|Objects| recalling superb bottles of Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2001 and Cristal 1974 and 1994 as “uninspiring years but wonderful wines”. Avellan warns that champagne is very sensitive and can easily spoil if stored poorly, so advises caution when buying older bottles especially. She points to a number of producers who offer “longer lees-aged or late-release champagnes straight from the winery, which guarantees top condition”, but these, she continues, “of course come with a price tag”. Wines to look out for in this rarefied category include Bollinger R.D., Dom Pérignon P2, Cristal Vinothèque and Krug Collection. However, Wong adds a helpful rejoinder to those considering four-figure single-bottle purchases, suggesting that “unless you want to bring the label to the table, as a consumer-collector, you’ll get as much satisfaction buying six bottles as one for the same price”. Splashing out on larger formats, however, comes universally recommended: “Size matters. Magnum and jeroboam sizes are ideal when it comes to ageing as well as value creation,” says Avellan, and Crawford observes that getting access to these rare large bottles can be one of the benefits of getting to know and continually supporting your favourite maisons. Champagne has recently announced 2023 as its largest harvest on record and, although we won’t see the fruit of this vintage’s labours for at least three years, it coincides with similar growth in collector interest. Now, with the market stabilising, it is a great time to start or expand your champagne collection, concentrating on securing wines on release, including large formats, from well-established and emerging producers. The focus should be on ensuring there are plenty of bottles in your cellar to steadily improve, both in price and complexity, whether you are buying as an investment or to enjoy, as Wong prefers, “fluid conviviality” with fellow “bubbleheads”. Recommended Releases Four experts offer sparkling inspiration for your next bottle Essi Avellan MW “Two superbly elegant 2013s are arriving on the markets now: Rare Champagne 2013 and Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2013.” Peter Crawford “The latest iteration of Laurent Perrier Grand Siècle – N°26, which is an exciting blend of the 2012, 2008 and 2007 vintages. Meanwhile, I’m eagerly anticipating the launch of Krug Clos du Mesnil 2008, and also Moët & Chandon’s new, multi-vintage cuvée.” [Latterly revealed as Collection Impériale Création No. 1]. Queena Wong “I’ve been really enjoying Billecart- Salmon recently – Elisabeth Salmon Rosé 2008 is delicious but the 2009 is really good now. 1996 is showing really well and 2002 is simply stunning. In my experience, great rosé champagnes can age well. Cristal Rosé 2008 and 2013 are both superb. Salon 2013 shows the joyfulness of the vintage, it’s very playful, with a lovely mouthfeel.” Justin Gibb “Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2006 – it has some good bottle age, and diminished supply and the price is very attractive. Plus, it’s a delicious champagne!” From left: Louis Roederer Cristal Vintage, louis-roederer.com Billecart-Salmon Elisabeth Salmon Rosé, 2002, champagne-billecart.fr Bollinger PN AYC 18 Blanc de Noirs Brut, champagne-bollinger.com Krug Clos du Mesnil Brut Blanc de Blancs, 2008, krug.com Moët & Chandon Impériale Collection Création No 1 Brut Nature, moet.com PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE CHAMPAGNE HOUSES 70 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
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