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QUALITY FRENCHMANUFACTUREDSaint-Corneille Church, Puycelsi © Gillian Thorntonof the Grésigne Forest, another strategic basefortified by you-know-who from Toulouse.Perched high on a hilltop with commandingviews of the Vère valley, this Plus Beau Villagealso retains sections of fortification, more than800 metres of ramparts encircling a maze ofnarrow streets. Don’t miss the interior of Saint-Corneille Church, the ceiling lavishly paintedin bright blue and gold reminiscent of Sainte-Cécile Cathedral in Albi.Last stop on my Tarn village tour is Penne, notso much for the village itself, but for the ruinedmedieval chateau that stands on a narrowridge high above the river Aveyron. Equallyextraordinary is the story of the castle’s 21 stcentury renaissance. At the age of 10, heritagearchitect Axel Letellier vowed during a familyvisit that he would one day buy the Forteressede Penne, an episode captured on a homevideo clip that features in the excellentintroductory film about the project.Occupied since the 11 th century, this medievalmarvel changed hands many times during theCathar crusade and the Hundred Years War,belonging to everyone from Cathar supportersand the Counts of Toulouse, to the kingdomsof Aragon, France and England. And in 2006,Penne Castle entered a new phase when itwas bought by Axel and his wife Sophie.After three years of essential restoration, LaForteresse de Penne opened to the public in2010. Conservation and archaeological work areongoing, bit by bit, with many of the artefactsdiscovered now displayed in a fascinatinginterpretation centre that opened in 2024.Whenever you visit, make sure to wearsturdy, comfortable shoes as the steep pathForteresse du Penne © Gillian ThorntonView over Penne from the Forteresse © Gillian Thorntonfrom the reception desk is stony and uneven.But there is no rush. Just let the views unfoldas you climb steadily to the entrance gate.Once inside the castle wall, I find myselfstopping frequently to enjoy the 360-degreeview, take yet another photo, and simplymarvel at this extraordinary feat of medievalmilitary engineering.Axel and Sophie Letellier are determinedto open up Penne’s history to the widestpossible audience, so it is good to see a schoolgroup enjoying demonstrations by costumedcharacters. Throughout July and August,visitors can watch ‘medieval’ stonemasons atwork; see demonstrations of construction andcombat skills; and even enjoy nocturnal visits.As I walk back down the cobbled path, Iexchange pleasantries with a gentlemancarrying a large bundle of souvenir cottonbags. Bound for the castle shop, he turns outto be Axel Letellier himself. Still as passionateabout Penne as he was as a 10-year-old andclearly still very hands-on.FIBREGLASSSWIMMING POOLSOPERATINGTHROUGHOUT FRANCE5 STAR REVIEWS1 WEEK INSTALLATION OVER40 POOL MODELS 10 YEAR GUARANTEE(+33) 6 42 50 04 31www.poolsdirect.onlinecontact@poolsdirect.onlinewww.facebook.com/poolsdirectS I R E T : 9 0 4 9 5 3 9 5 7 0 0 0 1 940 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 41
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