|Objects| “Being a
|Objects| “Being a collector is different from being a champagne lover, as you are rarely just buying a bottle to drink; instead, you are buying a case to enjoy its evolution over time” just buying a bottle to drink; instead, you are buying a case to enjoy its evolution over time.” Crawford agrees that a great prestige cuvée [he references Laurent Perrier Grand Siècle] “can be enjoyed in its youth – as a beautiful expression of purity and freshness, but develops over a decade or more, becoming buttery and rich”. He goes on to commend a particular favourite, Charles Heidsieck Blanc de Millenaire 1995, as another wine for the ages. Wong, also a fan of Grand Siècle – “definitely one to watch, a unique project, best vineyards, best vintages”– recommends a practical policy of buying two cases of champagne when offered, enjoying some bottles early but laying down the rest in the cellar because “like Sleeping Beauty, they wake up more mature, enhanced, with greater depth and character”. This evolution is not limited to the most soughtafter cuvées, as even non-vintage champagnes benefit from extra ageing in the bottle, becoming noticeably more complex and interesting after just three years. “NV Pol Roger, Veuve Clicquot and Moët & Chandon are great after ten years,” says Crawford, “and, of course, [multi-vintage] Krug Grand Cuvée”. Avellan adds a note of caution to would-be collectors, saying, “Not all champagne ages well. Many grower champagnes [wines from smaller, more boutique houses] that are bone dry with no or low added sulphites are rather fragile and may not improve over a lengthy time in the cellar.” However, she highlights growers Ulysse Collin and Vilmart & Cie as small producers of notably cellarworthy cuvées. Gibb notes increased market activity around other growers including Agrapart, Jérôme Prévost and Larmandier-Bernier, while Crawford adds Frédéric Savart, Emmanuel Brochet and Pierre Péters to the list of notables. He points to the profound influence of Jacques Selosse, who he credits as a pioneer of the grower movement and as someone “who set himself apart and was able to communicate something different”. Today, Selosse’s wines are among the region’s most indemand and expensive. Meanwhile, Crawford points to grower Dhondt-Grellet as one to watch. Returning to exciting advances among the Grandes Marques, Avellan says, “Louis Roederer has been on the top of its game for a long time, with further evolution in the pipeline”. She continues: “Rare champagne is quickly entering the top collector’s league now, and Bollinger is showing a great dynamism with new, exciting blanc de noirs [100% pinot noir] cuvées.” These three maisons, along with Dom Pérignon and Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, comprise the top five current performers for Liv-ex. There is plenty more useful and varied advice – and a few warnings for those looking to begin a collection or take theirs to the next level. Crawford advises against obsessing over heralded years like 1988, 1996, 2002 and 2008, and instead recommends discovering lesser-known vintages, From left: Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle N°26, laurent-perrier.com Salon Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs, 2013, champagne-salon.fr Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Extra-Brut, 2001, philipponnat.com Dom Pérignon Plénitude 2, 2004, domperignon.com Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, 2013, taittinger.com PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE CHAMPAGNE HOUSES 44 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
ecalling superb bottles of Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2001 and Cristal 1974 and 1994 as “uninspiring years but wonderful wines”. Avellan warns that champagne is very sensitive and can easily spoil if stored poorly, so advises caution when buying older bottles especially. She points to a number of producers who offer “longer lees-aged or late-release champagnes straight from the winery, which guarantees top condition”, but these, she continues, “of course come with a price tag”. Wines to look out for in this rarefied category include Bollinger R.D., Dom Pérignon P2, Cristal Vinothèque and Krug Collection. However, Wong adds a helpful rejoinder to those considering four-figure single-bottle purchases, suggesting that “unless you want to bring the label to the table, as a consumer-collector, you’ll get as much satisfaction buying six bottles as one for the same price”. Splashing out on larger formats, however, comes universally recommended: “Size matters. Magnum and jeroboam sizes are ideal when it comes to ageing as well as value creation,” says Avellan, and Crawford observes that getting access to these rare large bottles can be one of the benefits of getting to know and continually supporting your favourite maisons. Champagne has recently announced 2023 as its largest harvest on record and, although we won’t see the fruit of this vintage’s labours for at least three years, it coincides with similar growth in collector interest. Now, with the market stabilising, it is a great time to start or expand your champagne collection, concentrating on securing wines on release, including large formats, from well-established and emerging producers. The focus should be on ensuring there are plenty of bottles in your cellar to steadily improve, both in price and complexity, whether you are buying as an investment or to enjoy, as Wong prefers, “fluid conviviality” with fellow “bubbleheads”. Recommended Releases Four experts offer sparkling inspiration for your next bottle Essi Avellan MW “Two superbly elegant 2013s are arriving on the markets now: Rare Champagne 2013 and Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2013.” Peter Crawford “The latest iteration of Laurent Perrier Grand Siècle – N°26, which is an exciting blend of the 2012, 2008 and 2007 vintages. Meanwhile, I’m eagerly anticipating the launch of Krug Clos du Mesnil 2008, and also Moët & Chandon’s new, multi-vintage cuvée.” [Latterly revealed as Collection Impériale Création No. 1]. Queena Wong “I’ve been really enjoying Billecart- Salmon recently – Elisabeth Salmon Rosé 2008 is delicious but the 2009 is really good now. 1996 is showing really well and 2002 is simply stunning. In my experience, great rosé champagnes can age well. Cristal Rosé 2008 and 2013 are both superb. Salon 2013 shows the joyfulness of the vintage, it’s very playful, with a lovely mouthfeel.” Justin Gibb “Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2006 – it has some good bottle age, and diminished supply and the price is very attractive. Plus, it’s a delicious champagne!” From left: Louis Roederer Cristal Vintage, louis-roederer.com Billecart-Salmon Elisabeth Salmon Rosé, 2002, champagne-billecart.fr Bollinger PN AYC 18 Blanc de Noirs Brut, champagne-bollinger.com Krug Clos du Mesnil Brut Blanc de Blancs, 2008, krug.com Moët & Chandon Impériale Collection Création No 1 Brut Nature, moet.com CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM 45
