Quiet streets but still

Quiet streets but still bustling La Rochelle in winter © Julien Chauvet, La Rochelle TourismRue St-Jean-du-Pérot known locally as ‘food street’Gate of the Grosse Horloge, once a defensiveentry, it became a clock tower in the 15 thcentury. Here you’ll find streets lined withwhite stone mansions and medieval arcadesthat house shops and cosy cafés.Explore the city’s culture, starting at theMusée Maritime where you’ll discover1000 years of La Rochelle’s history in afascinating exhibition that includes anhistoric ship collection moored alongsidethe museum, featuring amongst others, adeep sea port tug, a classic 1950s trawlerand a meteorological survey ship - theFrance 1, which also has a bar. The Museumof the New World charts the maritimeand historic links between France and theAmericas - New Rochelle in the state ofNew York was founded in the 17th centuryby Huguenots who fled La Rochelle to seekreligious freedom via those guardian towers,the gateway to America. For many of thosetravellers, one of the last sights of La Rochellewould have been the medieval lantern tower,its Gothic spire made it a landmark for ships.A lantern was added making it the world’sfirst rotating beam lighthouse. Visit all threetowers for a delve into La Rochelle’s past.There’s also the Natural History Museum,and the Aquarium which is a bit of a must.Les Halles, La Rochelle© Francis Giraudon, LaRochelle TourismWith more than 12,000 marine animals fromjellyfish to sharks, it takes about two hours todo the whole thing and is wonderfully warm ona chilly day.Take a walk on La Rochelle’s beaches, or headto the beach of Châtelaillon-Plage just a fewminutes away. And don’t miss the excellentmarket Les Halles, held every morning, it’sbeen pleasing shoppers since the 1800s.For a small city, La Rochelle packs a mightygastronomic punch. The streets are filled withbars and bistros, cafés and restaurants spillingout onto cobbled streets and lining prettysquares. Most visitors head for the old Port,Vieux Port, and who can blame them. Therestaurants here have fabulous views over theport and the ancient towers. But head off thebeaten track into the St Nicolas quarter, theformer fishing district for authentic local cafesand bars, or to rue St-Jean-du-Pérot knownlocally as ‘food street’. It’s surprisingly easyto miss even though it’s right in the centre.Here you’ll find top class restaurants,like Bon Temps which serves superb classicFrench cuisine. At night this street bursts intolife, brimming with bars and bistros, terracesfilled with people and a friendly, festiveatmosphere.Three things to not missin the areaThere’s heaps to see close to La Rochelle,including the islands of Ré, Aix and Oléronwhich at this time of the year are largely freeof tourists. All are great for hiking and cyclingin winter when often the weather is mellowand sunny. Visit the towns of Rochefort,Royan, Saintes, and little villages like PlusBeaux Villages Talmont-sur-Gironde Brouagewhere Napoleon kept an icehouse so he couldserve his guests cool drinks; the oyster port ofLa Tremblade; and the enchanting, authenticport of Haumea, a small municipality of thegreater Rochelle area and from where youhave a magnificent view of the curved Île deRé bridge.Neighbouring Cognac offers a whole raft ofexperiences with many producers open forvisits and Cognac tastings throughout winter.Rejuvenate at a Spahalasso Spa Marin, La Grande Terrasse © Sylvie CurtyAt La Grande Terrasse hotel and spa atthe seaside resort of Châtelaillon-Plageenjoy a spa session that will make you feelrelaxed, refreshed and rejuvenated. Winterblues begone – this resort paradise is justabout perfect. Heated pools, sea viewjacuzzis and seawater massages plus beauty,hairdressing and wellbeing treatments. Iopted for a massage under a fine rain of50 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 51