Style & Beauty
Style & Beauty Adventures in Time “It differs from a world-time model on which the time is generally simultaneously displayed for the various time zones,” says Philipe Delhotal, creative director of Hermès Horloger. “With Arceau Le temps voyageur, it is the satellite that travels from city to city, changing the face of the watch as it does so. It takes us on a journey of discovery around the world.” Montblanc’s titanium 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE290 is equipped to venture to some of the planet’s most extreme environments – including the summit of Mount Everest. Limited to 290 pieces, this special edition is constructed with zero oxygen inside the movement to prevent oxidation and fogging due to drastic temperature changes at high altitudes. The movement combines a chronograph with a world-time function using two turning domes representing the Northern and Southern hemispheres. IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Top Gun Ceratanium is another rugged world timer built for adventure in a proprietary alloy of titanium and ceramic. Clockwise from above: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948, jaeger-lecoultre.com; Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5777, breguet.com; Hermès Arceau Le temps voyageur, hermes.com Meanwhile, Chopard’s L.U.C Time Traveler One Black combines lightweight, durable ceramised grade 5 titanium with a sleek, modern monochromatic grey/black aesthetic for sophisticated high-fliers. But classicism still rules at Bovet with the new Orbis Mundi, offering a fresh perspective on the world-time function displaying time in 24 cities radiating from a top-of-the-globe viewpoint for easy reading and setting using only the crown. For most of us, a two-time-zone approach like a GMT is more practical and straightforward. This year, Rolex flipped the script on its classic Oyster Perpetual GMT- Master II by moving the crown and crown guard to the left side of the case and the date › aperture with Cyclops lens to the 9 o’clock position. The bicolour monobloc Cerachrom bezel insert in green and black ceramic is a first for the popular model. Rolex’s sister brand Tudor gave its Black Bay GMT a trendy makeover in two-tone 30 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
“We wanted to bring simplicity and innovation with that very sought-after function” – Parmigiani CEO Guido Terreni PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE WATCHMAKERS steel and gold with the Black Bay GMT S&G. The 24-hour graduated bidirectional rotating bezel and 24-hour hand lets you track a third time zone. Celebrating the 15th anniversary of its Spring Drive Chronograph, Grand Seiko launched the limited-edition titanium SBGC249 in the Evolution 9 Collection. The specially adjusted movement delivers heightened accuracy of ±10 seconds per month, plus a GMT hand and powerreserve indicator. Parmigiani added a new dimension to the GMT with the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, indicating home time and local time in a novel way that emphasises user-friendliness. “We wanted to bring simplicity and innovation with that very sought-after function,” says CEO Guido Terreni. “A simple push on the button at 8 o’clock allows the local time hand to jump by one hour, while the gold pusher integrated to the crown facilitates a quick return of this hand to home – easy, quick and ergonomic thanks to the patented complex mechanism we developed”. Bulgari marked the 10th anniversary of its flagship Octo collection with the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic 10th Anniversary in titanium with a unique dial that reproduces the first pencil sketches of the collection drawn by Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, product creation executive director. With the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT, Audemars Piguet took the GMT into audacious territory in sandblasted titanium and ceramic with a choice of blue or black versions. The second time zone is apparent on a sapphire plate at 3 o’clock while the tourbillon is at 9 o’clock. In a technical flourish that earned eight patents, Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time combines its annual calendar and travel-time complications for the first time. The piece also brings modern edge to the classic Calatrava design by moving the hallmark Clous de Paris hobnail guillochéd pattern to the sides of the 41mm white-gold case and a vintage-style anthracite dial with a grainy texture evoking an old-fashioned camera case. Breguet’s sporty new Marine Hora Mundi 5777 boasts four patents and an instant-change dual-time display with memory function that allows you to easily change from home town and local time with a simple press on the pusher. The artisans at Jaeger-LeCoultre went Clockwise from top left: Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Black, chopard.com; Patek Philippe Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time, patek.com all out, fusing technical expertise and decorative métiers d’art in creating the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948, which puts a creative spin on the worldtime concept with a flying tourbillon that completes a revolution around the dial in 24 hours. The domed dial depicts a world map as viewed from the North Pole, with the continents and oceans rendered in colourful enamel. It is the first time that a world-time complication has ever been united with a flying tourbillon, says Catherine Renier, CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre. “Inspired by the rotation of Earth on itself, our watchmakers have created the Universal Tourbillon, which turns on itself in the length of a minute and around the watch in 24 hours, thereby indicating the 24 hours in the 24 time-zones,” she explains. “This is a complication we have called universal time, hence the name universal tourbillon.” ¬ CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM 31
