I don’t believe I’ve revealed even 50 per cent of these terroirs’ potential. That job is going to take more than the lifetime of one vigneron – Jérôme Bretaudeau collection of wines with a cult following. His flagship cuvée, Gaïa, a marvel of steely tension and salinity, is served around the world, from California’s threestar Manresa to Australia’s preeminent pescatarian eatery, Saint Peter. Still, Bretaudeau remains humble. “I don’t believe I’ve revealed even 50 per cent of these terroirs’ potential,” he says. “That job is going to take more than the lifetime of one vigneron.” Much like how Burgundy’s vineyards were organised by centuries of monks, today producers are dividing Muscadet into crus, each associated with specific geological types found in particular communes. Seven of these crus communaux were approved in 2011 and 2019; three more are pending. The cru guidelines are strict, requiring low yields, and extended lees ageing. Cru Clisson, a granite terroir, yields rich wines like Domaine Michel Brégeon’s La Molette cuvée – a wine importer Emily Spillmann calls “off-the-charts Muscadet”. Cru Gorges, a terroir of gabbro (a magmatic rock from the oceanic crust) creates wines of scintillating minerality, like Domaine de la Pépière’s mouthwatering Gorges cuvée. Cru Goulaine, a terroir of gneiss and mica-schist, makes elegant, opulent wines, epitomised by Domaine Pierre Luneau Papin’s Excelsior cuvée, whose 2007 vintage reaped 100 points from Decanter’s Loire expert Jim Budd. Such exceptional, age-worthy wines, says Jean-Jacques Bonnet of Domaine Bonnet-Huteau (another standard-bearer of Cru Goulaine), are muscadet as it’s meant to be. “We’re returning to the roots of this appellation,” he says, “which, at its heart, is one of the great whites of the Loire.” Today, thanks to passionate sommeliers like David Biraud, that sentiment is shared by a growing number of gastronomes, too. For, as director of Sur Mesure par Thierry Marx, Biraud offers no less than two-dozen different muscadets, from Landron’s Amphibolite to Bretaudeau’s Gaïa – wines which the sommelier seamlessly pairs with the “haute couture” cuisine of Thierry Marx. “In the end,” says Biraud, “muscadet gets straight to the heart of what oenophiles love in wine – a distinctive signature, a pure expression of a terroir, a place captured in a bottle.” PHOTO PAUL STEFANAGGI 102 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
Discover the World with Centurion ® SERVICE INFORMATION Whether it is journeying far and wide or staying close to home, Centurion is here to help you get the best out of your experiences. We look forward to helping curate unforgettable moments for you once again. Reside in style Whether at home or abroad, Centurion Members receive further benefits, in addition to your Fine Hotels + Resorts amenities, when booking stays at hotels across eight Centurion partner brands. We are always here for you Enjoy the reassurance that comes with knowing you and your family are covered with our travel and purchase protection whenever you travel. For more information, please call your Relationship Manager or Centurion Travel Service on 1800 231 889. IMPORTANT INFORMATION: If the unexpected happens on your travels and a medical emergency arises, your first port of call is Chubb Assistance. In the event of an incident and to ensure you get appropriate, and fast, treatment from a doctor who speaks your language, you must call Chubb Assistance on +61 2 9335 3492 or the number on the back of your Card before seeking medical treatment, or you may be responsible for your medical expense costs. The insurance on American Express Cards is subject to terms, conditions and exclusions (such as maximum age limits, pre-existing medical conditions and cover limits). You must use your American Express Centurion Card to be eligible for certain coverages, see the Eligibility Table in the Insurance Terms and Conditions. It is important you read the American Express Centurion Card Insurance Terms and Conditions at americanexpress.com.au/centurioninsurance and consider whether the insurance is right for you. We do not provide advice about the insurance or whether it is appropriate for your objectives, financial situation or needs. This insurance is underwritten by Chubb Insurance Australia Limited (ABN 23 001 642 020, AFSL No. 239687) under a group policy of insurance held by American Express Australia Limited (ABN 92 108 952 085, AFSL No. 291313). Access to this insurance is provided solely by reason of the statutory operation of section 48 of the Insurance Contracts Act 1984 (Cth). Card Members are not a party to the group policy, do not have an agreement with Chubb and cannot vary or cancel the cover. American Express is not the insurer, does not guarantee or hold the rights under the group policy on trust for Card Members and does not act on behalf of Chubb or as its agent. American Express is not an Authorised Representative (under the Corporations Act 2001 (Cth)) of Chubb.
