Brantôme-en-Périgord:The Venice ofPérigord VertFrom troglodyte caves to a monumentalBenedictine abbey and charmingmedieval streets, history abounds inBrantôme-en-Périgord, as Karen Taitfinds out.Shaped by water and timeThe site was first inhabited in the 5th centuryby monks who carved out troglodyte sheltersBrantôme-en-Périgord © Karen Tait© Karen Tait © Karen Taitalong the Dronne’s banks, protected by cliffsand sustained by river water for drinking andagriculture. These ancient dwellings can beexplored from the abbey courtyard, includingone with scenes of the Last Judgement carvedinto the stone, thought to date back to theMiddle Ages. Over the centuries, the caveshave served many purposes – from monasticretreats and burial chambers to venues formodern art exhibitions and shops sellingregional products.The abbey was founded in the 8th century bythe Frankish king Charlemagne, who donatedrelics of Saint Sicarius, one of the infant boysslaughtered by Herod. This brought pilgrimsand prosperity, boosted by river trade and tollson passing boats.At the northern end of the abbey on a rockyoutcrop, the Romanesque bell tower is saidto be one of the oldest in France, dating fromthe 11th century. Climb to the top for sweepingviews of the town and river. Inside the church,gilded wooden panels depict key moments inthe abbey’s history, including Charlemagne’sdonation of the relics, and there are alsoremains of the 15 th -century cloisters. Insidethe abbey, the Fernand Desmoulin Museumdisplays the French spiritual artist’s work fromthe early 1900s.The abbey has been destroyed and rebuiltseveral times, suffering during Viking raids andthe Hundred Years’ War. In the 16th century,the abbot Pierre de Bourdeille – knownas ‘Brantôme’ – is said to have saved theabbey from Huguenot attack by inviting theinvaders to a feast instead! During the FrenchRevolution, the abbey was secularised andbecame the property of the city.Riverside charmAt the abbey’s southern end you can see theelegant Renaissance Pavilion and the TourSt-Roch, part of the original defences. Nearby,the tranquil Grand Jardin or Jardin des Moineswas once the abbey’s private garden.42 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 43