BLACKBOOK IN THE KNOW BLACKBOOK IN THE KNOW GLOBAL GOURMAND ON OUR CULINARY RADAR: EATERY OPENINGS FROM AROUND THE WORLD, INCLUDING MINNEAPOLIS’S LATEST HANGOUT AND A HIGH NOTE IN SYDNEY, PLUS A QUINTET OF EPICUREAN TOMES The minimalistchic decor of ore – Ducasse au Château de Versailles Hot Tables Where to eat in Paris, Hong Kong, London and New York by way of St Moritz – the season’s newest restaurants are sizzling with style PHOTO PIERRE MONETTA 54 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM CONTACT CENTURION SERVICE FOR BOOKINGS
PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: © BADRUTT’S PALACE, BRETT STEVENS, MIKE MADISON; BOOKS: COURTESY OF THE PUBLISHERS Andreas Caminada of IGNIV P aris’s Divellec (divellecparis.fr) has been reborn with a refreshed look by Studio KO and a tempting seafood-centric menu by father-and-son team Bernard and Mathieu Pacaud, who have a combined six Michelin stars between them. Dishes like lobster fricassee in devilled sauce or John Dory served with razor clam marinière are at once attractively presented and pleasing to the palate. Meanwhile, foie gras with fig chutney or steamed turbot in truffled hollandaise sauce are two standouts at ore – Ducasse au château de Versailles (ducasse-chateauversailles.com), the star chef’s latest outpost set in the palace’s historic Pavillon CHEF WATCH In the American state of Minnesota, a pair of notable chefs are on the move Dufour, which has been treated to a minimalist-chic makeover courtesy of architect Dominique Perrault. Amid the snow-capped Alps, Michelin-starred Swiss toque Andreas Caminada will reach new culinary heights with flawlessly executed sharing platters at his IGNIV restaurant ( badruttspalace.com), to be unveiled soon at the swish Badrutt’s Palace in St Moritz. London’s Flemings Mayfair hotel, too, introduces an in-house eatery with Ormer (ormermayfair.com), where the locally foraged, Britishinflected fare of Shaun Rankin are complemented by the oenophillic expertise of sommelier Andreas Rosendal. Across the pond in New York City, respected restaurateur and La Grenouille alumnus Charles Masson has recruited Parisian wunderchef Christian Delouvrier for The Lowell’s French eatery Majorelle ( lowellhotel.com), whose elegant interiors were inspired by the iconic Yves Saint Laurent garden in Marrakech. Chef Lee Adams of Park Lane Hong Kong’s new Skye rooftop restaurant (parklane. com.hk) also champions French culinary tradition, though the bar’s signature cocktails, made with artisanal spirits, take their cue from the pulse of local city life. Claudia Roelke W ithin the past five years, Minneapolis’s North Loop neighbourhood has become a food lover’s hotbed, with restaurants like The Bachelor Farmer and Spoon and Stable garnering national attention. Now the area is about to get another sure-to-be-top spot, Brut, helmed by chefs Erik Anderson and Jamie Malone. Both previously held the head role at the city’s Mill District restaurant Sea Change. (Anderson is also an alum of Noma, in Copenhagen, and the Catbird Seat, in Nashville.) Brut’s menu will reference modern and classic French cooking, but Anderson emphasises that it won’t be a French restaurant. “It’s less about a style of cooking and more about how and what we like to eat,” he says. When Brut opens, diners can expect to see shellfish and simple raw-fish preparations alongside techniquedriven foods like whole roasted birds. “Our food is going to be elegant,” Malone says, “but definitely still a lot of fun.” 428 N Washington Ave Jen Murphy C U L I N A R Y P A G E - T U R N E R S 1. Husband and wife Kei Lum Chan and Diora Fong Chan feature staple dishes and regional delicacies from all around the country in a comprehensive guide to Sino-cuisine phaidon.com 2. From the humble breadknife to exquisite sushi blades, the history of the chef ’s most treasured utensil is explored by “food geek” Tim Hayward quadrille.co.uk 3. Visually striking examination of the culinary history of the Israeli and Palestinian people from designer and editor David Haliva gestalten.com 4. Modern Italian cooking dissected with 250 recipes sourced by the renowned food emporium phaidon.com 5. American writer Colman Andrews celebrates traditional recipes from England, Scotland and Wales in both their original and recently reinvented forms. abramsbooks.com John McNamara BENNELONG’S NEW VISION As far as dining experiences go, there is nothing quite so Australia n as ordering a meal at the Sydney Opera House. Now the kitchen at Bennelong (bennelong.com.au) has a new menu designed by chef Peter Gilmore, who has wowed at nearby fine-dining establishment Quay since 2001. It features modern Australia n dishes, but those who prefer a more relaxed affair should try the Cured & Cultured option. Take a seat in the casual upper-level area, known as The Circle, and order dishes like Sydney rock oysters with lemon and pepper granita, red claw yabbies with lemon jam, cultured cream and buckwheat pikelets, or an upmarket twist on a tuckshop classic, suckling pig sausage roll with black garlic. Carrie Hutchinson FOR THE LATEST GASTRONOMY NEWS, CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM 55 GO TO: CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
