The Cote d’Azur

The Cote d’Azur (French Riviera in English), named after the azure blue of theMediterranean sea, is famous for its glittering beach life and glamorous cities. Butthere’s another side to this stretch of southern France, a side that has long luredartists and where art de vivre is a way of life. Discover the creative soul of theFrench Riviera says Janine Marsh.Le Cannet, the Bay of Cannes in the distanceArt de vivre,artists & artisans ofthe French RivieraIn the late 18 th century, English aristocratsflocked to the Riviera, as they called it, forthe winter sunshine. Artists soon followed,from Renoir to Matisse, Picasso to Chagall,drawn by the light, the colour, the good life- and the fact that even in January it’s oftenwarm enough to sit outside. They travelled allover the Cote d’Azur and settled in peacefulperched villages and tranquil seaside townsand it’s easy to see what made them fall inlove with the area.Skip the summer crowds and visit the FrenchRiviera from September to March to discoverthe laidback season’s calm beauty. Wanderlesser-known, sunlit villages, meet artisans,warm your hands near a glassblower’s furnace,and trace the footsteps of some of the world’sgreatest artists.I started my journey in Le Cannet, just a fewkilometres from glitzy Cannes where PabloPicasso lived in the 1950s, nicknaming his homein the Costebelle district, the Minotaur’s lair.Le Cannet is an elegant and vibrant town withall the sunshine of its glamorous neighbour butnot the crowds. It’s here that post-impressionistPierre Bonnard moved to from his native Paris.The town’s Musée Bonnard is dedicated to thepainter and hosts several temporary exhibitionseach year. Take a wander down Rue Saint-Sauveur to discover dozens of artisan shopsfrom jewellers to santon makers, painters, agoldsmith and more and pop into the Chapelledu Saint-Sauveur to see the frescoes painted byexpressionist artist Théo Tobiasse.Take a break at the superb La Maison Bellevuerestaurant, enjoy delicious Mediterraneandishes and the view over the bay of Cannes.Or head to Le Bistrot des Anges, a bistronomicrestaurant with a menu designed by BrunoOger whose 2 Michelin Star Villa Archange isnext door.Le Cannet by Pierre Bonnard at the Bonnard MuseumGiant Head of Picasso, by Catalan artist Xavier Gonzalez payshomage to Picasso’s time in MouginsFrom here it’s a short distance to the perchedvillage of Mougins with its tranquil, windingcobbled streets, it feels like another worldfrom Cannes which is just 6 km away. Mouginsis where Picasso chose to spend his final years.Edith Piaf, Jean Cocteau, Fernand Leger,Isadora Duncan and a plethora of creativesspent time here. And no wonder, there issomething special about this village, the light,the ambiance, the views over the countryside– it feels peaceful and timeless. There are24 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 25