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Where to eat on the slopesSaint-Gervais the townOf course, there are plenty of places to eatand drink on the mountains. Melted-cheesefantasy alpine dishes like tartiflette andraclette are a must. One place you reallyhave to try is Le Boitet. It has fabulous viewsfrom the terrace and is owned and run bythree Michelin star chef Emmanuel Renautwhose approach is simple cooking donewell, using local and seasonal ingredients– the result is truly scrumptious. His LaCroûte aux Fromage de nos Montagnes,Oignons and Champignons – which ischunky bread baked in local cheese,onions and one of Renaut’s favouriteingredients – local wild mushrooms, is anabsolute stunner. It’s not for those with alight appetite but you’re in the mountainsand the calories you burn doing multipleactivities alleviates any guilt. Wash itdown with a sugar lump soaked in thelocal raspberry flavoured liquor which hasenough poke to propel you back out ontothe slopes.Le Boitet © Lucy PittsChurch of Saint-Nicolas de Véroce © Lucy PittsThe town has invested wisely in sustainabilityand infrastructure and the locals have atangible sense of pride in their communityand their surroundings. There are the usual skishops, but you’ll also find pottery, art and acouple of really good delis if you want to buylocal produce.Look out for the street art, including a brightlycoloured wall known as ‘Die Cast’ painted in2018, and a commemorative painting of 1921,when François Durafour flew a single-enginedCaudron G.3 aircraft from Lausanne, landingon the summit of Dôme du Goûter (at analtitude of 4,331 metres) next to Mont Blancbefore returning to base. He was the first pilotto land and take-off with an aircraft at such ahigh altitude and the first to land on and takeofffrom snow in that type of plane.Finally, include a visit to the church in thevillage centre. It’s late 17th century andreplaced an earlier Medieval one. It’s builtin Baroque style with nine modern stainedglasswindows designed by Korean artist KimEn Joong in 2016. If you’re lucky, you mightcatch one of the free musical recitals that areheld here.The family-run Coeur des Neiges iin thecentre of Saint-Gervais, once a farmbuilding, has been a hotel for the last 100years.Other activities and thingsto do in the areaRaclette – an alpine classicTalking of churches, make sure you catch oneof the free buses to the lovely village of Saint-Nicolas de Véroce, about 7km away. It’s wellworth visiting for several reasons including theearly 18th century Baroque masterpiece withits brilliantly painted vaulted ceiling in blueand gold, the colours of Saint-Nicolas, andthe carved wooden altarpieces and colourfulinterior are magnificent. There is also a smallmuseum next door.76 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 77
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