and sculptures, take a

and sculptures, take a workshop with millinerVéronique Bahuaud who works with hautecouture houses, and Didier Bougon, one of ahandful of barrel organ makers left in France.And don’t miss the Belle Epoque style MaisonBattu, where master pâtissier, chocolatierand glacier Jean Luc Battu and his son createthe most delicious cakes, sweets, ice creamand chocolates – including Esprit Blanchard,chocolate and cinnamon (utterly irresistible).There are plenty of restaurants open yearround,(Les Filles À Maman is lovely) andthere’s a weekly Saturday market. Whateveryou do don’t skip lunch at Au Marché deProvence (74 Ave du Barriot), this cosy caférun by husband-and-wife team Olivier andMarie, is loved by the locals and serves upgenerous portions of the most delicious food(their pain perdu is memorable).There are plenty of cultural sites including theFerrande Tower, as 12 th century monumentwith 12 th century Frescoes, costume, and bikemuseum, and the fascinating Maison Fléchierin a beautiful old mansion house whichpresents a quirky exhibition of folklore andtraditions of Provence.porteduventoux.comLa Margelle a charming hotel in thecentre of townRicherenchesThe scent of summer in Provence islavender, in winter it’s truffles and nowherecelebrates the “black gold” more joyfullythan Richerenches. From late Novemberto early March, one of the largest trufflemarkets in France takes place every Saturdaymorning. It’s a rather clandestine affair,whispered prices, cash only, no haggling, butit’s rumoured some 300-400kg per week aresold here. While there, you must indulge - andthere are plenty of truffle-themed menus in allthe restaurants, but for me the best was lunchat the town hall. Anyone can go (book well inadvance for this popular event via the touristoffice), you sit on long tables with strangersChef Olivier at Au Marché de Provence,authentic Provencal cooking at its bestRicherenches, which boasts one of the most well-preserved 12 th centuryKnights Templar Commanderies in Provencewho quickly become friends not least due tothe kir aperitif and help-yourself glasses ofexcellent Côtes du Rhône wine. Each week adifferent Association prepares and serves thelunch which consists of starter, main course,cheese, dessert, drinks and coffee – veryinexpensive, and really, really good fun.After a wander round the town, a formerKnights Templar stronghold, and a visit toHunting for truffle treasure at Domaine Saint-Albanthe Museum of Truffles and Wine, I couldn’tresist a spot of treasure hunting while in thearea. Just 5 minutes by car from the centreof Richerenches, Domaine Saint-Alban offersdaily truffle hunts by appointment (email orphone) from November to the end of March.Join Christian Allègre and his dog Holly on atruffle tour which includes a wine tasting oftheir own wines. We were joined by Christian’s8-year-old grandson Gabin, a real chip offthe old block who used his great grandfather’s100-year-old pick to dig for truffles once Hollyhad snuffled them out. “You brought goodluck” Christian told me as we headed backto his barn to warm up carrying half a kiloof truffles. We celebrated with outrageouslydelicious truffle butter slathered on bread withpesto and a glass of deep red wine.There is a legend that a lord of Provencefell in love with a young girl whodemanded the right to pick mushrooms inreturn for a kiss. He agrees and she pickedall the truffles – and they got married!Séguret in winter, cobbled streets and tinkling fountainsSéguretA 30-minute drive through gloriouscountryside, past silent vineyards lined withcoppery-leaved hedges lit by soft sunlight,hilltop villages topped by castles and churchtowers, brings you to Séguret. This pinchyourself-it’s-so-prettyvillage is like a livingpainting with narrow cobbled streets, stunningviews, ancient houses, tearooms, artists’studios and restaurants. It’s famous for hostinga nativity scene on Xmas eve with real peoplerather than with the santons, little figurines,44 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 45