR • D PROFETESSA 2024: Beautiful yellow-gold.

Intense nose where citrus and white flower

perfumes mingle. The palate displays abundant finesse,

silkiness and a richness that is

perfectly counterbalanced by

freshness in this mouth-filling, persistent wine.

http://vinimeneghello.it Price: €12

Villa Meneghello +39 045 759 00 83

VILLA MENEGHELLO 92/100

CR • D PROFETESSA 2024: Lovely

golden-yellow hue. Intense nose combining

citrus and white blossom. The palate displays

great finesse and silkiness, with richness

perfectly balanced by freshness. Full and persistent.

http://vinimeneghello.it Price: €12

Villa Meneghello +39 045 759 00 83


OUR SELECTION

CÀ DEI FRATI 91/100

• D BROLETTINO 2023: Pale yellow hue with

green glints. Delicate nose revealing floral accents

and subtle vegetal hints. Pleasant aromatic presence

on the palate, led by floral notes. Ample, fresh and

persistent overall. A balanced, easy-drinking wine.

http://www.cadeifrati.it Price: € 22

Cà dei Frati +39 030 919 4681

BISCARDO 91/100

• D MORENA BIANCA 2023: Vibrant light

yellow with green tints. Appealing nose where

tropical fruits, yellow fruits and white flowers

meld. Deliciously ethereal palate with very

precise, chiselled notes where grapefruit meets

tropical. A delicious wine well worth discovering.

http://www.biscardovini.com/it/contat- Price: € 14

Biscardo +39 045 853 80 52

BISCARDO 91/100

• D MORENA BIANCA 2023: Vibrant light

yellow colour with green hues. Seductive nose

combining exotic fruit, yellow fruit and white

flowers. Delicious airiness in the mouth,

with chiselled notes of great precision where

grapefruit meets the exotic. A treat worth discovering.


Biscardo +39 045 853 80 52

ARMEA 91/100

• D VITIUM 2024: Clear, light yellow.

Expressive nose of aromatic herbs and dried fruits.

Gorgeous, clean, expressive attack on the palate.

The persistent, aromatic finish offering up more of

the same appealing aromatics is also very enjoyable.

http://www.agriturismoarmea.it Price: € 13

Armea +39 030 910 83 25


• D SAN GIACOMO 2024: Beautiful golden-yellow

hue. Clean nose blending white flowers with a mineral

touch. The palate is fresh and expressive, in a ripe,

intense style. The finish is precise and impressively long.

https://www.malavasivini.com Price: € 17.30


SERCE’ 91/100

• D RISERVA 2022: Lovely pale gold hue. Appealing

nose of ripe fruit evoking peach and plum. The

palate is clean and fruit-forward, lifted by a welcome

freshness. Balanced, persistent and thoroughly

enjoyable.

Price: € 14

Serce’ +39 335 586 99 39

TENUTA ROVEGLIA 91/100

CR • D VIGNE DI CATULLO - RISERVA 2021:

Clear, pale yellow. Subtle mineral and fruity nose. The

palate opens to a similarly subtle attack then flows

into a measure of power with fruit aromatics that

gain in intensity. Ready to drink now, in its prime.

https://tenutaroveglia.com/ Price: € 18.30

Tenuta Roveglia +39 030 918 393

CÀ DEI FRATI 90/100

• D I FRATI 2024: Pale hue with green glints.

Nose of meadow blossoms, gooseberry, white

peach with a stone-like touch. The palate is full of

surprises, with an inviting, tangy attack. The finish

offers a delicate sweetness. A lively yet indulgent style.

http://www.cadeifrati.it Price: € 13

Cà dei Frati +39 030 919 4681

CÀ MAIOL 90/100

• D PRESTIGE 2024: Beautiful pale yellow.

Low-key nose delivering a blend of white fruits, mineral

notes and almond. The palate shows great delicacy

with aromatics that become more powerful through

to the intense, crisp finish in this successful offering.

http://www.camaiol.it Price: € 13.50

Cà Maiol +39 030 991 00 06

CORTE SERMANA 90/100

CR semi-• D SERMANA 2021: Delightful clear

golden hue. Very ripe nose of plum and apricot

with a mineral undertone. The palate shows fine

substance and precise aromas combining fruit and

minerality. A superb clean, and persistent style.

http://www.coresermana.it Price: € 25

Corte Sermana +39 347 976 08 32

LE MORETTE 90/100

• D MANDOLARA 2024: Pale yellow with

shimmering glints. Highly fragrant nose combining

white flowers, peach, pear and citrus. The palate

seduces with its supple substance and smooth, fleshy,

dense fruitiness. The acidic finish livens up the whole.

http://www.lemorette.it Price: € 10.50

Le Morette +39 045 755 27 24

BISCARDO 90/100

• D MORENA BIANCA 2024: Pale yellow with

silvery tints. White flower overtones on the nose

with wild peach and pear notes. Highly expressive,

fruit-forward palate that is extremely appetising.

Lovely soft feel throughout, this is a very gentle wine.

http://www.biscardovini.com/it/contatti-it Price: € 14

Biscardo +39 045 853 80 52

Cognac


141

OUR SELECTION

BISCARDO 90/100

• D MORENA BIANCA 2024: Pale yellow hue

with silver glints. The nose is dominated by white

flowers, with notes of vine peach and pear. The palate

is intensely expressive, fruit-forward, and

irresistibly indulgent. A wine

of great softness and charm.


Biscardo +39 045 853 80 52


ORG • D MADRE PERLA RESERVA 2022:

Lovely light-gold hue. Alluring nose of ripe

white fruit with a subtle mineral touch. The

palate shows fine texture and develops the same

convincing aromas. A vintage full of charm.




ORG • D SOPRAVENTO 2024: Beautiful

yellow-gold. Racy nose showing mineral and

cereal overtones. The palate is beautifully soft with

precise aromatics that gain in intensity through

to the finish which stays fresh and balanced.



SELVA CAPUZZA 90/100

• D SELVA 2024: Beautiful clear yellow-gold.

Elegant nose of ripe white fruits and

almonds. The palate shows great delicacy,

maturity and freshness which substantially prolongs

aromatic expression in this successful wine.

http://www.selvacapuzza.it Price: €14.50

Selva Capuzza +39 030 991 03 81


• D MENASASSO RISERVA 2021: Beautiful

clear, light yellow. Mature nose where dried fruits

mesh with a mineral edge. The dry yet profound

style on the palate showcases more of the same

chiselled aromatics. Very authentically styled.

http://www.selvacapuzza.it Price: € 22.50

Selva Capuzza +39 030 991 03 81


CR • D CAMILLA 2024: Pale yellow hue.

Nose dominated by floral notes with a touch of

peppermint. Light, fresh-driven style on the

palate. The finish is balanced and delicately saline.

https://www.malavasivini.com Price: €12


LA RIFRA 90/100

• D IL BEPI 2022: Pretty pale gold. Herbal and floral

overtones on the nose. The palate reveals a measure

of finesse showcased by clean, elegant aromatics that

replicate the same, nicely typical floral, herbal tones.

https://fraccarolivini.it/it/ Price: €13.50

La Rifra +39 030 910 80 23

FELUGAN 90/100

• D 2024: Lovely clear golden hue. Subtle nose

of ripe fruit with a hint of undergrowth. The palate,

more fruit-driven, unfolds with freshness in a

register evoking citrus. Expressive and refreshing.

Price: €10

Felugan +39 335 586 99 39


CR • D LIMNE 2024: Beautiful golden hue.

Delicate nose of white flowers coupled with a

subtle almond touch. The palate is intense at

point of entry and shows more of the same

aromatic character combined with a feeling of

freshness that adds substantial length on the finish.

https://tenutaroveglia.com/ Price: €10.50


TURINA

90/100

CR • D FENIL BOI 2024: Clear golden yellow

hue. Elegant, delicate nose of white flowers and

ripe fruit. On the palate, very frank attack with

intense aromas supported by lively tension and a

precise, acidulous, persistent finish. Lovely wine.

https://turinavini.it/ Price: € 11.50

Turina +39 334 266 38 15

CASELLO BONDONI 90/100

• D ARMONIE DEL LAGO 2023: Light

golden yellow colour. Expressive nose of cut

grass, grapefruit and hints of peach. Lively

and concentrated on the palate, full of punchy,

crisp flavours, with hints of peach and mango.

Slightly pearly sensation, beautifully constructed.

https://www.vicampo.de/ Price: € 12.90

Casello Bondoni +49 160 756 84 84

VILLABELLA 90/100

• D 2024: Pale yellow hue with green glints.

Delicate nose of white flowers. The palate is soft and

fragrant, revealing an elegant floral character. An

already harmonious vintage with room to evolve

further.

http://www.cantinedelibori.com Price: € 15.50

Villabella +39 045 626 06 55

VILLABELLA 90/100





further.


Villabella +39 045 626 06 55

FAMIGLIA OLIVINI 89/100

CR • D ELEMENTO 2024

http://www.famigliaolivini.com Price: € 12.90

Famiglia Olivini +39 030 991 02 68





MONTECI 88/100

• D 2024

https://www.righettienzo.it/ Price: € 11.50

Monteci + 39 4 57 15 11 88

COLLI VAIBO 88/100

• D LUGANA 2022

http://www.collivaibo.it Price: € 11

Colli Vaibo +39 030 918 393

A CLUSTER OF TURBIANA GRAPES, LUGANA’S

ICONIC GRAPE VARIETY


OUR SELECTION

BISCARDO 90/100

• D MORENA BIANCA 2024: Pale yellow hue

with silver glints. The nose is dominated by white

flowers, with notes of vine peach and pear. The

palate is intensely expressive, fruit-forward, and

irresistibly indulgent. A wine of great softness and

charm.


Biscardo +39 045 853 80 52


ORG • D MADRE PERLA RESERVA 2022:

Lovely light-gold hue. Alluring nose of ripe

white fruit with a subtle mineral touch. The

palate shows fine texture and develops the same

convincing aromas. A vintage full of charm.




ORG • D SOPRAVENTO 2024: Beautiful

yellow-gold. Racy nose showing mineral and

cereal overtones. The palate is beautifully soft with

precise aromatics that gain in intensity through

to the finish which stays fresh and balanced.




• D SELVA 2024: Beautiful clear yellow-gold.

Elegant nose of ripe white fruits and almonds.

The palate shows great delicacy, maturity

and freshness which substantially prolongs

aromatic expression in this successful wine.


Selva Capuzza +39 030 991 03 81


• D MENASASSO RISERVA 2021: Beautiful

clear, light yellow. Mature nose where dried fruits

mesh with a mineral edge. The dry yet profound

style on the palate showcases more of the same

chiselled aromatics. Very authentically styled.


Selva Capuzza +39 030 991 03 81


CR • D CAMILLA 2024: Pale yellow hue.

Nose dominated by floral notes with a touch of

peppermint. Light, fresh-driven style on the

palate. The finish is balanced and delicately saline.

https://www.malavasivini.com Price: €12


LA RIFRA 90/100

• D IL BEPI 2022: Pretty pale gold. Herbal and floral

overtones on the nose. The palate reveals a measure

of finesse showcased by clean, elegant aromatics that

replicate the same, nicely typical floral, herbal tones.

https://fraccarolivini.it/it/ Price: €13.50

La Rifra +39 030 910 80 23

FELUGAN 90/100

• D 2024: Lovely clear golden hue. Subtle nose

of ripe fruit with a hint of undergrowth. The palate,

more fruit-driven, unfolds with freshness in a

register evoking citrus. Expressive and refreshing.

Price: €10

Felugan +39 335 586 99 39


CR • D LIMNE 2024: Beautiful golden hue.

Delicate nose of white flowers coupled with a

subtle almond touch. The palate is intense at

point of entry and shows more of the same

aromatic character combined with a feeling of

freshness that adds substantial length on the finish.

https://tenutaroveglia.com/ Price: €10.50


TURINA

90/100

CR • D FENIL BOI 2024: Clear golden yellow

hue. Elegant, delicate nose of white flowers and

ripe fruit. On the palate, very frank attack with

intense aromas supported by lively tension and a

precise, acidulous, persistent finish. Lovely wine.

https://turinavini.it/ Price: € 11.50

Turina +39 334 266 38 15

CASELLO BONDONI 90/100

• D ARMONIE DEL LAGO 2023: Light

golden yellow colour. Expressive nose of cut

grass, grapefruit and hints of peach. Lively

and concentrated on the palate, full of punchy,

crisp flavours, with hints of peach and mango.

Slightly pearly sensation, beautifully constructed.

https://www.vicampo.de/ Price: € 12.90

Casello Bondoni +49 160 756 84 84

VILLABELLA 90/100





further.


Villabella +39 045 626 06 55

VILLABELLA 90/100


Delicate nose of white flowers. The palate is soft an



further.


Villabella +39 045 626 06 55









MONTECI 88/100

• D 2024

https://www.righettienzo.it/ Price: € 11.50

Monteci + 39 4 57 15 11 88

COLLI VAIBO 88/100

• D LUGANA 2022

http://www.collivaibo.it Price: € 11

Colli Vaibo +39 030 918 393

SUPERB VIEWS NEAR SAN MARTINO DELLA

BATTAGLIA, SOUTH OF LAKE GARDA


143

OUR SELECTION

SOUTH AFRICA

Our end-of-2025 selection spans vintages from

2021 to 2025, with whites making up the majority.

While statistics and wine production

rarely make easy companions, some figures

say more than words: 64% of the wines we selected

were rated 90/100 or above. The results

are further proof of the exceptional standards

South Africa’s wine industry has achieved,

and continues to reaffirm year after year.

WESTERN CAPE

THE MENTORS 91/100

• CANVAS 2021: Dark ruby. Spice and dark fruit

on the rich nose. Palate is spicy and

refined with leather and char on the

layered aftertaste. Tobacco and cigar box

follows on the developed finish. Drink through 2031.

http://www.kwv.com Price: ZAR 349

The Mentors +27 21 807 3353

JORDAN 90/100

WESTERN CAPE - BREEDE

RIVER VALLEY

BREEDEKLOOF - SLANGHOEK

MARAIS FAMILY WINES 92/100

• BREÉLAND CHENIN BLANC 2024: Yellow

straw. Sweaty nose with capsicum and asparagus.

Waxy and rich on the palate with dried fruit and

quince. Pithy and layered on the creamy finish with

dried fruit roll and marmalade. Drink through 2032.

Price: ZAR 250

Marais Family Wines +27 23 344 3129

ROBERTSON - BONNIEVALE

GABRIEL & GYSBERT 91/100

• WELVILLE 2024: Yellow straw. Subdued

nose with hints of dried fruit. Mature and developed

on the tangy palate with stone fruit, dried

apricot and quince on the finish. Structured and

layered on the aftertaste. Drink through 2032.

https://gabrielgysbert.com Price: ZAR 250

Gabriel & Gysbert +27 76 256 9445

WESTERN CAPE - COASTAL

REGION

COASTAL REGION

LIEVLAND 91/100

• OLD VINE CHENIN BLANC 2025: Light

yellow. Waxy and rich nose with hints of stone

fruit. Tart and herbaceous on the dried fruit

palate with quince and white peach. Ripe pear and

green apple on the aftertaste. Drink through 2030.

http://www.manwines.com Price: ZAR 195

Lievland +27 218 617 759

THE MENTORS 90/100

• GRENACHE BLANC 2023: Light yellow. Wax

and dried stone fruit on the nose. Tangy and tart

on the palate with hints of litchi and white peach.

Some pepper and spice follows on the lengthy, but

well integrated aftertaste. Drink through 2030.

http://www.kwv.com Price: ZAR 179

The Mentors +27 21 807 3353

THE VINEYARD COLLECTION 90/100

• GRENACHE BLANC 2025: Light straw,

attractive green rim. Spice, white pepper, litchi and

quinche. Coated pomelo-like bitterness on palate

entry, Well rounded with waxiness adds to length.

• ASSYRTIKO 2025: Light yellow. Subdued nose

with hints of stone fruit. Tangy and tart on the

palate with lime and citrus notes following

the nose. Granadilla and pear on the lengthy

aftertaste. Uncomplex, but refined. Drink through

2029.

http://www.jordanwines.com Price: ZAR 290

Jordan +27 21 8813 441

DEKKERSVLEI 90/100

• CHENIN BLANC 2025: Attractive green hue. Fruit

freshness, offers immediate attention to its quality.

Honeycomb, light waxiness and creaminess. Acidity

presents itself, but well coated by body of the style and

long finish. Promise of a great future. Well made wine.

Price: ZAR 215

Dekkersvlei +27 21 862 4525

CAPE FYNBOS 89/100

• ROSÉ 2025

WESTERN CAPE - CAPE

SOUTH COAST

CAPE AGULHAS - ELIM

STRANDVELD 92/100

• SYRAH 2022: Attractive red core. Equality of

grape ripeness define the nuances. Black pepper, violets

and dark cherries. All amplified by oak spice and

herbaceous fynbos. Will age for up to 10years and

beyond.

http://www.strandveld.co.za Price: ZAR 305

Strandveld +27 28 482 1902

http://www.perdeberg.co.za Price: ZAR 105

The Vineyard Collection +27 21 869 8244

LEENDERS 89/100

• BAVIAAN 2024

Price: ZAR 250

Leenders +27 84 668 8500

LEENDERS 88/100

• SIELVERKOPER 2023

Price: ZAR 250

Leenders +27 84 668 8500

FRANSCHHOEK VALLEY

STRANDVELD 89/100

MEL WINES 86/100

• THE NAVIGATOR 2022

• SANGIOVESE ROSÉ 2025

http://www.grapegrinder.com Price: ZAR 99

Cape Fynbos +27 21 8633943

http://www.strandveld.co.za Price: ZAR 320

Strandveld +27 28 482 1902

http://kleinchampagne.co.za Price: ZAR 195

Mel Wines +27 21876 3644


OUR SELECTION

PAARL

THE DRY LAND COLLECTION 93/100

• COURAGEOUS BARREL-FERMENTED

CHENIN BLANC 2024: Gold hue. Yellow peach, apricot

and mango carried by spice and touch vanilla. Fruit

aspect complimented by complexity of lees contact. Will

benefit from further cellaring of way beyond 5 years.


The Dry Land Collection +27 21 869 8244

THE VINEYARD COLLECTION 88/100

• GRENACHE NOIR 2024


The Vineyard Collection +27 21 869 8244

PAARL - VOOR PAARDEBERG

AYAMA 91/100

• VERMENTINO PREMIUM 2024: Straw yellow.

Oak dominance, dried stone fruit with elements of

botrytis and sundried berries. Green olives with a

nuttiness and apple crumble on the mid-palate and

aftertaste. Enjoy with food over the next 3-4 years.

http://ayama.co.za/ Price: ZAR 250

Ayama +27 21 869 8313

STELLENBOSCH

WATERFORD 94/100

CR • OVP CHENIN BLANC 2024: Straw yellow.

Waxy, lees, cumquat and spice. Well rounded

entry to palate, impressive complexity, creamy sweet

nuances. Has ageing potential for up to 10+ years.

http://www.waterfordestate.co.za Price: ZAR 320

Waterford +27 21 880 5300

THE PRESS CLUB 93/100

CONV • SYRAH 2021: Dark ruby. Dark fruit,

touch aniseed and plums. Concentrated entry and

midpalet. Black berries compot with touch vanilla

oak spice. Will benefit from further cellaring towards

10 years.


The Press Club +27 218 617 759

EIKENDAL 91/100

• CHARISMA 2022: Deep ruby. Rich nose

with dark berry fruit and cassis. Blackberry and

cranberry on the sour cherry palate with layers of

leather and spice. Big and bold. Drink through 2032.

http://www.eikendal.com Price: ZAR 180

Eikendal +27 21 855 1422

WATERFORD 91/100

CR • GRENACHE SINGLE VINEYARD 2022:

Light pomegranate red with tawny rim. Cherry and

farmyard, amplified by some oak spice and fennel.

Grippy tannins keeps wine in balance. Will age with

grace.

STELLENBOSCH -

JONKERSHOEK VALLEY


ORG • WHITE 2024: Light straw yellow. Waxyness,

almond nuttiness, Stonefruit nuances. Yeasty lees,

advanced, full well constructed complexed wine.

Freshness still prevails. A wine made to last. Oaking

discreet.




ORG • RED 2024: Great depth of ruby red. White

pepper, tomato puree, black olive paste and oak

spice. Carries to a savoury, rich wine with integrated

tannins. Well managed tannin extraction offers a

synchronised wine. Will benefit from 5-10 years of

celaring.



SURVIVOR TERROIR 88/100

• GRENACHE ROSÉ 2024

http://www.vanloveren.co.za Price: ZAR 150

Survivor Terroir +27 23 6151505

AYAMA 88/100

• VERMENTINO 2025

http://ayama.co.za/

Price: ZAR

Ayama +27 21 869 8313

http://www.waterfordestate.co.za Price: ZAR 340

Waterford +27 21 880 5300

LIEVLAND 90/100

• ROSÉ 2025: Rose gold. Red berry and

floral notes on the nose. Red berry and sour cherry

on the palate with a touch of cranberry on the

light and elegant finish. Drink through 2028.

AYAMA 87/100

• GRENACHE NOIR ROSÉ 2025

http://ayama.co.za/ Price: ZAR 120

Ayama +27 21 869 8313


Lievland +27 218 617 759

EIKENDAL 89/100

• ROSÉ 2025

http://www.eikendal.com Price: ZAR 145

Eikendal +27 21 855 1422

PINOTAGE IS THE EMBLEMATIC GRAPE VARIETY

OF THE WESTERN CAPE


145

OUR SELECTION

TURKEY

This corner of the world is a true cradle of grape

varieties with exotic-sounding names – fascinating

but often enigmatic and rarely encountered

beyond their homeland. We had the chance to

taste these wines, which can be difficult to source

abroad, and here’s what we found. What stands

out most is the singular varietal range. You won’t

find any Merlot or Cabernet-Sauvignon here, but

rather exclusively native cultivars that encapsulate

the ‘Turkish flavour’, free from any familiar

benchmarks. And that’s a breath of fresh air!

TURQUIE ALL REGION

CHÂTEAU SERIE 90/100

• D CÔTES D’AVANOS - NARINCE 2023: Pale,

bright yellow hue. Lush nose of fresh grapes,

opening up to exotic notes. On the palate, a dynamic

balance between richness and a pleasant liveliness,

taking on a tangy character. Lovely personality.

http://www.kavaklidere.com/en Price: € 25

Château Serie +90 312 847 50 73

DIREN 89/100

• D COLLECTON NARINCE 2023

Diren

Price: € 3.50

502 VINEYARDS 88/100

• D NARINCE 2024

https://www.502vineyards.com/ Price: € 13

502 Vineyards +90 533 483 03 00

DIREN 88/100

• D COLLECTION KÖSETEVEK 2023

Diren

Price: € 3.50

PENDORE 88/100

• D PENDORE - OKUZGOZU 2022

http://www.kavaklidere.com/en Price: € 25

Pendore +90 312 847 50 73

PASAELI 88/100

CR • D BLANC DE NOIRS

ÇALKARASI 2024

http://www.pasaeli.com Price: € 16

Pasaeli +33 6 09 60 46 60

PASAELI 87/100

CR • D KARASAKIZ 2023

http://www.pasaeli.com Price: € 25

Pasaeli +33 6 09 60 46 60

502 VINEYARDS 85/100

• D MERZIFON KARASI 2024

https://www.502vineyards.com/ Price: € 18

502 vineyards +90 533 483 03 00

TYPICAL VINEYARD LANDSCAPES IN CAPPADOCIA


Enter your wines now: vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com/en

09

_ 11

_ fév.

2026

PARIS EXPO

PORTE DE VERSAILLES

PAIRING

PERFECTION

wineparis.com

#wineparis #winepairing

L’abus d’alcool est dangereux pour la santé, à consommer avec modération.

GG_N60_Couv_FRA-web

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