The artistic legacy

The artistic legacy ofLIMOUSINAubusson © Gillian ThorntonCité Internationale de la Tapisserie © Gillian ThorntonWith its vast areas of quiet, unspoiltcountryside, the Limousin region insouth-central France, is an ideal placeto leave the daily grind behind andimmerse yourself in the great outdoors.But this tranquil area in the eastern partof Nouvelle-Aquitaine is also a centreof enormous artistic endeavour saysGillian Thornton as she explores two ofits historic towns.AubussonAubusson in the Creuse department isa UNESCO gem, listed for its IntangibleCultural Heritage. With a population barelyexceeding 3,000, Aubusson has a globalreputation amongst lovers of history, heritage,and needlework.Tapestry production grew here in the 15thcentury, and the work of Aubusson’s skilledcraftsmen adorned and insulated the grandrooms of draughty chateaux across Europe.But if, like me, you thought that tapestrieswere rooted firmly in the past, you have a bigsurprise coming. This traditional craft has avery contemporary edge too.Discover the fascinating story at the CitéInternationale de la Tapisserie in the towncentre, inaugurated in 2016 as a referencecollection, exhibition centre, and trainingestablishment. The Cité promotes Frenchcraftsmanship but also helps to support theexisting sector - from spinning mills anddyeing plants to tapestry cartoon makersand weavers.Decorated in stripes that recall the multicolouredthreads on a loom, the eye-catchingfaçade hides a collection guaranteed tochallenge your perceptions of this vibrantart form. Discover the various techniques ofproduction, then take a chronological journeythrough six centuries of tapestry productionthat starts, as you might expect, with intricate15 th century designs featuring unicorns,maidens and minstrels, tiny flowers, delicateleaves and fantastic beasts.By the 17 th century, most tapestry artistsworked in small family workshops in towns andvillages around Aubusson and nearby Felletin,often producing series of tapestries based onpopular fiction and classical tales. Demandgrew and in 1665 by order of ‘Sun King’ LouisXIV, his right-hand minister Colbert drew upproduction rules and training programmes toimprove the manufacturing process and boostsales. This led to the creation of an officialstamp – the letters MRDA for Manufacture84 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 85