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58<br />

Sede, nel 1848,<br />

dell’incoronazione<br />

di Francesco<br />

Giuseppe,olomouc<br />

fu anche città<br />

prediletta<br />

del principe<br />

Massimiliano.<br />

Il futuro<br />

imperatore<br />

del Messico vi<br />

trascorreva lunghi<br />

soggiorni estivi<br />

Royal headquarters,<br />

in 1848 of the<br />

coronation of Franz<br />

Joseph, olomouc<br />

was one of the<br />

chosen cities of the<br />

prince maximilian.<br />

The future emperor<br />

of mexico spent long<br />

summers there<br />

cava neppure di poter usare talvolta<br />

un’arguzia tutta morava. Nel 1883,<br />

ecco arrivare fra gli altri visitatori un<br />

bizzarro kapellmeister nel teatro cit‑<br />

tadino: si tratta nientepopodimeno<br />

che di Gustav Mahler. Il povero Gustav,<br />

non ancora issato ai fasti della grande<br />

musica, fatto oggetto dell’ironia dei<br />

giornali locali, resistette appena per<br />

tre mesi.<br />

Città colta, dunque, a tratti estetiz‑<br />

zante: cresciuta fra chiese, univer‑<br />

sità, teatro e palazzi storici di quella<br />

nobiltà mitteleuropea che irrobustì in<br />

It is true; Brno received the honour of Habsburgs and the German princes took<br />

being the new Moravian capital of wine place. The two-headed eagle seemed to<br />

and castles. It witnessed the surge and have a special appreciation for this nest:<br />

turmoil of Habsburghian history: the not too far from Vienna, Iuliomontium<br />

defeat of Austerlitz, the harshness of remained a junction point on the road to<br />

the Spielberg, the devastating 1848 ©PIM Silesia and Cracow. Indeed, thanks to its<br />

revolution that threatened to engulf humble elegance, the town became the<br />

the whole empire. While Olomouc, the favorite place of Prince Massimiliano,<br />

conservative town, remained for a long younger brother of Franz Joseph. The<br />

time a town of peace. And it is, perhaps, future Emperor of Mexico began spend-<br />

for this reason that you cannot ignore ing his long summer holidays there.<br />

the beautiful “Alamòc” town - as the Discretion as a form of custom: and<br />

Hungarians still call it today - if you here it was, transformed into a perfect<br />

want to understand a little of the his- “retreat” of the most famous European<br />

tory of the Austrian dynasty. Fortified court for its privacy and discretion. But,<br />

by Maria Theresa of Habsburg, point- while strengthening links with the<br />

lessly besieged by the Prussians in graceful town of Salzburg, Olomouc did<br />

1758, Olomouc was above all the place not forgot at times to use that peculiarly<br />

of the abdication of Emperor Ferdinand Moravian wit. In 1883, along with the<br />

I in ‘”annus horribilis” 1848.<br />

other visitors, a bizarre Kapellmeister<br />

If history can sometimes be ruthless, it arrived at the town theater: it was none<br />

may also grant unexpected successes: other than Gustav Mahler. The poor<br />

on 2nd December of the same year, in Gustav, who had not yet reached the<br />

the Cathedral of St. Wenceslas, the his- magnificence of great music, became<br />

torical coronation of Franz Joseph took the object of irony in the local papers<br />

place. He was destined to rule until and was able to endure it only for about<br />

1917: just 68 years!<br />

three months.<br />

In 1850, in Olomouc, a decisive dip- Thus, a town of culture, at times with<br />

lomatic conference between the aesthetic traits: grown among church-<br />

progetto repubblica ceca<br />

L’incoronazione di Francesco<br />

Giuseppe a Olomouc<br />

The coronation of Franz Joseph<br />

in Olomouc<br />

Moravia le più salde radici: Liechten‑<br />

stein, Edelmann, Windisch‑Graetz e<br />

molti altri. Ancora oggi, il più grande<br />

organo esistente in Repubblica Ceca è<br />

alloggiato qui: chiesa di Sant Moric,<br />

2311 canne. Capolavoro barocco e<br />

anche per certi versi biedermeier, tal‑<br />

volta ammirato da turisti colti. Città<br />

leziosa e preziosa, piuttosto, Olomouc<br />

lo è rimasta anche adesso per gli ope‑<br />

rosi e accurati studenti cechi. Vengo‑<br />

no qui per perfezionare i propri studi<br />

umanistici: sono quasi ventimila, su<br />

una popolazione che supera appena i<br />

100mila abitanti, mentre l’ateneo ha<br />

prodotto e continua a produrre insi‑<br />

gni ricercatori e studiosi.<br />

Per gustare davvero l’elegante Olo‑<br />

mouc, allora, l’ideale è arrivarvi nel<br />

mese di maggio: fioriscono i giardini e<br />

le ragazze morave, è bello passeggia‑<br />

re fra i parchi fin de siècle e villa Pri‑<br />

mavesi, mentre si celebra ancora una<br />

volta il rinomato”Festival dei Fiori”.<br />

es, universities, theaters and historical<br />

buildings of that Central-European<br />

nobility that in established solid roots<br />

in Moravia: Liechtenstein, Edelmann,<br />

Windisch-Graetz, and many others.<br />

Still today, the largest existing organ<br />

©PIM<br />

in<br />

the Czech Republic with 2,311 pipes is<br />

housed here: in the church of Sant Moric.<br />

A Baroque masterpiece and in some<br />

ways also a Biedermeier, that at times<br />

is admired by cultured tourists. Olomouc<br />

has also remained a somewhat<br />

affected and precious town for the industrious<br />

and diligent Czech students,<br />

who come here to perfect their classical<br />

studies: there are almost twenty<br />

thousand of them out of a population<br />

of just over 100 thousand inhabitants,<br />

while the university has and continues<br />

to produce outstanding researchers<br />

and scholars.<br />

To really enjoy the elegant Olomouc<br />

town, then, the ideal thing is to go<br />

there in May: the Moravian gardens<br />

and girls are in full bloom; it is lovely<br />

to stroll through the fin de siècle parks<br />

and villa Primavesi, while they are<br />

once more celebrating the well known<br />

“Flower Festival”.

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