Places 42 museum (mehrangarh.org) therein contains a trove of well-documented items that span centuries of tangible cultural legacy. Textiles, such as remains of Mughalera tents, royal garments and furnishings dating back to the late 17th century. There are over 3,000 Marwar miniatures, including one that depicts ladies of the royal household playing polo. Visitors can also admire numerous decorative objects, like intricately carved ivory chests and jhoolas, or swings made from translucent soapstone. On a smaller scale, but still a heritage jewel, the 16th-century Samode Palace (samode.com), 45 kilometres from Jaipur, makes for a worthy addition to any cultural itinerary in Rajasthan – even if for nothing else but its Indo-Saracenic architecture, and for the intricate frescoes and complex gold and mirror work seen in its royal chambers. That being said, Rajasthan’s key festivals such as Holi and Diwali are celebrated with vigour by the descendants of Samode’s erstwhile ruling family. As a guest at one of their three hotels in the Jaipur region, you will have a ringside view of the celebrations, which includes much singing and dancing. Those interested in the intricacies of folk music should visit Jaipur’s RRAP Music Museum (jaipurvirasatfoundation.org). There you will find audio-visual exhibits featuring rare recordings and musical instruments unique to this region. The Oberoi Udaivilas (oberoihotels.com), by the shore of Lake Pichola in Udaipur, southern Rajasthan, offers a contemporary DIY take on regal living. Built The atmospheric dining room The Johri at Lal Haveli in Jaipur on the hunting grounds of the former maharanas (kings) of Udaipur, it exemplifies Rajput aesthetics and artisanship but with all the trappings of modern living. You could easily act out your royal fantasies as you stroll about the abundant gardens, past posturing peacocks and the many water features that stud the grounds. But to get the cultural context right, one will have to walk through the bustling lanes of the city. Book a heritage tour through your hotel or through Virasat Experiences (virasatexperiences.com), which leads thematic walks not just in Udaipur, but also in cities such as Jodhpur and Bikaner. In Jaipur, sign up for tours with Heritage Water Walks (heritagewaterwalks.com). Founder Neeraj Doshi uses the socio-cultural significance of water to explain how life played out inside forts such as Amer. Using original maps and digital media, he walks you through parts not open to the average tourist and explains how water was moved uphill and how kings kept cool through the scorching summers. FOODIE’S CHOICE Even before you’ve eaten a single morsel at The Johri at Lal Haveli in Jaipur (thejohrijaipur.com), one look around the five-suite property and you’ll know that the hotel has been shaped by a sophisticated palate. Start with a round (or three) of cocktails at the hotel’s gin-focused bar, the Pukhraj Lounge. Pukhraj is the Hindi word for yellow sapphire, and is a nod to the hotel’s location in Johri Bazaar, the jewellers’ market. When you make it to your table at the hotel’s awardwinning restaurant, you’ll find a robust India-inspired vegetarian menu cooked using organic produce sourced from farms around Jaipur. From elevated versions of street food to edamame kebabs and the chef’s own version of a biryani featuring jackfruit and water chestnut – there’s much to be sampled. Jaipur’s most famous F&B venue is Bar Palladio (bar-palladio.com), an all-blue venue that often hosts Jaipur’s titular king Padmanabh Singh, among other noteworthies. Later this year, there is expected to be competition emerging from the much-anticipated launch of the 50-key, whiteand-gold Raffles Jaipur, whose watering holes will include a Writers Bar, which will serve a Jaipur version of the Sling, and an unnamed rooftop bar with an infinity pool. For a more rustic repast, head to Mihir Garh, a Relais & Châteaux property (houseofrohet.com) some 40 kilometres from Jodhpur. The nine-suite hotel was purpose-built in the form of a fortified structure, surrounded by the Thar desert. Given the arid nature of western Rajasthan, fresh vegetables aren’t always available, so local recipes have included preserved and foraged ingredients, such as kachri, a wild melon that is used both as a flavouring agent and to tenderise meat. Owner Siddharth Singh, a descendant of the rulers PHOTO TEAL THOMSEN CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
