Chef David del Rosario and wife Charlotte Lamy at their kinilaw bistro CEV; right: locally based artist Archie Geotina poses in front of a piece from his iconic Pearls series Nay Palad Hideaway’s maze of palm-fringed guest villas 70 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
There is a very different kind of kinship now. We are all survivors and have overcome trauma together. It’s a unique kind of closeness – Heidi Ganaden beautiful resort was in shambles. I was officially Guest Number One for its 3 June reopening this year, postpandemic and post-Odette. Some might say it is a little late to the game, as Siargao impressively recovered in barely seven months – however, there is a very specific reason for this. Nay Palad chose to rebuild the homes of its staff and the local community before investing in its own resort. “After the devastation of typhoon Odette, we were really torn,” shares owner and founder Bobby Dekeyser. “Our first thoughts were to support our staff and our local community. It was truly important for us to find ways to bring potable water and construct shelters for them. They have been our family all these years and have always been here for us. This time it was our turn to be here for them.” Collaborating closely with Dekeyser, celebrated French architect and designer Daniel Pouzet worked with local craftsmen and suppliers to rebuild the resort almost entirely from scratch. The result is a gorgeous, sprawling beachfront property imbued with soul. Speckled with cosy nooks where one can escape and unwind, Pouzet’s design seamlessly blends tropical chic with Filipino artistry. However, there is one quality that stands out that isn’t made of bricks and mortar: here is a palpable sense of being at home, where the staff feel valued, respected and loved, and radiate that wonderful spirit back to the guests. One morning, a rickety little bangka came right up on the shore. Three fishermen stood aboard, looking victorious. Chef Pere Massana, Nay Palad’s executive chef, greeted them excitedly. Gesul Jimboy Gerarcas, the captain, proudly exhibited his finest catch – a 32kg yellowfin tuna. He’s been supplying Nay Palad for years and Chef Pere knows him intimately. “What’s so unique is this special connection with the Where to Stay Flanked by a white-sand beach overlooking the Pacific Ocean and a lush mangrove forest, Nay Palad Hideaway is a sprawling, all-inclusive property with just 10 villas – the very epitome of barefoot luxury, naypaladhideaway.com. Siago Beach Resort is a family-owned beachfront boutique resort right in the heart of General Luna, with thoughtful service, excellent Latin-inspired food and a light-hearted and dynamic vibe, siagobeachresort.com .Away from the fray in the calmer district of Malinao, Inara is a rusticchic establishment offering warm, Filipino hospitality in a beautiful setting, inara.com.ph Where to Eat & Drink Sup at Cev, the island’s hottest restaurant. Former financier turned chef David del Rosario serves up some incredibly mouthwatering versions of kinilaw, the local ceviche, alongside creative libations, @cevsiargao .For drinks, join the barefoot and the beautiful at Barbosa, a hip little watering hole that not only mixes deliciously treacherous cocktails but also vintage and retro beats on vinyl, @barbosa_siargao supplier,” he explains. “You are in touch almost every day and it extends beyond the professional. It becomes personal.” The young Spaniard has visited Gerarcas’s home in Dapa on several occasions, joining him for afternoon snacks and visits to the fish market. “Resorts like Nay Palad and people like Chef are what keep us going,” shares Gerarcas. “They prioritise and respect the local supply chain, they give us steady income. Thanks to their business, I have been able to send my children to university.” Pere is mindful of paying fair prices. “I don’t understand how some establishments will haggle a difference of 10 to 20 pesos (¢20 to ¢40) – it’s insignificant for us but means the world to them. This type of relationship is positive; they feel valued and in return always bring us their best produce.” I am beginning to understand why people can’t quite put their finger on the specialness of Siargao. Yes, the seas are spectacular, sometimes a calm shimmering turquoise and other times a feisty white-capped deep indigo – prized waves to which people flock. The coast is lined with white-sand beaches and dramatic rock pools. The palms … yes, the palms. The entire island is blanketed in lush coconut trees that sway gracefully CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM 71
