|Places| Le Doyenné restaurant, in restored former stables; left: chefs James Henry (left) and Shaun Kelly; below: the restaurant’s sunflooded dining room Full Transparency How a pair of Australian chefs transformed an overgrown estate in the Parisian countryside into a detourworthy culinary retreat with local ingredients and global credentials. By Gisela Williams A lready several years before the era of coronavirus lockdowns and many pandemic-inspired exoduses to the countryside, the two Paris-based Australian chefs Shaun Kelly and James Henry were spending much of their free time riding their bikes around the outskirts of the city, searching for a space – an old warehouse, or perhaps a garage with a backyard – that they could turn into a culinary dream project of their own. While the two of them had had enormous success in Paris during a dynamic moment in the city when outsiders PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: LUKE BURGESS (2), MARINE BILLET 36 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
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