Chateau of Lourmarin,

Chateau of Lourmarin, which I’d spotted onthe way into the village and couldn’t waitto explore. Perched on a hill, its walls werecovered in waterfalls of jasmine and cascadesof roses every shade of pink, their perfumefilled the warm air with perfume, and theravishing view from the chateau’s courtyardover the village stopped me in my tracks.The stately chateau, part 16th-centuryRenaissance, part medieval, was purchasedin the 1920s by an art-loving industrialist fromLyon, Robert Laurent-Vibert, who restored itwith the aid of archive documents and ancientengravings. Now an exhibition centre, therooms are beautifully furnished, the doublespiral medieval staircase is magnificent, thelibrary is exquisite, filled with exceptional andancient travel books, and there is a superbcollection of rare musical instruments.Lourmarin is officially one of the prettiestvillages in France (Plus Beaux Villages), oneof five in the Luberon (the others are Ansouis,Menerbes, Gordes and Roussillon). But thisis no Disney fairy tale village, though it is ascharming as one.sit alongside a pharmacy, bank, food storesand boulangeries.Head off into the warren of streets in the town,and you may spot the ancient laverie, a stonebasin where women would wash garments inthe Middle Ages. It’s still a communal area in agated garden, and here the older ladies of thetown meet, stopping to sit and gossip aboutwho is marrying whom and who is doing whatwhilst pegging out their washing. Locals call itthe gossip garden - the place where you getall the news. Traditions and the Provencal wayof life are revered here.your time, savour the details, sit at a caféfor hours, explore the markets, do a winetasting, olive oil tasting, eat good food, makeyour own lavender bag, meet artisans, feelthe spirituality of the Abbaye de Senanque– so much to experience, so many beautifulvillages, so much joy. It’s a place that touchesyour soul.15things to do in theLuberonI could write a book on all there is to do in theLuberon, but here are some favourites, all lessthan one hour by car from Lourmarin.Gordes: The view of this hilltop beauty fromthe road below is iconic, otherworldly almost(stop at the Bel Air rock for the best views).Explore its ancient streets to admire thefountains, boutiques, and honey-colouredbuildings, you’ll be in good company -Renoir, Picasso, Matisse and Van GoghThe fountain in the main square of the perched village of Gordes in Provencewas the main source of water for the villagers from 1826 until as late as 1956.Lourmarin has a thriving restaurant sceneLourmarin’s cobbled streets are full of ancient buildingsWith a population of around 1000 permanentresidents, it’s a rather sleepy place, excepton Friday mornings - market day, whenpeople come from far and wide to buy atstalls piled high with vegetables, fruit, cheese,honey and all manner of delicious products,as well as homewares and fashion. In itsmostly pedestrianised cobbled lanes, artisanworkshops, artists' galleries and chic boutiquesThere are plenty of restaurants, from snackfood to fine dining, and afterwards wanderthe streets for a post-dinner walk, spottingcats that wriggle coquettishly at the sideof the road trying to tempt you to rub theirbellies as you listen to amorous frogs croakingin garden ponds.After one day in Lourmarin, I was chilled. Aftertwo days, I felt like a local.The joy of Luberon is not just in its beauty.It’s not a place to rush around but to take10 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 11