BLACKBOOK IN THE KNOW G L O GOURMAND B A L On our culinary radar: restaurants and bars that are challenging the norm in Central Europe; a powerful collaboration in Hong Kong and a quintet of epicurean tomes V I E N N A V I C T U A L S Innovative alternatives to classic Austrian cuisine are slowly turning the metropolis into one of Europe’s culinary hot spots. Diane Naar-Elphee reports on the latest openings Contemporary sushi at Shiki; above: inside the Austro- Japanese eatery; right: The Brickmakers 1 of 5 Pity the Austrian capital: home to a number of creative, forward-thinking chefs, the city’s culinary reputation is mired under the weight of its namesake, Wiener schnitzel, and the decadent, if not oversweet, Sachertorte. A handful of debutants this year are finally swinging the balance, led by feted chef Konstantin Filippou, who has just opened O boufés (konstantinfilippou.com $ ), an industrial-chic eatery offering an assortment of nearly 300 local and international, organically sound, natural wines, a dozen or so served by the glass. Boufés, Greek for “buffet”, is set next to the chef’s fine-dining restaurant and the kitchen here, too, offers much to admire, with seasonal tapas and a pair of his signature dishes: mackerel on breaded cauliflower with lemonflavoured pine nuts, and marinated pork belly with eggs, peas and horseradish. Featuring somewhat lighter fare, Japan-born and Vienna-bred conductor Joji Hattori’s first restaurant, Shiki (shiki.at), opened earlier this year in the heart of the city. An eclectic menu of contemporary Japanese cuisine pairs with top-quality sushi and sashimi as well as dishes with a distinctly European note, from carpaccio of wagyu beef to chilled seafood gazpacho. A more casual atmosphere can be found at The Brickmakers (brickmakers.at $ ), the latest addition to a blossoming urban pub scene. In addition to the expansive selection of craft beers and ciders, chef Peter Zinter heads the barbecue kitchen, serving up succulent smoked brisket, beef and pork ribs with a side of tangy red coleslaw. Finally, the pick for local flair and fare is Ottakringer Brewery’s latest outpost at craft beer hub Yppenplatz 4 (yppenplatz4.at $ ), where, in a stylishly revamped market hall, local master chef Christian Petz’s specifically concocted sausage special can be washed down with the nearly 200-year-old brewery’s favourite tipples – classic lager, India pale ale or Flanders red – all now on tap. It may be classic Viennese fare, but the updated versions, and the hip new surrounds, showcase the city’s future. PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: BRUNO KLOMFAR, CHRISTINA KARAGIANNIS, LISI NIESNER 42 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM CONTACT CENTURION SERVICE FOR BOOKINGS
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