BLACKBOOK RIVER TALES
BLACKBOOK RIVER TALES for cocktails and conversation. The ship is anchored a short boat ride from the port at Siem Reap, near the historic capital of the Khmer empire and home to the kingdom’s magnificent 12th-century temples at Angkor. Through walls of windows on each side of the wide room, darkness descends over the silvery waters of Cambodia’s Tonle Sap Lake, the largest freshwater expanse in Southeast Asia which swells during monsoon season to submerge the surrounding flood plain under as much as ten metres of water. For dinner, Thompson’s team has prepared a Mediterranean menu that includes cauliflower salad with hazelnuts and herbs, raw courgette with raisins and smoked capers, and aubergine with pesto, plus a choice of grilled river fish orslowroasted lamb shoulder. Modern Mediterranean dishes alternate with Thompson’s vibrant curries, noodle dishes and other Thai and local specialities for each meal. “I didn’t think food should take premier place,” explains the wry, tousled Thompson. “It really is about the cruise and being in an enjoyable environment. I thought the food should be like someone affluent with a cook in a nice kitchen cooking for a home.” Architect David Hodkinson of Vietnam’s Noor Design created the subdued, modern interiors using local wood and stone with Indochine touches that reflect the surroundings, which provide an everchanging backdrop through spans of floor-to-ceiling glass. Four of the 20 cabins – each measuring 30 square metres – connect for families, and eight of them feature outdoor balconies where guests can enjoy a nightcap under a starry sky. A spa, fitness room, From top: the Aqua Mekong’s observation deck; Mekong river prawns; a Design Suite with balcony screening room, game room, sundeck and swimming pool offer opportunities for diversion and indulgence between excursions. Each morning and afternoon, guests can hop onto skiffs for what Galli Zugaro describes as “soft adventures”. A trip to the 22,000ha Prek Toal Core Bird Reserve explores the flooded forest sanctuary. “You will be surprised how some areas are quite similar to the Amazon,” notes Galli Zugaro. “Obviously, they eat anything that moves here, so there’s no big wildlife.” Many of Aqua Mekong’s excursions have a cultural angle, enriched by four Cambodian and Vietnamese guides. A tour through the floating village of Moat Khla glides past floating gas stations, convenience stores, schools and stilted houses painted bright red, green and blue. The waterways bustle and villagers smile and wave as they zip by in river canoes outfitted with noisy longtail motors spouting frothy rooster-tails in their wakes. Aqua Mekong’s fleet of bicycles offers a more immersive experience as guests pedal through verdant landscapes with rice paddies and slender sugar palms. In the villages, children run to the road, greeting allcomers with singsongy “Hallos”. Land excursions also include insider glimpses into pottery, metalsmithing and silkweaving workshops, as well as the opportunity to visit schools brimming with eager kids who love showing off their English skills. “Two years ago we took a trip on the Mekong, and the itinerary we put together here is 80 percent different,” says Galli Zugaro with pride. “There are ten or 12 other ships, but no one is doing it our way.” aquaexpeditions.com PHOTOS FROM TOP: RICHARD MARK DOBSON (2), © AQUA EXPEDITIONS 26 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM CONTACT CENTURION SERVICE FOR BOOKINGS
