COME ONE, COME ALL As more and more major watch fairs are being opened to the public, these time-honoured events – once reserved for industry insiders, journalists and major buyers – are becoming must-visit destinations for both the watchcurious and the watch-obsessed. By Ming Liu Watch aficionados who are convinced that horology is the preserve of an elite band of experts and collectors should probably stop reading here. Watch fairs – from the annual Swiss industry event Watches and Wonders to local gatherings in Mexico and New York – are opening their doors to Joe Public. And watch fans can’t get enough. Watch fairs have historically been industry-specific B2B events – annual expos where hundreds of brands present their upcoming novelties to the media and retailers, the latter of whom take orders for the year ahead. For more than a century, Switzerland’s Baselworld was the predominant industry powwow before its final edition in 2019 (Watches and Wonders in Geneva now has taken the baton). Baselworld was, in fact, open to the public, but being a trade show at its heart meant that only the most die-hard watch nerds went. “Watch fairs were an event for wholesalers, retailers and the media – and a few lucky collectors sneaking in and trying not to get in the way,” recalls collector Gary Getz, who has attended watch fairs for over 15 years. That’s all set to change. After incorporating a public half-day in 2019, Watches and Wonders will open to the public for three days this April, up from two last year when all 12,000 available tickets sold out. Elsewhere, more consumer-led fairs around the globe are seeing record attendance, such as Dubai Watch Week (DWW), Singapore Watch Week, Mexico’s Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR), New York’s WatchTime and Geneva Watch Days. Patrick Pruniaux – chief executive officer and cofounder of Sowind Group, which owns the watchmakers Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux – is co-founder of Geneva Watch Days and part of the Watches and Wonders’ organising committee. “I’m a big advocator of sharing the passion, whether [with] clients or not, whether they’re buying luxury watches now or later,” he says. Many watch executives like Pruniaux would be delighted to see watch fairs become a cultural destination or addition to the social diary, not unlike Art Basel or Art Basel Miami Beach. Indeed, many watch collectors attending WatchTime and DWW are making it their “watch holiday” – bookending the fair with reservations at beach clubs and Michelin-star restaurants with other collectors, often attending the fair with spouses and children (“I’ve seen grandfathers in their 80s with grandkids in their 30s,” says Sara Orlando, publisher of WatchTime magazine, which organises the eponymous fair). “Even if it’s social, it becomes educational,” says Pruniaux. “There is nothing better than face-to-face.” A post-pandemic craving for live events, coupled with growing exposure on social media, have transformed watch collecting from a niche hobby into a mainstream passion, says Orlando. WatchTime has grown from more than 700 attendees and 20 brands in 2015 to over 2,000 attendees and 36 brands in 2023. 80
I’m a big advocator of sharing the passion, whether with clients or not, whether they’re buying luxury watches now or later — Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Sowind Group Held annually in October in Manhattan’s Gotham Hall, last year’s event kicked off with an intimate gala evening on Friday night attended by 460 guests, with visitors at the weekend treated to complimentary wine and whisky tastings, educational panels and even some celeb-spotting courtesy of the award-winning actor Aldis Hodge and businessman, television personality and collector Kevin O’Leary. WatchTime has long attracted aficionados, many of whom come for independent brands like MB&F, Greubel Forsey and Armin Strom – whose watches are rarely seen in the wild. But the fair welcomes entrylevel brands, too, like G-Shock and Norqain. “The formula really works in terms of attracting high-calibre collectors – for example, those with over 25 watches and collections in the millions of dollars,” says Orlando. “But it’s also for collectors who are new to watches and may be intimidated by going into a watch boutique on Fifth Avenue, but who want to learn more.” Making watchmaking less intimidating is certainly the spirit behind Dubai Watch Week. In fact, many top watch executives are now naming the biennial event their favourite these days. A combination of being noncommercial (no watches are sold on site), fantastic November weather, a host of panels and masterclasses and special launches, gives the fair an exciting but relaxed buzz – the kind of place where you can spot François- Henry Bennahmias, Audemars Piguet’s legendary former CEO, sitting on the steps enjoying ice cream. “Just getting to talk to people and shake hands, share a smile and some time is really what it’s all about,” says the Florida-based watch dealer Eric Wind of DWW. “It’s a relaxing ‘retreat’ atmosphere. Everyone is really chill. Being away from home also really helps.” DWW is where brands can notably meet customers directly, says Hind Seddiqi, director general of the fair. “They listen to their clients – what they want, like and don’t like. It helps them develop better products and things they never thought of,” she says. DWW has had impressive, enviable growth – from 14 participating brands and 2,500 visitors in 2015 to nearly 70 brands and over 23,000 visitors at its latest edition. But in the early days, “it was extremely difficult to convince brands and journalists,” recalls Seddiqi. “They asked, ‘Why do I have to come to the desert to talk about watches? Who are you?’ It was challenging.” But Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, which represents more than 80 watch and jewellery brands in more than 50 boutiques in the UAE, knew it had a winning formula on their hands. “We used to take our clients to Geneva and visit manufacturers – they always came back transformed,” recalls Seddiqi. “Watchmaking is seen as a gated industry – that only if you know about it can you be part of it. We wanted to humanise it.” And the next generation of watch fans are more enthusiastic than ever. “My 14-year-old niece is following all the action on the fair’s livestream,” said one DWW visitor. “She said I better bring her in two years.” Also attracting a younger crowd is the Salón Internacional Alta Relojería, which is now in its 18th edition and has been called Mexico’s biggest luxury event of the year. SIAR founder Carlos Alonso says that pre-pandemic, the majority of attendees were over 39; today, they’re in their late 20s and early 30s. “They’re coming with their friends and see watches as something trendy and cool,” he says. SIAR is held annually in October but four years ago, Alonso launched – by popular demand – a complementary pop-up fair in June. “It’s more fun, with more independent brands. Think mixology parties, evenings etc. It’s the total independent spirit,” he says. 81
