Shrimp a la Plancha with fresh fruits and veggies at Siago Beach Resort; left: Inara hotel’s rustic-chic lobby; right: Jenn Fernandez and Daniel Alfaro of Golden Monstera “No matter what you are, no matter how much money you make, we have the same lifestyle,” explains Chris Alfaro. “We all have the same values. We all have the same love for this place. We hang out with locals, we hang out with billionaires, we’re all the same. It’s a really tight community. There are so few places in the world where people live without ego.” What is so special about this place that allows everyone to connect on a truly human level? To see each other for who they are rather than what they are? The answer is omnipresent: it’s this unmistakable force from the surrounding seas, the irresistible push and pull of the tides, luring everyone to ride the same wave. “I’ve never been so connected to nature,” says Perez-Rubio, a former resident of Los Angeles. “We have to watch the moon and the tides and we regulate our life around the surf.” On the one hand, not only does the entire island operate on the same clock, but out on the breaks, there is no room for selfishness or bravado. “Out here, we just laugh,” says Siargao native and multi-champion longboarder Ikit Agudo. I joined her in Matanjak for my first-ever surf lesson; how could I say no to the reigning queen of Siargao surfing? It was unusually crowded for an early morning but the mood was light. Lying on my board, waiting for a suitable wave – meaning a small one – I happily bobbed in the water, observing the familial interactions among the surfers. Agudo sits up with ease and confidence, calling out to everyone. “Straighten up! It’ll help your balance.” “You take that wave, the next one is mine.” “Go tatay!” she shouts, cheering on her senior father as he expertly glides past with a playful smile. Cheeky gossip, friendly advice and encouraging woohoos! fill the air. This is their town square. This is where the magic happens. Agudo surfs twice a day, not counting the lessons she gives. It’s the core of her life. Hang out and hang ten. “I see everyone in the morning, then, when the tide quiets down, we go back to shore and just wait for it to swell again,” she says with a smile. “We all just live for it. There’s a freedom when you ride the wave. You’re not thinking of anything except trying not to wipe out. You have to tune into the wave and go with the flow. You feel its energy.” On 16 December 2021, nature’s energy was far more menacing, as Super Typhoon Rai, locally named Odette, pummelled the island with Category 5 winds, destroying virtually everything in its wake. Siargao was just slowly reopening up after the pandemic, and the businesses that managed to survive had poured significant investments into hopeful preparation for an influx of tourists. Odette put a brutal stop to the momentum and ravaged the island, once again devastating the local economy. Fortunately, the typhoon hit midday and the immediate death toll was low but the aftermath was 68 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
almost apocalyptic. “We had no power, no cell service, no water, for months,” recounts Jenn Fernandez. “We were told to buy a machete because of looters, everyone was in pure survival mode.” However, much like the tides, the mood quickly shifted. “We saw people who could have left stay back to help rebuild,” remembers Perez-Rubio. “Using everyone’s strengths and connections, we all collaborated to raise funds and distribute relief goods.” Barbosa organised fundraising events in Manila, while Golden Monstera sold over 2,000 sets of its iconic brass bracelets and donated over PHP1 million (US,000) to help 62 families. Other efforts were more grassroots but equally life-changing. With clean water being a rare commodity post-disaster, Heidi Ganaden offered free showers to anyone who needed them in their small guesthouse, Lubihan Resort. “We had the choice to return to Manila but we stayed. We wanted to help get Siargao back on its feet.” Much like the waves, a typhoon makes no distinction of status. Even luxury properties like Nay Palad Hideaway were not spared. Sitting on its giant iconic daybed watching the golden colours of sunset permeate the sky today, it’s hard to imagine that this Champion longboarder Ikit Agudo rides the waves at Cloud 9, the island’s world-famous surf spot CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM 69
