The towers are lit up at

The towers are lit up at nightLa Rochelle has long been popular with visitorsand in the summer months its café terracesand wide quaysides heave with tourists. But forme, a winter visit is a wonderful way to explorethe town without crowds, discover its manymuseums, enjoy bracing walks along the beachesof the Atlantic Coast, browse the fabulous shops,dine at superb restaurants – and indulge in someof the area’s more secret charms.What to see in La Rochellein winterGrosse Horloge, La RochelleWinter City break:LA ROCHELLEWinter is an ideal time to visit the maritime city of La Rochelle, capital of theCharente-Maritime department, and discover its picturesque port, historictown, museums and feast worthy restaurants along with some of its less wellknowncharms says Janine Marsh.From the window of my hotel, I watched therising sun cast the palest blush of pink overthe tranquil historic port of La Rochelle andthe grand stone towers that guard the portentrance just as they have done for centurieswhen a huge chain was hung between themand raised when required to prevent boatsentering. French writer Rabelais would surelyrecognise the towers from his description inhis 1532 best-seller Pantagruel (in his tale,the chain was used to tie a baby giant calledGargantua into a cradle!). A gentle breezeover the marina conducted an orchestralclinking from the boats moored thereWander inland from the old port which is linedwith restaurants and bars, into the old townthrough the ornately sculpted 12th century48 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 49