|Objects| I discover and decide upon the stone first and let it speak to me. The background story then unfolds around the shimmering gem as a source of inspiration. – Ingo Henn This passion for gemstones runs deep in the Henn family DNA. With four generations of history in the trade, their eponymous company has built a reputation as a merchant of superlative gemstones as well as creator of exquisitely carved objets d’art and bespoke fine jewellery alike. Founder and creative director Hans-Jürgen is a world-renowned gem dealer or more aptly put, a gem-hunter: his adventurous spirit has led him to the most remote corners and highest peaks of the world in search of the finest and rarest gemstones. From Tanzanian Mahenge spinels to Padparadscha sapphires, Russian demantoids and Taaffeites, he has literally left no stone unturned in his long career. Known among the experts for being the first to coin the expression “Kashmir Peridot” and for the acquisition of the legendary Dom Pedro aquamarine – now part of the Smithsonian Institution’s mineral and gem collection in Washington, DC – Hans-Jürgen has passed down his knowledge and talent to his sons Axel and Ingo. While Axel, a certified gemologist and gemstone cutter, is based in Idar- Oberstein with his father and oversees the gem-trading operations and the corporate side of the business, Ingo is responsible for designing and crafting the jewellery line Henn of London from his workshop based in the British capital’s famed jewellery quarter Hatton Garden. A self-confessed anglophile with a talent for drawing, the jeweller, gemologist and master goldsmith cut his teeth at his family’s company before moving to London in the mid-1990s. “To me, London’s art and culture scene is one of PHOTOS JÜRRGEN CULLMANN/LICHTBLICK FOTODESIGN (2), SIMON MARTNER (PORTRAIT) 46 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
PHOTO JÜRRGEN CULLMANN/LICHTBLICK FOTODESIGN the best in the world,” explains Ingo, who, not long after his relocation, designed and crafted his first jewellery collection for the family brand. Since then, Ingo’s workshop has become the go-to address for a discerning, global clientele in search of one-of-a-kind pieces that combine artistic style with the finest craftsmanship. At the centre of each design are the exceptional and rare-coloured gemstones sourced by the family and cut in-house following the elder Henn’s mantra: “That which is rendered great by nature should not be diminished by man.” Around them revolves a creative process that gives life to Ingo’s masterfully executed pieces. “Most jewellery designers start with an idea and then search for a suitable stone. I work the other way around; I discover and decide upon the stone first and let it speak to me. The background story then unfolds around the shimmering gem as a source of inspiration.” What makes Henn of London’s jewellery even more unique and distinctive is the use of carved gemstones. “The jewellery industry is very competitive and it is important to be different and to stand out, in my opinion. Very few jewellers work with carved gemstones,” explains the jeweller. “About nine years ago, my dad showed me a very beautiful and exceptionally well-carved piece of aquamarine. I immediately had the idea to use it as a centrepiece for a 1930s-inspired necklace [named “Daphne and Apollo”]. The finished piece looked magnificent and was sold right away.” Crafted by the company’s best artisans in Idar-Oberstein, carved gemstones have been an integral part of Henn of London’s jewellery ever since, paying homage to an ancient art form – one which reaches its peak in the company’s spectacular objets d’art. Mostly nature-inspired, these mesmerising, soulful sculptures are so rich in detail that it’s almost hard to believe they are manmade. Take a piece like the Morganite Falcon Chick: sculpted from an impressive Brazilian morganite by master carver Alfred Zimmermann, it depicts a bird peacefully A falcon chick carved from Brazilian morganite, with a nest of 18k gold and diamonds Opposite, clockwise from top left: a Baroque bowl shaped from an 7,000ct ruby; rubellite and tanzanite rings, set in white gold; Ingo Henn in his Hatton Garden workshop nestling in a gold and diamond eyrie. Or the Aquamarine Polar Bear Cubs, which features a pair of young polar bears playing together in an icy aquamarine landscape. Each scene is made to come alive by accurately rendered textures and movements that require more than a pair of steady hands and a set of diamondsintered tools to be achieved. “The best carvers have a natural talent for form and design. They are able to give life and personality to some of their most figurative creations,” explains Ingo. “From the very first idea to the finished piece of objet d’art, it usually takes half to one year, possibly longer. This is also due to the fact that gemstone carvers cannot continuously work on a piece. Some pieces are just too heavy to be held for long periods and the carving of costly and fragile material can also be very demanding mentally and physically.” Whether they find themselves in a museum, a royal palace or a private collector’s villa, these beautiful objects will forever carry the history of the little German town on the Nahe with them. hennoflondon.co.uk CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM 47
