BLACKBOOK IN THE KNOW BLACKBOOK IN THE KNOW (cafemirabelleparis.wixsite. com/home) is located in the 11th arrondissement, one of the youngest, liveliest parts of Paris. So head to this new table where a talented Alsacienne patissière sends out delectable pastries as part of a meal that begins with various freshly pressed juices and also includes fromage blanc with granola and fruit, scrambled eggs The creator of eyeswoon.com, Athena Calderone, provides tips on making food look arresting with 100 seasonal recipes. abramsbooks.com with salmon or guanciale, a vegetable dish, and a choice of three freshly made desserts, to discover another side of the city over great food. The 10th arrondissement is another lesser-known Paris district with a lot of charm. Make for La Fontaine de Belleville (lafontaine.cafesbelleville. com) for a laidback brunch HOBART HOTSPOT THE DIGESTIBLE DIGESTS Tales from the Peruvian Andes accompany simple, traditional dishes in Martin Morales’s ode to his country’s cuisine. hardiegrant.com before exploring the area on foot. This hip café is owned by the same people who own the Belleville Brûlerie, the best craft coffee roasters in Paris, and they feature jazz on Saturdays from 4.30pm-7.30pm. Great choices here include the French toast with rhubarb compote or a croque monsieur sandwich with a green salad. Gregory, left, and a selection of plates served at Franklin Chef Analiese Gregory has left Bar Brosé in the Darlinghurst district of Sydney to take over the kitchen at Franklin (franklinhobart.com.au) in Hobart, the Tasmanian capital. Gregory is one of the most talented young female chefs in Australia , and her true north is the French cooking her father, Mark, mastered so well that he was the first New Zealander ever to receive an MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France, the highest honour that France awards to craftspeople). “France has had a larger influence on my cooking style than any other country,” says Gregory, who also tips her hat at her half-Dutch, half-Chinese mother’s Cantonese cooking, which she ate as a girl. After schooling in Wellington, Gregory moved to London, where she worked at The Capital under French chef Éric Chavot, then at The Ledbury, and finally at Le Meurice in Paris under Yannick Alléno. Expect dishes like pasta with sea urchin and wild fennel, chicken neck boudin, and goose leg with fermented mushrooms, Portuguese cabbage and maltagliati pasta. Tom Moorman and Larry McGuire team up with food writer Julia Turshen to showcase the fare of their popular Texas eatery. phaidon.com Pumpkin and sweet potato soup with anchovy foam Venetian Reinvention Within the newly renovated Palazzo Venart hotel on Venice’s Grand Canal, Michelin two-star chef Enrico Bartolini has created a culinary destination in a city not often praised for its food. Glam, which opened with little fanfare or signage, is the newest of Bartolini’s four restaurants across Italy. (His others are in Milan, Bergamo and Castiglione della Pescaia.) The menu is mostly traditional Venetian fare – polenta, saor (fried food marinated in vinegar), and bigoli pasta – but with a sophisticated twist. The risotto, for example, can be ordered in a curried style, and the pumpkin saor is made with dried cod, as opposed to a customary onion-based preparation with sardines. The overall experience is subtle and intimate: the restaurant seats just 40 people; those inside look out on a magnoliafilled courtyard, and the outside candlelit garden has canal views. palazzovenart.com The writer of Knife, Tim Hayward turns his attention to other objects that shape life in the most important room in the house. hardiegrant.com PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: MAGGIE GIVEN (2), © PALAZZO VENART; BOOKS: COURTESY OF THE PUBLISHERS 48 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM FOR HOT TABLES IN MUST-VISIT CITIES GO TO: CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
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