The might Rhone River

The might Rhone River changes as it flows from the alpes to the sea Vineyards and ruins on the hill in Tournon sur Rhone Vineyards and farmlands dot this stretch of the ViaRhôna, and the entire way was lined with apricot trees full of lusciously ripened fruits. Arriving in Tournon-sur-Rhône in time for lunch, I stopped off at the La Péniche Slow Food Café on a barge. It is so easy to simply while away the hours gazing at the river from the café, but there’s lots to see and do in nearby Tournon St Jean. You can hop on a historic train – steam or diesel with your bike and see the stunning countryside – the Doux Valley and its gorges. Or take the market train which stops off at some of the best markets in Ardèche, fill your basket with fresh fruit, chestnuts, the local Picodon goats’ cheese and more. Le Mastrou steam train which runs between Tournon and Lamastre On a bright and sunny late Spring morning, I peddled across the river onto the official ViaRhôna path, leaving the traffic and the sounds of Vienne behind me. The fully sign posted and traffic-free greenway follows the route of the Rhône River flowing alongside. To the right is the Pilat regional nature park, treating riders to a soundtrack of birdsongs and cricket chirps among the trees that provide shade. Other than occasional cyclists or walkers, I was mostly alone. I watched the Rhône change as the light of the day moved from east to west, and by the time I reached my destination for the day, having already stopped briefly in between for a quick lunch break, the river was like a sheet of dark silvery steel. That night, I stayed in a lovely Gite in the village of Sablons and was treated to a warm welcome and a hearty home cooked feast. The Rhône is the only major river system that flows from the glacier source near Geneva, all the way to the mouth of the river at the Mediterranean Sea. Its mood changes with the environment. The next day, as I woke to the light of the morning and pushed out onto the greenway to continue after breakfast, the river had also awoken to a shade of pine green, slowly shedding its Alpine milky-blue character as it flows towards the warmer southern climate. Montelimar Photo/ G.Reynard Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes Tourism Pedal across the bridge to the Tain L'Hermitage side of the river and make a beeline for the Cité du Chocolat ValRhôna museum and shop. And squeeze in a visit to the Côtes du Rhône vineyards which reach down to town’s streets. Row after row of carefully positioned Syrah, Marsannes and Roussanes vines, supported by dry stone terraces, blanket the hills that flank the river. You can hike, bike or segway your way around the vineyards or take the little tourist train up to the top for some fantastic views. Make time for a wine tasting at Maison M. Chapoutier, their 2020 Chante-Alouette white is particularly excellent! Onwards and southwards I rode, towards the sunny city of Valence, where I stayed in the cyclist friendly Hôtel Les Négociants where I was greeted like an old friend. I stayed just one night in each place I visited but, you may be tempted to linger longer. Valence’s charming gardens and buildings with history carved into their walls, its wonderful museum and fabulous wine shops will tempt you to stay, but for me it was time to set off again after a quick visit. The terrain starts to become wilder from this part, the paved greenways occasionally become compact dirt tracks. It is an uplifting journey, with sweeping views of the mighty Rhône which by now is wider and wilder, breaking off into short tributaries. Valence 98 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 99