Departures Australia Autumn/Winter 2022

DEPARTURES TRAVEL THE

DEPARTURES TRAVEL THE HANDBOOK 28 MALTA IS MORE nowhere than somewhere, a tiny archipelago perched between Italy and Africa which frequently doubles for that most Hollywood of places, the “Mediterranean” – whether it’s the ancient world in Gladiator (2000), the interwar era in Murder on the Orient Express (2017) or the hard-edged 1970s in Munich (2005), where it plays not only Tel Aviv and Beirut, but Rome and Athens as well. This effortless versatility comes by way of conquest: just about every nearby coastal culture – European, Levantine and North African – has invaded, leaving their marks in myriad ways. The language, for instance, is a form of Sicilian Arabic that is otherwise extinct; the Unescoenshrined ramparts that so magnificently guard the harbours of the capital city, Valletta, were built mostly by the Spanish; Napoleon ended feudalism and introduced free education, among other civil advancements; and the state religion, Catholicism, had its earliest tremors in the first century, not long after the Romans had taken over from the Greeks, when St Paul found himself shipwrecked on the shores for nearly two months. The only visitors who stay for months at a time now are those working on films – and they come as much for the tax breaks as for the scenery. Which is the story for much of modern Malta: the country is a hive of financial incentives, both low- and high-end. There are new cheap rates for registering your private aircraft or superyacht on the island, while there is also a new budget airline and a plethora of places serving bottom-of-the-barrel drinks (one sign in the St Julian’s district promises “72 shots for €24.90”). In addition, there is historic Malta and art-loving Malta, cruise-ship-friendly Malta and Golden Passport Malta (a scheme which may or may not still be running, depending on whom you ask) and, essential at the moment, there is Instagram-ready Malta, from the bustling, beautiful streets of the old town to the idyllic Blue Lagoon that borders the almost uninhabited islet of Comino. This brazen strategy – to attract not just a few types of visitors, but visitors of all kinds – has hurt the country’s reputation with less adventurous travellers. It shouldn’t. Malta is one of the last truly beguiling destinations left Left: the ruins of the Mnajdra Central Temple, a Unescolisted site; above: the terrace at Ion, overlooking the harbour FROM TOP: © INIALA HARBOUR HOUSE, LOOKPHOTOS / AGE FOTOSTOCK PLEASE CHECK THE LATEST GOVERNMENT ADVICE BEFORE BOOKING TRAVEL OR DEPARTING ON ANY TRIP

FROM TOP: S.FAUTRE / LE FIGARO MAGAZINE / LAIF, GERALD HAENEL / LAIF Right: an atmospheric alleyway in Valletta; below: the Renzo Pianodesigned parliament building in the Med: a place so full of political tumult and living history that, as long as you find your way off the tourist trail, you’re bound to stumble on delights and enigmas that have been long scrubbed out of more polished European destinations. Bedding Down Every visit to Malta should start at Iniala Harbour House (inialamalta.com), a jewel box of a hotel that would be a star in any European capital. Founder Mark Weingard started the Iniala Group with a hotel in Phuket in 2014, and this 23-key property has smartly decorated suites that tick all the right boxes and is slowly expanding, with a standalone townhouse and more, along its uniquely panoramic street. For a radically different view, move inland to The Xara Palace (xarapalace.com.mt), a family-run property in the medieval capital of Mdina, a stunning walled village that could be a living museum were it not for the several dozen residences and the delightful, 17-room Xara. Both Xara and Iniala boast Michelin-star restaurants – ION and De Mondion, respectively – and another, Bahia, has newly moved to the Corinthia Palace (corinthia.com) in the leafy suburb of Balzan, where the hotel is in the process of a tip-to-toe upgrade to match the other Corinthias across the globe. For a touch of 20th-century colonial Malta, The Phoenicia ( phoeniciamalta.com) has characterful rooms with great views of the capital, an unbeatable location near the Renzo Piano-designed Parliament and a host of restaurants and bars, including a new Beefbar outpost. Tucking In Given its central Mediterranean locale, Malta’s plethora of superb – and superbly healthy – restaurants is no surprise. Try both Noni (noni.com.mt) and Under the Grain (grain.mt), another two Michelin-starred standouts, for modern incarnations of Maltese classics. A decadent night out can be had at Gracy’s (gracysmalta.com), where the menus are embellished with the logo of the British club that once called the building home; the members’ rooms upstairs are not to be missed. For more casual – but no less sophisticated – fare, visit Kris and Krista, the couple who run Trabuxu (trabuxu.com.mt) bistro and wine bar. Go with the daily specials at the bistro and pick the weekends for live music at the bar. There are so many restaurant choices – and the island is so small, with barely more than 500,000 residents – that it’s worth taking personal recommendations seriously. Good hotel concierges will direct you, on the right day, to anywhere from super-traditional Da Pippo (fb.com/ dapippovalletta) to the modern stable of restaurants by Hammett’s (hammettsmacina.com) and the hipster coffee roaster Lot 61 (lotsixtyonecoffeemalta.com), which serves the best espressos in Valletta. In the countryside, seaside eateries serving the catch of the day paired with local (or Sicilian) wines are a slice of rustic perfection: the town of Marsaxlokk has a deservedly sterling reputation. Out and About The sea is the obvious place to start, and for true adventure, go underwater with the Pelorus submersible (pelorusx.com) to see an array of wrecks around the islands. Beyond the shores of the mainland, both Gozo and Comino are islets 29 DEPARTURES