BLACKBOOK IN THE KNOW An entrée at Novikov Miami; maritime decoration in Restaurant Petrossian, left The US has three coastlines and a deep love of seafood French capital. Prepared by chef Francis Fauvel, the seasonal menus run to offerings such as chilled lobster with a lobster coral vinaigrette; turbot with shellfish; and baked figs with fig-leaf-flavoured ice cream. Elsewhere in the City of Lights, celebrated designer François-Joseph Graf has restyled Apicius (restaurant-apicius. com), one of Paris’s power tables, while young chef Mathieu Pacaud (he’s the son Scallop, squash blossom, pea verte and corn emulsion from The Establishment of Bernard Pacaud of the three Michelinstarred L’Ambroisie) has rebooted the kitchen with dishes like John Dory fillets with lime-oil flavoured caponata and lobster from the Chausey islands in the Channel with green beans, fresh almonds and a sauce of vin jaune. In Barcelona, Estimar ( $ restaurant estimar.com), an intimate eatery in the city’s Born neighbourhood, helmed by ex-elBulli chef Rafa Zafra, is a hit for the superb quality of its catch-of-the day orientated menu, and almost all of the seafood served is Spanish, including sea urchins from Galicia and succulent red prawns landed in the Catalan port of Palamós. Neptune (neptune.london) is not only the name of the ancient Roman god of the sea, but London’s beautiful new modern seafood house at the modish Principal Hotel in Bloomsbury. Restaurateur Margaret Crow and chef Brett Redman’s menu roves the world for inspiration, as seen in dishes like trout tartare with spider crab, and scallop carpaccio and sansho pepper broth, and plaice with girolles, lardo, garlic and parsley. Across the Atlantic, the United States boasts three different coastlines (Atlantic, Pacific and Gulf of Mexico) and a deep love of seafood. Historic Charleston, South Carolina is known for its Low Country cooking, often featuring the fruits of the sea, and the latest address here for fans of fins and bivalves is The Establishment (establishmentchs.com), which specialises in local catches in dishes like boudin de mer – a seafood sausage – and snapper with brown butter, peas and salsa verde. A short hop to the south, the new eponymous destination of Moscowbased restaurateur Arkady Novikov (novikovmiami.com) sits on the edge of Biscayne Bay, Miami. Seafood stars on the menu at this high-glam Chinese- Japanese fusion eatery, which has branches in Dubai, London and Moscow. Start off with some caviar, sushi or sashimi and then sample dishes like king crab with honey and truffle, grilled black cod or salmon teriyaki. On the Pacific Coast, in Seattle, chef Edouardo Jordan’s soul food has been winning rave reviews at his critically acclaimed new restaurant JuneBaby (junebabyseattle.com). Start with the softshell blue crab with charred pineapple, beets, rocket and jalapeño or shrimp gumbo, and then tuck into some of his fried catfish with grits (similar to polenta), spinach, fiddlehead ferns and red sauce. PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: FRANCIS AMIAND, LIBBY VOLGYES, ANDREW CEBULKA 48 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM FOR HOT TABLES IN MUST-VISIT CITIES, GO TO: CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
