Style & Beauty En Vogue
Style & Beauty En Vogue From left: Roksanda proves minimalism pairs perfectly with boldness; Loewe’s latest collection, from British designer Jonathan Anderson, experiments with structure; Stella McCartney’s bluebell trouser suit Lang – loves “off ” greens, russets and dusky pinks, mixing them with fresher tones of the same shades for cool combinations of almost utility separates. Polish sustainable label LeBrand features slightly greyed pinks and blues among its palette of neutrals, denim and leather for superficially simple, graphic shapes with subtle feminine details. British brand Joseph was the 1980s go-to for perfect black trousers and great easy knits and has maintained its minimalist, “flexible wardrobe” ethos ever since but now puts soft colour front and centre with tonal mixes of pale spring yellows, almond greens and creams, balanced with strictly monochrome outfits that reference original minimalism and are still the mainstay at Yamamoto and Demeulemeester. Jil Sander was instrumental in promoting the plain trouser suit, the inspiration for millions of working suits ever since, and the brand’s current designers, Luke and Lucie Meier, hold fast to the brand’s heritage with oversized modern cuts and more delicate pieces to soften the look, in pale shades that Sander often used, this time a palette of yellows from primrose to ochre. The gently colourful trouser suit figures everywhere, from mid-blue and sporty at Stella McCartney to soft sage at New York-based Peter Do who, with his tonal mixes of soft pinks and ecrus and gracefully uncluttered shapes, is the transatlantic inheritor of Klein’s mantle. The quietest disciples of new minimalism are stealth-wealth brands, whose clients are rich and confident enough not to need the boost of logos and demand only the timeless best. Hermès is their byword for more than bags, its slightly sporty, often leather-trimmed shapes now more pared back than ever in summery shades from baked earth to white, while cashmere designer Brunello Cucinelli is the ultimate in tonal dressing, the knits balanced with fabrics from leather to organza, and even minimalist sequins. However, the event which may seal minimalism’s position hasn’t happened yet. Phoebe Philo, whose feminine take on it for her revival of once-bourgeois French brand Céline was hugely influential, will start her own brand this year, backed by LVMH. Many women are hoping that when she does, this effortlessly cool, laidback style becomes the look of the decade. ¬ PHOTOS FROM LEFT: © ROKSANDA, © LOEWE, © STELLA McCARTNEY 32 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
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