|Places| Scenes from the note-perfect estate and a portrait of Valentina De Santis perched above her parents, Antonella and Paolo F or decades, Lake Como has thrived on that most tenuous of tightropes: a luxury brand that is both aristocratically aspirational and wildly popular. It is the Louis Vuitton of destinations. Implausible. Charming. And always crowded. Which is to say: every day spent on these steep, tree-lined banks is infused with glamour, some just more so than others. At even the most basic hostelries, you’re still at Como, free to enjoy the spectacular views and dine in any of the numerous family-run enotecas and the six nearby Michelin-star restaurants. The best hotels are tremendous repositories of sophistication whose decor and indulgences compete on a global scale. And, at the very top, the one thing in this rarefied sanctuary that is prized above all else is, of course, not a thing at all but rather an experience: it is that prototypical dolce vita atmosphere, equal parts louche and loving, that can only arise at a wonderfully decadent, multiday house party. Invitations to such gatherings, and the villas where they are hosted, are not easy to come by, but the just-opened Passalacqua delivers a remarkable approximation – and brings something entirely new to Como. The 24-key resort was dreamed up by Valentina De Santis and her parents, Paolo and Antonella, who already own one of the lake’s premier properties, Grand Hotel Tremezzo. They bought the Passalacqua estate at auction in 2018 from American investment banker Jim Cantwell – who extensively restored the 18th-century villa and grounds during his nearly two decades there – which meant the hotel team, lead by Valentina, could spend their renovation budget (some €20 million) on crafting every detail of their paradise exactly as they imagined it. She certainly has had practice: under Valentina’s stewardship over the past decade, the Grand Hotel has become even grander, adding something new each season: an entire floor dedicated to eight rooftop suites in 2012; the three-storey standalone T Spa in 2016; and, among other features, the beach club and super-chic waterside restaurant that boast some of the best views on the lake. At Passalacqua, the new refinements have the compelling glow of not just careful attention but actual love: each bespoke Murano glass chandelier complements the room in which it hangs; the lace curtains bear wistful images of numerous Como landmarks; the boxes that hold the retractable TVs are the pride of a local craftsman. All the above were specially commissioned by Valentina, and the list of such bespoke pieces goes on and on – and they are, even more impressively, often in conversation with the remarkable history of the property. So, for example, the Bellini suite, where its namesake composer wrote two of his bestknown operas, Norma and La Sonnambula, boasts a beautiful piano in its jaw-dropping music room. “Every corner of the property has been dreamed and created from the heart,” explains Valentina, who finds the task of picking her favourite detail impossible. “I keep on falling in love with each different spot at Passalacqua,” she continues. “They are all so unique and special.” It sounds clichéd, a description that most hoteliers would give their property, and yet here, it rings utterly true: not only do rooms bear names rather than numbers, but no two suites are similar, let alone identical. Some have balconies, others have gardens, and others still have grand, double-height 12 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM PLEASE CHECK THE LATEST GOVERNMENT ADVICE BEFORE BOOKING TRAVEL OR DEPARTING ON ANY TRIP
sitting rooms with ceiling frescoes. This causes some trouble for the reservations team (how does one book multiple couples seeking comparable rooms?) but it is instrumental in furthering the singular vibe at the family-run escape. It is, in the end, these personal touches that make the difference. The careful attention to each guest’s preferences. The unsurpassed matrix of connection and recommendations across the area. The weekly, free, open-to-all sessions with the pastry chef, the sommelier and the gelato-maker – which draw guests, in part, because they feel cosseted in this sanctuary that is, unlike other hotels on the lake, impenetrable to non-guests. The kitchen here, like many a private home, is the heart of the property, an open-plan destination where guests are welcome to come any time, day or night, should a snack or a chat appeal. Chef Mauro also hosts a weekly masterclass where he shares both signature dishes and off-the-cuff tips. You can dine anywhere on the property at any time – both on- and off-menu – and the staff will occasionally bring unexpected tea and sweets just in case you’re feeling peckish. When the weather allows, the best place to enjoy the culinary delights is the gardens, which are the true pride of Passalacqua. Eight terraces totalling nearly 20,000 square metres tumble down to the water and offer places both to mingle and isolate, including everything from a fitness studio amid olive groves to a vegetable garden that supplies the kitchen with many of its ingredients. (There is also a tunnel system underneath the gardens, cut long ago, which may in time become part of an extended spa.) Whereas at Tremezzo or Villa d’Este, which is a five-minute drive from Passalacqua, you feel like you are in one of the grandest spaces on the lake, here you find yourself in a very select private club. It is remarkably close to the prized house-party feeling – but, of course, the other guests are strangers, at least when you arrive. Which is where the open-hearted and familiar approach of the De Santis family proves vital. Effervescent and contagious, it extends across the property to, for instance, Giulio, the general manager, who is a good friend of Valentina and has such a deep connection with the family and place that he was married at Tremezzo. Or take Fabio, the gardener and maintenance man whose parents spent decades doing the same at the property and who now continues the family tradition, ensuring that the grounds flourish uninterruptedly and the mature trees (many of which are 18th- and 19th-century varietals) produce the same tiny quantities of olive oil, jam and marmalade that they have for years. In a travel landscape of riotous, unremitting change, continuity and family feeling can be a luxurious escape all its own. passalacqua.it The blue dining room features a chandelier by Florentine firm Il Bronzetto CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM 13
