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Centurion ICC Winter 2023

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|Places| When the Greeks

|Places| When the Greeks arrived in Marseille over 2,600 years ago, they planted vines all over the sundrenched countryside, never dreaming that one day, the fine art of winemaking in Provence would attract medieval monks, centuries of aristocrats and, these days, cinema royalty like Brad Pitt, George Clooney and Ridley Scott. N o wonder there’s an old Provençal proverb extolling the virtues of the grape – “a day without wine is a day without sun” — but now, beyond savouring the region’s exceptional vintages (award-winning tri-colour AOC Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence), you can sleep in elegant country castles hidden away in forests of truffle oaks and pines, or discover the invention or revival of sleek contemporary neo-Provençal hotels that celebrate everything that springs from the soil. One of the most grandiose châteaux of its kind, Villa Baulieu (villabaulieu.com), 15 kilometres northwest of Aix-en-Provence, sits atop an ancient volcano and once belonged to the vine-growing Counts of Provence in the late 1500s. Formerly a private home and under new management by the Airelles group, this enchanting 12-bedroom Italianate Provençal country bastide, located inside a 300ha wine estate, is available for private rental for special occasions, and includes a chef and a full staff. It is a stunning period-piece gem, inside and out: everything from the crenellated towers and majestic cour d’honneur entrance, stone pool and vast French garden (where a 17th-century “temple of love” still stands) to the hand-picked antique interiors conjure lavish fêtes of days past. Along with a library, a music room, a country kitchen, a glassed-in orangery for breakfast, a Renaissance-style dining room, romantic canopy beds, museum-quality paintings, and sitting rooms for teatime or cocktails, comes an elaborate attention to detail. During the seven-year restoration by former owners, the Guénant family, expert local craftsmen turned this three-storey castle into an eye-catching example of authenticity, apparent everywhere from the ornate white Provençal-plaster gypserie chimneys to the delicate painted ceiling frescoes. Airelles has also embellished the estate with modern luxe features such as an indoor spa, a cuttingedge fitness room and a plush after-dinner smoking parlour. Nearby, the once-sleepy rural village of Le Puy- Sainte-Réparade has become an unexpected hot spot for serious foodies, wine lovers, nature enthusiasts, history buffs and culture vultures. If you’re looking for a beguiling mix of 18th-century aristocratic allure and deep comfort, head to the meticulously restored Château de Fonscolombe ( fonscolombe.com), a listed historical monument set in a leafy 12ha park edged with vineyards. Glimpsed from the entrance path and lined with majestic plane trees and two ochre stone towers, you might mistake this 50-room Quattrocentostyle mansion for a private estate – which it was for nearly three centuries. The former home of two illustrious botanist families, the Marquis de Saporta and de Fonscolombes, the atmosphere – marked by dreamy four-poster beds and splendid public rooms with glittering drop-leaf crystal chandeliers – evokes a Octopus and radish in curry butter and sour-cream soup at Château de Fonscolombe’s L’Orangerie restaurant PHOTO © LE CHÂTEAU DE FONSCOLOMBE 24 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM

timeless pastoral hideaway, but that’s not all. A major highlight is the newly arrived chef, Marc Fontanne (formerly at the Le Prieuré Baumanière hotel) whips up a refined flavourful feast and homegrown wines, served in the intimate salons of the castle. You can also dine in the sunlit L’Orangerie or under a towering bald cypress tree, to the tune of whirring cicadas. A ten-minute drive down the winding country road, just past the village of Le Puy-Sainte-Réparade, the 200ha Château La Coste ( chateau-la-coste.com) is roughly the same size as Monaco and exceptionally unique: with a 29-room hilltop luxe hotel and spa, five restaurants, biodynamic vineyards, plus a Tadao Ando-designed arts centre, galleries and a trail of open-air contemporary sculptures and starchitect pavilions, all scattered across a pine forest, innovations abound. Enter the new L’Auberge La Coste. Located across from the cutting-edge winery and vines, the 70-room country inn with an arty village vibe is le dernier cri in affordable chic (and also useful when the original hotel up the hill is fully booked, as it so often is). Behind the discreet straw-yellow and pale-rose façade, the low-slung red-roof-tiled complex, there’s an inner courtyard with a stone fountain and a handful of boutiques stuffed with locally crafted ceramics, a boulangerie and fromagerie plus an oak-lined Irish pub and bistro serving haute comfort food (spit-roasted farm chicken and homemade frites and grandmotherly classic desserts like apple pie). The luminous, cleanlined rooms – a medley of pale wood, fluffy duvets and nubby white sofas – come in every size, some with balconies and a view of the Frank Gehry-designed music pavilion and garden. Highpoints include the spacious black-marble bathrooms with double sinks and Japanese toilets, waking up to birdsong and early morning treks through the peaceful wooded hillside. Less than an hour’s drive away, tucked away in the fortified hilltop village of Mane, the newly reopened 49-room Le Couvent des Minimes Hôtel & Spa L’Occitane (couventdesminimes-hotelspa.com) is an elegantly restored 17th-century convent-turnedhotel. Surrounded by fruit orchards, herb gardens and The main entrance at Le Couvent des Minimes is a former 17th-century chapel olive groves, plants have always been paramount here (Louis XIV’s personal botanist once came to study the secret powers of herbs with the resident monks). The spectacular transformation includes 15 additional rooms and an airy, minimalist restructuring of all the public spaces, which include a chapel, cloister and pool as well as two restaurants headed by awardwinning newcomer chef Louis Gachet. And then, the showstopper: a reinvented 2,500sq m holistic spa. Founded in Mane in 1976, the iconic cosmetic marque L’Occitane is indigenous to the terroir – here, the herbal body-care treatments, infused with almonds, honey, lavender and lemon, are combined with new wellness options from private coaching to yoga. PHOTO THINK UTOPIA ON PROPERTY At Villa Baulieu, order a bottle of the full-bodied 2016 Villa Baulieu red, with notes of berries, liquorice and spices, while Château de Fonscolombe produces few better bottles than the pale-pink Chateau de Fonscolombe Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence rosé 2022, with notes of cranberry, pomegranate and mint. The fruity Chateau La Coste Grand Vin Rosé 2020 is exceptionally lovely, with notes of citrus and flowers. Finally, at Le Couvent des Minimes Hôtel & Spa L’Occitane, book a signature anti-ageing facial with extracts of the aptly named Mediterranean everlasting flower immortelle. CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM 25

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